Thank you for sharing and the content. I thought by applying the Satin/Gloss varnish, this will (1) protect the underlying base coats and (2) provide a smooth surface for the Enamel Panel Liner to flow into the nooks and crannies. The applying of the Odorless Thinner is a new step I have not seen before. I thought the varnish should be enough? Your thoughts and insight are most welcomed. cheers.
You are right varnish is enough. However since the topic is speed, the thinner helps make the panel liner flow that much better. This is definitely not more accurate or better that regular panel lining, just a little faster.
I second AJs suggestion to try a brown/tan/white zenithal instead of grey scale. IMHO, Speedpaints over black/grey/white tend to look like a still shot from a colourized black and white movie, while brown/tan/white often gives a warmer, more natural look. #MLH
Excellent stuff there Joe! I honestly never thought you could use speed-painting methods with napoleonics and now well... This has just opened my eyes a bit to the possibility and of course the risk of expanding my already large grey mountain... Yeah I think I'm safe for now... Until next year's hotlead. However my favourite hobby tip is dry brushing both the base and lower portion of the mini with the same colour. This helps with giving the mini a greater detail of dirtiness of walking around a battlefield than being constantly in fresh uniform, it's easy and effective! #MLH
Thanks! I know what you mean about the grey mountain. I was taking a mental catalogue of my stuff from hotlead last year... The day needs to be longer for me to catch up on all of my painting!
I have really grown to love the Geek Gaming Scenics Base Ready mixes along with their Quick Set Basing Glue. I’ve now moved on to make my own in larger batches to use it on my terrain as well. #MLH
One thing I find very tempting to do this period or the American Civil War is its sheer mass, but the thing that stops me is its sheer mass. When using plastic liquid cement for plastics, I find a very thin coat on both surfaces dries much quicker. Just give it a few seconds to start melting the plastic. In the past 10 years, acrylic paint technology has simply exploded, and there's no sign of it slowing. The contrasting style paints like speed paints are no exception, and we are still learning the best way to use them to their best. The slap chop method with modifications appears to be the way forward to get the best out of them. So far, the first rule for me is not to use white or near white as a primer colour as I find you get chalky pastel highlights. In facial areas, I find to prime here with a colour like Citadel Wraithbone. Then 2 parts of it to 1 part white drybrushed on highlights. Then, with a shade of grey like Citadel Grey Seer, that is a little watered down over the facial hair area. In a 15mm scale, this comes out great. For the actual skin tone, just use your preferred flesh colour. I've received a small range of Vallejo XPRESS Colour, but I have not had the chance to use them yet. For me, a multi-coloured slap chop method seems to work best at the moment. My main painting is WW2 or Team Yankee, and it is difficult to get military colours as all the contrasting paints seem to be aimed at sci-fi or fantasy painting. In 15mm lining is a must. Otherwise, they tend to look slightly out of focus. It it important to do the minimum work to your basic soldiers and add better paint standards as you go up in rank. Otherwise, even before you get halfway through the soldiers, your gaming group has moved on to a new game, and you have to start a new army again. You can always come back and improve the painted quality of your soldiers later. The important thing is to get an army on the table. #MLH
I have found that Contrast paint flesh tones work best when cut/thinned with quite a bit of contrast medium. Like two, or more, parts medium to one part of the flesh tone. I also make sure the flesh areas have no black undercoat showing as it is too harsh. I use grey with white as an undercoat. I have yet to try the Speed Paint flesh tones, but I suspect they will work similarly. #MLH
Love your videos and techniques for the fast painting of miniatures. I've not before seen the use of Odourless Thinner and then Enamel Panel Liner for black lining. How does this method compare with using thin-downed 502 Abteilung black oil paint? #MLH
Hi thanks for the nice words. The enamel panel liners are almost identical to the black oil paint method. I do find that the enamel tends to settle more, making sharper lines without as much need for cleanup. That being said, I often use the techniques interchangeably.
Using a quality brush vs cheap crappy brushes has gone a long way toward making my paint jobs that much better. That said, I do love a good deal on the cheapo brushes! Great for sharing with the kids and for those destructive steps like basing and dry brushing. #MLH
Since i've only started recently, I guess my hobby tip would be simply enjoy the process. Never make modeling and painting feel like work, use it as a form of relaxation, patiently enjoy the slow process because its about the journey and not necessarily the desitantion (although having a cool model on your shelf is pretty neat). #MLH
We find Crusader flesh Skin-tone is best used as a skin wash instead of a skin colour itself. So we suggest applying a coat of light or pale skin colour first, and then applying Army painter Crusader Skin speedpaint over top to shade the skin.
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I have to paint the napoleonics on epic scale!! So this video it was really necessary! thanks!
👉Remember to add #MLH to your comments recommending miniature building and painting tips to enter the draw for the Speedpaint 2.0 draw!
Always have fun building and painting your minis!!! 😊
Thanks! do you want to enter the contest for the speedpaint draw. If so can you add #MLH to your comment.
Of course 👍😊
Fun is the most important thing of our wonderful hobby! #MLH
And thanks a lot for all your great work!!!
Wish you the best🙏
Thank you for sharing and the content. I thought by applying the Satin/Gloss varnish, this will (1) protect the underlying base coats and (2) provide a smooth surface for the Enamel Panel Liner to flow into the nooks and crannies. The applying of the Odorless Thinner is a new step I have not seen before. I thought the varnish should be enough? Your thoughts and insight are most welcomed. cheers.
You are right varnish is enough. However since the topic is speed, the thinner helps make the panel liner flow that much better. This is definitely not more accurate or better that regular panel lining, just a little faster.
