I just built the Cougar Classic and it was a lot different from what I am used to but it was fun. I was prepared for the driveshafts and the shocks which went together well. I was not prepared for the frustrating rubber band wing mount!! LOL!! My blunt little sausage fingers struggled with that for a while!! LOL!!
I found the driveshafts easy enough to do by hand, I'd brought the circlip beforehand for the shocks which made it easy but like you said the wing mount rubber bands were real frustrating. 1 broke after 3 runs too
😂 yeah, i wish i had this built when it came out. But been busy at work 😭 but gotta pay them bills. Hopefully those still to build them will find it helpfull ?
Depends on the track, anything from a 20 upto 25. I’ll start at 22 and check the motor temp. But small twisty tracks i’ll be starting at 20 and gear up if it needs more top end.
Great stuff Richard, So my problem, with the pro transmission belt fitted i get the slightest of binding gradually on/off as a chassis nothing fitted not even outer drive shafts (Cat stripped and rebuilt without undertray and gearbox cover as to see what's going on, also front end sandwich tested to make sure nothings binding and things that slide do, i haven't been able to get to bottom of it since boxing day (bearing in mind it is very slight, but shouldn't be there, i do plan to track her) now what i'm thinking it's that alloy front end that's needed, the front belt adjuster is not man enough to influence the beast of the pro-transmisson belt.(suprised me how thick it was- i'm only used to the original) as the only thing i've witnessed when testing is the main belt moved slightly to the right, not to fully rub on the large o ring but certainly off center. Also the few build videos here on you tube i've seen all use the alloy front end upgrades, anyway it has me scratching my head,...that's why the Cougar has raced ahead,.. and me screw cannot go back lol!!! Thanks for the heads up on the wider steering rack, i'll add that to me wishlist,..the one with the out of stock teflon thingys (out since nov lol) As for front one ways, i love em had em in a couple of Yokomos really livened em up infield on the twisty stuff, turning in off throttle allows the outer front wheel to over rotate (why high traction surfaces need) higher entry speed will be had, cheers Andrew. ps any ideas on my issue (the driveline one) lol.
Not to sure on the cause of the issue, i would say make sure the front is central and correct tensions. I’ll have a look at mine tomo and see if it rubs. I know its close. But ive never given it a second thought. Untill now 😂
The thicker belt / pulley of the pro transmission rubs on the under-tray when you pinch up the 4 front gearbox nyloc nuts. I have the alloy front gearbox housings and it still does this. You could cut a hole in the undertray where the belt makes contact (this way the bumper serves to keep out the dirt) or you could add some washers between the chassis and undertray on the 4 front bolts. This leaves a slight gap for dirt to get in. Not a big deal if you’re on carpet.
@@Timson254 Thank you for replying, spot on with this, after running alipo through her the undertray was clearly marked by the pulley, I opted to cut the area away, next time i may try the washer trick, thanks for this suggestion. cheers and best wishes.
Hi, nope. A fullsize servo will fit. Some have the wite exit right where the post is, you can either remove a little bit, or remove the post compleatly. Took me a while to get used to modern electrics. But its so much better than the old nicads and brushed motors 😂
Please help: Unless I leave the 4 long thru-bolts in the front bulkhead very loose, the transmission will not roll easily. My belt tensions are not too tight. Thanks I’m advance!
@@lo2713 - Yea, it's not the best. Nothing appears to be binding. I just ruined to body too because the Schumacher lexan cannot handle the Tamiya paint remover - and I only used a dab of it on a cotton swab.
@@bharris0128 i would take it back to the stage its fitted, its a pain but somethings amiss 🤔 they cant be rushed the procat . Its a car built many times, but still take my time with 🤞
You need to ream a hole for it to stick out, i remove the shocks to do the final trim of the body, then fit the rear up 1st then the front. If there is any snagging i trim it a little each time, you can take more off, but cant put it back.
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I just built the Cougar Classic and it was a lot different from what I am used to but it was fun. I was prepared for the driveshafts and the shocks which went together well. I was not prepared for the frustrating rubber band wing mount!! LOL!! My blunt little sausage fingers struggled with that for a while!! LOL!!
Yeah, thats a right faff, the cougar 2 has a system like it aswell. But so much easyer to do. I switch them out for fixed mounts now 😂
I found the driveshafts easy enough to do by hand, I'd brought the circlip beforehand for the shocks which made it easy but like you said the wing mount rubber bands were real frustrating. 1 broke after 3 runs too
Circlip pliers that is 🤣🤣
@@richwrag3308 you’ll have all you mates getting you to build them now 😂
Wow nice and very nice 👍👍
Thanks for a great video , lots of useful tips to help the build
Cheers, next procat update will be what ive needed to change, its started allready 😂
Very nice build and a fantastic watch - thank u 🙏 👍
Thank you, after running it, ive made some changes, will be doing an update 👍
You can recognise an Schumacher driver by the scsrs on his hands 😂
😂so true lol
I have a pro cat on way, just built my cougar. I love the old Schumacher cars. Way out of my reach as a kid in the 80s
nice kit and great build my friend
Cheers, i love building these things now. But still prefer building the cougar 😁
Look forward to seeing it running👌
Me to 😂 hopefully running this weekend 🤞
Beautiful Richard! Nice demo of building the universal shafts matey! Wish I had seen that last year 😂
😂 yeah, i wish i had this built when it came out. But been busy at work 😭 but gotta pay them bills. Hopefully those still to build them will find it helpfull ?
