Helpful video! It was a huge help to have any extra set of hands to get the wire ring back around the gasket. I did not have the special tool so I used needle nose pliers and a flat heat screw driver. Also, I recommend putting the wires back into the pump before bolting it back in as it a tight area to do it afterwards. Thank you again!
Incredibly fantastic this is available to help me replace the drain pump on my Kenmore 796 40272 washer. Slightly different screws and hose connections than mine, but video is well made and concise to get all the steps right in the right order. Thank you for providing it!
Both the drain and recirculating pumps use AC motors so the polarity does not matter. Regardless, on my washer, the recirculating pump wires are blue on top terminal, black on bottom and the drain pump has black wire on top terminal, brown on bottom.
This pump is clearly the weak link in the system. I have done this job 4 times (in 11 years). On the 3rd round I learned that I can use my bicycle tire irons to get the spring back on the door seal. However this time I decided to just unplug, drain the basin and lay the washer on it's back (i held it up slightly off the ground for the hoses in back). I was able to remove the pump body (the three machine bolts with the rubber standoffs. 2:25 on the video) and replace the pump without taking everything apart. I had to remove two hoses and unplug both pumps. It appears to have been a success. Much, much faster. I'm sure having done it before the standard way helped me and I still did plenty of swearing but I won't be taking the front off to do this again.
Not sure if I’m correct but I read that N is for neutral(black), and L is for live (colored) for wiring in case anyone else had problems like me. The pump should have markings under the connector for L and N, but generally just better to take a picture of the wiring before you take it apart.
The wire harness plug on many drain pumps will only fit one way so the neutral wire and line wire align correctly. If the harness fits either way, you may find markings on the pump that indicate which way to align the wires. On some models, you’ll need to refer to the wiring diagram to see which wire connects to which terminal on the drain pump. If you need help connecting the wires to your washer’s drain pump, let us know the model number of your washer and we’ll try to help you connect the wires properly.
Good video but they should have shown more detail once removing the pump from the housing. I had no way of knowing if I was installing backwards. Also the screws that secure the pump is both plastic not good considering if you strip screw you are going to have a leak
Actually this part can be replaced by just removing the bottom - no need to remove the front and back panel, rubber gasket, etc. My husband just replaced it $24.00 part from Amazon..running like a new washer!
It’s best to connect the wires to the drain pump spades in the same order that the wires were originally connected. On some drain pumps that use AC current, it may not matter which way you connect the wires to the drain pump. Check the rating label on the drain pump to see if it uses AC current. If you need more help connecting the drain pump wires, let us know the model number of your washer and we’ll try to help you further.
This is hellacious, I am so sorry for anyone who has to go through this process. My model has three screws on the bottom front, and a lower front panel comes off, and the pump is right there. Another screw to loosen the pump unit, undo the two hose clamps, remove the wires, and the pump is out in less than 2 minutes. Could be replaced in 5. My dryer is stacked on top, if I had to disassemble my unit to the amount shown here, it would take an hour, and that's assuming I knew every step. I imagine many units just end up in the dump because no one wants to pay a repairman $$$ to do this. Oh, and my replacement pump was under $30 on Amazon.
The part is around $48.00 dollars. But there is a tool for the spring that holds the front door rubber boot that is expensive. Around $100.00 and it's important that you have that to do the job properly.
These directions were perfect. I don’t know how much money this video saved me. I’d figure no less than $150
Once I got the silly Outer Spring taken care of this was an easy job. Thanks so much for the step-by-step walkthrough, probably saved me 300 bucks! 👍👍
Helpful video! It was a huge help to have any extra set of hands to get the wire ring back around the gasket. I did not have the special tool so I used needle nose pliers and a flat heat screw driver. Also, I recommend putting the wires back into the pump before bolting it back in as it a tight area to do it afterwards. Thank you again!
Incredibly fantastic this is available to help me replace the drain pump on my Kenmore 796 40272 washer. Slightly different screws and hose connections than mine, but video is well made and concise to get all the steps right in the right order. Thank you for providing it!
