When it comes to the key, you must have two keys. If you buy the car and are only given one go out and get another because if you get the CIM error and only have one key you’ll end up having to get two new ones when they program the new CIM to the car. If one key stops working but the other works it’s a key issue not a CIM issue. The flacking soft touch coating on the surfaces is the issue. The plastic is fine. It comes off due to oils, lotions and cleaners. The battery, just move it to the trunk. That’s what I’m doing You also didn’t mention the biggest issue with the car and that’s the ECM degrading and causing fault codes. This happened because the ECM is solid mountain to the engine. The vibration and heat cause solid to break down. Extending the harness and rubber mounting it in the cabin is a good idea. Good used ECMs are not cheap nor is the cloning if you take it to a dealer that has techII
@@xCExVoodoo Weak design, can try to solder the connections inside but thats about it.. You do not have to worry about the key as when you marry the CIM to the ECU you should choose to copy key aswell as it is stored on the ECU aswell, and then all setting should transfer over from ecu to cim without problem and you have the key in the ignition barrel programmed, the second key then have to be manually programmed
A problem that happens very often on the Aero 2.8 V6 is the failure of the coils, due to the strong heat in the engine compartment they fail and the engine starts to run badly with less power and tears as if it had one less cylinder. A piece of advice to partially avoid the problem is to remove the upper plastic cover of the engine and when you park the car in the garage to always open the bonnet to dissipate the heat, this also helps to make the cables and plastic parts last longer. I bought my Saab Aero new in 2007, today in 2021 it has about 38.000KM, many years have passed, but I still have the original factory battery. I use the car only on weekends, for this reason it has a few km, but when it is stopped in the box I always connect the battery to a charge maintainer.
Bought a manual 07 V6 aero about 5 years ago for 500 bucks, thing was clapped to hell had all the common issues and 240k on it. Was the funnest car I ever owned for the 6 months it lasted before the cim went bad. Been looking for a convertible V6 manual for over a year finally found one 3 hours away for 5k with 80k on it. Jaw dropped when I saw it and it was in my garage the next day, it's been a week and I'm in heaven
There was actually also the B284E with 230 hp. Not a very common version though and I think it as mainly/only for the US market. Becaure more cylinders equals better. Everyone knows that. P0089 is an early indicator that, most often, the fuel pump is failing. It's specifically means that the PWM signal to the fuel pump has changed more than 25% in under 5 seconds. The B284 uses a PWM controlled fuel pump, not "always on" as all the other cars, so of course, there are diagnostics for it. If you ask me, the absolutely most common problem with the V6 is bad ignition coils. Second most common is stretched timing chains on mid-2007 and later cars. 2006 to mid-2007 seem to fair better.
4 months = 3-4K miles lol Try 29k in 5 months. I bought the car with 179k and I’ve put another 30k on it, only oil changes and changed the breaks front/rear. Just today I changed the water pump cause it was leaking. Only cost $120 and very easy to change. I’ll be changing the clutch in a month. These cars are very reliable, as long as you do the regular oil changes and tune ups you shouldn’t have any problems. As far as the buttons peeling, just go to eBay they have high quality stickers for your make and year. If you have have problems with the window pinch sensors, just disconnect the battery and reconnect. This way you will have manual up/ auto down. Or you can just setup the pinch sensors by pulling up the window and waiting for a beep and then let go of the button. That solves the problem almost every time.
I've put 10k miles on my 9-3 Aero and I've had not one issue. Common issues are vacuum lines cracking, coil packs, and coolant tank. Make sure to turn off the car when filling up with gas (no battery power either) in order to prolong the life of the fuel sender. Check the service history and make sure the coolant tank and fuel sender has been replaced. Make sure to change the trans fluid; I've seen plenty v6 9-3s junked because the trans fluid wasn't changed and the autobox nuked itself
Make sure the air intake snorkel is connected to the battery box. This feeds cooler air around the battery. I wrapped the snorkel with heat tape also. My 06 Aero has a stage 1 BSR tune.
@@sunnylisto9665 In the SID it will say Limitied Performance and then it just feels like the car has 100bhp less. It still runs smooth but the boost pressure is limited. If it jerks like that it might be something else. Is the distribution of fuel OK?
Morning, Paul My Turbo X has recently started to almost hiccup when on full boost (affects full boost only) is that literally just the spark plugs and coil packs? Was about to take it in for a service, but if if it's just that, might replace those myself
Some of my problems so far...coils, door lock randomly dying, drivers mirror folding doesnt work all the time, remote lock doesnt work sometimes, axle boots tearing, gear knob going off, coolant reservoir, strut mounts and bearings, no power brakes at start up and on and on 😁 engine seems to be tough but it better be for the fuel it uses and performance it delivers
There also is a problem with the doors. After a while the doors and parts in their mounting system wear out and they begin to make loud noise on the stop positions. On my 9-3 the rear doors are not used often so they work great and are silent, but the driver door has become rather loud and harsh. There is a plastic piece in the door mechanism that wears out and it starts to grind metal to metal so the doors begin to sound like broken.
