If you don't have any old rubber seals and don't have time to go out and buy some, and want to get the bearing reinstalled...you can reuse the old metal shield by turning it over an gentle taping bent section straight, perhaps with a small wooden dowel. I've also had good luck getting the seal off using a thin, dull knife blade. It doesn't damage the seal as much.
Probably depends on the bearings a lot. These shields would definitely risk snapping a knife blade, really were quite stubborn. If they come out less destructively, I could see them being salvageable. But I wouldn't use them in applications where it would cause any sort of failure or safety issues if the seal came off. Like if this was bearings inside a power tool or something. I wouldn't trust a re-crimped shield to stay on with 100% reliability.
@@LongboardTechnology I've done this successfully over the years with no problems. The ''crimping'' is just a form of press fitting for mass production. Since you're replacing the shield by hand, you're not under the time constraints of producing 100's a minute like a factory is.
Just opened uncared for longboard and saw these crimped thingies. So instead of adding them to a landfill, they're back in action. Score one for good guys like you.
Thank you so much for this video! I just found you after having a hell of a time trying to clean the Bont bearings that came with my derby skates. Sincerely appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
This is a great video! Dental syringes are super handy. My only advice would be maybe using less grease. I use light coatings of white lithium grease, applied with a dental pick! It takes longer to apply than your method. But use what you got. And if course, grease is slower than light oiling, but pick your poison. Again, very helpful and thanks!
You rock. I did what you said and the metal ring popped out. I have a 1974 Arctic Cat and I cannot get a bearing shipped to me in at least 2 weeks. When I opened up the bearing there is some grease in there but it's dirty and definitely needs new grease. I don't see any scoring on the inside of the bearings or the walls so I will reuse them thank you so much for your help!!!! I will fix up the bent metal bearing ring and then do the same for the second one. When I do the install I will face the two bearings which had the metal rings repaired towards each other and I think the seal will be good for service.
i was going nuts thinking i was having a hard time with ABEC-3's....i have every tool imaginable in my garage so that wasnt a problem...i damaged the first few cause i didnt realize they were crimped and not exactly serviceable for most people. thought these came with a small notch or a circlip
Thanks for the video! It is very useful! I got a shielded bearing on the suspension of my bike sized, so I'm gonna pop one side and grease it, while waiting for new bearings.
Thanks for the nice tutorial. Since you already have quite a few rubber shields at hand and I see you have a 3D printer - could you please measure one of those shields and make an STL model available through the Printables site?
The grease ball bearings that came with my sector nine longboard that I bought one year ago to this week. One of them is noisy and all the bearings have this crown crimped shield installed so that being said their Chinese sourced bearings, I might just eventually replace all of them because where I longboard, there’s lots of dust, and also sand by the beach. I’m always cleaning and wiping down my wheels and skateboard after every session. I might just get a better set of bearings since I know what I’m dealing with now.
I can get away with going overboard a bit for a few reasons, firstly I'm only putting the shield on the one side. Secondly this is for skate, so its a much more forgiving application. But yes, normally you'd want to not just use a random amount.
Smart idea. Exactly what I was wondering, I think I damaged one of mine or possibly came that way. Going to pull it off and leave it just like reds for now, then ill pull the rest later once it's time to clean them.
Thanks for this video, took me ages to find instructions for these bearings!!!! Suggest editing/adding a few more descriptive words to the video title to help others find this super useful video!!!
Because it largely doesn't have any effect as other factors come into play which limits your speed first, like air resistance. It matters a lot less when going fast, but it does begin to matter when doing low speed stuff like long distance push, dance, or flatland skate. Also, the grease I use doesn't have a very large effect on roll speed either compared to what other greases might do. I take a small, but negligible hit on my speed, but in exchange for much better protection against dust, dirt, water, and wear.
wich is quiter? A bearing with or without the side sheilds with lubricant added? asking cause im trying to make a scilent cooling fan. My Xbox One S fan is a lil to noisey for me xD
The bearings in cooling fans tend to use different style of bearings, often just plain bearings which wouldn't have shields at all. If its more loud than it should be, It most likely would be easiest to get a replacement fan, in PC's that's 100% the way to go all the time. IDK if the One S fan is so easy to get a hold of though. On my one S, I did try putting some grease in the fan bearing, but it really didn't really do much.
