Shorter Cutoff Times on your Horizontal Bandsaw
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Wide flat plate and large diameter material can take a lot of time to saw off in a horizontal bandsaw. This video shows some tricks to greatly reduce those times. Take a Look !!
Hey Joe.. thanks for the tips as always.
Some thoughts. An other reason for the variable tooth pattern is to prevent chatter. It keeps the chatter marks out of phase with the teeth.
As a rule we try to have no less than 4 and no more than twenty five teeth in the work. This not always possible on wide work. Too few it can snag and break off teeth, too many and the gullet packs and may jam with chip. Here is where down feed adjustment can save the day. Slow up the rate to where is carrying a heavy chip but not full.
The down feed is also supper important for accuracy. Ideally there would be very limited bean load on blade. Just enough to keep it cutting but the saws forward progress controlled by the external feed not the tooth tip in the work.. Beam load stresses the blade and tends to make the blade want to flop off line. It can also cause tooth snag in weird profiles ( like gang cutting box tube), as well as reduce burr size.
Ellis saw company has some great info on this. It has saved many blades over the years.
One other painfully learned tip. If a tooth snags breaks off in the work, abandon the cut. You will keep distroying blades otherwise on the hardened broken tooth.
I like putting the stock up on parallels methiod. It helps keep the stock square to the fence ( especially in thin wide stock that can be floppy tipped up. ... 1/8" x8" for example)
Wow, this got long winded. Sorry. Be safe everyone.
I tend to introduce the down feed gradually as a rule. Let the blade get a good groove on, then max it out to your target setting. For this example, I maxed it out right from the start. Your broken tooth comment translates to milling as well. An embedded chunk of carbide from a broken end mill can claim a lot of victims if you don't watch the next approach carefully.
I came to method 2 by accident. Had stock that was too wide for my 1930s era bandsaw. So in at and angle she went not thinking about the geometry advantage. I've been doing it that way for years now.
Got a trick for cutting through 1 1/2 in titanium in less than 9 1/2 years 😝
cmonster6, Inclined approach works well, Titanium needs sharp teeth and high force. Titanium has nearly half the value of thermal conductivity of steel, so very susceptible to work hardening. Hope this helps 😀.
@@bostedtap8399 Rubbin is not cuttin....
I always wondered why people lay their flat stock, well, flat into the vise. For me it makes more sense standing them upright. Of course that won't work for material that is too wide, so your solution to this is really ingenious.
Thanks. Sometimes I cut longer lengths that hold multiple parts and do the smaller cutoff work on my vertical saw. My vertical doall would walk through that plate in about 20 seconds.
Thanks Joe, a good demonstration and a nicely paced video.
I'm off to the shop to add a top bar to my fixed jaw.
Keep the tips and tricks coming, they are really valuable to us home taught amateur machinists.
Cheers Paul in NZ
This is why I always cut box section rotated at 45 degrees. It cuts quicker and is better for the blade. Angle also should be cut with the corner up rather than an 'L' configuration for the same reason.
Joe, Great video. I would be interested in checking the squareness of each condition. I would expect the squareness to be inverse to the speed of the cut as positioned, especially if the blade is slightly worn. The blade may tend to wander more on the "tipped" cut. It may not matter if you are milling the part square. Another advantage of the tipped cut is you have increased the capacity (width) of the cut. I have the same saw and can only get 8-9 inch wide laying horizontal. Great idea. I will try that modification. Thanks
There are other benefits of this technique (tilting to reduce length-of-contact). When the blade tooth enters the work, it starts heating, until it emerges, and then cools while it is taking the trip around. Bandsaw speeds are set based on material thickness, and can be set faster on thinner engagements. In addition, when cutting plastics, melting can be avoided. (Slowing the saw to avoid melting is counterproductive. Heating rate is slower, but time in the cut is longer, almost nullifying the benefit.) When cutting plastic U-shaped pieces, jigging them at an angle reduces melting. Selection of the angle can direct the bur to a surface easier to access for deburring.