I got foil insulation and set it on the inside of the battery box. Then some on the outside facing the turbo. The aluminum expansion tank solves the tank problem. Also use silicone hoses do88 to connect. I replaced all the hoses with silicone because of the heat.
P0089 - common problem with "fuel pump" does not have to be related to the pump itself. problem is fuel system being clogged (probably also due to the engine bay heat) and the pump having to work pretty hard to deliver the amount of fuel needed with the needed pressure through that system. Most common fix then is using fuel system cleaner (acdelco for example, but other stuff works too) so that it fixes the flow a bit, then the pump does not suffer and will last much longer compared to when you just ignore the problem and wait for the fuel pump to fail completely, then blame the pump :) Other common problems for sure are ignition coils and sparks - wear out faster also because of the heat. When replacing the coils, you may also find cracked / broken vacuum lines / hoses, that are simply deteriorated plastic / rubber due to extensive heat during years. Same goes for the coolant rubber lines (people replace then with ng95 lines that need to be trimmed a bit, but have additional shield so last longer). Plus in TurboX being XWD, there are nivomats (autolevel) shocks in the back that are expensive AF to replace, so once failed, many people replace them for "Aero" coilovers (remember to replace springs too, springs on nivomats are not able to handle the difference in shocks). There sure are more different issues with that anway, but the car is fine, overall.
Hi the best way to keep your battery cool is wrap it two layers header wrap top sides and bottom small 12 volt computer fan. Don't run the fan off the battery but on a 12v connection that is only on when the ignition is on.The fan is a little over kill for your car but my car is 850hp and heat is a problem.
basically the LP1 GM motor from 2003 Caddy CTS that GM had Saab turbocharge back in like 2006. From the beginning the LP1 were not the best motors but then GM has seen worse
Hi I have a 2006 Aero Sport Combo 6 cylinder manual transmission. My engine light keeps coming on after trying to accelerate in 5th gear on the highway. My Russian mechanic says it's the turbo and I have noticed a lack of power when I need to "Punch" it. Do you have advice on how to fix and where to get parts? I love my car. It's the only new car I've ever owned and it has to last til I drop dea. I've only put 110,000 miles on it. My fuel indicator went bad about 4 years ago and I did have to glue back together the balance knob on the radio when I wet to turn it one day. It just split and the I bought a replacement sticker for the driver heated seat button, but it doesn't allow the light to come through unfortunately. Also had to replace the amp for the stereo under the driver seat and have already replaced 3 window regulators. Additionally, I've been having issues with the remote door locks being sporadic as to whether some all or none work which triggers my alarm system to go off constantly for no reason and that has led to battery life decreasing dramatically. I can live with everything, but the turbo is an issue as it triggers my engine light and I want to make sure that when the engine light goes off, something worse isn't happening.
Does anyone know where i can get a 9-3 turbo x oem fuel pump, ive gone thru 4 fuel pumps cz they arent oem. And also i keep getting p0087 for fuel rail pressure sensor high voltage,
I like the GS expansion tank but from what I can tell the only way to get one is to purchase it with a strut bar for $345.... no thanks. My coolant tank literally exploded a week ago due to a stuck thermostat. Talk about a part that is a PITA to replace on the 2.8L, that would be the thermostat (under the turbo). Best deal I found on the expansion tank is from esaabparts - $89 for the tank and both upper hoses.
Getting rid of that cat-converter that was right beside the battery might help the battery live longer. It's entire job was to stay super-hot as the heat is a catalyst to the chemical reaction it facilitated.
Sometimes the motor on my 06 Aero will be "Breathless" (RPM jumping around between 700~1500) when I start my car in the winter, especially when the motor is still warm.
P0089 happens at higher RPM when the fuel is slightly starved. I have been told there is a Tech II fix to increase the rate of the fuel pump. I have not tried this. Also make sure the gas cap ie tightened to the first click
Hi, I have a 2.8 V6 Turbo Signum, every cold start the following the day, the car goes into limp mode and revs go up/down, then it cuts out. When I restart it, it runs absolutely fine. Any ideas? No warning lights or anything 🤔
I have an 07 aero and would like some assistance with the charging system. I have replaced the alternator and regulator and the dash still says "battery not charging". I checked the harness plug that goes to the alternator and it has no voltage. The b+ cable does have the same power as the battery. I'm really stuck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Huh that explains why I got a mysterious coolant leak it's like super slow though I do get the big bong noise coolant low when it's actaully not so I'm upgrading to a metal expansion tank thanks for that info btw what's your gas mpg like mine says it's getting 26.8 highway I travel 45 miles round trip everyday I'm filling up every four days sometimes I make it a whole week sometimes not should have something checked out is this normal for a saab
Hi I have a Saab 9-3 2007 and I have a code that popped up .P0 300 do you know what it could mean? I press the gas firmly and it started stuttering and hesitating to go. The check engine light keep going on and off. I have one of those fixed apps and the only thing it says is misfire p0300.
