May I echo all the fine positive comments already posted here, I have this feeling of experiencing a privilege to be taught by such an eloquent humble man of real knowledge of the subject, ( off roading) and many of his comments many of us will already know, but his manner as already stated, of regarding his pupils ( us) with respect seasoned with implied dignity demonstrates the calibre of the man and his skills. Thank you for such an enjoyable, informative masterpiece of a series.
I love a guy (or gal) who starts an explanation with "In my experience...". Generally, he or she will then qualify their opinion with examples. Fear the dude (yep, usually a dude) who says "The only/right/best/ way to do this...". What a great series, i'm loving it. In my experience, getting a team of experts with close to a century of combined experience to help you (or guide you) is the best way to ensure success. Doing it solo is also a great way to learn it (the hard way!) - I'm blessed that I've had the chance to do so both ways :)
Best vehicle maintenance/repair series I have seen. I will be saving this whole series. You have a very good friend in Paul and he is a wealth of knowledge. Keep up the good work.
This series is just dead useful to everyone who has something with a wheel and an engine to look after, regardless of whether it's a 4x4 or not. Really interesting to actually see how one ticks. One of the many reasons I keep watching your vids, keep it up lads.
For 5 years with a 1991 Land Cruiser I have dealt with every issue Paul is talking about in each episode of this series. I just ordered a new 76 Series. Time to go back and watch your previous episodes again too.
@@harveysmith100 Actually I have tools and do some of my own repairs but there are a good number of things on modern vehicles that are just outside the scope of many of us garage/driveway mechanics.Too many electronics, computers, etc. Thats where a good "real" tech can be a godsend. Also, I'm aware Paul isn't the mechanic, more of a service advisor, but an Honest one, not the kind that pads the bill for profit's sake. My point was more that good honest mechanics are a rare and valuable commodity.
@@utahjohnnymontana3373 Utah JohnnyMontana I couldn't agree more about Paul. He explains things so well. I also agree about modern cars, too electronic. That is why my LandCruiser is a 1991! Keep working on cars
Reading through some of the replies people seem to be very pleased with the way that Paul is explaining things in this series excellent work with out all the crap that some RUclipsrs go on with. well done Andrew and Paul Looking forward to the next one .
Yeah I know, Paul is a very knowledgeable fellow but he has it slightly wrong about those disc brakes. Drilled and slotted rotors do not give better "grip"on the pads in the way he explained it... Fact is, they have slightly less, due to less surface area. However, the main benefits for slotted rotors are for letting the gasses escape and better cooling. Personally, on a 4wd that actually goes off road frequently, they're are a wank more than anything, better to stick with a high quality smooth surface ventilated rotors, especially on 4wds that see a lot of dirt and mud.. Slotted rotors are great for high performance "on road" and heavy vehicles.. stay away from drilled rotors as they're a complete wast of time on any type of vehicle... unless it's for show, they do look cool.
My thoughts exactly, what is the job of the rotor, to dissipate heat which comes from energy conversion (Kinetic to heat etc...) via the friction caused by the pads on the rotor. The more material you have to dissipate heat into the better the "performance". Air cooling when hard on the brakes contributes to a very minimal energy offload though air convection. Having more metal to dissipate heat into is much better as metal conducts the heat and more of it, much better than air. Gasses produced by braking... meh I'd say ok might assist a bit. Go with solid smooth disks, that are good quality steel. Drilled also have a tendency to crack.
Correct.... there have been quite afew wrong comments made. When the customer doesn’t have a clue you can really rub your hands together on the bill haha
Correct. for off-road you need the biggest rotor mass you can find. It is simple physics. With more mass you can absob more heat and trasnfer it out. how do you spot a good rotor ? Look at the stated massa,d you will know. A 12 kg rotor will be better than an 11.5 kg one, will be more reselient to brake fadding. Grooves do nothing off-road, ventilation .. same the speed is to low for them to be effective.
The off gassing isn't even an issue anymore these days because of modern brake pad material. What is even more concerning is that drilled rotors crack more easily. You gain no benefits, lose braking performance, and then have to constantly worry about if cracks are forming at the holes. Even in sports cars , drilled rotors are a bad idea. Look at the Corvette, their optional rotors that are drilled are notorious for cracking. Now look at Porche, who does not sell drilled rotors, but rather "dimpled" rotors. Porsche understands that drilled rotors are a bad idea for sports cars. Andrew, I would swap out those rotors for high quality vented blank rotors. The slots and holes are just going to cause headaches down the road.
Your friend is a very good mechanic with a keen eye for detail. Not many mechanics care enough to check all of that wiring. Really enjoying the series!
If you bring your vehicle to the right shop (and pay the right price of course) you will usually get good work...and a guarantee on the work to boot. Quality workmanship is not rare, you just have to pay for it and allow the the time necessary to to do the work properly
Excellent series, both in content and presentation. I make one comment related to brakes, based on my son's very similar experience of preparing his 105 series for overlanding. Replacing brake disks and pads is only half of the job. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, and the absorption of water leads to degradation, the products of which cause corrosion and gumming up. In my opinion, very few braking systems are thoroughly bled, and normal bleeding procedures do not completely flush the degraded brake fluid from the slave cylinders. After 20 years, the rear slave cylinders in my son's vehicle had so gummed up that they would not retract when the brake pedal was released. The measures needed to free them indicated that braking efficiency had been seriously compromised. The only logical approach is to replace all brake seals on both slave and master cylinders. While you're at it, have the ABS system thoroughly checked - not just the unit, but all associated wiring and sensors. I had cause to be very grateful to the man who overhauled the braking systems on my son's vehicle. Defensive driving techniques helped me avoid a collision, but a laden Land Cruiser needs all the braking power Toyota built into it!
