FIX YOUR TRAILER LIGHTS (3) - How to use a multimeter
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2024
- Learn how to use a multimeter to fix your trailer light problems.
BUY MULTIMETERS - amzn.to/49QPmDA
E-mail KnettersPracticalOutdoors@gmail.com
Knetter's Patreon Page - patreon.com/user?u=87533305
Knetter's Merch - teegora.com/collections/knett... 
Наука
![Sean Rii, Karyon, Sharzkii - Taungule [My Love] (Official Visualizer)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eJoMuypbSzQ/mqdefault.jpg)
TO PURCHASE A MULTIMETER - amzn.to/3VmWcfM
Excellent video series...finally someone able to explain wiring in simple terms. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks dude! After sanding enamel all last night around my trailer's ground connections I used the multimeter today (with the help of this video) at the 4 pin connector and discovered that my ground cable had no continuity and had slid out of a connector. Re-connected all and reset the ground and now I'm good to go. Thanks brother!
Awesome! Thanks for the comment! KPO.
Very helpful tutorial! Much appreciated and love the details. Saved me buying a trailer plug tester
Thank you so much. God bless.
Glad that it helped out, KPO.
Dave,
Just found your site and I love it. Always a problem with trailer lights and I've always been in the dark until now. I have a multimeter but only ever used it to test battery voltage in my equipment. Looking forward to using it for continuity. I also bought a 7 way and 4 pin flat tester off Amazon tonight. I'll stop at this video and see if I can apply what I learned before moving on to your episode 4. Thanks again man, and I LOVE your intro music. Definitely suits the intro video.
Jerry, thanks so much for the kind comment. I hope you have been fixing trailer lights like a pro! KPO.
Again, as always, a quality video!
Thank You
Captain Carpman
You are too kind, KPO.
Great lesson. You got my trailer back on the road. Thanks
You are welcome. Thanks for the feedback, KPO.
Thanks alot man. I had trouble with my boat trailer lights for years. And i watched one of your videos about getting a good ground and i tried it and finally all my lights are working like they should. Thanks again.
You are welcome. Thanks for the feed back, KPO.
Great video and super easy to understand. Thanks Dave. My side markers are dim while all other lights work fine. I can’t wait to check the ground for continuity at the side markers on the boat trailer.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent down to earth explanation! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
You are very knowledgeable and it makes sense.. I don't know where to begin to bringing my trailer up to code and safety.
see other reply
Excellent Videos, finally someone speaking the way I think. Love the white board. Draw me a picture and I can learn well. Thank you Ken
Thanks Ken. The plan is for more trailer light vids to come. Thanks for watching, KPO.
Great series of videos! Thanks!
You are welcome, KPO.
You were very helpful on how to check and to understand how the wiring and the whole system works, THANK YOU! You got a new subscriber!
Awesome, thank you! This video may work for you too ruclips.net/video/Iz1jN3KApns/видео.html
Thanks for your help, its a very good tutorial!
You are welcome, KPO.
This was actually helpful thanks
You are welcome!
Another informative video thanks
Thanks as always Richard, KPO.
Great video. Plain english on what ohms you're looking for to have continuity and as you put it, a good conductor of electricity. This gets you started. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment Knucklehead. I hope it helps, KPO.
Good video. A test light can also be used to troubleshoot wiring problems.
Great point!
My left side lights work some times.
After watching your videos I’m assuming it’s not grounded correctly since it does work occasionally.
I bought a whole light kit but now im thinking because the trailer has been heavily painted that I could just run a white wire from the breaks to the side light back to the plug and fix this whole things for $5.
Also you’re awesome. Will update with success or failure. 😂
Thanks so much!
Hi Dave, just at the end of part three......I'm finding your explanation is brilliant.......and I've always been frustrated with the use of a multi-meter......but you made it totally clear to me how to use it now thank you for that .......I would request one thing from you if at all possible for the series to be made in a way better quality of visual viewing it's a little fuzzy...........I know it's a lot of hard work.......but you truly have a great system with these RUclips vid's..........I'm a little hard of hearing but you are great and I didn't even need to turn my volume to max so thank you for that too....cheers mate.