I don't know very much about the technical ins and outs of these engines, but the specific hp per liter was uncompetitively low and not up to Saab state of the art standards. The 2.3 liters in the 9-5 Aeros of the day pumped out 260hp, being 113 hp per liter, the 100hp per liter mark was already reached in the early 9-5 Aeros at least 8 years before. Now it was just a big lump not on par with the competition and with excessive thirst. And of course the 4-wheel drive came 15 years too late.
The B284R variant really isn't far off that mark of the 9-5 Aero, and the V6 can handle much more power on the stock motor than the B235 (9-5) motor can.
CIM!!! Had to have my CIM replaced. It’s about $1200 plus labor at the stealership 😭Out the door repair was $1700 including tax. Now my ABS is failing. $1100 for the part at the dealership plus labor. For the computers to be replaced you need to have the old part divorced from the ECU and then the new one married to it. It’s not a diy job. Fortunately there is a workaround. Get your CIM or ABS computer Remanufactured. No need for the divorce/marriage. (ECU’s can be reman’d too.) I’m doing this for my ABS tomorrow. Taking off the computer and sending it to be repaired for just $380 which includes express shipping. It’s about a 20 min job to remove the ABS computer. Reinstall is quick too. I’m using XMODEX for the remanufacture since they are the only ones out there who work on the TRW ABS unit for the SAAB V6.
If your ABS is going out send it to BBA reman. The ABS is plug and play and it cost me less than $200 total for repair and shipping. My CIM needs to be replaced too and BBA reman repairs those as well and if you rebuild your original then you don't need a Tech 2 to marry it. Just an F.Y.I. for anyone who needs modules and wants to save a couple grand.
Yeah the b207r is definitely the crappier engine when comparing the 2. Especially when trying to make decent power the 2.0 just can’t hold up. Most Gm parts are interchangeable especially with the Chevy cobalt engine variant but the block itself isn’t very good. The v6 is much better at holding power and taking abuse. The v6 also sounds much better obviously 😂 and they don’t suffer from the dreaded Intake valve issues that 2007-2009 2.0s can have like my 2008 9-3 :(
I have a 2006 saab 95 2ltr t. with 0ver 310000 klms.and it still runs like a clock. Love to buy 2.8t but that would be out of the question as the road tax here in Ireland is very high.
@@AutoAutopsy I've asked that question because I'm thinking about buying a 93 with this engine in some future. You mentioned it is very little space under that hood. I bet it is much more difficult to service than the 4 cylinder (looks like it is impossible to put Your hand in between anything in that engine bay). Basic maintenance is pretty simple on 2.0 as everything is available from the "top" looks like v6 is a different story.
There are some connectors to remove. Be careful of any plastic pipes. They are brittle. You sort of work your way down removing things to get at the coil packs
You don't have to remove the intake. I did a video on how to on my channel -- it involves removing the ECU and the plastic hose (which almost always breaks).
Window regulators are junk, I've replacement my passenger side twice in two years. The second one just went out and I'm done dishing out cash for a shitty part. I wish the pulleys were made of metal instead of plastic.
I am in the process to change/swap a B205R vin "K" 8th digit engine on my 2003 9-3 SE CONV. , do you need to do a computer tech reset or the computer with readjust automatically like Hondas after driving it for 8 miles ?
swap it for an electric DC motor, that's what I am doing, much cheaper than swapping motors. Swedish Auto Werks here in Phoenix quoted me 3K to swap the motor and the car is worth 2-3K, just makes no sense. for 1K you can put a DC motor from a fork lift, keep your existing trany couple it with series of motorcycle bats and the 1K will pay for itself in just one year
Auto Autopsy I’ve just ordered exactly the same setup as you from D88, I’m looking forward to your findings.Will the cover still fit without modification?
@@AutoAutopsy there ain't many where I'm from, the day I was gonna go buy that Saab, someone else ended up buying it before me on the same day, that ruined my whole month. So I ended up buying a 2007 Toyoda Camry SE instead, it ain't bad, I underestimated it, the only problem was the mileage
@@AutoAutopsy I hope so... but I can't be mad knowing I own a car, the Camry ain't bad, I've actually kinda fell in love with it, but I definitely would trade it in for a 2008 Saab without hesitation.
Circumstances that saved yourself quite a headache young fella!! Just got mine back after a year and a half at the last SAAB dealer on the east coast. Had to send parts to Canada, me myself because they can only replace with new parts... Those parts have been on backorder for three years!...thank goodness the American dollar was favorable and for the brave souls in Canada fixing swedish thingamajigs... After two years and $1200 on top of the $9000 I spent three years ago (still paying it... Had to buy a new car while it was broken) I have an aero with 56k original us miles... It's fast as **** though... Almost worth it.
