So I finally found the correct wire diagram for my 2004 Ford f150 Fx4. Once I found that, your video describing the wires made the install super fast. Thanks so much. Works great!!
On the remote start the Purple with White stripe is the tachometer wire. If you want to use the actual tach wire in the vehicle it is either at the back of the cluster or under the hood at the ECM.(ECU) On the 4.3L, the tach wire is in pin 20 in the connector labeled red of the ECM. On the 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L, the tach wire is located in pin 10 in the red connector of the ECM.
I’m locating all the wires before I dive in, and I’m having trouble finding accessory wire (the heavy orange wire pointed out in video) I have a 2003 dodge pickup 2500 5.7, the only way I get the radio on without the dash is turning the key backwards toward me. Will the wire in my truck be the same gauge as the orange wire?
The Purple wire with the White stripe is the tach wire on the remote start. Most vehicles on the coil pack will have an “uncommon” wire color. Example: Let’s say cylinder 1 has Black, Red, Blue wires and cylinder 2 has Black, Red, Green wires. You could connect the tach wire to the Red wire on cylinder 1 or Green wire on cylinder 2. That’s a general rule of thumb, you should always test for a tach signal prior to connecting. You might even have a tach wire behind the gauge cluster, at a control unit, or one of the kick panels too.
A previous owner installed this system in my 2000 Silverado 1500 and it's absolutely wreaking havoc on my ignition! What's the quickest way to disconnect the remote start and just go back to the factory setup??
+Michael Bass Pull the green 30A fuses that are on the big red wires coming off the remote start. Being that the ignition wires are simply "tapped" into and there isn't a starter kill relay, there shouldn't be any wires that need to be reconnected/repaired.
Great video describing the wires and where they go, you video is the best out there! Keep it up. I have a question on the Viper 4105v(Directed like yours) going into a '13 F150, my install sheet is not that great. On the Remote Start Harness(5 pin) the blue/white says -200mA 2nd status/defogger, I am thinking that I need to connect that to my vehicles "Keysense" wire? Also second question is on the Main Harness(yours doesn't as many as mine) 1&2 say they connect to the factory alarm arm & disarm. I don't have an alarm per se, but it does have the passive horn blast. Do I use them in them in my truck? My wiring diagram shows an alarm arm wire, but the disarm says,"Disarm No Unlock Transponder and ignition"?
+Kathy Warner shoot me an email to refinedperformance@gmail.com and I can send you the tech sheet from Directed if that's different than what you have. The blue/white wire is going to go to the bypass you are using, usually the same color regardless if you are using a Directed bypass or a Fortin/idatalink/Flashlogic. As far as your factory alarm disarm, on 2010 Ford vehicles, the factory alarm can only be disarmed by either unlocking the doors using the factory transmitter, or by inserting a valid key into the ignition and turning it to the ON position. I believe you will be ok with just using the bypass/transponder as this will mimic a key and the remote start will turn on the ignition and accessory, thus disarming the factory alarm. If that does not work I have a tech sheet I can send along that outlines how to disarm the factory alarm during remote start.
@@MotoCARR847 Hi just wondering my pkall has a blue/white wire and a green key sense wire. Does that mean I connect the blue/white on the pkall to the blue/white on the remote start and then use the green for key sense. I only ask because some say to use the blue/white for key sense. Just making sure so I don't screw this up. Thanks
@@leonkellogg595 depends on the vehicle, some don't need key sense at all, some need it only to deactivate the oem security and then rearm after remote start. I'd start with just connecting the Blue/White and see what happens. Worst case is the vehicle will either not start or start but set the factory alarm off if the Green wire isn't hooked up.
On my Miata I did not use a hood or neutral safety switch(s). Reason being is I'm the only one that works on my cars, and if there is ever a time where I can not remember if the car is in neutral, I simply don't remote start the car.(I put the neutral safety directly to ground) On other customer cars I typically end up putting the hood switch through an existing hole(or drill a new one) down by the headlight. Customers with manual trans cars that do not have a factory neutral safety wire, I typically recommend other DEI products that are designed for manual trans vehicles and have a vehicle exit procedure to perform prior to getting out of the car in order for the remote start to function.
+MotoCARR MotoCARR-dot-com I didn't connect those wires either but it keeps throwing the codes for missing both of them. Is it supposed to start without them?
It will start without the hoodpin connected, but it will NOT start if the neutral safety is not connected to a ground reference.(Either through some sort of switch, or by connecting it straight to ground.)
I have the 4103 model, and perhaps they all refer to ac current on the tach wire; but does that mean all coil pack like on the 3.3L Chrysler engine have ac and not dc current?
Tim Smith the wiring should be almost identical to the model I reviewed. I don’t know about ALL coilpacks being AC but I certainly have come across them.(Not sure about your Chrysler 3.3L) Honestly, 99% of the remote starts that I do, I don’t connect the tach wire, but use the voltage setting.(I think it even comes default to use voltage and you have to change it in the programming menus.)
