I was expecting this might have had content on "How to drill pot holes without cracking your poly finish" to which, in my experience, is best done by drilling a small hole with a sharp drill bit and then reaming the the hole larger to suit the pot shaft. I cracked the top finish on my tri-burst Warmoth Tele learning the hard way. Perhaps content for another video Aaron? And also, how to correctly measure for centring strap button and pick-up ring holes. Again, I have my own techniques but would love to hear Warmoth's recommended approach.
I can't tell you how many guitars/basses that have come across my bench with a pilot hole drilled straight through the neck pocket into the neck. I always drill out a clearance hole in the neck pocket. It greatly improves the tightness of the neck/body, and improves tone and sustain. Good tip Aaron!
The factory can drill pilot holes all the way, if they clamp the two parts tightly together when putting in the neck screws. I've noticed different body screw clearances in my four MIJ Strats, and I think the 1985 has the best minimum clearance so it's not as loosely-goosey as the later made instruments. Not that it affects stability!
Just placed my first order from Australia can’t wait! Great to see everyone at Warmoth is so into what they do😬the attitude shows in the flawless quality of your product. Keep up the good work👍
Despite the fact that I thoroughly enjoy all of your videos, Aaron, I genuinely believe this may be one of the best videos you have ever done!! I just built a guitar using Warmoth body, neck, etc. and the content of this video is CRITICAL! Such a useful video. Please do more videos on assembly of Warmoth parts. Very useful!
I was always a fan of your videos while life was normal. These daily videos are fantastic, you are the face of Warmoth and we are appreciating your information. This is one of the good things of life these days!
Thanks for all of the videos Aaron. I enjoy the two Warmoth strat necks that I purchased and am looking forward to getting one with a Wolfgang back contour. Cheers!
SUPER helpful. Thanks so much! This gives me more confidence about leaving my mounting holes undrilled on my custom order and drilling them myself, since the holes on the neck I'm using are slightly out of square. If I'm just drilling clearance holes it makes things much simpler-all I need to do is mark them with a nail and drill with the right size bit.
Another good tip folks. Find out how deep you need to drill based on the length of the screws right? Put tape around the drill bit RIGHT UP TO THE POINT of how deep you need to drill. That way when you're drilling you will see the drill bit get right up to the point where the tape starts. This is a guide line for knowing when enough is enough. LOVE TAPE!
Really well explained, I work in the Carpentry trade over in the UK and it’s amazing how many people even in the trade don’t know the difference between a pilot hole and clearance hole 👍🏼👍🏼
This video came to my feed just at the time I'm trying to determine how to install hardware on my finished Warmoth roasted maple neck without spitting the wood or the finish. Still very concerned about the clear satin nitro finish since I 've never done it before but this video gave me the clearest explanation for the pilot hole diameter I've ever seen! Thank you!
Man was this helpful, I'm about to install one of your pickguards on an imported Strat copy (so the screw holes don't line up) and I needed to figure out which bit to use for the new screw holes. Thankfully I have a digital caliper just like the one in your video, saved me an annoying headache, thanks very much!!
That’s pretty useful Aaron, thanks. May I add that mounting/unmounting necks can result in enlarging the pilot holes in the back of the neck, thus creating some unwanted jiggle. To avoid this and having to use larger screws later, put some lubricant like paraffin wax on all screws before fixing the neck to the body the first time. Renew as many times as needed and don’t use force. Screw in gently and progressively and hand-tight the screws at the end. You need your neck to sit flush in the body’s neck pocket and not to apply crazy torque. Also, beware when installing the neck in the pocket hole to do it gently. It should fit just right. If it’s too narrow, don’t try to force it down or you might crack the narrow sides on the neck pocket. Use a fine grit sandpaper on the internal sides of the pocket until it slides right in. Peace and keep all safe !
Thank you for all the info you have given. Another topic that would probably be interesting is your preference bridge type, steel saddle or brass, block or bent etc etc. Stay safe during this hard times Aaron.
Thanks for another informative video. I never realized that the clearance holes in a bolt on body played such an important role. Totally makes sense for pulling two pieces together.
