That's a T-104 timer, 240 volts, which requires two hot wires, the black and presumably the red, in order to spin the timer. The white wires from the timer connect to terminal #1 and #3. Nothing connects to the "A" terminal unless you're wiring for 277/480 volts (commercial). You should connect a ground wire to the ground screw on the timer plate so someone is less likely to electrocute you with the way they incorrectly wired your timer.
That’s a 240v timer. A 115v timer will only have 3 brass terminals. You need 240 at that box to run the mechanism timer. You’ll know it’s working because the gears behind that viewing hole will be turning. If they aren’t moving, the mech has failed or power isn’t getting to the timer itself
If your pool pump runs on only 120v circuit, than you only need a T101R SPST timer which controls the hot leg only on a 120v circuit. This timer T104R is for 240v DPST circuits only.
The red wire is an other Circuit he brought two circuits into the timer so that means the plug the top half is probably controlled by the red wire constant power.It looks like it’s wired right check your switch on the timer the Silver switch make sure it is on the on position
Your 2 white wires coming from the timer should be fed from line #1 terminal and line#3 terminal, the clock needs 240v to operate. Your 2 load lines, one black one red, should go on, one load # 2 terminal and one on load #4 terminal. #1 terminal, should receive one line side conductor black and #3 terminal should receive the other line side conductor red. Now the timer should operate correctly. The receptacle that is going to receive the plug from the pool pump should be changed out to a 20amp 240 volt receptacle. The current receptacle is incorrect, it is only a 120v receptacle. Also there is no need to send a neutral wire to the pool receptacle, it only needs one ground wire and 2 - 120volt each, conductors.
The A terminal should have no wires connected to it. Your should ground the plate through the green screw on the front of the plate for safety. The plate as it stands is not a good solid connection to the ground system.
i;m having a problem with my 7 day intermatic model T7401B timer switch the load side will not shut off with the timer switch itself here's my wiring install clock A white going to the clock motor and neutual white wire on the line side. 1 line 1 black wire from the 3 way plug that plugs into the wall line 1. 2 load 1black wire from the recepticle side that u plug in a light stereo clock B a motor lead wire and another neutural from the load side if anyone out there knows how i can fix this please let me know thanx and good day
I believe that the jumper on the receptacle has been removed. The top half of the receptacle is black wired, and controlled by the timer, and the bottom half is hot all the time, being energized by the red wire.
I think your wiring is wrong. I have a timer just like this, and my wiring diagram matches the one you have in the printed material in the cover. The far right terminal isn't a line terminal. That's a load terminal. The one next to it is one of the line terminals. The one after that (3rd from the right), is the other load terminal, and the next one (4th from right) is the other line terminal. The two line terminals get 120V AC, 180 degrees out of phase (for a total of 220). The two white wires from the timer clock go to the two line terminals. It's a 220v timer clock. Your wiring doesn't even connect up one of the line and one of the load terminals, so there is no way that timer would even turn on. The manual switch works because it looks like one of your hot lines goes straight to the outlet (the red one). The other one gets switched in when the lines and loads are connected in the switch "on" position. It doesn't look good. I wouldn't know for sure what the whole story was unless I knew what kind of pump you have, but that looks like a 120v plug to me. It's never good to route 220 to a 120v plug. I don't know how that outlet is wired or what the pump requirements are, but I know it doesn't match the wiring instructions for the timer. I have no connections at all on that far left terminal (No common). Your green grounds look fine. It probably isn't necessary to ground the face plate because it's seated in the box snugly which is grounded very well. I have a timer like this that stopped working after working reliably for decades. I'll be posting a video on how to fix it with a new timer motor. I hope that helps. You may have already solved your problem by now. :)
Thanks for your time and all the info! I'm going to be opening my pool soon so I'll post an update on the wiring situation. FWIW, my pump is a 1HP Hayward PowerFlo Matrix Series Pump - 115 volts. I'll get back to you one what I've found out. The plug is a standard 120v outdoor receptacle. I have a 30amp breaker with GFCI. I also have an inline rocker switch (outdoor light switch inside a weatherproof box) on the side of the house so I can isolate the pool from electricity if I need to. My pool is completely surrounded and bonded with buried #8 copper wiring at 4 different connection points to the pool metal support frame. There's also an inline Perma-Cast PB2008 Water Bonding Fitting that actually bonds through the 2" PVC (pool skimmer to pump) and bonds the water flow. Now if I can only get the wiring right! Follow up later this spring.
I had the same problem with my both of my T104's. Contacted the company and they told me I could buy 2 new motors from amazon, for about 20 dollars each. Bought the motors, replaced them and still the timers did not move. Contacted amazon requested a refund, the company that sold me the new motors asked why I wanted a refund, I told them that neither of them worked, even thought they were apparently new. They said that they would authorize the refund and I asked for their address so I could return the motors I purchased to them. They responded never mind just keep them. You see.., even they did not want the motors back. I will never purchase an intermatic timer again, they are junk, albeit expensive junk.
After quite a few years and extremely safisfied wih this timer, all of a sudden the darn thing stopped rotating. I assume the motor is at fault, but I'd rather buy another new one.
That's a T-104 timer, 240 volts, which requires two hot wires, the black and presumably the red, in order to spin the timer. The white wires from the timer connect to terminal #1 and #3. Nothing connects to the "A" terminal unless you're wiring for 277/480 volts (commercial). You should connect a ground wire to the ground screw on the timer plate so someone is less likely to electrocute you with the way they incorrectly wired your timer.