@@MotoCARR847 You highly recommend just the preprogrammed voltage as the tach reading more or less? It is reliable? Their manual and RUclips videos seem a bit dated lol.
@@netguru78 yeah absolutely. If the vehicle is regularly driven in the winter months, I would say 95% of the time the vehicle starts on the first try. The few times it doesn't, in my experience it is due to a sudden drop in temps, or the vehicle hasn't been driven in a while. This is assuming this is going on a somewhat newer vehicle. If this is going on something from say the 80s or 90s, and by nature is harder to start in the colder months, it might be worth the effort to connect the purple/white tach wire as I believe it cranks for three seconds at a time when it's reading RPMs. Crank time by voltage is usually just shy of or right around one second for each attempt to start. If it doesn't start the first try, the crank time is increased a hair.
@@MotoCARR847 I appreciate you messaging me back. Either, I have something hooked up wrong; but I have been over both diagrams one for the remote start and the diagram for the car. I have check it like 10 times, it is wired per recommendation. I cannot get the led to light up on rpm read, so how do I set it to read voltage instead of tach. Otherwise I can try rewiring the tach cable.
I just purchased and installed the ready remote 24921B, but I couldn't figure out the parking lights, this model doesn't seem to have the fuse on the back like the model you showed in this video. Do you have any advice?
+2000tmarin Take a look at page 6 of the manual at the following link: www.readyremote.com/pdf/manuals/24921.pdf It's just a small black piece of plastic sticking out the side, like the ones on this Avital www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures_new.php?id=23832&picture_id=425128
+2000tmarin I'm not sure what the difference is between 24921 and 24921B but I can't imagine it being significant enough to where they would eliminate this jumper
Thank you very much for providing the link to the guide, I was able to get it fixed! I bought this unit brand new but it didn't come with any instructions... I guess when they say "Do It Yourself" they really mean it (joke).
frog man try just powering up accessory 1 with the remote start and see if your heater controls work. Some vehicles have most of the comfort/convenience accessories on one circuit, but some have a good amount split. Example: some may have your climate controls on accessory 1, but the rear window defrost on accessory 2. So if you wanted your defrost to come on with the remote start, you would need to use a relay(if your model remote start doesn’t have a second accessory wire already) to power up that second circuit so the defrost can be turned on with the remote. 👍🏼
I have the 21930 keyless entry and cannot for the life of me find the original manual. I have had it for three years and never installed it. I need to know what the different wires on the alarm are. Black: of course the neg Red with inline fuse (Continuous positive) (ignition) Black with purple line: ? Blue: ? Blue with white line: ? Orange: ? White: ? So im stuck halfway through........ I am installing on a 91 Honda Accord Se any suggestions
+Melissa Blair I don't have the manual for the 21930, but you can use one that is similar to help you install it, the Avital 3100L. It's going to have more features than the 21930 but the wire colors are going to be the same. Owner's Manual: www.directeddealers.com/manuals/OG/Avital/G3100L%202008-12,%20web.pdf Install Manual: www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N3100L%202008-12,%20web.pdf Black: Usually goes to chassis ground Red with inline fuse : This will go to to the 12V constant power wire Black with purple line: Verify these colors, I don't recall seeing a black with purple wire on Directed products. Thick purple is usually goes to the starter wire, thin purple usually is a door trigger input Blue: Multiplex trigger input, usually this can be used as an input for a glass break sensor, tilt sensor, magnetic switch, etc. Blue with white line: Do you mean white with a blue line? Usually blue with white is only on remote starts Orange: If it's a thick wire it usually goes to the accessory wire at the ignition. If it's a think orange wire that is usually ground when armed. You would use this if you want to ground an accessory when you hit the lock button. Like those flashing LED scanners White: Usually is the parking light wire Feature comparison which will show what features are available on your unit: www.readyremote.com/pdf/Ready_Remote_Feature_Comparison.pdf Click on this link and it will take you to a vehicle selection guide where you can enter in your Honda Accord and view/print out your wire colors for your car: www.readyremote.com/main.asp?action=select&yr=2246&product=Remote%20Start&make=Honda&model=Accord#
@MotoCARR I'v got a question/problem. My remote starter looks exactly like this from video (even antena). Problem with mine is this It starts only once for about 30 attempts. Its mounted on Subaru Outback 2010. When I double press remote, cars get message (blink once), but doesn't try to start (normaly). It self tryes three times. When I press remote start button for about 5 seconds. Car lights blinks five times - I don't know what that means :/ Car battery is brand new (was weak). I'v bean looking for main box but no luck :/ Any help ?
