My 2012 mini Cooper s was having issues with the hatch door randomly unlocking. I had just bought a new key fob and thought that may be a contributing factor. But after seeing this video I removed the assembly with the switch that unlocks the hatch door. After careful inspection I saw a single strand of copper with located under the switch and thought that may be shorting out the pins that activate the unlocking of the hatch door. I used to do technician work so I cleaned the switch re-soldered the pins on the switch. Placed the assembly back and I no longer have the issue of the hatch door unlocking randomly. I saved myself about $300 thanks to RUclips and the good people who share their experiences. I love RUclips and thanks to all
Hi thanks hackaweek for not removing this video. Nearly 4 years later from publishing, I used this tutorial to repair my r56 mini one boot handle after the rubber exterior seal deteriorated and the original switch stopped working. Real fix it project saving money too.
Thanks! Great video. Car is 2008 mini S R56. I found a 12mm plastic panel mount momentary switch in junk box, I T attached to the two outside wires and installed it in parallel with dead switch. It tucks up in the recess. Gorilla taped over most of the opening to replace deteriorated rubber. It works. Not as original as your fix but works/looks ok. The center wire is 12V power for license plate lights.
Hi, thanks for posting this video - I have this problem, had diagnosed that a new switch was needed but not got around to fixing it. Good to see how you did it. Think I will go with Greg Woods' tip below and order a new switch and button from RS. Hopefully will save a bit of cash, keep the old part out of landfill and feel pleased with myself for a short while. Will let you know how I get on!
Ggggrrrreeeaaaaatttt.. absolutely amazing. I love the way he repaired it without replacing the whole thing with new one like many so called RUclipsrs call "repair"..
You can repair switch without cutting the rubber if you prise off the trim on the top you can get to a piece of plastic which holds the pcb and you can repair from there.
Thanks for this video. All I needed to do was replace the rubber cover. I cut out a piece of the thin craft foam, sprayed it with a fabric clear from SEM products (only because I had it already) then glued it in place. Might last the for the life of the car. If not I'll do it again.
Just done this repair on my daughters 2011 Mini. In the UK I got my switch (in 2 parts) from RS Components. Part No: 4846620 & 7931623, £2.05 including delivery! I found that if I carefully cut around 3 sides of the rubber cover with a very sharp Stanley knife I could hinge it back enough to solder in the new switch. I then re-fixed the cover in place with some clear silicon sealant. Job done, Thank.
Hi HAW, Dino, I hope you had a great vacation, really good to see you back. Looking forward to what you have coming up. Nice hack on the switch. I like the newly formatted HAW, loved the old one, Thank you. Take care, be good, C.
Good video. My button looked fine, just the rubber button cover was corroded and looked like it had been in a blender. Bought a bicycle inner tube for £3, cut it out to shape and stuck it on. looks factory.
at minute 4:10, I need to know if there is a part number for that rubber diaphragm. My switch works fine but the rubber diaphragm broke off. Does you or anyone on this feed know if this part alone can be purchased?
This was great but when I went to do mine ( I have had it repaired professionally two times @$400 each time) the rubber cover was still there and needed to take it apart. I found this very difficult. I removed the silver capping but was unable to remove the black casing to get comfortable enough to work on the switch section. Any suggestions? Or is it just easier to pay for a new hatch handle?
The problem on mine was that the switch has a plastic keycap clipped onto it. The clip had broken and so the cap had moved meaning the switch wasn't being pressed. I found both the keycaps and the exact same switches for sale from RS Components. Part number 484-6620 and 793-1623. Also, no need to remove the rubber cover, just cut three edges, fold the rubber back, make the repair, then glue with cyanoacrylate. Some RTV black silicone (instant gasket) does a great job of sealing it as well.
Hi Greg, thanks for posting your tip and especially for the RS part numbers. My cap and switch have both disintegrated so I think I'll order them and see how I get on. Did you replace the entire switch or just the cap?
adamski700 I ordered the switches and caps but just replaced the cap. If I'd had to solder a new switch I may have cut the rubber cover completely off, as in the video to make it easier.
Thanks very much Greg (yes I am in the UK) but I have just ordered both from RS, cost £2.04 inc postage (before I saw your offer). Mine needs a new switch so will let you know how I get on!
