I love the old top breaks I have five S & W top breaks different models. Your repair video is very good. I'm retired so I don't have a lot of money to spend on my collection. I buy broken, rusty revolvers that are somewhat cheep, then I repair and refinish them. I also collect the H & R, Iver Johnson and Hopkins & Johnson top breaks. One suggestion that you might want to consider if the single action sear won't engage, is to tightened the mainspring. I have found that if the mainspring doesn't have enough tension the sear will not engage. You can test this out by unscrewing the tension screw and seeing if single action sear engages. If it doesn't, then tighten the screw until it does. Happy Shooting!
Thanks for the tip! I am with ya, love restoring some of that old stuff. I like the challenge. I am almost done with the Winchester Model 1873. Last step is to hone the chamber. It won't be a complete video, but I will go through what I did and show before and after photos. A little range time as well....
What….! That was fun. Great info. Thanks. Just got mine on layaway 3rd model # 193k can’t wait to get it home and or take it to the range. But I’m going to load :38 S&W in black powder. Not take any chances with smokeless Apparently the pressure curve is different between the types of powder. Anyway thank again.
yep, I have read about the black powder versus smokeless. I don't really fire it much, if at all - more of a collectors item. Always better to be safe than sorry!
glad it helped. fortunately, the original hammer had a good solid point to grip the rear sear. I was planning on filing it if I couldn't switch that saddle pin. If you can't get the edge on, there are parts out there. Just hard to find and can be expensive. Ping me if you need any other video. Really glad it helped someone. good luck!
Wow an excellent video of takedown and reassembly of this revolver. I have just purchased a 3rd Model DA/SA in SW 38. Have not picked it up yet but I'm sure at some point I may have to get into it. Mine has the rounded trigger guard and the first three digits of the serial # are 219. So would this be in the 1893 year of build? Might send you a message/email with pictures after I get it in another week or so. I'm a retired Toolmaker so working with mechanical issues is my norm. Thanks for a great video! I have subscribed.
@@fortyshooter1 thank you. Serial #s starting with 119k - 322k were produced from 1891 - 1895. So, yes approximately 1893. That’s about as close as I can get. That’s most likely a black powder pistol so I would recommend not shooting standard smokeless even though I did. Appreciate the support and enjoy the new gun!
I find the top strap latch to be hand made and so no two are exactly the same. I think what you have is the model two. You can tell because of it's smaller side plate. Model one had a big side plate and was usually in some 44 or 38-40. Model 3 had no side plate. There is also a model one with a spur trigger.
Hi Mike. Thanks for this video series! I have one of these with the exact same problem as yours had - hammer wouldn't hold in SA. I took it to a good local gunsmith, and he accidently snapped the hammer pivot post (the post where the hammer nut screws on to hold the side plate). I found a replacement, but have no idea how to remove the post from the right side of the frame (opposite side of the removable side plate) so I can install it. Any suggestions?
Sitting here looking at it, I would say it looks like you might be able use a punch to tap it out? Not sure it would be that simple, but maybe. I would try that, kinda makes sense. Let me know if that works if not, I can get the gun down to the shop and see if I can figure it out.
Thanks Mike. I thought it was a pin as well, but found a reproduction one, which matches the picture at Numrich Gun Parts (they are out of stock on originals). It shows that is screws into the solid part of the frame (right side). I think I will try a screw extractor to see if I can get it out. I will let you know how it goes.
@@YsabelKid1964I was out all day. Talking to my filmographer in the car I was wondering the same thing. Does it just screw in? If so, can you take anything that will grab it and turn it loose? I mean it’s broken, who cares if you chew it up? Something I would probably do. It’s junk and you have the new part. Is the new stud threaded?
@@MikesGunWorld Yep, the new stud is threaded. I got it from Jack First gun parts. It is for a DA hammerless, as they were out of the ones for the hammered version, but I reasoned that since the "hammerless" just has an internal hammer, S&W might have tried to use the same part. Looks like they did. Unfortunately, the original stud is sheared flush to the interior wall, so nothing I can grab. There is a fixed washer that has two opposing cuts in it, which looks like they engage pins on the frame itself. Might make it "interesting" to try to get out. I'll let you know; it might be a few weeks until I can get to it. Thanks! Jay
BTW, I also bought a new stud nut, just in case. It fits onto the broken shaft of the old hammer stud, and the old stud nut fits onto the new stud post. :)
@mikethomas8422 0 seconds ago I just acquired one of the 38 double action. It needs a good cleaning. I appreciate your video. I am into it at 175. I hope I did OK. Sn 238xxx. I believe this is the second release
I see you love your gun and certainly don't want to damage it. Understand dry firing those old guns can cause the hammer to damage the frame. Either catch the hammer or use duds to catch the firing pin.