@@MaciekGrabski ok. Next step is open the hood of your Outback and see if there is a hood pin safety switch installed somewhere around the outside perimeter. Think areas where the hood may come in contact with the fenders, headlights, radiator, etc. See the link at the end of this comment to see what one looks like. If you have one, press it down all the way, hold it, then try and remote start the car. Being that it acts like it is going to start but doesn't engage the starter makes me think that there is a "safety" somewhere that is preventing it from trying to start. www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/attachments/f9/141705d1437861472-remote-start-my-99-wj-66632908.jpg
@@MotoCARR847 I'v looked very carefuly for switch but found nothing. No switch installed. Maybe this will be the clue: fiew days ago, remote starter start engine on seconda try (self repeat). No luck since then. I thought it's becouse of to low voltage - I turned off everything but nothing changes.
Maciek Grabski ok yes that is helpful. If the car started and ran ok, then you are on the right path. Most likely your remote start is setup for what is called “virtual tach”, meaning the vehicle is using the car’s voltage to detect if the car successfully started and is running. The next step will involve a bit of work. You need to figure out if your car is trying to use “Virtual Tach”(voltage checking) or if it was installed using the purple/white wire coming off of the remote start.(Tachometer input wire). The tachometer wire can be run to a coilpack in the engine compartment or for your specific vehicle, behind the instrument cluster. If you do not see a purple/white wire, you will need to run the wire from the remote start brain to the instrument cluster or coilpack, then change the menu setting from “virtual tach” to “tachometer input”. Color: red/white to white/green Polarity: ac Location: instrument cluster, white 40 pin plug, pin 30 or ECM behind glove box, white 35 pin plug (B), pin 15
i have watched this several times, the remote starter kit i have doesn't have this " parking light jumper thing" on the back like the the one you're showing its the 24921B model it also has another box the has wires not shown in this video. I'm very confused on what the other box is for , no manual to this kit, and they say easy to install .. lol .. any further info would be great, ty for this video
+Jim A Here is a link to the manual. If for some reason this does not work, shoot me an email to RefinedPerformance@Gmail.com and I can send it to you that way. On this unit there should be a little "trap door" that you can pop off on the right side of the unit. Underneath it is the jumper for your parking lights. Let me know if there are other questions! -Julian www.directeddealers.com/manuals/og/designtech/24921_Owners-Installation_Guide_01-06.pdf
+MotoCARR MotoCARR-dot-com grrr i am so heated up this product ready remote is crap . i have all the wires hooked up right on the main harness ignition , power, and starter wires.. the brake safety wire is hooked up, the ground is grounded to a clean metal area. i have no red light on the module itself indicating to me there is no power ? , but i tested all connections ,and all are reading the voltage they should be reading . i am at a loss and about to rip this thing out of my truck. that blue defogger wire is not hooked up. i did read that there is a key sense wire (light blue) does the defogger wire hook into that to make the remote starter think there is a key in the ignition?? i i also grounded the neutral switch wire.. any help would be great ty :)
+Jim A ok just to cover the bases......you should have: -the thick red, pink, pink/white(if your vehicle has a 2nd ignition wire), orange, and purple connected at the key ignition wires. -You have the thin black ground wire connected to a solid metal ground. -You have the thin black/white neutral safety wire connected to either: the ground side of the emergency brake switch, or straight to ground(not recommended if your vehicle is a manual trans) -If your vehicle is ~1995 or newer, chances are you need an ignition immobilizer interface/bypass/interface.(an extra part not included with a remote start) If so, the blue/white wire would be connected to it. That wire would tell the bypass to "turn on", making your vehicle believe there is a key in the ignition, and the vehicle would start via the remote. If you let me know what vehicle you have I can tell you which bypass is needed(if any)
Do you have a video on how to install this remote? I bought it for my girlfriend for Christmas for $35. They want to charge her $150 to put it in. I want to try and do it myself but there are a lot more wires then i thought and the instructions are kind of confusing.
I do have a video of one being installed in a Mazda Miata, it covers most of the basics of what needs to go where, but to me honest there is A LOT of variations in vehicles, depending on what year/make/model you are putting this in. If its 20 years old, it will generally be the same, but if it is newer there will most likely be additional parts needed for the install.
Yeas later i still havent done this and just got a new rav 4 , (basic model) and the remote start i had in the previous car when with it lol i guess im too scared to even attempt this i hear it can go wrong pretty bad is that true ?
Technically the answer I should be telling you is yes things can go pretty bad if you have no idea what you're doing and you aren't a careful person. If you go slow, read, and follow instructions, you should be fine :-)
yes you will need a bypass modules like the iDatalink ADS-ALCA. You can find them all over eBay for about $50, some will even program it for you before sending.
Albertino Gomes -turn the ignition on then off. -Press the control button twice, then press and hold the third press. LED should flash twice repeatedly. -While still holding the third press of the control button, grab the remote and press the button once, then count the number of times the LED flashes. You’re looking for two LED flashes, so if the LED is only flashing once you will need to press the remote button again.(All of this while still holding the control button) -Once you get two LED flashes, let go of the control button, then turn on the ignition, then back off. Done!
Albertino Gomes yes it’s certainly possible. It’s not required for regular day to day operation of the remote start, but it is needed for feature programming. If you can see the remote start itself installed under your dashboard, look to see if something is plugged into the Blue two pin port. If nothing is plugged in there, then the push button is not installed. If you see something in that slot, follow the wire and it will lead you to the programming button.
