Can you print a COPPER INFUSED radiator if so WILL IT WORK?
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
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In the past we tried to print a custom water cooled PC radiator and against what we all thought it worked. It didnt work great but it did work, after that video went live many asked, "what if we added something to the resin to make it more thermally conductive". Those comments got me thinking, yes what would happen and whats more thermally conductive than copper that's readably available. So today thats what we are going to try, let see if a copper infused radiator is possible and if we can print it will it do better then just normal plastic.
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Add some fins to the model to increase surface area
Or grab let's say _real_ radiator, test it, then cut off all the fins and let's see how it performs..
there's a company that sells ceramic resin, that might work better
how about Raspberry Pi 4 / Nvidia Jetson Nano full plastic AIO? Like it do a lot less heat that x86 CPU and you can Overclock it. if you able to add only motor or aquarium pump to a final print it would be a huge success.
all you need to do is to ADD DEPTH to that radiator, water tubes should be flat and WIDE.
like 5-10cm wide.
thats literally it.
and fins are useless with resin.
try paint that radiator with copper/metallic color :D maybe inside too :D
A weight comparison between the radiators would have been nice to see how much powder actually made it into the prints.
Yeah but the 3rd one is glued now so it wouldn't be accurate
@@matejkohout1289 It's to get an Idea of it, not to write an scientific paper. I'm sure the 1g of glue wouldn't throw the numbers that far of. Also the glue is probably not that different in weight from the cured resin and we know it has no copper in it and are only interested in how much metal made it into the print.
It's usually 10-25% with filled filaments.
@@lio1234234 yeah, but this isn't an off the shelf filled resin
@@lio1234234 idk I'm fairly sure my wood PLA is 30 percent?
That is a very interesting idea!
Tomato Man is interested
I had no idea that resin printers could just infuse powders like copper... and sugar. Until today!
Sugar vs Copper! Major Hardware print Radiator with Sugar and Integza print Rocket Engine with copper. lol.
Came here straight after watching solid 3d printed fuels.
@@matthewnutt3280 Thomas Sanladerer noticed that mixing graphite in resin makes for a very pretty color (and did not make the print conductive). And now that I visited that video I noticed Integza was there as well :)
So, here is a little bit of composite physics for you.
You are looking for a percolation threshold among the filler material to use copper to transport the heat out without being impeded by the insulating nature of plastic. With a powder this is quite a high value, but increase the aspect ratio and it drops significantly. So if you were to use a filler like carbon fibers, graphene, metal nanowires (you can get silver nanowires pretty easily, worse case I can show you how to make them in a pressure cooker) and disperse it well then the composite you end up with will transport heat far better than just dumping in copper powder.
Another aspect is that you used a spoon do disperse the powder. You may get a far better result using a higher energy dispersing method, say a blender, than just relying on the tiny amount of shear you make with a spoon to break up the copper powder into individual particles.
there is a quite useful thermal epoxy video by tech ingredients, i think it would apply to printing as well.he was using an overpowered ultrasonic cleaner to mix the resin.
I was thinking the same thing about the blender or putting it in something with a lid and shaking it
Do you really expect that even considers what you're saying? He didn't even put FINS on the water channels to dissipate heat properly!
I wonder if you can shove an agitator/mixer into the resin container to keep the particles in suspension as it prints.
@@2993LP maybe he could rig up a stir bar, I am unsure of the geometry of that tank though.
Best bet maybe be a peristaltic pump circulating the resin. Set up right it wouldn't introduce bubbles and they handle viscous fluids well.
Legit impressed:
A) that it printed
B) it didn't max at 99
C) you didn't report that your printer exploded
D) same
Since resin printers print by shining UV light on a pool of liquid, there is no concern about filament jamming or the nozzle getting destroyed, so you can get creative with the resin without any fear of destroying the printer, worst case it will just not solidify or it'll solidify into a blob.
