+jimbo booth Pretty much any wheel with a CV axle has a hub bearing like this, many newer 4x4's use CV axles on the front. That's awesome that you're learning a lot! Thanks for your continued support!
You don't need to remove the ball joint or the driveshaft, loose ln the hub nut and slide the driveshaft back to remove the 4 bolts at the rear,that would of saved you more time
Excellent write up. Saved me a good bit of money by doing it myself. I used this vid to help me change my wheel bearing, the only difference was I used a ball joint separator to split the lower ball joint.
This may be my next job. Took discs off today and stripped the retaining screw. managed to get it out but mangled the thread in the hub. No big deal as the wheel nuts hold it all together but if I never need tyres the garage may not do it if my disc is loose. Liabilities etc.
That's anti seize. You can use regular grease or even nothing at all if you want. I used the anti seize because the can has a brush and it was on hand and easy to use.
Good video but just a little tip no need to take the brake caliper off the bracket just undo the bracket two bolts also no need to undo the ball joint either
I had my turbo oil return line done and the shop was going at it on the nut, you have to remove the drive axle to fit the oil return. I drove it about two miles away and the tire fell off. Watch my wheel hub fall video. It was just replaced, then the driver's side, and they won't take responsibility. I had to replace the entire suspension
+a DIY Car Guy I did the entire front end. control arms, inner and outer tie rods, bushings, radiator support, intercooler, knuckles, brakes, brake lines, subframe bushings, wheel hub, bearings. I started the back with all new rotors, pads, dampers, I'm just waiting for better weather to do the Jetta nose swap and stage 2 ECU, fmic, fuel rail, regulator and 440cc injectors, stage 2 clutch it only has a stage 1. Then a GT28, I know it's gonna take a few years but I don't care about the body as much as the way it handles.
Hi I need to replace by front bearing on the r53s but I don’t have a tab to push out it seem to be completely round almost with no visible knocking out tab thanks
No sound on mine, but lift the wheel off the ground and grab the wheel at the top and bottom and try to wiggle it. If the bearing is bad you'll feel the wheel wiggle, and also observe the gap between the brake rotor and dust sheild that's behind it, it will look like it's moving; because the rotor is attached to the outer part of the hub, and the dust shield is attached to steering knuckle which is attached to the inner part of the hub.
Every remove the hub without removing the rotor? Rotor torx (T50) is trashed and not coming out, so this prevents the removal of the rotor, hence the question. Any advice is welcome. Thanks!
I'm 95% sure it's possible, but I haven't done it. I would drill out that screw to get the rotor off, unless the rotor is bad and you just want to scrap the whole rotor + hub. That screw doesn't really need to be there, it just makes mounting the wheels a lot easier. Just the head of the screw needs to be drilled off until the rotor comes off, the rest of the stud can stay in there.
Thats great news, here the whole time, I thought the screw really did something! I'll get the head off and go from there, if not I'll let you know if the other idea works about taking the hub and rotor off together. I can't thank you enough for such a quick reply. Thank you and let you know what happens!
***** Yea the previous owner on my car didn't even put those screws back in lol so I don't even have them. Definitely let me know what happens, you're welcome and thanks for watching!
4.5" grinder and a dremel, cut a triangle around the Torx bolt and into the rotor. Got a little cut on the hub - nothing big. Rotor came off easily, and then final the Torx bolt came out! Thanks for the help & I'm subscribed.
Use an impact gun and itle zap that nut off..lol it will not strip out or wreck your axle , if some how it got wrecked from that then your axle was going to fail very soon anyways....
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I am amazed on how the front end is similar to a newer 4x4 truck . I am learning a lot .Your vids are definitely helpful!
+jimbo booth Pretty much any wheel with a CV axle has a hub bearing like this, many newer 4x4's use CV axles on the front. That's awesome that you're learning a lot! Thanks for your continued support!
a DIY Car Guy not a problem! I think my truck is that wasy too , but it is within the twin I beam suspension.
You don't need to remove the ball joint or the driveshaft, loose ln the hub nut and slide the driveshaft back to remove the 4 bolts at the rear,that would of saved you more time
If that axle comes out.. lol. Mine is STUCK.
Excellent write up. Saved me a good bit of money by doing it myself.
I used this vid to help me change my wheel bearing, the only difference was I used a ball joint separator to split the lower ball joint.
thanks!
Hi, I am trying to decide if gambling on this 1/3 the OEM cost bearing is worth it. How is yours holding up nowadays?
