You guys are totally right! The actual printing speed of the M5 will definitely be further limited by acceleration. As I mentioned, the 5X speed advertised is mostly a marketing gimmick but acceleration is another important limiting factor to consider. A misstep on my part!
@@darith27 total tech will still cover this! No matter what for replacement for 2 years. I’m a manager I promise you this Darith. Thanks for being a meme bee if you are one. But yeah speak to any manager there. They’ll tell you it’s cover for replacement for electronics damages.
@@Mewtwo-xi5og it was never the best option. It was the cheapest option. Now everyone else makes a slightly better one, and creality makes a lot of much more expensive ones that are still flawed in the same ways. Sovol Sv06 is a decent printer.
The truth is, the public doesn't have a "3D printer," it's essentially a *3D Element Solder* machine. And why it's so slow. To actually do a "3D printing." It must solder in a full strip line at any one sliding longitude/latitude/altitude flow per layer make.
Hi, great video, I just wanted to clarify one thing. When you talk about speed you have to take into consideration acceleration too. Even if you set a speed of 250mm/s if you printer is limited by low accelerations, it will never reach that speed. Another thing to keep in mind, especially for vase mode, is layer time. Usually the slicer makes the printer move slow enough to give time to the layer to cool down before printing the next one. This could influence the real printing speed. In general it is a great machine, considering his cartesian kinematics
Dude your videos are so insanly high quality, keep up the work man! It's always a pleasure to watch. Stay consistant and your audience will 100% catch up to your quality
If you want to print large items, it’s also worth looking into setting up a little print farm (3 or 4 of the same printer) as opposed to investing in a single (expensive) printer that claims to do it all lightning fast. Different advantages to both for sure, but worth considering.
Print farms are a pain in the ass unless the printers have auto levelling so your going to end up spending a bit more anyway unless you feel like messing with bltouch sensors.
@@acorgiwithacrown467 I don't have any auto leveling on my 4 ender 3's and haven't touched the level in well over 3 months using them daily. I did remove the springs and make the base semi rigid though using silicon spacers.
The z offset requirement on your ender 3 is because the probe is separate from the nozzle. On the anchor make it uses the nozzle itself for probing so it knows exactly what The z offset is already.
You should look into a bamboo labs printer. The p1p is around the same price and offers 10x the printing speeds at good quality. And the x1 has the ai features that work for the most part.
I may add the Ankermate to a fleet of printers at some point, but I gotta say, I love the versatility of the Ender series (or any printer based on generic aluminum extrusions in general). There is just more customizability in those printers with a HUGE following an support. I'd be interested in the future upgradability for Anker printers.
Have in mind that acceleration and minimum layer time are just as important as mm/s. TPU can print fast. I have a video showing of 300mm/s I believe but have bin printing at 400mm/s. The flow are the limiting factor.
Hey Matt as a fellow Canadian I just wanted to let you know Bott Grinder just mentioned you as one of the most honest FPV you tubers and hoped everything was ok with you as do I.. you are who I watch the most getting into FPV . Where did you go?
Havn't finished watching it but came here to say you should try the BambuLabs X1 Carbon or even P1P. I think the P1P is more in this price range (actually cheaper) and better.
100% Anker's biggest mistake is staying with a bed slinger. This limits the speed of tall thin objects. My X1C is incredible, and has changed my entire perspective on 3d printing- and I've been printing for over 10 years! Started with a Solidoodle.
@@Jwmbike14 same! Been printing for 10 years now. I went from a wooden Replicator and finally "upgraded" to a Duplicator i3 machine a few years ago because it was $100 and found that was a bigger problem than i would have thought. Not only that it also moves the parts through the air, effectively cooling parts when you don't want to. Learned even though it could print at 120mm/s at first it would have to be lowered the higher and heavier the print gets. While my old Replicator could print at 160mm/s perfectly (when printing via USB, offloading the board processing). I picked up a Creality Sermoon D1 last year for $275, on clearance and open box. Going back to a solid bed had made prints far better since. Far more predictable prints and i can run it at 250mm/s 2,500 acceleration without an issue. Anything faster and the board can't keep up, needs faster electronics. I generally run it at 200mm/s 1,000 acceleration to keep it quiet, can barely hear it outside the closet it lives in. *Should note tons of custom mods done to my old Replicator
Fantastic video man! First time seeing any of your content and wow! really nicely done! Also fully agree with everything you said here about the M5 - rocksolid printer but man oh man does that AI detection stink.
We are exactly the same right now. Never seen Matt's content and it is very high quality! AnkerMake is working on AI detection, thankfully. At least it isnt really really needed. M5 doesnt really fail often
I just got my third printer. First was a BIQU B1, second Ender 3 Max, and now Ender 3 V3 SE. The V3 has all these features at a fraction of the cost. It prints fast enough it made me wonder if the filament had time to stick. My print speed is 180 consistently. I’m thoroughly impressed with the Ender 3 V3 SE.
I've had 3 Creality machines. They are good for a few months, MAYBE a year. Then the sub par stuff starts to break and wear out. The M5 is a totally different machine. That entire base is cast aluminum. It's more rigid than any printer I've ever experienced.
This was a really great/well-done video. I'm just getting into 3D printing myself and this video really helped as well as answered a lot of my initial questions.
Hey! Just wanted to give a quick warning. When you touch the build plate (as you did a few times in this video) it can screw with the bed adhesion for a print unless you clean it.
The Ankermake can do 500 mm/s2, while a Creality K1 series can do up to 600 mm/s2, while also having the AI Camera on the K1C and Max, and being an Optional add on on the base K1, and being enclosed and with other features.
I didn’t know ankermake send their 3d printer premiere out to test for free by average persons (your own words.) I do appreciate your uploaded information, so thanks for sharing!
Matt, I work in IT asset management, and we were impacted by the chip shortage, where sub contractors kept moving ship dates due to COVID. This makes sense that Anker had these issues around the same time. Totally not their fault. You can't get blood from a stone.
It would be nice if the slicer could detect difficult spots and automatically print those portions of the print slower so you get the advantages of the increased speed whilst not compromising on quality and less risk of failed prints. Unless thats already a thing and I've just never noticed it lol
The auto bed level corrects issues like this by micro-lifting and lowering around the build plate. As everything wears down you need to auto level regularly. Its like how the Bambu X1C take 10 minutes to start it's prints, which thank god you can turn off... AnkerMake simply doesn't force you to do it.
