Looks like these are available at Walmart for under $60, but the pricing is all over the place with the same device ranging from under $60 to over $140. www.walmart.com/search/?query=220v%206500w%20tankless For those who don't mind the risk of buying something directly from China or waiting for the shipping therefrom, these can be had for under $50 with free shipping. www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=tankless+6500w
We're getting one this week. Your existing pipes reminded me to add a paper/cotton filter and ceramic to the intake. That's a lot of nasty going through the heater that can limit its life span. We have hard water ( lime + calcium ) I might do a simple 3 chamber filtration system since we do drink the water coming into the tiny home. Well water for now. Rain water for later. 😁
"YES" , wife says we paid $50 on facebook. So it should work for what we need, we're NOT trying to do the whole house, and with 3 heavy #8 wires plus breakers it would get expensive. Thanx, appreciate it.
Great. I have a similar tankless water shower. In fact, when I bought it, I looked for an installation guide video on RUclips but could not find it. Of course this is very valuable for an apprentice. Also I think this is the only video that has reviewed a shower like this.
Here is a tip from a 45 year plumber: Use Teflon tape then put pipe dope on top of that. I had leaks with tape and I had leaks with dope, using the two I have never had a leak, not once.
Thank you for your video.. I bought the same water heater but i am afraid to install it.. Can you help me what thickness of wire or gauge do i need and circuit breaker as well.. Thank you so much..
The gauge of wire should be at least 10-guage with a 30-amp double-pole breaker, but I recommend using 8-gauge or even 6-gauge if running new wire; that leaves open the opportunity to use a more powerful heater later by simply replacing the breaker. The existing tank water heater likely already has 10-guage wire run to it with an orange outer plastic jacket. You can see a brief glimpse of the wiring at 16:20 in the video. Large wire nuts connect the water heater to your 30-amp curcuit like this: Bare copper to green/yellow (that is ground) Black to Blue White to Red
I have two installed and they keep working without issue. I don't know what the E0 error means; it's not listed in the manual. docplayer.net/26404607-Instruction-manual-dsk-45ep-instant-hot-water-heater-for-proper-operation-and-maintenance-please-read-the-instruction-manual-before-installation.html www.manualslib.com/manual/928512/Gleamous-Dsk-45ep.html
hello, good day, the heater is used for the shower and kitchen water at the same time? or should I install it individually? you recommend me to use it for an apartment of 120 square meters but only hot water is used for the shower and the kitchen
Kristh I'd over size the wires. 10 gauge is fine but, 8 gauge is always better. Use a dual pole 40 amp breaker ( technically 80 amps but 40 amp per hot leg then 100% Ground the green/yellow wire.) He was pulling 30 amps which means 30 amps per hot leg so this means its a 60 amp device total. Only problem is when someone uses the sink hot water while you use the shower you'll get a drop in temp. Way to limit this drop is to install a ball valve on the sink to limited the flow of hot water that can be used at the sink. Reduce the hot water flow by 1/2 or 50%. I'm doing this also in my off grid tiny home. I will being making a video 100% in great detail on the power consumption, quality, easy to install and over all satisfaction and what you can expect from this style device. Will it work for our needs? 100% a hot shower. Note: It does not matter how to install each hot leg they do the same thing / deliver AC that meets in the middle of the heating element that heats the water. You MUST ground this system to prevent injury/death
The heater doesn't care how many faucets, machines or shower heads are running; it will work so hard as it can up to 6500 watts to heat the water to the desired temperature. These are currently installed in one-bedroom places, so the likelihood of the shower and kitchen sink running simultaneously is slim, but it would still work fine albeit with the risk of reduced temperatures at both locations. This tankless water heater adds 33°F at a flow rate of 1.5 GPM; if the flow rate is increased passed that the then increase in temperature will be reduced so long as the delta between the ground water and desired water is more than the device can handle. If you live near or south of I-10 then you should be just fine in the US or up to about 30° latitude in other countries. If you live north of I-20 then I would recommend against this keen device because the ground water in the winter will be too cold for a comfortable shower in the absence of a flow restriction. You could partially close the shutoff valve at the water heater to restrict the flow and have hotter water, but people don't seem to like 1GPM showers even though they get you just as clean as the luxurious 2GPM shower. Check out the winter follow up video to see what I mean about restricting the flow. It's actually a pretty great device if you live here in the south, y'all. ruclips.net/video/2RtRdbktA6o/видео.html
OK so was 30 amps tops? Was that the MAX it'll draw? Maybe I can use it under the sink after all, with a number 10 wire like you did, it'll be just for the kitchen sink. Thanx !!
