One thing I have found very interesting has been the growing number of viewers that have so much knowledge. Too often when you retire or even the people you work with are not interested in what you know or knew. You have opened a new world for them. Thank you for being patient with us as we learn or share what we know.
If ETR wants a second piece of rolling stock there is an old riveted tank car for sale on Gov Planet. The rail car is in Lewistown, PA. setting on a 42 ft. section of rail. It evidently was used for EMS training. The bid is at 10 bucks with 8 days to go.
Win it for $21 dollars, move it for $16,831 Sadly lots of really neat RR stuff is lost due to cost of relocation. Even if on connected rails, a car must meet current FRA standards to go anywhere.. Its a difficult time for preservationists.. poor money supply and high costs😪.
@@jenniferwhitewolf3784 Not exactly. Things can be moved on a one time exemption to a home shop. But if a Class 1 is involved in the move, it is up to them if they are willing to allow it. As the tank car is of riveted construction, it likely has friction bearings and also cast iron wheels. Which means that the maximum speed it could be moved at is walking speed. It would be simpler to move it by taking a pair of roller bearing trucks and swapping them out for the move. If the brakes work, then the RR would likely let it move. But either way it will have to start its journey by truck as there is no rail connection so it might a well stay on the truck.
Thanks for posting this and all your videos. I enjoy learning all the ins and outs of how things work and how to diagnose and repair things. After all these years of watching RUclips, I have gained my RUclips Certification in Auto repair, Lawn Care, Electrical wiring, Bridge building and now I'm working toward Railroad operations thanks to your video series. After I get this certification, I'm going to move on to either Brain surgery or International spying. Keep up the good work.
I have been a subscriber for about a week now and I just finished watch all the videos on the ERR channel. My apartment complex is across the street from the new Brightline double tracking work they are doing from West Palm Beach to Coco Beach Fl.. That caused me to renew my childhood interest in trains and now I'm hooked on youtube videos about the subject. I'm thinking with the shortage of truck drives and the roads reaching compacity in many parts of the country that rail is the answer to those problems. Here's to a bright future to the East Terminal Raiway!!!
MJJ Thank you so much! You and I are kindred spirits. My little bit of experience with the Brightline Project is in Melbourne Fla. I left Mrs ETR in the French bakery and went and watch the crews working. They were driving pile to build the new bridge on. And I watch the Miami Fla Cam that looks at the FEC lift bridge. Brian
@@eastterminalrailway5975 Do you know about the Coco Beach Cameras at Virtual Railfan? That area is being triple tracked. They installed three of the four rails this morning.
Just a little terminology correction, because a lot of people say the same thing, bees don't bite, they sting. Biting is done with the mouth, a bee's stinger is on the opposite end of it's body. If it bit you, you wouldn't swell up and the bee wouldn't die. The stinger injects venom under the skin and is barbed, which is why it is ripped off of the bee's body and the bee dies. The part of the bee that comes off with the stinger continues to pump venom even after it is no longer attached to the bee.
Maybe a longer term idea to protect those gauges is a thick piece of plexiglass on some standoffs and cut around your buttons and switches. That way you won't need to take it on and off for operation and still have protection.
Now what that's a great way to start the day! Locomotive operation and tuning 101.0! Interesting comment by Bradley Smith. Nothing turns out to be simple, but we are all learning and that is good! Thanks Brian for holding class.
For future reference when adjusting double ended clevises, loosen both locknuts and turn the rod. It avoids disassembly and makes adjustments "on the fly" easy.
That assumes that both clevises were installed to the same depth of thread in the beginning and were always adjusted as you described. Looks like one end has bottomed out on threads here.
That also implies that either there are a left and right hand thread on the rod or that the rod has two different thread counts per inch. Otherwise turning the rod just moves it the same distance in on one end and out on the other with no change in length between centers of the clevis pin holes.
I was in the US merchant Marine before I retired. I worked in a UK ship the day the Diesel powered container ship ship was put under US flag. When we enters the control room to take over from the British crew, we found a tea pot so big it looked like a miniature boiler! “ I thought this was a diesel ship we were getting but I see Fromm the boiler it was a steam ship some one quipped. The Chief engineer, without Any permission from the Coast Guard or ABS our insurance company inspectors, converted the ship From Tea to Coffee powered as God intended. Half the officers were from Massachusetts and the said it was tradition to pour British tea into the sea, Not drink it!!
If you ever decide to build a shed for your locomotive, I just built one myself. You and your son could do the same easily, and have it done in plenty of time to work on your locomotive indoors next year - but better than that, it will give you a place to store tools and equipment and keep your locomotive safe! I have the build process start to finish (or nearly so, it will be finished later this week). Maybe you could use it as a repair shop for other peoples rolling stock as well! Really love the restoration stuff, hopefully you can do that year-round at some point!
The shed is a nice idea but getting the track inspected and open to accept cars will generate revenue. The way to make money comes first, then the other things in due time as money allows.
Yah and didn't build them to break or planned obsolescence either....Just like my Dad's Sears Grinder, I use it periodically n it eorks, it just works😎 I started using that Grinder in the 1970's........It's heavy not Plastic, the motor is just as stable as when it was new!