Thank you! Followed this and was able to DIY my drain pump! Perfect instructions. 👍
Can the pump be replaced from the hole at the bottom of washer ? Instead of taking so many things off ?
Both the drain and recirculating pumps use AC motors so the polarity does not matter. Regardless, on my washer, the recirculating pump wires are blue on top terminal, black on bottom and the drain pump has black wire on top terminal, brown on bottom.
This pump is clearly the weak link in the system. I have done this job 4 times (in 11 years). On the 3rd round I learned that I can use my bicycle tire irons to get the spring back on the door seal. However this time I decided to just unplug, drain the basin and lay the washer on it's back (i held it up slightly off the ground for the hoses in back). I was able to remove the pump body (the three machine bolts with the rubber standoffs. 2:25 on the video) and replace the pump without taking everything apart. I had to remove two hoses and unplug both pumps. It appears to have been a success. Much, much faster. I'm sure having done it before the standard way helped me and I still did plenty of swearing but I won't be taking the front off to do this again.
Best video ever for this job.
Not sure if I’m correct but I read that N is for neutral(black), and L is for live (colored) for wiring in case anyone else had problems like me. The pump should have markings under the connector for L and N, but generally just better to take a picture of the wiring before you take it apart.
Hello, one thing missed is when rewiring the pump which color wire goes where? Which color is Load, which is Neutral?
The wire harness plug on many drain pumps will only fit one way so the neutral wire and line wire align correctly. If the harness fits either way, you may find markings on the pump that indicate which way to align the wires. On some models, you’ll need to refer to the wiring diagram to see which wire connects to which terminal on the drain pump. If you need help connecting the wires to your washer’s drain pump, let us know the model number of your washer and we’ll try to help you connect the wires properly.
Good video but they should have shown more detail once removing the pump from the housing. I had no way of knowing if I was installing backwards.
Also the screws that secure the pump is both plastic not good considering if you strip screw you are going to have a leak
How do the wires on the pump plug in I have a brown and black wire on mine
My washing machine model is 7964126
Doesn’t matter, it’s AC and not polarity sensitive.
Hi, I my drain pump didn't come with that white casing. What part number is that so I can order it separately?
Let us know the model number of your washer and we'll try to help you find that part.
@@searspartsdirect LG WM3997HWA The "bad" part pulled from my washer was # 4681EA1007G, and thank you!
@@lynnmadore7373 Here's a link for the drain pump casing for that model: www.searspartsdirect.com/product/3ghkr3yjam-0026-795/id-3108er1001e
Actually this part can be replaced by just removing the bottom - no need to remove the front and back panel, rubber gasket, etc. My husband just replaced it $24.00 part from Amazon..running like a new washer!
Does it mAtter how the wire harness connection is reconnected?Or can they go in either slot?
It’s best to connect the wires to the drain pump spades in the same order that the wires were originally connected. On some drain pumps that use AC current, it may not matter which way you connect the wires to the drain pump. Check the rating label on the drain pump to see if it uses AC current. If you need more help connecting the drain pump wires, let us know the model number of your washer and we’ll try to help you further.
How do you know what is the correct pump to buy it with (replacement)
This is hellacious, I am so sorry for anyone who has to go through this process. My model has three screws on the bottom front, and a lower front panel comes off, and the pump is right there. Another screw to loosen the pump unit, undo the two hose clamps, remove the wires, and the pump is out in less than 2 minutes. Could be replaced in 5. My dryer is stacked on top, if I had to disassemble my unit to the amount shown here, it would take an hour, and that's assuming I knew every step. I imagine many units just end up in the dump because no one wants to pay a repairman $$$ to do this. Oh, and my replacement pump was under $30 on Amazon.
This washer is so badly design. Why do you need to disassemble the ENTIRE washer to change a part that can fail often?
How much it may cost I have draining problem on my Lg Intellowasher.
The part is around $48.00 dollars. But there is a tool for the spring that holds the front door rubber boot that is expensive. Around $100.00 and it's important that you have that to do the job properly.
@@davepiercy47 Is the tool really required? I've seen videos where the spring around the front door rubber boot comes off pretty easy.