I don't own an Extralite hub, nor will I probably ever. I have no reason to spend 14.5 minutes of my day watching this when I have other things I should be doing, but I did. And I believe I am better for it.
I like how that Equilibrium frame permanently sits on the scale in the background so you can keep track of how much the dust collecting itself on the finish weighs.
Those NTN wheel bearings with LLB seals are just amazing. They have absolute no drag to them and after 20 000km they still fell better then brand new enduro hybrid ceramic bearings. Highly recommended :). Thanks for amazing video as always.
And know what? Not like other bearing manufactures produce worth bearing like for example SKF (which invented one of the major ball bearing technology's) or FAG. Most bicycle company's are just to cheap to use them. I mean, they can't even get press fit bottom brackets to work, which is not that hard to do...
@@amduser86 Yes, you are right. All I wanted to say is that high quality steal bearing are better in long term that hybrid-ceramic ones and with good non contacting seal steal bearing can be faster than ceramic ones.
Hi, I've similar noise problems on my SPD hubs, both on my and my wife's bike. But for me it wasn't the bearings so far. Ofc, I check all bearings doing the hub service too. My theory is different: We climb and decent a lot, after 10.000m the creaking always starts. Then I open the hub, do the cleaning like you and then its silence again. I think that especially while hard descending & braking a lot of torque is build up hub internally. Sometimes the creaking simply is removed doing another climb / applying counter torque. Latest by opening the hub, all the strain is released. And silent again (for some time) As always, very nice service video! Love to have another geek out there like me ❤😊
The white plastic carrier that comes with every new cassette is also a tool that can be used to re-install the cassette. it saves time and lessens the chance of mixing up the wrong spacers.
Thank you for reminding me that I need to replace bearings of all wheelsets since I'm overweight and potholes love me 🙈 Starting by that press tool kit..
It scares me that the panels are loaded by a single rubber band. No redundancy. Failure of the rubber O ring means instant loss of power transfer, and a real possibility of interviewing asphalt with your teeth…
if you are so concerned, steel springs from radial shaft seals (like ones in MTB forks) will be a great alternative. However the mechanism you described is imposible: once the pawl engage, the rubber ring does nothing. So you have to freewheel a bit first and then only start pedaling again to notice the freehub is no longer catching, there is no loss of power, there is a loss of posibility to resume it - much softer type of a hit than when you snap the chain, tubeless de-seats or a crank debonds. Also not redundand critical elements!
I certainly like those new bearing pullers that come with some bearing presses nowadays so you don't need those scary punches. Though my Enduro Bearings version certainly scared the hell out of me when it pulled the bearing out sideways, and actually caused the races to snap in half! Also, expensive caeramig bearing manufacurer Kogel bearings at some point claimed that you're very likely to damage the seals when servicing cartridge bearings and suggested getting a set of new seals from the manufacturer if you wanted to try servicing them.
Had a similar issue this summer. Ended up being a bearing failure in my pedal. The year before that it was a loose derailleur hanger. I keep adding things to my list that make those noises.
Another great production vid as per usual! Love your work. But damn those hubs (especially for the $, almost double $ vs. DT 240 EXP) are a walking (spinning?) compromise for such little weight savings (a DT 240 is 191grams vs. an Extralite CyberRear in 142x12 at 145g = 46grams saved to compromise in one of the worst locations (rear hub), where as going super light in the front is no issues (just a shell). 1) Cartridge bearing hub but still need to preload it like a cup and cone hub 2) Hub engagement relies on a suddenly perishable o-ring? Obviously been tested but the extra security of a metal spring for another 3-4 grams in a hard sprint is well worth it 3) 2 pawls with a limit of 1:1 ratios? I feel like this hub chasing weight with pawls is similar to pawled hubs chasing super high POE (E.g. I9 Hydra which causes imbalanced load and snapped axles if not cleaned super regularly) - both designs fly too close to the sun with regards to tolerances and/or durability.