Unfortunately, most of the vices I have encountered on horizontal bandsaws are crap, and hold material poorly. They have difficulty with either very short or very long pieces. Somebody needs to put "Kurt quality" vice on a bandsaw.
Good point on the cooling! That makes a lot of sense.
I'm a guy that has a plane to catch and I don't have a lot of time to watch my band saw cut material. I totally agree with you on your tricks. Another one that I have used is when cutting deep holes with a hole saw in wood or metal, grind every other tooth away. This increases the gullet of the blade and allows for much more swarf to be "swallowed" by the gullet . If you have too many fine teeth running over to long a cut, they will load up and the whole process will slow down. If the the gullet space between two teeth fills up before those two teeth get to the end of the cut, then gnawing and friction takes over and everything slows down. Good video, Joe!
Exactly the reason holesaws are slow compared to an annular cutter. Fine teeth quickly load up. This is the reason that in steel for example, they should be frequently withdrawn from the cut, blown or brushed somewhat free of swarf and then re-entered into the cut. This practice along with copious amount of lubricant (flooding is best) will help your holesaws last a very long time. A drain hole(s) drilled with a twist drill through the material in advance in the kerf of the blade also helps. It gives a place for the swarf to go. Without the holes the kerf should be cleaned every time you clean the holesaw. Did I mention the RPM should be low? (I had a set of beater hole saws that I kept just for my young neighbor to use because he was a pedal to the metal type of guy!)
Blade tracking becomes more important when less teeth are cutting with the same total force. Odd numbers of teeth is preferable. Bear claw style varying pitch makes sense for your set ups here. Small changes in blade tension or guides affect blade harmonics and cut surfaces. Well worth experimenting. Thanks Joe
Is it surface contact or chip clearance? I suspect the chip clearance is the bigger issue. Those little gullets in the blade have to carry all the chips across the part and out the cut. If they are full, the blade can't cut. I suspect that's why wood band saws often have skip tooth blades.
Exactly what I was thinking. Otherwise, you'd expect that with more teeth in contact and simultaneously cutting at any given moment, more contact would actually be more efficient. In that case the fastest cut would be perfectly parallel with the long surface for maximum contact. If you've got big enough gullets, I think that might actually be the case. But in real life, you need somewhere for the chips to go, so with more than an a few inches of a blade like this one buried in the stock, the leading teeth quickly lose their effectiveness as they are obstructed by swarf buildup. I've certainly had that experience when re-sawing wide boards.
I suspect it's a bit of both: Yes the gullets can get filled up, but the other factor is surface area, and pressure. As the contact area increases, the pressure per tooth decreases, which means that each tooth won't bite into the material as deeply. Given a constant surface speed, increasing the pressure per tooth increases the feed per tooth.
Another amazing idea from Joe. I have been cutting with flat bars on a slant since forever. Trying to feel the angle where the plate is secure and steep enough to be viable and not too steep that it pops out of the vise has always added the pucker factor to the operation. Bar on the fixed vise jaw, who would of thunk it. Thanks for the great tip.
I know that spot. Its small, but works. Be sure to check out the multiple round bar cutting video that uses this bar. It will help.
I am not a machinist, and at 70+ yrs I doubt I will ever try to be; still I enjoy watching and learning about your trade.
I appreciate you tuning in. Thanks.
The blade wear reduces too along with chip clearing being more efficient.
When cutting tube especially thin wall it is necessary to back off the feed as the area of contact with the blade reduces.
The blade easily jams if you don't.
On production quantities of tube I used to hang a weight on a chain to increase the feed.
As the cut progressed it automatically reduced the pressure when the weight hit the floor.
Clever idea.
39 years experience and damn if you didn't teach me something new LOL.
Cocking the plate up at an angle that is.
I was surprised to hear you say you do not adjust RPM on your saw!
You cut 6061 Alum. and 316 S/S at the same RPM?
where the hell did you work? this method is as old as the horizontal saw itself
@@davidjones-vx9ju At least he learned to use capital letters and punctuation properly when he writes.