@@SAPLSMW Hey appreciate the quick reply, This DSK-45 says it is 110 Volts and rated at 40 amps, and 4500W, it says so on the label. I found almost the same thing on Amazon, and their install instructions says, a #10 wire, with a 50 amp breaker. Like I said, it is for under the kitchen sink, so wife does NOT mind the water temp as it is. We're talking about a 200 feet of wire, so any other size would be to much $$$$$$$.
OK so you're going down the same path I was when I was looking at the "Echo". We got a "DSK45" heater for $70 deal, but now I am stuck with NO instructions to install. Like you said, this is a 4500 watt heater so at 20 amps "OR" 40 amps, which is what our label is saying. IT STILL needs to be wired up directly to the main breaker box, correct?? AND the wires on the heater itself are #8 wires, stranded, but #8 wires. So for 40 amps, and #8 wires at the heater, are they asking for #8 wire from the breaker box?? And does this heater support 2 bathrooms and a kitchen sink? I was hoping to simply use it under the cabinet?? Thanks for the video. GOD Bless !!!
If you have 8-guage wire then I would consider upgrading to an 8kw solution. Ecosmart, eemax and Rheem all have 8KW solutions for ~$200. The Kenuos 8K vanished off of Amazon; I really liked that water heater. Airtherial and Vevos have options at 8Kw for ~$135 that look like they'll work just fine. I'd give that a try first as a 8Kw water heater will add nearly twice as much heat to the shower water in those cold winter months and costs just a little more. Check out this video for a breakdown on how to decide which tankless water heater to get based on the temperature of water coming from the ground in the wintertime. It also explains how to slightly restrict the water flow to increase the temperature coming out of the water heater. ruclips.net/video/2yNEjQwk1Hw/видео.html
@@SAPLSMW YES we live in Texas, and the install will be south of the boarder. We're not worried about the temp, what ever these water heaters put out is fine with us. The install had me worried, I thought we could simply plug this into a wall socket , like some others, and be done with it. So now, I will take it all the way to the breaker box, with a 50 amp fuse, and a #10 wire. Thank You!!
That's very true. I didn't do the plumbing in this 80-yearh-old house (yet) and it is currently a bricolage of PVC, CPVC, galvanized and whatever else was laying around when repairs or adjustment were needed.
This one still works fine. I had one fail after a year, but this one and another still work without issue. The failed unit reports a failed sensor. I've been thinking about making a video showing how to replace the sensor, but I've been so busy lately.
That error message isn't covered in the manual, so I can't explain what it means. You can find the manual by googling "Instruction Manual DSK - 45EP"; somebody posted it on DocPlayer.
Forgive me, but you'll need to look for a local electrician. This is about one hour of labor, but I am unqualified to walk you through it. I replaced a tank water heater with this tankless heater in this video, but I am unqualified to show you how to set up the circuit. In my case, the wires were already run, but it sounds like you need a little more help. ruclips.net/video/kT-JNI0YYQs/видео.html
In Greece we use something else for connections, we call it “canabi” (approximately this is how we phrase it) and i found out it’s cannabis. Yes. We use cannabis fibers as sealant to threads 😭 Idk how or why it was legal all these years because it sure does smell allot like weed. But it works wonders-
We are thinking of doing the exact same thing you have done here in Central Florida. Is the heater still working after a few months and do you have any complaints? EDIT: I saw your next video from a few months later and I am convinced to try this one. Thank you for the video this is a HUGE savings over the tank heater we were saving up for. Also, it would be great to see how you did the electric connection too.
The electrical was simple enough; three large wire nuts to connect the pigtail from the tankless water heater to the 10/2 wire that I disconnected from the tank water heater. They're hidden behind the amp meter at 14:15, but it's straight forward; the 14-gauge bare ground wire goes the the green/yellow wire and the other two are hots.
