Subscribed and liked. Here’s one, I stopped the Cadillac dealer to talk to my buddy, a tech I worked with for about 17 years. We started talking and got onto the subject of “Knock Sensors”. He brought over a Chevy tech and he said with age (Us Bone Yard Swap Guys) the knock sensor codes are showing up. He’s change 30 this year since January 2020 in 02’s and up. He said the sensors get replaced but you have to clean the threaded pedestal they screw into with a rotary brush he got, run a tap in, then add dielectric grease inside the threads and the electrical terminal on top. They use a grey RTV (High Temp Red) is just as good. But they are sealing the cap in the valley pan. The circuit has two voltages on it. One is 5 volt DC low current signal during PCM testing for enable criteria to see its there. Then spark timing is reduced when starting until 450 RPM is seen, then timing goes almost max to allow both knock sensors to retard timing for all conditions. Each produce an A/C signal to allow timing control. The PCM learns what is normal engine noise so if one sensor looses its signal, it is easy for the PCM to recognize signal loss. Since type “B” code, the PCM saves fail records for the first failure that ignition cycle, but turns on the check engine light on the second fail, and stores a second set of fail records. Mainly his advice was to clean it up, clean and tap the threads, use dielectric grease on both ends and seal the cap with quality RTV. As we buy these in 2020, certain common updates are used, but common failures need addressed also. Remember a low mileage 2002 5.3L may be reasonable, but it’s already 18 years old. With a few tips, several cheap repairs while on your engine stand, will reduce simple headaches after you install it in you new old ride! Enjoy guys. Retired - ASE Master Tech since 78
I've know this method for years but this was a fantastic demonstration of how it works. You guys are cranking out some good videos. I definitely subbed.
I suspected that this was possible but i was trying to invent some sort of magnetic tool to get this done. this is super simple. This is a great video thx so much for sharing this!
Great video, very informative. So the two holes you are putting the dowels in are the main oil galleys. These mains feed oil (under pressure) to all of the lifters. Good trick, I'll use if for my 5.3 build in a '83 Cherokee. Save the SJ's!
That’s the vid i was looking for..thanks for explaining how that dowl holds up the lifters..I was getting nervous about the lifters falling..attempting a ls swap soon,,all good info..
This video is absolutely amazing by the way thank you for making it you deserve all the credit Your edits and your music are freaking awesome by the way
@Fdeubcfhbbjhfd it does and it will, but you will have to remove the intake manifold and the high pressure fuel pump. Then you'll have to use a magnet with a string to secure the fuel pump lifter out of the way before pulling the camshaft. I did this on my 5.3l and it was relatively easy.
My LM7 flex fuel engine died. Got a L33 I wanted to swap in. Was gonna add a mild cam for torque when pulling an enclosed trailer. Any suggestions on making that engine swap? I know it will need to be tuned, but what will need to be swapped?
So is there enough space between the lifter and the cam even when lifter is all the way up in the tray to slide the wooden 5/16 dowl in between lifter and cam.Or is that the reason the 100 dollar tool is flat ,so it has enough room between cam and lifter before pulling cam out.Just wondering.But I'll try it soon.Thanks for the tip.
I got a 2010 express van 6.0 that im making into a pop up camper van. Can u help recommend a cam and springs I can use? Will I have to get it tuned after? Any help would be great thx
The Brian Tolley racing torque cam will work great for a heavy vehicle. You don’t have to tune pcm after cam swap but there are gains to be had if you do. I would not tune in your case.
Hey Bo. Just got myself my first LS1 car. So I'll be watching a bunch of your videos, thanks for these btw. I'm new to these and I definitely want to change the cam. Without sounding like a dumbass, valves don't drop when you remove the retainers? No need to hold them up with compressed air or anything? Thanks for any insight. NVM....I just watched your other more detailed install video. Lol. Thanks 😊
Number one rule when changing valve train equipment. Always replace the lifters, cam, pushrods timing chain, timing gear and oil pump/ replace with high volume particularly on a high lift cam. Valve springs etc New gaskets and do the job properly
this trick is slick for replacing stock DoD cams, especially if you already replaced the lifters but the camshaft looked alright from what could be seen through lifter bore. Saved me a ton of time and another pair of head gaskets.
The camshaft has to be in the car so you can rotate it to raise all the lifters to the top of their travel. They are held there by the lifter trays while you insert the rods into the oil galleries to secure them against falling into the crankcase while you withdraw the old camshaft and insert the new one.
