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Hi i have 1mm curly beach for a guitar tip that never warped till i moved towns. Not its un usable withought breaking. Ive tried water but just warps back again. Help!
5:50 ''Finish both sides of wide panels like table tops'' Brand new to woodworking here, does this 'finish' generally mean seal or varnish the bottom similarly to how you finish/seal the top. I would guess this could be a top that doesn't get a sealer/varnish etc at all, so bottom doesn't either, or top gets heavy sealer or varnish, so bottom gets the same, maybe to a much lesser extent, but at least sealed using same material?
They say don't meet your heroes. Only ever wanted to meet a couple musicians, a couple folks in the world of pugilistic arts, and you my brother. Walking badass you are James. I appreciate you.
Like all your videos, this was incredible. I’ve been a novice wood worker for years and never felt like I understood wood movement very well until now. Thank you!
I have heard and read many explanations of wood movement, but having it so eloquently and concisely stated here was really useful and worth watching-- thanks!
i have received 2 orders of boards from Baird Brothers and didnt realize why they covered the stock in wrap. NOW i know......how smart was that of them to do such a thing?. Never saw this before.......thanks again for an excellent tutorial.
“Common sense” lol. You are such an expert. I don’t even consider myself a beginner, yet I always learn something from your videos. I really appreciate the knowledge, experience, and information you share. Thank you! As I’m upgrading and reorganizing my shop I do my best to support your sponsors.
Thank you, that was excellent! I'm new to woodworking and I've been having a frustrating time with movement in a small oak table top. Now I have a much better understanding of what's going on. Really great, informative video.
Thank you James. This has been so helpful to me. All these years I was thinking that the crooked boards and twisted boards were due to the lumber yards cutting them imperfectly and selling them that way trying not to waste wood. I guess I didn't consider the issue carefully enough to research warping. But now I've gotten some deeper insight about wood. I guess I've known more about the tools I have used than the object on which they are used. I've never seen anyone teach about how moisture and temperature affects wood to the degree that you have in this video. This is so interesting. Again, thank you. Great job!
Fantastic advice most of us need to hear again, and again as it is easy to take wood for granted and get surprised the next morning! Another Great video, thanks.
So, if you are using 5/4 deck boards, do you attach them bark side down or up to prevent cupping? I have seen arguments on both sides. Thank you for the great video!
Thank You Sir, for that information and insight. It actually helped answer a few questions I've had for awhile now that will help me sort through wood for projects in the future.
So much information here and it's all relevant to making informed decisions when sourcing timber. Of course, I'm going to make some poor choices when I purchase wood but it's going to lessen the those bad choices, thanks to you. Thank You! Allan
Fantastic video! I am new to woodworking and have seen some of my straight pieces become warped and twisted and after watching your video I can almost remember everything I did that might have led to that happening now. Thank you for the great explanations!
Super articulate! I've been having a hard time understanding this concept as a new woodworker, but this helped me a lot! Keep up the good work! (And I subbed a while back ;D)
I noticed that your diagram shows cupping following the rings when it is actually the opposite side cupping upwards. Now that you have explained it so simply it makes sense to me why that is. Thank you.
If you're speaking of the curved arrow I drew next to the flay sawn board, that was just part of the label to say that sort of board would cup. It was not intended to show which direction it would cup. A board can cup in either direction depending on which side is damper. If both sides are equally damp, it is likely to cup away from the center of the tree as the fibers swell equally.
Superb video. My question now is I have a table top which has cupped. I cut and prepared it a few weeks ago, but only now am I ready to fit it. How do I solve the cupping? I don't have an electric planer or jointer. Many thanks
Try laying it in the sun with the crowned side up. If that doesn't work, leave it that way indoors overnight with a fan blowing across it. If you can reduce the moisture in the crowned side, it may flatten out. Just keep an eye on it. You don't want to go too far and cup it in the other direction.
@@StumpyNubs thank you kindly. Gotta say your videos are the best scripted I've seen on RUclips. You relay information very well and are a very good teacher.
so if just used pocket screws or only glue, would the warping in the wood be significant enough to break the joints? also is air dried wood over two years less susceptible to these changes? thanks the the tips!