Thanks for the feed back. I'm always trying to improve the videos.
thanks Dave for a quick response.........sitting here on my last vid of yours lol.........with all my trailer stuff trying out different scenarios ......... a question for you if I may............ truck lights working ok to trailer connection when I connect up to the trailer I put my foot on truck break and lights come on truck ok but lights go out on trailer........???? any thoughts please.........and thank you
the trailer lights are direct to lights from socket not through the frame.......
@@cozydram1 I assume we are talking about the running lights going out when you apply the brake. This sounds like your fixtures on the trailer aren't grounded properly and they may be back feeding through the brake circuit. When you apply the brake, you remove the back feed path. Make sure all the fixtures have a good ground and also that the trailer is grounded good to the truck when connected. That's where I would start.
awesome I'll check that ........totally appreciate your time .......thank you..........have a great weekend.....🤗
thx really useful man!
No problem!
Thanks Dave!
Welcome!
Thank you for your help!!
I finally fixed the stupid Fuc$&#@ trailer... Works great now 😊
Yes! Awesome to hear it! KPO.
What great timing, I had to do a quick fix while traveling and just reconnected the 4 way, however my trailer harness has 7 wires and I have Blue, Red, and black left over and now that I’m home need to figure out which wire is the running lights. Which is normally Brown but that’s not what I have left.
Blue is usually trailer brakes, but the rest I've seen many different combinations. I hate to comment on colors with 7 pin because they seem to vary from manufactures. Sorry I'm not more help, KPO.
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors no I’m right there with ya, I’m gonna give it one more try and if it doesn’t work I’m just gonna take it to someone. It’s just frustrating I’ve worked on aircraft, cars and bikes but this knuckle head has me stumped…
Good Explanation . Throw them incandescent light bulb assemblies away . Modern LED sealed beam assemblies are less troublesome and last a greater length of time .
Yes, I have moved on to LEDS on all my trailers.
It seems that everyone covers the basics on repairing trailer wiring, but one thing I've yet to see covered is voltage drop. Sure , you can get a good resistance or voltage reading on a wire BUT they still might not work once you put a load on the circuit ( light bulb is lit). The most common causes of voltage drops are broken wires in stranded wire or corrosion in the wire or in connections. There are plenty of videos that deal with voltage drop issues that viewers can check out
Yes voltage drop is a common issue. I should cover it in an up coming video. Thanks for the feed back, KPO.
I just purchased a GDT-3190 Gardner-Bender multimeter. I think like the one used on your video. Problem is, it came without instructions on how to install the battery! I know that sounds stupid but to remove the cover on the back I had to snap the cover off! Once that was removed from the unit all I could see was this big red something completely filling the battery compartment, with two tiny screws, I think they were holding it down. 👎to ECM Industries for not supporting their product which I need for my trailer re-wire project.
I think mine is a 3200, rubber cover pulls off, screws on back and battery compartment is at bottom.
Thanks for the videos. Am troubleshooting my trailer now. At 8:07 when you do the zoomed inserts, the image is so grainy it's hard to see what you're demonstrating. Would prefer you get the camera & subject closer for those examples. Also, you are using the battery to demonstrate the 12 volts going through the wiring harness but on a vehicle would you have to have the key in the ignition or truck turned on to get the same flow? Thanks again.
Yes I'm always trying to get better at making these videos. The battery example is just to show how the circuit works but yes, I am by-passing keys on, switches on and relays being activated. Thanks for the feed back, KPO.
Great learning tool video. However how do I use my multimeter for continuity from the plug at the front of the trailer, 14’ back to the tail lights?
Great question. Well you can use a longer piece of wire attached to the meter lead kind of like an extension of the meter lead. Also you can use the trailer frame as an extension of the meter lead by temporarily grounding the wire you're checking to the trailer frame. Then at the other end of the wire check continuity from the wire to trailer frame. If continuity comes and goes as the wire is grounded and ungrounded the wire should be good. Won't work with the white or ground wire itself (because it's already grounded) KPO.
Knetters Practical Outdoors Thanks...I thought I could use the frame but wasn’t sure
great explanation! i think i got it....
Cool, KPO.
I really liked when you were reading continuity on the trailer frame and had one lead in the hand holding the multimeter. Going to tape a lead to mine and loop the slack with a zip tie. Swapping between a unit lead to a length of lead would be necessary in many scenarios. But to have more freedom while sensing would be clever.