MotoCARR Online I'm going to check this weekend I can see the remote starter box all the way jammed in the back I can touch it but my hands is to big to move it around. I'm pretty sure the switch is somewhere staring right at me.Thanks again I will let you know this weekend how I make out
Dear MotoCARR, i bought a Ready Remote 24921, some years ago, In Atlanta, for my Suzuki Grand Vitara 1999, engine H25A, V6 automatic transmission, 4wd. When I arrived back to my home in Paraguay, I checked the unit in order to start installation. I could see that it came without remote controller. Also I could not get wiring diagram from web page. I was many months writing emails to manufacturer without success. Finally, some years later I could buy a replacement remote controller and I got a link for access to wiring to my car, for 7 days. Wiring shows some connections. Not all them. Now, lost my job, I am trying to install it but again I get stopped because of missing information. I got a list from web which I printed. "DIRECTWIRE WIRING INFORMATION-SUZUKI / GRAND VITARA / 1999 / Remote Start. There are many items that are not related to Ready Remote installation manual connectors description. The kit is described as "Do it yourself". Later, from vendor and manufacturer I am pushed to request a "professional installer". I am electronic technician and I have installed many accessories in my car. I am blocked of device information from manufacturer. I have insisted many times but they do not answer. Their page also shows many brands and they do not give the necessary informations. Can you please give some informations of wiring for my car? Thank you very much. Best regards, Christian Larson Asuncion, Paraguay. email. larsonchristian2@gmail.com
Sorry to hear about your job loss! I just sent you an email containing the wiring guide for your vehicle, let me know what questions you may have and I will do my best to answer them! -Julian
MotoCARR Dear Julian. I got your emails. Thank you so much. You have answered my questions within minutes with all the information I could not get from manufacturer in years. I really appreciate so much your kind help and your mind to help others. That's a quality mind of person and company. Thank you !!!!
Yes it should. There is a programming menu feature called "Diesel wait to start timer" which is the amount of time the remote start will wait after activation before it will try to start.
Jose Velarde it is already preprogrammed. All you have to do is change features or options to your liking. Depending on your car, you may have to program an ignition immobilized bypass
Jose Velarde you need to find out who makes the brand of the ignition immobilized bypass. A lot of them require you to reflash the module from a laptop with special software and a tool, it can't be done on your own. But, if you just got a replacement key, I don't think your module needs to be reflashed.
Mine is exactly like this i couldnt get the co. to give me any help they said watch the vid .your vid is 1000 time better than thiers.does the large diameter wires all connect o large wires or do some connect to smallerwires .i have a 01 s10 ,,very basic no special key auto trans .i still quit and give up .ive done my wives car much simpler brand of starter
Dent Tech on your S10 for the most part the big thick wires on your remote start will go to the thick wires in the truck. Shoot me an email to refinedperformance@gmail.com and I can send you a wire sheet if you need.
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Sneaking [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ILUps2zDFU/mqdefault.jpg)
So I finally found the correct wire diagram for my 2004 Ford f150 Fx4. Once I found that, your video describing the wires made the install super fast. Thanks so much. Works great!!
Glad it worked out and was able to help you. The manuals definitely don't make it easy to understand sometimes!
So I installing the 4103r Mosel and it’s on 2000 gmc 1500 on the tach wire which wire would I hook up to the black or the red or does it matter
On the remote start the Purple with White stripe is the tachometer wire. If you want to use the actual tach wire in the vehicle it is either at the back of the cluster or under the hood at the ECM.(ECU) On the 4.3L, the tach wire is in pin 20 in the connector labeled red of the ECM. On the 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L, the tach wire is located in pin 10 in the red connector of the ECM.
I’m locating all the wires before I dive in, and I’m having trouble finding accessory wire (the heavy orange wire pointed out in video)
I have a 2003 dodge pickup 2500 5.7, the only way I get the radio on without the dash is turning the key backwards toward me. Will the wire in my truck be the same gauge as the orange wire?
Alexander Avila I’m showing the accessory wire on your 2003 Ram as being Green and second accessory being Orange.
Thanks man I’ll check it out tomorrow..Where exactly did you look? I’m having trouble pulling up a good diagram.. anything helps
one question the tach wire that go the the coil packs which wire it’s connect to ?
The Purple wire with the White stripe is the tach wire on the remote start. Most vehicles on the coil pack will have an “uncommon” wire color. Example: Let’s say cylinder 1 has Black, Red, Blue wires and cylinder 2 has Black, Red, Green wires. You could connect the tach wire to the Red wire on cylinder 1 or Green wire on cylinder 2.
That’s a general rule of thumb, you should always test for a tach signal prior to connecting. You might even have a tach wire behind the gauge cluster, at a control unit, or one of the kick panels too.