@@echo-hotel Thats not really what I'm talking about, more so the printer would slow down and maybe print at different layer heights automatically for certain areas of a print. Like it'll print large simple sections of a figurine quickly then slow down for the face.
@@acorgiwithacrown467 You're looking for the variable layer height setting. Otherwise slowing down is just your accelerations: it won't reach high speeds before it has to decelerate. Of course, nothing stops you from slapping on modifiers that set reduced speeds and accelerations for a given print area...
5:50 The stepper motor on the Y axis is the same as the ender 5 pro I have. You can put a dual y axis belt mod on any ender 3. Linear rails instead of pom wheels are a much better way to spend your money.
We have 2 M5's and a full-blown Ultimate s5. I would rather use the M5! Ankermaker did a wonderful job at design, materials, and manufacturing. Their slicer to print over wifi works great. I hope they make a bigger enclosed model for ABS and other high temp plastics.
4:43 literally every printer has the extrude and retract feature. With Klipper it’s just a simple with their web based UI and you can do it from your cell phone from across your house.
My new workhorse is my M5 and little one M5C. I've had a couple of problem with my machines, but Ankermake Service Support teams worked hard to correct any problems.
The default settings on a Bambu X1C only top out at 300 mm/s for PLA and I can assure you the actual speed is MUCH faster than what you show here. Recently tried upping the Bambu's acceleration to 20,000 mm/s^2 from the default 10,000 mm/s^2. Acceleration is the real key to speed, and a bed slinger will NEVER even come close to a CoreXY or Delta, just look at the mass it has to move on the Y? or is it X? axis and the motor it has to move it with - and this changes as you add more mass to the printbed. I'm not aware of any slicer settings that let you slow down acceleration as more mass is laid on the bed, but my CR10 could easily carry several kilograms of plastic on a 300x300x400mm print. Acceleration at 20,000 mm/s^2 makes a Bambu sound roughly like an A10 Warthog chewing through a column of tanks, except MUCH MORE TERRIFYING SOUNDING. Not kidding at all. Sounded like missed steps at that speed, but I tried this on WildRoseBuilds' test cube and the result was perfect, so no, it wasn't missing steps. I just don't want to be in the room when it is printing at that speed. Running some numbers, at 20k acceleration, to slow from 300mm/s and reverse back up to 300mm/s, takes 30 milliseconds. In the time it takes to stop from full speed (300mm/s), the printhead covers 2.25mm. I looked up the CR-10S Pro profile in Simplify3D & it's saying 500mm/s^2 in XY and 100 in Z. 1/40th of the Bambu acceleration! 0 to 300mm/s takes 0.6 seconds on the CR-10, if it could even do it. It takes 90mm to ramp up and 90mm to ramp back down, which for a 300x300 bed, gives you 180mm averaging half-speed (best case) and 120mm at top speed. Given most parts and infill patterns are a lot shorter strokes than this, you can see the print speed is not getting up to the rates they are talking about.
For the AI detection, add a poster-board behind the printer as a 'Quiet Background' to give it a better chance of accurate detection You may need to play with colors, rinse and repeat.
My first working* printer, the DreamMaker Overlord Pro(Deltaprinter), from 2016 printed at 100mm/s according to the official specs, but you could push it higher if you didn't care for finish.(150mm/s was possible) Oh, and it did sensorless bedlevelling... And since it was a Delta printer with Bowden type extruder, it could accellerate like nothing else. I'm currently rebuilding it... slowly, very slowly, and hoping for higher speeds. *The Mendel Prusa I built a few years before out of printed parts and threaded rods... never really worked properly.
This video comes across something like an ad. The bed slinging kinematic system, especially with a large heavy bed like this, is the hardest to make fast, and certainly not 5x faster out of the box. Having a "print speed" of 150 instead of 30 is not "5x faster" because the limiting factor is acceleration, and most of the time that giant bed will be moving less than 50 mm/s with typical acceleration settings suitable for it.
While it's a nice looking printer, it definitely feels like a big swing and a miss. You can get an Ender 3 S1 pro for $500 cad cheaper. With that savings you can buy a Wyze cam to check on your prints and still have $450 left over to buy filament. It just seems to me like Anker spent too much on getting this up and running and are trying to recoup their money by overcharging their customers. Either way great video Matt, happy to see you're making content again.
Well, yes you can get better perfomance for cheaper, but definitly not get better user experience for new 3d printing noobs. This 3d printer is geared for new people, you will definitly not get even get 150 mm/s without a lot of tinkering, flow calibration, linear advance and pressure advance tuning etc. Also this one is made to look good to consumers, not just for makers. So while it definitly isnt made for you and me, i dont think its a useless product. Its like a prusa, where you pay 1000€ for a normal bedslinger with outdated hardware, but get decent user Xp aswell.
@@aepfelpfluecker what? For that money you can get a prusa, and there’s nothing more reliable (and has an better out of the box experience) than one of their printers…
@@erebostd The Prusa i3 MK3s+ is a solid printer but the build-it-yourself kit cost $799, as much at the M5. That kit takes 6-8 hours to assemble, assuming the person doing the assembly has some basic mechanical skills. The M5 takes 10-20 minutes to set up and comes with an extra build plate, Prusa will send a second plate for an extra 35-40 bucks. I don't hate Prusa printers and for a long time they were king of the hill but they really haven't been innovating the last 4-5 years and their new large format printer has been plagued with delays and they refuse to release important information about specs and performance. Just to clarify they are taking money, 2000-4000 dollars on pre-orders, and haven't even told people the expected performance of the machine yet.
@@JaredCoiner if the reliability isn’t your concern, I’d get the P1P. It’s faster and has a better print quality than the ankermake. In my view the ankermake has competition on both ends. Prusa if you want a workhorse, and the P1P if you want fast, good prints… ruclips.net/video/5uBBnHZ080w/видео.html
You should try BambuLab machines - they're faster and more advanced. Print quality is also incredible. Comparing features to AnkerMake, Bambulab is a stiff competitor that seems to have won out.