Remember your power generation is directly related to field intensity and speed of cut, so it’s possible you might want that rpm back once you start shuffling cars around. Love the channel. My best to everyone.
Slow brain day for me, after watching you pull the pin twice and rotate one end, it occurred to me that it is probably a turnbuckle arrangement and you could just rotate the rod and 1) save time over connecting and disconnecting the end; 2) have a finer adjustment of the length of the linkage as you would then have finer fractional movement between the half and full turn available with freeing one end of the linkage. Keep up the great work.
You need a first aid kit on the engine. When my hubby was working at Ky Railway Museum as a volunteer there, it was mandatory on the engines and all rolling stock. Love the channel, bought the shirt and stickers. Be safe and HIGH-BALL to ETR !
You should weld together a cover that you could latch and lock over the control panel. It’d look nicer than and be easier than the wood and screw getup you have there.
I really enjoy your tutorial videos on railroading basics - please keep them coming. The nuts and bolts of railroading are fascinating to me and probably most of your viewers. Keep up the good work with this channel.
Very interesting, really enjoy watching you work on the locomotive. My grandfather was an engineer for the Baltimore and Ohio back in the days of steam.
Another great video. I was thankful you didnt come back into the cab with both eyes swelled shut and your lips blue after the bee sting. Damn bees. Ours are dead here as we got 5 inches of heavy snow yesterday. Keep em coming.
Honeybees do die after they sting but only sting in defense of their hive or themselves. If you got stung it was more likely a wasp and they can keep on stinging.
I think it's the yellow jackets that die after stinging someone. Apparently there's a Barb on the back of their stinger when they go to pull their stinger out they instead rip half their body off
@@dmp9135 Nope, that is Bees. Yellow Jackets can sting and sting again. And they also can take a chunk out of you when they sting as they do not lose their stinger. And they can pump more venom into you than a Bee can so it hurts longer and swells more.
Hi there. Thanks for your nod towards your British followers and yes, hooligans is the right term. Keep up the good work and we will keep watching over on this side of the pond
May i suggest installing hinges on the top of the guage box and then install ur board to the hinges .. place a pad lock at the bottem. Then when u want to use it. Unlock and fold up ready to go..
U-TURN logistics brought me your way Buckeye steel: helped build a small paint booth on the south side of that place in 2000 Great vidjeo !!! Interesting 🤔
I just want to thank you for sharing this part of your life. You are an inspiration to me, causing my confidence to take risk and be a go getter. I look to you and Graham as mentors even though we have never met. Your demeanor, your calmness, peace of mind and heart show me where my rough edges are, or at least start. God bless you in all you do! Merry Christmas and a Happy and very Prosperous New Year!
Mike I really appreciate you sharing this with me. More than some assorted RR knowledge, I would love to pass on encouragement! The root word in encourage is " courage".... Mike , you Can accomplish more than you think you can. Thanks so much for your friendship. Brian
The Center cab GE industrial locomotives operate differently from road type locomotives. On the road locomotives, the throttle is electric and has 8 run positions, plus idle and stop. In each of the run positions, one or more of a total of 4 solenoid valves is opened on the hydraulic engine Governor. This changes the Governor speed setting, increasing governed speed as the throttle moves from run 2 to run 8. At each throttle setting 1 through 8 a hydraulically operated load regulator moves to increase the electrical excitation voltage to the main generator. The load regulator will increase loading on the generator until a slight decrease in the engine rpm is sensed, at which point it stops loading. The load on the generator is controlled by the load regulator in this manner by increasing or decreasing the excitation. As the throttle is moved to higher notches, the load regulator will readjust to place as much load on the generator as it will accept at that engine speed. Same thing as the throttle is closed, the load regulator will unload the generator to allow the engine to run at governed speed. Run 1 position is unique, in that the engine is at idle speed, but the load regulator is activated and will add load to the main generator while the engine remains at idle speed. In operation, there is a significant lag between opening of the throttle ( going up higher in notches) and the locomotive actually moving. New engineers have to learn patience to keep from constantly switching the throttle up and down and to make slower changes, letting the load regulator react to each setting. Some locomotives have a switch on the control stand that gives the load regulator a “boost” resulting in faster loading response. This is for switching, when it’s advantageous to be able to quickly shuttle forward and reverse. That can really speed up making up cuts of cars. I had a GP15 once that was equipped with the “switching” switch. You could really move some cars with that loco. The GE center cab locomotives are much more simple. Each engine has a mechanical Governor, and there is no load regulator. Instead the excitation voltage on each generator is a function of the inherent sag in voltage caused by the traction motor current draw. The main generators are shunt wound ( armature and field coils in series) so it works that way.
Not at all true of all road engines. Baldwin had air operated controls on theirs. ALCo RS-1s/RSD-1s had strictly mechanical controls if they weren't MU capable. ALCo also did not control their engine speed by that method on the RS-3s as it was electrically controlled. Shunt wound is not that way either. That is series wound. Shunt wound motors have the coils in parallel. Same with generators that are shunt wound. In a shunt wound motor or generator the coils of both see the same Voltage applied with two ends getting positive and two ends getting negative. In a series motor or generator, one armature end will be positive and on field end being negative with a connection being shared at a common point.
