I recently started exploring an RB67 that was handed down to me by my late uncle, and I’ve really been enjoying the quality it produces, especially for portrait
I've recently learned how to use incidence light metering, for shots where I'm not trying meter for highlights or shadows more specfically, and I'm LOVING the results! I don't see very many film photographers on RUclips talking about it though :(
I see some YT photographers use incident metering now and then, mostly in the studio or for portrait work, sometimes even for landscape. Gives the most natural results on slide film (because of the inherent working principle), and the sunny 16 rule works basically the same. There's not much to it, so maybe film photography YTs don't think there's much to talk about (or think their audience might be bored with technicalities ;-)). (It was and still is used in studio photography; or on film sets to see how many light comes in from different directions, and where to place additional lamps or scrims etc. - maybe those are the videos you're looking for if you want to learn more.)
I shoot using incidence lighting for portraits with my sekonic. I think it's the best means to go about it. Perhaps I'll make a video using my sekonic when taking portraits and explain my thought process for metering! Would that be of interest, you think?
Yeah, I can't see myself using that type of metering on a subject that I can't approach, like landscapes and what not! Perhaps a portrait metering video is necessary!
@@c.augustin Eh, yeah perhaps in broad daylight. But so many of my scenes I'll take, I'm covered in shadows cast by mountains, and shooting a bright, pointed, morning light. Would be tough to shoot it without a spot meter
I thought about such a meter (there's another, even smaller one from AstrHori), but in the end I appreciate the versatility of my small Sekonic L-208 Twinmate, which is quite affordable - and also comes with a (detachable) hot-shoe mount. I like the analog reading (different speed/aperture readings on a glance), and that it can do incident metering if I feel like it. Has a modern silicon cell for metering, other than its older, much larger and more expensive sibling, the L-398A Studio de Luxe, which uses a selenium cell (and should be kept in the dark for longevity when not in use) and is best at incident metering, not so much for object metering. (I forgot to mention that I find the small numbers on the AstrHori quite challenging.)
i got the TTArtisan one and i Love it. even if it’s in my pocket and i whip it out, click the settings in, and then punch it into a camera it’s fantastic
@@metalfingersfilm yes good result and above all we can go up to f1024, i can used with my pinhole camera, this is why I bought this one Now their is an update with the Lime II
I think these new small meters are very good to have. They are pretty much a new incarnation of a meter type that has been around a long time. But, since they are current manufacture, they should still work. And fewer of the 50s and 60s era meters are functional. So they definitely fill a need. In fact, I want to replace my old Gossen Pilot meter so this one is on my "to buy" list. I have more expensive and more capable meters but I don't need those advanced abilities very often. That I can just put this little thing into the hot/cold shoe on any of my cameras makes it very handy. All that said, I will always suggest to people that they get a "Black Cat Exposure Guide". These are about $20 US and are a cardstock calculator that covers a very wide variety of possible scenarios and, with use, will effectively train a photographer to recognize what many various kinds of light looks like and how they can set their camera to suit that. Basically a well thought out, written down, and very detailed guide to Sunny 16. Use that for a while, and then adding a decent meter and missed exposures become much less likely I think. A little meter like this Astrhori is good because it can just live in the hot shoe and not be one more thing that we have to juggle while also making good photos. Some great photos and a good overview, thanks for sharing this!
ive been trying to meter by eye, my rule usually is to have my aperture at f/8 and my shutter speed at either 1/125 or 1/250 - i usually shoot 200 or 400iso film, the results are pretty good :) but i do have a light meter app as awell as the TTArtisian light meter
Meters: I use Gossen meters overall & Minolta Flash Meter. The little Voigtlander VC-II mini is same profile as that 1 & is every bit reliable as any good in camera CDC cell of u know how to aim. It’s equivalent to a 70mm angle of view reflective. Use a gray card and it’s spot on. Additionally, I will even use the Nikon in camera Matrix & Spot w/ 70mm lens & it feels like a 1° spot
Link to the light meter w/ discount code! bit.ly/49hhOOI
I recently started exploring an RB67 that was handed down to me by my late uncle, and I’ve really been enjoying the quality it produces, especially for portrait
What a cool Uncle! Was he a professional photographer?
Yeah he was, and i got all of his gear! including 3 Kowa SIX bodies, , a Keiv 88, and a couple point and shoots . Insane. @ingersfilm
I've recently learned how to use incidence light metering, for shots where I'm not trying meter for highlights or shadows more specfically, and I'm LOVING the results! I don't see very many film photographers on RUclips talking about it though :(
I see some YT photographers use incident metering now and then, mostly in the studio or for portrait work, sometimes even for landscape. Gives the most natural results on slide film (because of the inherent working principle), and the sunny 16 rule works basically the same. There's not much to it, so maybe film photography YTs don't think there's much to talk about (or think their audience might be bored with technicalities ;-)). (It was and still is used in studio photography; or on film sets to see how many light comes in from different directions, and where to place additional lamps or scrims etc. - maybe those are the videos you're looking for if you want to learn more.)
I shoot using incidence lighting for portraits with my sekonic. I think it's the best means to go about it. Perhaps I'll make a video using my sekonic when taking portraits and explain my thought process for metering! Would that be of interest, you think?
Yeah, I can't see myself using that type of metering on a subject that I can't approach, like landscapes and what not! Perhaps a portrait metering video is necessary!
