Wow! I had no idea they were so much more complicated than SUs! This is truly a perfect instruction video for rebuilding these carbs, one of your best I would say. Thanks Elin!
Thank you, Elin! I have a 1976 TR6, with those Zenith carbs, so I am thrilled to see an episode where you take them all apart and talk about the function of each component. Thanks for all of the great videos! Here is to many more in 2025!
I feel your pain Elin, looking for parts, I spend half my time looking for parts, your gearbox and carb build has come at the right time for me, thanks for documenting this for all it's appreciated
...back in the 70s, we teens had triumphs and British Leylands...working on these carbs without alot of information, but we got them tuned, by ear mostly...remember to oil anything that moves...we didn't have plating and sonic crap, just wire brushes and wheels😮😢...glad to see you working on the 6....happy new year, and to chef...
Hi Elin, the temperature compensators are more trouble than they are worth and just make the carbs harder to set up, on my twin stroms I just tightened the screw down to close them permanently.
Another note with the diaphragm when you lift the piston it should drop back down smoothly and freely onto the base of the carb with a slight thump if it’s slow to drop or gets stuck then loosening the four screws on the top cover to help free it up. It can be a bit if a fiddle to get right.
Strombergs carbs you do like to test yourself don’t you,great video as always.car is coming along,can only do what you do,when you can.good job.just continue on.👍👍👍😎😎😎
About finding the carburettor parts, rule Number One, NEVER EVER throw anything away, take photos as you go, ziploc bag everything, with notes in the bag,cand keep everything together! When you remove parts to use other parts, keep everything you took off.
That white powder is likely to be aluminum oxide or zinc pest. Aluminum oxide (Al2O3) is very abrasive and should be removed completely. Zinc pest is unlikely because of improvements in zinc alloys since the 1940s but it should be cleaned off using vinegar.
Thanks Elin. (What is your beautiful black Lab's name? Mine insists on being in the garage with me when I am working, too.) I recently rebuilt the carbs on my friend's 74. Someone else had there hands in it previously. I had to buy another carb for parts because the air valve tube actually cracked when using the adjuster tool. The needle jet was frozen and so was the spring loaded set screw. No evidence of a star washer, either. When I install a new star washer, I will put the needle jet in place with the jet almost fully unscrewed, then the star washer - otherwise I fear that the star washer may prevent the jet from adjusting richer (raising). The set screw had to be doused in carb cleaner and then put in my ultrasonic cleaner to loosen up the spring. The set screw really just prevents the jets from rotating - not holding them in place rigidly, except for the spring tension, right? Otherwise it would have to be loosened and tightened while adjusting the mixture needle.... Or does the damper piston prevent it from moving?? Your videos are great! (I used a plating kit from Eastwood to plated the spoke nipples on a Norton I was working on years ago....Something to do during a cold winter. lol)
Wow! I had no idea they were so much more complicated than SUs! This is truly a perfect instruction video for rebuilding these carbs, one of your best I would say. Thanks Elin!
Thank you, Elin! I have a 1976 TR6, with those Zenith carbs, so I am thrilled to see an episode where you take them all apart and talk about the function of each component. Thanks for all of the great videos! Here is to many more in 2025!
I feel your pain Elin, looking for parts, I spend half my time looking for parts, your gearbox and carb build has come at the right time for me, thanks for documenting this for all it's appreciated
Wow. This has to be one of your best videos ever, Elin! I see you’ve got your new gimbal working. Perfect.
Thankyou for all the detailed explanation on the various components on the ZS carburetors. Even Dr Carburetor can learn something 😂
Best step by step of overhauling a Stromberg carb ever ! Thanks Elin
And I thought the SU HIFs on my MG were complicated! Great video and step by step explanations.
Thanks Elin a lot of great information in that video. Should be useful to a lot of people.
Happy New Year Elin and all your viewers
...back in the 70s, we teens had triumphs and British Leylands...working on these carbs without alot of information, but we got them tuned, by ear mostly...remember to oil anything that moves...we didn't have plating and sonic crap, just wire brushes and wheels😮😢...glad to see you working on the 6....happy new year, and to chef...
We used a lot of Methylated Spirit, (denatured alcohol) for cleaning with those wires brushes
Hi Elin, the temperature compensators are more trouble than they are worth and just make the carbs harder to set up, on my twin stroms I just tightened the screw down to close them permanently.
Another note with the diaphragm when you lift the piston it should drop back down smoothly and freely onto the base of the carb with a slight thump if it’s slow to drop or gets stuck then loosening the four screws on the top cover to help free it up. It can be a bit if a fiddle to get right.
Strombergs carbs you do like to test yourself don’t you,great video as always.car is coming along,can only do what you do,when you can.good job.just continue on.👍👍👍😎😎😎
Geez, the SU HS6s I have on my 4A, are so much simpler! Even I can rebuild them!!👍
Restarting a stalled project is a headache. As is DIY electroplating. Have a can of Stella Artois it helps 👍 Good luck
Happy New Year Elin 🥳
Fantastic knowledge and video
Happy New Year to you, Elin!!. May you all enjoy prosperity and most of ALL good health during the year. Nick & Kathy
About finding the carburettor parts, rule Number One, NEVER EVER throw anything away, take photos as you go, ziploc bag everything, with notes in the bag,cand keep everything together! When you remove parts to use other parts, keep everything you took off.
That white powder is likely to be aluminum oxide or zinc pest. Aluminum oxide (Al2O3) is very abrasive and should be removed completely. Zinc pest is unlikely because of improvements in zinc alloys since the 1940s but it should be cleaned off using vinegar.
Thanks Elin. (What is your beautiful black Lab's name? Mine insists on being in the garage with me when I am working, too.)
I recently rebuilt the carbs on my friend's 74. Someone else had there hands in it previously. I had to buy another carb for parts because the air valve tube actually cracked when using the adjuster tool. The needle jet was frozen and so was the spring loaded set screw. No evidence of a star washer, either. When I install a new star washer, I will put the needle jet in place with the jet almost fully unscrewed, then the star washer - otherwise I fear that the star washer may prevent the jet from adjusting richer (raising). The set screw had to be doused in carb cleaner and then put in my ultrasonic cleaner to loosen up the spring. The set screw really just prevents the jets from rotating - not holding them in place rigidly, except for the spring tension, right? Otherwise it would have to be loosened and tightened while adjusting the mixture needle.... Or does the damper piston prevent it from moving??
Your videos are great!
(I used a plating kit from Eastwood to plated the spoke nipples on a Norton I was working on years ago....Something to do during a cold winter. lol)
Please note, ATF attacks rubber! (The magic 50/50 Acetone/ATF mixture should only be used as a realeasing agent, never for lubrication!)
In the USA, there are people that eat carburetors for breakfast.