Throughout the video I could not come to grips with the fact that I was watching Aragorn son of Arathorn heir of Isildur give a presentation on the different types of drill holes. Seriously though, this is a very interesting topic. Nice stuff man keep it up! Cheers!
I was familiar with how pilot holes work, but showing how to use a caliper to determine it was very useful. I have a caliper and did not realize you could use it for that purpose. So thank you!
One trick I started using for tiny tuner screws is to lubricate them using paraffin wax. I had broken off a few screw heads trying to go into hard maple before I learned about this method.
Sometimes you have to ask the right questions. Sometimes you don’t even know the questions to ask! I stumbled upon this video as I am building my first franky and until now did not understand this small detail on drawing 2 boards together. Great explanation and great camera work :)
BIG thumbs up for teaching me about the tapered end on calipers. I never even noticed they were there! Edit: Another fact learned! I have at least one body that has a less than perfect fit because the holes are too narrow for the screws to pass through without a screwdriver. I'm going to be fixing that today.
Aaron, you just solved a huge issue for me! I couldn't figure out why I was having a hard time getting my Warmoth neck to sit flush against my Fender body. It turns out the screw holes in the body were too small to provide clearance. Thanks, man!
The body holes shouldn't be too big though, just barely big enough to allow the screw to move independently of the screw threads. You definitely don't want floppy screw holes... 🐷
@@j_freed Thanks for the heads up. The issue is that the screw threads have been still catching on the body holes. But that's a great point about not overcorrecting.
Video ideas for Aaron: - All nut options (material, color, earvana, lsr, locking nut, and string pull vs. other slot options) - Contour heel and its pros and cons. - Bring out the Gecko! - What is a 7/8th body? - Can Warmoth make a LP style flat top? -Any new styles of bodies in the future? - Can Warmoth custom cut a body shape if a to-scale drawing was provided? Can viewers send in their ideas so you can display them? - Can Warmoth headstock, or any custom stickers, be placed on the headstock before they are glossed? More fan artwork ideas also. - Can Warmoth headstock stickers come in another color soon? Thank you Aaron, for your consideration, and you continued work.
Mitutoyos, represent! If you don't have calipers but know the size of your screw, there are pilot hole charts on google. I rarely measure though unless it's a very dense wood like maple/ebony. For softer woods, I usually just hold a screw up to a contrasting background and put the chuck-end of a drill bit up to it and eyeball it.
FYI, in the trades the inner diameter (of the shank) is called the "minor diameter" and the outer diameter of the screw flutes is called the "major diameter".
When I was young I got a hold of a cheap neck with no mounting holes yet drilled. I thought “why do I need to drill? Just drive in the screws with force and I’m good”. Well the neck heel snapped in several places from my idiocy. I was able to salvage the neck by using some glue and nails, but it still brings me bad memories of my first guitar build.
Thanks! This really helps because I understand that Fender does not drill clearance holes in the body. Fender also does not use partially threaded screws to join the neck and the body, which I understand to be more effective for drawing pieces of wood together for a good, tight fit (vs fully threaded screws). Your thoughts on using partially threaded screws with clearance holes and pilot holes -- ??
This video may be one of the most informative that you have ever done!! Thank you for this one! Would it be possible for you to shoot a video on how YOU put together a guitar using Warmoth parts? I think many of us would find this incredibly useful especially if we're on the fence about building one. Thank you.
MAJOR diameter and MINOR diameter. 👍🏼 Otherwise, very good information, clear presentation. Most standard shop clearance holes are 0.032" over major diameter, but since I was taught to use 0.016" over major diameter that's what I prefer. Not as sloppy.
Aaron, one day could you do a video comparing a contoured heel vs regular heel? I can’t believe there would be any difference in tone, sustain, etc. But it’d be fun to hear how different they feel to play and confirm there are no trade-offs. Appreciate the videos.
Aaron, as subjective as this suggestion could be, it would be cool to do a video on guitar necks for players with small hands- that want to bend with vibrato. I know it's personal preference, but in general, it would be nice to know what Warmoth offers for those of us who can't wrap our thumb over the neck so easily. Thanks!