Do you have a solution for a 2009 Mini Cooper S convertible with a stuck trunk lid? There are two latches for the convertible tailgate. For some unknown reason one latch is unlocked and one is locked! The button on both the key fob and on the tailgate seem to work fine. I've crawled into the trunk and I can see one is locked and one is locked (the latch is engaged). Help please!!!
When you unplug it, do we need to have the battery turned off or anything ? (I have zero knowledge with cars, but I bought a oem grip and want to replace the old one and this seems simple enough for me to do)
Recently bought a 2009 Mini and just ran into this problem. The only difference is the key fob doesn't open the hatch. I currently have no way to open it. The button latch feels like it is broken but since the key fob doesn't unlock it either, does this mean there's a greater issue issue involving more than just the button??
Mine will not work with fob or physically. Is there a fuse and where is the fuse location 2003 hatchback. Switch seems to click. I think there is no current
For me I quite enjoy trying to fix the fault. Also feel it is good to try and keep stuff out of landfill when the problem is just one tiny component costing a couple of pounds to replace. But I'm sure BMW would prefer everyone to follow your advice!
This fails on BMWs of the same era as well, it’ll use the same thing from the same parts bin. It’s a tiny switch that is only suitable for CD player interfaces. You’re applying pressure when you’re using it opening the boot.
just picked up a 2010 cooper s myself and am working on very similar fixes and upgrades so thanks for the videos. I had a question that you might be the guy to ask. My new mini is automatically unlocking the hatch at random only when the car is unlocked. I heard in forums that the rear hatch trim where the button is located can accumulate water and condensation causing the button to malfunction and unlock on it's own but nobody offers solutions. I would like to avoid the $120 for a new trim piece plus the cost to paint it to match. Any ideas on how you might go about fixing it while I still have a working switch that is just in need of a little water protection?
Hola saludos, ya realicé esos pasos pero sigue sin funcionar mi cajuela, tampoco prenden las luces para la matricula. Al parecer los cables no tienen ningún tipo de señal. Ayudaaa
Great job I like it I will do it next on my girlfriend's R57 jcw. On the our one the rubber is ok. I will take out the electronic bar Thanks.. from Italy
Great video love it saving all us money going to school with you . Question I had a painters tarp in the back of my countryman and it was a struggle to open the rear hatch because the tarp got stuck in the latch. Well the light will not turn off now. Is the contact damaged I took the bulb out in the back to not drain the battery Do you have a solution to this it has to be the contact on the latch! Your thoughts thank you so much I did subscribe to your channel great job
Hi dear mate Nice vid! I hope you can safe my life, would be awesome.. I just got a whole new rear because of an accident Now my blend which you took of by the 4 torx screws now stands like 1 cm over at its lower end on left and right Maybe you got any idea? Love ya if you can maybe try to help me Nice week and bb
Can someone please enlighten me how to fix the window lifting mechanism in the Mini R56? On both sides - do not lower the 1cm when you open the door and hitting a place in roof often resorted 8 cm down :( :( :(
I have the same problem - but found this link when someone simply removes and cleans the microswitch rather than replace the whole unit. www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178411-hatch-release-button-fix.html
So i followed the above link, dismantled the microswitch and noted that the triangular metal clip that is held back by the spring was snapped. The part number is in very small writing but it's a Burgess Microswitch model V4NC range. The actual model is V4NC4S (prewired vs pins which you have to solder. I'm going to buy one (whether pinned or not) but use it to replace the top half so I don't have to fiddle around resoldering cables and see if I can get it to work. Note that some come with a metal lever which attaches to the pins in either corner of the top piece - this isn't required on the Mini as the handle pushes against the little button directly so no need for a separate lever. Here's the spec sheet for the V4NC range if you're interested: www.distrelec.biz/Web/Downloads/31/01/03583101.pdf And this is the one I'm going to buy off ebay (£10 incl P&P) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MICROSWITCH-V4-PLUNGER-CONTACT-CONFIGURATION-SPST-CONTACT-C-FOR-SAIA-BURGESS/274433146034?hash=item3fe57d7cb2:g:HQsAAOSwoXFfFUm7
My 2012 mini Cooper s was having issues with the hatch door randomly unlocking. I had just bought a new key fob and thought that may be a contributing factor. But after seeing this video I removed the assembly with the switch that unlocks the hatch door. After careful inspection I saw a single strand of copper with located under the switch and thought that may be shorting out the pins that activate the unlocking of the hatch door. I used to do technician work so I cleaned the switch re-soldered the pins on the switch. Placed the assembly back and I no longer have the issue of the hatch door unlocking randomly. I saved myself about $300 thanks to RUclips and the good people who share their experiences. I love RUclips and thanks to all
Nice!