@@SAPLSMW Thank you for the reply! Just bought the same one and am waiting for the delivery. The installation will be on the outside wall of the bathroom (screened in patio) of a mobile home, so it will feed a bathroom sink and shower stall in under 6 ft of pipe.
Edit: Now installing and ran into the same problem with the leaking, as you said you have to be really careful with torque on the threaded pipe fittings coming out of the unit, too much pressure and they start to create torque inside the unit. Also, for those that aren't skilled in electrical the brown is live and blue is neutral in European code. I made the install so much harder because I didn't have the braided flex pipe and did a rigid CPVC install to save money. I will give another update once I get it completely installed.
@@haljasonfoster2169 Why not record yourself doing the work and post a video on RUclips? Also, under the kitchen sink is my favorite spot for installing these.
@@SAPLSMW That would have been one hell of a video since my mistakes and leaks were epic. Just finished taking a shower and had to adjust the temp/flow to prevent scalding. There was no issue with flow and I have a 2.0 GPM shower head, of course I had make sure no one else used any water to keep the flow consistent. Thanks again for all your help and video!
Hello, I bought a used DSK-65 Instant Water Heater. Unfortunately I am missing the description and the instruction manual. When I insert the plug, "E2" flashes on the display and there is no warm water. What does this mean? I hope you can help me. many Greetings Tikaspi
According to the manual, E2 = "Temperature sensor is short circuit." Buying a new one is likely cheaper than paying somebody to repair the old one. You can find the manual by googling "Instruction Manual DSK - 45EP". Somebody posted it on DocPlayer.
There is no neutral. The green/yellow wire is ground and wired directly to the kettle. The other wires are both hot on either side of the 220v circuit--just like regular tank water heater. Check out this video that further explains how to do the wiring. It gives a few more tips for installing these. ruclips.net/video/kT-JNI0YYQs/видео.html
It hadn't occurred to me. I think a much better solution would be to invest in a more powerful tankless water heater. Installing a second water heater would entail running a second circuit and, if I'm opening walls and floors to run a second circuit, it might as well be 6-guage wire.
The one I installed is definitely 220v. It operates at 6,500 watts and, at 220v, pulls right at 29.5 amps. If yours calls for 110v then it'll be pulling in some massive amperage to get to 4,500 watts--that's about 40amps or so; you'll need to install at least 8-guage wire if you're supplying 40 amps to that device and it will not provide a hot shower. If you're forced to install 8-guage wire then I would recommend upping the device to a 220v EcoSmart 8. That'll work if you're south of I-10 to provide a nice hot shower. If you're south of I-20 then I'd recommend bumping up to an EcoSmart 13 with 6-guage wire.
Who did you buy it from? Can you send directions on how to wire it up to the existing wire already ran to your hot water heater? I’m going to copy you verbatim. My hot water heater went out when the freeze came thru TX. Anxious for a full on shower.
Search for 6500W Tankless on eBay and Amazon. These run about $60 all day. Check out this video to see how I wired mine to replace the old tank water heater. If you're not familiar with electrical circuits then I recommend hiring an electrician for just one hour; it's not nearly as expensive as you might think and will keep you and your home safe. ruclips.net/video/ahMrzqnDEc0/видео.html
Can you check to see if there's an error code and let us know? Perhaps the coil broke and can be replaced for $10 instead of buying a new tankless water heater. It would make an awesome video . . .
In theory, an electrician could install a 30-Amp dryer connector on it and use that kind of plug, but it's really not necessary. Check out this video for a walk through of wiring it up to replace a tank water heater. ruclips.net/video/ahMrzqnDEc0/видео.html If your RV is on a 30-Amp circuit then this would not be a good solution as any other device running at the same time as this one would blow the circuit breaker, but it would likely work in your RV if it has a 50-Amp service. Since this poor thing can add just ~50 degrees of heat at 1GPM then it wouldn't be advisable for use in an RV that travels up north in the winter . . .