Hey Aaron Great video my friend!! Always great advice and explanation's from the WARMOTH GUY. Your video's are great distractions from all that is going on in the world these days. Keep em coming please. I thought you said you were going to sing for us! I'm always happy with some guitar how to video's. Thanks again for all you do!!!
that mahogany looks really good ,light color golden like ,, very beautiful ,,, i would do that without a top front , i like body and neck to have the same wood btw ,, for the sound , but also the look
How does the contoured neck heel effect the screw angle going into the neck? It the screw goes in straight it dosent serm like the screw would set flush on the angeld neck plate. If the screw follows the pocket angle it doesn't serm like a straight hole on the neck would receive the angled screw well. Will you explain how this works?
Good question! On our contoured heel the screws go in straight, and as you theorize the heads of the two screws at the deepest end of the contour do sit ever-so-slightly askew in the neck plate. In practice, it's barely noticeable and doesn't affect playability at all.
When installing Schaller tuners in tele neck what’s the best way to line up the tuners and can the holes be drilled while the tuner is installed. Also what type of drill and bits do you recommend. Thanks for the tip on the caliper. Love your covid bunker shows!!
Hello Aaron. @warmoth I love the finish of that body, and I want that finish in my custom build. Could you confirm for me if it is Turquoise Dye or Aquamarine Dye please?
I have some stuff from Rockler Woodworking called Screw Lube. It's not for sex, it helps screws not break when someone is driving them into new wood which is quite common on vintage style tuners.
Paraffin or bees wax does exactly the same thing, actually. But it's a great tip, eg. for setting the original-style solid bridge posts on an OFR (which need to be tight clearance but also not overstress the wood.)
Do you have any advice for drilling for the volume/tone pots .. just in case you want them somewhere other than Warmoth drills them (but still within control cavity boundaries)?
Do the same theories apply when it come to roasted maple? Should I use a drill the size of the screw shaft or a bit bigger? I do not want to crack the heel of the neck.
Hey Aaron! I hope you guys are all staying healthy out there. Is Spike or anyone else answering emails? I've been trying to get in touch but there's been no response at all. If you could give us an update, it would be great. Thanks.
"Hey heh heh heh heh hey, one break, comin up..." But you already knew that. Also, you've learned this old wood killer a truly useful tip & I thank ye...!
Why are oil finishes not allowed for warranty coverage? How many coats of wipe on poly would be needed for warranty coverage? Could the gunstock finish be used over cured poly? Many people seem to like that finish.
Question about finishes on roasted bodies. I am considering a roasted Alder or Ash chambered Strat replacement body. I own a roasted maple neck which feels so good unfinished. I was wondering if I could leave a roasted Ash or Alder body unfinished as well? I understand I can burnish the Maple neck with a little sanding. Can I burnish a roasted Ash or Alder body the same way?
Thanks, very succint instructions. I'll be drilling holes to mount a stabilizer plate to the head of my guitar, and screwing a camera mount to the plate. I don't want my thrashing instincts to apply damaging amounts of torque to my head/neck.
I know I'm four years late on this, but great video. One question, though, if you're still monitoring comments on this -- for pilot holes, how deep you drill the hole? As deep as the screw will go down, or not that deep?
Is there any downside to using a washer sunk flush with the body under each screw, Ibanez style, intead of a neck plate when dealing with Warmoth necks and bodies?
Aaron, how about couple of vids building a new guitar from the parts you have? Those we good tips on the pilot holes etc. I’m sure you have lots more on wiring etc
I don't have enough parts to build a complete one at home, but as soon as we get back to work and the backlog of orders clears up I'll secure a new neck and do a video!
Seeing as alot of us buy both a body and neck from Warmoth at the same time anyways, I think it'd be cool if there was some sort of proprietary body and neck model that includes all the modern features that can't be done on the replacement parts such as a truly ergonomic contour heel, spokewheel truss rod adjustment, neck+headstock binding etc Ideally for me, the body shape would be a soloist and the headstock shape would be the beak headstock.