The slots in the rotors help a lot with gas and pad particles escaping when braking hard, they are also invaluable in wet weather breaking (allowing the moisture to escape). Although I have mixed thoughts with cross drilling on 4WDs as they can easily capture small stones and / or fill with mud and they also give you a slightly smaller surface area for the pad to bite in to for no real advantage in my opinion - yes I have had both (currently have slotted only as have had small stones chew into pads from being stuck in the cross drilled holes before). Just my experience.
I tend to agree with your thoughts and would also add that slotted and drilled rotors will warp a lot more quickly than plain rotors - this is from experience.
I agree as well, slotted but not grooved. Look at what serious road race cars use, slotted only. Cross drilling creates stress risers that give cracks a place to start. Cross drilling also removes mass than groves. Brakes work by converting kinetic energy to heat energy. The more heat a rotor can absorb the better. this is one reason why larger thicker rotors are better. The "grip test" to say the drilled/slotted rotor is better is laughable.
Paul, you are a calm and gentle with your crisp and true friend. Seems you make him think a lot! Expose the guys working on the 105 a bit more to the camera, would like to meet them as well. Thanks!
If you're taping wires I'd surgest using the proper wire loom tape and the braided hoses to replace the plastic wire hoses. You can get it on line via a few companies or at an auto shop.
Rule number one, Find someone who knows what he's doing and stands by his work. Rule number two stand back and let them tear into the vehicle and explain what needs to be fixed. Rule number three write the cheque and let them fix it! Happy trails.
It's crazy what a bad earth can cause. I had a Discovery 2 TD5 and out of the blue one day at the lights it started shuddering and every warning light on the dash came up. Stalled and wouldn't start. 5 Mins later started fine drove another 500m happened again. Sat on the side of the road probing and testing stuff for an hour before finally figuring out the negative terminal on my battery was loose. Not even visible to the eye but enough for it to not make good contact.
On a different note, can I suggest you install an hour meter in the dash while youre doing all this work, far better for monitoring life of parts and service intervals than distance, also fuel consumption, my driving is pretty constant so is fuel use approx. 5 litres per hour regardless of speed even in low box, very interesting series good work, cheers Roy.
Looks like it's coming together nicely... Not a fan of the Drilled/Slotted on a 4wd vehicle though. Rocks,Mud get inside those groves and can affect your braking and life of the rotor. D/S rotors are more of street/racing application.
I never had a problem with my 83 BJ wiring. My 65 MGB had a cloth wrapped harness. The steepest incline I descended had the 'low brake fluid level' light come on for the master cylinder. Level, the fluid was somewhere between low and top.
Even though I don't have a LandCruiser (they are extremely thirsty in the US), I really like this series. It applies regardless of what you drive. Most people ignore most of the components on the rebuild which are important. Then you see them at the "Hail Mary" section of the auto parts store looking for a pour in solution because they haven't kept up with their maintenance.
They are thirsty in America because they are petrol. The rest of the world prefers diesel LandCruisers. I like what you said about ingoring most of the components. Can I add, don't fit cheap parts or your super reliable Japanese machine slowly becomes a Chinese machine. Would you drive a Chinese car across a desert?
@@harveysmith100 - Yeah, they say its because of emissions, I'm not sure how true or false that is but I'm sure the people in charge would never want us driving in diesels, getting way better mileage, messing with the oil based economy that not many Americans really know about. Unfortunately its difficult to tell where parts come from , I'm sure its China, and because of our highway system, one is never to far from an Auto Parts Store.
This will b a fine rig when its finished, just add a tunned 5.9 cummins Btw his troopy braking experience is why i put F250 brakes on mine, doubles braking effort for about 8k, nothing like having brakes designed to stop a rig double the wt of ur 78 hey
Hey Paul, can you create a new old car for me too please? Not after power, just reliability and peace of mind. This project for Andrew is turning out better than a new one. You reckon there might be a market for renewed old, simple landcruisers? ...price of old landcruisers just shot up a couple of thousand.
What kind of brake pads are being fitted (organic, ceramic, semi-mettalic..?)? Also, how much, in total, will you be spending on all of the upgrades/work you’re doing?
Ok guys I love this series but have to raise a bit of concern about how those bearings where done in a professional shop. No 1 slapping half a tub of grease in the hubs is going to lead to overheating of the bearings. Grease should be applied and worked into the bearing races with a bit on the bearing face and that's it. All that grease in between the bearing does nothing but insulate the bearing and prevent heat loss. Then there is the installation of those outer races with a hammer directly on the edge if you dont have a bearing punch set, that one would expect in a professional garage at least use the old outer race on top of the new one so as to spread the impact and prevent damaging the race edges. Sorry to be critical but it is important that people research the correct bearing installation to get best service life, this in my opinion was not a good example of that. None the less the content of this series is great keep up the great work guys.
Everything is coming from the same supplier, so I suspect they’re a wholesaler rather than manufacturer. Their packaging appears to be very good, but I’m more interested in the quality of the components rather than their boxes. Given the nature of the biggest wholesaler of aftermarket parts for Land Rovers, I can’t help wonder about this brand. I know you’re being sponsored by them, so would have to be diplomatic, but how do they compare to OEM, not just in terms of value for money but plain quality?
love the series but the part on the drilled brakes is completely cosmetic heck it hurts the rotor by creating stress spots that is why there are no drilled rotors in racong but the slotscare to help the gases emitted by the break pads escape essential cleaning the pads for a more efficient bite to the rotor
🤲 I with you guys all the way with wiring and electrical. Even more so with new 4x4 they are just computers on wheels. And one tiny electrical problem will kill the vehicle possibly in the middle of nowhere. I am trying to minimise electrics added to my vehicle electrical systems for this very reason not to give the “computer” a reason to play up. One of biggest concerns is my vehicle has a push to start button what if this failed in the middle of the Simpson Desert etc... I would be F@$!...
