What on earth is wrong with this D2 steel
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- cedric-ada-sto...
Good gravy its bricky on things
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It's too hot, it's all soft and melty, wait until winter
Of course, it's made for Russia, so it's made to cold weather! 😏
You gave that knife WAY more love than it earned. It’s not you, Pete, it’s him.
Nick Shabazz He'll find someone eventually
weird to see you here
Nick Shabazz yeah... I think that there must have been some hardening issues with the knife. Nothing you can do about it. No matter how long you sharpen no matter the polish it's gonna dull.
hahahhaa = )
yeah he even went toothie with it hahahahaaaa
that must be D2crmov steel
bladecentered 7cr stamped with d2, even bark river calls 3v to a2 lol
You got that right!
BlueBerry14 what exactly are you saying?
BlueBerry14 ?
M. S. L. I think he's saying Bark River's A2 knives are actually made of 3v..
80 passes. You are not doing anything wrong you sharpen correctly and tried with different edge profiles. Another excellent video thank you!
Nice work, multiple tries, used benchmarks, different sharpening methods, etc. .
Thanks Cliff! I tried to massage out its abilities but alas it seems lacking!
@@CedricAda See, now Cliff's "To the max with science" video really feels like a bit of a shout out.
That knife didnt go through the fire and the flames
Heat treat is bad
haha nice dragon force reference
It didn't carrrrryyyyyy OOOOONNNNNN
😅😅😅😅😅
The way he gets sweatier and sweatier by the minute is kinda funny XD
if it had gone on much longer I would have been underwater
If I am not wrong D2 is a highly variable steel depending on how it is heat treated.
Exactly, also it likes a toothy edge, not buffed. I make D2 knives with a 1000 degreeF temper and they are much harder and tougher than any factory edge. They temper at 450 to 550. D2 gets softer then harder as you reach 1000F where it is hrc 60.
@@MountainFisher Curious...i recently got a chef's knife made from cryo-treated d2 steel and I'm curious if that does anything to the steel? Not a knife person, so would you recommend getting them stoned at a shop since Idk how to sharpen knives. Thanks.
@@SKtube0 you can buy the fixed angle sharpener system.. the clone edgepro is really cheap on aliexpress, i've been using that for couple year.
@@SKtube0 get yourself a DMT sharpening kit. The diamond will cut through any steel and their plating process holds up tremendously. I know of a few people who have sharpened around 1000 blades on their DMT benchstones and they are still chugging along nicely.
Since D-2 is only around 11% chromium content, and not 18%, like many other stainless steels, the study results from Sandia Laboratories and Timken bearing may have different or varying results, BUT their study indicated that the cryo treatment post heat treat had negative effects of the material’s dimensional stability, as far as premature wear, which is Timken’s big concern with ball bearings and the use of 440C stainless.
It’s not anything you did mate! If I had to make a guess on what is going on I would bet that either the heat treat is poorly done and the knife is now much softer than it should be, or it was burned when they sharpened it at the factory. If that’s the case, after you sharpen it several times the edge retention should improve. This is exactly why your channel is so valuable. Thanks again mate!
Jason, good point about the edge burning. It's more common than most people know.
Jason Thames, and, mickey h. Exactly!
This is opening a worm hole on using power tools in post heat treat sharpening. A well known brand knife (cough..what sound does the dog make..cough) edge got rolled. It it spark a debate that it turn into name calling. A knife sharpener said the heat from belt is minimal. An article by a ol time knife maker (he did not get into the debate ) said it will effect the edges.
If the metal got burned during the factory sharpening process, you would see metal discolouration on the edge.
Im a chippy, and I have a pretty good idea on this with sharpening my chisels etc. More like not D2 grade steel, even though they say it on the blade... D2 should well and truly hold an edge much longer then your previous tested knife metals...
Cheers.
Yeah, I was also thinking overheated edge
D2 is some of the most reliable steel out there if the heat treat is done properly
Yes. Result means Kizer didn't heat treated it properly.
Love his videos
can’t help but smile at that huge barbecue behind this Australian.