#2 you wont spill the coolant on the floor, it cant follov the stock. Sorry bad english.
You are correct. Much cleaner.
Am I missing something or wouldn’t your second method also let a small saw cut a little wider plate?
I never considered that. You may be quite right.
Rotating that bar may make it cut faster but it sure seems like a good way to wind up getting your cut not straight as it can be difficult to get lined back up exactly the same.
I recently cut some 9inch 304ss and at the half way can't move the blade up because the stress in material closed the gap...
Yuk
Great video and ideas Joe, thank you!
That was interesting, you brought up a few points I had not thought of such as angling flat stock. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the heads up, Joe and for taking the time to share this with us.
Play Safe From Elliot Lake Ontario Canada.
Update: OK - I just cut two billets from 2/38 6061 T6 with my el cheap harbor freight band saw - has a 7TPI blade. The straight through cut took 5 min 40 sec. I let the saw run 2 minutes into the next piece, briefly stopped the saw and rotated the work about 90 degrees with the existing cut on the exit side. I did leave the stopwatch running (only fair) but I'm sure that took less than 10 seconds. The cut finished in 5 min 32 seconds. SO - a little faster but not much. Makes more sense to me with wide flat pieces.
Years ago i milled two key ways in the back vice jaw one up one inch another up three inches saved a lot of blades.
Hi Joe hope your well Dude :) Don't have a band saw as yet but when I do I'll remember this one. TFS, G :)
Busy, but doing good. Thanks.
All the methods you showed were good comparison in the time frame, best tip I took out of this is the mod to the fixed jaw. Thanks Joe from John Australia.
PS: I usually learn from your videos and you did not let me down, thanks Mate.
I really could of used this about 3 months ago we spend almost 5 hours cutting wide stock for a tag holding system. And everything turned out great and we got everything done in a few days. But I'm telling you know Joe we probably could of effectively done this in 1 or maybe 1 1/2 days. Again very valuable information you always share thank you Joe!
Next time.
Thanks for the info Joe, will come in handy for future projects.
Any way you could do a video on setting up the blade in the bandsaw? I bought a bandsaw 6 months ago and can’t get a blade to last more than an hour at most before it breaks. I’ve about given up on the thing.
Keep the guides as close as you can to the width of the material. if you cut 1" wide material, don't have the rollers and guides 6" apart. Blade flex, micro fractures.....BOOM
@@joepie221 I think that might be my problem. I can't adjust my guides any closer than 6"
Excellent information.Thank you
Now that's what I call using your head for more than a hat rack
Nice video Joe. Many of the bigger saws I ran had a picture of how to orient different shaped stock. Mainly I believe for consistency. I was taught to have the most teeth engagement as possible. But clearly your demonstration illustrates an accurate and efficient manner for cutting wider stock. Thanks for posting!
Good lesson. And I do remember the 5 pieces in the band saw way back. Mine has been modified right after the first lesson. I told you that you should open up a machinist school.
Extraordinary never would have guessed at that improvement!!!
This is why it is important to reference the blade's purpose as designed by the manufacturer, some blades are optimized for %100 engagement with the material, some blades are optimized for partial engagement i.e. for cutting structural shapes. The manufacturer has designed the profile/rake/ and overall geometry of the tooth profile for cutting in specific applications for example stack cutting, or HSS (hollow Structural Shape) in which as the blade passes through the material different tooth engagements occur at different times. Good video as expected Joe.
Hey Joe, I very much appreciate your video and technical explanation about machining. But think about upgrading your audio system, the sound quality is below standard. Great video, thanks!
@02:20 Heh... Instantly reminded me of my 750 Discovery PRO's black 15" CF Props ( i.imgur.com/BOYWGIB.jpg )… Once they're spinning against a dark background ( concrete / tar / lawn ) they'd effectively turn invisible. I'm not kidding... I once had an interested guy not familiar with RC tech but not with Multicopters come along and ask me what kind of weird car this is and why it's making such a racket when it's just standing there - When I shut down the motors he was visibly shocked at the twin Kitchenknife sized Props AND not being able to see them while running.