@@gravelydon7072 you are correct on series vs shunt winding, I misspoke. I was merely making a. Comparison of road engines of the same era vs the GE industrials. The Baldwin and early Alco’s predated the AAR control stand. And obviously locomotives with AC alternators , AC driven locomotives are different.
@@billmoran3812 I've operated an RS-1 with a GP-38-2 control system. I'd much rather have one with the older mechanical one as you can set the notchless throttle right where you need it for your power needs.
You could pretty easily fabricate (weld) a metal cover plate for the guages. Add some U-Bolts sticking up out of the top surface of the gauge panel (you would drill some holes into the top surface for the U-Bolts to stick up out of). You may also need another U-Bolt sticking out of the bottom vertical surface of the gauge panel (basically below the gauges). Then cut some slots into the metal cover plate so that the slots fit over the U-bolts, and you can then put padlocks through the U-bolts, locking the metal plate cover over top of the gauge panel. ETA: I see that I am not the first to suggest this.
@@eastterminalrailway5975 Hey Boss, I worked for a small town as their mechanic, welder, fabricator and what ever else that was needed to be done. Our fleet included larger trucks like dumps all the way down to park equipment. My least favorite to work on was the newer very complex vehicles, especially police cars. By the time I retired all my years of experience and my worn out body were not quite meeting up to the challenges of those newer rigs. It took information and advanced diagnostic equipment that we didn’t have. Bring something in with chunks falling off or dragging on the ground and I could fix it! I do enjoy being involved with the ETR and I’m learning about railroad equipment which I enjoy. You are a good entertaining mentor Brian, keep up the good work! John
You talked about moving cars soon. Is there any type of inspection you need to do periodically on the couplers? I’m really enjoying learning about how locomotives work. After the hooligans struck, I gave you a shout out on my channel and encouraged people to buy some merchandise. Looks like your precautions are working well so far. Stay safe!
Knuckles wear, and can break. Knuckle pins also. I've seen whole drawbars come out of cars, I assume it happens to locomotives as well. Side to side wear (from going through turnouts, switches, and curves) can cause the drawbar to droop, and make it difficult to couple up. Watch for signs of wear (Obvious or by excessive movement) is about all you can do.
This was like a "Mr. Rogers" episode. A couple minutes would have covered it. How about a in-depth, meat and potatoes, explanation of an electro-motive system?
As far as the ratchet on the hand brake, how far does it actually turn? You can probably loosen the grub screw that locks it to the shaft and rotate the broken tooth to the back where it is never used.
Found some pictures from my home town terminal railroad that used to run on industrial tracks there some of the engines were the same as you’re working on
Steven: You are a good man; a nice man; and a patriotic man. Not sure about the rest of you. (HAW-HAW!) Thank you for another educational video. Hope Graham is doing well. PS: I still wish you had obtained an SW8. But, it's okay..........
You mentioned bees and also it seems like I saw a fair number of bees in the video itself - makes me wonder if you've got a hive being built in the loco somewhere. Could have also been flies but hard to tell in the video!
Devon That was your annual vision test, and you passed easily! There are flies in the cab because it was at a grain terminal and needs swept out. You are an eagle eye. Brian
GET A BIT HOLDER, WRAP A WIRE AROUND IR AND ZAP IT ACROSS A BATTERY TO MAGNETIZE IT. BITS CHANGE IN A FLASH AND SCREWS REMAIN ATTACHED. PUTTING THEM BACK IS EASIER, TOO.
Memory (not always that accurate ...) tells me you have it right. First 'notch' should excite and put the electrical on line without increasing the engine speed. Otherwise, it would be like revving up your pickup and dropping it in gear. May not hurt anything while it's just the engine, but trying to start a cut of cars like that would probably mean drive chain repairs at minimum. Have you got, or found, any reading material on that unit? I'm curious to see what it's specifications are, and see how it compares to the MP/SW units I'm more familiar with.
How much power does your loco generate at tick-over? Most modern diesel electrics need to rev up quite a bit before they can even think about moving. This is because they are relatively small and under-powered, high-reving engines.
You might want to give it another turn as in most cases, locos with manual controls were setup for the contactor to come in first with the engine at idle and then increase the engine speed. And as Bradley says below, when you have loads, you may want to change it to where you have an RPM increase before the load contactor comes in. Depends on if you see a sharp drop in RPM when a load is applied.
New gear cog can be made by welding. Control panel cover can be made by welding a "L" angle iron on each side for a slide up and out steel cover plate that can be padlocked. My H2O pressure washer would make a good clean up on that engine and diesels. It does 3600 lbs pressure. All you need is a Pallet tote or two of water and a generator.
DUDEZILLA! Just throwin' this out there for you to chew on...... Have you thought about making a day or two where some of subscribers can come and help you strip and possibly paint your loco? I have friends and family in your area that I can stay a night or two with and I could come over and do some work...... Let me know and I will bring my grinder and stuff and get to work....
When you're running the unit by itself - no cars, you should be using the independent brake instead of the train brakes, referred to as the automatic brake these days. The independent handle will apply the locomotive brakes a bit faster than the automatic brake handle does. Also, you can just use the independent brake when moving just one car or two without any issues. You need the train brakes (automatic) when you have several cars, especially if they're loaded cars and it's all heavier than the locomotive is and too much for it to stop by itself.