Ps never be embarrassed to refresh your knowledge. Just see where you may have gained bad habits along the way and work out getting it right.
Haha have a great day sir!
Thanks for the feedback!
Love your clips. I 'm at a dead end. My running lights do not work (side and end) on my boat trailer. All the other functions are good. I have a 4 pin plug. Using a plug in tester, I've come to the conclusion that the running light connection on my SUV is dead. How & where do I look/test this? Near the car battery? Or simply change the 4 pin plug attached to my vehicle? Thanks
Follow the truck plug back and look and see if it is spliced in or does it have a plug in "T" splice device. Often the problem will be there (corrosion or bad connection) Newer vehicles sometimes have separate towing light fuses. Check the owners manual and check those fuses. Let me know how it goes.
Love the information. I tried two other videos first, but they just used a test light. One question: what voltage are we looking for?
Also, feedback: it seemed there was an awful lot of very basic, off topic, or repetitive information. I found myself fast forwarding through half the video to find the stuff that I needed. Also, as others have said, the intro is very long and seems somewhat irrelevant. I almost didn't watch this video just because of it.
Generally 12 volts is a good reading. I've since shortened the intro. Thanks for the feed back! KPO
I missed something about ohms. When figuring out if a wiring can carry a current successfully is when you use olhm, but give an example of when a wire on a trailer would register a high ohm. Is it when there is a short circuit?
A short length of wire should read near 0 ohms end to end. If a wire reads high ohms on a trailer it is a problem (broken wire, bad splice, poor connection at plug, ect.) A short circuit would read low ohms from the wire to trailer frame. This is a problem if it is any wire other than the ground wire or negative. From end to end a shorted wire may or may not read low ohms. Example - if a wire's insulation is worn through and grounded to the trailer frame, the wire may read fine end to end, but if voltage is applied it may short out and blow fuses. Check out this other video also if you haven't already - ruclips.net/video/Iz1jN3KApns/видео.html I hope this helps, KPO.
How can I use the multimeter to find which wire goes where ?example I bought a trailer that had a 4 wire in one at the trailer hitch with no plug the wire colors are not standard yellow green brown white so I need to find out which wire is left etc.. thanks great channel
This is a great question and I should address it in a future video. But for now you will need to check for continuity. OK, you have your trailer and you have a plug at the hitch and you're not sure which pin is which wire. I will assume the lights aren't working or you probably wouldn't be concerned with this. You may be able to tell which pin is the ground by looking at it. It should be connected to trailer frame pretty close to the plug. Often the ground pin will also look different than the other pins on the plug. Next you may need to disconnect the wires at the light to keep this from getting confusing. So you take one of the wires you disconnected from the light and check if it is grounded (low ohms to trailer frame). If it is grounded it may be your ground. Some fixtures are grounded by wires and some by being bolted to the trailer. If the wire isn't grounded then we will find what pin it goes to. If your meter leads are long enough to go from the plug to the other end of the wire you can put your meter to ohms, one lead on the wire at the light and the other at the plug pins. Check each pin to see which one has continuity to the wire your other lead is on. If your leads aren't long enough, ground or attach the wire at the light to the trailer frame. Now at the plug pins see which pin is grounded. Now you are just using the trailer frame as a temporary meter lead extension. Do this with each wire. Double check by attaching and disconnecting the wire to trailer frame and check that the continuity comes and goes accordingly. This might be a bit much for a reply but like I said I will try to do a vid on this subject also. I hope this helps, KPO.
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors perfect I will get to work thank you very much.....
Have a question all lights working but when i turn my running lights on the left brake light soesnt work and shuts the tail light off now when the running light are off they brake light works just fine this is a stop turn tail light so only red and brown wire checked fuses bulbs grounds and both trailer plug and truck plug all new lights. And another question i have double tandem axles so 4 brakes should they be grounded individually because there all on one wire running to the ground wire which is grounded to the trailer frame
Also it is new wiring the right one works just fine when the running lights are on
When stuff goes off when others get turned on (when they shouldn't) it is almost always a ground problem. Fixtures and even the trailers need to be grounded properly. When strange things happen it is usually one circuit back feeding through another because something isn't grounded properly. Check this video out for more ruclips.net/video/GolYLizOcow/видео.html
I understand your demo but how do you check resistance when the plug is 10 away from the taillight?