Could the arm/disarm wire, be the cause of my gfriends 2006 Honda ridgeline rtl navi screen to remain blank after python remote start install?
james cooper do you mean blank as in it stays off while the remote start is activated, or it stays blank all the time.(IE: It doesn’t work anymore)
A previous owner installed this system in my 2000 Silverado 1500 and it's absolutely wreaking havoc on my ignition! What's the quickest way to disconnect the remote start and just go back to the factory setup??
+Michael Bass Pull the green 30A fuses that are on the big red wires coming off the remote start. Being that the ignition wires are simply "tapped" into and there isn't a starter kill relay, there shouldn't be any wires that need to be reconnected/repaired.
Great video describing the wires and where they go, you video is the best out there! Keep it up. I have a question on the Viper 4105v(Directed like yours) going into a '13 F150, my install sheet is not that great. On the Remote Start Harness(5 pin) the blue/white says -200mA 2nd status/defogger, I am thinking that I need to connect that to my vehicles "Keysense" wire? Also second question is on the Main Harness(yours doesn't as many as mine) 1&2 say they connect to the factory alarm arm & disarm. I don't have an alarm per se, but it does have the passive horn blast. Do I use them in them in my truck? My wiring diagram shows an alarm arm wire, but the disarm says,"Disarm No Unlock Transponder and ignition"?
+Kathy Warner shoot me an email to refinedperformance@gmail.com and I can send you the tech sheet from Directed if that's different than what you have. The blue/white wire is going to go to the bypass you are using, usually the same color regardless if you are using a Directed bypass or a Fortin/idatalink/Flashlogic. As far as your factory alarm disarm, on 2010 Ford vehicles, the factory alarm can only be disarmed by either unlocking the doors using the factory transmitter, or by inserting a valid key into the ignition and turning it to the ON position. I believe you will be ok with just using the bypass/transponder as this will mimic a key and the remote start will turn on the ignition and accessory, thus disarming the factory alarm. If that does not work I have a tech sheet I can send along that outlines how to disarm the factory alarm during remote start.
@@MotoCARR847 Hi just wondering my pkall has a blue/white wire and a green key sense wire. Does that mean I connect the blue/white on the pkall to the blue/white on the remote start and then use the green for key sense. I only ask because some say to use the blue/white for key sense. Just making sure so I don't screw this up. Thanks
@@leonkellogg595 depends on the vehicle, some don't need key sense at all, some need it only to deactivate the oem security and then rearm after remote start. I'd start with just connecting the Blue/White and see what happens. Worst case is the vehicle will either not start or start but set the factory alarm off if the Green wire isn't hooked up.
@@MotoCARR847 Thx
I watched your 1990 Miata video also and I was wondering where did you put the hood pin and neutral safety wires to? I also got a 1990 Miata
On my Miata I did not use a hood or neutral safety switch(s). Reason being is I'm the only one that works on my cars, and if there is ever a time where I can not remember if the car is in neutral, I simply don't remote start the car.(I put the neutral safety directly to ground)
On other customer cars I typically end up putting the hood switch through an existing hole(or drill a new one) down by the headlight. Customers with manual trans cars that do not have a factory neutral safety wire, I typically recommend other DEI products that are designed for manual trans vehicles and have a vehicle exit procedure to perform prior to getting out of the car in order for the remote start to function.
+MotoCARR MotoCARR-dot-com how do you delete take out that option ?
Which option do you mean?
+MotoCARR MotoCARR-dot-com I didn't connect those wires either but it keeps throwing the codes for missing both of them. Is it supposed to start without them?
It will start without the hoodpin connected, but it will NOT start if the neutral safety is not connected to a ground reference.(Either through some sort of switch, or by connecting it straight to ground.)
Question had a Remote start python 580 professionally installed 2002 will newer python modules plug an play into existing RS wiring/connectors ?
Jon A it depends on what newer model you go with.
I have the 4103 model, and perhaps they all refer to ac current on the tach wire; but does that mean all coil pack like on the 3.3L Chrysler engine have ac and not dc current?
Tim Smith the wiring should be almost identical to the model I reviewed. I don’t know about ALL coilpacks being AC but I certainly have come across them.(Not sure about your Chrysler 3.3L)
Honestly, 99% of the remote starts that I do, I don’t connect the tach wire, but use the voltage setting.(I think it even comes default to use voltage and you have to change it in the programming menus.)
@@MotoCARR847 You highly recommend just the preprogrammed voltage as the tach reading more or less? It is reliable? Their manual and RUclips videos seem a bit dated lol.
@@netguru78 yeah absolutely. If the vehicle is regularly driven in the winter months, I would say 95% of the time the vehicle starts on the first try. The few times it doesn't, in my experience it is due to a sudden drop in temps, or the vehicle hasn't been driven in a while. This is assuming this is going on a somewhat newer vehicle. If this is going on something from say the 80s or 90s, and by nature is harder to start in the colder months, it might be worth the effort to connect the purple/white tach wire as I believe it cranks for three seconds at a time when it's reading RPMs. Crank time by voltage is usually just shy of or right around one second for each attempt to start. If it doesn't start the first try, the crank time is increased a hair.