@@Jdbye I was worried it would ruin the print bed.
I think we are on the verge of Radiator Showdown series :D
For ... props ... I guess? It'd be fun ... but an actual metal radiator will always win, hands down. So...
yeah... But it would still be cool.
@@Oblithian i see what you did there...
At that point he'll have to build a small pla factory in the basement.
@@justsomeperson5110 I think any radiator showdown would have to be done with the same material for all radiators, just varying the design.
This might be a stretch but you could use an old pump to cycle the copper resin and you might end up with a better print. I'd like to see a new series with the best 3D printed radiators with an inevitable convergence of both fan and radiator combo showdown
I was thinking the same thing about cycling the copper with a pump. But then I was thinking about the leaks from using lots of copper. So while it might work, it could just end up making prints more leaky? Also not sure how the turbulence is going to affect the prints ... but probably not going to go well. Still, it might not hurt to try? At least until the pump dies. LOL I'm wondering what mechanical means might work better than a regular pump. Water wheel? Screw pump?
There would probably be too many air bubbles and ruin the prints
@@minnow11 a current generated at the bottom of the reservoir shouldn't generate any bubbles. The idea is to find the balance where the resin and copper slurry doesn't get time to stratify but doesn't generate enough turbulence to cause bubbles or compromise the print.
What about a magnetic stir bar and putting the printer on the stir plate. I have no idea how any of this stuff works, but NileRed uses them a lot.
Okay how about this. Agitate on a cycle. It would take some programming and modding. Have a stir bar or pump run every few layers and have the printer wait during the pump cycle. Hopefully that reduced the impact of turbulence.
The fact that this guy tries these crazy experiments with pc components that I've always wanted to see tech/science/engineering channels do is the reason why this is my favourite RUclips channel...
( 3:00 ) When the music started coming in I thought you were going on a Journey Across Japan. XD
That series has forever associated that track with itself in my mind.
Thank you so much. It was driving me nuts. I immediately thought it was an 80s anime.
you should try aluminium powder; yes its worst conductivity than copper but weighs half as much which mean can be mix better with resin
Or graphite powder. Much, much lighter. And can be had in incredibly fine powder for better mixing.
Aluminum might cause issues due to its albedo reflecting the UV cure light, and thus causing some very strange curing issues. The ultrafine carbon powder, though, might do the trick, as long as the layer thickness is set as fine as the printer can handle - otherwise you run the risk of layers that aren't fully cured.
@@ajsaracina8380 that a good idea, but Idk if its worth it to sacrifice even more conductivity for weight
@@lr0dy I didn't take that into my consideration, ty for pointing that out
@@MrEHD-fj1bz A good compromise might be 500 mesh Copper Oxide (CuO) powder, as it has the same thermal mass and as good or better thermal conductivity as copper, but is black. It also has significantly higher thermal emissivity than metallic copper.
Most copper powder I've found is 325-350 mesh, which has an average particle size of somewhere around 50% larger than 500 - which means that it would more easily stay in suspension. It seems like it could be a real winner.
3:17 i can't dissociate that music from "cycle across japan"....
Custom gear... great sponsorships... the powers that be are finally recognizing that you put out quality content!
That ergo chair is super tempting , looks really nice and isnt badly priced either.
Thank you so much for your feedback! I am glad to know that you enjoy it :D
Hey they sell a metal 3d printer filament that is compatible with standard form printers now. My understanding is it's a metal filament that can print through a any fdm printer, Then you send it to the company and they sinter the part so it's solid and pure metal. You should try making radiator like that!
Downside is they shrink something crazy like 15 or 20% when you sinter them, so it's quite hard to dimension correctly, even if you try to compensate... But I suppose you could tap & thread the intake/outake after sintering, it'd just take some more work.
Probably be better just to buy him one of the machines specifically designed for it.
there are aluminium 3d printers, you should really squeze your patronite for it tho :D
one day, current budget does not allow.