Pocket screws will hold, just don't cross the grain directions of the two pieces so they can grow wider and narrower together. It doesn't matter how long you dry the lumber, it will still absorb and expel moisture based on the humidity of the air around it.
Great video. I need some advise. If I am making a wood cutting board either end/edge grain and I bevel the board will that prevent cupping or warping? Thanks
So quick question, I had a 2x4 I ripped in half. Then ripped those halves into smaller pieces to make a frame. And all the pieces are warped in various ways. The original piece wasn’t that bad to begin with so idk how the pieces got the way they did. It’s not like they sat on a shelf after.
Thank you,...great channel. Q? If my boards are slightly bowed, would it be best to secure these on my picnic table as the top, with the bowed surface arc up, in other words, the center being higher, and just screw them down, or both ends being up and screw them down? I can't remove the bowing, and its slight but the natural tendency will continue or at least be controlled by securing them. thank you for any feedback.
Building a deck with 3 metre = 12' length 50x150mm = 2x6" treated pine joists back in "96 or so I sighted them lengthways and put the outside of any curve they had to the top because I looked it up. Was good advice as 22 years later it's still flat, but was that precaution related to warping, or just load under gravity?
Hey Buddy, need some of your advise. I am currently restoring some very old but intact teak garden furniture. The table came out well, now doing the collapsible chairs. One of the arm rests has a considerable twist in it, front to back. Lay one end flat, the oblique opposite end is approx 3/4 inch up in the air. The wood is at least 6/8 thick so quite sturdy. Any suggestions how to get that twist out? Thanks 🙏
Even if you could untwist it, it will just re-twist when it dries. If it were the side of a blanket chest, for example, you could flatten it, then use the mechanical joinery (dovetails, dados, etc) to hold it flat. But the arm of a chair will do what it wants to do.
This was a very informative video. I was a little surprised that I didn't understand some of this stuff as well as I thought I did. Thank you. On another topic: dislike like ratios. Wow, as I watch this the don't like ratio was about .3%, that is really small from what I've seen. I'm not sure I've ever noticed a video with over a 1000 likes and only three dislikes.
Great Information. When I cut my wood slats for a wood flag I end up with a few slats that are crooked (don't know why), causing me to not use that wood or if the crook is not too bad to clamp the slats together tight that results in uneven surface, any suggestion on this issue? Thanks.
Great Video!!! I am new to woodworking and currently hanging 1 x 10 knotty pine (assumig it is flatsawn) shiplap acclimated with stickers for at least three days, mostly longer on my shop walls. I learned alot from youtube video's about how to do this and one thing i saw in another video was someone making kerf cuts on the back of the boards to prevent cupping. I may have taken this to literately and began right away cutting length wise kerf cuts into all the back of my boards, about five passes. I think i may have actually caused some cupping from doing this because of my lack of knowledge about how to read the lumber. So , as a rule of thumb , when should i do this and when should i not. I am not finishing either side of the boards as it in my shop and i rather like the smell of the wood. The back of the boards is up against faced insulation and the building is heated and air conditioned in the northeast. Sorry if you may have answered this already in the video and i missed it , i will be looking at it again or more as needed but wanted to get this question to you. Many Thanks
Did you ever get your question answered? Not really sure how to answer your question, but when looking at the ends of boards, my 35 yrs of experience tells me that nearly every board that is cupped or it will want to cup toward a ------- face. Picture these symbols/growth rings horizontal ( or ) and they usually want and will try to flatten out like a straight face. Understand?
One other item. Not all of the lumber you buy is KD. A moisture meter is a nice addition to the shop to give you an idea whether that board you purchased on the Internet is 20 percent MC or a much more workable 8 percent.
HELP! -- I am working on a Live Edge vanity 22 x 72 thickness of 1.5. This is my first ever project dealing with live edge. I was able to find a nice cotton wood slab 3in thickness, and had it planned to 1.5. I bring it home and had it lay flat for 7 days, now I have noticed "twisting" and minor "cupping". So I immediately tried to minimize it by clamping down to my bench top in the hope of straitening it out. I live in Michigan and it is hot and humid in June. Can someone advise me on following: (1) What to do now till I complete the finishing of the slab to bring it back from all twists and cupping - do I need to wrap it in plastic? (2) More Importantly: What should I do to minimize the twisting and cupping on the final product - how should I reinforce it? I appreciate your input and your video is helpful.