Thanks for all the work you've put in over the years, Pete, it has ralley helped shape and fasion my knowledge and intrest around these different knife steels and how they're bound to function. Many, if not all, of my edc knife choices have been weighed against your testing, and your reccomendations have really helped me come up with some solid gear.
The rope is defective 👍🏻
steel wire reinforced 😄
That “Z” on the blade stands for “Z-hunter retainless steel”, apparently
Artem for President
I have a D2 bestech swordfish and if polish the edge it definitely doesn’t last as long. 3000 grit is where I stop with wet stones and it usually stays stupid sharp all week. I use mine daily in construction work.
Hardness of D2 is extremely sensitive to heat treatment variations.
I am diggin' these synth tunes at 3:20
riiiiiiiiiight!?
it's good stuff ❤️
My God man you’ve put the kiss of death on another D2 knife.
It could be two things; a bad heat treat, or the steel is mis-marked. Kizler offers all their models in AUS8, 440C and D2. A final option is that they are using some junk steel and are deliberately mis-marking it. I do not have much information on their reputation. Thanks for the informative videos and all the hard work you put into them.
Here is no aus8 440c or d2 in russia.. There is russian steels.. Or french, german ect steel Ect that are similar .. This is poorly heat treated
My Benchmade 710 in D2 lasts way longer than this. With general warehouse work I can go a couple of months without touching it. Due to the slight re-curve I use the Lansky 4-Rod Turn Box system. No mirror polish but a great working edge results.
Contact an actual machinist who can perform a Rockwell hardness test at a few places and give you a professional opinion regarding the actual steel chemistry. I do this for no cost.
Heat treatment 🤔
You did everything right to assess that blade steel's cutting performance. Very helpful.
I’ve noticed a trend over the last 18 months or so of a lot of Chinese “D2” knives especially in the sub $50 market, haven’t seen one yet that wasn’t closer to 8cr and worse.
What's the HRC on that knife? I usually find D2 to hold an edge quite well, but could be an issue with the heat treat. But you gave it a lot of attention and it is a great test for edge retention. Great video!!
I may have a D2 blade like that. I thought I had it scary sharp with a Lansky. It had a uniform, real mirror edge. Cut paper magically. Seemed to dull soon, but the edge is still mirror-like. I haven't finished experimenting with sharpening it. Maybe mirror edge is not the solution to this knife blade? Maybe it needs a 2-step or convexy edge? I think I'm going to try 17-19 degree bevel, with a micro bevel of 20-ish. Or 17 with 22 degree micro bevel, that sort of thing.
It is allegedly a D2 steel flipper knife ... maybe the composition is not what is being claimed. Or maybe something went horribly wrong with the heat treat. I think with some of the cheaper manufacturers, they will claim to be using a certain steel when the reality is that they are using some cheap garbage, and by the time anyone notices, they have sold the knives.
chinees D2
Chinese D2 is great
Most likely just heat treat.
Hmm, I wonder if they nicked up the heat treat on that one... I have a kizlyer vendetta D2 which wasn’t cheap and I sure hope it holds up well for the price!
Possibly that batch of heat treatment did not come out as plained. Maybe on the softer side? It would be interesting to compare a toughness test with the other D2's.
I put a convex edge on my d2 rat 1 and it’s my favorite camping / bushcraft knife. Whenever I’m done using it I strop it on my pants a few passes and it holds a crazy edge for a long time.
Probably not actual D2 or isn't properly heat treated.
You should try Steel Will Cutjack's D2 next.
I would love to see that! I want to buy one, but don't know anything about their heat treat.
I would love to see how Medfords D2 steel does but who can afford one?
Onedayilbeok Medford wouldn't cut even if it was made from Maxamet because of the thick grind.
It's probably just 8cr13mov with a high HRC.
@@OnedayilbeokI certainly can't afford it! I could barely afford a second hand spyderco advocate for 150 bucks! still one of the nicest things I've ever held. the ergonomics and high-quality refinement of the spyderco advocate is so fantastic that Medford knives ain't got s*** on it no offense Greg🤣
Great vid man.well looks like you've got yourself a really nice Ferro rod scaper lol
Mmm interesting thanks.I just ordered two Kizlyar KK0239 knives that are supposed to be D2 tool steel which has had some sort of special heat treatment,from the testing videos i have seen the material seemed to be really tough and the HRC is specified as being somewhere between 60 and 63 HRC so either i am getting ripped off or the the knife you have there might not have had the same heat treatment,cheers.