Regarding brake fade due to heat, drums expand and pedal goes to floor as diameter increases, however, discs expand and pedal stays up or firmer as the disc takes up more space, but brakes are fading. Does this ring true?
Brake fade on disc brakes (and also drum to some degree) is usually caused by brake pads that are above their operating temperature range, basically better performance pads have a higher rating (some easily up to 800'c) - most standard pads fail at anything over 350'c.
Brake fade is due to the fluid boiling in the lines in both drums and disk brakes. The boiling of the fluid releases gases that allows your pedal to go to the floor. Drums fade quicker as heat cannot escape them as easy, this is the main difference, not so much the expansion of metal. The extreme heating of the friction material also causes the spongy feel. As brake fluid is Hygroscopic (attracts water) it is important that brake fluid is flushed regularly, having excess water in the fluid causes the water to boil quickly and brakes fade almost immediately in heavy stops or descents. Hope this helps.
@@wombatone5577 Yes, I do mine every 2 years regardless as water will lower the boiling point of the fluid, also use at least a DOT 4 (higher temperature than DOT 3) fluid.
@@dingodazz3724 When changing complete brake fluid every 2 years, or at other times adding fluid, please be careful if you use DOT 4 fluid in a car that specifies DOT 3. Some cars will accept it but others will not. Toyotas are notorious for not accepting it. The square section "O" ring in the brake callipers expand about 5% in cross section (or thereabouts) when DOT 4 is used. What results is that the rubbers are too tight and the calliper pistons do not retract when the brakes are released - had new rear brake pads wear down to zero (metal to metal) in less than a month. In Australia also found the same problem with Holden Commodore rear disc brakes. I am a retired mechanic and after contacting many brake specialists the best (and simplest) advice I received was from Burt Bros in Western Sydney, the largest brake folk in Australia - they have an excellent reputation. They said look at the cap on the master cylinder. If it says DOT 3, use DOT 3. If it says DOT 4 then use DOT 4. Some vehicle caps say you can use DOT 3 or DOT 4. I have followed that advice of only using DOT 3 where specified on the cap and since then have not had any problems.
Andrew do you ever think your overdoing it a little.... don't get me wrong I love looking at this and all the issues.... but I've just driven from Ireland to Thailand 38 different country's.... the world's worst roads, Omalo pass Georgia, Turkmenistan, palmir highway, Afghanistan, Iran, Mongolia, Tibet Nepal India Burma Laos Cambodia so on sitting on 53,000kms in a 22 year old diesel prado since th 1st of May... I've modified the back suspension with a 2" heavy duty spring(I've a lot of weight in the back) snorkel duel diesel tanks and split charger. Dug dug brumm every morning.... I've broken a break pipe middle of nowhere Myanmar 1hr fixed it and a bad earth on a battery caused the alternator to fail.(I had a spare) 1hr fixed it middle of nowhere Tajikistan. I did have to change bushings and ball joints in kazakhstan. Total cost of the prado(bought in 2012 and left in a shed for 6 years while I lived in oz) and modifications and repairs to get it here $9000 Australian. You must of spent that fixing this 105!?!
I'd love a 100 series, they can be got second hand here in Ireland easily... But they're all hovering at around €15k!!! Regardless of mileage condition etc... Is it worth it!?!?
This is a 105. It has the running gear of the 80 series but with the 100 body and interior I believe. The popularity of Land Cruisers has made them crazy expensive here in the US.
yes but basic commonsense still applies. Check for log book and service history, rust. Check radiator cap for " sludge ", white or grey substance under radiator cap, which indicates lack of oil changes. Change your PCV valve and transmission oil upon purchase. In fact change all oils and filters upon purchase. Check air suspension, Check air conditioning works. Check timing belt or chain. Very cheap insurance. And check forums. . The LC is one of the most reliable things on the road ruclips.net/video/oY-jhXW4Aow/видео.html ruclips.net/video/DFiQ3rY8ILE/видео.html ruclips.net/video/W3xoakfCvLw/видео.html ruclips.net/video/1Z4yek9oTfE/видео.html
@@ryanmartinage Does the 105 have the regular 80 series front axle? It is weak being a hilux diff. They go bang under load in reverse. The teeth arent made to withstand the reverse forces. But the locked diffs are stronger than the unlocked ones I read. I'm swapping an 80 front end in my 60 for the better coil suspension that goes with it but I'll be giving up some diff strength. But it is locked.
@@mark2073 The 105 ended in 2007 I believe and yes, Im pretty sure they did have the solid front as well. They're pretty coveted for the nicer interior space with the solid gear underneath with the 100 series having IFS as you know.
@@mark2073 I believe they do (as I used a 105 series front centre in my hilux rear housing many moons ago - I also had a genuine USA made Lock-right locker in it). There are things you can do to strengthen it, this link gives you some information: 4x4earth.com/forum/index.php?threads/toyota-diff-centre-up-grade-80-105-series-crusers.5434/
@@overland-workshop I got a notification and looked at it briefly at work. Now it is the weekend so I came to listen to you with a cup of coffee and i see it was removed. I have screen shot pic that I can send you. Thanks for everything
@@MiniLuv-1984 glad to know I'm not the only broke mf around, everyone seems to be doing well, but atleast I'm free from the trappings of the statutory system, it's a fair trade, being with value, without cash, instead of being cashed up but of little value outside their own bubble, never mind huh, what's for you won't go by you, though I miss out on a lot not having addresses or bank accounts or names and stuff like that.