You didn't mention how long did it take to print benchy on new machine. Was it 5 times faster?? Matt, you are missing a huge point when you are talking about the printing speed. You can set whatever speed you want but acceleration is a major limiting factor and on small prints such as benchy or other test prints you demonstrated it will never reach the desired speed. And mentioned acceleration for the printer up to 2500mm/s is actually pretty low for "fast printer". Also if you are talking about fast printing you must mention whether there are resonance compensation as this is new standard now. Another missing point is extrusion volume, but at low speeds which were demonstrated its not an issue. Also in slicer speeds for different types of lines are different. External perimeters, inner perimeters, infill etc, and they are usually by default significantly lower than basic speed. Anyway, try to print at 150mm/s for every line type with acceleration at least above 5000mm/s^2.
Looks good with loads of features and nearly no setup but too expensive unfortunately. Tip for starting out in CAD: if your designing a model with some tolerance needed just print out a section of the print to test, eg for your phone holder you could print like 10-15mm height of the model to check phone fits well first. 😊
Quick question. I'm new to 3D printing. But something you said in this video got me thinking. You mentioned how it is possible to have defects in your print, or even an outright failure. I'm not sure if these are always from a bad design or something literally just going wrong in the print execution process. But in case of bad design I don't see why someone couldn't develop a print simulator. Something that goes through the motions of printing the design electronically only (not physically). In that way it would only take a few seconds to complete because it is only limited by the speed of the processor and memory.
Hey just a heads up, infill isn't super important! You set that camera mount thing to 20% but could have kept it at 5% and would've printed fine, lightning infill is also always an option, just a heads up!
@@Terandium no actually, it isn't not sure how long you've been printing but I've been doing it for quite some time, infill is literally only important on functioning parts, and even then you don't need a ton of it, for smaller parts you should on ever really need 50% ish but when your doing prototypes or just desk pieces you can go for 5% and the prints will be practically the same.
@@skellcy7135 ah yeah for models it aint, I mostly print functional parts for selling. So I need it to be quite strong as not everyone inc postal services are very soft to the touch
my skirt and first layer are at 60mms then the rest of the print is 120mms. i use .4 and .6mm nozzles depending on how big the print is. I use the same settings on 2 printers. i have a longer lk4 pro (ender 3) and a longer lk5 pro (cr10). the lk5 pro will print way faster than the lk4 pro because it has the extra supports that significantly stiffen up the z "tower". and i have all upgraded steppers and dual z steppers. But i leave the settings the same so the files are interchangeable. Even with the bigger bed of the lk5 i can use lk4 files itll just be off center when it prints. i have a ton of upgrades but even stock both of my printers were great. there is absolutely no need to buy expensive printers when there are amazing cheap(ish) printers that exist.
3:18 build plates are super easy to find online in a wide variety materials I don’t know why he said it was super difficult to find a replacement but that is just not the case.
This looks like a huge step forward in speed and performance, even though the AI is unfinished. But, at 4 TIMES the price I paid for my Ender 3 ($200 shipped), at $800, this is not affordable for most people. RUclips channel CHEP, has made different printing profiles that significantly speed up the time it takes to print with an Ender 3! Quality is still good too. These profiles may make an 8 hour print take 4.5 hours, so significantly less time and still reasonable quality. Several options too. Highly suggested!!!! 😎🤘 What a great review, Matt! Nicely done and so detailed! 👍
Have you never used the Bambu Labs X1? Out of the box prints more than twice as fast- SUPER easy to use! I've had one print fail due to using Carbon PLA and bad layer adhesion for complicated support structure. Would really recommend it
The latest firmware update has changed the AI a lot and it has gotten way better. Also, low light with black filament gives lots of false readings with the AI. This machine is my go-to machine ... as a matter of fact we just bought a second one.
@@Draxi_1 Normal "DIY toys" are made in much the same way: V-rollers on a V-slot, uprights. Anker has a downside in lacking an anchored-down bed, although for a bedslinger the sheer mass of the bed should be enough to keep it in the slots. For this price an enthusiast machine would be expected to supply a superior motion system, either linear rods (Prusa) or for more modern lineages, linear rails. Both are more rigid, reduce vibration and oscillation, thus requiring less input shaping effort and allowing higher speeds at lower maintenance and higher precision than V-rollers. Someone competent enough to need 8 printers in a farm will almost certainly have the know-how to ensure an Ender 3 to be reliable. Besides, when it comes to proprietaries, for 800 bucks you can have the Bambulabs P1P, a CoreXY machine with a much higher speed ceiling and overall capabilities than the Ankermake. It's able to hang up there with the RepRaps like the Vorons, VZBots, or Ratrigs in speed and quality. M5... Just cannot keep up with that, it's the fundamental limitation of the Carthesian bedslinger system. It also has to pick a fight with another bedslinger in Prusa Mk.4 now, which is a superior offering in every way.
I know a lot of people don't buy the speed thing but go try printing a benchy at 250m/s on an ender 3. Even with tweaking settings and machine mods it's difficult.
do you use tolerance when printing? I am new to printing, but I have been learning about things like interference and clearance fits and the classes they have. If you look up these charts, you can try and make parts to work with the real world with as little mistakes as possible. These charts however are mainly for holes and shafts and you have to keep in mind the values you see for the tolerance are for thousanths of an inch. Even if the printer were to print something that has exactly the nominal dimentions you instruct, having the same interior diameter of a holder with the same exterior diamter of the thing that is being held will create a very snug press fit and that isnt even taking into account the horrizontal expansion of 3d printing. I think it is enough to be of concern when fitting objects together. If you try these maybe the mistakes will be lessened
I always print at around 40 mm/s or even slower. For example, if I want to print something that takes 3 hours, there is no big difference if I print at 120 mm/s or 80 mm/s, it's just 1 or 2 hours faster. However, the printing quality is perfect.
That's because you print small things. And your acceleration is also not high enough. You may as well try printing at 1000mm/s, it'll never hit that speed with small parts + low accelerations.
A smart thing they could do to improve the AI would be a feedback system fro custom printing. Think like Tesla FSD. My suggestion is to allow connecting a mobile phone to it. Let the user report back failed printings. Submit the recording -- at least the beginning of the failure -- back. I'm sure many of the customers would like to support improving the printer by doing this extra work. It's a community, I guess! Just an idea!
Imagine being in the middle of getting it on and your printer is like"Hey!!! Hey Fred!!! We got some spaghetti over here you may wanna take a look at this!!! 👀"
Managed to get my Ender 3 v3 to go slightly above this printers, max printing speed completely stock somehow. and the print quality has not been affected.
