Why drop the tank? Why not just lift the truck bed on left side about 1.5 feet giving you easy access to the gas tank? You loosen 4 bolts on right side of bed, take out the 4 bolts on left side of bed, take out screws holding filler tube to truck bed, then lift bed up about 1.5 feet and hold it in place with jack stand. You can leave the truck on the ground and you don't need a special jack to lower gas tank.
Last video man I so wish I had your equipment that's a handy little deal there for the tank this is my third fuel pump in this truck and my gas gauge still isn't working do you have any ideas and I changed my cluster too don't mean to bother you but great job of response would be great thanks brother
Always remove the negative cable on your battery when doing this job. He's using a brass punch because striking it will not cause a spark. Sparks and fuel vapors are hazardous to your health. I've seen this job done on many shows and they all use a punch to take off and put on that retainer ring. Ditch the punch and use large channel lock pliers. So much easier.
My fuel pump assembly didn't come with the fuel pump sensor. It has a spot for it, but having issues putting a sensor there due to the hole not punching through. Any advice?
What if the little connector that plugs in with the wires broke off from the fuel pump while trying to put it all back together but it’s still plugged into the wires coming from the truck and it still cranks and runs what problems could it cause or do I just need to get a new pump
My Fuel gauge is inoperable on my 2003 GMC Sierra 2500 HD so I was thrown by your mentioning a fuel pump since I've been told there isn't an in-the-tank fuel pump on these. If it's just the sensor that needs replacing it should be simpler. Can you confirm?
Great video! I have a 2002 Silverado 1500 LS extended cab with the 26 gallon fuel tank and right now the truck is at a shop having rotted rocker panels and cab corners replaced so he took the bed off which exposed rusted tank crossmembers, especially the front one. I. found a after-market replacement but I knew my fuel pump also needed replacing after a long time with the gas gauge reading inaccurately-it works but only over about 5/8 reading and higher. Because I am not there with the truck right now and waiting on parts because bodyman said I could do the pump and crossmember at his place while he works on rockers and cab corners, I wonder if you could tell me how many inches it is from the ground to the bottom of the tank so I know how high my jack needs to reach the tank with blocks and padding as necessary to take up any gap if my jack isn't high enough? I'll try calling your company to ask if I find a number to call, in case you don't see this message for a few days. I'm trying to make sure I have everything I need to make one trip over to do the work and not have to get aggravated constantly going back and forth for things I didn't realize I need. Thanks for any helpful info!
I forgot to say yes, I know I will change pump without removing tank because bed is off, but I have to hold up the front of the tank while I change its crossmember support which holds the front tank strap.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
Forgot to tell us were to cut the hole in the bed
Why drop the tank? Why not just lift the truck bed on left side about 1.5 feet giving you easy access to the gas tank? You loosen 4 bolts on right side of bed, take out the 4 bolts on left side of bed, take out screws holding filler tube to truck bed, then lift bed up about 1.5 feet and hold it in place with jack stand. You can leave the truck on the ground and you don't need a special jack to lower gas tank.
Can someone tell me why you have to replace the plug ?
Do you have a link for the jack you used to hold the tank
Last video man I so wish I had your equipment that's a handy little deal there for the tank this is my third fuel pump in this truck and my gas gauge still isn't working do you have any ideas and I changed my cluster too don't mean to bother you but great job of response would be great thanks brother
Always remove the negative cable on your battery when doing this job. He's using a brass punch because striking it will not cause a spark. Sparks and fuel vapors are hazardous to your health. I've seen this job done on many shows and they all use a punch to take off and put on that retainer ring. Ditch the punch and use large channel lock pliers. So much easier.
Great work! Maybe some pb blaster next time ?
Why are the wires being changed? Do they not make a pump with the correct connection as oem?
My fuel pump assembly didn't come with the fuel pump sensor. It has a spot for it, but having issues putting a sensor there due to the hole not punching through. Any advice?
Once again TRQ don't show or explain well the locking mechanism on the wire harness.
What if the little connector that plugs in with the wires broke off from the fuel pump while trying to put it all back together but it’s still plugged into the wires coming from the truck and it still cranks and runs what problems could it cause or do I just need to get a new pump
Which color wires goes with which color wire to the fuel pump
My Fuel gauge is inoperable on my 2003 GMC Sierra 2500 HD so I was thrown by your mentioning a fuel pump since I've been told there isn't an in-the-tank fuel pump on these. If it's just the sensor that needs replacing it should be simpler. Can you confirm?
What happens if I don't replace the old wiring harness with new one
Great video! I have a 2002 Silverado 1500 LS extended cab with the 26 gallon fuel tank and right now the truck is at a shop having rotted rocker panels and cab corners replaced so he took the bed off which exposed rusted tank crossmembers, especially the front one. I. found a after-market replacement but I knew my fuel pump also needed replacing after a long time with the gas gauge reading inaccurately-it works but only over about 5/8 reading and higher.
Because I am not there with the truck right now and waiting on parts because bodyman said I could do the pump and crossmember at his place while he works on rockers and cab corners, I wonder if you could tell me how many inches it is from the ground to the bottom of the tank so I know how high my jack needs to reach the tank with blocks and padding as necessary to take up any gap if my jack isn't high enough? I'll try calling your company to ask if I find a number to call, in case you don't see this message for a few days. I'm trying to make sure I have everything I need to make one trip over to do the work and not have to get aggravated constantly going back and forth for things I didn't realize I need.
Thanks for any helpful info!
I forgot to say yes, I know I will change pump without removing tank because bed is off, but I have to hold up the front of the tank while I change its crossmember support which holds the front tank strap.
So was this a gas or diesel truck? If it was gas, what might be different for a diesel truck?
That’s a genuine yankee truck …..
My connections are not the same I have 2 facing fwd and one 90° from the other 2