The Round Stock Example Is ,The Same As Using A Chain Saw On Firewood ,Thank You For Your Videos , Been Machining For Ever ,Never Saw The Angle Trick ,Good Job !!!
Joe, I do a similar trick as example 2 but I use a substantial piece of angle iron, point up, between the jaws with the end just short of the blade and clamp the material to be cut to the lead side which puts it at a 45 degree angle. Works well when cutting stainless and other hard materials as well as thinner stuff like 16 and 14 guage stuff. Thanks for your informative videos.
I'm a hobby machinist with manual tools. Isn't this common sense?
Swan Donovan this is something that seems to be in short supply as compared to previous generations.
Indeed I have been using the same tricks when there was nothing better than just a hand hacksaw, a dull one at that. Saves body wear and aggravation. On top of that, what joy using a brand new Starrett hack saw blade!
Good tips. Never thought about the round stock one, will have to give that a try.
Very Clever Joe! Method 3 would still allow you to cut angles using the normal protractor as well.
Good point Mr. Crispin. Thanks for the comment.
Its cause of weight per tooth. your saw arm only weighs x amount,.. as more teeth make contact with the work piece you end up with less pressure per tooth.
Its also due to chip clogging / loading, the blade only has so much room between the teeth for chips to stay until dumped at the end of the cut path, If you put more weight on the blade the chip size increases and the blade either jams or rides on chips. Each blade has a designed chip loading that must be matched for how long the tooth travels before allowing escapement of the chips.
The easiest way to demonstrate this is with the hole saw trick were you drill a hole for chip escapement to vastly increase the speed that you can cut a hole using a hole saw.
By tilting the material he optimizes chip loading buy reducing the cut length to a inch or so.
@@another1commenter770 Right on. That's why there are many pitches of band saw blade. Minimum of more than two tooth in contact at anytime. And the volume of the gulley between tooth should be big enough to store the chips until exit. This is a function of how long the cut will be.
Great Joe, I milled a 45 degree slot on my stationary vise side about 1/4" from the top and a 1/4" deep.
Mine has been working great for years.
Very simple but effective modification. Nice.
Thank you Mr Pieczinski. I had it in mind to do a couple of mods to my cheap band saw. You know, the usual thing about extending the vice jaws and adding a screw on the far side of the moving jaw so you can clamp short stock. Then I saw this video about adding a removable bar to the fixed jaw for clamping plate at an angle. So I did that too. It really works well and I've used it a few times already. Great tip, many thanks.
Glad to hear it.
Something else I've found useful is adding a second coolant nozzle to the drive wheel side, ahead of the blade guide rollers (bearings). The coolant stream helps to flush off any chips that are stuck to the blade after leaving the cut. It reduces the chance of chips getting wedged between the blade and the guide bearings and it helps to cut down the buildup of chips on the gullet cleaner too. (The rotating wire wheel under the blade.) I installed a T-fitting into the coolant hose and rigged up another shut off valve and a piece of copper tubing on a bracket that I attached to the second roller guide block. Most of the larger horizontal saws I've seen have a nozzle at each end, and it was a simple upgrade to do - so I did... 😁
That was a genious demonstration. For shoestring budget guy like me angle cutting will greatly improve blade life.
It certainly should.
Good tips, however I can't imagine rotating that solid bar half way through a cut and ending up with the end being flush/true? No doubt that wouldn't work for me at least. Lol
If you have a pointed stop, set it as close to the center of the bar as possible. If you plan to face the bar anyway, the mismatch won't matter.
Bandsaws don't cut true square anyways, so it doesn't matter.
@@5starmachineko971 Yes, that's true, near enough is fine for what I do for the majority of the time.
Why did I not think that! Thanks for
Very useful tips, especially applied in mild steel .
More great tips to keep in the old memory bank. Thank you. It looks like my 7X12 is now destined for some additional holes in the fixed jaw.
