***Important Notice: Please always slew a newly built up rig around to check for cable snags E.g if you are using the AM5 mount at low latitudes it might be best to swap the guide scope and ASI Air positions around to prevent the cables getting caught when tracking close to meridian flip. The advice given in this video is based on the AM5 manual, but I've just seen the following FB post: facebook.com/photo/?fbid=5319564478142830&set=g.1126276471511747***
Thanks Tony! I've had one guided imaging session on the fish head nebula since recording this video, but I need to sort out some dew control. The night started out well but guiding went down hill as the guide scope dewed up and the Tak also dewed up so the stars look a little blobby lol I recorded the whole night so may still post it as a learning experience :)
Similar to you, I put my ASI Air Mini on side of mount and my tiny ZWO guide scope and ASI120 guide camera on side of saddle plate. But I bought very short power and USB cables with 90 degree connectors. For AM5 to ASI Air, they move together, so you can wrap them nice and tight under the ASI Air. Since I’m using a mirrorless camera still, I only need one flexible USB cable to the guide camera. I got a coiled one with fabric sheathing and 90 degree connectors. It wraps one lap around the black part of AM5 right under the saddle plate. That one lap can vary from 0.5 to 1.5 laps as declination changes, but the fabric and coils absorb all the difference. I have no dangling cables at all. You don’t even see the cables when you look at my setup. Well, you do see the one power cable from my Jackery to the AM5. I got a 90 degree connector for that. And I spliced the cable to have the unusual and hard-to-find Jackery 12V output barrel connector. Two last items of note. I have no collisions in part because of the 90 degree cables on ASI Air side. And also, I have to put the Az clamp levers flush with the sides of the AM5 so they don’t stick out. Also, the tiny ZWO guide scope clamping screw comes close, but clears the mount. I’m not sure with your bigger ASI Air and bigger guide scope if you have clearance. And finally the last item of note. The AM5 travel case has foam relief already for the finder shoe on the side of the saddle plate. That’s nice. And since I don’t use their hand controller, my ASI Air Mini fits nicely into n that spot inside the case. Anyway, I’m super pleased how everything came together and how awesome my cable management looks like there aren’t any cables. And since I change scopes and camera lenses, it’s perfect to have the guider on side of the saddle plate no matter which setup I’m using. It just makes sense. Cheers.
Dear Astro lavista, the timing of this video was perfect. I just purchased the AM5 plus asi air plus, and 2600Duo. Still all in boxes I can tell you my bank balance has been seriously damaged. Previously I was using a tracker and a Sony DSLR, so a major change. I do have one question that you may have some knowledge on ( filters I am debating the L ultimate but wondering if the guide sensor will even see stars Given I live in the Northwest of the Uk Bortle 8. Any advice would be really appreciated Thanks again David
Hey David, congratulations on your new mount and camera :) Much depends on your telescopes speed / focal ratio. A 3nm filter will work with the Duo at f/4 but not f/7 as shown by Nico's testing here: ruclips.net/video/G1c-NVhixOQ/видео.html Whilst less harsh filters like the L-eNhance will be fine with slower focal ratios. If you have on camera guiding I would consider attaching your ASI Air (if you have one) to the side of the saddle where I have my guide scope. This way it's further out of the way reducing the chance of a cable snag. Clear skies!
Great video. Appreciate the POV presentation and clear explanation of your setup. Hope you can follow this up with some other videos in the same degree of detail.