@@LongboardTechnology well lucky me i think i found out a better way then removing the side sheilds. long story short i realized my cooling fan had two sets of worn out bearings in it. i havested some fresh ones from other PC fans i had laying around and now the noise is back down to a near quite hum. also replaced the metal retention gascit with a plastic one. but hey thanks for ur thaughts
You should probably use acetone or alcohol to clean. Just make sure they are totally dry if you're using wd-40 to clean. Since it's water based can rust your bearings longtime
Wd40 you mean? That works fine for cleaning, but probably more expensive than other alternatives which will be just as effective. WD40 also has some mineral oil as a lubricant it leaves behind, which may dilute the nicer bones lube a tiny bit. Id say it probably works just fine if you wanted to keep doing that, but can easily do a little better.
I think I can get some new plastic shields for my bearings... with my 3d printer. I've got this rubbery filament that may get the result. Nice tip of using dental syringes! I've been using plain syringes and have been considering myself smart lol Guess I'm not the first one who thought about this.
I had really only just started 3D printing when I made this video, and hadn't use TPU yet, but that's not a bad idea. Not sure it will work, the brim of rubber shields are really thin, and the rubber is cast around brass to make it stiff, still could be doable though.
i didn't realize they had washers underneath saw it after you pointed out looks like copper washers. not sure why brass or copper washer is there tho. can you pls check if it contacts the washer when it turns? they wouldn't put those there for no reason those washers are more expensive than the seal itself : ) still 3d printable tho try with what you got doesn't have to be tpu whats to lose? i think its best to use 2 material here a washer from pla abs petg whatever you have or metal washers if needed and the seal itself from not so flexible hard tpu like 90a or similar. it is perfectly 3d printable just needs some trial and error. i have some small zz ones needs attention but those metal caps are problematic as it seems they will need replacement seals for sure. i will try to print some later as well
The washers are really thin, almost more like a foil. Definitely not going to be that expensive. I'm sure they're there to stiffen to seal and help ensure the seal stays away from the balls and cage. I've had a few cheap sealed bearings that were just solid rubber, and they seemed pretty junky. My biggest reservation with printing seals is that the groove the seal is supposed to fit in is very thin, so we're talking really thin layers and possible slight overhangs with a particularly slow and difficult material to print with. It does seem possible, but how finicky would it be to do?
cant be that hard. try when you are bored and got nothing better to do. different designs different materials different settings etc its small enough part to experiment quickly. at worst it wont work and you will learn a lot about your printer materials settings and designing parts with clearance : ) don't expect it to work the first time and hope for that. that wont improve you at all... check out other ppls works for reference and ideas i saw a guys work on thingyverse for metal clipped ones i guess he had a openscad custom writing seal design you may like that kinda thing dunno the point is go experiment you got nothing to lose have fun
I came here to learn how to clean my bearings without destroying them. This should be titled "cleaning AND DESTROYING metal bearings with metal shields"
![Kodak Black - Versatile 4 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VcP_1Ua__vY/mqdefault.jpg)
Kids, if you are watching and use your Dad’s favourite oyster knife, at least have the decency to hide it afterwards and pretend it is lost
Found the dad.
If you don't have any old rubber seals and don't have time to go out and buy some, and want to get the bearing reinstalled...you can reuse the old metal shield by turning it over an gentle taping bent section straight, perhaps with a small wooden dowel. I've also had good luck getting the seal off using a thin, dull knife blade. It doesn't damage the seal as much.
Probably depends on the bearings a lot.
These shields would definitely risk snapping a knife blade, really were quite stubborn.
If they come out less destructively, I could see them being salvageable.
But I wouldn't use them in applications where it would cause any sort of failure or safety issues if the seal came off.
Like if this was bearings inside a power tool or something.
I wouldn't trust a re-crimped shield to stay on with 100% reliability.
@@LongboardTechnology I've done this successfully over the years with no problems. The ''crimping'' is just a form of press fitting for mass production. Since you're replacing the shield by hand, you're not under the time constraints of producing 100's a minute like a factory is.
Just opened uncared for longboard and saw these crimped thingies. So instead of adding them to a landfill, they're back in action. Score one for good guys like you.
Thank you so much for this video! I just found you after having a hell of a time trying to clean the Bont bearings that came with my derby skates. Sincerely appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
Before my dad passed, he told me, "Son, someday this awl will be yours." And today I finally used it.
I don’t care
@@RicardoPerez-fd7bh so why did you reply?
@@koneko_469 to tell him that I didn’t care
@@RicardoPerez-fd7bh ratio + fatherless + no friends + yoi got bullied
@@RicardoPerez-fd7bh Schmuck!