I had to remove the heads. Glad I did they were trashed along with the gaskets. All trash and leaking coolant. Dipped the heads three times and still gunk in all ports. It's a mess. The engine has 180k and still can see the hone marks in the sleeves.
GreaseMonkeyMods / my guess is it’s people who are getting “help” from friends and relatives who’ve only ever worked on og small blocks and big blocks and they’re telling these folks “yup you have to get those lifters out of there before you do anything else” “Well I read that you don’t have to because the LS has a capture tray that holds them up” “Sonny Jim ive forgotten more about motors than you’ll ever know, so who you gonna trust? Me or some some new fangled procedure you saw on that interweb, everybody know that the inter-computers is only good for reading about the flat earth and porn, now go yank those heads” I’m assuming it goes something like that or maybe I have way too much time on my hands
GreaseMonkeyMods How can it drain oil onto the timing chain if u have the cam retainer with that little gasket installed? Those 2 holes are the oil galley that delivers oil pressure to the lifters. Its like a cross over from driver side to passenger side. By the way there’s several other ways to change the cam without removing the heads. And even without using magnets.
If your changing cam's, you shouldn't be online letting everyone know that you are 4'10" with a little man complex. Go turn wrenches and let ones who don't know educate themselves to turning wrenches themselves..
Seriously? I had to check the date on this video because this has been common knowledge to EVERYONE for years. All anyone has to do is search "cam swap" on Google and boom. There is your myth busted. SMH
Just trying to make helpful content man take it easy. There's new people everyday putting there hands on an LS for the first time. Old or new info it doesn't matter because LS engines are still very relevant
Subscribed and liked. Here’s one, I stopped the Cadillac dealer to talk to my buddy, a tech I worked with for about 17 years. We started talking and got onto the subject of “Knock Sensors”. He brought over a Chevy tech and he said with age (Us Bone Yard Swap Guys) the knock sensor codes are showing up. He’s change 30 this year since January 2020 in 02’s and up. He said the sensors get replaced but you have to clean the threaded pedestal they screw into with a rotary brush he got, run a tap in, then add dielectric grease inside the threads and the electrical terminal on top. They use a grey RTV (High Temp Red) is just as good. But they are sealing the cap in the valley pan. The circuit has two voltages on it. One is 5 volt DC low current signal during PCM testing for enable criteria to see its there. Then spark timing is reduced when starting until 450 RPM is seen, then timing goes almost max to allow both knock sensors to retard timing for all conditions. Each produce an A/C signal to allow timing control. The PCM learns what is normal engine noise so if one sensor looses its signal, it is easy for the PCM to recognize signal loss. Since type “B” code, the PCM saves fail records for the first failure that ignition cycle, but turns on the check engine light on the second fail, and stores a second set of fail records.
Mainly his advice was to clean it up, clean and tap the threads, use dielectric grease on both ends and seal the cap with quality RTV. As we buy these in 2020, certain common updates are used, but common failures need addressed also. Remember a low mileage 2002 5.3L may be reasonable, but it’s already 18 years old. With a few tips, several cheap repairs while on your engine stand, will reduce simple headaches after you install it in you new old ride! Enjoy guys. Retired - ASE Master Tech since 78
I love watching instead of listening!! I’m a show me kind of guy don’t tell me, otherwise get out the crayons! Thanks!!
I've know this method for years but this was a fantastic demonstration of how it works. You guys are cranking out some good videos. I definitely subbed.
The first video I have seen on ls engines that had something worth watching great video thank you 👍
0:35 ohh I see you use the rusted into the block trick
You make really good videos, it’s nice to see folks who work hard and take their jobs seriously. Thanks for the tips.
Two ways, dowels in the galley holes or flip the block upside down and you don't even need dowels
I suspected that this was possible but i was trying to invent some sort of magnetic tool to get this done. this is super simple. This is a great video thx so much for sharing this!
You don’t need any tools for holding the lifters, it’s already part of the LS, the lifter trays are already holding the lifters!
Great video, very informative. So the two holes you are putting the dowels in are the main oil galleys. These mains feed oil (under pressure) to all of the lifters. Good trick, I'll use if for my 5.3 build in a '83 Cherokee. Save the SJ's!
The Bronco's R Coming..........
Thanks for the video. From what I understand, those are the oiling holes.
I needed this added bit of security for my confidence lol. Thank you brother.
You can buy aluminum rod from Grainger 5/16'' x 3ft it comes in a package of 3 for $10.50 "Grade 6061 T6 Aluminum" !!!
Less likely to get junk in the oil galleries
0:50 two little holes are oil galleries feeding lifters and crankshaft assembly
You should know that fam
Why is the motor mounted backwards on the engine stand?? Thats crazy.