I can't belive the Rat 1 D2 remains the best D2 lol
According to the Interwebs, if you have a decent steel tactical knife that keeps going dull quickly, its probably that you are sharpening at the wring angle. Try 25 degrees or even 30 degrees angle. Should last longer.
You should get a decent magnifier. A digital microscope is nice but I bought a good adjustable microscope(I think it's 60x-100x) for about $13 on Amazon. I look at the edge as I sharpen and after certain tests(especially if you get a weird result like you had) and it shows if it chipped, rolled or both(never want both). Also helps with burr minimization.
I upvoted this very old (but great) video just because of that tail wag in the beginning.
If you need D 2 anything, get good American or Swedish steel.
Had same problem.Scalpel sharp, dulls really fast
I think a great way to close the loop (if you were so inclined) would have been to cut the rope with a known control knife/steel, instead of trying a bunch of different edge geometries. I really hope I don't sound like one of those jerk commenters by saying that, but then we could 100 percent say there is something fishy here. Great vid as always mate. Cheers.
Heat treat method is critical with D2.
I always thought that the rope did more to dull the knife that the wooden board.
i feel thats correct, but I cant discount t either ahah
It's the heat treatment or just Dcr2mov, I have a kizlyar whisper and honestly the steel feels way softer than D2 should when sharpened. D2's one of my favorite steels and I have many knives with it, but I remember when I sharpened my kizlyar the first time I right away noticed it felt way too soft and sharpened up way too fast compared to every other D2 knife I have. And then of course went dull way too fast too.
Thats unusual. My benchmade d2 holds an edge longer than my vg10, and evem some of my s30v knives. Its harder to sharpen but sounds like you got some lemon steel or just a bad knife
!!!
Your persistence is greatly appreciated Pete. You have gone above and beyond on this one, but it looks like this kizlyar has that Chinese 7crD2. Sorry killer deegan. I guess they all can’t be winners lol.
KillerDeegan lol. You’re a good sport
Dont polish d2 I use a 1200 grit diamond stone to set the edge bevel how I like it. Then I finish on the grey stones of a sharpmaker, then a lightly loaded strop followed by a clean strop. 10 passes each side on the strops.
I think many vendors like to mark D2 on knives made from a variety of budget steels. Vendors often pretent to have factories. I have seen knives marked D2, and sold as D2, in one maket and marked D2 and sold as a 5Cr varient elsewhere. It is not always easy to determine the actual origin of a knife, and even if it is Chinese, materiels vary based on what is available.
Do a Roselli UHC Wootz blade if you get the chance, it should, but may not, outperform all others you have done.
You had a wire edge chances are.wire edges can fool the best of us and without testing for a wire edge you can easily get fooled... Edge is piping sharp and looks perfect.. But cuts a few good cuts then dulls, that's wire edge
Now that I watched the full video.. It was a bad heat treat... No way you could have created a wire edge each time you sharpened.
It's not strange. What it is is the knife retailer is lying about the actual blade steel. Most stainless steel is garbage
Can you test your Cold Steel Leatherneck D2 ? C.S. heat treatment is admittedly ,very good .
justice & sword
I think you wanna stick either with the lansky or the Worksharp, because they make two different types of edge. The worksharp makes a concave edge, like a samurai sword. The lansky makes a straight edge. to switch from one to the other defeats the last, it doesn't even matter which one is first, every time you do it you lose triple the steel...
20 degree may be too acute for D2. Have two knives in D2 around the 61RCW. One in scandi and the other in FFG. Scandi micro chips like no bodies business but the FFG loves it at 25 degrees plus, maybe 30. Batoning and hardwood for days without resharpening. It's a fickle beast but once you get the right grind, angle (and H/T) it's really good stuff!
i love your videos and tests! is it possible your cutting board is accumulating particles from test subjects that act as abrasives?
or perhaps the rope has debris from manufacture--blade geometry? who knows, but it probably would be worth a laboratory analysis to get to the bottom of this and the zt 450's similar anomaly ( or is it?). i'm sure zt would like to investigate and make sure they don't have a source problem.....
