I’m with price I did installation for a while and something I always saw was overheating because it’s crammed into a space that’s not ideal. Especially with systems that require more than 1500 watts to run. You can’t slap a 4500 under a seat and expect it to run efficiently. This isn’t the 90’s where you could Jerry rig and have a wiring mess.
I hate when common sense doesn’t take its natural course and people expecting different results with the same outcome….. it’s truly the definition of insanity
With the awesome wireless bluetooth remote, it shows me the temp of the amp. Has to be the best feature, EVERY amp should have that. Thanks JP, I will keep buying your products. I got a JP34ab, a JP43. Looking into your lithium. You need to make a video on the basics of LTO and what options you are selling. Thanks JP!
I hat how people trash talk your amps,I've had 3 of your amps and NEVER have they got hot or went into protect,it's always the tools fault not the workers ,fucking annoying stupid people!!!
I’ll never understand if you don’t like the products? Why even subscribe to the channel? Guess this younger generation skipped class when manners were taught.
@rodmosier2695 i understand reading texts on the internet can be difficult. Jp has run crescendo speakers exct. for years. I have bought a lot of both products over many years, and I'm allowed to share my experiences. Have a nice day.
100% great video, JP :) All you need is 1/4" above & below the amp (like JP showed, D4S does 'lifted' mounting feet on some amps for airflow. Using crossflow or quiet brushless style fans in a push-pull manner w/ a thermal Auto ON/OFF module makes all of the difference. Yes, that can all be done for under $40 but what is your amp worth or a potential fire? Hot Amp=Less Efficient Amp.
I love my jp 23v2 it takes a 40 minute drive back and I think the fan has failed some how but fuck even with all that I still can’t get that thing to get hot it has a half inch lift with another jp amp on top my Skar amps would cook the jp amp just gets up to 100 at the worst full tilt but I’m not clipping either my jp 23v2 is the best amp iv ever owned and it’s one of the best investments iv ever had
The only thing I’ve noticed is the way the fan is. You can’t mount it upside down. It just sucks the hot air back in. But yes you should be aware of the air flow and heat.
2Jl1500.1's on the back wall of my 2022 Silverado with limited airspace for 2 years both run cool and never went in to protect. I tried a JP23 in the same spot and went into thermal protect very quickly.
When I first got my jp234 I mounted it flat on my amp rack and how hot it is in summer noticed the amp was getting way to hot so I made a stand for it to sit up off the amp rack kinda floating and it stays as cool as my bass amp now
Hey Jonathan does these amps have fans on the side of the amp. Most amplifiers I see would have fans of the side of the amp. Because most installs the amp would be mounted and screwed on the bottom
He doesn’t design his amps. He just uses the cheap China amp designs. Like skar, ct sounds and a few others. But most true companies have hand that blows air across the board. Common sense designs are above his comprehension. But he takes time to blame consumers. So many amps blowing up that he had to make a video. He needs to change the design. These old U.S. amp designs are old and outdated
Hey jp I could not agree with you more on this!! I admit I have my jp23 mounted on the back seat of my civic, BUT when I am playing the bass it is folded down and the sunroof is open so it can stay cool. Mine doesn't even get to 124 degrees on my bass knob if it does I open the back windows and right back down it goes.
Shit bro the D4S amp are bad ass bro u just got dumb assess hooking them up I've seen pic of guys only hooking up one power and ground on a jp83 saying it's not bumping right. No shit
What is a safe temp range for operation on a jp33? I have a 15 Yukon, it has the storage compartment built into the rear cargo area. The amp is mounted inside said compartment, it’s about 4-5 inches deep inside where the amp is, I will be opening up the rear chamber that the amp is in, I haven’t seen above 93 degrees Fahrenheit on the amp, but I’ve only had it installed for about a week now, and it’s been cold when I did have the amp at that temp, I had been driving for quite some time, and had the system about half way up, to 3/4 of the way up. Most of that time, it stayed around that 92 degrees, just curious where the temp range for safe operation is, Secondly, is there a way to adjust the blue tooth voltage on the gain knob? As it reads high I believe, unless my digital volt meter installed in the car and my multimeter at the amp both read incorrectly… I saw the video you posted on the gain know adjustment but this is a newer design, and as a result the hole On the gain knob is not present on mine
jp i buy from your shop but no lie i been scared to try an amp lol. we need a thermal resistance rating for amps. some ppl need amps that dont build much heat for the types of installs you mentioned. im sure some of your amp models run a lil cooler than others. put that info out so ppl select the right amp for the install bro. might help a bit?
