I wouldn't recommend it. Better to use a sealant that has a little flex to it. As your car drives over the sections cracked, they move slightly and the rigid finish of the hydraulic cement would crack.
@@Therealsealllc what I have is a wrought iron railing going into the concrete slab in front of the house. Not sure what they originally used but it's shot. Was going to use the hydraulic cement so I wouldn't have water invading down around the post. That is, of course, after I cleaned out the hole and rust converted the post.
Hello @shashG30, it's best that you get a qualified contractor in your area to help you diagnose and repair the issue. There are different solutions to different problems.
Thank you. If i apply to "interior garage" foundation wall hydraulic cement as initial seal, followed by roofing cement or tar on a crack, will that be ok? I can't get to the crack from the outside/exterior.
It will hold for a little while, but not forever. For that type of seal (hydraulic cement and tar), it is best to apply from the outside That way, water pressure holds it against the wall, as opposed to pushing it out from the wall. Make sense? Otherwise, if you see the crack from the interior, we would suggest Epoxy Injection. Below is a link to that video. ruclips.net/video/2KrIa9iAIeU/видео.html
@@Therealsealllc thanks. It's makes perfect sense. Are injection specialists relatively easy to find. Are waterproofing guys generally trained in this injection option? I'm in Los Angeles where it doesn't rain too much. One option is to do the hydraulic cement roofing tar combo from the interior and hope it gives me 10 yrs if I can't find any injection guys.
@@Therealsealllc thank you. They appear very impressive from online research. I just sent them a message. I really appreciate you. You are a fantastic person
@@Therealsealllc Watched that epoxy video. I can see why it's a more complete solution since it fills unseen voids along a path. What I'm less sure about is its permanence over time when you still have not treated the outside.
Can I put shower floor tile on hydraulic cement using thinset? There is no leak, but the floor is full of moisture and would long time to dry, so I planning to use hydraulic cement for fill up some holes.
Hi Debashis! You could do that with hydraulic cement to fill up some holes/gaps to help with laying down tile. It won't prevent seepage if pressure builds up, but will create a good moisture barrier for those voids you see.
Great question! You want to wait until the hydraulic cement completely dries to ensure the sealer sticks. You'll see the hydraulic cement go from a dark gray to a light gray color. If you want to speed up the process, you can put a torch on it to heat up the material after it is applied.
Hi Aral! Yes, you can use hydraulic cement on small cracks on the exterior foundation. A couple things to keep in mind: If you just do a surface hydraulic cement patch, it won't be waterproof. You'll need a waterproof tar barrier to ensure no water penetration. If cosmetic is what you're going for for those cracks above grade, and no digging, just keep in mind it is purely cosmetic. The cracks will continue down into the ground. We have very few true "slabs" in Chicagoland. Most slabs have a 4 ft frost wall (concrete foundation that extends 4 ft into the ground) to prevent the foundation from moving between freeze/thaw cycles. Let us know if you have any other questions!
Nik here (again), one follow up question on hydraulic cement. i want to abandon my sump pail/pit that is inside the house now that i have my perimeter tile gravity draining to a pond. it is about 2 feet deep & 1 foot in diameter. there is the plastic pail in it. do you think I could just dump a whole whack of hydraulic cement into the "pail" just to fill it?
Hi Nik! You could, but that wouldn't be the way I would recommend. The best way is to cut and pull the old basin out and then fill it up with dirt, with a 4" gravel layer at top and then the same thickness of concrete that is existing in the basement.
Hi Parson! It can be for certain applications, but it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. We mainly use it as fill prior to a waterproofing barrier/seal being applied.
Can this cement be used around the edge of the inlet pipe of a septic tank which the diameter of the pvc pipe is 4" ? I recently found massive roots that worked their way around the diamer of the pipe & had crushed the pipe & roots have grown massivly in the inlet & outlet chambers of the tank, was originally thinking using some reg cement on the outside & inside diameter of pipe but dont know how it would hold up once water & sludge starts to build up around the inlet pipe if it would start crumbling away?