East Terminal railway You're welcome, I don't know if you knew that already or not, but thought I'd throw it out there after I saw you move the big brake handle while moving the unit. I'm pretty sure it's called the automatic brake because it applies and releases all of the brakes for the whole train with just the single handle. I'm 5 years from retiring from a locomotive shop repairing them.
Ah, that takes all the fun out of moving a string of cars if the air is hooked up. Max I ever was involved with was 23 cars without air and an SW1200 for power. You don't worry about hooking the air up if you need to move the cars out of the way of a fire.
@@eastterminalrailway5975 Hopefully. They do hump and flat switch cars all the time and they seem to roll just fine without air on them. But, they’re not popping the train line air when they do that, they begin the operation with no air on the train, just using engine brakes for switching or humping.
Would you mind telling us subscribers where you are located? I would , and I am sure there are others, would like to know where and how to locate you for a friendly visit. I cannot locate you in or near Cincinnati or Columbus,Oh. It may be confusing among web sites.
What you've done is good for light engine, but I would imagine you'd want more revs before engaging that contactor so you don't stall when you're pulling big amps moving cars around.
One thing I have found very interesting has been the growing number of viewers that have so much knowledge. Too often when you retire or even the people you work with are not interested in what you know or knew. You have opened a new world for them. Thank you for being patient with us as we learn or share what we know.
Well said John, thanks for being an important part of the ETR Nation! Brian
Greetings from the UK. Good choice of hot beverage in a fine mug. Remember no taxation without representation. Many thanks for another good video.
If ETR wants a second piece of rolling stock there is an old riveted tank car for sale on Gov Planet. The rail car is in Lewistown, PA. setting on a 42 ft. section of rail. It evidently was used for EMS training. The bid is at 10 bucks with 8 days to go.
Win it for $21 dollars, move it for $16,831 Sadly lots of really neat RR stuff is lost due to cost of relocation. Even if on connected rails, a car must meet current FRA standards to go anywhere.. Its a difficult time for preservationists.. poor money supply and high costs😪.
@@jenniferwhitewolf3784 Not exactly. Things can be moved on a one time exemption to a home shop. But if a Class 1 is involved in the move, it is up to them if they are willing to allow it. As the tank car is of riveted construction, it likely has friction bearings and also cast iron wheels. Which means that the maximum speed it could be moved at is walking speed. It would be simpler to move it by taking a pair of roller bearing trucks and swapping them out for the move. If the brakes work, then the RR would likely let it move. But either way it will have to start its journey by truck as there is no rail connection so it might a well stay on the truck.
@@jenniferwhitewolf3784 I agree!
Thanks for posting this and all your videos. I enjoy learning all the ins and outs of how things work and how to diagnose and repair things. After all these years of watching RUclips, I have gained my RUclips Certification in Auto repair, Lawn Care, Electrical wiring, Bridge building and now I'm working toward Railroad operations thanks to your video series. After I get this certification, I'm going to move on to either Brain surgery or International spying. Keep up the good work.
Wonderful to watch, Old U.S. C.G. Engineer 20 years, still playing w/ engines, Motors, of all kinds @ 77 years young... Happy rails....
Hard to believe it's been a year since you and Graham took the NesTea plunge and built up to this. Carry on, fellow railroaders!
Thanks George! Yes time flies. B.
Can't wait to see you start the actual restoration (or at least repainting) of the 2021. Cab interior first of course Brian.
And Brian, don't forget cup holders too.
LoL Man after my own heart! Brian
I have been a subscriber for about a week now and I just finished watch all the videos on the ERR channel. My apartment complex is across the street from the new Brightline double tracking work they are doing from West Palm Beach to Coco Beach Fl.. That caused me to renew my childhood interest in trains and now I'm hooked on youtube videos about the subject. I'm thinking with the shortage of truck drives and the roads reaching compacity in many parts of the country that rail is the answer to those problems. Here's to a bright future to the East Terminal Raiway!!!
MJJ Thank you so much! You and I are kindred spirits. My little bit of experience with the Brightline Project is in Melbourne Fla. I left Mrs ETR in the French bakery and went and watch the crews working. They were driving pile to build the new bridge on.
And I watch the Miami Fla Cam that looks at the FEC lift bridge. Brian
@@eastterminalrailway5975 Do you know about the Coco Beach Cameras at Virtual Railfan? That area is being triple tracked. They installed three of the four rails this morning.
Just a little terminology correction, because a lot of people say the same thing, bees don't bite, they sting. Biting is done with the mouth, a bee's stinger is on the opposite end of it's body. If it bit you, you wouldn't swell up and the bee wouldn't die. The stinger injects venom under the skin and is barbed, which is why it is ripped off of the bee's body and the bee dies. The part of the bee that comes off with the stinger continues to pump venom even after it is no longer attached to the bee.
Dave you are right, just in the moment most people say bit. Good catch. Brian
Maybe a longer term idea to protect those gauges is a thick piece of plexiglass on some standoffs and cut around your buttons and switches. That way you won't need to take it on and off for operation and still have protection.
also a mini motion sensor cam.