OK guess now I know why my fence pickets are warping but they ain't warping too much. It's only visible at night when the fence lights are shining from the top at them. This is normal and I shouldn't worry right ? It's horizontal fence I put together myself.
Hey James, i need some advice and direction. I have a 10' X 3' table top. It is made of 2" x 10" x 10' long Douglas fir . The 10' planks shrunk big time away from the 3' x 2" end piece. I have pictures if you don't mind me sending them to you. I am hoping to remedy this but i may have to build another table from scratch.
Hey. I'm new to milling and I noticed your video here. I just bought a chainsaw mill and plan on milling 2 western larches I fell a couple days ago in a kind've remote area to build a 12 x20 cabin. I've hiked a lot of materials out with a sled (not a snowmobile) including 16 cinder blocks for the foundation of my air drying platform. I've dug out a 4' x 20 rectangle and leveled the cinder blocks but I'm worried that they might shift over time. What would be your thoughts and do you have any advise?. Thanks
I have some hardwood s4s boards and some rough ones in my basement. I wrapped them in plastic and stacked them on top of each other. Is it okay to keep them wrapped in plastic or will this simply trap moisture inside? Just wondering if this will do more harm than good. All of the wood has been kiln dried. Thank you for the great content!
I wrap project parts for a few days to keep them stable. I have never done it long term. I suppose it depends on the moisture in the wood. If it's high, it may mildew. Or it may not. I suppose there's only one way to find out :)
@@StumpyNubs thanks so much for the quick response! I'm thinking I might unwrap all of it and put spacer blocks between each board. I guess it's not worth ruining them. Thanks again!
I once grabbed a perfectly flat, but bowed board from which I wanted to cut a narrower strip. Thinking that it wold be easier to simple put two string lines along it rather than mark a curved line from one edge, I did that and ripped the narrower board out. It immediately bowed in the opposite direction.
Some finishes can help, but nothing eliminates it. Those that seal the board up the most, like poly, look terrible. So it's best to just design the project properly and work with the natural movement rather than trying to prevent it entirely.
Thanks! Quick question for you. I’ll be buying S4S wood from my local hardwood dealer for a project. Should I work with the wood immediately once I get it back home or should I let it acclimate in my house (where it will even be installed) before working on it? I’ve read a lot of mixed reviews so I’m stumped. I’ll be using S4S red oak and I don’t have a jointer or planer. Thanks!
@@StumpyNubs I’m torn. I’m getting a bunch of different answers including minimizing the time between milling and final assembly aka work with it ASAP once you get the wood home. I forgot mention but likely obvious that the wood I’m buying has already been KD I think it’s time you make that acclimatization video :).
By acclimation I mean putting the boards indoors with spacers in between so the moisture levels can come down. This is done before milling them. Milling is a different subject. Yes, you should minimize the time between milling and assembly because the board is always damper on the inside, and when you mill it thinner you expose damper fibers, which then dry out and may cause the board to cup. This is especially a problem if you take a lot more wood of one side of a board than the other. The damper side will dry more than the other side and it will definitely cup. If you mill the boards flat and can't use them the same day, wrap your project parts in a trash bag to keep the air out and help keep the moisture stable.
@@StumpyNubs ahhh okay thanks that makes more sense. So in my instance, the red oak boards have been milled at the lumber yard and are currently at 8-10%from what they told me. I’m using a bunch of 1x3 and 1x4 boards. It’s basically the same as if I bought dressed lumber from the big box stores. I won’t be milling then any further beyond just cutting it down to final dimensions, gluing up some panels for the top and shelves and assembling my project. I’m building a dry bar. Should I still sticker this wood or just work with it ASAP. Sorry if I’m being unclear at all. This is my first woodworking project.
HELP KEEP OUR VIDEOS FREE! Please support those who support us by visiting their websites and having a quick look around-
Fisch Tools: affinitytool.com/brands/fisch
Clear Vue Cyclones (Use coupon code NUBS5):
iGaging Digital Tools: www.chipsfly.com/category/L.html
Hi i have 1mm curly beach for a guitar tip that never warped till i moved towns. Not its un usable withought breaking. Ive tried water but just warps back again. Help!