I find it funny how people are astounded by some new printers' speeds, while my 11 year old *wooden* little Ultimaker 1.0 blasts higher speeds than many at absolutely insane quality that left many of my Prusa MK3+ owning friends lost for words - down to 0.04mm layers in minute details :)
You can turn of the AI feature in the slicer under Settings/General. If you do that you won't be bothered with the notifications and a bigger plus for me is that the printer doesn't pause to initialize the first layer. I got my M5 in december and I'm loving it so far. I really like that Ankermake is listening to the users, they pushed out several firmware updates that solved a lot of minor issues and I don't really care about the AI-function anyway to be honest. Hopefully they start shipping the V6 color engine soon, I'm way more interested in that.
@@jamesharris9894 The big reason for me to back the kickstarter was that it looked like a plug and play printer. Since I'm new to 3d printing I was looking for something that just worked out of the box. It was the first time I ever invested in a kickstarter project. But I own several Anker products and they are all top quality and after it featured on Linus I pulled the trigger. Ordered the V6 color engine as well. And I have to say. Apart from the AI-feature not working (yet). I has been a really pleasant experience so far. The printer is set up in less then 10 minutes. The hardware is top quality and I really like the wifi functionality and the auto- bed leveling. But most importantly, most stl files I find online are printed perfectly and fast with just the default settings. It has been very reliable thusfar. Sure, I had some failed prints and there are a few things that can be improved upon but they delivered on the most important thing for me and that is ease of use. I received my printer in december, had it running in half an hour, and it has been printing almost non-stop since then without any need for adjustment. It still uses the first nozzle and the magnetic plate does not have a scratch on it. So far I am really happy with my M5
But you will have to tune that yourself. This printer is already set up for it, hence the price. If your new to 3d printing and dont like tinkering, i would choose that one or the bambulab p1p, if not, you can always get a cheapo ender 3 and mod it to the max. Both viable options imo
@@aepfelpfluecker A stock ender 3 can print as fast as this for 500 GDP less. Its not like its difficult either, you can increase performance dramatically by just upping acceleration in the firmware. This printer is a literal money grab and is not defendable in any way.
Even without reviewing it, a mention of the BambuLab P1P would have added value to this video since it's actually delivering on speed at the same price. The Anker Make doesn't exist in a vacuum.
If TPU standard speed is 20 and the Ankermake does it at 100...it's still 5x speed, just not 250mm/s. It's not really false advertisement, just generally vague.
7:12 Dude your average Ender 3 goes the exact same speed. Go on cura and set your ender 3 to 80mm/s. Same print quality. Just goes as fast as this does. I think its acceleration that matters the most in these printers
You fed filament into the extruder on the side, it did come with a small peoce of Capricorn tube which does imply direct drive, but that doesn't look like direct drive based on how its loaded on the side of the printer like that
You do load into the side, that's where the breakage / runout sensor is, but the extrusion gearing isn't IN the side, it's in the head itself. There's about a 7-cm travel path from the mechanism through a short ptfe tube and the heatbreak to the tip of the nozzle.
You guys are totally right! The actual printing speed of the M5 will definitely be further limited by acceleration. As I mentioned, the 5X speed advertised is mostly a marketing gimmick but acceleration is another important limiting factor to consider. A misstep on my part!
Too bad they dont sell at bestbuy under the total tech warranty!
@@darith27 total tech will still cover this! No matter what for replacement for 2 years. I’m a manager I promise you this Darith. Thanks for being a meme bee if you are one. But yeah speak to any manager there. They’ll tell you it’s cover for replacement for electronics damages.
i was looking for a good beginner printer, do you still think the ender is the best or are there any other options?
@@Mewtwo-xi5og it was never the best option. It was the cheapest option. Now everyone else makes a slightly better one, and creality makes a lot of much more expensive ones that are still flawed in the same ways.
Sovol Sv06 is a decent printer.
The truth is, the public doesn't have a "3D printer," it's essentially a *3D Element Solder* machine. And why it's so slow. To actually do a "3D printing." It must solder in a full strip line at any one sliding longitude/latitude/altitude flow per layer make.
Please come back, your videos are amazing!
Yeah Matt, I loved your videos! Come back plz.
The fact that I can make things out of thin air whenever I need them is a dream from my childhood come true. How fast it happens just isn't a factor.
So true
Hi, great video, I just wanted to clarify one thing. When you talk about speed you have to take into consideration acceleration too. Even if you set a speed of 250mm/s if you printer is limited by low accelerations, it will never reach that speed. Another thing to keep in mind, especially for vase mode, is layer time. Usually the slicer makes the printer move slow enough to give time to the layer to cool down before printing the next one. This could influence the real printing speed.
In general it is a great machine, considering his cartesian kinematics
Dude your videos are so insanly high quality, keep up the work man! It's always a pleasure to watch. Stay consistant and your audience will 100% catch up to your quality
Bot
@@cayden2407 no monkey business
If you want to print large items, it’s also worth looking into setting up a little print farm (3 or 4 of the same printer) as opposed to investing in a single (expensive) printer that claims to do it all lightning fast. Different advantages to both for sure, but worth considering.
Print farms are a pain in the ass unless the printers have auto levelling so your going to end up spending a bit more anyway unless you feel like messing with bltouch sensors.
@@acorgiwithacrown467 I don't have any auto leveling on my 4 ender 3's and haven't touched the level in well over 3 months using them daily. I did remove the springs and make the base semi rigid though using silicon spacers.
@@Smokinjoewhite For simple stuff its not an issue, anything complex and eventually you're going to run into issues.
Id rather have more printers
@@acorgiwithacrown467 also not true! I've done many "complex" prints without issues
Hey Matt, we miss ya. Your videos are so clear, helpful and interesting. Hope your doin well
Just what happen?
Glad to see a new video of you again.
I don’t know you that long but man this quality and effort you put into your videos is insane
The z offset requirement on your ender 3 is because the probe is separate from the nozzle. On the anchor make it uses the nozzle itself for probing so it knows exactly what The z offset is already.
You should look into a bamboo labs printer. The p1p is around the same price and offers 10x the printing speeds at good quality. And the x1 has the ai features that work for the most part.
Elon musk
I personally own an X1C and can confirm it is the best printer I have ever used. Also the base speed is higher then what we are seeing here.