@@metalfingersfilm Using incident metering for landscape is actually applicable - not so much for woodland … ;-)
@@c.augustin Eh, yeah perhaps in broad daylight. But so many of my scenes I'll take, I'm covered in shadows cast by mountains, and shooting a bright, pointed, morning light. Would be tough to shoot it without a spot meter
I thought about such a meter (there's another, even smaller one from AstrHori), but in the end I appreciate the versatility of my small Sekonic L-208 Twinmate, which is quite affordable - and also comes with a (detachable) hot-shoe mount. I like the analog reading (different speed/aperture readings on a glance), and that it can do incident metering if I feel like it. Has a modern silicon cell for metering, other than its older, much larger and more expensive sibling, the L-398A Studio de Luxe, which uses a selenium cell (and should be kept in the dark for longevity when not in use) and is best at incident metering, not so much for object metering. (I forgot to mention that I find the small numbers on the AstrHori quite challenging.)
I've heard good things about them! Seems like the difference between if you prefer a digital or more "analog" metering experience!
I've used my sekonic 358 for tricky scenes.
Lately, I've been spot metering with my F6 and loving the results.
That light meter is a beast!
The Astr-Hori's shoe mount can be unscrewed & shifted left/right eg for fitting to cameras with different deck layouts.
Have you ever used any of the Reveni Labs meters? The spot or incident. I use the spot meter for both my rb67 and my F2 and it works well.
I haven't! It looks pretty sweet, but quite expensive for seemingly a 3D printed piece of equipment.
i got the TTArtisan one and i Love it. even if it’s in my pocket and i whip it out, click the settings in, and then punch it into a camera it’s fantastic
That’s a great light meter, but I find it strange that it has iso up to 3200 but in stops metering in any low light situation
I bought one of those and it was beautiful and joyful to use and between 3 to 6 stops off-inaccurate as well! TRASH
@@user-co6ww2cm9k mine works well, I have second version, maybe that’s a problem, or you metering wrong
Yeah that seems to be the most popular one, but I've seen so many mixed reviews on it, tbh! You obviously love it?
Yeah that is strange..
Do you have any video talking more about your use of the Sekonic meter?
negative but am planning a light metering video this spring once I'm out West in the Rockies, showing how to meter more complicated, dynamic scenes.
I use Lime One from Hedeco, very small and do the job
I've never heard of this before, but it looks solid! You've had good results?
@@metalfingersfilm yes good result and above all we can go up to f1024, i can used with my pinhole camera, this is why I bought this one
Now their is an update with the Lime II
I think these new small meters are very good to have. They are pretty much a new incarnation of a meter type that has been around a long time. But, since they are current manufacture, they should still work. And fewer of the 50s and 60s era meters are functional. So they definitely fill a need.
In fact, I want to replace my old Gossen Pilot meter so this one is on my "to buy" list.
I have more expensive and more capable meters but I don't need those advanced abilities very often. That I can just put this little thing into the hot/cold shoe on any of my cameras makes it very handy.
All that said, I will always suggest to people that they get a "Black Cat Exposure Guide". These are about $20 US and are a cardstock calculator that covers a very wide variety of possible scenarios and, with use, will effectively train a photographer to recognize what many various kinds of light looks like and how they can set their camera to suit that. Basically a well thought out, written down, and very detailed guide to Sunny 16. Use that for a while, and then adding a decent meter and missed exposures become much less likely I think.
A little meter like this Astrhori is good because it can just live in the hot shoe and not be one more thing that we have to juggle while also making good photos.
Some great photos and a good overview, thanks for sharing this!
Oh cool sounds like a really legitimate process. Maybe I'll buy the book and translate it's lessons into a video!
ive been trying to meter by eye, my rule usually is to have my aperture at f/8 and my shutter speed at either 1/125 or 1/250 - i usually shoot 200 or 400iso film, the results are pretty good :) but i do have a light meter app as awell as the TTArtisian light meter
My buddy can meter almost any scene by eye, which is super impressive. I'm too nervous and have to be checking my exposure, hahaha
Meters: I use Gossen meters overall & Minolta Flash Meter. The little Voigtlander VC-II mini is same profile as that 1 & is every bit reliable as any good in camera CDC cell of u know how to aim. It’s equivalent to a 70mm angle of view reflective. Use a gray card and it’s spot on.
Additionally, I will even use the Nikon in camera Matrix & Spot w/ 70mm lens & it feels like a 1° spot
what lens are you using with that RB?
90mm!
As Americans we will use anything but the metric system to measure the size of things. The light meter looks to be the size of a "fun size" candy bar.
Haha that's a good measurement. Fun-sized candy bar!
6:05 killer scream!
me and my homies love small light meters
faxxx
Great video man!
iPhone mic is such a good shout for out in the field, gonna have to try that haha
Thanks dog! Honestly the first time I had used it, and it was pretty windy! Pretty impressed with the results, haha
Do you also use a phone app for light metering?
It would not be necessary unless you really want to play cell phone
I do a lot still too, but for more dynamic scenes, I've noticed the apps struggle quite a bit!
I would’ve said it’s about the size of an average Lego 😊
Not bad at all for 80 bucks.
My same thought process! Not bad considering it can be thrown on any camera!
Anyone else using your phone?
I do a lot still too, but for more dynamic scenes, I've noticed the apps struggle quite a bit!
So tiny!
So small! Thanks for watching, homie!
use your smartphone in place of the exposure meter🤦🤦🤦
not accurate!
Yeah phone meterings are fine but more dynamic scenes, they can realllllly struggle!
Honestly I use film cameras for the exact purpose of not having to look at screens in my free time