Here’s where I sourced my seeds: Sun Gold: Botanical Interests (Purchased at a local brick and mortar gardening store) Black Cherry: Gaea’s Blessing (ordered via Amazon) Cherokee Purple: Gaea’s Blessing (ordered via Amazon) San Marzano: Seed Kingdom (ordered via Amazon) Rio Grande: Eden Brothers (ordered from supplier) Oroma: Victory Seeds (ordered from supplier)
Neat and tidy garden, love that! I've grown 4 of your mentioned varieties, Sun Gold, Black Cherry in my garden this year and Cherokee Purple, San Marzano (agree with your assessment). Sadly, you don't know about Rinaldo, a sauce & salad tomato with a sweet, wonderfully complex flavor. Marianna's Peace, rivels Brandywine with an exceptional flavor. I hope you will try them at least once.
Thanks for taking the time to put all this information together:) I'm trying to grow tomatoes in the Eastern Coachella Valley and need all the help I can get:)
@@thedroughtproofgarden There an tons of commercial produce farms near me so I know it can be done:) I'm from Sonoma County so the dramatic change in growing seasons messes with me. I will start my tomatoes in October and a 2nd planting in March. Still feels weird:)
Shade cloth will become your best friend. Tomatoes in general seem to do well in hot dry conditions if you take the edge off the sun. 50-60 percent shade cloth works well for me.
Good video! I'm also in the sac area. I'm growing sun gold, gardeners delight, Roma, jubilee , Cherokee purple, Berkeley tie die , red pear , and get stuffed . I'm going to have to try the rio variety next year.
I just moved into a new house this year, so I don't have my garden established yet. There is a volunteer tomato plant in my front yard, however, that I am considering taking a sucker from and planting for fall!
When growing tomatoes, take your climate into account. In hot and dry climates like the Sacramento Valley, it's essential to be cautious with aggressive pruning, especially for cherry tomatoes. Pruning might make the plants more manageable, but it could reduce fruit production. Observe how different pruning methods affect your yield and adjust accordingly.
The very best way to end blossom end rot is to make an olla from home depot unglazed terracotta pots. I make extra deep ones, using 3 six inch pots attached together. I keep it filled with water and use it as a backup water source for those super hot days. The plants extract the water when they need it. I am in Long Beach and I grow san marzano and this eliminated my blossom end rot problem.
I am in Florida and I don't think some of these varieties will work. The purple Cherokee did ok early on. I will be starting another batch soon in my green house. Thank you for your videos my friend. I will subscribe today.
I'm in subtropical Australia and for me the Cherokee purple seems to get late blight whenever it gets humid and rainy. I assume it would be pretty similar there in florida quite often.
Great info! Will try the Rio Grande this year in 8a North Texas. Last year I grew an unknown variety of sauce tomato and while they did somewhat ok, it was my first year trying tomatoes and I didn't realize they quit producing at 90 deg....which for us is unfortunately early in the season.
An added bonus for the Rio Grandes is they love hot days and cool nights. Here in Sacramento we have no humidity or cloud cover, so even following a 100 degree day, we can have a night in the 50s or 60s.
Gladiator did really well for me in south Texas. It's a huge paste type and surviving 100+ temps. Not really producing now, but will see if I get anything when it cools. I wasn't impressed with San Marzanos. Nice video and may try some of these next year.
Every variety I’ve tried over winter has done well as long as I plant it in a sunny spot. What’s frustrating is we never have homegrown lettuce available at the same time as ripe tomatoes. I’m half considering growing some greens under my grow lights this summer so we can have 100% homegrown salads.
Blossom end rot is tricky. It means the plant needs calcium, but more often than not, there’s plenty of calcium in the soil. The plant just can’t get it to to the fruits for one reason or another, typically due to some kind of stress. I’m going to experiment with some high calcium foliar sprays on my second round of tomatoes and see if those are effective.
I live in Phoenix & hv grown a Cherokee Purple for the first time. Soon it will be 100+ days for at least 5-6 months. I’m curious if u have noticed the temperature barrier for fertilization for Cherokee Purple? Also, do u think there any possibility of keeping them alive thru the heat until cooler weather?