Enjoy learning about the operation of the engine and the railroad. well done.
Now what that's a great way to start the day! Locomotive operation and tuning 101.0! Interesting comment by Bradley Smith. Nothing turns out to be simple, but we are all learning and that is good! Thanks Brian for holding class.
For future reference when adjusting double ended clevises, loosen both locknuts and turn the rod. It avoids disassembly and makes adjustments "on the fly" easy.
Skip I'll look, you have obviously turned a wrench or two. Brian
That assumes that both clevises were installed to the same depth of thread in the beginning and were always adjusted as you described.
Looks like one end has bottomed out on threads here.
That also implies that either there are a left and right hand thread on the rod or that the rod has two different thread counts per inch. Otherwise turning the rod just moves it the same distance in on one end and out on the other with no change in length between centers of the clevis pin holes.
The UK Railways are fuelled by Tea, without Tea the trains would come to a grinding halt :) :D
I was in the US merchant Marine before I retired.
I worked in a UK ship the day the Diesel powered container ship ship was put under US flag.
When we enters the control room to take over from the British crew, we found a tea pot so big it looked like a miniature boiler!
“ I thought this was a diesel ship we were getting but I see Fromm the boiler it was a steam ship some one quipped.
The Chief engineer, without Any permission from the Coast Guard or ABS our insurance company inspectors, converted the ship
From Tea to Coffee powered as God intended.
Half the officers were from Massachusetts and the said it was tradition to pour British tea into the sea, Not drink it!!
And biscuits. Don't forget the biscuits.
Not being ‘British’… I’m Scottish, we drink coffee in Scotland 🏴🏴🏴🏴
If you ever decide to build a shed for your locomotive, I just built one myself. You and your son could do the same easily, and have it done in plenty of time to work on your locomotive indoors next year - but better than that, it will give you a place to store tools and equipment and keep your locomotive safe! I have the build process start to finish (or nearly so, it will be finished later this week). Maybe you could use it as a repair shop for other peoples rolling stock as well! Really love the restoration stuff, hopefully you can do that year-round at some point!
If you have 2 or more engines....the shed is called a "round house" with a turntable.
@@dajones1128 Switched track will work, don't need a turntable.
@@johnbaskett2309 Correct 😊
I like the shed idea. Once the locomotive is all cleaned up, it would be good to keep it safe and secure.
The shed is a nice idea but getting the track inspected and open to accept cars will generate revenue. The way to make money comes first, then the other things in due time as money allows.
Years ago, I had a tour of Buckeye Steel Casting in Columbus, OH when it was still in operation. It was a fabulous place. I saw casting in progress.
Another great video! This will be a g super railroad when you get it up and running! Love the old engine, they sure built things to last back then.
Yah and didn't build them to break or planned obsolescence either....Just like my Dad's Sears Grinder, I use it periodically n it eorks, it just works😎
I started using that Grinder in the 1970's........It's heavy not Plastic, the motor is just as stable as when it was new!
Remember your power generation is directly related to field intensity and speed of cut, so it’s possible you might want that rpm back once you start shuffling cars around. Love the channel. My best to everyone.
Sheet rock screws are a wonderful invention along with the battery powered drill
Well said Sir! Our house has lath and plaster, the dry wall screws are THE BEST way to hang anything! Made my life better. MK1 (Ret)
Thank you both for your service!
Cheers!
Whipple
if i had this my wife would never get me out of it! ....just going back and forth all day and night lol.
Slow brain day for me, after watching you pull the pin twice and rotate one end, it occurred to me that it is probably a turnbuckle arrangement and you could just rotate the rod and 1) save time over connecting and disconnecting the end; 2) have a finer adjustment of the length of the linkage as you would then have finer fractional movement between the half and full turn available with freeing one end of the linkage. Keep up the great work.
Tony Ill look, to see if it has left hand treads on one end, good question. Brian
You need a first aid kit on the engine. When my hubby was working at Ky Railway Museum as a volunteer there, it was mandatory on the engines and all rolling stock. Love the channel, bought the shirt and stickers. Be safe and HIGH-BALL to ETR !
And it needs to include sting kill.
Felisha Good idea, can you serve on the safety committee? Brian
You should weld together a cover that you could latch and lock over the control panel. It’d look nicer than and be easier than the wood and screw getup you have there.
Five String You are right, I did that wood monstrosity in a hurry with the sun setting. Brian
@@eastterminalrailway5975
I figured it was a quick fix.
It’s a shame that you have to do it in the first place.
You are an amazing instructor of old school technology. Please keep up the amazing videos.
No not England, UK or GB don't forget the Welsh, Irish, and Scots. Thank you for the content from Glasgow Scotland UK.
Billy Ya'all are fellow learners at the ETR University. Brian
Great video as always! I enjoy learning about the mechanical stuff.
I really enjoy your tutorial videos on railroading basics - please keep them coming. The nuts and bolts of railroading are fascinating to me and probably most of your viewers. Keep up the good work with this channel.
Very interesting, really enjoy watching you work on the locomotive. My grandfather was an engineer for the Baltimore and Ohio back in the days of steam.
As always an enjoyable bit of railroading history and new to our generation, how to operate a diesel electrical locomotive👍👍👍👍👍.