Probably one of the cheaper D2 bladed knives. I spent some money on my knife and i use it almost everyday and still super sharp
The steel manufacturer Crucible describes D2 as a LARGE CARBIDE high chromium tool steel with good abrasion resistance. Large carbides are not an ideal grain structure for edge tools. That, and very specific heat treatment makes third world handiwork seem doubtful as to even using D2. In its non heat treated state, it is around 30RC. Essentially, small carbides have the ability to be sharpened to a very keen edge. Not so much for large carbide structure D2.
Might be the heat treat, might have been over heated during sharpening (very common) or not real D2. If just over heated a half dozen full sharpenings should get down to good metal that holds an edge..
You tried 4 different edges to give the knife a fair shake.
You have sharpened and tested many knives I know you have skills but.......
Was the edge rolling or going blunt? The reason I ask is in my experience with d2 it is hard to remove its burr. I honestly think that is most peoples problems with getting d2 sharp.
Thank you for what you do I have learned and I am thankful for the information presented in your channel.
Poor heat treatment?
thanks for sharing
now this one i really want to see
Steel with out a proper heat treat is just real tough gum.
Hello. Very good reviews of edge holding comparatives of diferent steels. Do you have see the milwaukee hardline d2 steel. Some says its a chinesse made steel. I don t know how good it. Thanks
Say Heah Cedric, I have a couple of D2's my Bokor Black Vox Rold, and a vintage Benchmade Serrated Edge CSK. I'm pretty pleased with both. Infact with my Rold I Piggybacked it with my Mora Classic #1, and tge B M CSK I teamed it with my Estwing Double Bit Hatchet and my Tear Drop Handle Folding Saw which is clipped by a Carabiner to my Survival Belt. I like tge way my B M Serrated CSK feathers and actually holds a pretty good edge retention also. Infact both do. You did good. Dilly Dilly.,,.p
Loving the Final Fantasy OST tracks in some of your videos.
D2 isn’t a high carbide steel that a toothy edge would really benefit imo. Now s90v s110v m4 etc would Benefit from tooth. Don’t believe me give it a shot
Just watched the end of the video. Tooth will help. But you’ll see a even bigger difference on the steels I mentioned above
Would love to see you test the benchmade Adamas folder. Its also D2 steel and i hardly get it really sharp, thing takes a lot of work and gets dull kinda fast.
i have a d2 knife and i had to really make sure i got a good burr every time i flipped the knife from coarse to fine before it was any good and the first burr on the coarest stone took forever im thinking to try the diamond lansky set to speed up the process
I had kizer begleiter for about 65 bucks about 6 years ago and I was really disappointed, my free tiger for 25 bucks has better construction and what is important to me, about twice better edge retention. I test edge retention on cardboard, because I have a lot of it.
Steel doesn't matter a bit with a crap heat treat. The steel is the body, but the heat treat is the soul.
Title of song in background of rope test. Dark Mesenger from Final Fantasy IX
love the tests bro keep it up
I second that motion!
I'd like to know how Benchmade's D2 goes on the test, the Benchmade 275 Adamas is D2, and smaller knife like Benchmade sequel in D2
you may be creating a wired edge and then losing it while cutting the rope... you should strop off the wired edge then resharpen the actual edge
Probably pattern Kizlyar’s heat treatment to 38-42 HRC
Heat treatment is probably off.
Wonder if they overheated thee edge sharpening it from the factory? Usually any new knife I get I do not trust the edge until I have dulled and sharpened it atleast 5 cycles to get into the good steel....
Poor heat treatment.
Have had the Ken Onion Work Sharp for a month or so.. The dang internet told me that the convex edge is more durable and lasts longer than a flat angle... It made sense in my head.. less rolling of the edge because there is more metal due to the convex.... blah blah blah..
then I find this where I can tell FOR SURE that you know what you're talking about.
So is there any real advantage for a convex edge?
Thanks and thumb's up
I see you have a lansky strop. Do you find yourself accidentally biting into the strop often and tearing it up? I find it really hard to avoid doing this while still maintaining some reasonable speed in sharpening (rather than being ultra meticulous)
Hunter Cunning i did at first, now i go downward strokes only and its been awhile since i took a chunk out!