if you mean by "from" that it's made in AU then yes, but technically it's GM's LP1 motor that GM had the Saab team turbocharge. GM first stated putting that motor into 2003 Caddy CTS. Not best motors but not the worst either, sorta like Saab itself - not the best car but not the worst either
To anyone wanting to own this car to use as a daily driver: This may be a cheap car to buy but THIS IS NOT A CHEAP CAR TO RUN!! To SAAB guys: I upgraded from my 2.0L B207 to the 2.8L V6 because of a local classified showed that there was a TurboX 6-speed in Niles, IL (20 mins from Chicago). While I was impressed how much nicer the facelifted model felt and enjoyed the extra power that came with the Vtuner Reflash. This car is noticeably more expensive when it comes time for maintenance. The alternator is different from the manual to the automatic transmission and OEM parts are hard to come by. Not willing to settle for cheap aftermarket parts my car sat for over a month and I drove my weekend toy BMW Z4 as a daily driver. To non-SAAB guys: Find someone who will agree to work on SAABs before you buy one. I have been turned away from european service centers calling my SAAB a domestic because of too many GM parts and a regular mechanic will be reluctant to work on these. The mechanics who used to work on them are retiring or dying off and not everyone lives in the burbs or the country to have space to turn a wrench like Jacob. TLDR: If you want to drive something rare you gotta pay to play. And when you play with a TurboX, man is it rewarding!
The coolant hoses around the expansion tank for me at least, started to leak and I had to replace them but overall no serious issues, great engine
Nice! Do88 makes better hoses for that
Extremely solid engines, and the fact that we're only able to pin point a handful of common issues tends to prove how reliable they are.
Yeah, well said!
When it comes to the key, you must have two keys. If you buy the car and are only given one go out and get another because if you get the CIM error and only have one key you’ll end up having to get two new ones when they program the new CIM to the car. If one key stops working but the other works it’s a key issue not a CIM issue.
The flacking soft touch coating on the surfaces is the issue. The plastic is fine. It comes off due to oils, lotions and cleaners.
The battery, just move it to the trunk. That’s what I’m doing
You also didn’t mention the biggest issue with the car and that’s the ECM degrading and causing fault codes. This happened because the ECM is solid mountain to the engine. The vibration and heat cause solid to break down. Extending the harness and rubber mounting it in the cabin is a good idea. Good used ECMs are not cheap nor is the cloning if you take it to a dealer that has techII
Thanks for sharing
So how do prevent the icm error since u kno what causes it???
@@xCExVoodoo Weak design, can try to solder the connections inside but thats about it.. You do not have to worry about the key as when you marry the CIM to the ECU you should choose to copy key aswell as it is stored on the ECU aswell, and then all setting should transfer over from ecu to cim without problem and you have the key in the ignition barrel programmed, the second key then have to be manually programmed
A problem that happens very often on the Aero 2.8 V6 is the failure of the coils, due to the strong heat in the engine compartment they fail and the engine starts to run badly with less power and tears as if it had one less cylinder. A piece of advice to partially avoid the problem is to remove the upper plastic cover of the engine and when you park the car in the garage to always open the bonnet to dissipate the heat, this also helps to make the cables and plastic parts last longer. I bought my Saab Aero new in 2007, today in 2021 it has about 38.000KM, many years have passed, but I still have the original factory battery. I use the car only on weekends, for this reason it has a few km, but when it is stopped in the box I always connect the battery to a charge maintainer.
nice!
The 2.8 was made at Fisherman’s Bend by Holden in Melbourne Australia!! Great motor!
indeed!
Every problem you mentioned, I have had in my 2006 SAAB 93 with the 2.8 V6. But I still love the car.
:)
Yikes, I just bought that exact car! Hopefully my luck is better! I bought it at 95k so maybe I won't run into them for a while?
@@garrettrot46 mine only has 80,500
Bought a manual 07 V6 aero about 5 years ago for 500 bucks, thing was clapped to hell had all the common issues and 240k on it. Was the funnest car I ever owned for the 6 months it lasted before the cim went bad. Been looking for a convertible V6 manual for over a year finally found one 3 hours away for 5k with 80k on it. Jaw dropped when I saw it and it was in my garage the next day, it's been a week and I'm in heaven
How’s it going now?
There was actually also the B284E with 230 hp. Not a very common version though and I think it as mainly/only for the US market. Becaure more cylinders equals better. Everyone knows that.
P0089 is an early indicator that, most often, the fuel pump is failing. It's specifically means that the PWM signal to the fuel pump has changed more than 25% in under 5 seconds. The B284 uses a PWM controlled fuel pump, not "always on" as all the other cars, so of course, there are diagnostics for it.
If you ask me, the absolutely most common problem with the V6 is bad ignition coils. Second most common is stretched timing chains on mid-2007 and later cars. 2006 to mid-2007 seem to fair better.
Thanks for sharing! Here in the states we don't have the E variant of the B284 to my knowledge.
I did some digging and apparently it was for Switzerland and 2006 only.
I have a Saab 9-3 2.8T v6 -06 and the Buttons have never pealed. They look like new 👍🏻
Sebbe i have the same car..any problems with Cim or abs??
I have SAAB 9-3 2007. On one keychain, the buttons have been slightly erased. I ordered for aliexpress
Not yet
awesome!