I don’t know the exact temperature ceiling for pollination, but mine set fruit throughout the season last year, though production did diminish as the summer dragged on. Here in Sacramento, we don’t quite have the number of 100+ degree days as you, but daytime highs will be in the 90s or better from late May well into October. Shade cloth helps tremendously. My suspicion is (and I don’t have evidence as of yet) humidity is more a hindrance to pollination than high temps. The plant itself will live through the summer until first frost with proper care. Whether or not it will produce fruit that whole time is harder to predict. I’d be very interested to hear how the variety does for you this summer.
These year has been way better for tomatoes down in Socal Co Laredo to last year. Sadly, fruits are done for my early girl and big beefs until it starts cooling down in October
It’s definitely worth a try, especially if you have a place to start them indoors. Just because a variety is heat tolerant doesn’t necessarily mean it’s not also cold hearty. I just don’t really have a way to test the latter.
I'm trying different paste tomatoes every year in zone 5/6 so far Federle, roma vf and Amish paste have been at the top of the list. This year I'm trying opalka and Sheboygan. So far opalka are looking good, have to see how well they handle late blight.
Here’s where I sourced my seeds:
Sun Gold: Botanical Interests (Purchased at a local brick and mortar gardening store)
Black Cherry: Gaea’s Blessing (ordered via Amazon)
Cherokee Purple: Gaea’s Blessing (ordered via Amazon)
San Marzano: Seed Kingdom (ordered via Amazon)
Rio Grande: Eden Brothers (ordered from supplier)
Oroma: Victory Seeds (ordered from supplier)
underrated channel
Great video. I’m in Sacramento too and this was very helpful
Thanks. Glad you found it useful.
Rio Grande is my secret roma pick for a while now, so ez to grow
Neat and tidy garden, love that! I've grown 4 of your mentioned varieties, Sun Gold, Black Cherry in my garden this year and Cherokee Purple, San Marzano (agree with your assessment). Sadly, you don't know about Rinaldo, a sauce & salad tomato with a sweet, wonderfully complex flavor. Marianna's Peace, rivels Brandywine with an exceptional flavor. I hope you will try them at least once.
I appreciate the recommendations. I like to try at least one new variety every year, so I’ll definitely give your recommendations a go next year.
Thanks for taking the time to put all this information together:) I'm trying to grow tomatoes in the Eastern Coachella Valley and need all the help I can get:)
Glad you found it helpful!
@@thedroughtproofgarden There an tons of commercial produce farms near me so I know it can be done:) I'm from Sonoma County so the dramatic change in growing seasons messes with me. I will start my tomatoes in October and a 2nd planting in March. Still feels weird:)
Shade cloth will become your best friend.
Tomatoes in general seem to do well in hot dry conditions if you take the edge off the sun. 50-60 percent shade cloth works well for me.
Good video! I'm also in the sac area. I'm growing sun gold, gardeners delight, Roma, jubilee , Cherokee purple, Berkeley tie die , red pear , and get stuffed . I'm going to have to try the rio variety next year.
I just moved into a new house this year, so I don't have my garden established yet. There is a volunteer tomato plant in my front yard, however, that I am considering taking a sucker from and planting for fall!
When growing tomatoes, take your climate into account. In hot and dry climates like the Sacramento Valley, it's essential to be cautious with aggressive pruning, especially for cherry tomatoes. Pruning might make the plants more manageable, but it could reduce fruit production. Observe how different pruning methods affect your yield and adjust accordingly.
Where I live,we have triple digits every summer,🙄,so I use shade cloth and organic ground cover in my vegetable garden,all summer long 😊.
Just got some shade cloth. I'm 100 plus for months on end. Too late for this year but hoping Tomatoes produce a little longer next year.
My best heat tolerant tomato varieties are Phoenix, Bella Rosa, Red Snapper for big fruits and lots of them on determinate plants.
I’ll have to keep those in mind. I like to try at least one new variety every year.
Have heard a lot about Red Snappers and got seeds to grow next year. Looking forward to them as a beautiful tomato.
