Olight Warrior 3S swpped! (XHP50 3 4500K High CRI)

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  • Опубликовано: 6 авг 2022
  • I love the Warrior 3S light (see my full review here: • Olight Warrior 3S Ti F... ) but the CCT was too cool for me. So I swapped in a high CRI 4500K XHP50.3 from Mouser.
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Комментарии • 32

  • @TheSingularity8
    @TheSingularity8 Год назад +6

    Another way is to press the bezel against a rubber surface (like a tire or something) and twist. I've also done it against my bare thigh - this hurts a bit though. All these methods will dramatically increase the torque.

    • @cheule
      @cheule  Год назад +1

      Trust me, that’s the first thing I tired. My bezel was on too tight for that method.
      Thanks for adding it to the options, though!

  • @BullstrongDVM
    @BullstrongDVM Год назад +1

    Man, mad respect to you. The final product looks spectacular. Keep up the great work!

  • @artiet5982
    @artiet5982 Год назад +2

    Like! Respect for the work that went into this for you!
    Oh, and so glad you got a great Bin of 50.3, makes it even sweeter!

  • @GodPhazer
    @GodPhazer Год назад +1

    For this bezel just push inside your hand palm. It works.

  • @nomercyinc6783
    @nomercyinc6783 Год назад +2

    I think an emitter swapped olight baton 3 would be kind dope

    • @apcwjw
      @apcwjw Год назад +2

      I have little diffusers for my baton 3s , it’s a shame about the lack of neutral tint options as they are great lights.

  • @Philter-Coffee
    @Philter-Coffee Год назад +1

    No clue if it would work and haven't tried it myself but had a thought when you talked about trouble getting the bezel off. As you mentioned, the tricky part is getting the wrench to stay on and just grip the bezel. Too low and it grips the head, too high and it slips off the edge because it can't get any purchase.
    Whenever I have had to install rubber over something (namely a firearm grip) I had a similar issue with it gripping when I didn't want it to. You don't want to use lubricant as it would mean the rubber would never grip when you wanted it to (and ruin your strap wrench), but without any it would just get stuck on the head. After asking around at the time, I found loads of people recommended using a tiny bit of dish soap.
    When it's wet, rubber will slide over parts you don't want them to grip (for me it was the whole grip), but when it dries rubber will grip just fine.
    I noticed at the time that anywhere I missed with the soap, the rubber would get stuck. I found the best way was to coat the rubber and it was easy after that. I remember that if the rubber was clean and I missed a higher part of the grip, the rubber would slide on till that point and only then it would start to grip. In your case it might be worth putting some soap on a Q-Tip and running it around the head but not the bezel. The soap won't ruin the strap wrenches grip when it's dry, but when it's wet it will allow you to get a good purchase on the bezel while allowing the wrench to slip over the surface of the head.
    Just a thought for the future which may well be a crappy idea, but you never know, it may surprise you!
    Also - Keep up the great videos!

    • @cheule
      @cheule  Год назад

      These are great tips! Thanks for sharing!

  • @gregcushing1716
    @gregcushing1716 Год назад

    Thanks for sharing

  • @apcwjw
    @apcwjw Год назад +1

    Nice job 👍🏼

    • @cheule
      @cheule  Год назад

      I recommend this swap, mouser.com!

  • @ericward2005
    @ericward2005 5 месяцев назад

    How many lumen was it after the swap. I saw on your other video it got 2000 lumen before. Wornderin how much of an increase you got from switching. I have the aluminum and titanium versions and wish my titaniums were as bright or brighter than my aluminum version's, especially if it get better tint.

  • @zx-3948
    @zx-3948 Год назад +2

    I had no idea such a thing was possible. Personally, I have no problems with the light as is, I absolutely love it. However, why would you want to switch out the emitter? What exactly does that do, pros and cons and such?

    • @cheule
      @cheule  Год назад +2

      Higher CRI (better color rendition) and 4500K CCT is closer to “warm daylight”. The stock SST70 CCT is around 7000K which is uncharacteristically blue.

  • @naota3k
    @naota3k Год назад +1

    I did the same emitter into this light, and I noticed my moonlight is now SUPER low. Strange to see that yours was that visible on camera. Mine is lower than any of my D4V2s get now, haha. Otherwise, I absolutely love the light.

    • @cheule
      @cheule  Год назад

      How low your moonlight goes is usually a function of the forward voltage of the emitter. And unfortunately that can change from emitter to emitter is the same reel! So if it bothers you, simply try another swap!

    • @naota3k
      @naota3k Год назад

      @@cheule I figured that may be what caused it, but I'm not super bothered by it, and the beam shape is too good!

    • @Code325
      @Code325 Год назад

      I’m having a hard time locating that LED. Any chance you could send me a link?

  • @Gieszkanne
    @Gieszkanne 5 месяцев назад +1

    Great video good idea! I have a Surefire G2X and bought a bezel tool to remove the bezel. But its glued. They recomend to let the part of the head with the bezel in boiling hot water for 5 minutes. I have tried it several times but it dont move a bit. I have no idea how I could get it out. Do you have any Idea?

    • @cheule
      @cheule  5 месяцев назад

      Depends on the glue used. If it’s CA, you can get “Bob Smith Industries CA debonder.” If it’s loctite, I recommend using the boiling water trick, or a hot air station. Just be careful with a hot air station not to get it too hot and de-solder driver components.

    • @Gieszkanne
      @Gieszkanne 5 месяцев назад

      @@cheule Thank you for your answer and happy new year! After several tries I just let it soak inside a glas of hot water for longer. Of course just the top of the head. The bezel start moving after that. SF is quite different. The polymere bezel and lense is one part. The mcpcb was also glued inside the head no termal paste. Also its not soldered on cables. There are two kind of golden nails soldered on and you plug the mcpcb with them just into the driver. So I put the mcpcb on broad soldering iron to swap the led. But the soldered "nails" became lose and I dont get them fixed again. I dont know much about soldering. I must do something wrong.

  • @StrangeSwag
    @StrangeSwag Год назад +2

    i used the bottom of my mouse pad to get the bezel off, worked like a charm, but mine was AL i can imagine its a bit more difficult on the Ti models

    • @cheule
      @cheule  Год назад +1

      Speaking to Artie, we concluded the Al models were the easiest to open, then copper was harder and Ti the worst.

    • @StrangeSwag
      @StrangeSwag Год назад

      @@cheule yeah that makes a lot of sense, tough to get those threads right and i believe the Ti to SS Bezel isn’t the best interface out there haha ouch man

    • @noahgunter3621
      @noahgunter3621 Год назад +1

      Ha, just tried that and it worked like a charm

    • @StrangeSwag
      @StrangeSwag Год назад

      @@noahgunter3621 nice man!

  • @TheChilator
    @TheChilator Год назад

    Is it difficult replacing the bezel?
    I see what you mean about the colour of the light 🔦

    • @TheChilator
      @TheChilator Год назад

      Another thing I notice is when I’m using the torch to search for things on the ground there is about 1.5 foot focused beam of light
      Is this torch more
      Of a thrower than a flood light?
      Can you modify it to have a wider spread?

  • @lucasf123
    @lucasf123 Год назад +1

    So you did it 😁

    • @cheule
      @cheule  Год назад +1

      So glad I did. It’s a favorite light now.

  • @azael831
    @azael831 Год назад +1

    Double sided vhb tape.