Hi thanks hackaweek for not removing this video. Nearly 4 years later from publishing, I used this tutorial to repair my r56 mini one boot handle after the rubber exterior seal deteriorated and the original switch stopped working. Real fix it project saving money too.
Wow very good job thakns we always learned have great day
Thanks! Great video. Car is 2008 mini S R56. I found a 12mm plastic panel mount momentary switch in junk box, I T attached to the two outside wires and installed it in parallel with dead switch. It tucks up in the recess. Gorilla taped over most of the opening to replace deteriorated rubber. It works. Not as original as your fix but works/looks ok. The center wire is 12V power for license plate lights.
Hi, thanks for posting this video - I have this problem, had diagnosed that a new switch was needed but not got around to fixing it. Good to see how you did it. Think I will go with Greg Woods' tip below and order a new switch and button from RS. Hopefully will save a bit of cash, keep the old part out of landfill and feel pleased with myself for a short while. Will let you know how I get on!
Woohoo! I absolutely love it. Real fix-it project. Did it exactly like shown and works great. My wife's not going to like it but I do.
Good job on the repair. Everything is electronic on these cars. I'd rather have a lock cylinder and a key that lasts for 20 years.
Ggggrrrreeeaaaaatttt.. absolutely amazing. I love the way he repaired it without replacing the whole thing with new one like many so called RUclipsrs call "repair"..
Hi, thanks for the video. I'm preparing to do the same, can you please explain how to check switch correct orientation? thanks
You can repair switch without cutting the rubber if you prise off the trim on the top you can get to a piece of plastic which holds the pcb and you can repair from there.
I did this, tested OK put on car then the rubber broke lol. So now need to take it off and replace the rubber doh
Thanks for this video. All I needed to do was replace the rubber cover. I cut out a piece of the thin craft foam, sprayed it with a fabric clear from SEM products (only because I had it already) then glued it in place. Might last the for the life of the car. If not I'll do it again.
Scott Wilson how has it held up? Another guy used bicycle repair rubber. That seems like it would be closer to the original material.
Glad to see you back in the preverbal saddle. Excellent fix/upgrade. Am looking forward to more projects! Thankz
Just done this repair on my daughters 2011 Mini. In the UK I got my switch (in 2 parts) from RS Components. Part No: 4846620 & 7931623, £2.05 including delivery! I found that if I carefully cut around 3 sides of the rubber cover with a very sharp Stanley knife I could hinge it back enough to solder in the new switch. I then re-fixed the cover in place with some clear silicon sealant. Job done, Thank.
Thanks, was deciding whether to cut or just fork out for a new one
Glad it helped
Hey buddy, still got a spare one by any chance? It's discontinued apparently. Happy to pay you for postage (I'm in the UK)
@@ZeFran That is unfortunate and I don't have a spare, :-(
No problem, thanks for replying :)
Good with the switch and the repair, and the black looks a lot better there as well.
Hi HAW, Dino, I hope you had a great vacation, really good to see you back. Looking forward to what you have coming up. Nice hack on the switch. I like the newly formatted HAW, loved the old one, Thank you. Take care, be good, C.
Good video. My button looked fine, just the rubber button cover was corroded and looked like it had been in a blender. Bought a bicycle inner tube for £3, cut it out to shape and stuck it on. looks factory.
Taylor nice idea with the inner tube! Will defiantly be doing this on my mini!
This is my problem also did you use the 3M gasket glue that he used?
at minute 4:10, I need to know if there is a part number for that rubber diaphragm. My switch works fine but the rubber diaphragm broke off. Does you or anyone on this feed know if this part alone can be purchased?