Luckily in over 20 years of fooling with car audio ....I have never had an amp blow ....but I also have never bolted my amp down directly to something ....I always add some kind of "feet" between the holes for mounting the amp and what I mount it to ...usually try and get at least a quarter of an inch or more like to have a half inch or full inch if possible ....I have a 98 extended cab s10 project truck now and I have my amps bolted to amp boards so I can hide wires and have 1in high by 1 in round rubber "feet" spacers between the amp and mounting surface of the amp board .....but in alll my years of being a bass head ....I have found the cooler you can keep your components the better and louder sound you can produce .....cool amps and cool coils make happy car audio ....that and proper wire sizes....proper fuse applications ....and the age old saying it takes power to make power strategy will usually equal a quality sound from your investments .....being very neat and taking the time to solder and heat shrink the rite connection ends on your wires and even using wire sheathing can really make difference in current and out put ....but I am no professional by far ....but I have had 20 years of doing my own installations and each time I try and do a better neater job than the last ....but I enjoy the installation process ...so maybe that's why....I do have a question for jp .....if I run 2 of the new d4s 12s the dvx would I be better off to use 2 jp23v1.5s strapped or give each sub its own individual jp23v1.5....I already run 1 jp23v1.5 to a single 12 ....is the reason for my question ....
I don't ever have a problem with any of my amplifiers getting hot. I put my amplifiers on rubber standoffs for extra space for airflow and to help with vibration damage. And, of course, not mounted to the speaker box.
Provide offsets and longer screws for mounting. Update the owners manual for installing on these type surfaces. Saves user downtime and repairs. People will be dumb. Hence the need for so mantly warning labels.
my jp95 sub channel failed because the protection circuit never kicked in and did anything. The output went short and the amp didn't shut off it just kept outputting until the output blew and the current draw forced the amp to shut down. When it came back on the sub output was dead.
Also I see people get smaller amps trying to push it so hard when they should have got a bigger amp to run their subs 1500 watts on two subs that have a rms of 1500 each it's going to get hot.
Hey question what do you know about the epicenter by audio control, or do you have a product that does the same as that what you recommended. Because love listening to corridos and those don’t have bass so I need something to help it have bass without causing distortion.
Vent covers? Don't do that 😅 I like my jp23v2 but I hate my mm1005 because it doesn't have soft turn on/off circuit so it pops. Didn't know you can't just wire it up like a normal amp to the remote or 12v source. Still people argue it's normal but I've never had an amp do that. Thought I was going to another tier of quality when buying from d4s, but not for the mini max series.
@@Jaydogg209 I have the mm1000 same thing it pops from the inrush on the caps and a pop when you power off. It's not normal. I'm replacing it with a CT Sounds 1500.
I have a blue mini Max 1000.1 on a sundown Sld12 600 RMS in a S10. It's awesome an never had an issue. At the same time I use my brain ppl I cut four 2 x2 blocks out of a piece of MDF I screwed them down to another piece of MDF and use that as my mountain Gap for my amp to breathe
Its super simple to run amps at 1 ohm and have the amp lifted an inch or so that way the amp can breathe. Normally its people running under 1 ohm or ones that try running amp on stock electrical system and cause tons of voltage drop and heat. Get the proper electrical, and stop wiring in the dirt.