You'll be glad you did.
Very interesting never thought to cut at an angle like that.
Great idea when you can’t put your material on edge. I’ve found running the blade at a faster speed made a world of difference. Also found no difference in blade life without running coolant it’s so messy
With the material tilted, the coolant runs downhill back into the machine and not onto the floor or along the stock. 2 benefits to doing it this way.
By tilting the material you can also run the guides a little closer.
Another really useful tip and one I have never come across before. Thanks Joe.
Very interesting, I'll definitely use it in my shop 😊 Thx Joe!
Great tips🖒 thank you for sharing
I have an old Amada HA-250 and for stock like that I use a 3-4 blade.
However it also has hydraulic down feed so the feed is controlled.
Thanks Joe!
Is the hydraulic downfeed, power, or just a gravity controller?
Great tip! I tend to accept the time cost more than you would or should, but that’s because I’ve never sat down and really tuned my bandsaw in to perfectly square. It’s an Ellis mitering bandsaw, so that’s a bit more touchy, and I find that in this sort of material, I get a lot more blade wander in the vertical position than in the horizontal, and I assume the angle would be in between. Thoughts?
The angle still offers more teeth per inch than a vertical setup, so I would expect closer to horizontal results, just faster.
ONE OF THE MOST USEFUL VIDEO I EVER WATCH ON RUclips .. THANKS MAN FOR YOUR GOLD TIME
Glad you liked it!
Pieczynski your to a machinist as a whet stone is to a blade, keeping me sharp!
Thanks for the compliment.
simply effective. thank you
Thanks again, Joe! But now I have to figure out how to afford a bandsaw!! 🤣
" Buy nice or buy twice ". Don't cheap out on a horizontal bandsaw. You'll regret it.
Ok As usual a very clever presentation. One think that is worth mentioning is that you are using a sharp H. S. blade as opposed to the cheaper ones. If you are cutting a hard material such as stainless it is a must. The other thing worth mentioning is the importance of having the blade aligned with the swing of the blade. After cutting off a part check to see if the blade springs. If it does then you probably have and alignment problem. And finally on a wide part such as this when you are running collant you can place a wet rag across the material to act as a dam. Nice Video.
A side benefit of a tilted setup like this, is gravity puts the coolant right back in the tray. It does not walk down the material like a flat setup.
Well, I don't know about the rest of you guys, but this guy is going to add a fence to the fixed jaw right now. and I don't even cut wide plate that much.
Me too. This is a fine idea. I can see the bar there helping out with other things as well.
Go back and watch the video where I cut 5 round bars at the same time. This machine modification is very useful.
I have cut small structural steel beams and I found they cut quicker put in as an H than as an I. I hadn't really thought why but this explains it perfectly. Thanks once more for your insight and excellent teaching.
Thanks for watching.
Cool trick. I think I will try it next coaster run.
Its certainly faster.
Very slick trick. As always, thank you for the education!
Hi Eric. Good to hear from you. Thanks for checking in. BTW......My wife gave a double thumbs up to those special beers.
Thanks, Great video as always.
Some things to note.
1) One of the reason for variable pitch blades eg 2-3 TPI 3-4 TPI 5-8, 6-10 TPI and so is to reduce resonance when cutting. It you have a constant pitch blade it will have a "cutting frequence" associate with it which can cause resonance if the item you are cutting has a natural frequence near that of the blades "cutting frequency"
2) unfortunately cutting narrow materials vs wide materials normally should require changing blades eg 1/4" material should use about a 10-14 thru 6-10 TPI Blade , where as 1" thick material should use about a 5-8 thru 3-4 TPI blade. The best TPI will also depending on material type and item geometry.
The reason for Lower TPI for thicker materials is those Lower TPI ie Bigger Teeth also have a bigger Gullet (the trough between teeth) which is where the waste material accumulates through the cut ans then falls out at the end of the cut.