Mine either, 06. I read it’s certain types of moisturisers that’s cause it to peel prematurely, same on earlier gen Audi’s
4 months = 3-4K miles lol
Try 29k in 5 months. I bought the car with 179k and I’ve put another 30k on it, only oil changes and changed the breaks front/rear. Just today I changed the water pump cause it was leaking. Only cost $120 and very easy to change. I’ll be changing the clutch in a month. These cars are very reliable, as long as you do the regular oil changes and tune ups you shouldn’t have any problems. As far as the buttons peeling, just go to eBay they have high quality stickers for your make and year. If you have have problems with the window pinch sensors, just disconnect the battery and reconnect. This way you will have manual up/ auto down. Or you can just setup the pinch sensors by pulling up the window and waiting for a beep and then let go of the button. That solves the problem almost every time.
good advice! nice
I've put 10k miles on my 9-3 Aero and I've had not one issue. Common issues are vacuum lines cracking, coil packs, and coolant tank. Make sure to turn off the car when filling up with gas (no battery power either) in order to prolong the life of the fuel sender. Check the service history and make sure the coolant tank and fuel sender has been replaced. Make sure to change the trans fluid; I've seen plenty v6 9-3s junked because the trans fluid wasn't changed and the autobox nuked itself
Great tips! Thanks Clancy :)
Make sure the air intake snorkel is connected to the battery box. This feeds cooler air around the battery. I wrapped the snorkel with heat tape also. My 06 Aero has a stage 1 BSR tune.
good tip!
I had an issue with my window regulator. I just had to crank the bass up and it started working again.
Lol!
I'll send you a video later
P0234 can happen as well. That's a overboost DTC. Usually it's the boost control valve and it's easy to replace. Part number 55558983.
Thanks for adding that!
Does this occur when you’re trying to put your foot into it and the car jerks? I have this problem with my 06 aero.
Around 3-3500 the car jerks really hard
@@sunnylisto9665 In the SID it will say Limitied Performance and then it just feels like the car has 100bhp less. It still runs smooth but the boost pressure is limited. If it jerks like that it might be something else. Is the distribution of fuel OK?
I just bought a 06 aero for 5k and it seems to be in pretty good condition! It has only 95k miles on it. Only issue it has is the ac fan doesn't work.
Awesome! Could be much worse haha
You didn't mention Coil packs and spark plugs.
Thanks for adding those in!
How do you make a video on the 2.8T and not mention these first? Yet alone omit them completely? Wow.
Morning, Paul
My Turbo X has recently started to almost hiccup when on full boost (affects full boost only) is that literally just the spark plugs and coil packs? Was about to take it in for a service, but if if it's just that, might replace those myself
And how "fun" they are to change...ugh.
@@mattylovesallll Most likely. It's the most common issue on these cars. If you're on Facebook, search for "The 2.8 Alliance" group. We can help.
I looked on your do88 sticker on your car and looked down on my desk and saw the same thing ^^
Lol!
We had a Rear Dif go bad on one of the Saabs, Caddy dealer placed a new one for 1K but that was in 2015, nowadays that can be a bigger problem
XWD parts can be $$$ for sure
Some of my problems so far...coils, door lock randomly dying, drivers mirror folding doesnt work all the time, remote lock doesnt work sometimes, axle boots tearing, gear knob going off, coolant reservoir, strut mounts and bearings, no power brakes at start up and on and on 😁 engine seems to be tough but it better be for the fuel it uses and performance it delivers
Lol true! 21 mpg combined in my TX isn't too bad
I used to have a 9.5 2.3t and can confirm the fuel issue happened to me aswell
rip
There also is a problem with the doors. After a while the doors and parts in their mounting system wear out and they begin to make loud noise on the stop positions. On my 9-3 the rear doors are not used often so they work great and are silent, but the driver door has become rather loud and harsh. There is a plastic piece in the door mechanism that wears out and it starts to grind metal to metal so the doors begin to sound like broken.
I have yet to hear anything about that; let's blame GM for that one ;)
this isnt a 2.8T issue.
@@xunearthhxcx Its a general issue, same as peeling buttons
@@thezaalls I understand that, but this video is supposed to be specific to the 2.8T v6 engine and its issues.
Go for an Enersys pure lead or an Ultracell brand battery. They’re quite a bit more expensive but will last for 3-5 years without service
thanks for the tip
@@AutoAutopsy you´re welcome man, i also like a lot Saabs and of course your channel. You ever come to Spain message me!
I got foil insulation and set it on the inside of the battery box. Then some on the outside facing the turbo. The aluminum expansion tank solves the tank problem. Also use silicone hoses do88 to connect. I replaced all the hoses with silicone because of the heat.
Did this help with heat to the battery... I thought I was a little crazy with my battery dying pretty much every year
On the third year with my battery
Great tip!
i have a 2007 9-3 aero 2.8l do you have some links for a new light weight cooling system and what can i do to make the car lighter in general
no, sorry
P0089 - common problem with "fuel pump" does not have to be related to the pump itself. problem is fuel system being clogged (probably also due to the engine bay heat) and the pump having to work pretty hard to deliver the amount of fuel needed with the needed pressure through that system. Most common fix then is using fuel system cleaner (acdelco for example, but other stuff works too) so that it fixes the flow a bit, then the pump does not suffer and will last much longer compared to when you just ignore the problem and wait for the fuel pump to fail completely, then blame the pump :)
Other common problems for sure are ignition coils and sparks - wear out faster also because of the heat. When replacing the coils, you may also find cracked / broken vacuum lines / hoses, that are simply deteriorated plastic / rubber due to extensive heat during years. Same goes for the coolant rubber lines (people replace then with ng95 lines that need to be trimmed a bit, but have additional shield so last longer). Plus in TurboX being XWD, there are nivomats (autolevel) shocks in the back that are expensive AF to replace, so once failed, many people replace them for "Aero" coilovers (remember to replace springs too, springs on nivomats are not able to handle the difference in shocks).