Hi Joey! Hydraulic Cement is not a permanent solution, especially for that application. It sounds like you have a collapsed pipe that is in need of replacement. Once you have that replaced, we would suggest an exterior foundation seal or injection of epoxy around the pipe. Tree roots will instinctively search for water, so the broken pipe was a natural place for them to go. An elastomeric tar seal around that pipe entrance from the exterior, with the use of hydraulic cement to fill the major gaps first, will stop water and roots from entering again. We would also suggest removing the tree if it is within 15 feet of the home, as those roots will inevitably find somewhere else to go, clogging other pipes.
hi - i have a rural property on well and septic. my foundation perimeter tile gravity drains to a pond. i do have a sump pit/pail in the basement that was supposed to only be for furnace condensation line and for floor drain outlet. the perimeter tile was not supposed to outlet back into the house. the water around the foundation was supposed to gravity drain to the pond away from the house. everything is done that way but unfortunately the foundation guy did not know this. he drilled a 4 inch hole through the foundation into the sump pail. now perimeter water enters my sump pit in the house. i want to plug this 4" diameter hole. hydraulic cement is the only thing i can think of. any thoughts would be appreciated? thanks
Hi Niks! Yes, Hydraulic Cement would work, but Bentonite would likely be a better solution for this problem. You can fill the hole with Bentonite (dry mix) and then cap the hole off with at least 3" of Hydraulic Cement (wet mix) to hold it in. When water hits that hole again, it will activate the Bentonite, expand, and seal the hole. Another application if this is directly in your foundation wall is to do an Expoy Polyurethane Injection. This will fill the hole with an expanding foam that will stop water from going into the foundation. We have a video on this process as well!
@@Therealsealllc i really appreciate the quick reply. from what i can tell from the drawings, there is a "T "off of the perimeter subdrain tile that comes through the footing (not the foundation wall itself) and then that piece of T subdrain travels a very short distance (maybe 2 feet) under the floor (ie through the footing and clear stone) into the sump pail. i will look into the bentonite. I would prefer to do this from inside the house (ie from the sump pail, i would remove the pump and backup pump first to give me room) as opposed to digging down to expose the footing). the sump pail is not very large diameter (18 inches) so it may be challenging to get the bentonite/hydraulic cement in. any advice on working from inside the house?
@@nikshill8767 My advice for working from inside in that tight of an area is to find a "grease man." Do you have a teenager, nephew, or small friend? They can work easier in those spaces. Be sure you remove the sump pump when working (make sure it's not raining!) and that will give you more room as well. They may have done that hole on accident, not realizing the plans stated to use the exterior drain tile as a gravity drain to the pond until after they drilled the hole. Main thing is keeping the water out of the basement. So as long as the sump keeps working, you're in good shape. But if you want to reduce that water coming from the exterior tile, you can plug that hole. Another good thing to check is that line that runs to the pond. Have a plumber come camera it out so you can make sure it is not clogged or collapsed. That may be forcing water into your sump pit if it can't flow freely to the pond.
Can this be used for cosmetic purposes on above-grade exterior foundation wall? The poured cement with seams is unsightly. If so, any prep for the wall recommended?
Yes it can be, but it's important to note that the color will not match. You may need a skim coat in order to make the whole wall uniform. Just need to clean the wall with a steel-wire brush and you're good to go.
Great question! Yes, this can be used to fill in those cracks in the garage floor before you apply your rubber floor coating. Be sure you allow the hydraulic cement to fully dry before you apply the coating. The hydraulic cement will turn from a dark/moist color to a white/dry color.
Hi Dan! There are post-setting cement mixes that advertise they can work like that, but a general hydraulic cement wouldn't be the best application. We always profess that it is best to mix your cement before placing/laying it. That way, you can ensure the correct mixture and strength.
How about using Hydraulic cement for driveway cracks? Any suggestions?
I wouldn't recommend it. Better to use a sealant that has a little flex to it. As your car drives over the sections cracked, they move slightly and the rigid finish of the hydraulic cement would crack.
Can you mix it thinner to pour into a 3" diameter vertical hole and if so, will that slow down the curing time?
Yes, and yes. However to fill a hole with slurry, you're better off using a grout that is designed for that.
@@Therealsealllc what I have is a wrought iron railing going into the concrete slab in front of the house. Not sure what they originally used but it's shot. Was going to use the hydraulic cement so I wouldn't have water invading down around the post. That is, of course, after I cleaned out the hole and rust converted the post.
@@rtritt4427 This would be a good application for Hydraulic Cement. Make sure you fill up the entire hole and don't leave air pockets.
@@Therealsealllc Awesome. Thank you for the prompt response.
@@rtritt4427 Happy to help!
My ground sump has crack , so seepage, how to repair tat permanently???
Hello @shashG30, it's best that you get a qualified contractor in your area to help you diagnose and repair the issue. There are different solutions to different problems.