45g off a 191g hub is HUUUGE! 😁 But obviously you don't pick an Extralite hub if durability is you end all and be all :) For whatever it's worth, it's my favorite hub of all I have tried. Very quiet, minimal freehub drag and unbeatable weight. Definitely wouldn't recommend it to anyone not interested in bike maintenance though
I am a bit surprised that there are only 2 pawls and there is no sleeve between the bearings of the rotor! I have a rear hub from Bitex and there is a sleeve in the rotor to preload the bearings. When I want to change the main bearings, I have to press the inner main bearing first in, put the axle in and then press the outer main bearing in. Getting the main bearings out is easy by simply tapping the axle out with a hammer :) The axle is holding the main bearings and preventing any movement sideways. Eventually there is the need to put some shims on the axle to Compensate for tolerances and preload the bearings. They are 2x6803(rotor) and 1x6903,1x6802(main axle). I saw, your hub has some kind of micro adjuster I replaced the smaller main bearing 6802 with a ceramic-hybrid abec5, which runs silky smooth and will hopefully last longer despite the smaller size😀
2 pawls apparently puts more side load on the bearing which will lead to premature failure. You could argue its bad design but, thats what you get when you buy the lightest components.
11:07 Your bearings come with a different kind of grease, of which a fraction will eventually escape and mix with what you apply. Do check whether they're compatible!
There should be a super thin spacer underneath the freehub, between worn bearings - that's what must have killed them, they were sort of rubbing agains each other and also not having proper preload. This will damage those precious NTNs too! Although the damage might take longer to show up
@@ridesofjapan hmmm hopefully with a new build video to boot! Do you recon you could build it better than before? Or will you go more endurance build on the frame? What’s the max tyre size for the EQ? 35s I suspect?
@@dalescott3942 35mm might be tight in the rear (haven’t tried), but 32 should be ok even on 24 internal rims. Build with be similar just working on a new cockpit solution.
3:32 If it contains wood it'll abrate and thereby make shiny parts dull. Use "wood-free" ("non-woven cloth", "wipes for care") instead on everything painted.
I had once noise from that area, detected by pulling on the tire side-to-side and fixed it just by tightening the axle - likely a different problem though but sometimes the play is adding the noise.
A better option is to put a light threadlocker on the inside of the cap or in the axle itself. Tightening the thru-axle sometimes also twists the cap thus increasing the preload on the bearings and causing them to wear prematurely.
as long as your small chainring on the front is the same size as the biggest cog in the back you'll be at 1.0 In other words, if your chainring is smaller than your biggest cog you are "out of spec" according to Extralite.
13:25 Ceramic bearings cost 14 to 18€, where steel costs 8€. Though that's not the prices at bike shops, but stores that target mechanics and engineers. 🙂
i was having this problem too, started from pushing out the pressfit bb, retighten the crank bolt, check bottle cage screw.. at the end... is the bloody hub need to re-grease
Benefit of riding a 50 year old road bike with cup and cone bearing: everything is super easy to diagnose and maintenance rarely needs a special tool. Downside of riding a 50 year old road bike with cup and cone bearings: it's a 50 year old bike with cup and cone bearings so it ALWAYS needs some kind of maintenance. 😂
Bearings came loose too easily, made me think about tolerances. If the hub eats them too quickly, one of the root causes might be so. I don't like either the O-ring spring ratchet system. I'd always loved DT hubs... though.
DTs were known for bad radial tolerances for some time too, they seem to have sorted it out couple of years ago though. Also personally hate how they use O-pattern arrangement with one semi-fixed and one quasi-floating bearings. When the textbook is X with both semi-fixed. The problem with this particular hub - axial tolerance stack up: as hub body is pressed from one side and the freehub from another, nothing takes up the slack in the bearings and prevents the damaged ones from rubbing full face against full face. Meaning, it's just a missing washer.