There sure are more different issues with that anway, but the car is fine, overall.
Great info. I appreciate the elaboration on the P0089 problem!
Hi the best way to keep your battery cool is wrap it two layers header wrap top sides and bottom small 12 volt computer fan. Don't run the fan off the battery but on a 12v connection that is only on when the ignition is on.The fan is a little over kill for your car but my car is 850hp and heat is a problem.
wow! Thanks for the tip
The B284 engine in the Turbo X was made at Fishermans Bend, Melbourne, Australia and Saab took care of the turbo part of the engine.
Yep, made in australia
basically the LP1 GM motor from 2003 Caddy CTS that GM had Saab turbocharge back in like 2006. From the beginning the LP1 were not the best motors but then GM has seen worse
Hi I have a 2006 Aero Sport Combo 6 cylinder manual transmission. My engine light keeps coming on after trying to accelerate in 5th gear on the highway. My Russian mechanic says it's the turbo and I have noticed a lack of power when I need to "Punch" it. Do you have advice on how to fix and where to get parts? I love my car. It's the only new car I've ever owned and it has to last til I drop dea. I've only put 110,000 miles on it. My fuel indicator went bad about 4 years ago and I did have to glue back together the balance knob on the radio when I wet to turn it one day. It just split and the I bought a replacement sticker for the driver heated seat button, but it doesn't allow the light to come through unfortunately. Also had to replace the amp for the stereo under the driver seat and have already replaced 3 window regulators. Additionally, I've been having issues with the remote door locks being sporadic as to whether some all or none work which triggers my alarm system to go off constantly for no reason and that has led to battery life decreasing dramatically. I can live with everything, but the turbo is an issue as it triggers my engine light and I want to make sure that when the engine light goes off, something worse isn't happening.
Is the front subframe from the v6 and 4 cylinder the same
Does anyone know where i can get a 9-3 turbo x oem fuel pump, ive gone thru 4 fuel pumps cz they arent oem. And also i keep getting p0087 for fuel rail pressure sensor high voltage,
Is it the pump that keeps failing? Try cleaning your fuel rail and injectors. You can buy a pump from esaabparts
I like the GS expansion tank but from what I can tell the only way to get one is to purchase it with a strut bar for $345.... no thanks. My coolant tank literally exploded a week ago due to a stuck thermostat. Talk about a part that is a PITA to replace on the 2.8L, that would be the thermostat (under the turbo). Best deal I found on the expansion tank is from esaabparts - $89 for the tank and both upper hoses.
Try installing a new downpipe, lol ;)
Getting rid of that cat-converter that was right beside the battery might help the battery live longer. It's entire job was to stay super-hot as the heat is a catalyst to the chemical reaction it facilitated.
yeah, that too. I've already, "deleted" mine ;)
Sometimes the motor on my 06 Aero will be "Breathless" (RPM jumping around between 700~1500) when I start my car in the winter, especially when the motor is still warm.
Might be something to do with your throttle, not sure at all though
@@AutoAutopsy I went to Saab shop one time, they said is misfiring, very common issue with V6 ones, not a big deal.
P0089 happens at higher RPM when the fuel is slightly starved. I have been told there is a Tech II fix to increase the rate of the fuel pump. I have not tried this. Also make sure the gas cap ie tightened to the first click
A tune should also address that issue
Coil pack replacement is a big issue
The coil packs themselves or replacing them? The back 3 take quite a bit more time than the front 3
@@AutoAutopsy If you remove the intake manifold, it'll only take 30 mins to change all 6 !
Hi, I have a 2.8 V6 Turbo Signum, every cold start the following the day, the car goes into limp mode and revs go up/down, then it cuts out. When I restart it, it runs absolutely fine. Any ideas? No warning lights or anything 🤔
Could be a vacuum leak or a number of other different things
Wait a minute, the aluminium inside the hood is suppose to be there? Thought I was the only who had that
That is a heat shield for the top-mount turbo tonprevent scorching the paint on the hood.
The charge pipe? That's from do88
A battery relocation to the trunk doesn’t seem that crazy
It's a project
@@AutoAutopsy Make a video of it when it's done :-) Planning to do the same thing myself and fit a fan next to the turbo!
When I drive my guage lights turn off and on sometimes why does it do that?