That’s a 240v timer. A 115v timer will only have 3 brass terminals. You need 240 at that box to run the mechanism timer. You’ll know it’s working because the gears behind that viewing hole will be turning. If they aren’t moving, the mech has failed or power isn’t getting to the timer itself
If your pool pump runs on only 120v circuit, than you only need a T101R SPST timer which controls the hot leg only on a 120v circuit. This timer T104R is for 240v DPST circuits only.
The red wire is an other Circuit he brought two circuits into the timer so that means the plug the top half is probably controlled by the red wire constant power.It looks like it’s wired right check your switch on the timer the Silver switch make sure it is on the on position
you are absolutely right !
I think that you have 120v wiring on a 208 v timer
You are correct! I have since changed it out for the correct 120v and it's been working fine. Thanks!!
Your 2 white wires coming from the timer should be fed from line #1 terminal and line#3 terminal, the clock needs 240v to operate. Your 2 load lines, one black one red, should go on, one load # 2 terminal and one on load #4 terminal. #1 terminal, should receive one line side conductor black and #3 terminal should receive the other line side conductor red. Now the timer should operate correctly. The receptacle that is going to receive the plug from the pool pump should be changed out to a 20amp 240 volt receptacle. The current receptacle is incorrect, it is only a 120v receptacle. Also there is no need to send a neutral wire to the pool receptacle, it only needs one ground wire and 2 - 120volt each, conductors.
The A terminal should have no wires connected to it. Your should ground the plate through the green screw on the front of the plate for safety. The plate as it stands is not a good solid connection to the ground system.
i;m having a problem with my 7 day intermatic model T7401B timer switch the load side will not shut off with the timer switch itself here's my wiring install clock A white going to the clock motor and neutual white wire on the line side. 1 line 1 black wire from the 3 way plug that plugs into the wall line 1. 2 load 1black wire from the recepticle side that u plug in a light stereo clock B a motor lead wire and another neutural from the load side if anyone out there knows how i can fix this please let me know thanx and good day
Your pool pump should have a 20amp 240v cord attached to it, not a 120v cord.
I believe that the jumper on the receptacle has been removed. The top half of the receptacle is black wired, and controlled by the timer, and the bottom half is hot all the time, being energized by the red wire.
if u need to get replacement timer motors lowes and homedepot or any electic supply company should carry them and they do
The wiring is not wired right the line goes to terminal one and three and load goes to two and four terminals i know better than that
Is it your Intermatic timer model is T104R 240V? and is your water pump is 240V as well?
I think your wiring is wrong. I have a timer just like this, and my wiring diagram matches the one you have in the printed material in the cover. The far right terminal isn't a line terminal. That's a load terminal. The one next to it is one of the line terminals. The one after that (3rd from the right), is the other load terminal, and the next one (4th from right) is the other line terminal. The two line terminals get 120V AC, 180 degrees out of phase (for a total of 220). The two white wires from the timer clock go to the two line terminals. It's a 220v timer clock. Your wiring doesn't even connect up one of the line and one of the load terminals, so there is no way that timer would even turn on. The manual switch works because it looks like one of your hot lines goes straight to the outlet (the red one). The other one gets switched in when the lines and loads are connected in the switch "on" position. It doesn't look good. I wouldn't know for sure what the whole story was unless I knew what kind of pump you have, but that looks like a 120v plug to me. It's never good to route 220 to a 120v plug. I don't know how that outlet is wired or what the pump requirements are, but I know it doesn't match the wiring instructions for the timer. I have no connections at all on that far left terminal (No common). Your green grounds look fine. It probably isn't necessary to ground the face plate because it's seated in the box snugly which is grounded very well. I have a timer like this that stopped working after working reliably for decades. I'll be posting a video on how to fix it with a new timer motor. I hope that helps. You may have already solved your problem by now. :)
Thanks for your time and all the info! I'm going to be opening my pool soon so I'll post an update on the wiring situation. FWIW, my pump is a 1HP Hayward PowerFlo Matrix Series Pump - 115 volts. I'll get back to you one what I've found out. The plug is a standard 120v outdoor receptacle. I have a 30amp breaker with GFCI. I also have an inline rocker switch (outdoor light switch inside a weatherproof box) on the side of the house so I can isolate the pool from electricity if I need to. My pool is completely surrounded and bonded with buried #8 copper wiring at 4 different connection points to the pool metal support frame. There's also an inline Perma-Cast PB2008 Water Bonding Fitting that actually bonds through the 2" PVC (pool skimmer to pump) and bonds the water flow. Now if I can only get the wiring right! Follow up later this spring.
@@johnnymorettihey Johnny. Did you end up getting the wiring figured out? I'm having the same issue
@@B-TNT check the comments.
You will need to ground the timer plate (The Green screw on the plate itself).
The timer plate needs to be grounded too
Grounded or bonded. ;)
I had the same problem with my both of my T104's. Contacted the company and they told me I could buy 2 new motors from amazon, for about 20 dollars each. Bought the motors, replaced them and still the timers did not move. Contacted amazon requested a refund, the company that sold me the new motors asked why I wanted a refund, I told them that neither of them worked, even thought they were apparently new. They said that they would authorize the refund and I asked for their address so I could return the motors I purchased to them. They responded never mind just keep them. You see.., even they did not want the motors back. I will never purchase an intermatic timer again, they are junk, albeit expensive junk.
After quite a few years and extremely safisfied wih this timer, all of a sudden the darn thing stopped rotating. I assume the motor is at fault, but I'd rather buy another new one.