That’s the vid i was looking for..thanks for explaining how that dowl holds up the lifters..I was getting nervous about the lifters falling..attempting a ls swap soon,,all good info..
This video is absolutely amazing by the way thank you for making it you deserve all the credit
Your edits and your music are freaking awesome by the way
What about the valves falling? U use compress air to hold em up?
Thank you! I’m installing a NSR Truck Norris camshaft into my 05 Silverado when my camshaft comes in!
How’d it go
Thank you. Greetings from Calgary, Alberta 🤘🇨🇦
I'm assuming the lifters don't rotate while holding them up because of the tray notches right?
How long does the rod have to be
Is this video for the people who wont be changing lifters and trays for new ones?
This is a big help! Will this trick work on a 2017 Silverado 1500 5.3L? Thanks for posting.
@Fdeubcfhbbjhfd it does and it will, but you will have to remove the intake manifold and the high pressure fuel pump. Then you'll have to use a magnet with a string to secure the fuel pump lifter out of the way before pulling the camshaft. I did this on my 5.3l and it was relatively easy.
Can you tell me the brand and lift cam you chose? I love the chop.
Thanks man , your videos are great! Thanks for all the LS content, helps me out a ton !
What state you located? Or where is your shop?
Can that use to do an upgrade I ring it’s at 75 degrees cam?
when and why to change springs and rods for what cam?
So I was thinking ss2 cam in a ls will I need to do anything else? Or can I just put the cam in
Who makes the valve spring tool you used in the video? It's perfect
Can this be done on the newer LT engines
Yeah but when doing the cam you should be putting ls7 lifters in anyway
Where to buy that camshaft you bought?
Q cum me recomiendas en un motor 4,8 L 2008 y que no me afecte el smog l live in California smog is a big deal . Pliz help
Does this also work with the GDI engines without removing the hpf pump?
The high pressure pump comes right off, just remove it.
Will this work on the new 5.3 2016 with afm or dod ?
I learn from your videos thank you for teaching you the man.. keep it up
Where can I find them wood rod at
5/16 and how long do you need them Iv heard 22-24 inches and you ever have any problems with the passenger side when trying to insert the wooden dowel
How are u keeping the valve up
how do you know when the motor is dead center doing this method ?!?!
My LM7 flex fuel engine died. Got a L33 I wanted to swap in. Was gonna add a mild cam for torque when pulling an enclosed trailer. Any suggestions on making that engine swap? I know it will need to be tuned, but what will need to be swapped?
What songs are on this video? The one at the end is awesome!!!
OK but what if the lifters are bad or chewed up
Hey, do I need to swap the cam if I put 6.0 heads on a 5.3?
do you have to change anything else or just the cam?
So is there enough space between the lifter and the cam even when lifter is all the way up in the tray to slide the wooden 5/16 dowl in between lifter and cam.Or is that the reason the 100 dollar tool is flat ,so it has enough room between cam and lifter before pulling cam out.Just wondering.But I'll try it soon.Thanks for the tip.
do you have to get computer retuned with a cam swap?
Yes absolutely.
Thanks for putting out very useful videos!
Do you have a shop? Will you consider working on my 04 Silverado 5.3?
What area are you in?
I got a 2010 express van 6.0 that im making into a pop up camper van. Can u help recommend a cam and springs I can use? Will I have to get it tuned after? Any help would be great thx
The Brian Tolley racing torque cam will work great for a heavy vehicle. You don’t have to tune pcm after cam swap but there are gains to be had if you do. I would not tune in your case.
Does this work for all Ls engines?
What brand of valve spring compressor tool are you using? Are you happy with it?
Hey bud. I noticed the cars you put cams in start straight away. Will they run without a tune. Or do y oou get them tuned at a later date?
Do the plugs or pushrods have to come out to spin the cam? Ive replaced the springs already and cant spin the cam to get the dowels inserted
Did u figure it out ? Did u have to remove the push rods ?
Hey Bo. Just got myself my first LS1 car. So I'll be watching a bunch of your videos, thanks for these btw. I'm new to these and I definitely want to change the cam. Without sounding like a dumbass, valves don't drop when you remove the retainers? No need to hold them up with compressed air or anything? Thanks for any insight.
NVM....I just watched your other more detailed install video. Lol. Thanks 😊
Should you change the lifters when swapping cams everyone tells me yes
roller lifters but if you're gonna lift the heads then it's a good idea to replace the lifter buckets or plastic lifter trays.
What can did you use
Great video, subbed.