By Asia you mean like aliexpress? In that case be aware it’s the Wild West. I don’t know if any reliable online stores that sell NTN sorry. In Japan I get mine from monotaro.com (but that’s Japan only)
@@WT-up8ew since I don’t live “outside of Japan” I can’t really give you any hard recommendations. I’d say look up the actual NTN distribution in AUS and look up retailers from there. Like stated above the “big international” sites are the Wild West, not only Ali express but eBay and Amazon market place is all the same. I know hambini engineering sold them online in the past at least. Could be worth checking out if you can’t find any local option.
@@ridesofjapan How do you rate the longevity of these extralite cyberhubs vs the Carbon-Ti hubs from your other wheelset? Which set would you buy, if you are to build up another wheelset again?
Would not an easier solution be get a belt drive bike ? Having looked at the bike industry over the last few years with the impact of the belt drive being the biggest uptake across the complete industry be it mountain bike, touring bike, cargo bike, many electric bikes, apart from the disc brake the belt drive has been the second biggest uptake, year on year the belt drive system has been increasing 30% , personally it’s only a matter of time that it will be the road bikes turn = wow = no oil, no maintenance = more time on the bike = win win situation.
enduro bearings are shit and overpriced a lot. any standard SKF or NTN indudtrial bearing are lightyears better. here i use the special SKF E2. low friction bearings on all drivetrain. SKF has full ceramic and hybrid steel/zircon bearings too but the prices...... (X _ x)
My touring bike has basically had every component in the drive train and the frame replaced and it’s still making the same noise after almost 20 years. 😂
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
I tell myself the creaks are because of the mega watts I produce 😂
LOL!
I don't own an Extralite hub, nor will I probably ever. I have no reason to spend 14.5 minutes of my day watching this when I have other things I should be doing, but I did. And I believe I am better for it.
Appreciate your sacrifice 🙏😁
Nobody gets me more hyped about new bearings. Best tech videos on RUclips!
even Hambini???
I like how that Equilibrium frame permanently sits on the scale in the background so you can keep track of how much the dust collecting itself on the finish weighs.
Those NTN wheel bearings with LLB seals are just amazing. They have absolute no drag to them and after 20 000km they still fell better then brand new enduro hybrid ceramic bearings. Highly recommended :). Thanks for amazing video as always.
And know what? Not like other bearing manufactures produce worth bearing like for example SKF (which invented one of the major ball bearing technology's) or FAG. Most bicycle company's are just to cheap to use them. I mean, they can't even get press fit bottom brackets to work, which is not that hard to do...
@@amduser86 Yes, you are right. All I wanted to say is that high quality steal bearing are better in long term that hybrid-ceramic ones and with good non contacting seal steal bearing can be faster than ceramic ones.
Hi, I've similar noise problems on my SPD hubs, both on my and my wife's bike. But for me it wasn't the bearings so far. Ofc, I check all bearings doing the hub service too. My theory is different: We climb and decent a lot, after 10.000m the creaking always starts. Then I open the hub, do the cleaning like you and then its silence again. I think that especially while hard descending & braking a lot of torque is build up hub internally. Sometimes the creaking simply is removed doing another climb / applying counter torque. Latest by opening the hub, all the strain is released. And silent again (for some time)
As always, very nice service video! Love to have another geek out there like me ❤😊
The white plastic carrier that comes with every new cassette is also a tool that can be used to re-install the cassette. it saves time and lessens the chance of mixing up the wrong spacers.
Axel Toast seems like a proper metal name!
Thank you for reminding me that I need to replace bearings of all wheelsets since I'm overweight and potholes love me 🙈 Starting by that press tool kit..
Bearing assembly and removal tools are interesting kits. I like the clinical look of your technical videos.
NTN bearings are great, used them when I did this same change on a DT Swiss hub. Made a massive difference.