@Therealsealllc thank you sir , please do start classes , so other countries also learn from best ppl lik u
@@shashG30 Thank you! I'll keep making videos and helping as much as I can from here!
Thank you. If i apply to "interior garage" foundation wall hydraulic cement as initial seal, followed by roofing cement or tar on a crack, will that be ok? I can't get to the crack from the outside/exterior.
It will hold for a little while, but not forever. For that type of seal (hydraulic cement and tar), it is best to apply from the outside That way, water pressure holds it against the wall, as opposed to pushing it out from the wall. Make sense?
Otherwise, if you see the crack from the interior, we would suggest Epoxy Injection. Below is a link to that video.
ruclips.net/video/2KrIa9iAIeU/видео.html
@@Therealsealllc thanks. It's makes perfect sense. Are injection specialists relatively easy to find. Are waterproofing guys generally trained in this injection option? I'm in Los Angeles where it doesn't rain too much. One option is to do the hydraulic cement roofing tar combo from the interior and hope it gives me 10 yrs if I can't find any injection guys.
@@nickka2009 it is harder to find injection specialists in that area, but we know Dalinghaus Construction, and they may be able to help you out!
@@Therealsealllc thank you. They appear very impressive from online research. I just sent them a message. I really appreciate you. You are a fantastic person
@@Therealsealllc Watched that epoxy video. I can see why it's a more complete solution since it fills unseen voids along a path. What I'm less sure about is its permanence over time when you still have not treated the outside.
Hi can I use it to cover my shower walls
We wouldn't recommend it for that. Your shower walls should be a plastic or metal of some kind. We wouldn't recommend concrete as a shower wall.
Hi, I just want to repair some holes left behind from a tv mount on walls made of concrete. Will this work?
Hello! Yes, this would be a good application. The color won't match, but it will fill the hole and create a smooth surface.
Any reason not to use a premixed hydraulic cement for crafts?
Not that I can think of!
Can I put shower floor tile on hydraulic cement using thinset? There is no leak, but the floor is full of moisture and would long time to dry, so I planning to use hydraulic cement for fill up some holes.
Hi Debashis! You could do that with hydraulic cement to fill up some holes/gaps to help with laying down tile. It won't prevent seepage if pressure builds up, but will create a good moisture barrier for those voids you see.
After applying hydraulic cement, how soon can I apply foundation sealer?
Great question! You want to wait until the hydraulic cement completely dries to ensure the sealer sticks.
You'll see the hydraulic cement go from a dark gray to a light gray color. If you want to speed up the process, you can put a torch on it to heat up the material after it is applied.
Can you use hydraulic cement on small cracks in the exterior foundation?
Hi Aral! Yes, you can use hydraulic cement on small cracks on the exterior foundation. A couple things to keep in mind:
If you just do a surface hydraulic cement patch, it won't be waterproof. You'll need a waterproof tar barrier to ensure no water penetration.
If cosmetic is what you're going for for those cracks above grade, and no digging, just keep in mind it is purely cosmetic. The cracks will continue down into the ground. We have very few true "slabs" in Chicagoland. Most slabs have a 4 ft frost wall (concrete foundation that extends 4 ft into the ground) to prevent the foundation from moving between freeze/thaw cycles.
Let us know if you have any other questions!
Nik here (again), one follow up question on hydraulic cement. i want to abandon my sump pail/pit that is inside the house now that i have my perimeter tile gravity draining to a pond. it is about 2 feet deep & 1 foot in diameter. there is the plastic pail in it. do you think I could just dump a whole whack of hydraulic cement into the "pail" just to fill it?
Hi Nik! You could, but that wouldn't be the way I would recommend. The best way is to cut and pull the old basin out and then fill it up with dirt, with a 4" gravel layer at top and then the same thickness of concrete that is existing in the basement.
@@Therealsealllc of course!! I feel "dumb" now. thx!!!
@@nikshill8767 Happy to help! And no dumb questions!
Can it be mixed and spread onto cement board?
Hi Parson! It can be for certain applications, but it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. We mainly use it as fill prior to a waterproofing barrier/seal being applied.
can use it on cast iron?
Not the best application for cast iron. What would you be using it for?
Can this cement be used around the edge of the inlet pipe of a septic tank which the diameter of the pvc pipe is 4" ? I recently found massive roots that worked their way around the diamer of the pipe & had crushed the pipe & roots have grown massivly in the inlet & outlet chambers of the tank, was originally thinking using some reg cement on the outside & inside diameter of pipe but dont know how it would hold up once water & sludge starts to build up around the inlet pipe if it would start crumbling away?
