GE E-Z Merc 160watt Self Ballasted Mercury Vapor Light Bulb
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 июн 2024
- General Electric E-Z MERC 160 watt Self Ballasted Mercury Vapor Light Bulb
Follow me on other Social Media!
My second channel: / mercovay
Instagram: / parrot175
Twitter: / parrot175
Twitch: / parrot175
If you have any questions just ask! Also Please Comment, Rate and Subscribe! Thank You! - Наука
I love mercury vapor!
Me too!
In the early '80s, my high school replaced 150 watt incandescent A23s in our gym with these. These were in flat recessed square fixtures with prismatic glass covers. It made the gym a lot brighter and reduced maintenance costs for a while.
I spent a summer studying in Spain and the classrooms for full of self- ballasted mercury lamps. Always interesting how they started with a typical incandescent glow and gradually transitioned to bluish white.
What a beautiful old bulb!
New LED x Paseo de Cumbres
Self ballasted MV bulbs are position-sensitive, you need to run it base up or base down or they may not work properly.
Wow, the shape is very awesome ! It looks regular except its like a incandescent light. Thats so cool plus that its self ballasted.
I always thought the videos were filmed on a blanket at the edge of your bed lol that was a surprise!
Indeed, the old videos were filmed on a blanket at the edge of the bed but now the new videos are filmed on the workbench!
The 'i' in Iwasaki is pronounced like the 'ee' in cheese and the syllables are all equally weighted. Say it 'ee wa sa kee.' And yes, this does look like an Iwasaki lamp.
Self balllasted lamps are very cool. In theory with few exceptions any arc lamp (fluorescent, mercury vapor, metal halide and high pressure sodium) can have an incandescent bulb as a ballast along with voltage supply high enough to strike the arc. High pressure sodium and the newer pulse start metal halide probably is impractical to try this with because of the 2,500 to 4000 volts required for ignition, but mercury vapor and probe start metal halide should be able to run with an incandescent bulb very close to the lamp wattage, when higher voltage is used, such as 240 or 277. In some cases fluorescent lamps can be run on DC with a standard preheat ballast/starter, and an incandescent in series with the ballast (eg. a 15 watt incandescent used with an F15T8 fluorescent) The starter opening produces a collapsing magnetic field much like a pre-1970s car with a breaker point ignition system, and strikes the lamp. A fluorescent tube run with DC can accumulate mercury towards on end and should have the polarity reversed at each start up to combat this effect. Lamp efficiency and life suffers, but it can be done and is a pretty cool experiment for those fortunate to get their hands in some preheat ballasts of 15 or 20 watts.
I'm a lighting collector in the UK and wondered if I could run Low Pressure Sodium (SOX) lamps off an incandescent bulb? It should work for high pressure sodium, metal halide, etc.
The OLD and Incandescent lamps here are 240V
The F14T12 lamp was originally designed to be used on 64V DC train car supplies, thus its very low arc potential of 41V. It's aspect ratio is low enough that the mercury diffuses back to the rest of the tube faster than the DC electric field can move it to the cathode.
@@randacnam7321oh very interesting history there. I think the only time I've seen a F14T12 lamp in use was on a very old desk lamp my grandmother had dating to perhaps the 40s or 50s.
Yes s a nice older GE self ballasted mercury vapour bulb there & Yes I have a newer EYE brand mercury vapour bulb! 🙂👍 Yes I use mine at camp in a portable yard light rig! 🙂👍
To examine the inside of frosted or otherwise opaque bulbs, you need a point source. The light on a camera phone works well.
Tip: get a phone flash, use it as a flashlight and press it up against the glass. it will cast a beautiful shadow of the arc tube onto the glass cuz the phone light is a point light the shadow will be very clear
What an unusual and yet hindsight-obvious light bulb. Why wasn't that more common in the incandescent era? Probably too expensive to be appealing to mass market.
Luminous efficacy, especially for 120V lamps.
They were intended only as a retrofit for existing incandescent fixtures/bulbs without having to incur the cost of replacing the fixture. It took me a while to figure out (as a kid) what they were and how they worked.
@@randacnam7321they had roughly the same efficiency as incandescent lamps, so they served no real purpose other than make the area appear brighter than it actually was, much like a 250 watt metal halide fixture operating next to a 250 watt high pressure sodium. The 750 watt self ballasted mercury vapor in my 2006 GE lamp catalog had a mean lumen output of 11,200, which comes out to 15 lumens per watt, slightly lower than some incandescents and halogens. It's kind of ludicrous these were available until at least 2006.
@@Sparky-ww5re Their purpose is their service life is a LOT longer than incandescent lamps.
I love dark arc😋
Cool bulb! Speaking of cool bulbs, I semi-recently procured some interesting bulbs. One is a Philips Mercury Lo-Volt USAVC9-1, presumably 140 watts. The other is a Mercury Lamp 80w Japan HF80PD, which appears to be an Eye product. Do you have any interesting info on them?
The V isn't a V, but the factory code symbol Philips used for the Bath, NY lampworks. Iffen you look closely, it will look like a ▽ with an extra vertical line in it. The C9 is the date code (March 1989). Philips Lo-Volt mercury lamps were low discharge potential lamps made for use on 120V with choke ballasts in order to reduce ballast losses relative to the high leakage reactance or constant power autotransformer ballasts used to drive standard 175W H39 mercury lamps on 120V.
The 80W lamp is just a standard but well made Iwasaki mercury lamp, just not of a common power rating on this side of the pond. They will run on H43 75W mercury lamp ballasts, but H95 ballasts were made for them. These ballasts are bloody rare, and the only one I have came in a Regent floodlight. Instant start electronic F72T12/HO ballasts will work to drive them. You could also try an 80W tanning bed lamp ballast on 220V to 240V, but check to make sure the lamp is drawing ~800mA. The 80W merc has very similar electrical characteristics to 80W tanning bed lamps.
Amazing and very cool looking bulb, any guess on the age?? I'm guessing 1980s???
Hey friend, would you know if there is an HPS lamp with this same bulb format and coated? If yes, do you own any?
I don't think there's a HPS lamp like this on the market, I unfortunately don't have one.
@@Parrot175 I saw photos of a 50w HPS lamp produced by GE, and another 35w whose manufacturer I don't remember, produced with the A23 bulb, but without coating, but I am curious to see a lamp like that with the coated bulb.
160w 120v e26-160w 220v e27
Try to run it without the glass envelope on it
the filament would just burn up
Yeah, that doesn't look like a GE base, at all.