I have my Rockfordfosgate T1500 1bdcp mounted to carpet, under my seat. Barely enough room. Next to a lithium bank, with zero OFC all over them. Its been 7 years. Hmmmmm
1/2 inch legs and carve out the carpet. If it still overheats. Junk. If you're having issues perhaps put fans on the side like taramps etc. Plus make them substantially quieter. Noisy as hell.
i did reply .already my opinion . But thinking i have three different amps pounding bass for hours when i parked in the car at the park for hours. cheap hyfonics 3000k one 12 2000 watt rms jbl door speaker amp and beamus 3000k for my 15 2000 watt rms sub. Amp bolted down in the trunk on some non flame sound absorbing sheets. Amps are all cold even pounding slightly warm. Dont get the issue. Class ab amps get hotter when cranking that is my jbl . what do i know ? I did not spend 800 on a 3000 watt amp for the name brand
Not only smothering the amp but there’s so many videos and installs I’ve seen out there people demoing those amps and the volt meter is dropping well below 12. Low voltage = increased amperage draw = heat. Smh
Earlier you were claiming low voltage, now it is heat. I think you should contact bare vids to redesign your protection circuit. If anyone can he could. I am sure your gonna hate this comment like all my others...
Ok there must be a reason why facebook market place is packed with a lot of these amps that need repair. There are many well know amps on the market today some good some bad but they will last many years. My opinion also subwoofer amp is a sub amp if it puts out its rated rms power with out distortion. Look into beaumus on temu 120 bucks 3000 watts rms , Why spend 700 for the same power ? Nike shoes Vs walmart shoes . Both go on your feet My opinion
You should sell amp risers so ppl can mount their amps with a gap between the amp and the amp rack maybe that would help people that don't know much about car audio but for the majority of us that do know we have common sense but it would help others make their install better and keep their amps cool but thanks for all the vids and for ppl that don't know don't be afraid to ask questions you don't want your install go up in smoke literally but thank you JP for all the vids and for all the stuff u have in your shop great products at decent prices down4sound shop is great 👍🏻
I bought two 1,000 watt Minimax amps in 2023. The Box only had one sucker in it instead of two, that's the free gift you get with every purchase. Instead you should put half inch spacers in the Box for people. If you really want to try to fix the problem. Then there's also the problem that you did not talk about on the video that people try to run their amps at a lower ohm rating than it is rated for and the amps overheat. You know guys don't read instructions
Seems like a design flaw. Why are the fans mounted on the Bottom? Why is the top shell solid? If you want them mounted plexiglass side up or out as shown in your truck, why are the mounting tabs on the bottom? Just seems there is a better way to cool them.
You can't blame it on the install if anything it should go into protection mode if it gets to hot and not turn back on until it is cooled, just admit it they suck
Bro come on.. I had my powerzone CRUNCH grounded with self tappers and zip tied to the manifold and it never overheated. Stop making excuses for cheap amps.. - The typical JP hater
It’s truly sad how stupid people have become but why not simply include some mounting spacers or feet for the amplifiers and explain that if they don’t provide enough airflow they void their warranty. You can have this idea for free but I would accept something if you want to use it.
Mind blowing you even had to make this video.
I live in the Phoenix, AZ area. I've been installing my ams using 1/2 inch spacers for 30 years. I've never had an amplifier fail.
Me too
I like to wrap my amps in a thick wool blanket to keep em nice and comfy
😂 ✌️
I mounted my amps on a carpeted board so I made spacer mounts to raise the bottoms enough to get a finger under it.
Smart! That’s the way to go 💯 the vents on the bottom of the amp are there for a reason, installing them in carpet completely chokes them out.
I used 2 1x3 pieces of wood to give an inch of clearance under the amp. No heat problems at all.
Im glad you made a video about this! 😂
I’m with price I did installation for a while and something I always saw was overheating because it’s crammed into a space that’s not ideal. Especially with systems that require more than 1500 watts to run. You can’t slap a 4500 under a seat and expect it to run efficiently. This isn’t the 90’s where you could Jerry rig and have a wiring mess.