To cover the whole length of a trailer you may have to attach a wire electrically to one end and use it like a big jumper. Essentially making one of your lead really long, KPO.
I accidentally cut my 4 pin boat trailer plug mowing. I couldnt find it, but now i see 7 wires. So i bought a replacement 4 pin plug from wally world. Dont know why but i cant get the running lights working. I have white to ground, yellow and green for turn signals. Then i have 2 brown, 2 white with brown stripe. I had both brown from trailer tied together going to the running light wire, but it doesnt work. I tested the light like you explained here and the light works. I cant get to work though from vehicle.
Brown should go to brown on the vehicle, but the white with brown stripe not sure, KPO.
how are you supposed to do this when the multimeter wires are 2 ft long and the trailer is 18ft long? ie measure continuity from one end to the other
Yes, I should have expanded on that. You can just take a piece of wire (check it for good continuity first) and use it as a big jumper. Use smaller alligator clips to attach the wire to the spots you are checking. It's kind of like having longer meter leads.
Didn't know i had to go fishing first.
You don't have to, but adding fishing to anything makes it better, LOL. Thanks for watching, KPO.
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors i know how to fish, i didn't know how to fix my trailer lights and the video didn't help me. But thanks for the video lol.
@@jeffcope7388 This video is very specific to just learning the basics of using a multimeter to troubleshoot trailer lights. If you have a specific problem it might be covered in one of my other trailer light videos, LINK - ruclips.net/p/PLksX0m4wrQHxmTQj8rk3Sazefa3uITFe4 Hopefully one of the videos in this playlist will help, KPO.
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors i found my problem, thanks for trying to help. My trailer tilts and the ground had to be run to the back of the trailer, to make a good ground.
@@jeffcope7388 Glad to hear it, KPO.
Does it matter what size and kind of wire that has the electricity running through it?
see first reply
Спасибо
yes
How do I measure continuity on my trailer when my plug is on the tongue and the light is 20 feet away?
I think you found your answer in the PART 5 video right? You just measure it one short portion at a time, KPO.
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors I see that you can test one portion at a time but is it true you can use a long jumper to test from the plug to the fixture s one people say or does it weaken the signal on the meter?
Nice video....the only issue i got on 7 plug trailer is that every time i pressed the brake pedal my trailer brake lights get dimmer instead of getting brighter...... and when i turn on my head lights on my trailer brake lights are brighter and when i pressed the brake they get dimmer....i don't know if it's a wire issue or ground Any idea
Check all grounds for good connections. Sounds like the circuit is back feeding.
So why do I have turn signals, tail lights but no brake lights? Standard flat for connecter, led lights.
Do the brake lights work on the car? If you have the turn signal on the trailer the wiring should be good for both turn signal and brakes. It's the same wire but the car toggles it for the brake. Let me know what you find, KPO.
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors The fix was a little box called a combiner. The dodge Caravan we were working on has 3 bulbs and circuits in the tail light. This device safely combines the brake light and turn signal circuits. The standard trailer wiring harness does not have this device.
I am only getting turn signals on the trailer when running lights are off. The running lights on the trailer work on their own also. How can I fix this?
Sounds like you have some fixtures that aren't grounded properly. Some of your lights may be back feeding through each other instead of going to ground. This video may help ruclips.net/video/GolYLizOcow/видео.html
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors thank you!
Thanks for this resource. I hope you can help me with a question. Took the car to Uhaul yesterday, rented a trailer, no lights worked. Same result with two different trailers. This is a 2011 Toyota Sienna. The lights were working two years ago as far as I know when we got a trailer from U-Haul. When I test the four flat from the car with the multimeter I get about two volts whether the lights are on or not.
This is supposed to be one of those setups where because of the LED brake lights, you have to run power from the battery all the way back. The weird thing is I checked and there's no such animal. What could be the cause of this? Do you think I need a new controller?
It's hard to say, but if you need the controller, it usually is powered separately. So there should be a wire that powers it up from the battery. It might not be easy to see. If the controller is powered up, you may need a new one.