You are a good instructor, good luck with your dreams. Also thank you for dragging us along with you.
Yankee You are a blast to be around, happy to have you. Brian
bee's sting you ..they don't bite ...love what your doing keep up the awesome work !
Peter I didn't see sting me, but it itched for days! Brian
20k . Wow . Got here here before there was 20 ppl . Crazy how fast it has grown. Congrats guys
Heith Thanks for following, you are a plank owner on the channel. Brian
Another great video. I was thankful you didnt come back into the cab with both eyes swelled shut and your lips blue after the bee sting. Damn bees. Ours are dead here as we got 5 inches of heavy snow yesterday. Keep em coming.
Enjoyed this video of "Operating an Old Locomotive" lesson 101. Thanks teach!
Honeybees do die after they sting but only sting in defense of their hive or themselves.
If you got stung it was more likely a wasp and they can keep on stinging.
I think it's the yellow jackets that die after stinging someone. Apparently there's a Barb on the back of their stinger when they go to pull their stinger out they instead rip half their body off
@@dmp9135 Nope, that is Bees. Yellow Jackets can sting and sting again. And they also can take a chunk out of you when they sting as they do not lose their stinger. And they can pump more venom into you than a Bee can so it hurts longer and swells more.
Safety wants to know if you have a first aid kit on board for bee stings and other mishaps!
Duct tape and a blue shop rag.
Since we're doing things together....let's clean that locomotive dirty control room. Great video and I love the shirt!
FG When I looked around in there I was embarrassed. I get that done, it bugged me too. B.
Wow lots of cool facts. Thanks for sharing. LJL
That engine really sounds good.
Hi there. Thanks for your nod towards your British followers and yes, hooligans is the right term. Keep up the good work and we will keep watching over on this side of the pond
Thank you, that means alot to me! Brian
Hooligans or yobbos. You can always spot them, as they don’t drink tea.
Its always fun learning more about this stuff 👍
Thank you for sharing. Just to let you know as a student that I was paying attention.
Grades come out soon, keep up the good work!
Excellent informative video. From all of us "Limeys", have a strong cup of Earl Grey.
Andy I am about to watch "Chopped" ( cooking show) with Mrs ETR, I'll put the kettle on and surprise her with some E.G. Good call! B.
May i suggest installing hinges on the top of the guage box and then install ur board to the hinges .. place a pad lock at the bottem. Then when u want to use it. Unlock and fold up ready to go..
Will the hard hats be available to purchase?
I got one of your sweat shirt hoodies and the big travel mug. Love both of them.
Greg Thanks for letting me know, You are a valued member of the ETR team. Brian
U-TURN logistics brought me your way
Buckeye steel: helped build a small paint booth on the south side of that place in 2000
Great vidjeo !!!
Interesting 🤔
Thank You Weed! Happy to have you aboard! Brian
I would love to see the whole track from the mainline, to the end of track. Maybe a cab ride view, or from the cart.
Great video. I love how these old locomotives work.
Interesting and enjoyable video. Thanks for posting .
Thanks for the postcard!! Deb from Vermont
Deb I meant every word, thank you so much. Brian
Love your tutorial videos! Keep 'em coming.
Very interesting! It's finally making some sense how things work! Thanks for another great video!
You have to love those General Electrics from Erie, Pennsylvania!
I just want to thank you for sharing this part of your life. You are an inspiration to me, causing my confidence to take risk and be a go getter. I look to you and Graham as mentors even though we have never met. Your demeanor, your calmness, peace of mind and heart show me where my rough edges are, or at least start. God bless you in all you do! Merry Christmas and a Happy and very Prosperous New Year!
Mike I really appreciate you sharing this with me. More than some assorted RR knowledge, I would love to pass on encouragement! The root word in encourage is " courage".... Mike , you Can accomplish more than you think you can.
Thanks so much for your friendship. Brian
The Center cab GE industrial locomotives operate differently from road type locomotives. On the road locomotives, the throttle is electric and has 8 run positions, plus idle and stop.
In each of the run positions, one or more of a total of 4 solenoid valves is opened on the hydraulic engine Governor. This changes the Governor speed setting, increasing governed speed as the throttle moves from run 2 to run 8.
At each throttle setting 1 through 8 a hydraulically operated load regulator moves to increase the electrical excitation voltage to the main generator. The load regulator will increase loading on the generator until a slight decrease in the engine rpm is sensed, at which point it stops loading. The load on the generator is controlled by the load regulator in this manner by increasing or decreasing the excitation.
As the throttle is moved to higher notches, the load regulator will readjust to place as much load on the generator as it will accept at that engine speed.
Same thing as the throttle is closed, the load regulator will unload the generator to allow the engine to run at governed speed.
Run 1 position is unique, in that the engine is at idle speed, but the load regulator is activated and will add load to the main generator while the engine remains at idle speed.
In operation, there is a significant lag between opening of the throttle ( going up higher in notches) and the locomotive actually moving. New engineers have to learn patience to keep from constantly switching the throttle up and down and to make slower changes, letting the load regulator react to each setting.