I can take a look in my parts bin after work. I'll let you know. If not, try homestead parts, Numrich, eBay Old Arms of Idaho - i have a pretty long list. it's out there somewhere....
that's a great point. I did not show it but everything is sprayed and wiped down with ballistol. my next vids, i will show that and all grease points for lubriplate. thanks for the call out
@@MikesGunWorld thanks Mike. I’ve enjoyed your videos and I appreciate your help. This old gun has been in the family and I am attempting to get it functioning so I can shoot it( black powder only) the trigger comes back fine under spring tension but when it breaks you have to physically push it forward. The cylinder lock is kind of hit and miss. I think you my have the answer. Seems like old west gunsmith may have the part? Do you know a source? Thanks again and I look forward to showing it off after it’s working! Thanks again
@@douglascatron9073 appreciate it Doug. I am literally in the middle of the move. Packing today - semi tomorrow. Give me a little time and I can help you with all of that. I do have an extra cylinder stop, but it’s packed away. See the the video “new shop”. Tonight is our last night in illinois. Please ping me again if I don’t answer soon. Been crazy!
@@MikesGunWorld thanks again will ping ya in a few weeks. Be safe in your travels and good luck to you and yours during your move and hope your new place serves you well for years to come! Keep your eyes and ears open and be safe. Talk soon
Your patience, time, and level of detail with this is appreciated.
Thank you!
Great job putting that together I'm working on one myself now I can see what parts I'm going to need 👍
Thank you. I just picked up an Ivers Johnson Model 2 hammerless .32 cal. Started tearing it down. Good luck with yours!
Great video! Extremely informative!
I love the old top breaks I have five S & W top breaks different models. Your repair video is very good. I'm retired so I don't have a lot of money to spend on my collection. I buy broken, rusty revolvers that are somewhat cheep, then I repair and refinish them. I also collect the H & R, Iver Johnson and Hopkins & Johnson top breaks. One suggestion that you might want to consider if the single action sear won't engage, is to tightened the mainspring. I have found that if the mainspring doesn't have enough tension the sear will not engage. You can test this out by unscrewing the tension screw and seeing if single action sear engages. If it doesn't, then tighten the screw until it does.
Happy Shooting!
Thanks for the tip! I am with ya, love restoring some of that old stuff. I like the challenge. I am almost done with the Winchester Model 1873. Last step is to hone the chamber. It won't be a complete video, but I will go through what I did and show before and after photos. A little range time as well....
What….! That was fun. Great info. Thanks.
Just got mine on layaway 3rd model # 193k can’t wait to get it home and or take it to the range. But I’m going to load :38 S&W in black powder. Not take any chances with smokeless Apparently the pressure curve is different between the types of powder.
Anyway thank again.
yep, I have read about the black powder versus smokeless. I don't really fire it much, if at all - more of a collectors item. Always better to be safe than sorry!
Thanks for the help you've been giving me Mike. I always put a slight chamfer on the pins so they'll go in either way. KRE
always happy to help. just wish we could solve it!
Thank you so much for the Vid. Helped me very much on reassembly of my S&W 32. I'm also having trouble with the single action function.
glad it helped. fortunately, the original hammer had a good solid point to grip the rear sear. I was planning on filing it if I couldn't switch that saddle pin. If you can't get the edge on, there are parts out there. Just hard to find and can be expensive. Ping me if you need any other video. Really glad it helped someone. good luck!
Wow an excellent video of takedown and reassembly of this revolver. I have just purchased a 3rd Model DA/SA in SW 38. Have not picked it up yet but I'm sure at some point I may have to get into it. Mine has the rounded trigger guard and the first three digits of the serial # are 219. So would this be in the 1893 year of build? Might send you a message/email with pictures after I get it in another week or so. I'm a retired Toolmaker so working with mechanical issues is my norm. Thanks for a great video! I have subscribed.
@@fortyshooter1 thank you. Serial #s starting with 119k - 322k were produced from 1891 - 1895. So, yes approximately 1893. That’s about as close as I can get. That’s most likely a black powder pistol so I would recommend not shooting standard smokeless even though I did. Appreciate the support and enjoy the new gun!
Great video! I installed the rear sear from behind the trigger. On my gun, that direction was easier.
Thanks! So, did you put the rear sear into the trigger and then up into the frame?
I find the top strap latch to be hand made and so no two are exactly the same. I think what you have is the model two. You can tell because of it's smaller side plate. Model one had a big side plate and was usually in some 44 or 38-40. Model 3 had no side plate. There is also a model one with a spur trigger.
Mijo usted tendrá repuesto o para hacer una copia de ese mismo modelo
Very nice. Like those old top breaks. I have us revolver company in 32 and 38. A smith is next. very interesting thanks
good luck! they are fun. Hope the videos help!