Love the video, full of good information.. Thanks
This is freaking cool...
I subd great stuff
such a helpful video dude
Did you pressure up the cylinder with the airline to change the valve springs and by the way I subscribed I like your content man good job
No. On another video he explains how to change springs by bringing each piston to top dead center. Then they only drop if at all 1/4"
Excellent information! Thank you 😀👍
Great, but if you have a 600 lift cam, you gotta pull the heads and change the lifters😅
What is the lenght of the rods?
I watched another video that said approx 24"
Great Video!!
Can’t you just turn the engine upside down, turn the cam a few times to push the lifters down, then remove the cam?
This technique is most useful when changing the cam without pulling engine or even heads.
great video
Great video!
Too Bad you Can't do it on vehicles like Mine, 2007 to 2013 Silverado with AFM!
Good info for ls guys
Your epic bro. Thank you so much!
So,what f you are using Tie-Bar lifters.. No cups?
cool ls content
Thanks!
Anyone know if this works with the LT engines?
Esta chido ese vídeo
Awsome dude
Great info, thanks!
Good job
Appreciate the info ✌🏾💯
The gen 3 was designed by drag race engine masters.
Number one rule when changing valve train equipment.
Always replace the lifters, cam, pushrods timing chain, timing gear and oil pump/ replace with high volume particularly on a high lift cam. Valve springs etc
New gaskets and do the job properly
this trick is slick for replacing stock DoD cams, especially if you already replaced the lifters but the camshaft looked alright from what could be seen through lifter bore. Saved me a ton of time and another pair of head gaskets.
Gm is fkn awesome
Can this also be done ✅ while camshaft is still in the car?
Yes as long as u make/have enough room to pull the cam out . (moving the radiator etc...)
The camshaft has to be in the car so you can rotate it to raise all the lifters to the top of their travel. They are held there by the lifter trays while you insert the rods into the oil galleries to secure them against falling into the crankcase while you withdraw the old camshaft and insert the new one.
❤❤❤❤❤
Ac condenser is in the way of putting the rods into the motor. 😢
Then you don’t have enough room to pull the cam out
My comment I miss the d16 lol
I had to remove the heads. Glad I did they were trashed along with the gaskets. All trash and leaking coolant. Dipped the heads three times and still gunk in all ports. It's a mess. The engine has 180k and still can see the hone marks in the sleeves.
Te boy a dar like y sucrivime
If your cam is bad so is at least 1 lifter, pull the fucking heads and replace the lifter so ur not wasting your time
Who thinks the heads have to come off for an ls cam swap? The Ls engines party trick is not having to remove the lifters to remove the cam
You'd be surprised
GreaseMonkeyMods / my guess is it’s people who are getting “help” from friends and relatives who’ve only ever worked on og small blocks and big blocks and they’re telling these folks “yup you have to get those lifters out of there before you do anything else”
“Well I read that you don’t have to because the LS has a capture tray that holds them up”
“Sonny Jim ive forgotten more about motors than you’ll ever know, so who you gonna trust? Me or some some new fangled procedure you saw on that interweb, everybody know that the inter-computers is only good for reading about the flat earth and porn, now go yank those heads”
I’m assuming it goes something like that or maybe I have way too much time on my hands
Lmao that was great..
Lmao that was great..
You shouldn’t be changing cams if you don’t know what those “2 little holes” are for
What are they for?
I'm guessing to drain oil onto the timing chain ect but have no clue lol
GreaseMonkeyMods How can it drain oil onto the timing chain if u have the cam retainer with that little gasket installed? Those 2 holes are the oil galley that delivers oil pressure to the lifters. Its like a cross over from driver side to passenger side. By the way there’s several other ways to change the cam without removing the heads. And even without using magnets.
@@nicksolomon697 I hope you have learned sarcasm by now 😂
If your changing cam's, you shouldn't be online letting everyone know that you are 4'10" with a little man complex. Go turn wrenches and let ones who don't know educate themselves to turning wrenches themselves..
Cmon man, do it with a full engine.
Not bare.
I have several videos of that
Seriously? I had to check the date on this video because this has been common knowledge to EVERYONE for years. All anyone has to do is search "cam swap" on Google and boom. There is your myth busted. SMH
Just trying to make helpful content man take it easy. There's new people everyday putting there hands on an LS for the first time. Old or new info it doesn't matter because LS engines are still very relevant
Helped me out thanks for the video.
Why don't you upload some content instead of running your mouth & criticizing others?
No, nobody thinks you have to remove the heads to do a cam in an LS, nobody has thought that since 1998, you are a little late to the game skippy.