5:50 ''Finish both sides of wide panels
like table tops''
Brand new to woodworking here, does
this 'finish' generally mean seal
or varnish the bottom similarly to
how you finish/seal the top.
I would guess this could be a top
that doesn't get a sealer/varnish etc
at all,
so bottom doesn't either, or top
gets heavy sealer or varnish, so bottom
gets the same, maybe to a much lesser
extent, but at least sealed using same
material?
Great revision, calm, good sense. Educational, clear and a breath of fresh air vs the excitable lunatics in some other woodwork RUclips channels
I have heard this wood grain lesson explained over a dozen times, but this is hands down the clearest! Kudos.
They say don't meet your heroes. Only ever wanted to meet a couple musicians, a couple folks in the world of pugilistic arts, and you my brother. Walking badass you are James. I appreciate you.
Like all your videos, this was incredible. I’ve been a novice wood worker for years and never felt like I understood wood movement very well until now. Thank you!
I have heard and read many explanations of wood movement, but having it so eloquently and concisely stated here was really useful and worth watching-- thanks!
This should be seen and remembered by all
woodworkers.
I’m a seasoned uk carpenter and this channel blows me away constantly!! Awesome content brother 👍👍
i have received 2 orders of boards from Baird Brothers and didnt realize why they covered the stock in wrap. NOW i know......how smart was that of them to do such a thing?. Never saw this before.......thanks again for an excellent tutorial.
Great explanation! I'm currently straightening an antique table top. Hoping to keep it straight after drying... I'll read your journal! Thanks!
“Common sense” lol. You are such an expert. I don’t even consider myself a beginner, yet I always learn something from your videos. I really appreciate the knowledge, experience, and information you share. Thank you!
As I’m upgrading and reorganizing my shop I do my best to support your sponsors.
Best video on the explanation of wood movement I have ever seen on RUclips!
Excellent video. Thank you.
This is honest and refreshing!
This is great info for newbies and oldies alike. It's a better explanation than anything else I've ever seen. Thanks!
Thanks. First time this novice understood the big picture on wood movement. Please keep up the great videos.
Excellent class instruction from the University of Stumpy Numbs. I needed to take a refresher course. Thanks!
Thank you, that was excellent! I'm new to woodworking and I've been having a frustrating time with movement in a small oak table top. Now I have a much better understanding of what's going on. Really great, informative video.
Thank you James. This has been so helpful to me. All these years I was thinking that the crooked boards and twisted boards were due to the lumber yards cutting them imperfectly and selling them that way trying not to waste wood. I guess I didn't consider the issue carefully enough to research warping. But now I've gotten some deeper insight about wood. I guess I've known more about the tools I have used than the object on which they are used. I've never seen anyone teach about how moisture and temperature affects wood to the degree that you have in this video. This is so interesting. Again, thank you. Great job!
Fantastic advice most of us need to hear again, and again as it is easy to take wood for granted and get surprised the next morning! Another Great video, thanks.
That was the best explanation on wood warpage I've seen. Really enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks. It has been over 40 years since I had woodshop and I have forgotten allot. That really helps.
this man right here is the wood wizard!
iv read lots of information that quarter sawn is better but never heard an explanation why.
So, if you are using 5/4 deck boards, do you attach them bark side down or up to prevent cupping? I have seen arguments on both sides. Thank you for the great video!
Thank You Sir, for that information and insight. It actually helped answer a few questions I've had for awhile now that will help me sort through wood for projects in the future.
So much information here and it's all relevant to making informed decisions when sourcing timber. Of course, I'm going to make some poor choices when I purchase wood but it's going to lessen the those bad choices, thanks to you. Thank You!
Allan
Fantastic video! I am new to woodworking and have seen some of my straight pieces become warped and twisted and after watching your video I can almost remember everything I did that might have led to that happening now. Thank you for the great explanations!