Some locomotives have a switch on the control stand that gives the load regulator a “boost” resulting in faster loading response. This is for switching, when it’s advantageous to be able to quickly shuttle forward and reverse. That can really speed up making up cuts of cars. I had a GP15 once that was equipped with the “switching” switch. You could really move some cars with that loco.
The GE center cab locomotives are much more simple. Each engine has a mechanical Governor, and there is no load regulator. Instead the excitation voltage on each generator is a function of the inherent sag in voltage caused by the traction motor current draw. The main generators are shunt wound ( armature and field coils in series) so it works that way.
Not at all true of all road engines. Baldwin had air operated controls on theirs. ALCo RS-1s/RSD-1s had strictly mechanical controls if they weren't MU capable. ALCo also did not control their engine speed by that method on the RS-3s as it was electrically controlled. Shunt wound is not that way either. That is series wound. Shunt wound motors have the coils in parallel. Same with generators that are shunt wound. In a shunt wound motor or generator the coils of both see the same Voltage applied with two ends getting positive and two ends getting negative. In a series motor or generator, one armature end will be positive and on field end being negative with a connection being shared at a common point.
@@gravelydon7072 you are correct on series vs shunt winding, I misspoke. I was merely making a. Comparison of road engines of the same era vs the GE industrials. The Baldwin and early Alco’s predated the AAR control stand. And obviously locomotives with AC alternators , AC driven locomotives are different.
@@billmoran3812 I've operated an RS-1 with a GP-38-2 control system. I'd much rather have one with the older mechanical one as you can set the notchless throttle right where you need it for your power needs.
Excellent video, Brian.
You could pretty easily fabricate (weld) a metal cover plate for the guages. Add some U-Bolts sticking up out of the top surface of the gauge panel (you would drill some holes into the top surface for the U-Bolts to stick up out of). You may also need another U-Bolt sticking out of the bottom vertical surface of the gauge panel (basically below the gauges). Then cut some slots into the metal cover plate so that the slots fit over the U-bolts, and you can then put padlocks through the U-bolts, locking the metal plate cover over top of the gauge panel. ETA: I see that I am not the first to suggest this.
Very interesting class Brian, thank you. As an old retired mechanic I find the nuts & bolts of what you do fun to watch.
John
John What did you work on? Brian
@@eastterminalrailway5975
Hey Boss, I worked for a small town as their mechanic, welder, fabricator and what ever else that was needed to be done. Our fleet included larger trucks like dumps all the way down to park equipment. My least favorite to work on was the newer very complex vehicles, especially police cars. By the time I retired all my years of experience and my worn out body were not quite meeting up to the challenges of those newer rigs. It took information and advanced diagnostic equipment that we didn’t have. Bring something in with chunks falling off or dragging on the ground and I could fix it! I do enjoy being involved with the ETR and I’m learning about railroad equipment which I enjoy.
You are a good entertaining mentor Brian, keep up the good work!
John
Awesome video!!! Thanks for sharing!
Holy Flies, Batman! Great video, Mr. East Terminal Railway Hefe!
You talked about moving cars soon. Is there any type of inspection you need to do periodically on the couplers?
I’m really enjoying learning about how locomotives work. After the hooligans struck, I gave you a shout out on my channel and encouraged people to buy some merchandise. Looks like your precautions are working well so far. Stay safe!
Knuckles wear, and can break. Knuckle pins also. I've seen whole drawbars come out of cars, I assume it happens to locomotives as well. Side to side wear (from going through turnouts, switches, and curves) can cause the drawbar to droop, and make it difficult to couple up. Watch for signs of wear (Obvious or by excessive movement) is about all you can do.
Thom Nice info! Thanks for jumping in. Brian
If you guys are concerned about safety, it's best to get some game cams that can take a phone card and stream the video right to you..
Good content. Thanks “Steve”.
Good morning to all from SE Louisiana 5 Dec 21.
This was like a "Mr. Rogers" episode. A couple minutes would have covered it. How about a in-depth, meat and potatoes, explanation of an electro-motive system?
Awesome video 😎
As far as the ratchet on the hand brake, how far does it actually turn? You can probably loosen the grub screw that locks it to the shaft and rotate the broken tooth to the back where it is never used.
Dave This video brought up lots of good questions, there is another, I'll check on that set screw. Brian
That was a good video. It was neat to see the engine move and how some of the technical stuff works.
Awesome videos!!! It might be easier to show everything if you shop vac'd the cab.
128 That is next, should have done it sooner, but I don't mind the nudge! Brian
Great video 🚄👍
Genuine American patriot's at the East Terminal railway 🚂 👍
Found some pictures from my home town terminal railroad that used to run on industrial tracks there some of the engines were the same as you’re working on
I will sweep the floor for a cup of tea.
Tony I've been told to do it. B.
Steven: You are a good man; a nice man; and a patriotic man. Not sure about the rest of you. (HAW-HAW!) Thank you for another educational video. Hope Graham is doing well. PS: I still wish you had obtained an SW8. But, it's okay..........
Mike I make up for not being real sharp by being nice! I know what hand I was delt! Brian P.S. don't tell anyone, but they probably already know.
@@eastterminalrailway5975 Well, you''re my #1 guy. Love the videos. Hope you all can keep progressing.