It scares me that the panels are loaded by a single rubber band. No redundancy. Failure of the rubber O ring means instant loss of power transfer, and a real possibility of interviewing asphalt with your teeth…
that sacares me AF, i think the steel springs are safest and 1gr insane gain.
if you are so concerned, steel springs from radial shaft seals (like ones in MTB forks) will be a great alternative. However the mechanism you described is imposible: once the pawl engage, the rubber ring does nothing. So you have to freewheel a bit first and then only start pedaling again to notice the freehub is no longer catching, there is no loss of power, there is a loss of posibility to resume it - much softer type of a hit than when you snap the chain, tubeless de-seats or a crank debonds. Also not redundand critical elements!
Very well crafted video! Thanks for the ultra nerdy repair demo! Love it!!
I certainly like those new bearing pullers that come with some bearing presses nowadays so you don't need those scary punches. Though my Enduro Bearings version certainly scared the hell out of me when it pulled the bearing out sideways, and actually caused the races to snap in half!
Also, expensive caeramig bearing manufacurer Kogel bearings at some point claimed that you're very likely to damage the seals when servicing cartridge bearings and suggested getting a set of new seals from the manufacturer if you wanted to try servicing them.
Merry Christmas Tobias 🎄
My old bike makes so many creaks and squeaks I just embrace it now 😂
Had a similar issue this summer. Ended up being a bearing failure in my pedal. The year before that it was a loose derailleur hanger. I keep adding things to my list that make those noises.
I know it is not reasonable to buy new frames and bike components all the time, but oh boy I would like another bike build video of yours :)
Another great production vid as per usual! Love your work.
But damn those hubs (especially for the $, almost double $ vs. DT 240 EXP) are a walking (spinning?) compromise for such little weight savings (a DT 240 is 191grams vs. an Extralite CyberRear in 142x12 at 145g = 46grams saved to compromise in one of the worst locations (rear hub), where as going super light in the front is no issues (just a shell).
1) Cartridge bearing hub but still need to preload it like a cup and cone hub
2) Hub engagement relies on a suddenly perishable o-ring? Obviously been tested but the extra security of a metal spring for another 3-4 grams in a hard sprint is well worth it
3) 2 pawls with a limit of 1:1 ratios? I feel like this hub chasing weight with pawls is similar to pawled hubs chasing super high POE (E.g. I9 Hydra which causes imbalanced load and snapped axles if not cleaned super regularly) - both designs fly too close to the sun with regards to tolerances and/or durability.
45g off a 191g hub is HUUUGE! 😁
But obviously you don't pick an Extralite hub if durability is you end all and be all :)
For whatever it's worth, it's my favorite hub of all I have tried. Very quiet, minimal freehub drag and unbeatable weight. Definitely wouldn't recommend it to anyone not interested in bike maintenance though
I am a bit surprised that there are only 2 pawls and there is no sleeve between the bearings of the rotor!
I have a rear hub from Bitex and there is a sleeve in the rotor to preload the bearings. When I want to change the main bearings, I have to press the inner main bearing first in, put the axle in and then press the outer main bearing in. Getting the main bearings out is easy by simply tapping the axle out with a hammer :)
The axle is holding the main bearings and preventing any movement sideways. Eventually there is the need to put some shims on the axle to Compensate for tolerances and preload the bearings. They are 2x6803(rotor) and 1x6903,1x6802(main axle). I saw, your hub has some kind of micro adjuster
I replaced the smaller main bearing 6802 with a ceramic-hybrid abec5, which runs silky smooth and will hopefully last longer despite the smaller size😀
2 pawls apparently puts more side load on the bearing which will lead to premature failure. You could argue its bad design but, thats what you get when you buy the lightest components.
Mine does that every 3 months of heavy riding. That hub needs maintenance so often, luckily, it's pretty easy to clean and lube.
Awesome video,Extralite is excellent quality all be it expensive.Safe riding.💯👌🏻🚴♀️
So satisfying.