brown is phase blue nuetral green yellow is eath, in the rest of the world, we dont call it hot ground and cold,,,its rated 220 volts so the amprage would be high for 110v
Thanks much for the feedback. I learn a little more each time I make one of these videos. We have hot, ground and neutral in the US, too, but ground and neutral are wired together in our circuit panels and neutral is only on 110V appliances. American 220V appliances have no nuetral--just two hots. This guy gives a really good layman's explanation of North American A/C current. It's silly to have to deal with two different voltages, but it's become a part of our lives. ruclips.net/video/P-W42tk-fWc/видео.html
@@SAPLSMW You are 100% correct. Hot Leg1 and Hot Leg 2. Both are 110v Hot wires. Ground is to go to the ground wire incase of product failure its grounded out! Our Neutral is ONLY 110v service. 110 needs a return. Thus the neutral that allows for the back flow of electrons in AC application. Is neutral and ground the same? NO it is not. Not when running through a breaker box. Breakers will trip properly to break the current! If you avoid running this through the break panel and just wired it to ground... on a fault or not you'd have a permanent current flowing through the ground wire. Neutral ALWAYS has current flowing through it and sent back to the grid. Note: Ground are for casing of metal devices. The ground allows for current flow on a system failure where something Bad happens and the hot wire touches the devices Metal housing! You touch that you'll either get zapped or worse. Been there ... done that!
Additional info. What if the neutral wire has failure? The Product/device stops working. What if the Hot wire has failure and touches the metal casing? Thank god you have a ground return wire to send power somewhere other then heating up, making sparks and a fire. Neutral and Ground is NOT the same! Neutral is a power turn. Ground is a Metal casing return for power hot wire failure to device. Its a hard concept when not drawn on paper. people fail to wrap their head around it. If you do not use the ground in a 220v application and a hot wire fails where is the electricity going to go? 😉
I don't know that there's a way to reset it except by shutting off the circuit breaker, turning it back on and then turning the unit back on with the power button.
I'm not in a position to provide support for these; if they leak internally then I would propose teasing it apart and looking inside to see if it can be salvaged. If it's leaking at the connector then I would propose more plumber's tape or using a different connector.
I would ensure that it's wired properly and that includes proper grounding. The power leakage detection is likely for safety, so I might consider buying a new one.
The white plastic is actually the pipe coming out of the water heater and the metal threads are just a sleeve on the white plastic pipe. The tankless heater reduces the flow so that the water spends more time in the kettle and comes out hotter.
I'm of the same mind, but this was just an experiment (that is still proceeding) and galvanized was much cheaper than brass. I only use brass adapters now.
I don't know, but they're so cheap that it's almost moot. I have a couple set aside for postmortems; I'll get that on the 'net if I can get them fixed. In the meantime, just grab another one (and maybe a spare). It takes about ten minutes to swap them out--ten times faster than a tank.
Looks like these are available at Walmart for under $60, but the pricing is all over the place with the same device ranging from under $60 to over $140.
www.walmart.com/search/?query=220v%206500w%20tankless
For those who don't mind the risk of buying something directly from China or waiting for the shipping therefrom, these can be had for under $50 with free shipping.
www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=tankless+6500w
We're getting one this week. Your existing pipes reminded me to add a paper/cotton filter and ceramic to the intake. That's a lot of nasty going through the heater that can limit its life span. We have hard water ( lime + calcium ) I might do a simple 3 chamber filtration system since we do drink the water coming into the tiny home. Well water for now. Rain water for later. 😁
"YES" , wife says we paid $50 on facebook. So it should work for what we need, we're NOT trying to do the whole house, and with 3 heavy #8 wires plus breakers it would get expensive. Thanx, appreciate it.
Great. I have a similar tankless water shower. In fact, when I bought it, I looked for an installation guide video on RUclips but could not find it. Of course this is very valuable for an apprentice. Also I think this is the only video that has reviewed a shower like this.
You can find the manual by googling "Instruction Manual DSK - 45EP". Somebody posted it on DocPlayer.
Good video. Not often you a see a yt video where the person actually responded to EVERY question. Good job.👍
Thanks. This is such an easy solution for the folks living south of I-10 that I just had to share.
Here is a tip from a 45 year plumber: Use Teflon tape then put pipe dope on top of that. I had leaks with tape and I had leaks with dope, using the two I have never had a leak, not once.
Totally agree. This knowledge came to me the hard way: personal experience. Hopefully, it's not wasted on my viewers.
Or,, Buy Hi Quality product :-)) never leaked, , no tape Nothing,, tread has to match perfectly to other part,, thats all
Thanks for this, was looking around for a review for quite a while, I appreciate it. Hope you have an awesome day
Hey, I was glad to do it. I've got some more tankless water heater reviews planned this year.