nice rig you got there mate! clear skies and enjoy it 😊 I think I'll have to make my own harmonic drive mount as I cannot afford such beauty as yet ... the mission is to drive my C11 to the skies sans counterweights at sub 0.5 arcsecs using my Samyang 135 as my guidescope sampling at 0.2 or 0.5 secs ... if and when I am done I'll send you a unit to play with 😅
Hey thanks :) Well there is an impressive video on YT where someone did exactly that; apart from sending it to me to play with lol. Have you seen this? ruclips.net/video/k2GoMa2DpH8/видео.html
@@Astrolavista yup 👍 I've seen that one ... the lucky git has access to top machinery and had robot parts lying around... I got a basket full of hopes and dreams but I'm pretty technical and can solder and build ... and got a pretty decent grasp of astro gear
Thanks for bringing this up! I will pin a comment :) The manual states that you can place your ASI Air on the provided finder shoe, however, I've just seen that ZWO did release the following on FB: facebook.com/photo/?fbid=5319564478142830&set=g.1126276471511747. I don't think it's a problem at my latitude and if you fix the ASI Air sideways so the cables are out away from the mount, but I can see how this could cause a cable snag if you use the mount at low latitudes. I should have mentioned that it's good practice to slew a new rig around under supervision to check for possible collisions or cable snags.
Lots of updates needed to this video. First ZWO warns to NOT attach the ASI AIR on the side of the mount as you did. Very likely to have contact as it slews around and the motors are so powerful you WILL damage ports or rip cables apart. Best place for the ASI AIR is on top of the telescope....avoids interferrence.... and allows stronger uninterrupted wireless connection. Last warning is o NOT wrap those cables around the ASI AIR box..... and also try to keep the power cable from mount to ASI AIR away from the camera USB cable. Otherwise you can get interferrence of the wireless signal. Final setup needs to be tested for slewing in all possible directions at home to make sure no cab le snags or port interferrence.
I think most would power the cameras cooler from the power hub on the ASI Air in which case you need two cables, a USB cable to transfer information and a 2.1mm to 2.1mm cable to provide power to the cameras cooler.
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***Important Notice: Please always slew a newly built up rig around to check for cable snags E.g if you are using the AM5 mount at low latitudes it might be best to swap the guide scope and ASI Air positions around to prevent the cables getting caught when tracking close to meridian flip. The advice given in this video is based on the AM5 manual, but I've just seen the following FB post: facebook.com/photo/?fbid=5319564478142830&set=g.1126276471511747***
Great tutorial Chris, looking forward to see ing this set up under some dark clear skies
Thanks Tony! I've had one guided imaging session on the fish head nebula since recording this video, but I need to sort out some dew control. The night started out well but guiding went down hill as the guide scope dewed up and the Tak also dewed up so the stars look a little blobby lol I recorded the whole night so may still post it as a learning experience :)
Greta video, very useful, just FYI, you got your USB A and B the wrong way round, the square stubby end is USB type B not A..👍🏻
Oh flip, got them mixed up lol Thanks for the heads up :)
We all do it…👍🏻
Exactly 😢
Similar to you, I put my ASI Air Mini on side of mount and my tiny ZWO guide scope and ASI120 guide camera on side of saddle plate. But I bought very short power and USB cables with 90 degree connectors. For AM5 to ASI Air, they move together, so you can wrap them nice and tight under the ASI Air. Since I’m using a mirrorless camera still, I only need one flexible USB cable to the guide camera. I got a coiled one with fabric sheathing and 90 degree connectors. It wraps one lap around the black part of AM5 right under the saddle plate. That one lap can vary from 0.5 to 1.5 laps as declination changes, but the fabric and coils absorb all the difference. I have no dangling cables at all. You don’t even see the cables when you look at my setup. Well, you do see the one power cable from my Jackery to the AM5. I got a 90 degree connector for that. And I spliced the cable to have the unusual and hard-to-find Jackery 12V output barrel connector. Two last items of note. I have no collisions in part because of the 90 degree cables on ASI Air side. And also, I have to put the Az clamp levers flush with the sides of the AM5 so they don’t stick out. Also, the tiny ZWO guide scope clamping screw comes close, but clears the mount. I’m not sure with your bigger ASI Air and bigger guide scope if you have clearance. And finally the last item of note. The AM5 travel case has foam relief already for the finder shoe on the side of the saddle plate. That’s nice. And since I don’t use their hand controller, my ASI Air Mini fits nicely into n that spot inside the case. Anyway, I’m super pleased how everything came together and how awesome my cable management looks like there aren’t any cables. And since I change scopes and camera lenses, it’s perfect to have the guider on side of the saddle plate no matter which setup I’m using. It just makes sense. Cheers.