I have an 07 aero and would like some assistance with the charging system. I have replaced the alternator and regulator and the dash still says "battery not charging". I checked the harness plug that goes to the alternator and it has no voltage. The b+ cable does have the same power as the battery. I'm really stuck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would advise posting this on a saab facebook group or searching google/saab forums
Huh that explains why I got a mysterious coolant leak it's like super slow though I do get the big bong noise coolant low when it's actaully not so I'm upgrading to a metal expansion tank thanks for that info btw what's your gas mpg like mine says it's getting 26.8 highway I travel 45 miles round trip everyday I'm filling up every four days sometimes I make it a whole week sometimes not should have something checked out is this normal for a saab
Nice! Check to see what part of the engine bay the leak is coming from. My guess would be the coolant lines that come off of the expansion tank
Hi I have a Saab 9-3 2007 and I have a code that popped up .P0 300 do you know what it could mean? I press the gas firmly and it started stuttering and hesitating to go. The check engine light keep going on and off. I have one of those fixed apps and the only thing it says is misfire p0300.
Misfire. Coil packs or spark plugs
I don't know very much about the technical ins and outs of these engines, but the specific hp per liter was uncompetitively low and not up to Saab state of the art standards. The 2.3 liters in the 9-5 Aeros of the day pumped out 260hp, being 113 hp per liter, the 100hp per liter mark was already reached in the early 9-5 Aeros at least 8 years before. Now it was just a big lump not on par with the competition and with excessive thirst. And of course the 4-wheel drive came 15 years too late.
The B284R variant really isn't far off that mark of the 9-5 Aero, and the V6 can handle much more power on the stock motor than the B235 (9-5) motor can.
CIM!!!
Had to have my CIM replaced. It’s about $1200 plus labor at the stealership 😭Out the door repair was $1700 including tax. Now my ABS is failing. $1100 for the part at the dealership plus labor. For the computers to be replaced you need to have the old part divorced from the ECU and then the new one married to it. It’s not a diy job.
Fortunately there is a workaround. Get your CIM or ABS computer Remanufactured. No need for the divorce/marriage. (ECU’s can be reman’d too.) I’m doing this for my ABS tomorrow. Taking off the computer and sending it to be repaired for just $380 which includes express shipping. It’s about a 20 min job to remove the ABS computer. Reinstall is quick too. I’m using XMODEX for the remanufacture since they are the only ones out there who work on the TRW ABS unit for the SAAB V6.
Good luck; sorry to hear :(
If your ABS is going out send it to BBA reman. The ABS is plug and play and it cost me less than $200 total for repair and shipping. My CIM needs to be replaced too and BBA reman repairs those as well and if you rebuild your original then you don't need a Tech 2 to marry it. Just an F.Y.I. for anyone who needs modules and wants to save a couple grand.
Did you buy that charge pipe or have it made? Cause I’m looking to replace the stock plastic one
And I get a U0001 code every so often and no dealership has been able to help me. Do you have any experience with that.?
Do88. See this video: ruclips.net/video/TgbVjC1_kJA/видео.html
Cam chains? Haldex? Clutches and flywheels?
Not "common" issues
@@AutoAutopsy sorry, meant to ask if you'd run into any of these at all?
Sorry I’m new to Saab’s, so the XWD Aero, and the X, get the same amount of HP?
Yes, but they are not the same. See this video: ruclips.net/video/fS3aRQPytLY/видео.html
Yeah the b207r is definitely the crappier engine when comparing the 2. Especially when trying to make decent power the 2.0 just can’t hold up. Most Gm parts are interchangeable especially with the Chevy cobalt engine variant but the block itself isn’t very good. The v6 is much better at holding power and taking abuse. The v6 also sounds much better obviously 😂 and they don’t suffer from the dreaded Intake valve issues that 2007-2009 2.0s can have like my 2008 9-3 :(
I agree! The B207 is still a great motor though
Tell me why he looks like gabe from office
Love your stuff man
oof
Any thoughts on 2006 saab 2.8t 166k miles? (First car)
We have two 2.8’s and both have been great
@@AutoAutopsy the guy is asking 3500 good price? Thanks
I have a 2006 saab 95 2ltr t. with 0ver 310000 klms.and it still runs like a clock. Love to buy 2.8t but that would be out of the question as the road tax here in Ireland is very high.
@@seankennedy5502 I would've bought it but it needed a clutch
I just had to replace the CIM.. glad my car is running better now.
awesome :)
@@AutoAutopsy turns out it wasnt cim :(
Draven Rosenbaugh did you figure it out?
Pretty much hit them all on the head. Had them all on my cars, except the CIM issue, thankfully.
Coils/plugs are an important one I forgot! but thanks :)
Do I have to dismount intake manifold to change the spark plugs on this engine?
I'm not sure if you have to completely remove it, but I do know the back three are much more difficult than the front 3
@@AutoAutopsy I've asked that question because I'm thinking about buying a 93 with this engine in some future. You mentioned it is very little space under that hood. I bet it is much more difficult to service than the 4 cylinder (looks like it is impossible to put Your hand in between anything in that engine bay). Basic maintenance is pretty simple on 2.0 as everything is available from the "top" looks like v6 is a different story.