@@MiniLuv-1984 no benny but I will now, I've been tryi g to prep since the fn 90's but this system and the rodents within keep robbing me down to nothing.
Drilled and slotted rotors... Let me begin by saying I don't see a problem with using them in this application. The cross drilled holes and slots will help clean dirt, mud, and other debris off of the braking surfaces. Now, to address the misconception that they improve braking performance. They don't inherently improve braking performance. The holes and slots are there for the same reason as the grooves on tires, and they are there to evacuate water, snow, mud, etc. Cross drilled holes and slots are there because old brake pad from say the 1970's would off-gas at high temperatures. The highest temperatures that brakes would endure during that time was in motorsport. The brakes pads would actually off gas enough and the gas would have enough pressure that at times the gas would push the brake pads away from the rotor causing diminished braking performance, which when on track would usually result in a off track excursion and someone having a very bad day (potentially fatal during that era). The brake rotors were first cross drilled to provide a escape path for the gas coming from the brake pads. The holes tend to crack though and can cause rotor failure. Slots were introduced later and are less prone to cracking (and thus rotor failure) and also provide for more even pad wear because the slot covers a larger area of the brake pad. New brake pads use different materials and so the off gassing is not the problem it used to be and drilled and slotted rotors are not necessary anymore. Because of the potential for rotor failure drilled and/or slotted rotors are no longer even preferred for track use. Braking performance relies on the friction coefficient between the pads and rotors and is directly related to "swept surface area" of the pads/rotors. Holes and slots reduce the surface area that the pads contact and thus reduce the amount of friction between the two surfaces. A good comparison would again be tires. Race cars use "slicks" because they have a greater surface area which means a greater friction coefficient and thus more traction. Brakes work the same way. But, just like you wouldn't use racing "slicks" off road I agree with the usage of the cross-drilled and slotted rotors for this application. Sorry for the dissertation.
I did feel an improvement in the braking performance of this vehicle, although it was not a significant difference. Thanks for the dissertation. All good stuff.
@@overland-workshop Thanks, I'm glad you liked my comment and glad you saw a improvement in braking anyway. If I had to guess I would say the new brake pads have much better performance than the stock Toyota pads.
It’s a pitty about this build series, interesting as it is but I expected more filming of the actual work being done. Paul is very knowledgeable but with more of the actual building. Enjoy 😊
Brakes with grooves and holes explanation was utterly wrong. Rally cars at most have groves to help dislodge a stick rock, the holes don’t help any ventilation they just look good, 50 years ago holes were for the off gassing, today it’s not a concern
This guy is severely misinformed on what rotors like that do to your braking performance . I'd suggest looking into it yourself or paying somebody who knows better and is not just pushing a product.
That short earth wire sits not in the right place..... If you buy a land cruiser from me i tell you all the things right. He tells a lot off rubbish and selling lots off parts that are not necessary. Belgium, only 6 cilinders.
May I echo all the fine positive comments already posted here, I have this feeling of experiencing a privilege to be taught by such an eloquent humble man of real knowledge of the subject, ( off roading) and many of his comments many of us will already know, but his manner as already stated, of regarding his pupils ( us) with respect seasoned with implied dignity demonstrates the calibre of the man and his skills. Thank you for such an enjoyable, informative masterpiece of a series.
As a Toyota owner and DIY home mechanic I find these videos so helpful. I have learned so much. Thank you both!! Such a joy to watch and listen!
One of the best series ever made. Really enjoying it. Thank you very much for making these videos.
I love a guy (or gal) who starts an explanation with "In my experience...". Generally, he or she will then qualify their opinion with examples. Fear the dude (yep, usually a dude) who says "The only/right/best/ way to do this...". What a great series, i'm loving it. In my experience, getting a team of experts with close to a century of combined experience to help you (or guide you) is the best way to ensure success. Doing it solo is also a great way to learn it (the hard way!) - I'm blessed that I've had the chance to do so both ways :)
Andrew, I've already sent Paul a direct email note thanking him for his time. Great series. Keep it up!
Paul's voice is very soothing.
Best vehicle maintenance/repair series I have seen. I will be saving this whole series. You have a very good friend in Paul and he is a wealth of knowledge. Keep up the good work.
Jake Hollingsworth what can be done if you don’t have to pay
@@jeetts59 I'm confused by the question
This series is just dead useful to everyone who has something with a wheel and an engine to look after, regardless of whether it's a 4x4 or not. Really interesting to actually see how one ticks. One of the many reasons I keep watching your vids, keep it up lads.
Good to see that there are people like Paul Marsh that know what they are doing and don't take chances
Well done Andrew and Paul.
Exactly what the average guy needs to know.
Looking forward to your travels with the finished car
Bravo
For 5 years with a 1991 Land Cruiser I have dealt with every issue Paul is talking about in each episode of this series. I just ordered a new 76 Series. Time to go back and watch your previous episodes again too.
I love this series so much, when I can finally buy a car, this is going to be very useful information to know!
I wish I knew a mechanic like this guy. Real world experience plus integrity.
buy some tools, work hard, learn and become that guy. Paul isn't a mechanic either
@@harveysmith100 Actually I have tools and do some of my own repairs but there are a good number of things on modern vehicles that are just outside the scope of many of us garage/driveway mechanics.Too many electronics, computers, etc. Thats where a good "real" tech can be a godsend.
Also, I'm aware Paul isn't the mechanic, more of a service advisor, but an Honest one, not the kind that pads the bill for profit's sake.
My point was more that good honest mechanics are a rare and valuable commodity.
@@utahjohnnymontana3373 Utah JohnnyMontana I couldn't agree more about Paul. He explains things so well. I also agree about modern cars, too electronic. That is why my LandCruiser is a 1991! Keep working on cars
Reading through some of the replies people seem to be very pleased with the way that Paul is explaining things in this series excellent work with out all the crap that some RUclipsrs go on with. well done Andrew and Paul
Looking forward to the next one .
