Climbing West McMillan Spire in a Day

Matthew and I climbed West McMillan Spire, the most accessible peak in the incredibly inaccessible Picket Range of the North Cascades. We started at 6:30am from the Upper Goodell Creek Group Campground just outside of Newhalem and ran about 4 miles along Goodell Creek. Then, a steep 4,000' climb through the rainforest and a long traverse along heather benches with plenty of late-season huckleberries to Terror Basin. We climbed up the slabs below the unbelievably steep South Face of Inspiration and made a short crossing of the eastern edge of the Terror Glacier then climbed loose rock up to the notch between Inspiration and the McMillan Spires. From here a short scramble brought us to the summit with incredible views deep into the McMillan Cirque. After some prime boot skiing we took a dip in a new glacial lake and hiked out to the car. About 20 miles and 10k of gain in total.

[@uptrack5235]

Great video! I like the cautious summit pose! Scary, but absolutely necessary!

[@rainerburgdorfer4017]

A serious hump! Great video.

[@jimmygodin7122]

Exquisite shoe skiing

[@pelagicsky]

Somehow only fans is leaking