Great video! What pinion did you use with your set up?
Depends on the track, anything from a 20 upto 25. I’ll start at 22 and check the motor temp. But small twisty tracks i’ll be starting at 20 and gear up if it needs more top end.
Great stuff Richard, So my problem, with the pro transmission belt fitted i get the slightest of binding gradually on/off as a chassis nothing fitted not even outer drive shafts (Cat stripped and rebuilt without undertray and gearbox cover as to see what's going on, also front end sandwich tested to make sure nothings binding and things that slide do, i haven't been able to get to bottom of it since boxing day (bearing in mind it is very slight, but shouldn't be there, i do plan to track her) now what i'm thinking it's that alloy front end that's needed, the front belt adjuster is not man enough to influence the beast of the pro-transmisson belt.(suprised me how thick it was- i'm only used to the original) as the only thing i've witnessed when testing is the main belt moved slightly to the right, not to fully rub on the large o ring but certainly off center. Also the few build videos here on you tube i've seen all use the alloy front end upgrades, anyway it has me scratching my head,...that's why the Cougar has raced ahead,.. and me screw cannot go back lol!!! Thanks for the heads up on the wider steering rack, i'll add that to me wishlist,..the one with the out of stock teflon thingys (out since nov lol) As for front one ways, i love em had em in a couple of Yokomos really livened em up infield on the twisty stuff, turning in off throttle allows the outer front wheel to over rotate (why high traction surfaces need) higher entry speed will be had, cheers Andrew. ps any ideas on my issue (the driveline one) lol.
Not to sure on the cause of the issue, i would say make sure the front is central and correct tensions. I’ll have a look at mine tomo and see if it rubs. I know its close. But ive never given it a second thought. Untill now 😂
The thicker belt / pulley of the pro transmission rubs on the under-tray when you pinch up the 4 front gearbox nyloc nuts. I have the alloy front gearbox housings and it still does this.
You could cut a hole in the undertray where the belt makes contact (this way the bumper serves to keep out the dirt) or you could add some washers between the chassis and undertray on the 4 front bolts. This leaves a slight gap for dirt to get in. Not a big deal if you’re on carpet.
@@Timson254 Thank you for replying, spot on with this, after running alipo through her the undertray was clearly marked by the pulley, I opted to cut the area away, next time i may try the washer trick, thanks for this suggestion. cheers and best wishes.
Great video... I'm rebuilding my 30+ year old procat! Do you have to use a low profile servo?! I'm bit out of date with the new electrics!
Hi, nope. A fullsize servo will fit. Some have the wite exit right where the post is, you can either remove a little bit, or remove the post compleatly. Took me a while to get used to modern electrics. But its so much better than the old nicads and brushed motors 😂
I wont miss nicads! cheers@@lo2713
Looks too be a great car! Where did you get the one way drive shafts from? Thanks
James hodgson does them, if you go on the true vintage schumacher group on facebook, you should find him 👍 if not let me know
Where does James Hodgson sell the drive shafts? or are they longer available?
He has them ebay normally, or on “true vintage schumacher” on facebook. If your struggling to find him, give a shout 👍
Nice build Richard. You make building the UJ’s look easy. Are you running JC wheels? Look to be 2wd fronts?
Yeah, pinched them off my cougar, all my wheels are in my van, to cold to go out and get them 😂 suppose ive built enough of them its easy now ?
Please help: Unless I leave the 4 long thru-bolts in the front bulkhead very loose, the transmission will not roll easily. My belt tensions are not too tight. Thanks I’m advance!
Is the bar used to tension the the front diff slack, its not the best to be honest, allso check the chassis or top plate aint fowling the diff ?
@@lo2713 - Yea, it's not the best. Nothing appears to be binding. I just ruined to body too because the Schumacher lexan cannot handle the Tamiya paint remover - and I only used a dab of it on a cotton swab.
@@bharris0128 i would take it back to the stage its fitted, its a pain but somethings amiss 🤔 they cant be rushed the procat . Its a car built many times, but still take my time with 🤞
Music does put me off tbh
Yeah, was ment to mute when im talking 🤔 still getting to grips with all this editing. But cheers for the feedback, it helps me out a lot 👍
How did u get the body on with the pro transmission? The slipper nut sticks out and the rear is so tight ?
You need to ream a hole for it to stick out, i remove the shocks to do the final trim of the body, then fit the rear up 1st then the front. If there is any snagging i trim it a little each time, you can take more off, but cant put it back.
Where do you find the layshaft bearing holders? Couldn’t understand the name in the video and or where you get the . Thanks
facebook.com/profile.php?id=100063591803323 have a look and see if this link works ?