Amigo soy de Colombia usted tendrá uno de esos mismo para unas piezas que le hacen falta al mio
Hi Mike. Thanks for this video series! I have one of these with the exact same problem as yours had - hammer wouldn't hold in SA. I took it to a good local gunsmith, and he accidently snapped the hammer pivot post (the post where the hammer nut screws on to hold the side plate). I found a replacement, but have no idea how to remove the post from the right side of the frame (opposite side of the removable side plate) so I can install it. Any suggestions?
Sitting here looking at it, I would say it looks like you might be able use a punch to tap it out? Not sure it would be that simple, but maybe. I would try that, kinda makes sense. Let me know if that works if not, I can get the gun down to the shop and see if I can figure it out.
Thanks Mike. I thought it was a pin as well, but found a reproduction one, which matches the picture at Numrich Gun Parts (they are out of stock on originals). It shows that is screws into the solid part of the frame (right side). I think I will try a screw extractor to see if I can get it out. I will let you know how it goes.
@@YsabelKid1964I was out all day. Talking to my filmographer in the car I was wondering the same thing. Does it just screw in? If so, can you take anything that will grab it and turn it loose? I mean it’s broken, who cares if you chew it up? Something I would probably do. It’s junk and you have the new part.
Is the new stud threaded?
@@MikesGunWorld Yep, the new stud is threaded. I got it from Jack First gun parts. It is for a DA hammerless, as they were out of the ones for the hammered version, but I reasoned that since the "hammerless" just has an internal hammer, S&W might have tried to use the same part. Looks like they did. Unfortunately, the original stud is sheared flush to the interior wall, so nothing I can grab. There is a fixed washer that has two opposing cuts in it, which looks like they engage pins on the frame itself. Might make it "interesting" to try to get out. I'll let you know; it might be a few weeks until I can get to it. Thanks! Jay
BTW, I also bought a new stud nut, just in case. It fits onto the broken shaft of the old hammer stud, and the old stud nut fits onto the new stud post. :)
@mikethomas8422
0 seconds ago
I just acquired one of the 38 double action. It needs a good cleaning. I appreciate your video. I am into it at 175. I hope I did OK. Sn 238xxx. I believe this is the second release
Model 2 was SN 25,001-119,000 1877-1891 Model 3 was 119,001-322,700 1891-1895
Hola muy buen video tienes piezas disponibles?😢😢
I do have some parts available - what are you looking for?
I see you love your gun and certainly don't want to damage it. Understand dry firing those old guns can cause the hammer to damage the frame. Either catch the hammer or use duds to catch the firing pin.
Looking for a rear sear spring, know where I can get one it's a 38
I can take a look in my parts bin after work. I'll let you know. If not, try homestead parts, Numrich, eBay Old Arms of Idaho - i have a pretty long list. it's out there somewhere....
I have one - what would you like to do?
no lube? oil , grease?
that's a great point. I did not show it but everything is sprayed and wiped down with ballistol. my next vids, i will show that and all grease points for lubriplate. thanks for the call out
@@MikesGunWorld I think you've got me inspired if I come across one of these for the right money
@@MyWillypilly if you do and need parts i do have some. have fun, i will always answer a question
Thank you for the really helpful video. Do you know where ii can get a trigger stud for one of these?
Dónde puedo conseguir unas piezas de ese mismo revlolver
I used a translator and if it was correct, you are looking for parts? try gunbroker.com, old arms of idaho, numrich and even ebay.
Does anyone know what returns the trigger all the way forward?
There is a trigger spring under the trigger guard. I do show it in the video.
@@MikesGunWorld thanks Mike. I’ve enjoyed your videos and I appreciate your help. This old gun has been in the family and I am attempting to get it functioning so I can shoot it( black powder only) the trigger comes back fine under spring tension but when it breaks you have to physically push it forward. The cylinder lock is kind of hit and miss. I think you my have the answer. Seems like old west gunsmith may have the part? Do you know a source? Thanks again and I look forward to showing it off after it’s working! Thanks again
@@douglascatron9073 appreciate it Doug. I am literally in the middle of the move. Packing today - semi tomorrow. Give me a little time and I can help you with all of that. I do have an extra cylinder stop, but it’s packed away. See the the video “new shop”. Tonight is our last night in illinois. Please ping me again if I don’t answer soon. Been crazy!
@@MikesGunWorld thanks again will ping ya in a few weeks. Be safe in your travels and good luck to you and yours during your move and hope your new place serves you well for years to come! Keep your eyes and ears open and be safe. Talk soon
Soy de Colombia habrá alguien con esa mismo revolver para hacer una copia de esas piezas que me hacen falta
I used a translator and if it was correct, you are looking for parts? try gunbroker.com, old arms of idaho, numrich and even ebay.
Please help to do my job
How can I be of assistance?
Tengo uno igual quien le interesa
I would not dry fire that old piece...you risk buggering up the firing pin hole...every time you did that I cringed