I am fully in favor of this! There is already a precedent for propriety Warmoth heel joints (7/8 line, Gecko, Short Scale Bass). I would love to see the idea expanded to include modern guitar features like truly sculpted heels, spokewheel, etc. We have talked about this some, but it would mean some fundamental changes in production, and a lot of R&D. However, it would really modernize our offering! The question is, if we invest all that it would take to do it, are people going to buy it....or just keep buying the F-shaped stuff? I guess we will find out when we release our original 40th Anniversary guitars next month..... :)
Sooo, in Jan we got the new fingerboard compound radius options, in Feb we got - finally!! - solid orange as new colour option, in Mar limited colours bodies in the showcase... is anyone else as excited as me what we'll get in April? 🤔🤨
It's already been revealed. Warmoth is releasing two new fully built guitars. Completely original designs, top-shelf hardware throughout. Quantities are will be very limited. Check our IG channel for sneak peeks.
I have a question: Mounting a floyd rose locking nut through the back of the neck, which I'm told Warmoth likes to do, are you supposed to drill the hole in the wood so that the screw screws into the wood and then the nut or should the wood hole be the same size as the teeth of the screw? This is a genuine question and I'm about to do this soon. I've never owned a guitar with a floyd nut mounted from the back and I got the idea from warmoth lol. I assume from what you've said in this video that the neck wood should be the same size as the teeth of the screw so it just goes right through to the locking nuts teeth but I could be completely wrong in this assumption. Thanks a bunch for so much useful information! I love this channel.
hello aron!, I'm about to send warmoth to make a body and I would love it to be very similar to the one in this video, could you tell me how to ask for it to hope that it is the closest thing to this? back, thank you very much aron
Hey Aaron I have question for you The warmoth 24 fret necks have a fretboard overhang which is not the most useuful way if you want good upper access (assuming you have a matching warmoth body. What if someone took a 24 fret warmoth neck and put it to a body that would have a neck pocket that will have no "wall" on the higher string side so that it would look like L shape with the intention of starting the lower horn of the guitar where the 24th fret would be? Would you have neck stability issues? Hope it makes sense 😁
3:37 NO BREAK for Aaron! Only big, huge THANK YOU for everything that you are doing. Your videos are wonderful.
One break, comin' up! :)
"Give me a break Dave...."
I was expecting this might have had content on "How to drill pot holes without cracking your poly finish" to which, in my experience, is best done by drilling a small hole with a sharp drill bit and then reaming the the hole larger to suit the pot shaft. I cracked the top finish on my tri-burst Warmoth Tele learning the hard way.
Perhaps content for another video Aaron? And also, how to correctly measure for centring strap button and pick-up ring holes. Again, I have my own techniques but would love to hear Warmoth's recommended approach.
I can't tell you how many guitars/basses that have come across my bench with a pilot hole drilled straight through the neck pocket into the neck. I always drill out a clearance hole in the neck pocket. It greatly improves the tightness of the neck/body, and improves tone and sustain. Good tip Aaron!
The factory can drill pilot holes all the way, if they clamp the two parts tightly together when putting in the neck screws.
I've noticed different body screw clearances in my four MIJ Strats, and I think the 1985 has the best minimum clearance so it's not as loosely-goosey as the later made instruments. Not that it affects stability!
Just placed my first order from Australia can’t wait! Great to see everyone at Warmoth is so into what they do😬the attitude shows in the flawless quality of your product. Keep up the good work👍
Despite the fact that I thoroughly enjoy all of your videos, Aaron, I genuinely believe this may be one of the best videos you have ever done!! I just built a guitar using Warmoth body, neck, etc. and the content of this video is CRITICAL! Such a useful video. Please do more videos on assembly of Warmoth parts. Very useful!
I was always a fan of your videos while life was normal. These daily videos are fantastic, you are the face of Warmoth and we are appreciating your information. This is one of the good things of life these days!
Wish I would have watched this before I tried my first build. I put cracks in the head stock just like you was talking about. Great video!
I found this incredibly useful, Aaron. Cheers from Duluth, MN!
Thanks for all of the videos Aaron. I enjoy the two Warmoth strat necks that I purchased and am looking forward to getting one with a Wolfgang back contour. Cheers!
SUPER helpful. Thanks so much! This gives me more confidence about leaving my mounting holes undrilled on my custom order and drilling them myself, since the holes on the neck I'm using are slightly out of square. If I'm just drilling clearance holes it makes things much simpler-all I need to do is mark them with a nail and drill with the right size bit.