That's some gold! Love your theory sections, helps a ton to understand what's going on
I learnt a lot from this video. Very clear and concise and a definite help with my future projects.
cannot thank you enough for your educational material!!! thank you!!! 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽😊
Very useful! It’s always good to understand, why that stuff happens, not just that it does! 👍
Well presented. Always enjoy your videos
Wow, amazing, incredibly detailed video! Great job man!
Excellent explanations Stumpy! Great job...
I like the straight and direct manner of performance. 👍
Great job Stumpy!
Super articulate! I've been having a hard time understanding this concept as a new woodworker, but this helped me a lot! Keep up the good work! (And I subbed a while back ;D)
I noticed that your diagram shows cupping following the rings when it is actually the opposite side cupping upwards. Now that you have explained it so simply it makes sense to me why that is. Thank you.
If you're speaking of the curved arrow I drew next to the flay sawn board, that was just part of the label to say that sort of board would cup. It was not intended to show which direction it would cup. A board can cup in either direction depending on which side is damper. If both sides are equally damp, it is likely to cup away from the center of the tree as the fibers swell equally.
Great video and great information, thanks!
Well ain't that something. Everything I was taught about board movement, cupping, selection and arrangement... Was wrong. Thank you for this.
Wonderful video and great explanation. Many thanks James!
Great video thank you for all your tips they really come in handy for someone like me who is self-taught and taught from other RUclips videos
Very well explained !!!
Thanks !
Seen number of your videos. Excellent!!! Thank you
Great video! It is packed with high quality, useful information. Thank you.
Great lesson. Very thorough. Thanks for sharing.
Superb video. My question now is I have a table top which has cupped. I cut and prepared it a few weeks ago, but only now am I ready to fit it. How do I solve the cupping? I don't have an electric planer or jointer. Many thanks
Try laying it in the sun with the crowned side up. If that doesn't work, leave it that way indoors overnight with a fan blowing across it. If you can reduce the moisture in the crowned side, it may flatten out. Just keep an eye on it. You don't want to go too far and cup it in the other direction.
@@StumpyNubs thank you kindly. Gotta say your videos are the best scripted I've seen on RUclips. You relay information very well and are a very good teacher.
Once you hear that cricket, it doesn't go away. But real talk, great video. Thanks for making this.
Excellent advices, out of the box subject.Thank you.
so if just used pocket screws or only glue, would the warping in the wood be significant enough to break the joints? also is air dried wood over two years less susceptible to these changes? thanks the the tips!
Pocket screws will hold, just don't cross the grain directions of the two pieces so they can grow wider and narrower together. It doesn't matter how long you dry the lumber, it will still absorb and expel moisture based on the humidity of the air around it.
Excellent content. It explained so much , very simply without dragging out through a long video. Subscribed
Thank you, very good instruction.
Great video. I need some advise. If I am making a wood cutting board either end/edge grain and I bevel the board will that prevent cupping or warping? Thanks
No
Been watching your videos and they always has good info! I'm a subscriber now.
An excellent tutorial! Good, clear, and concise explanatation. Thanks.
Excellent explanation of wood movement.
Great video. Less than 1 minute then into it.Thanks.
Great video! Now set to install stair treads properly.
Very good information amigo
So quick question, I had a 2x4 I ripped in half. Then ripped those halves into smaller pieces to make a frame. And all the pieces are warped in various ways. The original piece wasn’t that bad to begin with so idk how the pieces got the way they did. It’s not like they sat on a shelf after.
Thank you,...great channel. Q? If my boards are slightly bowed, would it be best to secure these on my picnic table as the top, with the bowed surface arc up, in other words, the center being higher, and just screw them down, or both ends being up and screw them down? I can't remove the bowing, and its slight but the natural tendency will continue or at least be controlled by securing them.
thank you for any feedback.
Excellent informative presentation - well done James - many thanks
Building a deck with 3 metre = 12' length 50x150mm = 2x6" treated pine joists back in "96 or so I sighted them lengthways and put the outside of any curve they had to the top because I looked it up. Was good advice as 22 years later it's still flat, but was that precaution related to warping, or just load under gravity?