Merry Christmas ROJ
🎅
Älskar verkligen dina klipp! God Jul!
🎄🙏
nice bearing press kit.
Merry christmas indeed!
Ayyyy i just did some wheel maintenance last night on my track bike
11:07 Your bearings come with a different kind of grease, of which a fraction will eventually escape and mix with what you apply. Do check whether they're compatible!
This video is Creaking cool!
There should be a super thin spacer underneath the freehub, between worn bearings - that's what must have killed them, they were sort of rubbing agains each other and also not having proper preload.
This will damage those precious NTNs too! Although the damage might take longer to show up
Awesome guide, thank you very much!
Hi Tobi, better put that frame off the scale, because scales tend to get incorrect when you store something in them for a while.
Doesn’t sit there always, just needed to dress up the shot a bit :)
Eh isn’t that the new equilibrium frameset? Stripped already?
What bike were you riding when the extralite wheels started to play up?
@@dalescott3942 was on the emonda. the EQ is getting built up again soon
@@ridesofjapan hmmm hopefully with a new build video to boot! Do you recon you could build it better than before? Or will you go more endurance build on the frame? What’s the max tyre size for the EQ? 35s I suspect?
@@dalescott3942 35mm might be tight in the rear (haven’t tried), but 32 should be ok even on 24 internal rims.
Build with be similar just working on a new cockpit solution.
Crank up the tunes and keep riding!!!
👍
Merry Christmas.
3:32 If it contains wood it'll abrate and thereby make shiny parts dull. Use "wood-free" ("non-woven cloth", "wipes for care") instead on everything painted.
I had once noise from that area, detected by pulling on the tire side-to-side and fixed it just by tightening the axle - likely a different problem though but sometimes the play is adding the noise.
Happy creakmas!!!
stealing comments much?
???? @@savagepro9060
A better option is to put a light threadlocker on the inside of the cap or in the axle itself. Tightening the thru-axle sometimes also twists the cap thus increasing the preload on the bearings and causing them to wear prematurely.
03:08 What happens when you mount a bigger cassette?
will it stay at 1.0 gear ratio? 🤔
as long as your small chainring on the front is the same size as the biggest cog in the back you'll be at 1.0
In other words, if your chainring is smaller than your biggest cog you are "out of spec" according to Extralite.
I've got a weird creak in my Elite Carbon 50D wheels. I wonder it it is something similar.
13:25 Ceramic bearings cost 14 to 18€, where steel costs 8€. Though that's not the prices at bike shops, but stores that target mechanics and engineers. 🙂
i was having this problem too, started from pushing out the pressfit bb, retighten the crank bolt, check bottle cage screw.. at the end... is the bloody hub need to re-grease
I hate rotor bolts, tedious. So I fully agree power tooling them!
I remember having a cheap Mavic hub that would squeal the moment the grease /oil quantity was insufficient.
Lots of creaking on my rides, but sadly, it's my aged skeleton that's the problem😢
Benefit of riding a 50 year old road bike with cup and cone bearing: everything is super easy to diagnose and maintenance rarely needs a special tool. Downside of riding a 50 year old road bike with cup and cone bearings: it's a 50 year old bike with cup and cone bearings so it ALWAYS needs some kind of maintenance. 😂
Foremost "BRAVO" for the intro´s acting performance!
But why is the titanium frame on the bench? Cheers!
waiting for parts. cheers!
@@ridesofjapan
2 contact points on the hub? Bit weak, not to mention use of rubber to hold the latches.
Great video anyway!
very nice
You really need a bearing puller kit. Using a hammer on those wheels is sacrilege!
It' open season on creaks!
Great video thank you. Can you tell me the name of your bearing press please?
its some chinese oem thing, search "hub bearing press kit" on ali express etc and you should find it
Squeaks and creaks are extra grams leaving the assembly😉
What is the cap you are wearing at the end of the video. The mondrian. Where can I get one?
team dream cycling team cap
Tack
😆😆 that's your own damn fault comment cracked me up 😆😆
✌🏻
Bearings came loose too easily, made me think about tolerances. If the hub eats them too quickly, one of the root causes might be so.