If you have a high TPi with wide material the gullet fills up in the firsts part of the cut and then for the remainder of the cut the teeth cant dig in and do much more cutting and rather now the teeth tend to just skate over the surface which accelerates blade wear.
Also using a low TPI blade on narrow material is bad for the blade, as the blade tends to "bounce" with only 1 or 2 teeth in contact with the cutting surface and as that tooth exits the cut the blade drops down with the uncut material going into the gullet, then this bounce can cause broken teeth.
So ideally you should have 2 or 3 blades with significantly different TPI and change the blade when you cut different material.
I would suggest
10-14, 8-12 or 6-10 TPI for thin Materials eg 1/4"-1/2"
5-8, 4-6 or 3-4 for medium materials eg 3/4"-3"
2-3, 1.5-2 or 1-1.3 for wide materials eg 4"+
If you cut lots of both thin and wide materials and its a pain to always be changing blades, invest in 2nd small Horz bandsaw for the small materials and keep the High TPi blade fitted to it and the larger Horz band has the low TPI blade.
Think of it like changing blades on an angle grinder from thin cut off disc vs thick grinding disc vs flap disc vs sanding paper disc they all have different applications. Similarly people have different angle grinders dedicated to different disc types.
Ya thats a Honda 750 in the back ground. Like you read my mind I’m paying more attention to the bike than the saw. What year is it?
Typical of me to be distracted by something shiny and fast.
77 F model. I pulled the engine for a valve job and rings.
@@joepie221 Great vintage bike. Enjoy.
Interesting ,,,
Great tips. One thing to note, however, is that a vertical cut can lend itself to blade wander. If the piece is going to be machined anyway, go for it, but if a square cut is necessary, a more horizontal cut is better.
Its all about time in most job shops. imagine this times 50 parts.
@@joepie221 Believe me, I get it. But I should've mentioned that I'm a fabricator, not a machinist.
Always great info. I will be making a bar for the top of my bandsaw now. Thanks
be sure to check out the multiple round bar cutting video. It will help.
Great idea , but if it started cutting crooked it would probably break the blade . But at least the coolant runs back to the saw & not the floor . I have never tried that method but will give it a shot . I like the block on the jaw idea , Cheers Joe , Thanks .
Brilliant!
I've never heard of tilting stock even though I already knew that the less contact the faster the cut. I'm rebuilding a saw I'm going to add this feature. Thumbs up.
It works well. Now I need a follow cart with an adjustable shelf so the material doesn't want to lay down between cuts.
@@joepie221 I'm using an old machinist jack at the moment but yeah I should build something proper
Great time saver. Thanks for the video Joe.
Do the more aggressive methods effect blade life? Might it increase blade life due to less time cutting?
Extends blade life as it spends less time in the cut, but most of the time saving comes from the blade gullets not filling up from shavings halfway through the cut and then just dagging in there until the blade exits the material.
Always love the time savers. Thanks Joe
Thank you Joe, pearls of wisdom as always.. i cut angle iron with the 'elbow' pointing upwards for this reason.. ! Have a great week Sir... always watching.. Del.
Hi Del, Thanks for checking in. I'm kicking around the idea of a backrest for my VTX you may really like. Shoot me an e-mail via the contact page on my website Advancedinnovationsllc.com
Phew! -Am all shook up now! Angle of ATTACK ! DANGER!! My Fendo ( Italian ) Saw PUSHES the Var. pitch blade ( of course it Pulls it from TOP ) so I would be doing as you do but the other way around: The Blade wants to enter the stock in the UPHILL Direction. I hadn't given it all much thought before but had tried lifting sock off the bottom when dealing with large awkward items where I wanted a clean cut, but the frame would catch on the workpiece - it happens. As for turningthe Round stock: I have asked around / researched and it seems that Bandsaws are not guaranteed to cut square - Maybe only when new .... so unless I want to cut a Spiral drive flex cplg, I'll just wait a couple of minutes longer. We cut up to 6" 20MnV6 ( EN14A ) with similar blades and just accept the time - tea-break or getting other parts ready. Thanks again for taking time just to make some cuts to show us!