@@MotoCARR847 It is a 96 concorde, it does start on the coldest of days up here plus it has a block heater as well.
@@MotoCARR847 I appreciate you messaging me back. Either, I have something hooked up wrong; but I have been over both diagrams one for the remote start and the diagram for the car. I have check it like 10 times, it is wired per recommendation. I cannot get the led to light up on rpm read, so how do I set it to read voltage instead of tach. Otherwise I can try rewiring the tach cable.
hello good video a question why my car only starts with the key in the switch, it's a car LINCOLN MKZ 2007 THANK YOU
Dionicio Herrera most likely because you either did not install an ignition immobilizer with the remote start, or it is not programmed properly.
I just purchased and installed the ready remote 24921B, but I couldn't figure out the parking lights, this model doesn't seem to have the fuse on the back like the model you showed in this video. Do you have any advice?
+2000tmarin
Take a look at page 6 of the manual at the following link: www.readyremote.com/pdf/manuals/24921.pdf
It's just a small black piece of plastic sticking out the side, like the ones on this Avital www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures_new.php?id=23832&picture_id=425128
+2000tmarin I'm not sure what the difference is between 24921 and 24921B but I can't imagine it being significant enough to where they would eliminate this jumper
Thank you very much for providing the link to the guide, I was able to get it fixed! I bought this unit brand new but it didn't come with any instructions... I guess when they say "Do It Yourself" they really mean it (joke).
+2000tmarin no problem glad it worked out!
My car has 2 accessory wires do they just get joined together orr
frog man try just powering up accessory 1 with the remote start and see if your heater controls work. Some vehicles have most of the comfort/convenience accessories on one circuit, but some have a good amount split. Example: some may have your climate controls on accessory 1, but the rear window defrost on accessory 2. So if you wanted your defrost to come on with the remote start, you would need to use a relay(if your model remote start doesn’t have a second accessory wire already) to power up that second circuit so the defrost can be turned on with the remote. 👍🏼
I have the 21930 keyless entry and cannot for the life of me find the original manual. I have had it for three years and never installed it. I need to know what the different wires on the alarm are.
Black: of course the neg
Red with inline fuse (Continuous positive) (ignition)
Black with purple line: ?
Blue: ?
Blue with white line: ?
Orange: ?
White: ?
So im stuck halfway through........
I am installing on a 91 Honda Accord Se
any suggestions
+Melissa Blair
I don't have the manual for the 21930, but you can use one that is similar to help you install it, the Avital 3100L. It's going to have more features than the 21930 but the wire colors are going to be the same.
Owner's Manual: www.directeddealers.com/manuals/OG/Avital/G3100L%202008-12,%20web.pdf
Install Manual: www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N3100L%202008-12,%20web.pdf
Black: Usually goes to chassis ground
Red with inline fuse : This will go to to the 12V constant power wire
Black with purple line: Verify these colors, I don't recall seeing a black with purple wire on Directed products. Thick purple is usually goes to the starter wire, thin purple usually is a door trigger input
Blue: Multiplex trigger input, usually this can be used as an input for a glass break sensor, tilt sensor, magnetic switch, etc.
Blue with white line: Do you mean white with a blue line? Usually blue with white is only on remote starts
Orange: If it's a thick wire it usually goes to the accessory wire at the ignition. If it's a think orange wire that is usually ground when armed. You would use this if you want to ground an accessory when you hit the lock button. Like those flashing LED scanners
White: Usually is the parking light wire
Feature comparison which will show what features are available on your unit: www.readyremote.com/pdf/Ready_Remote_Feature_Comparison.pdf
Click on this link and it will take you to a vehicle selection guide where you can enter in your Honda Accord and view/print out your wire colors for your car: www.readyremote.com/main.asp?action=select&yr=2246&product=Remote%20Start&make=Honda&model=Accord#
@MotoCARR I'v got a question/problem. My remote starter looks exactly like this from video (even antena). Problem with mine is this It starts only once for about 30 attempts. Its mounted on Subaru Outback 2010. When I double press remote, cars get message (blink once), but doesn't try to start (normaly). It self tryes three times. When I press remote start button for about 5 seconds. Car lights blinks five times - I don't know what that means :/
Car battery is brand new (was weak).
I'v bean looking for main box but no luck :/
Any help ?
Maciek Grabski try this.....put your key in the ignition but don’t turn it, then try and remote start. Let me know what happens.
@@MotoCARR847 nothing changes. The same raection.