I don't like either the O-ring spring ratchet system.
I'd always loved DT hubs... though.
ratchet hubs for the win :)
DTs were known for bad radial tolerances for some time too, they seem to have sorted it out couple of years ago though. Also personally hate how they use O-pattern arrangement with one semi-fixed and one quasi-floating bearings. When the textbook is X with both semi-fixed.
The problem with this particular hub - axial tolerance stack up: as hub body is pressed from one side and the freehub from another, nothing takes up the slack in the bearings and prevents the damaged ones from rubbing full face against full face. Meaning, it's just a missing washer.
11:30 Grease on the inner race of where you're pushing in the axle. Don't grease the axle itself for that position.
Merry Creaksmass, unBoxing Day, and a Hub New Year
Excellent!! But one question remains, did the bearing change effect the mass in grams? 😂😂😂
A secret I'll bring to the grave ;)
Worst hubs I’ve ever owned. QR type would never stay straight in the frame on the rear.
That beautiful ti frame out of action?
Just waiting for some things
Where did you buy the spare o-ring from?
As I mention in the video, Extralite spare parts you can get from extralite :)
Hello what disc rotors do you use?
Galfer
where can i buy NTN LLB bearing in asia? I can't find a good shop online that sells this. thank you
By Asia you mean like aliexpress? In that case be aware it’s the Wild West. I don’t know if any reliable online stores that sell NTN sorry.
In Japan I get mine from monotaro.com (but that’s Japan only)
@@ridesofjapan thanks mate
@@ridesofjapan Hi! Outside of Japan, where would you recommend to get these genuine NTN bearings (I live in Australia). Cheers!
@@WT-up8ew since I don’t live “outside of Japan” I can’t really give you any hard recommendations. I’d say look up the actual NTN distribution in AUS and look up retailers from there.
Like stated above the “big international” sites are the Wild West, not only Ali express but eBay and Amazon market place is all the same.
I know hambini engineering sold them online in the past at least. Could be worth checking out if you can’t find any local option.
@@ridesofjapan How do you rate the longevity of these extralite cyberhubs vs the Carbon-Ti hubs from your other wheelset? Which set would you buy, if you are to build up another wheelset again?
What rotors are you using?
galfer rotors
Leaving the warning sticker on the axle? WHY? 😂
Must be at least 0.5g ! And the aesthetics !😊
And the unbalance! 😂
Would not an easier solution be get a belt drive bike ? Having looked at the bike industry over the last few years with the impact of the belt drive being the biggest uptake across the complete industry be it mountain bike, touring bike, cargo bike, many electric bikes, apart from the disc brake the belt drive has been the second biggest uptake, year on year the belt drive system has been increasing 30% , personally it’s only a matter of time that it will be the road bikes turn = wow = no oil, no maintenance = more time on the bike = win win situation.
Oh I hate creaks or noises on the bike, I have to fix it or….arggghhh!
❤
✌️
That bearing tool is pretty sweet for the £££
What is that?
35us
up a creek without a paddle.....
enduro bearings are shit and overpriced a lot. any standard SKF or NTN indudtrial bearing are lightyears better.
here i use the special SKF E2. low friction bearings on all drivetrain. SKF has full ceramic and hybrid steel/zircon bearings too but the prices...... (X _ x)
...me not i hate it i hate a flat a squeaking noise driving me up the wall every thing not working properly is unbearable!
My touring bike has basically had every component in the drive train and the frame replaced and it’s still making the same noise after almost 20 years. 😂
7:42 35 bucks?!?! No way
Yes way
i have that press i think it cost me 36 GBP on amazon
Wow, that’s incredible
All Enduro bearings are crap.