Same principle can be applied to square tubing. Rotate it 45 degrees (V block) and it cuts much faster.
Might be slower to cut square stock at 45... Curious - have to try it.
I always rotate square tube, though I never bother with a V block. Just line up by eye , clamp it and go. I generally use a few degrees more than 45 with the part rotated against the direction the blade is trying to pull it. That way if it does try to rotate it just jams tighter in the vice jaws.
For production work a V block is probably quicker but I don't do much production work.
the V block just stops the material from grabbing and rotating. thats a blade killer.
@@joepie221 That's why I clock it a bit past 45 degrees. It then would have to push the vice jaws apart to rotate.
I have one of the cheap bandsaws. Time spent adjusting it produces good square cuts. I use bimetallic blades and the clunky spring lifter. I use an aquarium pump for coolant .. it's a beauty!!! It cuts about 1 square inch of steel per minute regardless of the metal section. I can speed things up by hanging a brick on the swing arm with no bad effects. I don't stand and watch it but I don't leave it unattended!!! I thought of downfeed control mechanisms but frankly I can't be bothered!!! My shop isn't as organised as yours, but I do "need it yesterday" stuff!!
Regards
Estephan
I have no idea how you think of these things, but they are GREAT suggestions! Thanks, I (retired) will be doing #2 on my saw in my home/garage/shop.
I cut a lot of Wide Thin steel from 8' long strip. I have found that the least amount of teeth I can get away with is fastest. I never thought of your ideas, the second one I do not think would work on real thin. But, I like the second set up idea for thicker stuff. I cut a lot of 5/8" thick x 4" wide x 10 foot bars into 4 1/2" pieces. It would need some support along the bar to safely maintain position in the vice that way. But I will keep this in mind, would speed up my cuts a lot if I can make it work.
Looks like my next shop project is to fabricobble up a stop on my saw vise. Thanks joe. Always a pleasure watching your stuff.
Thanks for sharing
Great tip. I suppose once a tooth gullet fills up, it’s done cutting until it can clear the swarf and go around again.
I think it has more to do with the number of teeth on the material at the time. The more teeth, less pressure per tooth.
RichieRichOverdrive That also sounds reasonable!
Great vlog, the inclined approach works perfect for Titanium, ref improves/increases cutting force.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Joe, I liked that
That was actually useful and interesting info. Who woulda thunk I could learn something about sawing?
Nice Demo Joe
Manageable lengths of say 12 feet i used to handle in a similar situation.
Obviously process two is the best.
Has anyone but me ever wondered why that saw cut pattern is always present when cutting round stock? ruclips.net/video/5fvhbhTxF0c/видео.html Something tells me it has something to do with cutting speed, number of teeth, and diameter of stock, but it is always proportional to the stock size.
Again,thanks for the tip, I have had the cutting Tim issues before. This will help.
And yet another small mod to...😊.....thanks Joe..👍
Worth doing, for sure.
I've been doing this for years. I use bolts in the vise. Make sure you have enough teeth making contact. I enjoy your videos.
More excellent ideas Joe - thank you. :)
Hey Joe,
nice video,thanks for sharing........keep these babies coming.........very interesting ......Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.
I cut a lot of 2 3/8" diameter 6061 round bar on my el-cheapo Harbor Freight saw (so I cut dry). (These become harmonica microphone grill blanks.) I use a pretty aggressive 7TPI blade. 6-8 minutes per depending on how sharp the blade is . Can't wait to try this!
I bet you save some time.
Tooth build up of chips is the main problem
Chip evacuation on a long cut can definitely be an issue, but also think of the pressure. Pressure is the force divided by the area. A wide, parallel cut spreads the force of the down feed over a wider surface which equals less force per tooth. Narrowing the cut area decreases the amount of teeth engaged at any given moment which increases the force applied to each tooth.
@@jimnolimit Correct my friend, the tooth pitch for long cuts should be much bigger. like 4 tpi.