Yeah I know, Paul is a very knowledgeable fellow but he has it slightly wrong about those disc brakes. Drilled and slotted rotors do not give better "grip"on the pads in the way he explained it... Fact is, they have slightly less, due to less surface area. However, the main benefits for slotted rotors are for letting the gasses escape and better cooling.
Personally, on a 4wd that actually goes off road frequently, they're are a wank more than anything, better to stick with a high quality smooth surface ventilated rotors, especially on 4wds that see a lot of dirt and mud.. Slotted rotors are great for high performance "on road" and heavy vehicles.. stay away from drilled rotors as they're a complete wast of time on any type of vehicle... unless it's for show, they do look cool.
My thoughts exactly, what is the job of the rotor, to dissipate heat which comes from energy conversion (Kinetic to heat etc...) via the friction caused by the pads on the rotor. The more material you have to dissipate heat into the better the "performance". Air cooling when hard on the brakes contributes to a very minimal energy offload though air convection. Having more metal to dissipate heat into is much better as metal conducts the heat and more of it, much better than air. Gasses produced by braking... meh I'd say ok might assist a bit. Go with solid smooth disks, that are good quality steel. Drilled also have a tendency to crack.
They're also unnecessarily noisy.
Correct.... there have been quite afew wrong comments made. When the customer doesn’t have a clue you can really rub your hands together on the bill haha
Correct. for off-road you need the biggest rotor mass you can find. It is simple physics. With more mass you can absob more heat and trasnfer it out. how do you spot a good rotor ? Look at the stated massa,d you will know. A 12 kg rotor will be better than an 11.5 kg one, will be more reselient to brake fadding.
Grooves do nothing off-road, ventilation .. same the speed is to low for them to be effective.
The off gassing isn't even an issue anymore these days because of modern brake pad material.
What is even more concerning is that drilled rotors crack more easily. You gain no benefits, lose braking performance, and then have to constantly worry about if cracks are forming at the holes.
Even in sports cars , drilled rotors are a bad idea. Look at the Corvette, their optional rotors that are drilled are notorious for cracking. Now look at Porche, who does not sell drilled rotors, but rather "dimpled" rotors. Porsche understands that drilled rotors are a bad idea for sports cars.
Andrew, I would swap out those rotors for high quality vented blank rotors. The slots and holes are just going to cause headaches down the road.
Your friend is a very good mechanic with a keen eye for detail. Not many mechanics care enough to check all of that wiring. Really enjoying the series!
If you bring your vehicle to the right shop (and pay the right price of course) you will usually get good work...and a guarantee on the work to boot. Quality workmanship is not rare, you just have to pay for it and allow the the time necessary to to do the work properly
Extremely valuable information!!! I cannot thank these fine gentlemen enough for this life-changing series.
Excellent series, both in content and presentation. I make one comment related to brakes, based on my son's very similar experience of preparing his 105 series for overlanding.
Replacing brake disks and pads is only half of the job.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, and the absorption of water leads to degradation, the products of which cause corrosion and gumming up. In my opinion, very few braking systems are thoroughly bled, and normal bleeding procedures do not completely flush the degraded brake fluid from the slave cylinders. After 20 years, the rear slave cylinders in my son's vehicle had so gummed up that they would not retract when the brake pedal was released. The measures needed to free them indicated that braking efficiency had been seriously compromised. The only logical approach is to replace all brake seals on both slave and master cylinders. While you're at it, have the ABS system thoroughly checked - not just the unit, but all associated wiring and sensors.
I had cause to be very grateful to the man who overhauled the braking systems on my son's vehicle. Defensive driving techniques helped me avoid a collision, but a laden Land Cruiser needs all the braking power Toyota built into it!
i want a friend like paul marsh, talk of detail and experience damn son.
The slots in the rotors help a lot with gas and pad particles escaping when braking hard, they are also invaluable in wet weather breaking (allowing the moisture to escape). Although I have mixed thoughts with cross drilling on 4WDs as they can easily capture small stones and / or fill with mud and they also give you a slightly smaller surface area for the pad to bite in to for no real advantage in my opinion - yes I have had both (currently have slotted only as have had small stones chew into pads from being stuck in the cross drilled holes before). Just my experience.
I tend to agree with your thoughts and would also add that slotted and drilled rotors will warp a lot more quickly than plain rotors - this is from experience.
I agree as well, slotted but not grooved. Look at what serious road race cars use, slotted only. Cross drilling creates stress risers that give cracks a place to start. Cross drilling also removes mass than groves. Brakes work by converting kinetic energy to heat energy. The more heat a rotor can absorb the better. this is one reason why larger thicker rotors are better. The "grip test" to say the drilled/slotted rotor is better is laughable.
Boy, what a great break down on what to check and why! Really enjoying this video series Andrew! Thank you for sharing.
Paul, you are a calm and gentle with your crisp and true friend. Seems you make him think a lot! Expose the guys working on the 105 a bit more to the camera, would like to meet them as well. Thanks!
Really enjoying this series. Thanks for sharing.
This is an excellent series of videos.
Absolutely love the series.
Bravo Paul
Brilliant! Brilliant! Brilliant! I love these series of Vlogs
As someone who owns a 15+ year old vehicle, the information provided in these series of videos is killing my pocket haha
Wonderful series. Thanks again
Another excellent video, thanks.
Best Series , excited for this 105
This is a fantastic series. Thanks for the great content. I own a 2004 100 series in the US - best vehicle I’ve ever owned.
If you're taping wires I'd surgest using the proper wire loom tape and the braided hoses to replace the plastic wire hoses. You can get it on line via a few companies or at an auto shop.