Cool. Safe travels up your way
Thanks Ken! And thanks for following the ETR! Brian
You mentioned bees and also it seems like I saw a fair number of bees in the video itself - makes me wonder if you've got a hive being built in the loco somewhere. Could have also been flies but hard to tell in the video!
Devon That was your annual vision test, and you passed easily! There are flies in the cab because it was at a grain terminal and needs swept out. You are an eagle eye. Brian
GET A BIT HOLDER, WRAP A WIRE AROUND IR AND ZAP IT ACROSS A BATTERY TO MAGNETIZE IT. BITS CHANGE IN A FLASH AND SCREWS REMAIN ATTACHED. PUTTING THEM BACK IS EASIER, TOO.
Memory (not always that accurate ...) tells me you have it right. First 'notch' should excite and put the electrical on line without increasing the engine speed. Otherwise, it would be like revving up your pickup and dropping it in gear. May not hurt anything while it's just the engine, but trying to start a cut of cars like that would probably mean drive chain repairs at minimum.
Have you got, or found, any reading material on that unit? I'm curious to see what it's specifications are, and see how it compares to the MP/SW units I'm more familiar with.
If I was you, I would set up some trail camera up around the engine
How much power does your loco generate at tick-over? Most modern diesel electrics need to rev up quite a bit before they can even think about moving. This is because they are relatively small and under-powered, high-reving engines.
Still waiting for a track diagram: current and projected. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE? If you build an engine house, where would it be? Thanks 'Steve!'😃
Great question!
@@jeffreygosselin7576 go look at satellite images.
Its coming, hold the horses! I will make it clear and available. I hope that somebody could model it. Brian
Another great video
Glad you enjoyed it Bob! Brian
You might want to give it another turn as in most cases, locos with manual controls were setup for the contactor to come in first with the engine at idle and then increase the engine speed. And as Bradley says below, when you have loads, you may want to change it to where you have an RPM increase before the load contactor comes in. Depends on if you see a sharp drop in RPM when a load is applied.
I am The Roaming Ranger on RUclips... haven't been active in a while... but clue 1 to helping me on my virtual railroad...
Cool
Thanks for following! Brian
New gear cog can be made by welding. Control panel cover can be made by welding a "L" angle iron on each side for a slide up and out steel cover plate that can be padlocked. My H2O pressure washer would make a good clean up on that engine and diesels. It does 3600 lbs pressure. All you need is a Pallet tote or two of water and a generator.
Just laser cut a new piece... Faster and cleaner than welding a tooth.
Merry Christmas.
DUDEZILLA! Just throwin' this out there for you to chew on...... Have you thought about making a day or two where some of subscribers can come and help you strip and possibly paint your loco? I have friends and family in your area that I can stay a night or two with and I could come over and do some work...... Let me know and I will bring my grinder and stuff and get to work....
Thanks Andy! I'll keep that in mind. Brian
Is it Harbor Tea?
When you're running the unit by itself - no cars, you should be using the independent brake instead of the train brakes, referred to as the automatic brake these days. The independent handle will apply the locomotive brakes a bit faster than the automatic brake handle does.
Also, you can just use the independent brake when moving just one car or two without any issues. You need the train brakes (automatic) when you have several cars, especially if they're loaded cars and it's all heavier than the locomotive is and too much for it to stop by itself.
Ralfie Nice explanation. Thanks for the clarity. Brian
East Terminal railway
You're welcome, I don't know if you knew that already or not, but thought I'd throw it out there after I saw you move the big brake handle while moving the unit. I'm pretty sure it's called the automatic brake because it applies and releases all of the brakes for the whole train with just the single handle. I'm 5 years from retiring from a locomotive shop repairing them.
Ah, that takes all the fun out of moving a string of cars if the air is hooked up. Max I ever was involved with was 23 cars without air and an SW1200 for power. You don't worry about hooking the air up if you need to move the cars out of the way of a fire.
My thing is, if something comes uncoupled while rolling , the brakes " automatically ' apply.
@@eastterminalrailway5975
Hopefully. They do hump and flat switch cars all the time and they seem to roll just fine without air on them. But, they’re not popping the train line air when they do that, they begin the operation with no air on the train, just using engine brakes for switching or humping.
Remember, NO Liquids around the Electronics are you’ll be Suspended or Worse, Terminated. 😬👍
Ken I square it up, right away Sir! Brian
Maybe come out after dark and take a little movement of the locomotive and turn the lights on and take a video. I would like to see that
Hey that was very good and very interesting. Thanks 👍👍👍❤️
Not everyone has their own locomotive to play around on.
Is it Earl Grey?
Would you mind telling us subscribers where you are located? I would , and I am sure there are others, would like to know where and how to locate you for
a friendly visit. I cannot locate you in or near Cincinnati or Columbus,Oh. It may be confusing among web sites.
Marv Soon I'll come out with a route map and show our connections etc. Brian
What you've done is good for light engine, but I would imagine you'd want more revs before engaging that contactor so you don't stall when you're pulling big amps moving cars around.
you should use Robertson square drive screws.. defeat any hooligans with confusion.. what the heck type of screw is that..
5:51 Why isn't that link repaired ?
RDF I'll look at that! Brian