Hi Joey! Hydraulic Cement is not a permanent solution, especially for that application. It sounds like you have a collapsed pipe that is in need of replacement. Once you have that replaced, we would suggest an exterior foundation seal or injection of epoxy around the pipe.
Tree roots will instinctively search for water, so the broken pipe was a natural place for them to go. An elastomeric tar seal around that pipe entrance from the exterior, with the use of hydraulic cement to fill the major gaps first, will stop water and roots from entering again.
We would also suggest removing the tree if it is within 15 feet of the home, as those roots will inevitably find somewhere else to go, clogging other pipes.
hi - i have a rural property on well and septic. my foundation perimeter tile gravity drains to a pond. i do have a sump pit/pail in the basement that was supposed to only be for furnace condensation line and for floor drain outlet. the perimeter tile was not supposed to outlet back into the house. the water around the foundation was supposed to gravity drain to the pond away from the house. everything is done that way but unfortunately the foundation guy did not know this. he drilled a 4 inch hole through the foundation into the sump pail. now perimeter water enters my sump pit in the house. i want to plug this 4" diameter hole. hydraulic cement is the only thing i can think of. any thoughts would be appreciated? thanks
Hi Niks! Yes, Hydraulic Cement would work, but Bentonite would likely be a better solution for this problem. You can fill the hole with Bentonite (dry mix) and then cap the hole off with at least 3" of Hydraulic Cement (wet mix) to hold it in.
When water hits that hole again, it will activate the Bentonite, expand, and seal the hole.
Another application if this is directly in your foundation wall is to do an Expoy Polyurethane Injection. This will fill the hole with an expanding foam that will stop water from going into the foundation. We have a video on this process as well!
@@Therealsealllc i really appreciate the quick reply. from what i can tell from the drawings, there is a "T "off of the perimeter subdrain tile that comes through the footing (not the foundation wall itself) and then that piece of T subdrain travels a very short distance (maybe 2 feet) under the floor (ie through the footing and clear stone) into the sump pail. i will look into the bentonite. I would prefer to do this from inside the house (ie from the sump pail, i would remove the pump and backup pump first to give me room) as opposed to digging down to expose the footing). the sump pail is not very large diameter (18 inches) so it may be challenging to get the bentonite/hydraulic cement in. any advice on working from inside the house?
@@nikshill8767 My advice for working from inside in that tight of an area is to find a "grease man." Do you have a teenager, nephew, or small friend? They can work easier in those spaces.
Be sure you remove the sump pump when working (make sure it's not raining!) and that will give you more room as well.
They may have done that hole on accident, not realizing the plans stated to use the exterior drain tile as a gravity drain to the pond until after they drilled the hole.
Main thing is keeping the water out of the basement. So as long as the sump keeps working, you're in good shape. But if you want to reduce that water coming from the exterior tile, you can plug that hole.
Another good thing to check is that line that runs to the pond. Have a plumber come camera it out so you can make sure it is not clogged or collapsed. That may be forcing water into your sump pit if it can't flow freely to the pond.
@@Therealsealllc understood and good advices. much appreciated.
Thank you
Happy to help!
Can this be used for cosmetic purposes on above-grade exterior foundation wall? The poured cement with seams is unsightly. If so, any prep for the wall recommended?
Yes it can be, but it's important to note that the color will not match. You may need a skim coat in order to make the whole wall uniform.
Just need to clean the wall with a steel-wire brush and you're good to go.
@@Therealsealllc Can you use the hydraulic cement for a skim coat?
@@DSilvergun There are better products out there for skim coats. This would be a thicker mix used for larger gaps.
Would this be a good product to use to fill in large concrete garage floor cracks(1-2” deep) prior to applying a troweled rubber floor coating?
Great question! Yes, this can be used to fill in those cracks in the garage floor before you apply your rubber floor coating.
Be sure you allow the hydraulic cement to fully dry before you apply the coating. The hydraulic cement will turn from a dark/moist color to a white/dry color.
Can you dry pour hydroulic cement in a hole then add water?
Hi Dan!
There are post-setting cement mixes that advertise they can work like that, but a general hydraulic cement wouldn't be the best application.
We always profess that it is best to mix your cement before placing/laying it. That way, you can ensure the correct mixture and strength.