They are also a lot bigger, and the P1P is $100 cheaper. This printer gets absolutely blown out of the water by both.
@@HarryPorpise yep there’s a reason the Bambu labs printers are being used by literally everyone. They’ve change the entire industry.
10x the speed of M5? No. Don't get me wrong, P1P is great and mighty actually be a better choice but it is NOT 10x faster.
The content of this video is great, but the editi is SO far beyond amazing and seriously helps convey your points.
I may add the Ankermate to a fleet of printers at some point, but I gotta say, I love the versatility of the Ender series (or any printer based on generic aluminum extrusions in general). There is just more customizability in those printers with a HUGE following an support. I'd be interested in the future upgradability for Anker printers.
Have in mind that acceleration and minimum layer time are just as important as mm/s. TPU can print fast. I have a video showing of 300mm/s I believe but have bin printing at 400mm/s. The flow are the limiting factor.
Hey Matt as a fellow Canadian I just wanted to let you know Bott Grinder just mentioned you as one of the most honest FPV you tubers and hoped everything was ok with you as do I.. you are who I watch the most getting into FPV . Where did you go?
Havn't finished watching it but came here to say you should try the BambuLabs X1 Carbon or even P1P. I think the P1P is more in this price range (actually cheaper) and better.
Finished watching now. Another great video. Love the honesty and always respect your opinions! How's the FPV flying been?
100% Anker's biggest mistake is staying with a bed slinger. This limits the speed of tall thin objects. My X1C is incredible, and has changed my entire perspective on 3d printing- and I've been printing for over 10 years! Started with a Solidoodle.
@@Jwmbike14 same! Been printing for 10 years now. I went from a wooden Replicator and finally "upgraded" to a Duplicator i3 machine a few years ago because it was $100 and found that was a bigger problem than i would have thought. Not only that it also moves the parts through the air, effectively cooling parts when you don't want to. Learned even though it could print at 120mm/s at first it would have to be lowered the higher and heavier the print gets. While my old Replicator could print at 160mm/s perfectly (when printing via USB, offloading the board processing).
I picked up a Creality Sermoon D1 last year for $275, on clearance and open box. Going back to a solid bed had made prints far better since. Far more predictable prints and i can run it at 250mm/s 2,500 acceleration without an issue. Anything faster and the board can't keep up, needs faster electronics. I generally run it at 200mm/s 1,000 acceleration to keep it quiet, can barely hear it outside the closet it lives in.
*Should note tons of custom mods done to my old Replicator
i was gonna say the same thing
i’m actually Considering buying a bambuLabs X1 Carbon, do you happen to have it, do you enjoy it?
Where have you been? No new FPV videos in a long time.
Fantastic video man! First time seeing any of your content and wow! really nicely done! Also fully agree with everything you said here about the M5 - rocksolid printer but man oh man does that AI detection stink.
We are exactly the same right now. Never seen Matt's content and it is very high quality! AnkerMake is working on AI detection, thankfully. At least it isnt really really needed. M5 doesnt really fail often
Thanks man! Recently stumbled on a few of your videos too as I got interested in 3D printing. Good stuff!
I just got my third printer. First was a BIQU B1, second Ender 3 Max, and now Ender 3 V3 SE. The V3 has all these features at a fraction of the cost. It prints fast enough it made me wonder if the filament had time to stick. My print speed is 180 consistently. I’m thoroughly impressed with the Ender 3 V3 SE.
I've had 3 Creality machines. They are good for a few months, MAYBE a year. Then the sub par stuff starts to break and wear out. The M5 is a totally different machine. That entire base is cast aluminum. It's more rigid than any printer I've ever experienced.
Hello "Matt Pochwat"! Thank you for showing us such a wonderful video! I feel so happy! I'm looking forward to your next work! Have a nice day!
Best parts of the video are the warning at the end, well put, and the editing master judo move at 14:25.
This was a really great/well-done video. I'm just getting into 3D printing myself and this video really helped as well as answered a lot of my initial questions.
Hey! Just wanted to give a quick warning.
When you touch the build plate (as you did a few times in this video) it can screw with the bed adhesion for a print unless you clean it.
I just want to say thank you because I used a small part of your video in a video of my clients
The Ankermake can do 500 mm/s2, while a Creality K1 series can do up to 600 mm/s2, while also having the AI Camera on the K1C and Max, and being an Optional add on on the base K1, and being enclosed and with other features.
I didn’t know ankermake send their 3d printer premiere out to test for free by average persons (your own words.)
I do appreciate your uploaded information, so thanks for sharing!
Anger is easily one of the best tech companies imo. They make amazing VR stuff as well as amazing 3d print and other stuff
Matt, I work in IT asset management, and we were impacted by the chip shortage, where sub contractors kept moving ship dates due to COVID. This makes sense that Anker had these issues around the same time. Totally not their fault. You can't get blood from a stone.
@MattPochwat please come back, i am just getting into the hobby and love your videos. Please make more!
It would be nice if the slicer could detect difficult spots and automatically print those portions of the print slower so you get the advantages of the increased speed whilst not compromising on quality and less risk of failed prints.
Unless thats already a thing and I've just never noticed it lol
The auto bed level corrects issues like this by micro-lifting and lowering around the build plate. As everything wears down you need to auto level regularly. Its like how the Bambu X1C take 10 minutes to start it's prints, which thank god you can turn off... AnkerMake simply doesn't force you to do it.
@@echo-hotel Thats not really what I'm talking about, more so the printer would slow down and maybe print at different layer heights automatically for certain areas of a print. Like it'll print large simple sections of a figurine quickly then slow down for the face.
@@acorgiwithacrown467 You're looking for the variable layer height setting. Otherwise slowing down is just your accelerations: it won't reach high speeds before it has to decelerate. Of course, nothing stops you from slapping on modifiers that set reduced speeds and accelerations for a given print area...
5:50
The stepper motor on the Y axis is the same as the ender 5 pro I have.
You can put a dual y axis belt mod on any ender 3.
Linear rails instead of pom wheels are a much better way to spend your money.
Why arent you uploading anymore you were a big help when is started looking for my first fpv gear :(
We have 2 M5's and a full-blown Ultimate s5. I would rather use the M5! Ankermaker did a wonderful job at design, materials, and manufacturing. Their slicer to print over wifi works great. I hope they make a bigger enclosed model for ABS and other high temp plastics.
why did u stop making videos?