Hey Buddy, need some of your advise. I am currently restoring some very old but intact teak garden furniture. The table came out well, now doing the collapsible chairs. One of the arm rests has a considerable twist in it, front to back. Lay one end flat, the oblique opposite end is approx 3/4 inch up in the air. The wood is at least 6/8 thick so quite sturdy. Any suggestions how to get that twist out? Thanks 🙏
Even if you could untwist it, it will just re-twist when it dries. If it were the side of a blanket chest, for example, you could flatten it, then use the mechanical joinery (dovetails, dados, etc) to hold it flat. But the arm of a chair will do what it wants to do.
This was a very informative video. I was a little surprised that I didn't understand some of this stuff as well as I thought I did. Thank you. On another topic: dislike like ratios. Wow, as I watch this the don't like ratio was about .3%, that is really small from what I've seen. I'm not sure I've ever noticed a video with over a 1000 likes and only three dislikes.
Great Information. When I cut my wood slats for a wood flag I end up with a few slats that are crooked (don't know why), causing me to not use that wood or if the crook is not too bad to clamp the slats together tight that results in uneven surface, any suggestion on this issue? Thanks.
Great Video!!! I am new to woodworking and currently hanging 1 x 10 knotty pine (assumig it is flatsawn) shiplap acclimated with stickers for at least three days, mostly longer on my shop walls. I learned alot from youtube video's about how to do this and one thing i saw in another video was someone making kerf cuts on the back of the boards to prevent cupping. I may have taken this to literately and began right away cutting length wise kerf cuts into all the back of my boards, about five passes. I think i may have actually caused some cupping from doing this because of my lack of knowledge about how to read the lumber. So , as a rule of thumb , when should i do this and when should i not. I am not finishing either side of the boards as it in my shop and i rather like the smell of the wood. The back of the boards is up against faced insulation and the building is heated and air conditioned in the northeast. Sorry if you may have answered this already in the video and i missed it , i will be looking at it again or more as needed but wanted to get this question to you. Many Thanks
Did you ever get your question answered? Not really sure how to answer your question, but when looking at the ends of boards, my 35 yrs of experience tells me that nearly every board that is cupped or it will want to cup toward a ------- face. Picture these symbols/growth rings horizontal ( or ) and they usually want and will try to flatten out like a straight face. Understand?
A F C (( not the congressman A O C )) Away From Center. and yes, like it's flattening out. it cups away from center
One other item. Not all of the lumber you buy is KD. A moisture meter is a nice addition to the shop to give you an idea whether that board you purchased on the Internet is 20 percent MC or a much more workable 8 percent.
If i paint on one side of 1x6 baseboard, will it cup away from the paint or will on the side that paint been applied. Water base pirmer and paint
Great Video, thank you for sharing
HELP! -- I am working on a Live Edge vanity 22 x 72 thickness of 1.5. This is my first ever project dealing with live edge. I was able to find a nice cotton wood slab 3in thickness, and had it planned to 1.5. I bring it home and had it lay flat for 7 days, now I have noticed "twisting" and minor "cupping". So I immediately tried to minimize it by clamping down to my bench top in the hope of straitening it out. I live in Michigan and it is hot and humid in June. Can someone advise me on following:
(1) What to do now till I complete the finishing of the slab to bring it back from all twists and cupping - do I need to wrap it in plastic?
(2) More Importantly: What should I do to minimize the twisting and cupping on the final product - how should I reinforce it?
I appreciate your input and your video is helpful.
Very interesting. Nice video James!
Best explanation I got, thank you!
OK guess now I know why my fence pickets are warping but they ain't warping too much. It's only visible at night when the fence lights are shining from the top at them. This is normal and I shouldn't worry right ? It's horizontal fence I put together myself.
Your fence is subjected to extreme changes in moisture from cycles of sun and rain. It's simply going to warp over time.
Hey James, i need some advice and direction. I have a 10' X 3' table top. It is made of 2" x 10" x 10' long Douglas fir . The 10' planks shrunk big time away from the 3' x 2" end piece. I have pictures if you don't mind me sending them to you. I am hoping to remedy this but i may have to build another table from scratch.