And, thank you, Professor Marsh!
Rule number one, Find someone who knows what he's doing and stands by his work. Rule number two stand back and let them tear into the vehicle and explain what needs to be fixed. Rule number three write the cheque and let them fix it! Happy trails.
It's crazy what a bad earth can cause. I had a Discovery 2 TD5 and out of the blue one day at the lights it started shuddering and every warning light on the dash came up. Stalled and wouldn't start. 5 Mins later started fine drove another 500m happened again. Sat on the side of the road probing and testing stuff for an hour before finally figuring out the negative terminal on my battery was loose. Not even visible to the eye but enough for it to not make good contact.
And then a Golf flew by causing an accident?
Moving forward is optional stopping is mandatory. Always spend your money on very good breaks.
Great series Andre, thoroughly enjoying it.!!!
On a different note, can I suggest you install an hour meter in the dash while youre doing all this work, far better for monitoring life of parts and service intervals than distance, also fuel consumption, my driving is pretty constant so is fuel use approx. 5 litres per hour regardless of speed even in low box, very interesting series good work, cheers Roy.
And yes, I meant to say: great series! Great info!
Looks like it's coming together nicely... Not a fan of the Drilled/Slotted on a 4wd vehicle though. Rocks,Mud get inside those groves and can affect your braking and life of the rotor. D/S rotors are more of street/racing application.
I never had a problem with my 83 BJ wiring. My 65 MGB had a cloth wrapped harness.
The steepest incline I descended had the 'low brake fluid level' light come on for the master cylinder. Level, the fluid was somewhere between low and top.
learn a lot of this and also how not do it thank you Paul ,, wonderfull explained ,,, thank you for share this all
looking forward to the next one :-)
Fine series gentleman. Happy trails
thank you for detail video as know must every on 4wd before think of trip
Even though I don't have a LandCruiser (they are extremely thirsty in the US), I really like this series. It applies regardless of what you drive. Most people ignore most of the components on the rebuild which are important. Then you see them at the "Hail Mary" section of the auto parts store looking for a pour in solution because they haven't kept up with their maintenance.
They are thirsty in America because they are petrol. The rest of the world prefers diesel LandCruisers.
I like what you said about ingoring most of the components. Can I add, don't fit cheap parts or your super reliable Japanese machine slowly becomes a Chinese machine.
Would you drive a Chinese car across a desert?
@@harveysmith100 - Yeah, they say its because of emissions, I'm not sure how true or false that is but I'm sure the people in charge would never want us driving in diesels, getting way better mileage, messing with the oil based economy that not many Americans really know about. Unfortunately its difficult to tell where parts come from , I'm sure its China, and because of our highway system, one is never to far from an Auto Parts Store.
Coming along nicely Thanks for sharing ATB
The video looks in good condition
I think the wiring might be a bit tatty though.
This will b a fine rig when its finished, just add a tunned 5.9 cummins
Btw his troopy braking experience is why i put F250 brakes on mine, doubles braking effort for about 8k, nothing like having brakes designed to stop a rig double the wt of ur 78 hey
Electrical issues would be so difficult in the field. Such a great series.
Even worse with all the newer cars and their computers.
How did the BP 51 Old Man Emu coil overs preformed, I see you got some other on this truck.
Hey Paul, can you create a new old car for me too please? Not after power, just reliability and peace of mind. This project for Andrew is turning out better than a new one. You reckon there might be a market for renewed old, simple landcruisers? ...price of old landcruisers just shot up a couple of thousand.
Nice video but which kind of kits is good to use and where to find it in the internet
Great video thank you!
Excellent info from an experienced man but wish we could see some of the actual work on the car, installing the new rakes for instance...
What kind of brake pads are being fitted (organic, ceramic, semi-mettalic..?)? Also, how much, in total, will you be spending on all of the upgrades/work you’re doing?
If I hear ‘good quality kit’ again, I’m going to lose it!
Terry Cassar
This is a good quality comment
Well they are.
I hope he gets his money back from the bloke who sold him the vehicle. This must be costing a shitload. Never buy a car unseen I suppose?
Something tells me that the suspension from Terrain Tamer was not Andrews top choice but the sponsorship pushed it in.
Howzit Andrew, love your content, very inspirational. The downhill footage in this video at 2:30 mark, where is that located?
Victoria Highlands
Ok guys I love this series but have to raise a bit of concern about how those bearings where done in a professional shop. No 1 slapping half a tub of grease in the hubs is going to lead to overheating of the bearings. Grease should be applied and worked into the bearing races with a bit on the bearing face and that's it. All that grease in between the bearing does nothing but insulate the bearing and prevent heat loss. Then there is the installation of those outer races with a hammer directly on the edge if you dont have a bearing punch set, that one would expect in a professional garage at least use the old outer race on top of the new one so as to spread the impact and prevent damaging the race edges. Sorry to be critical but it is important that people research the correct bearing installation to get best service life, this in my opinion was not a good example of that. None the less the content of this series is great keep up the great work guys.
His name has to be Smith cause he is smithing the bearing in like a champ.
Bad earthing is the main cause of those disco lights you see at the back of some cars.
Everything is coming from the same supplier, so I suspect they’re a wholesaler rather than manufacturer. Their packaging appears to be very good, but I’m more interested in the quality of the components rather than their boxes. Given the nature of the biggest wholesaler of aftermarket parts for Land Rovers, I can’t help wonder about this brand. I know you’re being sponsored by them, so would have to be diplomatic, but how do they compare to OEM, not just in terms of value for money but plain quality?
a lot of bloody work on this car
there is no problem change engine and chassis and we are done
love the series but the part on the drilled brakes is completely cosmetic heck it hurts the rotor by creating stress spots that is why there are no drilled rotors in racong but the slotscare to help the gases emitted by the break pads escape essential cleaning the pads for a more efficient bite to the rotor
5:10 Drilled and Slotted on an Off Road vehicle
Won't you be chewing pads out and giving sand and advasives a place i hide
Are you guys upgrading the rear axle studs?