That extra rise that the amps have and then you add rubber feet makes a big difference…..that’s how I have my JP84 on rubber feet
I hate when common sense doesn’t take its natural course and people expecting different results with the same outcome….. it’s truly the definition of insanity
actually, that is not the definition of insanity... just sayin'..
Unfortunately common sense isn't common these days.
With the awesome wireless bluetooth remote, it shows me the temp of the amp. Has to be the best feature, EVERY amp should have that. Thanks JP, I will keep buying your products. I got a JP34ab, a JP43. Looking into your lithium. You need to make a video on the basics of LTO and what options you are selling. Thanks JP!
How are you liking the JP34ab? I'm thinking about picking it up
I hat how people trash talk your amps,I've had 3 of your amps and NEVER have they got hot or went into protect,it's always the tools fault not the workers ,fucking annoying stupid people!!!
Grammer NazEe here.... Gauranteed as well as blwoing.
Carry on
Never had that issue with my crescendo amps.
Which is why I’m really hoping Crescendo comes back into the game….😢
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Crescendo was better than these alibaba amps
I’ll never understand if you don’t like the products? Why even subscribe to the channel? Guess this younger generation skipped class when manners were taught.
@rodmosier2695 i understand reading texts on the internet can be difficult. Jp has run crescendo speakers exct. for years. I have bought a lot of both products over many years, and I'm allowed to share my experiences. Have a nice day.
100% great video, JP :) All you need is 1/4" above & below the amp (like JP showed, D4S does 'lifted' mounting feet on some amps for airflow. Using crossflow or quiet brushless style fans in a push-pull manner w/ a thermal Auto ON/OFF module makes all of the difference. Yes, that can all be done for under $40 but what is your amp worth or a potential fire? Hot Amp=Less Efficient Amp.
I got mine mounted on some Star board and have it spaced a few inches above that so plenty of air flow. No issues .
I love my jp 23v2 it takes a 40 minute drive back and I think the fan has failed some how but fuck even with all that I still can’t get that thing to get hot it has a half inch lift with another jp amp on top my Skar amps would cook the jp amp just gets up to 100 at the worst full tilt but I’m not clipping either my jp 23v2 is the best amp iv ever owned and it’s one of the best investments iv ever had
I always make platforms for my amps to be raised above the mounting surface,as well as adequate air flow all around it.
You should design a billet color matched bracket to mount the amp plexi out
Like a 2.5 inch aluminum spacer and 3inch stainless steel 1/4-20 nuts and bolts
Jp where did you install the amps in your work truck? I'm hoping the Silverados have enough room behind the seat
The only thing I’ve noticed is the way the fan is. You can’t mount it upside down. It just sucks the hot air back in. But yes you should be aware of the air flow and heat.
Indeed bro
2Jl1500.1's on the back wall of my 2022 Silverado with limited airspace for 2 years both run cool and never went in to protect. I tried a JP23 in the same spot and went into thermal protect very quickly.
I had same issue in a silverado got rid of that pile JP23 and got a different amp no more problems 😂
When I first got my jp234 I mounted it flat on my amp rack and how hot it is in summer noticed the amp was getting way to hot so I made a stand for it to sit up off the amp rack kinda floating and it stays as cool as my bass amp now
Hey Jonathan does these amps have fans on the side of the amp. Most amplifiers I see would have fans of the side of the amp. Because most installs the amp would be mounted and screwed on the bottom
He doesn’t design his amps. He just uses the cheap China amp designs. Like skar, ct sounds and a few others. But most true companies have hand that blows air across the board. Common sense designs are above his comprehension. But he takes time to blame consumers. So many amps blowing up that he had to make a video. He needs to change the design. These old U.S. amp designs are old and outdated
Can used rubber spacers underneath the amp mounting spots. For better air flow too.
Great video 📹 👍🏿 👏🏾 👌🏿
i just mounted mine to my carpet behind my backseats lmao ill eventually get like a spacer for it if it starts to overheat
Been running a jp23 at half ohm for over a year no problems
I’ve been running a jp23 at .5 ohm daily for about 6 months with no issues
Whats to best fans to use?
