Parts Needed to K Swap Your Toyota MR2 Spyder
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2022
- In this video, I go through all the parts needed to K Swap your Toyota MR2 Spyder. If I miss something, let me know in the comments!
Intake Manifold Shootout:
www.motortrend.com/how-to/sst...
Drag Cartel Drop In Cams (why I'm hoping to hit 250 whp)
www.motortrend.com/how-to/140...
![mgk - Sun to Me (Zach Bryan Cover) [Live from Cheshire Cottage]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_ZnbTEs4O6U/mqdefault.jpg)
I'd see if you can weld between the notches on the ac bracket so it doesn't crack over time
I'll try to add a small support bracket somehow.
multiplexer is for the temp gauges on the dash. You should be able to run Ac with out the multiplexer.
Great video. I appreciate all the hard work and sharing the information. Also I like it a lot how you put the parts on the table and talked about the differences. Its awsome and great way to show the viewers a new prospective that not many tubers are not doing. Tubers are like actors but viewers are connected to content lots of tubers are actors. Lol. thanks for making my day fam. Blessed 🙏
Thanks for the feedback! This was one of my favorite vids as well, and I hope it's helpful to anyone looking to Kswap a Spyder. If enough request it, I'd edit and repost with costs!
top notch video, appreciate the detail
Great video. This seems a lot more work compared to a 2ZZ swap. Good info to help people know what they are getting into.
Thanks. By my calculation, my initial k swap was a little over $1k more than a 2ZZ, due to the higher price of low mileage 2ZZ/6spd.
thanx ..for your Time to teach
Thanks for watching and feedback!
Thank you 🙏
thank you for this video! So you capped the heater line on the thermostat because you don't want to run a heater or are there any problems with running the oem heater?
Youre welcome! I didn't want to figure out the plumbing, and also didn't install AC because I didn't think I'd need it. I will install AC and maybe connect heat on the next build.
Hello,
Thank you for took the time to made this video. May I ask where did you got the patch wiring? ( orange wires)?
www.mitchsautoparts.com/products/wire-harness-adapter-k20-k24-swap-mr2-v3-street
@@BoostedorNA Thank you.
I remember about 6 years ago. My brother got the same wires. But the pins were all wrong. Lol
Hopefully this is a new updated.
Yeah I had the same prob with the O2 sensor wires but he usually fixes little issues with each revision
Excellent Video 👍, how much is the total for all the parts required? I have an Mr2 spyder & Im still undecided if I should go 2ZZ or K20 swap, lol, thanks 😊
I thought about this about halfway through shooting, would've delayed the video esp because I missed stuff ie; clutch slave cylinder and ECU 🤦🏾♂️
I'll tally it up, make another video after the first start.
Hey man, appreciate you taking the time to make this video
for the axle intermediate shaft, is that MRS part or K-Series part? and there is no bolt on bracket for the throttle cable?
It's a k series part, specifically civic si/rsx manual.
From what I understand, there are throttle bodies for Hondas and some slightly modified specifically for the spyder swap. They have a bracket but I've still had to make some adjustments for it to work right.
@@BoostedorNA Oh I see, I wasn't aware of that midshaft intermediate shaft, I thought kswap axles all came with that integrated just like 1zz axles
Cost wise, I am SO on the fence about a K swap. From the forums (which are often wrong) like spyderchat, its unanimous that the 2zz is just too fragile to be competitive in today's speed based motorsports. Some people say a 2zz with bolt ons (NA) is all you need to dunk on 350+ whp STis (doubtful). Otherwise, my 2021 Miata RF could do it and it very much cant (it has the same power). Then you have the boosted crowd and most say its just gonna break. I am coming from a 97 240 I've owned for the last 14 years that I had built to high 300whp, capable of over 400whp (which it successfully dynoed at) and once you put a Z32 trans in it, there's zero reason it wouldn't be strong enough after that. Yet somehow the Toyota powerplants seem to struggle with half that. built or not.
The only thing killing me with the K swap ordeal is that I'm tbh SO over the whole rodeo and just want a fast rwd car that weighs 2300lbs with a full interior and AC. The main point of struggle being costs. Can it even be done (and done well) for under 20 grand? My 240 was well into the 40,000 dollar range when I was finished (and the SR20 is supposed to go in it). granted that was buying things 2 or 3 times in some cases. but I just don't wanna go through the BS again. but I'm still a car guy and really wanna enjoy a car like this. I currently got a 2001 completely stock MR2 5 speed i just hit 100,000 miles in. Engine was previously rebuilt but I'm ready for it not to be as slow as I remember my young adult vehicles being.