@@MajorHardware I too hope that day will come!
did you see der8auers metal printed laptop liquid cooler?
@@MajorHardware start a go fund me poeple will be happy to help
@@MajorHardware Lincoln Welders makes one too, featuring a welder for the print head
over the months you've really made me want to invest in a 3d printer and I finally went ahead and did it. I bought an ender 5 pro. I feel like now more than ever, Ive looked around and had limitless ideas of how to improve things by 3d printing something
I really appreciated the time lapse cad. It is fast enough for the casual viewer to watch magic happen, but complete and slow enough for an experienced cad user to follow your design process. Thanks!
Have you thought about getting a thermal camera like a Flir that attaches to your phone? Could be a cool way to see thermal differences between the radiators.
I would really like to see a version of your first cooling tower with copper powder.
Oh yeah and +1 to the idea of someone mentioning radiator showdown :D
I wonder if you could figure out how to work a stir bar into the basin... next project... design a submergible USB stir bar that would work in the tank...
Or maybe do the print in stages... design a frame and then slot some copper slats into it, and then print the frame closed.
BUY A COPPER SHEET. like 5x5 inches surface area and attach a resin printed reservior. kinda like a box but two sides of it u will attach the copper plat. n see how well that works.it doesn't have to be pretty. just needs to work
Engineering wise this is a far superior idea. Good call.
It's a shame we can't use the copper plate as the print bed and run walls up and down, then cap the tops off
Any way to increase that surface area helps.
How about I just use a series of copper pipes and a New Style (diy perk's) bellows?
@@lucyinchat that bellows design with brushless pumps running it is a huge waste of energy. With that much pumping capacity you could run a static air mixer off the circulating flow instead of any radiator at all.
this sounds like a bad idea, I can't wait!
3:15 for the montage with 100% perfect montage music
I admit I replayed that part a couple of times for the music..
Same music Abroad in Japan uses
It was good
@@nitram1666 glad someone else noticed, I was like "wait are we journeying across Japan again?"
@@GriffVicious I was looking for this exact comment!
radiator showdown would be cool
Try increasing the surface area with fins. That could increase the performance
Thinking the same thing. Needs fins
why fins and not swedes?
That a good idea and very likely occurred to him but that's not what this video is about. It's not about "how well does this perform", it's "does this perform any better than plain plastic".
Plastic isn't conductive enough for fins to work. They'd just be a detriment to air flow with no benefit.
that music @3:22 had me thinking this was an Abroad in Japan crossover episode
also, as a previous owner of an ErgoChair, I gotta say, my used Aeron is better :P 'Grats on the sponsor tho!
I’m seeing so many people vouching for used herman miller aerons everytime another chair is mentioned, I’m starting to think this is some kind of ad campaign for them.
Hi Jake, thanks for your feedback! I do really appreciate it. May I ask the reason why you prefer the other chair rather than our Ergo Chair 2?
dat music.... 80s are back! :D
Try adding graphite to a printed radiator.
Copper, graphite, and diamond dust. See Tech Ingredients video ruclips.net/video/6KjlyXKeo8c/видео.html
These are thermal resistant......
@@wastanley734 Graphite is thermally conductive. Not as good as copper, but if more can be suspended in the resin it might work better.
How did you even make this work? This is amazing
That’s actually really impressive considering your rad doesn’t even have heat fins on it
fins just make matters worse when using a poor conductor to begin with
@@GerrkPB lol thats the dumbest thing ive ever heard
@@cursetheserpent fins made of printed plastic would suck, blocking airflow more than the surface area they expose. You presumably meant adding metal fins? In either case, no need to be a dick.
@@cursetheserpent it's not dumb if it's true. plastic heatspreaders would be counter productive since plastic is more of a thermal insulator, not a conductor.
A chair that doesn't look like an uncomfortable "race chair" good on you my dude.
For having bought one of those racing chairs, I can say that they are perfectible. However, they aren't uncomfortable by any means.