Another good tip folks. Find out how deep you need to drill based on the length of the screws right? Put tape around the drill bit RIGHT UP TO THE POINT of how deep you need to drill.
That way when you're drilling you will see the drill bit get right up to the point where the tape starts. This is a guide line for knowing when enough is enough. LOVE TAPE!
Really well explained, I work in the Carpentry trade over in the UK and it’s amazing how many people even in the trade don’t know the difference between a pilot hole and clearance hole 👍🏼👍🏼
That is a very eloquent, precise and interesting explanation, there is not enough said about this subject, thanks for your presentation.good video.
As someone just starting out you answered every question I had and then some, great video!
This video came to my feed just at the time I'm trying to determine how to install hardware on my finished Warmoth roasted maple neck without spitting the wood or the finish. Still very concerned about the clear satin nitro finish since I 've never done it before but this video gave me the clearest explanation for the pilot hole diameter I've ever seen! Thank you!
Man was this helpful, I'm about to install one of your pickguards on an imported Strat copy (so the screw holes don't line up) and I needed to figure out which bit to use for the new screw holes. Thankfully I have a digital caliper just like the one in your video, saved me an annoying headache, thanks very much!!
You do a super job of explaining things. I watch all of your videos. Thanks for what you do, I’ve learned a lot from you.
That’s pretty useful Aaron, thanks. May I add that mounting/unmounting necks can result in enlarging the pilot holes in the back of the neck, thus creating some unwanted jiggle. To avoid this and having to use larger screws later, put some lubricant like paraffin wax on all screws before fixing the neck to the body the first time. Renew as many times as needed and don’t use force. Screw in gently and progressively and hand-tight the screws at the end. You need your neck to sit flush in the body’s neck pocket and not to apply crazy torque. Also, beware when installing the neck in the pocket hole to do it gently. It should fit just right. If it’s too narrow, don’t try to force it down or you might crack the narrow sides on the neck pocket. Use a fine grit sandpaper on the internal sides of the pocket until it slides right in. Peace and keep all safe !
Aaron, I have really been loving these videos. Once everyone gets back to business I hope that you can keep them up a bit more.
Thank you for all the info you have given. Another topic that would probably be interesting is your preference bridge type, steel saddle or brass, block or bent etc etc. Stay safe during this hard times Aaron.
I hope free or discounted parts a fringe benefit of working at Warmoth.
Thanks for another informative video. I never realized that the clearance holes in a bolt on body played such an important role. Totally makes sense for pulling two pieces together.
Throughout the video I could not come to grips with the fact that I was watching Aragorn son of Arathorn heir of Isildur give a presentation on the different types of drill holes. Seriously though, this is a very interesting topic. Nice stuff man keep it up! Cheers!
I was familiar with how pilot holes work, but showing how to use a caliper to determine it was very useful. I have a caliper and did not realize you could use it for that purpose.
So thank you!
One trick I started using for tiny tuner screws is to lubricate them using paraffin wax. I had broken off a few screw heads trying to go into hard maple before I learned about this method.
Correct. You can also use beeswax, and no it does not cause string buzz. 🐝
Sometimes you have to ask the right questions. Sometimes you don’t even know the questions to ask! I stumbled upon this video as I am building my first franky and until now did not understand this small detail on drawing 2 boards together. Great explanation and great camera work :)
BIG thumbs up for teaching me about the tapered end on calipers. I never even noticed they were there! Edit: Another fact learned! I have at least one body that has a less than perfect fit because the holes are too narrow for the screws to pass through without a screwdriver. I'm going to be fixing that today.
Aaron, you just solved a huge issue for me! I couldn't figure out why I was having a hard time getting my Warmoth neck to sit flush against my Fender body. It turns out the screw holes in the body were too small to provide clearance. Thanks, man!
The body holes shouldn't be too big though, just barely big enough to allow the screw to move independently of the screw threads.
You definitely don't want floppy screw holes... 🐷
@@j_freed Thanks for the heads up. The issue is that the screw threads have been still catching on the body holes. But that's a great point about not overcorrecting.