The very best way to end blossom end rot is to make an olla from home depot unglazed terracotta pots. I make extra deep ones, using 3 six inch pots attached together. I keep it filled with water and use it as a backup water source for those super hot days. The plants extract the water when they need it. I am in Long Beach and I grow san marzano and this eliminated my blossom end rot problem.
I might give that a try next year.
I am in Florida and I don't think some of these varieties will work. The purple Cherokee did ok early on. I will be starting another batch soon in my green house. Thank you for your videos my friend. I will subscribe today.
I'm in subtropical Australia and for me the Cherokee purple seems to get late blight whenever it gets humid and rainy. I assume it would be pretty similar there in florida quite often.
Great info! Will try the Rio Grande this year in 8a North Texas. Last year I grew an unknown variety of sauce tomato and while they did somewhat ok, it was my first year trying tomatoes and I didn't realize they quit producing at 90 deg....which for us is unfortunately early in the season.
An added bonus for the Rio Grandes is they love hot days and cool nights. Here in Sacramento we have no humidity or cloud cover, so even following a 100 degree day, we can have a night in the 50s or 60s.
Gladiator did really well for me in south Texas. It's a huge paste type and surviving 100+ temps. Not really producing now, but will see if I get anything when it cools. I wasn't impressed with San Marzanos. Nice video and may try some of these next year.
For blossom end rot use Neptunes Harvest Crab and Lobster Shell works great never have a problem when using it
Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll try and add it to the rotation this season.
Have you tried a cold zone variety like an Oregon Spring or a Cloudy Day Hybrid during the winter? Just curious.
Every variety I’ve tried over winter has done well as long as I plant it in a sunny spot.
What’s frustrating is we never have homegrown lettuce available at the same time as ripe tomatoes.
I’m half considering growing some greens under my grow lights this summer so we can have 100% homegrown salads.
Have you tried Tiffen Mennonite?
I had some blossom end rot I sprinkled Epsom salts and watered in seem to take care of it.
another gardener said plants with blossom end rot need calcium. also it's very kind of u to list sources of seeds.
Blossom end rot is tricky. It means the plant needs calcium, but more often than not, there’s plenty of calcium in the soil. The plant just can’t get it to to the fruits for one reason or another, typically due to some kind of stress.
I’m going to experiment with some high calcium foliar sprays on my second round of tomatoes and see if those are effective.
@@thedroughtproofgarden interesting. i've never had the end rot; lucky me.
I live in Phoenix & hv grown a Cherokee Purple for the first time. Soon it will be 100+ days for at least 5-6 months.
I’m curious if u have noticed the temperature barrier for fertilization for Cherokee Purple? Also, do u think there any possibility of keeping them alive thru the heat until cooler weather?
I don’t know the exact temperature ceiling for pollination, but mine set fruit throughout the season last year, though production did diminish as the summer dragged on.
Here in Sacramento, we don’t quite have the number of 100+ degree days as you, but daytime highs will be in the 90s or better from late May well into October. Shade cloth helps tremendously.
My suspicion is (and I don’t have evidence as of yet) humidity is more a hindrance to pollination than high temps.
The plant itself will live through the summer until first frost with proper care. Whether or not it will produce fruit that whole time is harder to predict.
I’d be very interested to hear how the variety does for you this summer.
These year has been way better for tomatoes down in Socal Co Laredo to last year.
Sadly, fruits are done for my early girl and big beefs until it starts cooling down in October
Do you think the Rio Grande would thrive in the northeast (zone 5)? Looking beyond the Roma/San Marzano for sauce tomatoes
It’s definitely worth a try, especially if you have a place to start them indoors. Just because a variety is heat tolerant doesn’t necessarily mean it’s not also cold hearty. I just don’t really have a way to test the latter.
Try Amish paste I hear they are great yeilders and were breed for the Midwest north east.
I'm trying different paste tomatoes every year in zone 5/6 so far Federle, roma vf and Amish paste have been at the top of the list.
This year I'm trying opalka and Sheboygan.
So far opalka are looking good, have to see how well they handle late blight.
If you dont snack on tomatoes you already lost my like and subscribe lol