I second AJs suggestion to try a brown/tan/white zenithal instead of grey scale. IMHO, Speedpaints over black/grey/white tend to look like a still shot from a colourized black and white movie, while brown/tan/white often gives a warmer, more natural look. #MLH
Ah good point. I have been experimenting with this off camera. I have an upcoming video on doing this for flesh tones.
Excellent stuff there Joe! I honestly never thought you could use speed-painting methods with napoleonics and now well... This has just opened my eyes a bit to the possibility and of course the risk of expanding my already large grey mountain... Yeah I think I'm safe for now... Until next year's hotlead. However my favourite hobby tip is dry brushing both the base and lower portion of the mini with the same colour. This helps with giving the mini a greater detail of dirtiness of walking around a battlefield than being constantly in fresh uniform, it's easy and effective! #MLH
Thanks! I know what you mean about the grey mountain. I was taking a mental catalogue of my stuff from hotlead last year... The day needs to be longer for me to catch up on all of my painting!
Slapchop with contrast-type paints also works with brown/tan undercoat instead of black/grey/white.
Yep, ive tried that as well
Thanks! If you want to enter the contest for the speedpaint draw you add #MLH to your comment.
I have really grown to love the Geek Gaming Scenics Base Ready mixes along with their Quick Set Basing Glue. I’ve now moved on to make my own in larger batches to use it on my terrain as well. #MLH
You should share your recipe. Thanks for posting!
@@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies I learned how to do it from this video. ruclips.net/video/pHl9YPsYVpM/видео.htmlsi=ZhFdQ0C3OFjF33_E
Deer in headlights.
It happens.
@@MiniatureLandscapeHobbies There's no need for that. Your video kicked butt!
Thank you for your content.
One thing I find very tempting to do this period or the American Civil War is its sheer mass, but the thing that stops me is its sheer mass.
When using plastic liquid cement for plastics, I find a very thin coat on both surfaces dries much quicker. Just give it a few seconds to start melting the plastic.
In the past 10 years, acrylic paint technology has simply exploded, and there's no sign of it slowing. The contrasting style paints like speed paints are no exception, and we are still learning the best way to use them to their best. The slap chop method with modifications appears to be the way forward to get the best out of them. So far, the first rule for me is not to use white or near white as a primer colour as I find you get chalky pastel highlights. In facial areas, I find to prime here with a colour like Citadel Wraithbone. Then 2 parts of it to 1 part white drybrushed on highlights. Then, with a shade of grey like Citadel Grey Seer, that is a little watered down over the facial hair area. In a 15mm scale, this comes out great. For the actual skin tone, just use your preferred flesh colour. I've received a small range of Vallejo XPRESS Colour, but I have not had the chance to use them yet. For me, a multi-coloured slap chop method seems to work best at the moment. My main painting is WW2 or Team Yankee, and it is difficult to get military colours as all the contrasting paints seem to be aimed at sci-fi or fantasy painting. In 15mm lining is a must. Otherwise, they tend to look slightly out of focus.
It it important to do the minimum work to your basic soldiers and add better paint standards as you go up in rank. Otherwise, even before you get halfway through the soldiers, your gaming group has moved on to a new game, and you have to start a new army again. You can always come back and improve the painted quality of your soldiers later. The important thing is to get an army on the table. #MLH
Well said. It really is an exciting time to experiment with the new products!
I have found that Contrast paint flesh tones work best when cut/thinned with quite a bit of contrast medium. Like two, or more, parts medium to one part of the flesh tone. I also make sure the flesh areas have no black undercoat showing as it is too harsh. I use grey with white as an undercoat. I have yet to try the Speed Paint flesh tones, but I suspect they will work similarly. #MLH
I think you will find the speed paints thinner. Thanks for posting.
Always shake your paints (especially speedpaints) before you use them #MLH
Love your videos and techniques for the fast painting of miniatures. I've not before seen the use of Odourless Thinner and then Enamel Panel Liner for black lining. How does this method compare with using thin-downed 502 Abteilung black oil paint? #MLH
Hi thanks for the nice words. The enamel panel liners are almost identical to the black oil paint method. I do find that the enamel tends to settle more, making sharper lines without as much need for cleanup. That being said, I often use the techniques interchangeably.
Using a quality brush vs cheap crappy brushes has gone a long way toward making my paint jobs that much better. That said, I do love a good deal on the cheapo brushes! Great for sharing with the kids and for those destructive steps like basing and dry brushing. #MLH
Excellent advice! Thanks.
If you're willing to compromise even more, you can use rattlecans to zenithal to speed up the overall process #MLH
Good tip. I do this sometime too. I will try to cover it in the future!
Since i've only started recently, I guess my hobby tip would be simply enjoy the process. Never make modeling and painting feel like work, use it as a form of relaxation, patiently enjoy the slow process because its about the journey and not necessarily the desitantion (although having a cool model on your shelf is pretty neat). #MLH
You may be new to model painting...but clearly you are very wise, as you clearly understand the most important point of the hobby!
We find Crusader flesh Skin-tone is best used as a skin wash instead of a skin colour itself. So we suggest applying a coat of light or pale skin colour first, and then applying Army painter Crusader Skin speedpaint over top to shade the skin.
Interesting you should say that….I conclude this in a follow up video, but I am not sure when it will launch yet.
thanks!
No problem!
Wow, who talks like that? Painting great, voice and enunciation…. 😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮
I guess I do. My day job is in education so I likely have a "teacher voice".