Thanks for this review. Decided to get it myself and look for the one below $60 as the same product can have different prices online. Thanks!
Awesome! The low barrier to entry makes divorcing the tank water heater so easy.
Hello, Thanks for the video, Can you especify the electric conection of the wires please.
They're 220V/30Amp 10-gauge 10/2 solid Romex. It's the same wires that are already run to the existing tank water heater.
Check out this video that shows how the wiring is done. ruclips.net/video/kT-JNI0YYQs/видео.html
Thank you for your video.. I bought the same water heater but i am afraid to install it.. Can you help me what thickness of wire or gauge do i need and circuit breaker as well.. Thank you so much..
The gauge of wire should be at least 10-guage with a 30-amp double-pole breaker, but I recommend using 8-gauge or even 6-gauge if running new wire; that leaves open the opportunity to use a more powerful heater later by simply replacing the breaker. The existing tank water heater likely already has 10-guage wire run to it with an orange outer plastic jacket.
You can see a brief glimpse of the wiring at 16:20 in the video. Large wire nuts connect the water heater to your 30-amp curcuit like this:
Bare copper to green/yellow (that is ground)
Black to Blue
White to Red
@@SAPLSMW Thank you for the info! God Bless!
Is it still working? I'm getting error E0
I have two installed and they keep working without issue. I don't know what the E0 error means; it's not listed in the manual.
docplayer.net/26404607-Instruction-manual-dsk-45ep-instant-hot-water-heater-for-proper-operation-and-maintenance-please-read-the-instruction-manual-before-installation.html
www.manualslib.com/manual/928512/Gleamous-Dsk-45ep.html
hello, good day, the heater is used for the shower and kitchen water at the same time? or should I install it individually? you recommend me to use it for an apartment of 120 square meters but only hot water is used for the shower and the kitchen
Kristh I'd over size the wires. 10 gauge is fine but, 8 gauge is always better. Use a dual pole 40 amp breaker ( technically 80 amps but 40 amp per hot leg then 100% Ground the green/yellow wire.) He was pulling 30 amps which means 30 amps per hot leg so this means its a 60 amp device total. Only problem is when someone uses the sink hot water while you use the shower you'll get a drop in temp. Way to limit this drop is to install a ball valve on the sink to limited the flow of hot water that can be used at the sink. Reduce the hot water flow by 1/2 or 50%. I'm doing this also in my off grid tiny home. I will being making a video 100% in great detail on the power consumption, quality, easy to install and over all satisfaction and what you can expect from this style device. Will it work for our needs? 100% a hot shower. Note: It does not matter how to install each hot leg they do the same thing / deliver AC that meets in the middle of the heating element that heats the water. You MUST ground this system to prevent injury/death
The heater doesn't care how many faucets, machines or shower heads are running; it will work so hard as it can up to 6500 watts to heat the water to the desired temperature. These are currently installed in one-bedroom places, so the likelihood of the shower and kitchen sink running simultaneously is slim, but it would still work fine albeit with the risk of reduced temperatures at both locations.
This tankless water heater adds 33°F at a flow rate of 1.5 GPM; if the flow rate is increased passed that the then increase in temperature will be reduced so long as the delta between the ground water and desired water is more than the device can handle. If you live near or south of I-10 then you should be just fine in the US or up to about 30° latitude in other countries.
If you live north of I-20 then I would recommend against this keen device because the ground water in the winter will be too cold for a comfortable shower in the absence of a flow restriction. You could partially close the shutoff valve at the water heater to restrict the flow and have hotter water, but people don't seem to like 1GPM showers even though they get you just as clean as the luxurious 2GPM shower.
Check out the winter follow up video to see what I mean about restricting the flow. It's actually a pretty great device if you live here in the south, y'all.
ruclips.net/video/2RtRdbktA6o/видео.html
OK so was 30 amps tops? Was that the MAX it'll draw? Maybe I can use it under the sink after all, with a number 10 wire like you did, it'll be just for the kitchen sink. Thanx !!
I put my loop tester on this and it draws right at 29.5 amps. The math works out; 6,500 watts is 220v times 29.5 amps.