This is a great video! Dental syringes are super handy. My only advice would be maybe using less grease. I use light coatings of white lithium grease, applied with a dental pick! It takes longer to apply than your method. But use what you got. And if course, grease is slower than light oiling, but pick your poison. Again, very helpful and thanks!
You rock. I did what you said and the metal ring popped out. I have a 1974 Arctic Cat and I cannot get a bearing shipped to me in at least 2 weeks. When I opened up the bearing there is some grease in there but it's dirty and definitely needs new grease. I don't see any scoring on the inside of the bearings or the walls so I will reuse them thank you so much for your help!!!! I will fix up the bent metal bearing ring and then do the same for the second one. When I do the install I will face the two bearings which had the metal rings repaired towards each other and I think the seal will be good for service.
i was going nuts thinking i was having a hard time with ABEC-3's....i have every tool imaginable in my garage so that wasnt a problem...i damaged the first few cause i didnt realize they were crimped and not exactly serviceable for most people. thought these came with a small notch or a circlip
3 minutes to get to the subject. Put a bolt slightly smaller than the bore in a Vise to hold the bearing while you work on it.
Thanks for the video! It is very useful! I got a shielded bearing on the suspension of my bike sized, so I'm gonna pop one side and grease it, while waiting for new bearings.
I personally use a Stanley knife to pop the shields off. It stops the shield getting as damaged.
Thanks for the tips!! Used a tiny flathead screwdriver to carefully pop one side off. The leverage tip helped.
Bro. I tried it. You made it so much easier.
Thanks.
this video is pure gold. thanks a ton
I have one bearing very rust i my basement. He have plastic seals. If I changed seal, will be my rusty bearing looking better?
Thanks for the nice tutorial. Since you already have quite a few rubber shields at hand and I see you have a 3D printer - could you please measure one of those shields and make an STL model available through the Printables site?
Haven't managed to make 3D printed shields work.
Thanks, great help. I'm about to service my mountain bike and getting ready to grease every bearing I'll encounter.
I use silicon grease in small quantities because I like the bearing to rotate freely and not look as if it's stuck
The grease ball bearings that came with my sector nine longboard that I bought one year ago to this week. One of them is noisy and all the bearings have this crown crimped shield installed so that being said their Chinese sourced bearings, I might just eventually replace all of them because where I longboard, there’s lots of dust, and also sand by the beach. I’m always cleaning and wiping down my wheels and skateboard after every session. I might just get a better set of bearings since I know what I’m dealing with now.
You are only supposed to add 25% grease anything more and it doesn’t give the bearing space to move
I can get away with going overboard a bit for a few reasons, firstly I'm only putting the shield on the one side. Secondly this is for skate, so its a much more forgiving application. But yes, normally you'd want to not just use a random amount.
Where did you get your syringe? And what kind of grease are you using?
Would leaving the shield of wouldn’t that make the bearings dirtier l?
Smart idea. Exactly what I was wondering, I think I damaged one of mine or possibly came that way. Going to pull it off and leave it just like reds for now, then ill pull the rest later once it's time to clean them.
ok, but how clean it? you show how dissambly and grease but no how you clean
Thanks for this video, took me ages to find instructions for these bearings!!!! Suggest editing/adding a few more descriptive words to the video title to help others find this super useful video!!!
Why do you use grease instead of lubricant? Grease is heavy weight and will slow them down
Because it largely doesn't have any effect as other factors come into play which limits your speed first, like air resistance.
It matters a lot less when going fast, but it does begin to matter when doing low speed stuff like long distance push, dance, or flatland skate.
Also, the grease I use doesn't have a very large effect on roll speed either compared to what other greases might do.
I take a small, but negligible hit on my speed, but in exchange for much better protection against dust, dirt, water, and wear.
Lubricant will run away, grease is oil and a binder usually soap and it keeps the oil in place.
That worked perfectly, Thank you!
Thank you. That was really informative
Hi. Can i use the bearings without shields?
Yes, but there won't be anything to keep the dirt out. That may be fine depending on what you're doing, or it might mean they get worn really fast.
@@LongboardTechnology Thank you. That is no issue for me, as long as they dont fall apart without shields.
The sad thing is you can't reuse the shield
Wait what
@@jahshaygrant7652 well he's put a big dent in them
Awesome! Thanks for saving me HOURS! 🙂
Great video, Very helpful!
wich is quiter? A bearing with or without the side sheilds with lubricant added? asking cause im trying to make a scilent cooling fan.
