+Eli Podoll its loose because the center link is in no way connected to the pitman arm. the control valve (kind of) is the end of the center link on the cars
How do you adjust the fluid flow through these? I got a 69 mustang and it darts all over the road, steers all the way to the right if you have your hands off the wheel.
I just replaced the control valve in my 67 Mustang. I just did what this guy did and replaced control valve and then hooked up the hoses the same way they were. Perhaps you don't have the right hoses hooked to the right places and that's why the fluid flow is bad?
Don't pickle folk on the control valve it will pull the stud out 99 out of 100 times, also that line adapter pushes the line out and binds on the pitman arm on a full lock turn.
YOU CANNOT USE A PICKLE FORK TO REMOVE A CONTROL VALVE. You will destroy the core. The 1971 Ford Factory Service manual which covers all models back to about 5 years, clearly states the use of a pickle fork to remove the PS control valve will damage the old valve. You must use a ball stud separator such as a tie rod end separator.
ABSOLUTELY RIGHT -- never use a tie rod end fork to remove one of these control valves. I've rebuilt 4 of these and it was easy to see that someone had used the fork on them. They were beat to pieces, warped and mangled. I had a hard time saving all of them. Had to replace some of the sliding brass sleeves and make the tubing extention housing round again and remove burrs.
Aren’t you removing it because it’s damaged and you’re replacing it? If you’re rebuilding it, it’s the same case, everything is going to be replaced anyways…
my control valve was not put in on the exact threading it was before it was replaced, is there any way for me to find out the exact position it is suppose to be in?
If you swap your CV and the steering flies violently to its stop on start up, you have crossed the short lines. Found out the hard way and there is not a lot of info out there..hopefully this helps someone.
Hey your my guy! Just got a 68 convertible l started it. And the steering wheel by magic spun to the left. I was geez, l never seen nuttin like that before! LOL! the guy put a new rack in. I knew he $//=÷#@! Up
@@royboy3597 Glad it helped someone. And I was glad that I did not reach through the wheel to start it up the first time as it spun so hard a broken arm or wrist might be the result. Fortunately, while it wakes you up quickly, I didn't have damage...just swapped the lines and tweaked the centering adjustment to prevent slow drift to one side.
Hey Randy, can you tell me which one is the pressure port and which is the return port (in the control valve). I can't figure which one is which. I have new control valve/hoses, so I have no reference
How did the steering feel after the installation? I am debating if I should attempt to rebuild my original or buy one of these. My dad bought one for his Mustang a while ago off Ebay and the steering is whack. It feels tight while turning to the left but completely loose when turning to the right.
Use only type F automatic trans fluid huh? How about using power steering fluid? That way you can easily tell what's leaking. Following is advice I received from Lares Corporation, who makes the control valves > "Our parts have modern seal material so we recommend using any modern power steering fluid as long as you stay away from anything that has stop leak properties."
if you want to make your own rules, go ahead. Ford states clearly only use Type F trans fluid. Seals, hoses, and components are designed to be compatible with it. If you want to make your own set of rules, go ahead. Might as well make you own rules for what goes in the crankcase and transmisison too.
@@chadhickey9942 "My own rules" concerning PS fluid have been working well for the 45 years I've owned my Mustang. It's the original pump, although I have replaced the control valve and hydraulic ram. I assume you use type SD oil in your 67 engine?
How is all the steering loose while putting the control valve back on the pitman arm?
+Eli Podoll its loose because the center link is in no way connected to the pitman arm. the control valve (kind of) is the end of the center link on the cars
Looks cool
How do you adjust the fluid flow through these? I got a 69 mustang and it darts all over the road, steers all the way to the right if you have your hands off the wheel.
I just replaced the control valve in my 67 Mustang. I just did what this guy did and replaced control valve and then hooked up the hoses the same way they were. Perhaps you don't have the right hoses hooked to the right places and that's why the fluid flow is bad?
Where is the video that shows how to rebuild the original valve? I searched your channel without seeing it.
+MrFuroius1972 We will have that up later today or tomorrow.
i have an original and it had no pin insert.....can i purchase on separately?
Don't pickle folk on the control valve it will pull the stud out 99 out of 100 times, also that line adapter pushes the line out and binds on the pitman arm on a full lock turn.
Having trouble finding adapter for pressure hose to valve.
YOU CANNOT USE A PICKLE FORK TO REMOVE A CONTROL VALVE. You will destroy the core. The 1971 Ford Factory Service manual which covers all models back to about 5 years, clearly states the use of a pickle fork to remove the PS control valve will damage the old valve. You must use a ball stud separator such as a tie rod end separator.
ABSOLUTELY RIGHT -- never use a tie rod end fork to remove one of these control valves. I've rebuilt 4 of these and it was easy to see that someone had used the fork on them. They were beat to pieces, warped and mangled. I had a hard time saving all of them. Had to replace some of the sliding brass sleeves and make the tubing extention housing round again and remove burrs.
Aren’t you removing it because it’s damaged and you’re replacing it? If you’re rebuilding it, it’s the same case, everything is going to be replaced anyways…
my control valve was not put in on the exact threading it was before it was replaced, is there any way for me to find out the exact position it is suppose to be in?
If you have it aligned they should be able to adjust as needed.
Hello friend, I have a question, what do you take as a reference to measure the inch and a half?
No torque specs?
If you swap your CV and the steering flies violently to its stop on start up, you have crossed the short lines. Found out the hard way and there is not a lot of info out there..hopefully this helps someone.
Hey your my guy! Just got a 68 convertible l started it. And the steering wheel by magic spun to the left. I was geez, l never seen nuttin like that before! LOL! the guy put a new rack in. I knew he $//=÷#@! Up
@@royboy3597 Glad it helped someone. And I was glad that I did not reach through the wheel to start it up the first time as it spun so hard a broken arm or wrist might be the result. Fortunately, while it wakes you up quickly, I didn't have damage...just swapped the lines and tweaked the centering adjustment to prevent slow drift to one side.
Hey Randy, can you tell me which one is the pressure port and which is the return port (in the control valve). I can't figure which one is which. I have new control valve/hoses, so I have no reference
How did the steering feel after the installation? I am debating if I should attempt to rebuild my original or buy one of these. My dad bought one for his Mustang a while ago off Ebay and the steering is whack. It feels tight while turning to the left but completely loose when turning to the right.
+MrFuroius1972 It felt very solid after I drove it, there was only a slight amount of play and that went away when I replaced the idler arm.
Use only type F automatic trans fluid huh? How about using power steering fluid? That way you can easily tell what's leaking. Following is advice I received from Lares Corporation, who makes the control valves > "Our parts have modern seal material so we recommend using any modern power steering fluid as long as you stay away from anything that has stop leak properties."
if you want to make your own rules, go ahead. Ford states clearly only use Type F trans fluid. Seals, hoses, and components are designed to be compatible with it. If you want to make your own set of rules, go ahead. Might as well make you own rules for what goes in the crankcase and transmisison too.
@@chadhickey9942 "My own rules" concerning PS fluid have been working well for the 45 years I've owned my Mustang. It's the original pump, although I have replaced the control valve and hydraulic ram. I assume you use type SD oil in your 67 engine?
The Music is nerve wracking and unnecessary
wow the music is terrible
Good video, but the rockin music is annoying. Any music at all is unnecessary.
What's up with the LOUD metal music during the work segments. Is everyone doing this supposed to be 12-22 years old, lol.
Interesting video, horrible music.