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors Thanks. I finally figured out, they originally used the nearby lighter jack for + and the ground for -. But I moved both to the lighter jack, and now all three ports show ~12.65 volts even when all lights are off. I assume this means a bad controller, but would appreciate your input. Many thanks.
@@mariacombe If the converter module (controller) has a neg. - input I wouldn't connect power to it. I really can't comment to your particular converter as many have slightly different wiring as do the cars themselves. But it sounds like it's still possible the converter is fine and it is just wired wrong. KPO
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors I am surprised you say not to connect power to the negative. Everything I have read says you need the ground because that provides the negative. But, 'never say never', especially when it's inop and I've already ordered a replacement controller. So I will disconnect the negative and let you know. Thanks again.
@@adriancombe Yes you need a ground (neg or -) connected. But anything labeled as such I wouldn't connect power (12vdc) to. I guess I thought you said you also connected power (12vdc) to the negative.
Not sure how to apply this the plug is at the front of the trailer and lights at the back, so you can’t reach both?
If you can't unhook the lights near the fixture they can be checked from the plug. Maybe run a jumper wire for the white may help, KPO.
All my trailer lights work except the running lights, that’s the lights that stay on when you start t
he car?.
That's the brown wire on most color schemes. Follow that brown wire and make sure the plug is clean, KPO.
Great site, and I really appreciate the videos (but find there is far too much repetition.)
Thanks for the feedback. This video is a few years old, hopefully I'm getting better at it. Always trying to improve.
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors Thanks for the reply. I have only watched a few of the trailer videos and they are helpful and easy to follow. I like the fact that you have planned ahead and have "props" ready on a table, edit in close-ups, etc.
I have a specific problem with a utility trailer my friend has loaned me - the lights never seem to work reliably, and I assume it is a ground problem, hence I have turned to your videos for help. I haven't watched them all, only those that seem relevant to my problem.
However, I did notice something and want to ask you a question: The trailer lights are connected to a "4-flat" connector which has the 3 LED test lights on it. When I plug it into my car (2022 Outback), only the running light LED comes on, the LT and RT LED's remain off. However, when I plug it into my wife's car (2012 Volvo XC70), the running light LED is a solid red while the other two LED's are fast blinking.
Any thoughts or suggestions? I want to be sure the power at the vehicle is sound before I spot check the connections on the trailer (which has three lights on each side plus the two tail lights).
Thanks.
3:32 before you get to the point I came here for.
Well at least I got there eventually sorry it took so long.
1. will the meter send power to the tail lights on trailer to see if they work?
2. Is there a brand of plug for truck and trailer that is better for connection purpose, it seems that every year i plug my trailer and no lights but touch the connection where it plugs to the truck and it works !!!
Top Flight, no typically the meter doesn't serve as a power source. But I have a video that shows you how to test the fixtures. Here is the link ruclips.net/video/INI5bZkoEVw/видео.html . Also, I think you get what you pay for. The cheaper the plugs and fixtures are the less quality they are. Thanks for watching, KPO.
Checking continuity from plug to fixture in a trailer is impossible without removing the wiring harness. Cmon man.
You can use a length of wire like a long jumper and then check. Kind of like extending the meter leads.
None of my wires on my trailer are colored. They are all the same.. I am so confused with my problem and am at a loss.. I hope you see my comment. Should I just remove the wires from my taillights/brake lights/ reverse lights and cut them all off and rewire my travel trailer..
The bonus brainbeating delimma is my trailer has wires going to my brakes.. I am afraid I am going to screw my travel trailer up something awful.
see other reply
Jeez, back in high school I dozed off in class like crazy. Now reality hits, and I'm learning again lol. Guess their examples used in class/textbook just sucked.
I hope this helps, KPO.
Hope that red toolbox never falls on your head.
I know, I know. Thanks for watching, KPO.
Okay? Alright? You know? Okay. Alright.
Sorry about that. I will try to do better in the future. But if it makes you feel any better I've had college courses that I couldn't understand the professor because of the broken English they spoke and I had to pay good money for those courses. Thanks for the feedback. Always trying to make the videos better.