I covered mine with a strip of leather. Part is available as a whole assembly only. ):
Great video, but where to find the switch. If you have any link on ebay please post it. Many Thanks
how do you check the way current flow in the salvaged switch?
I second that
It's a switch one side shorts to the other, check with a multimeter if your not sure the switch is correct.
This was great but when I went to do mine ( I have had it repaired professionally two times @$400 each time) the rubber cover was still there and needed to take it apart. I found this very difficult. I removed the silver capping but was unable to remove the black casing to get comfortable enough to work on the switch section. Any suggestions? Or is it just easier to pay for a new hatch handle?
The problem on mine was that the switch has a plastic keycap clipped onto it. The clip had broken and so the cap had moved meaning the switch wasn't being pressed. I found both the keycaps and the exact same switches for sale from RS Components. Part number 484-6620 and 793-1623.
Also, no need to remove the rubber cover, just cut three edges, fold the rubber back, make the repair, then glue with cyanoacrylate. Some RTV black silicone (instant gasket) does a great job of sealing it as well.
Hi Greg, thanks for posting your tip and especially for the RS part numbers. My cap and switch have both disintegrated so I think I'll order them and see how I get on. Did you replace the entire switch or just the cap?
adamski700 I ordered the switches and caps but just replaced the cap. If I'd had to solder a new switch I may have cut the rubber cover completely off, as in the video to make it easier.
OK thanks Greg.
adamski700 if you are UK I can post a switch and cap. i have spares. no charge.
Thanks very much Greg (yes I am in the UK) but I have just ordered both from RS, cost £2.04 inc postage (before I saw your offer). Mine needs a new switch so will let you know how I get on!
Do you have a solution for a 2009 Mini Cooper S convertible with a stuck trunk lid?
There are two latches for the convertible tailgate. For some unknown reason one latch is unlocked and one is locked! The button on both the key fob and on the tailgate seem to work fine. I've crawled into the trunk and I can see one is locked and one is locked (the latch is engaged). Help please!!!
When you unplug it, do we need to have the battery turned off or anything ? (I have zero knowledge with cars, but I bought a oem grip and want to replace the old one and this seems simple enough for me to do)
Recently bought a 2009 Mini and just ran into this problem. The only difference is the key fob doesn't open the hatch. I currently have no way to open it. The button latch feels like it is broken but since the key fob doesn't unlock it either, does this mean there's a greater issue issue involving more than just the button??
Mine will not work with fob or physically. Is there a fuse and where is the fuse location 2003 hatchback. Switch seems to click. I think there is no current
Brilliant informative vlog. Thanks again for sharing buddy!
I've replaced loads of these there only £40.00 from dealers and it comes with new chrome and lights would you really bother trying to fix?
For me I quite enjoy trying to fix the fault. Also feel it is good to try and keep stuff out of landfill when the problem is just one tiny component costing a couple of pounds to replace. But I'm sure BMW would prefer everyone to follow your advice!
£40 as opposed to a few pence is a big difference.
J lloyd They start at $100 now
The manufacturer did this weakpoint on purpose so you'll have to throw that mini away and buy a new one.
/s ?
Lol
This fails on BMWs of the same era as well, it’ll use the same thing from the same parts bin. It’s a tiny switch that is only suitable for CD player interfaces. You’re applying pressure when you’re using it opening the boot.
What if it doesn’t work with the key too?
These boots open on there own wats going on ?
My clubman does the same thing
just picked up a 2010 cooper s myself and am working on very similar fixes and upgrades so thanks for the videos. I had a question that you might be the guy to ask. My new mini is automatically unlocking the hatch at random only when the car is unlocked. I heard in forums that the rear hatch trim where the button is located can accumulate water and condensation causing the button to malfunction and unlock on it's own but nobody offers solutions. I would like to avoid the $120 for a new trim piece plus the cost to paint it to match. Any ideas on how you might go about fixing it while I still have a working switch that is just in need of a little water protection?
Gerc422 I have the same problem did you ever get it fixed?
Please do a video about the plasti-dip. been wanting to paint my dirt bike with it
Coming soon!
So why was the strip silver at the start and black at the end?
He mentioned that. He Plasti-dipped the entire strip.