Hey. I'm new to milling and I noticed your video here. I just bought a chainsaw mill and plan on milling 2 western larches I fell a couple days ago in a kind've remote area to build a 12 x20 cabin. I've hiked a lot of materials out with a sled (not a snowmobile) including 16 cinder blocks for the foundation of my air drying platform. I've dug out a 4' x 20 rectangle and leveled the cinder blocks but I'm worried that they might shift over time. What would be your thoughts and do you have any advise?. Thanks
Very well done sir!
Thank you so much for this information...It is VERY helpful...
Excellent. Even I can understand this. Thank you!
Stumpy Nubs ! Ha that is the best channel name i've ever seen
Excellent content!
I have some hardwood s4s boards and some rough ones in my basement. I wrapped them in plastic and stacked them on top of each other. Is it okay to keep them wrapped in plastic or will this simply trap moisture inside? Just wondering if this will do more harm than good. All of the wood has been kiln dried. Thank you for the great content!
I wrap project parts for a few days to keep them stable. I have never done it long term. I suppose it depends on the moisture in the wood. If it's high, it may mildew. Or it may not. I suppose there's only one way to find out :)
@@StumpyNubs thanks so much for the quick response! I'm thinking I might unwrap all of it and put spacer blocks between each board. I guess it's not worth ruining them. Thanks again!
Could you explain why the pith of a board would be the most unstable?
great advice James
I once grabbed a perfectly flat, but bowed board from which I wanted to cut a narrower strip. Thinking that it wold be easier to simple put two string lines along it rather than mark a curved line from one edge, I did that and ripped the narrower board out. It immediately bowed in the opposite direction.
Are surface coatings capable of eliminating absorption and desorption?
Which surface coatings are the best and the worst?
Some finishes can help, but nothing eliminates it. Those that seal the board up the most, like poly, look terrible. So it's best to just design the project properly and work with the natural movement rather than trying to prevent it entirely.
Thanks - My favorite coating is Shellac. Stumpy Nubs
Excellent video!!
Thanks for the great video James!
Good stuff
Very informative
Thanks! Quick question for you.
I’ll be buying S4S wood from my local hardwood dealer for a project.
Should I work with the wood immediately once I get it back home or should I let it acclimate in my house (where it will even be installed) before working on it? I’ve read a lot of mixed reviews so I’m stumped.
I’ll be using S4S red oak and I don’t have a jointer or planer. Thanks!
Let it acclimate a week or so
@@StumpyNubs I’m torn. I’m getting a bunch of different answers including minimizing the time between milling and final assembly aka work with it ASAP once you get the wood home.
I forgot mention but likely obvious that the wood I’m buying has already been KD
I think it’s time you make that acclimatization video :).
By acclimation I mean putting the boards indoors with spacers in between so the moisture levels can come down. This is done before milling them. Milling is a different subject. Yes, you should minimize the time between milling and assembly because the board is always damper on the inside, and when you mill it thinner you expose damper fibers, which then dry out and may cause the board to cup. This is especially a problem if you take a lot more wood of one side of a board than the other. The damper side will dry more than the other side and it will definitely cup. If you mill the boards flat and can't use them the same day, wrap your project parts in a trash bag to keep the air out and help keep the moisture stable.
@@StumpyNubs ahhh okay thanks that makes more sense.
So in my instance, the red oak boards have been milled at the lumber yard and are currently at 8-10%from what they told me. I’m using a bunch of 1x3 and 1x4 boards. It’s basically the same as if I bought dressed lumber from the big box stores.
I won’t be milling then any further beyond just cutting it down to final dimensions, gluing up some panels for the top and shelves and assembling my project. I’m building a dry bar. Should I still sticker this wood or just work with it ASAP.
Sorry if I’m being unclear at all. This is my first woodworking project.
You want 6-8% for interior furniture. I'd let it sit inside for a while.
#1 Cause of break downs in bro-friendships: Which way you should turn the growth rings on a board to prevent cupping when laying decking.
thanks, helpful. I think I know why my last glued up table top panel cupped now....
Excellent, thanks...
Great Info as usual James. Thanks
Fascinating and useful. Thanks!
Great information as always!!!!!
i subbed after seeing this video just found this channel this week.
great video and solid advice.
Excellent info. Thanks!
Using this in class with my H.S. students for sure!
If woodworking doesn't pan out for James, he has a future in textbook diagram illustration for sure!