good job, I'm 68 and I learned how to lap valves in my early 20's. no drill but a wooden tool with suction end, sill in good condition today. tools can last a lifetime, if you can remember where you put them!
i hope your customer appreciates the attention you are paying to detail and how much hard work is involved and if he keep it regularly maintained and does his regular fluid checks will be many years and you will be old and gray when he returns for a rebuild
Holly shit that tool is amazing. All the years of rolling the dam wooden tool in my hands, the blisters and pain. Gone!!!!! I'd pay $200 for a tool like that
Nice job I built mine with love as well did everything you did , I used old school handheld suction cup / wooden doll. From the crankshaft up took a month but it worked great used IMS solution oil fed bearing as well.
I think you'll want the Nov 23rd video "More BIG Problems With The Red Porsche 996 ..." that's the video where it looked like the 911 ate too much Taco Bell.
I like most of your info,... BUT Please buy yourself a Sioux Hard seat and valve grinding machine! They can be picked up for 400 bucks! Which is 10000 times better than what you are doing there which frankly is caveman. They do such a good job they will seal without spring pressure! Plus you can move the seat up and dwn the valve, plus narrow it or widen it if you like. You will be amazed and get purrfect results without the farmer stuff
Question How dose one do Magnaflux Aluminum heads that is one interesting magnet that dose that interesting Video that surface needs to be done AGEAN i would not use that its your car and your possible loss thank you for the Video
IMHO, valves shouldn't be lapped, you're making the surfaces concaved, and when everything heats up, they won't seal as well. Also the width of the interface on the 45 cut is important. I would have checked interference with Prussian blue and runout and just reassembled if everything was kosher. Flame suit on.
No lol thats not the way it works at all, i am just cleaning up the surfaces , if i was grinding for 15 min on each of them then yes maybe but that is not what is going on here
@@NathansPorscheWorkshop I really can't tell how long you lapped the valve, so my apologies. It's been my personal experience that I've only achieved reliable cylinder sealing with a good valve job, and that lapping was unreliable for a variety of reasons. Cheers.
@@NathansPorscheWorkshop LH's assertion is actually backed up by a lot of very experienced engine builders and guys who cut valves in the machine shop, whether or not you should lap valves is a frequent debate topic and the whole concave thing has been documented and observed, (the abrasive paste tends to sit in the middle of the surface and grind it out faster than the edges where the paste squeezes out). So, the consensus seems to be a light abrasive with light pressure for a limited amount of time so that you are more or less giving a quick polish to the surfaces, which is why I said your drill tool sucks (you can't control the pressure or speed and it needs to be very light).
Well , to be Honest , the tool is not so bad, just gotta watch the pressure youre putting on it. Just like to mention though, that i would always use a compound with bigger grinding partickles and then the finer partickel one . The results are phenomenal ! But yes its a extra effort 😅 But in the end of the day , it pays off ! Compression wise 🎉
good job, I'm 68 and I learned how to lap valves in my early 20's. no drill but a wooden tool with suction end, sill in good condition today. tools can last a lifetime, if you can remember where you put them!
Well, Nathan sold out BMW for Porsche and is now exercising and looking leaner. Good for him.
i hope your customer appreciates the attention you are paying to detail and how much hard work is involved and if he keep it regularly maintained and does his regular fluid checks will be many years and you will be old and gray when he returns for a rebuild
Holly shit that tool is amazing. All the years of rolling the dam wooden tool in my hands, the blisters and pain. Gone!!!!! I'd pay $200 for a tool like that
Just a observation
Valve guide condition viewers may not know procedure and have oil issues later . Now is a time to insure proper clearances .👍
Nice job I built mine with love as well did everything you did , I used old school handheld suction cup / wooden doll. From the crankshaft up took a month but it worked great used IMS solution oil fed bearing as well.
Enjoyed enjoyed.. like the Good Ole'days..
Great video! Thanks.
When you got the head machined why have you not got the valves and seats recut?
Likely didn't need it, and that costs a pretty penny more than just decking a head.
I'm more interested in how much they took off the head(s).
3 angel Valve job who 😂
First is the worst second is the best!
Valve lapping is fun
That was cool! Thanks for the effort. Is the head seal the reason for the oil coolant mix? Can’t seem to find the video that has the reveal.
I think you'll want the Nov 23rd video "More BIG Problems With The Red Porsche 996 ..." that's the video where it looked like the 911 ate too much Taco Bell.
Loose head bolts on the passenger side
Did You figure out why the coolant was mixing with the oil?
The head bolts were loose on the passenger side
Where is Phillip when you need him on camera! Great instructional videa but I miss Mr. Cameraman!
I like most of your info,...
BUT
Please buy yourself a Sioux Hard seat and valve grinding machine!
They can be picked up for 400 bucks!
Which is 10000 times better than what you are doing there which frankly is caveman.
They do such a good job they will seal without spring pressure!
Plus you can move the seat up and dwn the valve, plus narrow it or widen it if you like.
You will be amazed and get purrfect results without the farmer stuff
is it common for a machine shop to machine the heads and not clean them?
I was surprised they weren't "hot tanked" as well. (AL safe fluid, obvs)
Totally Cool!
Question How dose one do Magnaflux Aluminum heads that is one interesting magnet that dose that interesting Video that surface needs to be done AGEAN i would not use that its your car and your possible loss thank you for the Video
Now I am scared...
IMHO, valves shouldn't be lapped, you're making the surfaces concaved, and when everything heats up, they won't seal as well. Also the width of the interface on the 45 cut is important.
I would have checked interference with Prussian blue and runout and just reassembled if everything was kosher.
Flame suit on.
No lol thats not the way it works at all, i am just cleaning up the surfaces , if i was grinding for 15 min on each of them then yes maybe but that is not what is going on here
@@NathansPorscheWorkshop I really can't tell how long you lapped the valve, so my apologies. It's been my personal experience that I've only achieved reliable cylinder sealing with a good valve job, and that lapping was unreliable for a variety of reasons. Cheers.
@@NathansPorscheWorkshop LH's assertion is actually backed up by a lot of very experienced engine builders and guys who cut valves in the machine shop, whether or not you should lap valves is a frequent debate topic and the whole concave thing has been documented and observed, (the abrasive paste tends to sit in the middle of the surface and grind it out faster than the edges where the paste squeezes out). So, the consensus seems to be a light abrasive with light pressure for a limited amount of time so that you are more or less giving a quick polish to the surfaces, which is why I said your drill tool sucks (you can't control the pressure or speed and it needs to be very light).
FIRST!!!
that drill tool is worthless, just do it by hand....
Um no...
Well , to be Honest , the tool is not so bad, just gotta watch the pressure youre putting on it.
Just like to mention though, that i would always use a compound with bigger grinding partickles and then the finer partickel one .
The results are phenomenal !
But yes its a extra effort 😅
But in the end of the day , it pays off !
Compression wise 🎉