Hunter Cunning your supposed to strop in the opposite direction of the edge... Off the bevel not into it.
Yup. I just had the problem of going quickly, I would catch my strop a bit on the downstroke if I wasn't careful and where "down" was in relation to the curve of an edge bevel. Like I would have no problem at the beginning of a recurve, but as I came towards the belly and it curved out, it would bite a little bit into my strop. Trying to get a motion that doesn't do that quickly is difficult. Granted I stroke from sharpening notch to tip, instead of single strokes on a specific section of the edge.
maybe see if the steel rusts like D2 ?
I had a learning curve for my Queen Cutlery Oar Carver's in D2. They became one on. my favorite edges. Seems like improper heat treat. Or Perhaps you should have used the 12,000 grit water stone I've heard they are the cure for all ailments. ;-) LOL
May be a heat treatment issue on that knife or batch of knives.
Sad day when a good steel isn't working right. 👍😎👍
How do you know who to trust with D2?
I have a Boker Caracal flipper with D2 that seems to dull fairly quickly, I expected better from a Boker at that price point.
what sharpener is that? I need a better sharpener I have a CreeZy one with a V shape carbide blades that you cant adjust the angle. Some kitchen knives it works perfect but on pocket knives it just scraps up high and never touches the Lower V.. thanks for the video
this is redolent of my experience with various D2 blades. these days i'll see a seemingly great bang-for-buck knife option in D2 and i'll hold off, because y'don't really know what the ferp you're getting.
they fckd up the heat treat obviously
Hi, I was reviewing this video and would add my own experience...I have a SOG Terminus in D2 sharpened to a mirror at 17 degrees...even with light stropping the edge folds easily and with light work on cardboard,same happens. I have other knives in VG10 and the CJRB AR-RPMG which have far better edge retention,so is it the steel or bad heat treatment??? Ultimately I decided in investing in a Manly Wasp in S90v so I can have a siple,highly durable edge ,I don't have to be sharpening after every use and can be touched up with a strop...D2 no more.
We / Civivi test 59-61 Rc. Reputable knife makers have D2 dialed in 8/10 for edge retention vs top 10 blade steels, including the exotic expensive ones. Maybe you got a Amazon fake knife I keep hearing about?
Please do a Chinese Steel Will in D2 if possible. I think many people would appreciate it. It'd be refreshing if it's gtg because of all the Chinese knives claiming "D2".
Love your work...it's the gold standard of steels on YT.
is it possible that the steel is not AISI D2, but Cr12Mo1V1 instead?
Think ZT has stopped using elmax because they were ruining the heat treat with grinding, making the steel soft. My new 0450s all have s35vn. This is probably poor heat treat or maybe not even D2 at all...
There can be a number of things. But the more promanent is that HT of the steel went wrong no matter if its D2 or 440A per say. D2 on this sort of knife should stay around 59 - 60 HRC so the edge stays sharp for a long time. But there is a saying about D2 among knifemakers: D2 takes a terrible edge and keeps it forever. But that is not the problem here. Maybe they ruined the heat treat with the applying of the black coating if they were curing it at high temperatures... who knows. If I was you I would sand off one side of the knife and gave it to hardness test to somebody (if there is a toolmaker somwhere near you might have the tester). Anyway that is an actual problem. D2 just can not get that top notch polished razor edge due to its composition and grain structure but should jold that edge for at least 10m of that rope. Enjoy
Did you get it to that mirror polish with the lansky?
What’s the biggest blade you can do in that lansky sharpener? Would a 5” blade fixed blade work? Can you reprofile with it
I've done 5 or 6 30cm/12 inch blades on the lansky just fine. The stones on the other hand are very underwhelming. I did 2 5160 blades with an extra course diamond stone and the diamonds just got ripped out of the coating. They were handmade and it was the first sharpen on the blades
What is that instrumental songs name ?
You really like Final Fantasy IX
Ya my Benchmade with D2 still hasn't dulled . This company is not using real D2. Try Benchmade
Factory burnt edge perhaps