I've got this exact chair. It's pretty good but could use more padding. Bought my boys secret lab chairs, also very good, but a bit more "gamer".
Sadly, it looks like they just buy existing chairs from a Chinese company and rebrand them. The Kickstarter for their first chair even got suspended because of it.
It's just a pimped out version of the superior and cheaper Ikea office chair.
What about ceramic printed radiator? Love the 80's hype music.
Ceramic is an insulator, so that seems like a terrible idea.
@@aethertech just wondering if it would be worse then plastic. Bless you.
@asdrubale bisanzio then you print it and prove it .
Apparently the ceramic has a tendency to shrink when you bake it,, and it's porous. (source Integza youtube channel)
I guess you could not bake it, but that would leave the resin, which is a bit pointless I think. But then again, there might be a way to glaze it, like china porcelain.
@asdrubale bisanzio wow everyone says it can't be done . I don't see anyone trying to.
I adore how you keep experimenting and trying things out. I feel like a kid again watching these experiments. Much love
Pack it in popcorn salt and put it in a kiln to sinter the copper together and burn away the resin. The salt method is used on FDM prints to achieve higher strength between layers. In this case, it would be to form an actual solid copper pipe. Integza is also using ceramic impregnated resins in a similar way to create rocket engines. You should check him out if you haven't already.
I wish you had published this vid on Monday. I literally just bought a new chair and the one thing I need more than anything else is the high weight limit. I end up breaking every chair I've owned and start having to sit weird (like I am now because my chair skews down and to the right) until I can't take the back pain anymore.
For copper to conduct heat, you need copper in contact with copper. The first one didn't surprise me one bit because you can clearly see the specks of copper in the print. I'd also be interested to see if powdered dendritic copper would give a better result than the last one. Also, for the sake of argument and because it'd be really cool, Shapeways can print in solid metal, including copper and bronze.
Henlo friend, may I ask how tall are you? I am pretty sure the Ergo Chair can assist you in this case ;)
Radiator series! Best fan and Radiator set up series! I'd watch that.
I was NOT expecting that to work! Very cool. Screwing around with 3D printed components like that is good content, at least to me.
2 ideas:
1. Use a magnetic chemical mixer with your sls slurry to keep the copper suspended during the print.
2. See if the copper density is high enough to print something electrically conductive.
Seeing the rusty copper color of the third radiator gave me a funky idea. Casadiator - steampunk-themed case made of tubes that functions as a radiator. Color definitely fits, airflow can be supplied by similarly modified printed "rusty" fans.
Im impressed with your ability to keep churning out such wacky yet entertaining content
Radiator showdown! I wanna see some insane 3d radiator designs.
Man it's really cool what you could accomplish in the last 2 years. Gotta say I got a bit bored of the Fan stuff when you came to " the second season", but 2 things you showed me what's possible with 3d printers by now already completely blew my mind: 1st: it's possible to Print water blocks as long as you can provide some kind of copper cold plate and you can possibly print some kind of radiator if you put enough effort into design and mix in copper dust in the resin. I would have never thought of either, and both is absolutely brilliant. Now i want a 3d printer 😂
3:18 would love some Solid Works tutorial vids
Holy shi... This is amazing. I am loving this. So many possibilities. So much room for improvement. Such an awesome video!
I watch your tiktoks, loving the V10 inpresa project man!
@@ellie3859 Eyyy thank you so much! Always nice to be recognized. Making big progress right now.
@@802Garage it's no problem ☺️ keep up the awesome content man,
Copper powder fans, copper powder tubes, radiators, reservoirs, liquid itself, the tiny pump dingus, all of that good stuff, take a good snort of the powder in the intro too for max cooling performance
The Ultimate Plumbum-PC : 3D Print all inlet fans with copper in the resin - so that the fans already start cooling the air with its surface in addition to the cooling power it does anyway with air and movement of its blade. Use a cooper infused radiator like you did - the water tank out of any other metal - (maybe get your hands on a custom made copper tank to complete the look). Good luck!