@@SAPLSMW Hey appreciate the quick reply, This DSK-45 says it is 110 Volts and rated at 40 amps, and 4500W, it says so on the label. I found almost the same thing on Amazon, and their install instructions says, a #10 wire, with a 50 amp breaker. Like I said, it is for under the kitchen sink, so wife does NOT mind the water temp as it is. We're talking about a 200 feet of wire, so any other size would be to much $$$$$$$.
OK so you're going down the same path I was when I was looking at the "Echo". We got a "DSK45" heater for $70 deal, but now I am stuck with NO instructions to install. Like you said, this is a 4500 watt heater so at 20 amps "OR" 40 amps, which is what our label is saying. IT STILL needs to be wired up directly to the main breaker box, correct?? AND the wires on the heater itself are #8 wires, stranded, but #8 wires. So for 40 amps, and #8 wires at the heater, are they asking for #8 wire from the breaker box?? And does this heater support 2 bathrooms and a kitchen sink? I was hoping to simply use it under the cabinet?? Thanks for the video. GOD Bless !!!
If you have 8-guage wire then I would consider upgrading to an 8kw solution. Ecosmart, eemax and Rheem all have 8KW solutions for ~$200. The Kenuos 8K vanished off of Amazon; I really liked that water heater.
Airtherial and Vevos have options at 8Kw for ~$135 that look like they'll work just fine. I'd give that a try first as a 8Kw water heater will add nearly twice as much heat to the shower water in those cold winter months and costs just a little more.
Check out this video for a breakdown on how to decide which tankless water heater to get based on the temperature of water coming from the ground in the wintertime. It also explains how to slightly restrict the water flow to increase the temperature coming out of the water heater.
ruclips.net/video/2yNEjQwk1Hw/видео.html
@@SAPLSMW YES we live in Texas, and the install will be south of the boarder. We're not worried about the temp, what ever these water heaters put out is fine with us. The install had me worried, I thought we could simply plug this into a wall socket , like some others, and be done with it. So now, I will take it all the way to the breaker box, with a 50 amp fuse, and a #10 wire. Thank You!!
Insulation around pipes wld be good
That's very true. I didn't do the plumbing in this 80-yearh-old house (yet) and it is currently a bricolage of PVC, CPVC, galvanized and whatever else was laying around when repairs or adjustment were needed.
How did you wire it though, completely skipped over that after finding ground?
I have a few follow up videos on this. You can see how it's wired here. ruclips.net/video/kT-JNI0YYQs/видео.html
Has it been working ok? 4years?
This one still works fine. I had one fail after a year, but this one and another still work without issue.
The failed unit reports a failed sensor. I've been thinking about making a video showing how to replace the sensor, but I've been so busy lately.
Hello and hallo.
I have a question.
Kann man diese Gerät mit Stärke Strom 480V anschließen?
Gruß
Vielleicht, aber warum sollte man es riskieren? Ich lebe jahrelang in Deutschland und weiß, dass die Spannung 220 bis 240 Volt beträgt.
When I insert the plug E0 flash on my display.
can anybody help me ?
That error message isn't covered in the manual, so I can't explain what it means. You can find the manual by googling "Instruction Manual DSK - 45EP"; somebody posted it on DocPlayer.
But where do the wires go into I live in a trailer and don’t really know where to put the wires
Forgive me, but you'll need to look for a local electrician. This is about one hour of labor, but I am unqualified to walk you through it.
I replaced a tank water heater with this tankless heater in this video, but I am unqualified to show you how to set up the circuit. In my case, the wires were already run, but it sounds like you need a little more help.
ruclips.net/video/kT-JNI0YYQs/видео.html
I need to buy a firting/adapter to connect to the hose I have. Any advice? What size?
Hi Jay, any old half-inch NPT hose with a rubber washer will work. I show how easy these are in this video. ruclips.net/video/kT-JNI0YYQs/видео.html
In Greece we use something else for connections, we call it “canabi” (approximately this is how we phrase it) and i found out it’s cannabis. Yes. We use cannabis fibers as sealant to threads 😭 Idk how or why it was legal all these years because it sure does smell allot like weed. But it works wonders-
We are thinking of doing the exact same thing you have done here in Central Florida. Is the heater still working after a few months and do you have any complaints? EDIT: I saw your next video from a few months later and I am convinced to try this one. Thank you for the video this is a HUGE savings over the tank heater we were saving up for. Also, it would be great to see how you did the electric connection too.