Video ideas for Aaron:
- All nut options (material, color, earvana, lsr, locking nut, and string pull vs. other slot options)
- Contour heel and its pros and cons.
- Bring out the Gecko!
- What is a 7/8th body?
- Can Warmoth make a LP style flat top?
-Any new styles of bodies in the future?
- Can Warmoth custom cut a body shape if a to-scale drawing was provided? Can viewers send in their ideas so you can display them?
- Can Warmoth headstock, or any custom stickers, be placed on the headstock before they are glossed? More fan artwork ideas also.
- Can Warmoth headstock stickers come in another color soon?
Thank you Aaron, for your consideration, and you continued work.
Mitutoyos, represent! If you don't have calipers but know the size of your screw, there are pilot hole charts on google. I rarely measure though unless it's a very dense wood like maple/ebony. For softer woods, I usually just hold a screw up to a contrasting background and put the chuck-end of a drill bit up to it and eyeball it.
That you! Great explanation and I needed the answer about measuring inner diameter
Aaron is on a one-man-show marathon! Give this man a raise or some free guitar parts Warmoth!
FYI, in the trades the inner diameter (of the shank) is called the "minor diameter" and the outer diameter of the screw flutes is called the "major diameter".
Thank you Aaron! I had no idea about the difference between the two...no wonder my necks never sealed too the body.
When I was young I got a hold of a cheap neck with no mounting holes yet drilled. I thought “why do I need to drill? Just drive in the screws with force and I’m good”. Well the neck heel snapped in several places from my idiocy. I was able to salvage the neck by using some glue and nails, but it still brings me bad memories of my first guitar build.
Thanks! This really helps because I understand that Fender does not drill clearance holes in the body. Fender also does not use partially threaded screws to join the neck and the body, which I understand to be more effective for drawing pieces of wood together for a good, tight fit (vs fully threaded screws). Your thoughts on using partially threaded screws with clearance holes and pilot holes -- ??
It was super useful and clear! I've never thought about the clearance hole theory!
This video may be one of the most informative that you have ever done!! Thank you for this one! Would it be possible for you to shoot a video on how YOU put together a guitar using Warmoth parts? I think many of us would find this incredibly useful especially if we're on the fence about building one. Thank you.
This was super useful. I love these "bunker" videos. Keep 'em coming!
MAJOR diameter and MINOR diameter. 👍🏼
Otherwise, very good information, clear presentation.
Most standard shop clearance holes are 0.032" over major diameter, but since I was taught to use 0.016" over major diameter that's what I prefer. Not as sloppy.
Aaron, ONE BREAK COMING UP. YOU'VE CHANGED...
Naw your great ,please keep this format. Very informative and interesting. Thanks
I love your videos, Aaron! 👍🏻 I'm gonna check out your website and original songs right about now, I think.
Thank you sir. Very helpful. I always thought two tight pilot holes made a better joint. Thanks
This actually really helped, Thank you!
Thank you for keep posting videos. Enjoying it!
“So gimme a break.” I’d share my Kit Kat bar. 🤪 You’re doing just fine.
Sound advice. Info like this isn’t as easy to find on RUclips as you would think. Or at least as clearly explained and to the point.
Thanks for this - exactly the explanation I was looking for.
Whenever I browse the Warmoth sight I waffle how much I should do myself verse how much I should get Warmoth to do.
I do the same. My next build I am going to get a already finished body. Roasted with transparent red. Ooo!
Drerex - that sounds perfect.
These informative diy videos are great
Guitar build IQ just went up 2 points. Good to know, helpful information especially to someone who has not done a full build by themself.
Liked & subscribed. Your knowledge is priceless!
Aaron, one day could you do a video comparing a contoured heel vs regular heel? I can’t believe there would be any difference in tone, sustain, etc. But it’d be fun to hear how different they feel to play and confirm there are no trade-offs. Appreciate the videos.
Aaron, as subjective as this suggestion could be, it would be cool to do a video on guitar necks for players with small hands- that want to bend with vibrato. I know it's personal preference, but in general, it would be nice to know what Warmoth offers for those of us who can't wrap our thumb over the neck so easily. Thanks!