The quality of your videos becomes better and better... Really exciting to see how you progress. Keep up the good work, love your channel! :)
You should try printing the radiator tubes with the thinnest possible walls and then coating them in something highly thermally conductive with air, like copper tape for example. An ideal radiator exchanges all the heat from the fluid into the medium around it (the air), so reducing the amount of thermal impedence between the air and the fluid will give the best results. Also, adding metal fins to your radiator will help a lot, as you need to transfer the heat out of the radiator material and into the air as fast as possible.
Based on seeing many other people mix stuff in, once your over 10% it makes print begin to fail etc... so the best way to do this is via electroplating the plastic... as that will provide a much better thermal dissipation ability...
You can 3d print and anneal ceramic now! You print it on your home printer, then stick it in a ceramic oven. :). Burns the tiny bit of plastic out, leaves the ceramic. Would *love* to see an episode on it, since ceramic is a heatsink material still used for some purposes.
From what I saw, you go about mixing the powder in the liquid the wrong way. You start with the powder, then you add a bit of resin, mix well, then a bit more, mix well, and so on, until you added al the resin, so the powder gets integrated into the mixture properly. It's similar to how flour and water need to get mixed, to create pancake/crepe batter. That's why you have holes in the high-copper-content radiator.
The natural evolution of water cooled air cooler... come a long way 👍🏻
Please try to make an FDM version and see if it will work. I know that it will be much harder due to layer inconsistency but I think that it still might be doable, especially if you add a sealant on top.
I am not surprised at all you saw much better results with the high copper than the low copper. If you think about it the copper only makes a noticeable difference if there is enough particles that they are close enough to transfer heat from copper to copper instead of resin to copper to more resin.
Thanks for all of the fantastic content you make!
Elegoo sending you a nice clean, new resin printer
*sees you filling it with metal powder*
"oh no...."
I'm inclined to agree with the comments. We probably need a radiator showdown. Even if just for the sake o the competition itself, it would be cool to see
Very cool project. I wonder if you could have a small circulating pump that would keep the resin with the copper stirred up while it was printing or whether the resin moving around would disrupt the print. Or perhaps you could pause the print spin it up for a while get it all distributed and then continue the print.
I was just watching another video on the integza RUclips channel.
He has been trying to build a rocket nozzles out of a variety of materials. You can get a ceramic infused pla which you then burn the plastic out of and then heat it to high temps in a kiln.
But he found some brass and steel infused pla. Those have to go through a burnout process and then a centering process in the kiln but you end up with an actual metallic part..
Tip, if you set your time lapse interval to the print layer cycle of the resin printer you can get buttery smooth growing parts.
That goofy new wave funk track never gets old, in a way that I often find surprising. When I was a kid this music would be considered the height of cheese.
Biggest issue I've seen everytime someone does a test of 'Resin + [something]' is the displacement of the additive. It's why specialty resins are still pretty rare. In order for something like this to be more successful, you would need some sort of agitator to maintain distribution, and particle sizes small enough to prevent air pockets (or any sort of clumping that would end in separation).
You said "go big!" so why not go *BIG!* If you've got an ultrasonic cleaner, it can be used for creating perfect emulsions/suspensions of things, and would likely allow you to you to get much more powder into the actual print, going from "resin with some copper powder in it" to "copper powder with a resin binder" haha!
Graphite might be light enough to stay mixed and it's very thermally conductive, could be worth a shot.
*sees sponsor then looks at the wooden kitchen chair im using*
"Eh, it works well enough. Doesnt make me sore after some hours and i dont fall asleep in it. Just the right ratio of comfort and discomfort for me."
Lol I love the way you try to protect your lovely wooden kitchen friend. But you know what, not only doesn't the Ergo Chair 2 make you sore, but it also makes you feel comfortable as well as increases your health and productivity.