🤲 I with you guys all the way with wiring and electrical. Even more so with new 4x4 they are just computers on wheels. And one tiny electrical problem will kill the vehicle possibly in the middle of nowhere. I am trying to minimise electrics added to my vehicle electrical systems for this very reason not to give the “computer” a reason to play up.
One of biggest concerns is my vehicle has a push to start button what if this failed in the middle of the Simpson Desert etc... I would be F@$!...
Great series, thanks!
Regarding brake fade due to heat, drums expand and pedal goes to floor as diameter increases, however, discs expand and pedal stays up or firmer as the disc takes up more space, but brakes are fading. Does this ring true?
Brake fade on disc brakes (and also drum to some degree) is usually caused by brake pads that are above their operating temperature range, basically better performance pads have a higher rating (some easily up to 800'c) - most standard pads fail at anything over 350'c.
Brake fade is due to the fluid boiling in the lines in both drums and disk brakes.
The boiling of the fluid releases gases that allows your pedal to go to the floor.
Drums fade quicker as heat cannot escape them as easy, this is the main difference, not so much the expansion of metal.
The extreme heating of the friction material also causes the spongy feel.
As brake fluid is Hygroscopic (attracts water) it is important that brake fluid is flushed regularly, having excess water in the fluid causes the water to boil quickly and brakes fade almost immediately in heavy stops or descents.
Hope this helps.
Thank's Dingo Dazz and Pk3012 for your reply's. Most interesting! At last I have some solid information. Flush your brake fluid, now I get it!
@@wombatone5577 Yes, I do mine every 2 years regardless as water will lower the boiling point of the fluid, also use at least a DOT 4 (higher temperature than DOT 3) fluid.
@@dingodazz3724 When changing complete brake fluid every 2 years, or at other times adding fluid, please be careful if you use DOT 4 fluid in a car that specifies DOT 3. Some cars will accept it but others will not. Toyotas are notorious for not accepting it. The square section "O" ring in the brake callipers expand about 5% in cross section (or thereabouts) when DOT 4 is used. What results is that the rubbers are too tight and the calliper pistons do not retract when the brakes are released - had new rear brake pads wear down to zero (metal to metal) in less than a month. In Australia also found the same problem with Holden Commodore rear disc brakes. I am a retired mechanic and after contacting many brake specialists the best (and simplest) advice I received was from Burt Bros in Western Sydney, the largest brake folk in Australia - they have an excellent reputation. They said look at the cap on the master cylinder. If it says DOT 3, use DOT 3. If it says DOT 4 then use DOT 4. Some vehicle caps say you can use DOT 3 or DOT 4. I have followed that advice of only using DOT 3 where specified on the cap and since then have not had any problems.
Andrew do you ever think your overdoing it a little.... don't get me wrong I love looking at this and all the issues.... but I've just driven from Ireland to Thailand 38 different country's.... the world's worst roads, Omalo pass Georgia, Turkmenistan, palmir highway, Afghanistan, Iran, Mongolia, Tibet Nepal India Burma Laos Cambodia so on sitting on 53,000kms in a 22 year old diesel prado since th 1st of May... I've modified the back suspension with a 2" heavy duty spring(I've a lot of weight in the back) snorkel duel diesel tanks and split charger. Dug dug brumm every morning.... I've broken a break pipe middle of nowhere Myanmar 1hr fixed it and a bad earth on a battery caused the alternator to fail.(I had a spare) 1hr fixed it middle of nowhere Tajikistan. I did have to change bushings and ball joints in kazakhstan. Total cost of the prado(bought in 2012 and left in a shed for 6 years while I lived in oz) and modifications and repairs to get it here $9000 Australian. You must of spent that fixing this 105!?!
Which country this modification is taking place? SA or AU? Thank you
This is in South Africa
Can't wait for this build to finish!
Wait. Builds are never finished. nvm
Anyone knows where I could learn more about car electronic basics, I didn't find quality vids on ytube
power steering braking ? hydraulic assist braking give thata try
I'd love a 100 series, they can be got second hand here in Ireland easily... But they're all hovering at around €15k!!! Regardless of mileage condition etc... Is it worth it!?!?
This is a 105. It has the running gear of the 80 series but with the 100 body and interior I believe. The popularity of Land Cruisers has made them crazy expensive here in the US.
yes but basic commonsense still applies. Check for log book and service history, rust. Check radiator cap for " sludge ", white or grey substance under radiator cap, which indicates lack of oil changes. Change your PCV valve and transmission oil upon purchase. In fact change all oils and filters upon purchase. Check air suspension, Check air conditioning works. Check timing belt or chain. Very cheap insurance. And check forums. . The LC is one of the most reliable things on the road
ruclips.net/video/oY-jhXW4Aow/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/DFiQ3rY8ILE/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/W3xoakfCvLw/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/1Z4yek9oTfE/видео.html
@@ryanmartinage Does the 105 have the regular 80 series front axle? It is weak being a hilux diff. They go bang under load in reverse. The teeth arent made to withstand the reverse forces. But the locked diffs are stronger than the unlocked ones I read. I'm swapping an 80 front end in my 60 for the better coil suspension that goes with it but I'll be giving up some diff strength. But it is locked.
@@mark2073 The 105 ended in 2007 I believe and yes, Im pretty sure they did have the solid front as well. They're pretty coveted for the nicer interior space with the solid gear underneath with the 100 series having IFS as you know.