I wish the Spyder came with the 2zz, otherwise I’m not a fan of swapping it in for reliable competition use (no personal experience, but seen lots of failures). The cost for engine/6spd is so high you’re nearing a budget K swap, which is pretty reliable after a few shakedowns.
My budget K24A with the 219whp dynojet tune surprised many cars from a dig (I managed 4.99 0-60) so I wouldn’t doubt sneaking up on STi's… the light weight, mid engine and rear drive does wonders. (As a previous WRX owner, they’re not fast or reliable…Sti’s are marginally better.)
I’d research which Toyota motors are capable and which aren’t and go from there. @FrankensteinMotorworks is doing wonders with the 2GR and 2AR.
My NA 219whp budget K swap was around $8k, then roughly $10k buying things a second/third time, then modding it up to 241whp brought it up to about $12k. I did all the work myself (friend installed LSD) so I saved a lot on labor.
Tell me your budget, hp goals, and goals for the car I’ll give you my opinion for which route I would go.
@@BoostedorNA hey man. appreciate the reply. Sorry, this is long;
Staying well clear of V6s in a car this cramped. Too bad the spyder isn't a clamshell like the old british roadsters were where you could sit on the tire and change plugs lol. I took a look at his website, it's interesting to say the least, it sounds like other than the 400whp GR, the AR remained 180 at the crank?
Actually, I bought the MR2 coming off the frustration of being unable to find anyone really trying to make the mx5 faster/stronger as far as product research goes. like they used to. I had an old 04 NB for a brief while and I probably should have built that. But at the time it was the same story (only about 210whp and then it falls apart). except the ND is worse while simultaneously being the more rigid/better newer car. because now it's either V8 or bust.
So that one is my daily now. Found the MR2 last year in March and despite the age differences (even compared to my 04 NB which was 3 years newer), It's a superior car overall to both and I'm pretty much hooked. almost as quiet as the 2021 ND, but WAY quieter than the 2004 NB with stock suspension and my MR2 is on coilovers. both cars are hardtop and my ND an RF. The only reason I don't sell the ND yesteday is because I already made the mistake of buying it.. lol Might as well wear it in. it's a 4th vehicle and it's a new vehicle..
That said, anything I do to the MR2 I want to be something vastly unfeasible for the ND to replicate or compete with. I played with the idea of the 2zz turboed but we discussed why that's probably not looking so hot. As for NA, I basically have a "2zz" experience in the miata, minus a few thousand rpm. Cost benefit isn't there.
I wanna get an experience closer to my old 240 (power wise), if possible. AND without all the rust (the reason I sold it) Which brought me to your channel, actually. Being that the car is mid engined and almost 600lbs lighter than my S14 was. (my s14 was exceptionally long geared though. J30 rear end and Z32 trans. it was fairly lazy on the freeway unless dropping to 3rd, and then going to jail).
I don't need mile high gear ratios like i had in that, but people say the MR2 could give me that experience with 250-300whp. But I never felt one to verify that.
Basically, everything points to the K swap being the only way I can satisfy these goals comfortably. Especially with boost. The car is currently set up for autocross. almost to the T of how Togue Time's car is (minus the 2zz.). Same wheels, tires, fortune auto 500s, whiteline bracing and an alignment that took countless visits to the rack to make perfect. I don't like autocross.
I'm 32 years old now and I'm not so interested in knocking over cones and getting good reaction times. I just want what my old 18 year old self would have wanted, had I known the MR2 spyder was so much better than all my previous cars as a concept. A street monster in a tiny package that greatly reduces the number of people bullying it out of the onramps or from highway rolls.
I agree on the V6. I wouldn’t want anymore weight in the back than the current K-Turbo. The AR 4 cylinder was around 240whp and I think there was possibly 270 and a future goal of about 350.
Now that you mentioned, I haven’t noticed any big power NDs, just track wheel/tire and suspension mods. RF is sweet tho. I’m actually looking to mod an old used aftermarket hardtop to make it something like the Solstice GXP Coupe.
The best thing you can do is get on Spyderchat and see if there’s anyone near you with a K swap and try to get a ride. 242whp/209lb-ft in a NA Spyder feels almost scary fast. There's power everywhere and literally throws me back just stabbing the throttle.
Follow my Turbo K build. It’s almost done but hit a few hitches, namely me moving to Vegas. Currently, @Autosauce is finishing it and will tune, but they found a few issues and are fixing.
@@BoostedorNA Just remembered to ask this question; how OEM does your K swap feel? and your overall experience with it's daily driveability/smoothness. Can you just get in and start it like your stock motor? no problem? run AC and heat just fine etc?