You should trey to super saturate the resin with as much copper as possible before the printing process breaks down and becomes unusable. And then make the rad with that resin that has the most copper possible and see if it performs better than that last one you printed in this video.
Also, you could try making screws and bolts to see if they are any stronger if they contain copper powder (I personally think they would be weaker, as would any structure made with any type of metal powder in the resin... but that's a testable statement :) )
also, what if you were to make things with aluminum powder would the reflectivity of those pieces of metal cause the UV light to scatter and screw up the precision of the printing?
--This opens up SOOOOO MANY QUESTIONS!!!!! GREAT IDEA MATE!!!
The most practical application I can think of would be for prototyping custom cooling radiators for something like a raspberry pi 4 cluster. You could create unconventional shapes to which you could directly mount the board's, arranged into structures normally not thought of for a cluster of MCUs.
Now that I think of it, a sintering 3d printer is probably a better choice for that using metal substrate. It would allow the addition of heatsinks directly attached to the radiator fins.
1:00 That hanging powerboard has me twitching.
It might be worth comparing it to black resin, since the copper might just have increased the emissivity of the surface rather than the conductivity through the radiator material.
If there’s any electrical continuity, I’d love to see a 3D-printed PCB with the copper powder and resin slurry. Something simple like some phat traces between a battery and LED would suffice!
Suggestion for rest of the copper Powder. 3d printed heatsink including heatpipes / vapour chamber.
Add a touch of pure alcohol or a bit of acetone to act as the solvent inside ( so you'll need a fill port you can seal) you'll need a tiny amount of liquid.
That's pretty interesting, maybe there's a denser printing fluid out there you could use that holds the copper better? I reckon that'd improve the homogeneity of the printed radiator, resulting in less gaps and brittleness while maintaining the higher copper density.
Have been using copper and iron filing infused epoxy as a conductor for 37 years now I'm amazed it's taken this long for someone to figure this out..... I have a theory that the younger generations just forget history and know best....
You know the funny thing is that was just him using standard materials and throwing in some copper powder, now imagine how things could be if someone finds the recipe for truly mixed metal powder resin, without any "falling out" happening. So many possibilities, surely interesting times are close up ahead of us!
as printing pure copper or aluminium is hard and requires really expensive machines, what about avoiding the printing copper problem completely.
I suggest to print two plastic parts that would be connected with a number of copper pipes. the hard part would be to get the conections watertight, but it should be possible.
God I love it when people try something new and share their results
I lost interest in your channel when you move to 3D print but I like this one. I still remember your watercooled air experiment and this much like it.
Copper powder as an additive? Nice! With how much experimentation is being done in that field, I wish there was a better way to keep the additives from settling, like an ultrasonic agitator made to fit the resin reservoir...that'd be fun!
If you happen to have a curing station or some other way to cure away from the initial print, you could try doing some post-print finishing with that "mud". It sort of resembles ceramic slip. Might allow you to do things like line the inside or outside of the pipes with a high copper resin, if anything.
I actually just purchased the ergo 2 LOL. @Major Hardware my questions would be what if you add a 2nd or 3rd together? could your print something and work it into an aesthetic design (like steampunk kinda thing). but have simply enough surface area to make up the lack of a real radiator. I've always wanted to make something like that, but out of copper tubing. it would have actively cooled tubes in a sense. This is why I love your channel. You inspire me to think up designs and ideas.
This was really cool! (No pun intended) As for ideas: Aluminum powder? Tower air cooler? 🤔
I just watched Integza mixing sugar into resin and printing solid rockets and now this ... feels like we're going to see a lot of home made resin experiments these days.
Also, try aluminium dust as well, it might mix better since copper seemed to be heavier than resin that might caused those holes facing the same direction.
Thanks for Cooper messing up the RUclips feed algorithm. I got dogs all over the place now🙈🙈🙈🙈
Thank you Cooper! Dogs are awesome!