My Taramps been mounted to carpet for 4 years don’t have any heat issues 🤷🏻♂️🤣
You might want to include a ( Install a amp for Dummy's) book with the amps. Lol
Hey jp I could not agree with you more on this!! I admit I have my jp23 mounted on the back seat of my civic, BUT when I am playing the bass it is folded down and the sunroof is open so it can stay cool. Mine doesn't even get to 124 degrees on my bass knob if it does I open the back windows and right back down it goes.
Great video
Shit bro the D4S amp are bad ass bro u just got dumb assess hooking them up I've seen pic of guys only hooking up one power and ground on a jp83 saying it's not bumping right. No shit
Admit it though they ugly as Fugk and come in every color in the rainbow to match you all's pride subs
Any plans to put a fan on the jp284?
What is a safe temp range for operation on a jp33? I have a 15 Yukon, it has the storage compartment built into the rear cargo area. The amp is mounted inside said compartment, it’s about 4-5 inches deep inside where the amp is, I will be opening up the rear chamber that the amp is in, I haven’t seen above 93 degrees Fahrenheit on the amp, but I’ve only had it installed for about a week now, and it’s been cold when I did have the amp at that temp, I had been driving for quite some time, and had the system about half way up, to 3/4 of the way up. Most of that time, it stayed around that 92 degrees, just curious where the temp range for safe operation is,
Secondly, is there a way to adjust the blue tooth voltage on the gain knob? As it reads high I believe, unless my digital volt meter installed in the car and my multimeter at the amp both read incorrectly… I saw the video you posted on the gain know adjustment but this is a newer design, and as a result the hole
On the gain knob is not present on mine
You should put amp spacers with the amp when you sale them warranty void if not used 😂
jp i buy from your shop but no lie i been scared to try an amp lol. we need a thermal resistance rating for amps. some ppl need amps that dont build much heat for the types of installs you mentioned. im sure some of your amp models run a lil cooler than others. put that info out so ppl select the right amp for the install bro. might help a bit?
Bad electrical support
Wire strands touching
Soooo many poorly installed systems. Amps don't stand a chance
Damn, thanks for the video, damn. People come on . 😂
JP SPACERS WOULD GOOD IDEA TO SELL MATE 🎉❤
I literally mounted mine with an air hole on the board but the fan is kinda loud. Love the amp still❤
Mounting on a piece of wood or plastic is optimal for sure.
Luckily in over 20 years of fooling with car audio ....I have never had an amp blow ....but I also have never bolted my amp down directly to something ....I always add some kind of "feet" between the holes for mounting the amp and what I mount it to ...usually try and get at least a quarter of an inch or more like to have a half inch or full inch if possible ....I have a 98 extended cab s10 project truck now and I have my amps bolted to amp boards so I can hide wires and have 1in high by 1 in round rubber "feet" spacers between the amp and mounting surface of the amp board .....but in alll my years of being a bass head ....I have found the cooler you can keep your components the better and louder sound you can produce .....cool amps and cool coils make happy car audio ....that and proper wire sizes....proper fuse applications ....and the age old saying it takes power to make power strategy will usually equal a quality sound from your investments .....being very neat and taking the time to solder and heat shrink the rite connection ends on your wires and even using wire sheathing can really make difference in current and out put ....but I am no professional by far ....but I have had 20 years of doing my own installations and each time I try and do a better neater job than the last ....but I enjoy the installation process ...so maybe that's why....I do have a question for jp .....if I run 2 of the new d4s 12s the dvx would I be better off to use 2 jp23v1.5s strapped or give each sub its own individual jp23v1.5....I already run 1 jp23v1.5 to a single 12 ....is the reason for my question ....
I don't ever have a problem with any of my amplifiers getting hot. I put my amplifiers on rubber standoffs for extra space for airflow and to help with vibration damage. And, of course, not mounted to the speaker box.
Provide offsets and longer screws for mounting. Update the owners manual for installing on these type surfaces. Saves user downtime and repairs. People will be dumb. Hence the need for so mantly warning labels.