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors Nice. Everyone has word whiskers. At least you don't say 'Go ahead and...' every 5 seconds. Keep it up, my man. Your videos are extremely helpful and they matter. Thank you!
ok alright
Hope it helps, KPO.
Could have been much more succinct...didn't start giving actual information until 5min in,then very slow
If someone has a little knowledge of circuits and electricity you could probably just jump right to using the meter, but not everybody does. If someone had no knowledge of trailer circuits I wanted to recommend my other video so we could be on the same page going forward. I also wanted them to not be intimidated be all the settings on the meter before we started. But I understand the beginning could be boring for some. Entire books have been written on using multimeters. It's hard to know where to start because you don't know the skill level of your audience. I tried to make a video for beginners. But I understand what you're saying, KPO.
Ok…ok…ok
I'll try to do better going forward.
I couldn’t stand it
Sorry this didn't work for you Keith. I'll try to do better in the future.
Likes to talk a lot wish he groups get to the point
Ya know it's too bad you have to show unsuspecting people who don't kill animals for sport your opening scenes! Last thing I want to see when I'm looking for electrical help!! What's wrong with you? Have you taught those cute kids to kill animals too?
Sorry to catch you off guard and I do respect your personal choice to not kill animals directly. But I do think it's a little off to assume there is something "wrong" with me. I do hunt and fish partially for sport, but my family also eats everything we harvest. Do I need to do this to survive? No. But let's be honest here. Even if you don't eat or kill animals directly, your existence has killed and displaced animals. The desire to have and use a car, live in a house or apartment, have a computer and internet, use electricity, having any of these things kills and displaces animals. It's not even debatable. Even the vegetables we eat, if it came from a farmers field, animals were killed and displaced to have those veggies. If you are running around naked, foraging nuts and berries, and that's how you live all the time, then maybe your existence doesn't kill or displace animals. But otherwise, you need to ease up with all the judgement stuff.
C’mon! Why do you people waste time on your kids, fish, and whatever? Learn this acronym: “BLUF”…..Bottom Line Up Front. We klick for a topic…stop wasting time. You are to rteach how to use a multimeter, then waste time, and tell us to read the manual. Almost 1/5 of your video before getting to the point.
Sorry it wasn't what you were looking for Samuel. My channel is mostly outdoor related so the intro reflects that. But as far as saying that you might have to read the manual to use a specific meter, I totally stand by that statement. The symbols for the settings and the symbols for meter lead placement vary a lot from meter to meter. Then some meters will have different symbols for the scaling also. I did give some common examples of "Ohms" and "DC volts" as far as the symbols, but some meters may vary. You could select "DC volts" but you may also have to have the leads in a specific sockets to actually measure "DC volts" depending on your specific meter. Most meter manuals aren't intended to teach you how to measure volts, amps or ohms. Most meter manuals assume you are very familiar with how to measure these things. They only instruct you about the specifics of their particuliar meter. I see a lot of videos that say "put your selector here, put your leads here and measure DC volts". And that may help if you have the exact same meter, but it can be confusing if you don't. Especially if you are new to using multimeters. I have been using multimeters for over 40 years. If I bought a new, basic multimeter today, I probably wouldn't need to read the manual. But if I bought a new, higher end multimeter, I would most likely read up on it a little. So if you are totally new to multimeters you definetly should read the manual. This video wasn't meant to replace the meter's specific manual especially for new users. This video was meant to be a basic overview of measuring Ohms and DV volts. Again, sorry it wasn't what you were looking for, KPO.
wtf...are you going to get into the subject matter or show us videos of hunting and fishing
Your in luck I did both! KPO
Why don’t the harnesses just use a dedicated ground to run to the lights? Is it just a cost saving measure for the manufacturer?
I just completely rewired my trailer with LED lights. They don’t work.
I rewired entire trailer two years ago, it stopped working after about a month. I didn’t know about continuity issues then (which was obviously the problem.
I have a 16 year old galvanized LoadRite trailer that I can’t get continuity thru for the life of me?
I’m just going to run dedicated ground wires to each light. Is there any reason I shouldn’t do that?
Yes you can run a ground to each fixture. I would also ground the trailer too. That way if a loose or broken wire grounds to the trailer it will blow a fuse as it should.
@@KnettersPracticalOutdoors thank you for the reply!!