The electrical was simple enough; three large wire nuts to connect the pigtail from the tankless water heater to the 10/2 wire that I disconnected from the tank water heater. They're hidden behind the amp meter at 14:15, but it's straight forward; the 14-gauge bare ground wire goes the the green/yellow wire and the other two are hots.
@@SAPLSMW Thank you for the reply! Just bought the same one and am waiting for the delivery. The installation will be on the outside wall of the bathroom (screened in patio) of a mobile home, so it will feed a bathroom sink and shower stall in under 6 ft of pipe.
Edit: Now installing and ran into the same problem with the leaking, as you said you have to be really careful with torque on the threaded pipe fittings coming out of the unit, too much pressure and they start to create torque inside the unit. Also, for those that aren't skilled in electrical the brown is live and blue is neutral in European code. I made the install so much harder because I didn't have the braided flex pipe and did a rigid CPVC install to save money. I will give another update once I get it completely installed.
@@haljasonfoster2169 Why not record yourself doing the work and post a video on RUclips? Also, under the kitchen sink is my favorite spot for installing these.
@@SAPLSMW That would have been one hell of a video since my mistakes and leaks were epic. Just finished taking a shower and had to adjust the temp/flow to prevent scalding. There was no issue with flow and I have a 2.0 GPM shower head, of course I had make sure no one else used any water to keep the flow consistent. Thanks again for all your help and video!
Hello, I bought a used DSK-65 Instant Water Heater. Unfortunately I am missing the description and the instruction manual. When I insert the plug, "E2" flashes on the display and there is no warm water. What does this mean? I hope you can help me. many Greetings Tikaspi
According to the manual, E2 = "Temperature sensor is short circuit." Buying a new one is likely cheaper than paying somebody to repair the old one.
You can find the manual by googling "Instruction Manual DSK - 45EP". Somebody posted it on DocPlayer.
@@SAPLSMW which wire is hot and which is neutral
There is no neutral. The green/yellow wire is ground and wired directly to the kettle. The other wires are both hot on either side of the 220v circuit--just like regular tank water heater.
Check out this video that further explains how to do the wiring. It gives a few more tips for installing these.
ruclips.net/video/kT-JNI0YYQs/видео.html
Do you think connecting two of these in parallel would be a good idea to get a better flow rate?
It hadn't occurred to me. I think a much better solution would be to invest in a more powerful tankless water heater. Installing a second water heater would entail running a second circuit and, if I'm opening walls and floors to run a second circuit, it might as well be 6-guage wire.
The one you're testing is a 45 is this a 110 v I have the dsx45 and it says it's 110
The one I installed is definitely 220v. It operates at 6,500 watts and, at 220v, pulls right at 29.5 amps.
If yours calls for 110v then it'll be pulling in some massive amperage to get to 4,500 watts--that's about 40amps or so; you'll need to install at least 8-guage wire if you're supplying 40 amps to that device and it will not provide a hot shower.
If you're forced to install 8-guage wire then I would recommend upping the device to a 220v EcoSmart 8. That'll work if you're south of I-10 to provide a nice hot shower. If you're south of I-20 then I'd recommend bumping up to an EcoSmart 13 with 6-guage wire.
Who did you buy it from?
Can you send directions on how to wire it up to the existing wire already ran to your hot water heater? I’m going to copy you verbatim. My hot water heater went out when the freeze came thru TX. Anxious for a full on shower.
Search for 6500W Tankless on eBay and Amazon. These run about $60 all day.
Check out this video to see how I wired mine to replace the old tank water heater. If you're not familiar with electrical circuits then I recommend hiring an electrician for just one hour; it's not nearly as expensive as you might think and will keep you and your home safe.
ruclips.net/video/ahMrzqnDEc0/видео.html
because u had cheap POS with plastic parts in it,, :-)))) no more plastic crap for me
How did you connect the wires just curious, mines came with the same wire as yours but idk which wire to connect to what
I go over it in this followup video. The green/yellow is ground and the other two are hots. ruclips.net/video/kT-JNI0YYQs/видео.html
I purchased these, worked amazingly. But only last about a year then stops. Lucky they are cheap
Can you check to see if there's an error code and let us know? Perhaps the coil broke and can be replaced for $10 instead of buying a new tankless water heater. It would make an awesome video . . .