Hey Aaron, thank you for all the videos. Could you talk about finish in the neck pocket/heel? Im really in thr dark about that.
Hey Aaron
Great video my friend!!
Always great advice and explanation's from the WARMOTH GUY. Your video's are great distractions from all that is going on in the world these days. Keep em coming please. I thought you said you were going to sing for us!
I'm always happy with some guitar how to video's. Thanks again for all you do!!!
I am going to sing....but putting together a music video of a fully recorded song takes some time. I'm working on it every day. Soon. Soon.
Very informative! Thank you Aaron!
Great job on these videos brother.
that mahogany looks really good ,light color golden like ,, very beautiful ,,, i would do that without a top front , i like body and neck to have the same wood btw ,, for the sound , but also the look
Good advice. Great bunker. Keep safe! Many thanks!
Thanks for these videos! Any special considerations for situations like Ibanez's plate-less all access neck joints?
hey Aaron can you teach us how to install washers for neck screw without plate (like on Ibanez)?
How does the contoured neck heel effect the screw angle going into the neck? It the screw goes in straight it dosent serm like the screw would set flush on the angeld neck plate. If the screw follows the pocket angle it doesn't serm like a straight hole on the neck would receive the angled screw well. Will you explain how this works?
Also curious about this.
Good question! On our contoured heel the screws go in straight, and as you theorize the heads of the two screws at the deepest end of the contour do sit ever-so-slightly askew in the neck plate. In practice, it's barely noticeable and doesn't affect playability at all.
When installing Schaller tuners in tele neck what’s the best way to line up the tuners and can the holes be drilled while the tuner is installed. Also what type of drill and bits do you recommend. Thanks for the tip on the caliper. Love your covid bunker shows!!
How far should you drill? How to measure the depth of a pilot hole for specific screws?
Hello Aaron. @warmoth I love the finish of that body, and I want that finish in my custom build. Could you confirm for me if it is Turquoise Dye or Aquamarine Dye please?
It is Turquoise Dye. 100% sure. Final answer. Don't need to phone a friend. :)
Is there a one size fits all chamfer bit size that should take care of jack plate, strap button and pickguard holes?
What size drill bit would you use for the clearance hole in the body for the neck? Should it match the neck plates hole?
I have some stuff from Rockler Woodworking called Screw Lube. It's not for sex, it helps screws not break when someone is driving them into new wood which is quite common on vintage style tuners.
Paraffin or bees wax does exactly the same thing, actually. But it's a great tip, eg. for setting the original-style solid bridge posts on an OFR (which need to be tight clearance but also not overstress the wood.)
Do you have any advice for drilling for the volume/tone pots .. just in case you want them somewhere other than Warmoth drills them (but still within control cavity boundaries)?
Another great video Aaron. And I would buy that body right now!!!!!
Well...it's sitting at my house not doing anything. It's yours for one. Million. Dollars. Plus shipping and Paypal fees. :)
Do the same theories apply when it come to roasted maple? Should I use a drill the size of the screw shaft or a bit bigger? I do not want to crack the heel of the neck.
Hey Aaron! I hope you guys are all staying healthy out there. Is Spike or anyone else answering emails? I've been trying to get in touch but there's been no response at all. If you could give us an update, it would be great. Thanks.
This was quite interesting, maybe share some other guitar building secrets? Like, what do you do with all the wood shavings from routing cavities?
"Hey heh heh heh heh hey, one break, comin up..."
But you already knew that.
Also, you've learned this old wood killer a truly useful tip & I thank ye...!
Great video.
Sooooo many people drive the neck screw thru the body.
Why are oil finishes not allowed for warranty coverage? How many coats of wipe on poly would be needed for warranty coverage? Could the gunstock finish be used over cured poly? Many people seem to like that finish.
Question about finishes on roasted bodies. I am considering a roasted Alder or Ash chambered Strat replacement body. I own a roasted maple neck which feels so good unfinished. I was wondering if I could leave a roasted Ash or Alder body unfinished as well? I understand I can burnish the Maple neck with a little sanding. Can I burnish a roasted Ash or Alder body the same way?
Nice job Aaron!