My thoughts landed on how you kind of need selective laser melting to make that work. But, even just dumping copper powder into resin got the job done to some effect!
Well, obvi, sparkly fans for the fan showdown. :P Okay, so they won't actually sparkle because the powder is dull, but in the clear resin, it looks pretty nifty and fits the Noctua color scheme. Perfect time to illuminate it with some RGB! LOL
Or get a sintering printer?
Well, being able to print radiator for any fitting, would be really great, espacially when you could combine those radiator in a serial configuration.
Would like to see those radiators combined and those results.
If that copper powder adds any rigidity it would be interesting to see it used on the fan showdown in some fan ideas that might not have had to strength to make it to print.
This is one of the most interesting videos I have watched on youtube, thankyou! I enjoy your videos!
you should do the same amount of the big copper mix in a more properly designed radiator print. Something that _is_ representative of what a radiator would be. As for mixing the powder, you might get better results with something more than a spoon. A blender perhaps, maybe even an ultrasonic mixer. That might yield better and more even distribution of particles. You may need more filler overall too, as other comments suggest, to help bind all the heat dissipating particles together better than just the resin which will buffer the heat in micro-locations.
You should try to print the original radiator in the higher copper mix. Then test it against the the original resin only radiator.
I also think it might be worthwhile to try using aluminium powder and test UT against the copper powder.
Maybe see if there's a way to circulate the mixture to prevent settling.
Definitely need a radiator showdown series.
I read the title as “can you print a cooper infused radiator so it will work” and I was looking forward to a dog shaped radiator
What an absolute banger montage song!
Nice decal on the Saturn. Kinda jealous
Must've been fun cleaning the vat between prints lmao
Definitely would of tried using an ultrasonic cleaner to help mix the copper into the resin. My favorite idea but have yet to try is mix multi-wall carbon nanotubes. I've seen a few odd off articles about it and so far from what i can tell is it makes an impressive difference
Try electro forming a copper heat sink using resin as a mould. Maybe it'll work better, might even be able to desolve away the cured resin.
Do the same design, but add some sort of fin infill to the outside of the pipes and use more copper. As long as it's still mostly liquid, it should print.
great content, seeing you design the 3d model was cool too
I think giving a comparison between many mediums could be really interesting as this is essentially now a poly-composite material. Should give pure carbon powder a shot(carbon black powder pigment, or pulverized charcoal) Could bond well with the resin (polymer chains need carbon building blocks), perhaps in even higher concentrations as the copper powder. If it works could be a stepping stone concept towards carbon offsetting utilizing 3D printing (Which carbon offsetting and 3D printing usually don't mingle well).
All composites are typically unable to be recycled through public single stream services, however so are regular 3D printing materials no matter if it is a recyclable material or not unless you're able to grind and extrude filament at home.
Great job! Very creative. Now you can make custom shape radiators. What happens if you use a mixer to mix the ingredients and go more copper?
Keep asking questions.
Try a more traditional design like the original EK printed radiator, maybe just spread the fins out a touch and make them a little thicker so there is less chance for leaks. I see a happy medium somewhere that ends with "not bad at all". Would love to see an entire 3D printed radiator kit with a brushless motor and even printed hard lines and TPU or silicone for the gaskets made in a 3D printed mold.
like the jam- am i livin in a box, am i livin in a cardboard box
Michigan shirt, walleye sweater, I have a feeling this bud like them lakes
6:10 That looks dangerously delicious... Forbidden chocolate milk.
I've been thinking about a drone with 1 fan in the center that gets ducted to the 4 corners. Each corner could have a flow valve to constantly be adjusted by the brain. Maybe it would just spin around in circles unless the 4 corner ducts are angled or just make them able to be aimed around a little. Just a thought. I drew up a rough sketch years ago and called it the 4 Way BJ. Thanks for the great vids.