The 3d printer killed him
Bro died because of the A.I.
Ankermake k¡lled him because of the negative stuff he said at the end.
Just kidding, they aren’t Boeing.
@@sgs_ terminator
Skibidi
4:43 literally every printer has the extrude and retract feature. With Klipper it’s just a simple with their web based UI and you can do it from your cell phone from across your house.
My new workhorse is my M5 and little one M5C. I've had a couple of problem with my machines, but Ankermake Service Support teams worked hard to correct any problems.
what problems did you have
05:57 That shot!! Either this is some wizardry or you got yourself one of those MKBHD $250K robot arms 😅
Always love seeing a new video from you! Great work
Try the Ender V3 KE. My one prints at 300mm a second no problem and at its top speed, the boat takes like 16 minutes.
The default settings on a Bambu X1C only top out at 300 mm/s for PLA and I can assure you the actual speed is MUCH faster than what you show here. Recently tried upping the Bambu's acceleration to 20,000 mm/s^2 from the default 10,000 mm/s^2. Acceleration is the real key to speed, and a bed slinger will NEVER even come close to a CoreXY or Delta, just look at the mass it has to move on the Y? or is it X? axis and the motor it has to move it with - and this changes as you add more mass to the printbed. I'm not aware of any slicer settings that let you slow down acceleration as more mass is laid on the bed, but my CR10 could easily carry several kilograms of plastic on a 300x300x400mm print. Acceleration at 20,000 mm/s^2 makes a Bambu sound roughly like an A10 Warthog chewing through a column of tanks, except MUCH MORE TERRIFYING SOUNDING. Not kidding at all. Sounded like missed steps at that speed, but I tried this on WildRoseBuilds' test cube and the result was perfect, so no, it wasn't missing steps. I just don't want to be in the room when it is printing at that speed. Running some numbers, at 20k acceleration, to slow from 300mm/s and reverse back up to 300mm/s, takes 30 milliseconds. In the time it takes to stop from full speed (300mm/s), the printhead covers 2.25mm. I looked up the CR-10S Pro profile in Simplify3D & it's saying 500mm/s^2 in XY and 100 in Z. 1/40th of the Bambu acceleration! 0 to 300mm/s takes 0.6 seconds on the CR-10, if it could even do it. It takes 90mm to ramp up and 90mm to ramp back down, which for a 300x300 bed, gives you 180mm averaging half-speed (best case) and 120mm at top speed. Given most parts and infill patterns are a lot shorter strokes than this, you can see the print speed is not getting up to the rates they are talking about.
Bro can you suggest me best printer with good speed and good print quality which is of more than 300mm bed size.
nerd
Nobody cares, take your bs somewhere else.
For the AI detection, add a poster-board behind the printer as a 'Quiet Background' to give it a better chance of accurate detection You may need to play with colors, rinse and repeat.
My first working* printer, the DreamMaker Overlord Pro(Deltaprinter), from 2016 printed at 100mm/s according to the official specs, but you could push it higher if you didn't care for finish.(150mm/s was possible) Oh, and it did sensorless bedlevelling... And since it was a Delta printer with Bowden type extruder, it could accellerate like nothing else.
I'm currently rebuilding it... slowly, very slowly, and hoping for higher speeds.
*The Mendel Prusa I built a few years before out of printed parts and threaded rods... never really worked properly.
This video comes across something like an ad. The bed slinging kinematic system, especially with a large heavy bed like this, is the hardest to make fast, and certainly not 5x faster out of the box. Having a "print speed" of 150 instead of 30 is not "5x faster" because the limiting factor is acceleration, and most of the time that giant bed will be moving less than 50 mm/s with typical acceleration settings suitable for it.
While it's a nice looking printer, it definitely feels like a big swing and a miss. You can get an Ender 3 S1 pro for $500 cad cheaper. With that savings you can buy a Wyze cam to check on your prints and still have $450 left over to buy filament. It just seems to me like Anker spent too much on getting this up and running and are trying to recoup their money by overcharging their customers. Either way great video Matt, happy to see you're making content again.
Well, yes you can get better perfomance for cheaper, but definitly not get better user experience for new 3d printing noobs. This 3d printer is geared for new people, you will definitly not get even get 150 mm/s without a lot of tinkering, flow calibration, linear advance and pressure advance tuning etc. Also this one is made to look good to consumers, not just for makers. So while it definitly isnt made for you and me, i dont think its a useless product. Its like a prusa, where you pay 1000€ for a normal bedslinger with outdated hardware, but get decent user Xp aswell.
Or you can just get a Bambu p1p 🤷🏻
@@aepfelpfluecker what? For that money you can get a prusa, and there’s nothing more reliable (and has an better out of the box experience) than one of their printers…
@@erebostd The Prusa i3 MK3s+ is a solid printer but the build-it-yourself kit cost $799, as much at the M5. That kit takes 6-8 hours to assemble, assuming the person doing the assembly has some basic mechanical skills. The M5 takes 10-20 minutes to set up and comes with an extra build plate, Prusa will send a second plate for an extra 35-40 bucks. I don't hate Prusa printers and for a long time they were king of the hill but they really haven't been innovating the last 4-5 years and their new large format printer has been plagued with delays and they refuse to release important information about specs and performance. Just to clarify they are taking money, 2000-4000 dollars on pre-orders, and haven't even told people the expected performance of the machine yet.
@@JaredCoiner if the reliability isn’t your concern, I’d get the P1P. It’s faster and has a better print quality than the ankermake. In my view the ankermake has competition on both ends. Prusa if you want a workhorse, and the P1P if you want fast, good prints… ruclips.net/video/5uBBnHZ080w/видео.html
The "leaver" on top of the extruder can actually be used to change filaments. Just push it down and you can feed or pull out the filament
I do want to mention that the Bambu labs p1p does accelerate up to 2000mm/s ^2 and uses the vibrations to make it faster.
You should try BambuLab machines - they're faster and more advanced. Print quality is also incredible. Comparing features to AnkerMake, Bambulab is a stiff competitor that seems to have won out.
I've heard a lot of good things! Would love to try one.
People need to stop supporting bambu lab until they get their QC issues figures out, stop supporting poor build quality.