There are some connectors to remove. Be careful of any plastic pipes. They are brittle. You sort of work your way down removing things to get at the coil packs
You don't have to remove the intake. I did a video on how to on my channel -- it involves removing the ECU and the plastic hose (which almost always breaks).
@@SaabDr Informative video. Thanks :)
Window regulators are junk, I've replacement my passenger side twice in two years. The second one just went out and I'm done dishing out cash for a shitty part. I wish the pulleys were made of metal instead of plastic.
:(
Thanks!
thank you :)
The cheap plastic on the door pulls inside.
I've already broken my driver side.
I've seen a couple comments regarding those!
I am in the process to change/swap a B205R vin "K" 8th digit engine on my 2003 9-3 SE CONV. , do you need to do a computer tech reset or the computer with readjust automatically like Hondas after driving it for 8 miles ?
swap it for an electric DC motor, that's what I am doing, much cheaper than swapping motors. Swedish Auto Werks here in Phoenix quoted me 3K to swap the motor and the car is worth 2-3K, just makes no sense. for 1K you can put a DC motor from a fork lift, keep your existing trany couple it with series of motorcycle bats and the 1K will pay for itself in just one year
Door locks
Agree
+1 that’s the problem I’m having with my 9-3 currently. Two separate times I’ve had defective door actuators.
Yup!
I just dont even lock my 9-3 anymore
I haven't experienced that on my cars yet, but it seems like a recurring problem for others
U didnt mention bad throttle body
I did not
Are you intending to leave the plastic engine cover off, and if so why?
Not sure; I never put it back on after doing the intercooler, and I kind of like it that way!
Auto Autopsy I’ve just ordered exactly the same setup as you from D88, I’m looking forward to your findings.Will the cover still fit without modification?
Awesome! Yes, it will
ABS modules and auto transmission fill plug
Thanks for sharing!
had the issue
I missed out on a Saab 9-3 aero... kms
There's plenty more around! Keep looking
@@AutoAutopsy there ain't many where I'm from, the day I was gonna go buy that Saab, someone else ended up buying it before me on the same day, that ruined my whole month. So I ended up buying a 2007 Toyoda Camry SE instead, it ain't bad, I underestimated it, the only problem was the mileage
@@LeetheOG89b welp, I'm sure another will come up soon and you can trade it out for that boring camry ;)
@@AutoAutopsy I hope so... but I can't be mad knowing I own a car, the Camry ain't bad, I've actually kinda fell in love with it, but I definitely would trade it in for a 2008 Saab without hesitation.
Circumstances that saved yourself quite a headache young fella!! Just got mine back after a year and a half at the last SAAB dealer on the east coast. Had to send parts to Canada, me myself because they can only replace with new parts... Those parts have been on backorder for three years!...thank goodness the American dollar was favorable and for the brave souls in Canada fixing swedish thingamajigs... After two years and $1200 on top of the $9000 I spent three years ago (still paying it... Had to buy a new car while it was broken) I have an aero with 56k original us miles... It's fast as **** though... Almost worth it.
Can't watch it
the engine is a holden from australia
It is, but some work was done by Saab!
if you mean by "from" that it's made in AU then yes, but technically it's GM's LP1 motor that GM had the Saab team turbocharge. GM first stated putting that motor into 2003 Caddy CTS. Not best motors but not the worst either, sorta like Saab itself - not the best car but not the worst either
B284 vs B207r let's do a comparison and that roll race i been asking you about?!?!
I keep telling you to message me or email me but you never do
@@AutoAutopsy I literally just messaged you with all my contact info.. now how many of y'all wanna see the street pulls between the b207r vs b284r?!?!
@@morganmitchell9931 no one.
@@KenCarTechMeow don't be that guy..
@@morganmitchell9931 no.
P0089. Triggered! Lol
Lol!
You should hit the find my car button in the intro let those eyebrows show
Ohhh good idea
I've been waiting to see that since you got it
To anyone wanting to own this car to use as a daily driver: This may be a cheap car to buy but THIS IS NOT A CHEAP CAR TO RUN!!
To SAAB guys: I upgraded from my 2.0L B207 to the 2.8L V6 because of a local classified showed that there was a TurboX 6-speed in Niles, IL (20 mins from Chicago). While I was impressed how much nicer the facelifted model felt and enjoyed the extra power that came with the Vtuner Reflash. This car is noticeably more expensive when it comes time for maintenance. The alternator is different from the manual to the automatic transmission and OEM parts are hard to come by. Not willing to settle for cheap aftermarket parts my car sat for over a month and I drove my weekend toy BMW Z4 as a daily driver.
To non-SAAB guys: Find someone who will agree to work on SAABs before you buy one. I have been turned away from european service centers calling my SAAB a domestic because of too many GM parts and a regular mechanic will be reluctant to work on these. The mechanics who used to work on them are retiring or dying off and not everyone lives in the burbs or the country to have space to turn a wrench like Jacob.
TLDR: If you want to drive something rare you gotta pay to play. And when you play with a TurboX, man is it rewarding!
DOU TEHY SEAL NEU PARTS FOR THES CARS..AND WAR
i hear rice is a big problem xD
ok i stop now sorry :D
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