Almost need a do not do this manual in between that boxes so they have to at least touch it before opening the main amp box lol
Again, lol, it's sad that this has to be said.
Good luck on keeping your sanity bro!
Airflow and proper voltage / current available to prevent amp from clipping
my jp95 sub channel failed because the protection circuit never kicked in and did anything. The output went short and the amp didn't shut off it just kept outputting until the output blew and the current draw forced the amp to shut down. When it came back on the sub output was dead.
I’ve only dealt with amps the have fans/airflow at either end or top as the one that have fans mounted on bottom of amp
i do want to add the featured amp in this video looks like jp23s not 33s ?
My ruthless don't mind being on carpet
What dB u pushing ?
I mean thats why their is thermal protect... If the circuit was good enough, it would protect and keep the amp turned OFF before the amp fails
I remember blowing my first amp. That baby was banging.😂😂😂😂😂
Also I see people get smaller amps trying to push it so hard when they should have got a bigger amp to run their subs 1500 watts on two subs that have a rms of 1500 each it's going to get hot.
Hey question what do you know about the epicenter by audio control, or do you have a product that does the same as that what you recommended. Because love listening to corridos and those don’t have bass so I need something to help it have bass without causing distortion.
just buy an epicenter?
I really wished you used PC spec fans. 50mm and 70mm 😢 I wanted to swap them for Noctua silent pc fans. Those sizes arent available.
Can proudly say, I've never killed an amp in my life
Im sure safety circuits have saved almost all of them from thermal hahaha
Your electrical can also cause that.being not enough current to amp.
What else am I going to do with those stickers the amp comes with?
It doesn't come with stickers. I thought that too until I realized I was actually charged for them in the cart.
@@Jaydogg209 good catch forgot about that. So you have to pay extra for the vent covers.🤣
Vent covers? Don't do that 😅 I like my jp23v2 but I hate my mm1005 because it doesn't have soft turn on/off circuit so it pops. Didn't know you can't just wire it up like a normal amp to the remote or 12v source. Still people argue it's normal but I've never had an amp do that. Thought I was going to another tier of quality when buying from d4s, but not for the mini max series.
@@Jaydogg209 I have the mm1000 same thing it pops from the inrush on the caps and a pop when you power off. It's not normal. I'm replacing it with a CT Sounds 1500.
@Z_question so will a relay and a timer fix it?
Mostly because they are paying attention for voltage drops rather than enough amperage for the amplifier to operate correctly. 😮
I clicked on it because of the misspelled title 🤔
Ha! Blwoing indeed
Are all of your amps like that with that little space under them? I'm in the middle of putting together a system and have 2 of your amps in my cart. 😆
Common sense also helps.. I've never had a issue with my amps. Just goes to show 😎
I have a blue mini Max 1000.1 on a sundown Sld12 600 RMS in a S10. It's awesome an never had an issue. At the same time I use my brain ppl I cut four 2 x2 blocks out of a piece of MDF I screwed them down to another piece of MDF and use that as my mountain Gap for my amp to breathe
Also people wire below .25ohms 😆 I'm wired at .25 but one time I was wired lower and my amps would always shut off.
Its super simple to run amps at 1 ohm and have the amp lifted an inch or so that way the amp can breathe. Normally its people running under 1 ohm or ones that try running amp on stock electrical system and cause tons of voltage drop and heat. Get the proper electrical, and stop wiring in the dirt.
People don’t understand the outside of the amp is the heatsink or even know what an heatsink is in the first place 😂
Because there trash had 2 blow up in 6 days on 2 limitless lithium cyber 12ks and 3 400 amp alternators ur amps are trash they suck ass
I have my Rockfordfosgate T1500 1bdcp mounted to carpet, under my seat. Barely enough room. Next to a lithium bank, with zero OFC all over them. Its been 7 years. Hmmmmm
So you need airflow to have airflow? 🤔🤯
I’ve seen a lot of hate online lately and the amps even seen the video of someone taking jigsaw to their JP amp. SMH
Do you sell sound dampening feet?
low voltage pulls more amps and makes heat that kills amps
1/2 inch legs and carve out the carpet. If it still overheats. Junk. If you're having issues perhaps put fans on the side like taramps etc. Plus make them substantially quieter. Noisy as hell.
