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glad to see the paint pens flow very well, and their coverage is nicely opaque.

I HAD A DISAPIONTMENT AND STOPED THE VIDIO !!! IT WAS HORRABLE SEEING SOME ONE USE' A CRAFT KNIFE' WITH THE WRONG SIDE OF THEIR BODY 😱

Nice Paintjob :)

I'm totally not familiar with the paint pens. I'm not sure what they are supposed to bring to the process. the majority of the work was done with Speed Paint (maybe some normal acrylics). how does the paint pen differ from the traditional acrylic paint n brush we have been using ? This looks to be worth looking into.

Thank you for sharing; When you put on the Mineral Spirits followed by the Black Enamel Panel Liner, is this done right away when the Mineral Spirits are still "wet"?? Your thoughts and response are welcomed. (May it be easier to apply a "Gloss Coat" and then the Enamel Panel Liner??)

Your Napoleon artillery came out looking really great. I finally got hold of some of the AK paint markers last week. For me, it was one of those who held your breath, then wait and see moments. Back in the 80s, Tamiya paint pens were just horrible. The AK pen markers, on the other hand, are brilliant. The paint flows beautifully from the tip. Getting an even layer is really easy over a large area. Doing small areas like the cuffs of your figurines and belts, they save you a lot of time. Especially in brush cleaning. I have not tried them with speed paints yet, so you've given me something to look forward too.

Looks great! Could it work purely with shades of grey?

Awesome video 👍 I have used mine on my WW2 Japanese and American infantry. I will have to try them on my Naps and ACW . I’m trying out another brand I bought off amazon next

Love your channel, but seriously what's up with the teleshopping music. :D

Thanks for a very interesting tutorial. I’m debating whether to try using the AK markers. As for background, personally I prefer the black.

48"/90cm ??? 8:19

This a really good, simple method. I often find personally that a metallic sheen can also help when faking translucency, so replacing the black and grey with dark and bright silver tones, you can add a little extra punch to your glass.

Are the cards the same apart from e100? The previous box had Panther and skorpion cards already

For blue tack, I highly recommend Quakehold! Museum Wax and Museum Putty. Much better than average office supply blue tack. My current supply has lasted quite a few years.

This looks like a nice and effective technique, but it's too much of a "cartoony" look for my tastes. Plus it draws too much attention to the windows and away from the model. I think if going for a tabletop/wargaming quality, either transparent or the black/single shade color you show at the beginning of the video is good enough (in fact, actual photographs of helicopters or planes often look as if they had "black" glass); and if going for a realistic diorama look, I think one simply cannot avoid using proper transparent "glass". All of this in my opinion, of course.

Congratulations on 218 episodes. Really, has it been that many? How time flies. You are so right about how acrylic technologies have exploded over the last 2 decades. The curve is almost vertical. 😮 For windows and lenses, I have an ultra quick super cheat for you. First, I give the area to be treated a base coat of gloss black primer. Brand is not important, but give it plenty of time to dry. Now bring in the super weapon! From Green Stuff World, I use Cobolt Blue from their ColorShift metal range. Depending on the angle of light sources, it changes colour from a deep blue to a light blue. As the model moves or the viewer angle changes, so does the colour shift. People who have seen my models remark on how this effect somehow brings the model to life. However, like all techniques, this will not be to everyone's taste. I use it just for my tabletop models as I believe display models are for you to demonstrate your modelling and painting skills. The best thing about this technique is that it goes a long way to capture the changing reflections coming off glass, and it saves me a lot of time. Cheap and down and dirty, but highly effective. For protection, I use 2 coates of ultra gloss. The only drawback is if a panel gets scratched, you have to redo the whole panel, including the gloss black primer, as trying to patch it up is extremely obvious. Unfortunately, I haven't found a suitable colorshift for red, orange, and green lenses. Vallejo has also released a competing range, but nothing for my military lenses. Green Stuff World's website is www.greenstuffworld.com. Even out here in Australia, I can purchase their range of products from 2 different hobby stores. Well here's to the next 218 episodes. 😊🎉

It has been my experience for masking tape to lose its adhesiveness over time. Does the Modge-Podge layer prevent this from happening?

Weird I just searched for this and saw your old tutorial and here we go a day later a new video.

This was a great follow up to the original tutorial! Thanks for sharing this.

Wonderful 🥰🥰

Interesting, thanks.

Looks really good. How do you think the windows would look if you stayed on grey all the way through - grey Speedpaint at the end, maybe? Regards from Nottingham (yes, really)

Looks cool.

Awesome timing! I have some Fallschirmjäger Assault Gliders to paint up and I was trying to figure out windows! I will be trying this ! Thank you

Currently working on my marine boxset and have come to this hurlde today, gave this a go and it worked out great!

I often find sponsored reviews to be overly positive but yours seemed honest and straight to the point! Just leaves me with one question: Do they send additional technical pieces? Is it even a product designed to have the lights on every evening, or is the lighting more of an extra show feature? I love how it looks with the lights turned on but am worried about the durability of the electronics.

M48 coming straight out the gate as an M48A3! But now how will I be able to continue growing my US and USSR without buying both kits...

Wow, AT26 on the E-100

Interesting, it seems to cover from 1944 through to the 60s. For me, I will wait for the late war expansion to FoW myself. I can't put my finger on it, but I don't really enjoy pure armour games. I much prefer full combined arms games. Thanks for going through the cards, as it gave me some insight into what to expect when they are added to FoW and Team Yankee.

Thank you. BTW, you missed a great opportunity to say "Tank You for watching" or "Tanks for watching"!

I think there might still be some M48s operational in Taiwan and some other odd places.

The Charioteer is very much a glass cannon - I want to say the turret wasn't even armored, it's basically just a gun house.

Disappointed that you guessed the gun value and not show any of the cards.

Which tanks cards do you get in these starter sets? I know which minis are on the box but I would like to see all the tanks cards included in these sets.

the is 7 was only a prototype as the soviets built the t 10 instead

Those models look amazing

218 videos is a lot! congratulations on your accomplishment Joe!

How much of the Team Yankee stuff is the "new" hard plastic? My one and only experience with ABS was less than pleasant :). I think it was the ABS stuff from Battlefront, but there was so much flash on each figure that I just threw the pack out after trying to clean up the first 2 or 3 figures.

They are very nice looking 15mm figurines. When applying bushes and there is a blob white glue, try a drop of rubbing alcohol on it. It will disappear into the base while firmly gluing the bush.

Such amazing timing my new box just arrived.

Perfect timing! My new box just came in :)

Making great use of the speed paint over Drybrushed primer. Very effective.

Salute! Showing how easy it is to make those models look fantastic.

Well done. Just subscribed.

Scour pads for thatched roof is brilliant!

What game is this for? I LOVE tabletop miniature battle games but have yet to find a great game. I love your techniques and finish. It looks amazing.