Hi Aaron,
I was wondering if we can get same drilled holes positions for vol/tone & SW just like your guitar as a custom option.
Thanks, very succint instructions.
I'll be drilling holes to mount a stabilizer plate to the head of my guitar, and screwing a camera mount to the plate.
I don't want my thrashing instincts to apply damaging amounts of torque to my head/neck.
I know I'm four years late on this, but great video. One question, though, if you're still monitoring comments on this -- for pilot holes, how deep you drill the hole? As deep as the screw will go down, or not that deep?
As deep as the screw will go down.
@@warmoth Thanks.
Yes, question:
Do I have to drill the p holes in the body for a tele pickguard or do you guys do that when you order a pickguard AND a body?
You have to drill them.
Please don’t stop those videos once lockdown is over!
Please give us advice on using a router without damaging the body.
Is there any downside to using a washer sunk flush with the body under each screw, Ibanez style, intead of a neck plate when dealing with Warmoth necks and bodies?
Aaron, how about couple of vids building a new guitar from the parts you have? Those we good tips on the pilot holes etc. I’m sure you have lots more on wiring etc
I don't have enough parts to build a complete one at home, but as soon as we get back to work and the backlog of orders clears up I'll secure a new neck and do a video!
Warmoth Guitar Products Awesome!
Do you have any recommendations for gear to buy to drill and such
Is it any different drilling pilot holes in roasted woods?
Thank you. Very helpful stuff.
Seeing as alot of us buy both a body and neck from Warmoth at the same time anyways, I think it'd be cool if there was some sort of proprietary body and neck model that includes all the modern features that can't be done on the replacement parts such as a truly ergonomic contour heel, spokewheel truss rod adjustment, neck+headstock binding etc Ideally for me, the body shape would be a soloist and the headstock shape would be the beak headstock.
I am fully in favor of this! There is already a precedent for propriety Warmoth heel joints (7/8 line, Gecko, Short Scale Bass). I would love to see the idea expanded to include modern guitar features like truly sculpted heels, spokewheel, etc. We have talked about this some, but it would mean some fundamental changes in production, and a lot of R&D. However, it would really modernize our offering! The question is, if we invest all that it would take to do it, are people going to buy it....or just keep buying the F-shaped stuff? I guess we will find out when we release our original 40th Anniversary guitars next month..... :)
@@warmoth
Ooo! Ooo! Ooo! Omg! Omg! Omg!
@@warmoth I can't wait to see what you guys have in store!
Sooo, in Jan we got the new fingerboard compound radius options, in Feb we got - finally!! - solid orange as new colour option, in Mar limited colours bodies in the showcase... is anyone else as excited as me what we'll get in April? 🤔🤨
It's already been revealed. Warmoth is releasing two new fully built guitars. Completely original designs, top-shelf hardware throughout. Quantities are will be very limited. Check our IG channel for sneak peeks.
I have a question: Mounting a floyd rose locking nut through the back of the neck, which I'm told Warmoth likes to do, are you supposed to drill the hole in the wood so that the screw screws into the wood and then the nut or should the wood hole be the same size as the teeth of the screw? This is a genuine question and I'm about to do this soon. I've never owned a guitar with a floyd nut mounted from the back and I got the idea from warmoth lol. I assume from what you've said in this video that the neck wood should be the same size as the teeth of the screw so it just goes right through to the locking nuts teeth but I could be completely wrong in this assumption. Thanks a bunch for so much useful information! I love this channel.
How do you drill holes for switches and pots?
hello aron!, I'm about to send warmoth to make a body and I would love it to be very similar to the one in this video, could you tell me how to ask for it to hope that it is the closest thing to this? back, thank you very much aron
Hey Aaron I have question for you
The warmoth 24 fret necks have a fretboard overhang which is not the most useuful way if you want good upper access (assuming you have a matching warmoth body. What if someone took a 24 fret warmoth neck and put it to a body that would have a neck pocket that will have no "wall" on the higher string side so that it would look like L shape with the intention of starting the lower horn of the guitar where the 24th fret would be? Would you have neck stability issues? Hope it makes sense 😁
This is really helpful, thank you
Thank you Aaron
Very useful. Thank you!
Very informative. Keep
Em coming.