@@SAPLSMW just disconect coil and check for Continuity :-))) that simple
Can you use a 3 pronged plug to power it? Im trying to use it in an rv
In theory, an electrician could install a 30-Amp dryer connector on it and use that kind of plug, but it's really not necessary. Check out this video for a walk through of wiring it up to replace a tank water heater.
ruclips.net/video/ahMrzqnDEc0/видео.html
If your RV is on a 30-Amp circuit then this would not be a good solution as any other device running at the same time as this one would blow the circuit breaker, but it would likely work in your RV if it has a 50-Amp service. Since this poor thing can add just ~50 degrees of heat at 1GPM then it wouldn't be advisable for use in an RV that travels up north in the winter . . .
How to maitain the temperature?
Click the up and down arrows on the front of the device when it is turned on. It only works in Celsius.
brown is phase blue nuetral green yellow is eath, in the rest of the world, we dont call it hot ground and cold,,,its rated 220 volts so the amprage would be high for 110v
Thanks much for the feedback. I learn a little more each time I make one of these videos.
We have hot, ground and neutral in the US, too, but ground and neutral are wired together in our circuit panels and neutral is only on 110V appliances. American 220V appliances have no nuetral--just two hots.
This guy gives a really good layman's explanation of North American A/C current. It's silly to have to deal with two different voltages, but it's become a part of our lives.
ruclips.net/video/P-W42tk-fWc/видео.html
@@SAPLSMW You are 100% correct. Hot Leg1 and Hot Leg 2. Both are 110v Hot wires. Ground is to go to the ground wire incase of product failure its grounded out! Our Neutral is ONLY 110v service. 110 needs a return. Thus the neutral that allows for the back flow of electrons in AC application. Is neutral and ground the same? NO it is not. Not when running through a breaker box. Breakers will trip properly to break the current! If you avoid running this through the break panel and just wired it to ground... on a fault or not you'd have a permanent current flowing through the ground wire. Neutral ALWAYS has current flowing through it and sent back to the grid. Note: Ground are for casing of metal devices. The ground allows for current flow on a system failure where something Bad happens and the hot wire touches the devices Metal housing! You touch that you'll either get zapped or worse. Been there ... done that!
Additional info. What if the neutral wire has failure? The Product/device stops working. What if the Hot wire has failure and touches the metal casing? Thank god you have a ground return wire to send power somewhere other then heating up, making sparks and a fire. Neutral and Ground is NOT the same! Neutral is a power turn. Ground is a Metal casing return for power hot wire failure to device. Its a hard concept when not drawn on paper. people fail to wrap their head around it. If you do not use the ground in a 220v application and a hot wire fails where is the electricity going to go? 😉
How do I reset it
I don't know that there's a way to reset it except by shutting off the circuit breaker, turning it back on and then turning the unit back on with the power button.
Mines leaking bad need help
I'm not in a position to provide support for these; if they leak internally then I would propose teasing it apart and looking inside to see if it can be salvaged. If it's leaking at the connector then I would propose more plumber's tape or using a different connector.
Hi e1 what mean 🥺
You can find the manual by googling "Instruction Manual DSK - 45EP". Somebody posted it on DocPlayer.
How to fix this E1 error? I have seen the manual and it says it has electrical leakage. Oh no
I would ensure that it's wired properly and that includes proper grounding. The power leakage detection is likely for safety, so I might consider buying a new one.
pull that white plastic OUT,,, it making problem with flow,, if u want, find metal net in lowes with rubber gasket
The white plastic is actually the pipe coming out of the water heater and the metal threads are just a sleeve on the white plastic pipe. The tankless heater reduces the flow so that the water spends more time in the kettle and comes out hotter.
Gal fittings no good. Brass
I'm of the same mind, but this was just an experiment (that is still proceeding) and galvanized was much cheaper than brass. I only use brass adapters now.
Just now mine suddenly died idk why got any idea?
I don't know, but they're so cheap that it's almost moot. I have a couple set aside for postmortems; I'll get that on the 'net if I can get them fixed.
In the meantime, just grab another one (and maybe a spare). It takes about ten minutes to swap them out--ten times faster than a tank.