I literally today went into ur profile to see how u're doing and now it turns out you've uploaded a video
You CAN when printing your 3D model from the Ankermake Slicer to not generate an AI image, so the AI detection wont be applied
Lol I printed that boat benchy on my X1C in under 13 minutes and the quality at that speed is nuts how well it come out
you should try a Bambu Labs X1C with AMS...its an amazing piece of machine!
You didn't mention how long did it take to print benchy on new machine. Was it 5 times faster?? Matt, you are missing a huge point when you are talking about the printing speed. You can set whatever speed you want but acceleration is a major limiting factor and on small prints such as benchy or other test prints you demonstrated it will never reach the desired speed. And mentioned acceleration for the printer up to 2500mm/s is actually pretty low for "fast printer". Also if you are talking about fast printing you must mention whether there are resonance compensation as this is new standard now. Another missing point is extrusion volume, but at low speeds which were demonstrated its not an issue.
Also in slicer speeds for different types of lines are different. External perimeters, inner perimeters, infill etc, and they are usually by default significantly lower than basic speed.
Anyway, try to print at 150mm/s for every line type with acceleration at least above 5000mm/s^2.
I watched like halfway and realised their whole argument was completely flawed. This is just another e3 clone with fancy marketing.
Can you make a review of the Radiomaster Boxer
For that price, you just buy a P1P or some coreXY printer, this design isn't ment to print fast but to be cheap to produce.
I miss this absolute Legend
Looks good with loads of features and nearly no setup but too expensive unfortunately.
Tip for starting out in CAD: if your designing a model with some tolerance needed just print out a section of the print to test, eg for your phone holder you could print like 10-15mm height of the model to check phone fits well first. 😊
Good advice. I started doing this on longer prints.
Quick question. I'm new to 3D printing. But something you said in this video got me thinking. You mentioned how it is possible to have defects in your print, or even an outright failure.
I'm not sure if these are always from a bad design or something literally just going wrong in the print execution process. But in case of bad design I don't see why someone couldn't develop a print simulator. Something that goes through the motions of printing the design electronically only (not physically). In that way it would only take a few seconds to complete because it is only limited by the speed of the processor and memory.
When showing a speed comparison try to show the same geometry being printed, it gives a far better indication of speed and acceleration differences.
Hey just a heads up, infill isn't super important! You set that camera mount thing to 20% but could have kept it at 5% and would've printed fine, lightning infill is also always an option, just a heads up!
Idk where he talks about that in the video, but infill is really important...
@@Terandium no actually, it isn't not sure how long you've been printing but I've been doing it for quite some time, infill is literally only important on functioning parts, and even then you don't need a ton of it, for smaller parts you should on ever really need 50% ish but when your doing prototypes or just desk pieces you can go for 5% and the prints will be practically the same.
@@skellcy7135 ah yeah for models it aint, I mostly print functional parts for selling. So I need it to be quite strong as not everyone inc postal services are very soft to the touch
The way 3D printing builds complex designs is like watching an invisible hand sculpt in real-time! 🔮🛠
Bro, where'd you go???
my skirt and first layer are at 60mms then the rest of the print is 120mms. i use .4 and .6mm nozzles depending on how big the print is. I use the same settings on 2 printers. i have a longer lk4 pro (ender 3) and a longer lk5 pro (cr10). the lk5 pro will print way faster than the lk4 pro because it has the extra supports that significantly stiffen up the z "tower". and i have all upgraded steppers and dual z steppers. But i leave the settings the same so the files are interchangeable. Even with the bigger bed of the lk5 i can use lk4 files itll just be off center when it prints. i have a ton of upgrades but even stock both of my printers were great. there is absolutely no need to buy expensive printers when there are amazing cheap(ish) printers that exist.
3:18 build plates are super easy to find online in a wide variety materials I don’t know why he said it was super difficult to find a replacement but that is just not the case.
This looks like a huge step forward in speed and performance, even though the AI is unfinished.
But, at 4 TIMES the price I paid for my Ender 3 ($200 shipped), at $800, this is not affordable for most people.
RUclips channel CHEP, has made different printing profiles that significantly speed up the time it takes to print with an Ender 3! Quality is still good too. These profiles may make an 8 hour print take 4.5 hours, so significantly less time and still reasonable quality. Several options too.
Highly suggested!!!! 😎🤘
What a great review, Matt! Nicely done and so detailed! 👍
Have you never used the Bambu Labs X1? Out of the box prints more than twice as fast- SUPER easy to use! I've had one print fail due to using Carbon PLA and bad layer adhesion for complicated support structure. Would really recommend it
Missing the videos! Just got my first drone with the DJI goggles loving it!
7:15 Side by side comparison with two completely different models... Nice!
Me, rocking my solidoodle 4 that's like 10 years old. I slightly modified it. Very accurate.
The latest firmware update has changed the AI a lot and it has gotten way better. Also, low light with black filament gives lots of false readings with the AI. This machine is my go-to machine ... as a matter of fact we just bought a second one.
$1600 for 2 printers? lol id rather get 8 normal priced printers
@@2stroketyson79 Not sure what's funny about buying two high quality $800 products instead of 8 diy toys that eat your time with troubleshooting.
@@Draxi_1 Normal "DIY toys" are made in much the same way: V-rollers on a V-slot, uprights. Anker has a downside in lacking an anchored-down bed, although for a bedslinger the sheer mass of the bed should be enough to keep it in the slots. For this price an enthusiast machine would be expected to supply a superior motion system, either linear rods (Prusa) or for more modern lineages, linear rails. Both are more rigid, reduce vibration and oscillation, thus requiring less input shaping effort and allowing higher speeds at lower maintenance and higher precision than V-rollers.
Someone competent enough to need 8 printers in a farm will almost certainly have the know-how to ensure an Ender 3 to be reliable. Besides, when it comes to proprietaries, for 800 bucks you can have the Bambulabs P1P, a CoreXY machine with a much higher speed ceiling and overall capabilities than the Ankermake. It's able to hang up there with the RepRaps like the Vorons, VZBots, or Ratrigs in speed and quality. M5... Just cannot keep up with that, it's the fundamental limitation of the Carthesian bedslinger system. It also has to pick a fight with another bedslinger in Prusa Mk.4 now, which is a superior offering in every way.
When thinking about quality, the more points it has the better the calculations of the beds stability.