My Xbox One S fan is a lil to noisey for me xD
The bearings in cooling fans tend to use different style of bearings, often just plain bearings which wouldn't have shields at all.
If its more loud than it should be, It most likely would be easiest to get a replacement fan, in PC's that's 100% the way to go all the time. IDK if the One S fan is so easy to get a hold of though.
On my one S, I did try putting some grease in the fan bearing, but it really didn't really do much.
@@LongboardTechnology
well lucky me i think i found out a better way then removing the side sheilds.
long story short i realized my cooling fan had two sets of worn out bearings in it. i havested some fresh ones from other PC fans i had laying around and now the noise is back down to a near quite hum. also replaced the metal retention gascit with a plastic one.
but hey thanks for ur thaughts
I use md40 to clean and bones cream for lube. What do you think this combination ?
You should probably use acetone or alcohol to clean. Just make sure they are totally dry if you're using wd-40 to clean. Since it's water based can rust your bearings longtime
Wd40 you mean?
That works fine for cleaning, but probably more expensive than other alternatives which will be just as effective.
WD40 also has some mineral oil as a lubricant it leaves behind, which may dilute the nicer bones lube a tiny bit.
Id say it probably works just fine if you wanted to keep doing that, but can easily do a little better.
@@LongboardTechnology what about the silicone wd40?
2:33 what's this word? I like to use an aauwl?
Thanks, your video helped me alot
but they dont turn fast?
Ball bearing size please .....🙏🙏
I think these are standard d8xD22xB7 mm bearings (inner diameter X outer diameter X width).
Was that an anet a8 with a prusa bed? Looks like mine, just a little less molested lol
Its a Prusa MK3, the bed is brand spanking new though, this is only my third print on it.
Thank you, very helpful
Start at 3min
Thanks for this video!
Thank you very much! This video was really helpful. Unfortunately, I ruined a couple of shields :')
Nice video 🖖 👍
I think I can get some new plastic shields for my bearings... with my 3d printer. I've got this rubbery filament that may get the result. Nice tip of using dental syringes! I've been using plain syringes and have been considering myself smart lol Guess I'm not the first one who thought about this.
They seem to have a metal surface on the inner side.
@@dunbustin well shoot that make sense. I did print and tested with PLA, it seems doing okay.
Great video. Thanks!
Thank you so much.
you got a 3d printer right there... why don't you just print new shields for your bearings from tpu or something?
I had really only just started 3D printing when I made this video, and hadn't use TPU yet, but that's not a bad idea.
Not sure it will work, the brim of rubber shields are really thin, and the rubber is cast around brass to make it stiff, still could be doable though.
i didn't realize they had washers underneath saw it after you pointed out looks like copper washers. not sure why brass or copper washer is there tho. can you pls check if it contacts the washer when it turns? they wouldn't put those there for no reason those washers are more expensive than the seal itself : )
still 3d printable tho try with what you got doesn't have to be tpu whats to lose?
i think its best to use 2 material here a washer from pla abs petg whatever you have or metal washers if needed and the seal itself from not so flexible hard tpu like 90a or similar.
it is perfectly 3d printable just needs some trial and error.
i have some small zz ones needs attention but those metal caps are problematic as it seems they will need replacement seals for sure. i will try to print some later as well
The washers are really thin, almost more like a foil. Definitely not going to be that expensive.
I'm sure they're there to stiffen to seal and help ensure the seal stays away from the balls and cage. I've had a few cheap sealed bearings that were just solid rubber, and they seemed pretty junky.
My biggest reservation with printing seals is that the groove the seal is supposed to fit in is very thin, so we're talking really thin layers and possible slight overhangs with a particularly slow and difficult material to print with. It does seem possible, but how finicky would it be to do?
cant be that hard. try when you are bored and got nothing better to do. different designs different materials different settings etc its small enough part to experiment quickly. at worst it wont work and you will learn a lot about your printer materials settings and designing parts with clearance : ) don't expect it to work the first time and hope for that. that wont improve you at all... check out other ppls works for reference and ideas i saw a guys work on thingyverse for metal clipped ones i guess he had a openscad custom writing seal design you may like that kinda thing dunno the point is go experiment you got nothing to lose have fun
Nice tip!
Thanks
Super
Thank you for this video
I came here to learn how to clean my bearings without destroying them. This should be titled "cleaning AND DESTROYING metal bearings with metal shields"
that in wf they continue to make those bearings