My amplifiers are raised half an inch above my floor.
Not sure if you know or not but your title to the video is misspelled unless it was intentional . Not sure but had to let you know.
i did reply .already my opinion . But thinking i have three different amps pounding bass for hours when i parked in the car at the park for hours. cheap hyfonics 3000k one 12 2000 watt rms jbl door speaker amp and beamus 3000k for my 15 2000 watt rms sub. Amp bolted down in the trunk on some non flame sound absorbing sheets. Amps are all cold even pounding slightly warm.
Dont get the issue. Class ab amps get hotter when cranking that is my jbl . what do i know ? I did not spend 800 on a 3000 watt amp for the name brand
Just call them a BIG DUMMY!! Aye it’s your money you are throwing away by not letting the amp breathe… Happy bassin’ y’all
What's crazy is that these amps come with a temp reader like you can literally read the temps The people not look at that or something
those amplifiers are the lungs to the system they need to breathe
Low to no air circulation or low impedance.
Dawg, the ones that get it, get it. I’m sick of these dimwits out here in audio who don’t know what they’re doing and immediately play the blame game
Heat causes problems for sho
Not only smothering the amp but there’s so many videos and installs I’ve seen out there people demoing those amps and the volt meter is dropping well below 12. Low voltage = increased amperage draw
= heat. Smh
Earlier you were claiming low voltage, now it is heat. I think you should contact bare vids to redesign your protection circuit. If anyone can he could.
I am sure your gonna hate this comment like all my others...
Ok there must be a reason why facebook market place is packed with a lot of these amps that need repair. There are many well know amps on the market today some good some bad but they will last many years. My opinion also subwoofer amp is a sub amp if it puts out its rated rms power with out distortion. Look into beaumus on temu 120 bucks 3000 watts rms , Why spend 700 for the same power ? Nike shoes Vs walmart shoes . Both go on your feet My opinion
You should sell amp risers so ppl can mount their amps with a gap between the amp and the amp rack maybe that would help people that don't know much about car audio but for the majority of us that do know we have common sense but it would help others make their install better and keep their amps cool but thanks for all the vids and for ppl that don't know don't be afraid to ask questions you don't want your install go up in smoke literally but thank you JP for all the vids and for all the stuff u have in your shop great products at decent prices down4sound shop is great 👍🏻
I bought two 1,000 watt Minimax amps in 2023. The Box only had one sucker in it instead of two, that's the free gift you get with every purchase. Instead you should put half inch spacers in the Box for people. If you really want to try to fix the problem. Then there's also the problem that you did not talk about on the video that people try to run their amps at a lower ohm rating than it is rated for and the amps overheat. You know guys don't read instructions
Seems like a design flaw. Why are the fans mounted on the Bottom? Why is the top shell solid? If you want them mounted plexiglass side up or out as shown in your truck, why are the mounting tabs on the bottom? Just seems there is a better way to cool them.
You can't blame it on the install if anything it should go into protection mode if it gets to hot and not turn back on until it is cooled, just admit it they suck
How people will invest all that money to have the best gear and then skimp on the install thought process is beyond insanity!!!
The only reliable amps are the ones idiots don’t touch tho it’s better your protection circuits stop it before the problem kills the amp
Indeed sad that this has to be made! Common sense people….
I have spacers under mine it's all common sense people!
Bro come on.. I had my powerzone CRUNCH grounded with self tappers and zip tied to the manifold and it never overheated. Stop making excuses for cheap amps.. - The typical JP hater
It’s truly sad how stupid people have become but why not simply include some mounting spacers or feet for the amplifiers and explain that if they don’t provide enough airflow they void their warranty. You can have this idea for free but I would accept something if you want to use it.