ND filter vs No ND Filter (To Photograph a Sun Silhouette)
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
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This is important…
When photographing a Sun Silhouette…
Do you get a better image using a ND filter or without a filter?
Well, you’ll find the answer in this video :)
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This isn’t something I do, I’ve been concentrating on sport and wildlife so the art of long exposures is rarely on my mind. I mainly use PhotoPills to anticipate the light for new locations and to make sure I arrive at the right time. Thanks for stretching my grey matter a bit 😀. I might try to stretch it some more and put your recommendations into practice. Great inspiration!
Thank you James!
For those using the closed captioning, "Andy filter" = ND filter. 😜
Thanks for a great video, guys!
Thank you!
Camera settings from the video are:
No ND: 1/10000s, f22, iso125
ND: 1/1600s, f8, iso100
Looks like good exposure can be achieved with or without an ND filter given the light condition. What's the main contributor to the better definition? F8? I thought diffraction is not that bad at f22.
Good point Gordon!
Probably, f22 is softer than f8. For this reason ND is a nice option.
Thank you for sharing. That was fun.
Thank you!
For me the reason for using an ND filter is to get a longer exposure. The issue here would be that I wouldn’t want the exposure too long because the light is rapidly changing. That might be a look you’re going for.
Thanks for the feedback!
We used the ND filter to subtract light steps because the sunlight is too strong and tends to "eat" the subject. In this case the conditions were not ideal due to the clouds, atmosphere and so on.
You had great atmospheric shooting conditions. One of my favorites for a sunset/sunrise. Thanks for the vid. There is a magnetic variation (True vs magnetic compass. learned in a marine navigation course many years ago) & is different in the longitude degrees depending on the location. Do you think this why the calibration is needed in the AR? Just curious. Thanks foer any replies.
That's a good point... I'll have to ask to Germán... the Developer of PhotoPills :P
@ Thanks for the reply. In my area I notice I have to move a little to my right which is east. I’ll have to pull out one of my old marine charts to see the variation.
The only reason why i'd chose for a ND is to protect the camera sensor, as when it is in the bright sun and in focus, it might burn a hole in your sensor. (I kid you not)
And you protect it just a bit as you make like 100 images.
Thanks for the feedback!
It is true that the filter helps protect! Thank you
Thank you for this video. Great stuff. I too do a lot of silhouette shots like this, this looked like a perfect evening for it because the thin clouds helped filter the sun. I also play with white balance, if there are no clouds then based on the conditions I may adjust to 9900k
Thank you!
Yes, we also prefer to adjust the white balance in the camera. Thank you
May I offer a "why"? (though I'm sure you already know why, and have simplified your video for easier understanding).
Your friend on the right had his camera stopped down to f/22 (no ND filter), and that's going to create an iris hole small enough that diffraction is going to be a factor in sharpness (lots of articles online as to what diffraction is and how it makes your photos soft at small apertures). The rule of thumb (which can, of course, differ for different lenses) is a stop (or two) down from wide open for a lens' optimum sharpness (this is different from _focus_). Your friend on the left had his at f/8, just about right (according to the above "rule").
This is assuming, of course, that the two lenses were of equal quality.
And yes, without an ND, friend-on-the-right was forced to close his aperture and up his shutter speed, to get a good exposure. I assumed he didn't have an ND available (if not, he should get one! And a good one: a bad one can contribute to softness too).
I shoot timelapse (and depend on Photopills, of course!), and thus I always have an ND on in order to make my shutter speeds slow enough to blur out birds. But this has the added advantage of ensuring that I almost never have to close my aperture down far enough to have issues with diffraction (my longest lens is an ancient Sigma 500mm f/4.5, which isn't exactly super-sharp, so I have to do all the tricks to maximise sharpness in my sequences, especially when I put on teleconverters as well :-) ).
Note: it's possible to have your shutter speed _too_ low, and the sun's movement can cause it to slightly blur at the edges. It's usually ok in timelapse (you don't really notice a bit of elongation of the sun, or moon, when it's sped up), but it's a tragedy in stills to lose any sharpness!
Lastly: don't make the mistake I did when I first tried shooting the sun with a long lens. I was shooting at 1000mm (my 500mm and 2x teleconverter), and made the mistake of shooting the sun when it was much higher in the sky (about 2pm). I melted my ND filter (mine sits between lens and camera, it wasn't at the front of the lens). It saved my sensor, but I lost an expensive ND filter. I repeated the same shoot the next day with a solar filter on the front of the lens, which worked _waaay_ better (though everything was pretty orange).
Please keep up the always-awesome videos, I learn something new every time.
@@bothhemispheresphotography5031 , another reason to use solar filter instead of ND filter is that ND filters don't block UV light. You may not see it but it can damage sensor and eyeball on a SLR viewfinder.
@@gordoncheung5445 that is an excellent point! (and something I did not know...sure am glad I have that solar filter...and mirrorless cameras)
@@bothhemispheresphotography5031 if you think replacing a DSLR is expensive, wait till you price out an eyeball replacement. Speaking of invisible lights that can blind you. Cheap laser pointers are also notorious in poor power specification. Power spec can easily be off by 10x either way. Worst yet, at low temp, it can spike at some rogue invisible spectrum that can do some real damage. There are some informative YT videos on that. I'm a sucker for light gadgets and photography too. Let's stay safe out there.
@@gordoncheung5445 I hear you on the lasers. I have a Move-Shoot-Move star tracker, and it came with a green laser (to align the tracker with Polaris). I'm pretty sure it's far more powerful than specified, so I am _very_ careful using it (point at the sky only, and, of course, nowhere near any planes!).
Good point!
Nice!! =)
Thanks!
For the setup with the ND filter, how many stops?
They used 10 and 6 stops
How many stop ND filter did you use?
He said 10 stops in the video
10 stops.
Eu habitualmente uso um filtro nd e concordo que se consegue uma melhor definição dos objectos no plano mais próximo. Também, como fotografo muitas vezes junto ao mar, consigo arrastar a água e/ou nuvens.
;D
Hello, What was the focal length please?
I think it was a 600mm
My colleague Kike used a 100-500 and I used a 70-200 with x2
Kike´s 100-500 and Chechu 70-200 with x2
👍👍👍
:D
I'm not sure how using ND filter is going to enhance the scene. You could try a circular polarising filter instead.
Thanks for the tip!
Normally, sunlight is too strong for a polarizing filter
Great beards
hahaha
interesting video as always, but what an awful place
The views are amazing...
The only reason that an Indie Filter could make it sharper is because you’re shooting at F 16, 22 or even 32 on some lenses. The sweet spot for most lenses is about halfway through the aperture scale on longer slower glass. The problem is that the sun is rapidly changing in light level as it reaches the horizon, and especially with clouds and haze present. You have to be ready to pull the ND filter off at some point as it reaches the horizon. Otherwise, you could end up with too long of a shutter speed, and that would cause blurring.
ND not indie , autocorrect bs
That's a good point!
I totally agree. Ideally, with the filter should be around F/16, but the conditions that day with the clouds were not ideal because they took away a lot of light. Anyway thank you!