I refrain from mentioning my 93 supra (due to the internet clout surrounding it). But it was the only car I ever owned that started up and drove as close to stock as possible with a haltech. the only issue it ever gave me (and still gives me) is every now and then when driving on pump gas, if i come to a stop using AC it will die or hunt. but simply hitting the button off before coming to a stop or going into neutral will keep it perfect. My 240 with 300 less whp used a much more primitive power FC and the cold starts were ass and idle sucked until you hit operating temp. if the water temp got below i'd say 140 degrees or so it would idle choppy and die if you didn't keep your foot down. AC didn't work. maybe it was my tuner, maybe it's just that PFCs suck.
But whats your turn-key experience with the K swap. does it "feel" like a swap? weird idles, cold starts, choppy throttle, weird grindy noises, vibrations etc?
NA is rough due to Innovative mounts but it was always intended to be a track car. Turbo is OEM smooth with stock mounts and was meant to be DD. I can jump in and drive both with no issues. The turbo will have AC, NA does not but I may if I bring it to Vegas. I never had to use heat in the NA (Vegas and Florida) but I do think it worked based on how hot it was when bleeding the coolant.
Did you check/remove/replace the idle up or vacuum switching valve (VSV)? It caused the same issue on my Celica GT-Four.
I steered clear of the PFC. I went AEM, and then MSPNP, which I regret. Not many tuners care for Megasquirt.
My first swap felt perfect during warmup due to the high idle. Once warm, it gets down to 900ish rpms and you can feel and hear it on the passenger door and glove box, sometimes the engine cover. When stuck in traffic, it gets annoying. I can raise the idle to 1100 and not really experience that much but 1100 feels like I'm resting my foot on the gas...I don't like that. They're almost equally annoying. I adjusted the throttle with no slack so tip-in is aggressive, which I liked with 219/185. With 242/209, it's jarring off the line so I'll loosen it a bit. Initially, if you use innovative mounts, you'll want to drive 50 miles and check all nuts and bolts you installed and tighten. You may even find that you lost some on the drive. Repeat offenders will need loctite.
The turbo with stock mounts doesn't have these NVH issues, and I never noticed any nuts/bolts coming loose.
What brand of shifter cables are you using?
I'm using a MAP cable on the driver side, 25% thicker.
What about a k20z1 would the swap include anything different from a k20a2
I don't know anything about the z1 but there are other channels that have mentioned swapping that engine.
Does it matter which Kseries water pump housing and auto tensioner is used? Do it have to be type s?
From what I understand, you need a USDM k series wp housing, I'm not sure if wp housings or auto tensioners vary.
@@BoostedorNA Do you remember which half shaft you used?
Type s intermediate shaft, must be manual, ep3 and rsx may work too. Others are too long.
Do you need to get a Rsx type s ECU with a Kpro v4 ?
I think so, first for parameters, then tunability.
Does anyone know how much roughly all this would cost ?
I made a spreadsheet but can't find it. I sourced some used parts, so original cost was around 7k with LSD install, all swap parts, odds and ends. Later, 9k total to work out the bugs and upgrade weak points, and finally around 11k total to go from stock to basically full bolt-ons. The next mod planned for the NA is a high flowing head and custom 3" exhaust in hopes of seeing >260 whp. She currently sits at 242/209.
How much was the total swap?
Initial estimate with car $11k, then another $3k for more power and suspension.
What is the cost for this entire endeavor?
About $8-10k plus car depending on which brand parts, new vs used, etc.
@@BoostedorNA thanks man 👍
Do you have a rough estimate on price for everything you showed besides the engine and transmission? I’d rather save the money and buy all at once rather than one part at a time
If I missed you talking about the cost then roast me with a response and lmk what part of the video he mentioned it. I most likely missed it
The site mitchsautoparts.com lists package deals from $1800-$5700 but you'd need more stuff. I think with engine, transmission, clutch, blemish headers, I was around 7k. Easiest way to save is source/fab your own exhaust.
What about swap Toyota 2ar-fe instead? You think it be cheaper for same power
Lots of research going into the 2AR-FE. I'd consider one in the future once I learn more.
@@BoostedorNA so it worth swap in one right?
I think so based on Frankenstein Motorworks' vids
@@BoostedorNA yeah definitely RUclips channel to follow yeah thats why I ask, most of his video pretty good. Just want to keep Toyota Toyota engine.
I regret half the parts i bought haha
Any reason?
Yeah there were better ways to do it i found out afterwards. Could have saved a lot of money. I'd be turbo for the same amount.
@BoostedorNA speaking of that do you know which intake manifold is best for boost for a street car?
I'd imagine any that are well made, good runner and plenum size. I'd prob get skunk2 ultra race vs s2pro if I did it all over again but I'm running a cut/ported rbc on my turbo car.