@@MaciekGrabski ok. Next step is open the hood of your Outback and see if there is a hood pin safety switch installed somewhere around the outside perimeter. Think areas where the hood may come in contact with the fenders, headlights, radiator, etc. See the link at the end of this comment to see what one looks like. If you have one, press it down all the way, hold it, then try and remote start the car. Being that it acts like it is going to start but doesn't engage the starter makes me think that there is a "safety" somewhere that is preventing it from trying to start.
www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/attachments/f9/141705d1437861472-remote-start-my-99-wj-66632908.jpg
@@MotoCARR847 I'v looked very carefuly for switch but found nothing. No switch installed. Maybe this will be the clue: fiew days ago, remote starter start engine on seconda try (self repeat). No luck since then. I thought it's becouse of to low voltage - I turned off everything but nothing changes.
Maciek Grabski ok yes that is helpful. If the car started and ran ok, then you are on the right path. Most likely your remote start is setup for what is called “virtual tach”, meaning the vehicle is using the car’s voltage to detect if the car successfully started and is running. The next step will involve a bit of work.
You need to figure out if your car is trying to use “Virtual Tach”(voltage checking) or if it was installed using the purple/white wire coming off of the remote start.(Tachometer input wire). The tachometer wire can be run to a coilpack in the engine compartment or for your specific vehicle, behind the instrument cluster.
If you do not see a purple/white wire, you will need to run the wire from the remote start brain to the instrument cluster or coilpack, then change the menu setting from “virtual tach” to “tachometer input”.
Color: red/white to white/green
Polarity: ac
Location: instrument cluster, white 40 pin plug, pin 30 or ECM behind glove box, white 35 pin plug (B), pin 15
i have watched this several times, the remote starter kit i have doesn't have this " parking light jumper thing" on the back like the the one you're showing its the 24921B model it also has another box the has wires not shown in this video. I'm very confused on what the other box is for , no manual to this kit, and they say easy to install .. lol .. any further info would be great, ty for this video
+Jim A
Here is a link to the manual. If for some reason this does not work, shoot me an email to RefinedPerformance@Gmail.com and I can send it to you that way. On this unit there should be a little "trap door" that you can pop off on the right side of the unit. Underneath it is the jumper for your parking lights. Let me know if there are other questions! -Julian
www.directeddealers.com/manuals/og/designtech/24921_Owners-Installation_Guide_01-06.pdf
thank you, Julian i will have a look at this link!
+MotoCARR MotoCARR-dot-com grrr i am so heated up this product ready remote is crap . i have all the wires hooked up right on the main harness ignition , power, and starter wires.. the brake safety wire is hooked up, the ground is grounded to a clean metal area. i have no red light on the module itself indicating to me there is no power ? , but i tested all connections ,and all are reading the voltage they should be reading . i am at a loss and about to rip this thing out of my truck. that blue defogger wire is not hooked up. i did read that there is a key sense wire (light blue) does the defogger wire hook into that to make the remote starter think there is a key in the ignition?? i i also grounded the neutral switch wire.. any help would be great ty :)
+Jim A ok just to cover the bases......you should have:
-the thick red, pink, pink/white(if your vehicle has a 2nd ignition wire), orange, and purple connected at the key ignition wires.
-You have the thin black ground wire connected to a solid metal ground.
-You have the thin black/white neutral safety wire connected to either: the ground side of the emergency brake switch, or straight to ground(not recommended if your vehicle is a manual trans)
-If your vehicle is ~1995 or newer, chances are you need an ignition immobilizer interface/bypass/interface.(an extra part not included with a remote start) If so, the blue/white wire would be connected to it. That wire would tell the bypass to "turn on", making your vehicle believe there is a key in the ignition, and the vehicle would start via the remote. If you let me know what vehicle you have I can tell you which bypass is needed(if any)
+Jim A as an FYI, that LED is a programming LED. It flashes in accordance with button presses to change menu features of the remote start.
Do you have a video on how to install this remote? I bought it for my girlfriend for Christmas for $35. They want to charge her $150 to put it in. I want to try and do it myself but there are a lot more wires then i thought and the instructions are kind of confusing.
I do have a video of one being installed in a Mazda Miata, it covers most of the basics of what needs to go where, but to me honest there is A LOT of variations in vehicles, depending on what year/make/model you are putting this in. If its 20 years old, it will generally be the same, but if it is newer there will most likely be additional parts needed for the install.
I have this exact one! I need help re programming the fob. I have no idea how to!
Jr Garcia page 21 :-)
www.readyremote.com/pdf/manuals/24921.pdf
Yeas later i still havent done this and just got a new rav 4 , (basic model) and the remote start i had in the previous car when with it lol i guess im too scared to even attempt this i hear it can go wrong pretty bad is that true ?
Technically the answer I should be telling you is yes things can go pretty bad if you have no idea what you're doing and you aren't a careful person. If you go slow, read, and follow instructions, you should be fine :-)
@@MotoCARR847 sorry to bother you once more but if my van has a basic key do i need to have a bypass module, i have a 2017 toyota rav 4 le
yes you will need a bypass modules like the iDatalink ADS-ALCA. You can find them all over eBay for about $50, some will even program it for you before sending.
Is this hard to learn /complete? And where can one get the manuals for this ?
The manual can be found in the 2nd link of the description.