1 YEAR , broo .... how are you ?
3:36 you can adjust how many bed probing points your printer does in the configuration file
I know a lot of people don't buy the speed thing but go try printing a benchy at 250m/s on an ender 3. Even with tweaking settings and machine mods it's difficult.
do you use tolerance when printing? I am new to printing, but I have been learning about things like interference and clearance fits and the classes they have. If you look up these charts, you can try and make parts to work with the real world with as little mistakes as possible. These charts however are mainly for holes and shafts and you have to keep in mind the values you see for the tolerance are for thousanths of an inch. Even if the printer were to print something that has exactly the nominal dimentions you instruct, having the same interior diameter of a holder with the same exterior diamter of the thing that is being held will create a very snug press fit and that isnt even taking into account the horrizontal expansion of 3d printing. I think it is enough to be of concern when fitting objects together. If you try these maybe the mistakes will be lessened
I always print at around 40 mm/s or even slower. For example, if I want to print something that takes 3 hours, there is no big difference if I print at 120 mm/s or 80 mm/s, it's just 1 or 2 hours faster. However, the printing quality is perfect.
That's because you print small things. And your acceleration is also not high enough. You may as well try printing at 1000mm/s, it'll never hit that speed with small parts + low accelerations.
@@alejandroperez5368 I am not. I also print big things
A smart thing they could do to improve the AI would be a feedback system fro custom printing.
Think like Tesla FSD.
My suggestion is to allow connecting a mobile phone to it.
Let the user report back failed printings.
Submit the recording -- at least the beginning of the failure -- back.
I'm sure many of the customers would like to support improving the printer by doing this extra work.
It's a community, I guess!
Just an idea!
Imagine being in the middle of getting it on and your printer is like"Hey!!! Hey Fred!!! We got some spaghetti over here you may wanna take a look at this!!! 👀"
Managed to get my Ender 3 v3 to go slightly above this printers, max printing speed completely stock somehow. and the print quality has not been affected.
It's 800$ if anyone is wondering. (maybe I missed it in the video, but I think it's interesting to know.) Great Video!
I find it funny how people are astounded by some new printers' speeds, while my 11 year old *wooden* little Ultimaker 1.0 blasts higher speeds than many at absolutely insane quality that left many of my Prusa MK3+ owning friends lost for words - down to 0.04mm layers in minute details :)
You can turn of the AI feature in the slicer under Settings/General. If you do that you won't be bothered with the notifications and a bigger plus for me is that the printer doesn't pause to initialize the first layer. I got my M5 in december and I'm loving it so far. I really like that Ankermake is listening to the users, they pushed out several firmware updates that solved a lot of minor issues and I don't really care about the AI-function anyway to be honest. Hopefully they start shipping the V6 color engine soon, I'm way more interested in that.
idk it be hard for me pay 700+ for printer and not get the features they offered as selling points and be happy about it. I'll wait see if they fix it
@@jamesharris9894 The big reason for me to back the kickstarter was that it looked like a plug and play printer. Since I'm new to 3d printing I was looking for something that just worked out of the box.
It was the first time I ever invested in a kickstarter project. But I own several Anker products and they are all top quality and after it featured on Linus I pulled the trigger. Ordered the V6 color engine as well.
And I have to say. Apart from the AI-feature not working (yet). I has been a really pleasant experience so far.
The printer is set up in less then 10 minutes. The hardware is top quality and I really like the wifi functionality and the auto- bed leveling.
But most importantly, most stl files I find online are printed perfectly and fast with just the default settings. It has been very reliable thusfar.
Sure, I had some failed prints and there are a few things that can be improved upon but they delivered on the most important thing for me and that is ease of use.
I received my printer in december, had it running in half an hour, and it has been printing almost non-stop since then without any need for adjustment. It still uses the first nozzle and the magnetic plate does not have a scratch on it.
So far I am really happy with my M5
Would this be a good 1st printer? I'm impressed by how it's built.
This is the printer I have! This was my first printer and I love it!
Bro, come back. I very liekd your Videos!
Please comeback broo
you could push your S1 up to high speeds too by using klipper on a rpi or alternatives...
its a stupid comparison because the acceleration is what actually dictates the speed the printer will reach. This is just another e3 clone
But you will have to tune that yourself. This printer is already set up for it, hence the price. If your new to 3d printing and dont like tinkering, i would choose that one or the bambulab p1p, if not, you can always get a cheapo ender 3 and mod it to the max. Both viable options imo
@@aepfelpfluecker A stock ender 3 can print as fast as this for 500 GDP less. Its not like its difficult either, you can increase performance dramatically by just upping acceleration in the firmware. This printer is a literal money grab and is not defendable in any way.
nice review. u got me into making stuff on youtube. your the best thanks
u got along way too go but dont let the comments go to your hart just keep editing all vids and try writing a script
Tbh all i need is something to print a tiny camera mount and arm guards for my quad. What's the minimum I can get?
The autobed leveling doing 49 points is stock in marlin firmware. Pretty easy to change the number of points though
glad ur back!
Even without reviewing it, a mention of the BambuLab P1P would have added value to this video since it's actually delivering on speed at the same price. The Anker Make doesn't exist in a vacuum.
It was hard to find a replacement build plate for your Ender3? Have you never used the site called Amazon? Are you possibly a Bing user?
You should get a bambu like a a1 or a1 mini
If TPU standard speed is 20 and the Ankermake does it at 100...it's still 5x speed, just not 250mm/s. It's not really false advertisement, just generally vague.
You did a fantastic job of reviewing this. Thank you very much. I wish you the best in your future doing youtube like this.
After nine months, what do you think, please? I would like to buy one.
There are a lot of new products on the printer market and I think we should try some new ones like Bambu lab or FLSUN v400, they look good and wild.
That V2 phone mount would be sick if you made a circle cut out on the back to fit a magsafe charger!
@MarrPochwat We miss you!!!!
7:12
Dude your average Ender 3 goes the exact same speed.
Go on cura and set your ender 3 to 80mm/s.
Same print quality. Just goes as fast as this does.
I think its acceleration that matters the most in these printers
You fed filament into the extruder on the side, it did come with a small peoce of Capricorn tube which does imply direct drive, but that doesn't look like direct drive based on how its loaded on the side of the printer like that
You do load into the side, that's where the breakage / runout sensor is, but the extrusion gearing isn't IN the side, it's in the head itself. There's about a 7-cm travel path from the mechanism through a short ptfe tube and the heatbreak to the tip of the nozzle.