Dear Astro lavista, the timing of this video was perfect. I just purchased the AM5 plus asi air plus, and 2600Duo. Still all in boxes
I can tell you my bank balance has been seriously damaged. Previously I was using a tracker and a Sony DSLR, so a major change.
I do have one question that you may have some knowledge on ( filters I am debating the L ultimate but wondering if the guide sensor will even see stars
Given I live in the Northwest of the Uk Bortle 8. Any advice would be really appreciated
Thanks again
David
Hey David, congratulations on your new mount and camera :) Much depends on your telescopes speed / focal ratio. A 3nm filter will work with the Duo at f/4 but not f/7 as shown by Nico's testing here: ruclips.net/video/G1c-NVhixOQ/видео.html Whilst less harsh filters like the L-eNhance will be fine with slower focal ratios. If you have on camera guiding I would consider attaching your ASI Air (if you have one) to the side of the saddle where I have my guide scope. This way it's further out of the way reducing the chance of a cable snag. Clear skies!
Great video. Appreciate the POV presentation and clear explanation of your setup. Hope you can follow this up with some other videos in the same degree of detail.
Thanks Marvin, I will do my best :)
Appreciate the video, certainly helped me . Thank you
Thanks for posting this.
nice rig you got there mate!
clear skies and enjoy it 😊
I think I'll have to make my own harmonic drive mount as I cannot afford such beauty as yet ...
the mission is to drive my C11 to the skies sans counterweights at sub 0.5 arcsecs using my Samyang 135 as my guidescope sampling at 0.2 or 0.5 secs ...
if and when I am done I'll send you a unit to play with 😅
Hey thanks :) Well there is an impressive video on YT where someone did exactly that; apart from sending it to me to play with lol. Have you seen this? ruclips.net/video/k2GoMa2DpH8/видео.html
@@Astrolavista yup 👍
I've seen that one ... the lucky git has access to top machinery and had robot parts lying around...
I got a basket full of hopes and dreams but I'm pretty technical and can solder and build ... and got a pretty decent grasp of astro gear
The attachment of the AAP makes it suceptible to interference damage to cables and antennae with the mount. ZWO warns of this problem.
Thanks -- that was helpful.
I think zwo said not to put the air in that location.
Thanks for bringing this up! I will pin a comment :) The manual states that you can place your ASI Air on the provided finder shoe, however, I've just seen that ZWO did release the following on FB: facebook.com/photo/?fbid=5319564478142830&set=g.1126276471511747.
I don't think it's a problem at my latitude and if you fix the ASI Air sideways so the cables are out away from the mount, but I can see how this could cause a cable snag if you use the mount at low latitudes. I should have mentioned that it's good practice to slew a new rig around under supervision to check for possible collisions or cable snags.
Thank you.
Lots of updates needed to this video. First ZWO warns to NOT attach the ASI AIR on the side of the mount as you did. Very likely to have contact as it slews around and the motors are so powerful you WILL damage ports or rip cables apart. Best place for the ASI AIR is on top of the telescope....avoids interferrence.... and allows stronger uninterrupted wireless connection. Last warning is o NOT wrap those cables around the ASI AIR box..... and also try to keep the power cable from mount to ASI AIR away from the camera USB cable. Otherwise you can get interferrence of the wireless signal. Final setup needs to be tested for slewing in all possible directions at home to make sure no cab le snags or port interferrence.
You may have missed the pinned comment
a question, if my main camera is a apc s cooled camera, is there only 1 cable that goes to the asi air plus
I think most would power the cameras cooler from the power hub on the ASI Air in which case you need two cables, a USB cable to transfer information and a 2.1mm to 2.1mm cable to provide power to the cameras cooler.
I don’t think you explained why one would film the moon to get a picture instead of just taking the pictures with the phone :)