Why so modern cars have electronic button release whats wrong with the leaver and pull cable.
Dude you are a real MASTER
Hola saludos, ya realicé esos pasos pero sigue sin funcionar mi cajuela, tampoco prenden las luces para la matricula. Al parecer los cables no tienen ningún tipo de señal. Ayudaaa
Hi I have a car Mini Cooper problem like you I will be do it Thank you saw me the trick to do it
Great job I like it
I will do it next on my girlfriend's R57 jcw. On the our one the rubber is ok. I will take out the electronic bar
Thanks.. from Italy
Great video love it saving all us money going to school with you .
Question I had a painters tarp in the back of my countryman and it was a struggle to open the rear hatch because the tarp got stuck in the latch.
Well the light will not turn off now. Is the contact damaged I took the bulb out in the back to not drain the battery
Do you have a solution to this it has to be the contact on the latch!
Your thoughts thank you so much I did subscribe to your channel great job
+HackaweekTV can you please make a circuit that I can run a led clock based on a TMS3450NL on 12VDC that is very simple?
the 2009 does not have a manuel release under the back seat.
are there another location for the release cable
Wow very good job bro thanks
Thanks to you for watching!
Hi dear mate
Nice vid!
I hope you can safe my life, would be awesome..
I just got a whole new rear because of an accident
Now my blend which you took of by the 4 torx screws now stands like 1 cm over at its lower end on left and right
Maybe you got any idea?
Love ya if you can maybe try to help me
Nice week and bb
Can someone please enlighten me how to fix the window lifting mechanism in the Mini R56?
On both sides - do not lower the 1cm when you open the door and hitting a place in roof often resorted 8 cm down :( :( :(
www.minicarparts.net/TechTips/MC-MCS_WindowsDontDrop.cfm
Thank u so much, i really need this 👍🔧
Very nice you made me save a lot of money!!!!
I repaired. It is easy. Thanks for video.
Nice fix/hack, once more. Btw, how's that Squonkbox doing these days?
Awesome! I have to do the same fix on our Kia Rondo. :)
Thanks alot ❤❤❤
Dean where ya at? We want robots :) or a even a vintage electronics restore repurposed hack.
Thanks man! I like the plasti dip too
needed this, thanks!
Really enjoyed your video!! Thank you so much ☺️
Awesome Job
You look a little like Tom Petty, sir. Anyone ever mention that? ☺️
Ha! No, that's a first. :)
Thank you
Nice repair, but why pig skin? Why not a pice of inner tube? You can't se it.
I had the red cow hide just laying around, and it's easier to glue up to plastic than rubber is. The only time you see this is when the trunk is open.
love it!!
thanks for the tip
I have the same problem - but found this link when someone simply removes and cleans the microswitch rather than replace the whole unit. www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178411-hatch-release-button-fix.html
So i followed the above link, dismantled the microswitch and noted that the triangular metal clip that is held back by the spring was snapped. The part number is in very small writing but it's a Burgess Microswitch model V4NC range. The actual model is V4NC4S (prewired vs pins which you have to solder. I'm going to buy one (whether pinned or not) but use it to replace the top half so I don't have to fiddle around resoldering cables and see if I can get it to work. Note that some come with a metal lever which attaches to the pins in either corner of the top piece - this isn't required on the Mini as the handle pushes against the little button directly so no need for a separate lever.
Here's the spec sheet for the V4NC range if you're interested: www.distrelec.biz/Web/Downloads/31/01/03583101.pdf
And this is the one I'm going to buy off ebay (£10 incl P&P) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MICROSWITCH-V4-PLUNGER-CONTACT-CONFIGURATION-SPST-CONTACT-C-FOR-SAIA-BURGESS/274433146034?hash=item3fe57d7cb2:g:HQsAAOSwoXFfFUm7
That's for the gen 1 which has a different switch than the R56
@@Lex-pq9bl sorry, should have mentioned mine is an r52 convertible
Very useful
✌🏼️
R56 minis are truly garbage, BMW should be ashamed in marketing their products as some sort of high quality product.
how do you check the way current flow in the salvaged switch?
Eric Lee use the DC continuity tester on a digital multimeter.
Dude you are a MASTER.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!