Awesome video done mine following this,
Tip for people who's car hasn't been touched, use a bloody breaker bar on everything.
This may be my next job. Took discs off today and stripped the retaining screw. managed to get it out but mangled the thread in the hub. No big deal as the wheel nuts hold it all together but if I never need tyres the garage may not do it if my disc is loose. Liabilities etc.
What's the grease stuff in the jar you were using a brush to put on?
That's anti seize. You can use regular grease or even nothing at all if you want. I used the anti seize because the can has a brush and it was on hand and easy to use.
Maybe I missed it somewhere, what is the silver stuff you're putting on with a brush?
anti seize
@3:17 I see magic happening. Your Mini is levitating off the closest jack stand. Or are you holding the car up with your right elbow?
Good video but just a little tip no need to take the brake caliper off the bracket just undo the bracket two bolts also no need to undo the ball joint either
Nice video.
I noticed the detroit axle hubs are 1/3 of the cost of the oem brand hubs.
How are these bearings holding up for you?
thanks, they've been good so far
very helpful and easy to follow
I had my turbo oil return line done and the shop was going at it on the nut, you have to remove the drive axle to fit the oil return. I drove it about two miles away and the tire fell off. Watch my wheel hub fall video. It was just replaced, then the driver's side, and they won't take responsibility. I had to replace the entire suspension
+fockyoumang wow that's insane! I just watched it.
+a DIY Car Guy I did the entire front end. control arms, inner and outer tie rods, bushings, radiator support, intercooler, knuckles, brakes, brake lines, subframe bushings, wheel hub, bearings. I started the back with all new rotors, pads, dampers, I'm just waiting for better weather to do the Jetta nose swap and stage 2 ECU, fmic, fuel rail, regulator and 440cc injectors, stage 2 clutch it only has a stage 1. Then a GT28, I know it's gonna take a few years but I don't care about the body as much as the way it handles.
***** wow nice man, that's a lot of work, It's gonna be sweet though!
Hello, Can you explain why you need to remove the lower ball joint? Looks like it is not connected to the wheel bearing?
So you can swing the hub out and get the axle out of the hub. Otherwise the axle won't slide out.
a DIY Car Guy Thanks!
Hi I need to replace by front bearing on the r53s but I don’t have a tab to push out it seem to be completely round almost with no visible knocking out tab thanks
Not sure what you mean. Hit it on the side, maybe get a slide hammer.
What did the failing bearing sound like, and how did you locate it?
No sound on mine, but lift the wheel off the ground and grab the wheel at the top and bottom and try to wiggle it. If the bearing is bad you'll feel the wheel wiggle, and also observe the gap between the brake rotor and dust sheild that's behind it, it will look like it's moving; because the rotor is attached to the outer part of the hub, and the dust shield is attached to steering knuckle which is attached to the inner part of the hub.
Every remove the hub without removing the rotor? Rotor torx (T50) is trashed and not coming out, so this prevents the removal of the rotor, hence the question.
Any advice is welcome. Thanks!
I'm 95% sure it's possible, but I haven't done it. I would drill out that screw to get the rotor off, unless the rotor is bad and you just want to scrap the whole rotor + hub. That screw doesn't really need to be there, it just makes mounting the wheels a lot easier. Just the head of the screw needs to be drilled off until the rotor comes off, the rest of the stud can stay in there.
Thats great news, here the whole time, I thought the screw really did something! I'll get the head off and go from there, if not I'll let you know if the other idea works about taking the hub and rotor off together.
I can't thank you enough for such a quick reply. Thank you and let you know what happens!
***** Yea the previous owner on my car didn't even put those screws back in lol so I don't even have them. Definitely let me know what happens, you're welcome and thanks for watching!
4.5" grinder and a dremel, cut a triangle around the Torx bolt and into the rotor. Got a little cut on the hub - nothing big.
Rotor came off easily, and then final the Torx bolt came out! Thanks for the help & I'm subscribed.
***** Awesome! Nothin to worry about if you nik the hub a little. Thank you for the sub!!
good video quality , lots of information. thank you
Use an impact gun and itle zap that nut off..lol it will not strip out or wreck your axle , if some how it got wrecked from that then your axle was going to fail very soon anyways....
yea true I was being a btch
Nice Job thanks.
Will this apply to 2010?
should be the same or similar
😆The ending 👍
You replaced the hub, not the hub bearing.
it's a hub bearing assembly
@@aDIYCarGuy Sure.
Aas alway
As always torque specs to finish the video would be nice just as a refresher course ..,
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