I have the 24921b model and I can't figure out how to change the run time it is currently set up to run for 12 mins I want to change it to run longer
Albertino Gomes
-turn the ignition on then off.
-Press the control button twice, then press and hold the third press. LED should flash twice repeatedly.
-While still holding the third press of the control button, grab the remote and press the button once, then count the number of times the LED flashes. You’re looking for two LED flashes, so if the LED is only flashing once you will need to press the remote button again.(All of this while still holding the control button)
-Once you get two LED flashes, let go of the control button, then turn on the ignition, then back off.
Done!
MotoCARR Online I looked for the switch and I can't find it nowhere,is it possible it was never installed by the guys that did it it's got me confused
Albertino Gomes yes it’s certainly possible. It’s not required for regular day to day operation of the remote start, but it is needed for feature programming. If you can see the remote start itself installed under your dashboard, look to see if something is plugged into the Blue two pin port. If nothing is plugged in there, then the push button is not installed. If you see something in that slot, follow the wire and it will lead you to the programming button.
MotoCARR Online I'm going to check this weekend I can see the remote starter box all the way jammed in the back I can touch it but my hands is to big to move it around. I'm pretty sure the switch is somewhere staring right at me.Thanks again I will let you know this weekend how I make out
MotoCARR Online I just checked again I was able to get to the box it looks like the switch wire is not hooked up.thanks for you help
could i use this same remote start for a 90 sierra?
Yes definitely, but keep in mind if you have power locks, this one will not control them. Remote start and stop only!
Dear MotoCARR,
i bought a Ready Remote 24921, some years ago, In Atlanta, for my Suzuki Grand Vitara 1999, engine H25A, V6 automatic transmission, 4wd. When I arrived back to my home in Paraguay, I checked the unit in order to start installation. I could see that it came without remote controller. Also I could not get wiring diagram from web page. I was many months writing emails to manufacturer without success. Finally, some years later I could buy a replacement remote controller and I got a link for access to wiring to my car, for 7 days. Wiring shows some connections. Not all them. Now, lost my job, I am trying to install it but again I get stopped because of missing information.
I got a list from web which I printed. "DIRECTWIRE WIRING INFORMATION-SUZUKI / GRAND VITARA / 1999 / Remote Start. There are many items that are not related to Ready Remote installation manual connectors description.
The kit is described as "Do it yourself". Later, from vendor and manufacturer I am pushed to request a "professional installer".
I am electronic technician and I have installed many accessories in my car. I am blocked of device information from manufacturer.
I have insisted many times but they do not answer. Their page also shows many brands and they do not give the necessary informations. Can you please give some informations of wiring for my car?
Thank you very much.
Best regards,
Christian Larson
Asuncion, Paraguay.
email. larsonchristian2@gmail.com
Sorry to hear about your job loss! I just sent you an email containing the wiring guide for your vehicle, let me know what questions you may have and I will do my best to answer them! -Julian
MotoCARR
Dear Julian. I got your emails. Thank you so much. You have answered my questions within minutes with all the information I could not get from manufacturer in years.
I really appreciate so much your kind help and your mind to help others. That's a quality mind of person and company. Thank you !!!!
@@christianlarson5361 glad we were able to get it sorted out for you! :-)
MotoCARR THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!
Will this work for a diesel ?
Yes it should. There is a programming menu feature called "Diesel wait to start timer" which is the amount of time the remote start will wait after activation before it will try to start.
MotoCARR ok sweet thank you I’m gonna give it a try !
How can I get a wire diagram for a 2002 Grand caravan
Albertino Gomes shoot an email to refinedperformance@gmail.com and I can send one.
MotoCARR Online Albertino284@Gmail.com
how will you program this starter??
Jose Velarde it is already preprogrammed. All you have to do is change features or options to your liking. Depending on your car, you may have to program an ignition immobilized bypass
And how can I do that is a Honda Accord 98
I have to reprogram it again because now the key has a new chip
Jose Velarde you need to find out who makes the brand of the ignition immobilized bypass. A lot of them require you to reflash the module from a laptop with special software and a tool, it can't be done on your own.
But, if you just got a replacement key, I don't think your module needs to be reflashed.
it seems who ever install this didn't put the valet button
I replaced my battery and it still isn’t starting.?
What year/make/model/trim are you installing it in?
Mine is exactly like this i couldnt get the co. to give me any help they said watch the vid .your vid is 1000 time better than thiers.does the large diameter wires all connect o large wires or do some connect to smallerwires .i have a 01 s10 ,,very basic no special key auto trans .i still quit and give up .ive done my wives car much simpler brand of starter
Dent Tech on your S10 for the most part the big thick wires on your remote start will go to the thick wires in the truck. Shoot me an email to refinedperformance@gmail.com and I can send you a wire sheet if you need.
Thanks you saved my A%$ !!
After remote start, car will shut off when door is opened...? anyone?
Alex Szalontai year/make/model of the vehicle?