@@mark2073 I believe they do (as I used a 105 series front centre in my hilux rear housing many moons ago - I also had a genuine USA made Lock-right locker in it). There are things you can do to strengthen it, this link gives you some information: 4x4earth.com/forum/index.php?threads/toyota-diff-centre-up-grade-80-105-series-crusers.5434/
Why did you remove part 10 from the channel?
I'd be interested to know how you found part-10? It was posted unlisted, for Patreons only, until next week.
@@overland-workshop I got a notification and looked at it briefly at work. Now it is the weekend so I came to listen to you with a cup of coffee and i see it was removed. I have screen shot pic that I can send you. Thanks for everything
🎬🎥🔥
Coming along fairly quick. I wish I could say the same for my project. 😂
with you all the way buddy.
@@MiniLuv-1984 glad to know I'm not the only broke mf around, everyone seems to be doing well, but atleast I'm free from the trappings of the statutory system, it's a fair trade, being with value, without cash, instead of being cashed up but of little value outside their own bubble, never mind huh, what's for you won't go by you, though I miss out on a lot not having addresses or bank accounts or names and stuff like that.
@@JohnDoe-hy2op Hey, the challenge is to do with what's at hand. Sure, takes a lot more effort and time, but hey, what else could be as rewarding?
Have you checked out "post apocalyptic inventor" channel?
@@MiniLuv-1984 no benny but I will now, I've been tryi g to prep since the fn 90's but this system and the rodents within keep robbing me down to nothing.
Normally I set the play speed at 1.5 for youtube videos to get through them faster. But not these ones, they are regular speed!
Interesting. Do you like to be in control, generally?
@@chrisfi3d Are you a shrink?
Just a guy who thinks beyond the normality of day to day life. Do you consider yourself the ‘alpha male’ in a group situation?
@@chrisfi3d I am beta
Just sounds like a bloke who wants to watch a few RUclips videos but doesn’t have a shit load of time to do it...
Drilled and slotted rotors... Let me begin by saying I don't see a problem with using them in this application. The cross drilled holes and slots will help clean dirt, mud, and other debris off of the braking surfaces.
Now, to address the misconception that they improve braking performance. They don't inherently improve braking performance. The holes and slots are there for the same reason as the grooves on tires, and they are there to evacuate water, snow, mud, etc. Cross drilled holes and slots are there because old brake pad from say the 1970's would off-gas at high temperatures. The highest temperatures that brakes would endure during that time was in motorsport. The brakes pads would actually off gas enough and the gas would have enough pressure that at times the gas would push the brake pads away from the rotor causing diminished braking performance, which when on track would usually result in a off track excursion and someone having a very bad day (potentially fatal during that era). The brake rotors were first cross drilled to provide a escape path for the gas coming from the brake pads. The holes tend to crack though and can cause rotor failure. Slots were introduced later and are less prone to cracking (and thus rotor failure) and also provide for more even pad wear because the slot covers a larger area of the brake pad.
New brake pads use different materials and so the off gassing is not the problem it used to be and drilled and slotted rotors are not necessary anymore. Because of the potential for rotor failure drilled and/or slotted rotors are no longer even preferred for track use. Braking performance relies on the friction coefficient between the pads and rotors and is directly related to "swept surface area" of the pads/rotors. Holes and slots reduce the surface area that the pads contact and thus reduce the amount of friction between the two surfaces. A good comparison would again be tires. Race cars use "slicks" because they have a greater surface area which means a greater friction coefficient and thus more traction. Brakes work the same way. But, just like you wouldn't use racing "slicks" off road I agree with the usage of the cross-drilled and slotted rotors for this application.
Sorry for the dissertation.
I did feel an improvement in the braking performance of this vehicle, although it was not a significant difference. Thanks for the dissertation. All good stuff.
@@overland-workshop Thanks, I'm glad you liked my comment and glad you saw a improvement in braking anyway. If I had to guess I would say the new brake pads have much better performance than the stock Toyota pads.
0-100 kmh / 15.6 sec : 100-0 kmh / 3.1 sec = Brakes + Tyre
It’s a pitty about this build series, interesting as it is but I expected more filming of the actual work being done. Paul is very knowledgeable but with more of the actual building. Enjoy 😊
That wiring is a mess. I’d replace it all
Nothing worse than dodgey-ass wiring on a second-hand vehicle.
Andrew - can you please tell me who sings your intro song ? Ty
Only Way Is Down - John Lingard
Hammering on that bearing race with a steel hammer makes me cringe...... use brass!!!!
Brakes with grooves and holes explanation was utterly wrong. Rally cars at most have groves to help dislodge a stick rock, the holes don’t help any ventilation they just look good, 50 years ago holes were for the off gassing, today it’s not a concern
Wow that wiring was crap. You never know what a second hand car has been through.
This guy is severely misinformed on what rotors like that do to your braking performance . I'd suggest looking into it yourself or paying somebody who knows better and is not just pushing a product.
poor bastard he's almost as ocd as me about quality of workmanship.
damn it seems like the Japanese are the same as Germans over engineering at it's finest
Modern German vehicles are rubbish compared to Japanese.
I cringe when a mechanic talks about shocks! The only shock I ever get is when they give me the bill!!!
So much noise
That short earth wire sits not in the right place..... If you buy a land cruiser from me i tell you all the things right. He tells a lot off rubbish and selling lots off parts that are not necessary. Belgium, only 6 cilinders.
7;
The explanations are too long...more video of the work being done would make the series more interesting I believe.
Andrew I like your videos but christ you can go on and on and on too much about brakes! luckily we can skip forward
Oh, you poor man! Good heavens! You had to skip. I hope you have a better day tomorrow.