Landscape Photography - ND Grads vs Bracketing
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- Опубликовано: 27 май 2017
- Which is best? ND Graduated filters or bracketing. I head to a remote reservoir in Yorkshire to test out both landscape photography techniques.
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In this video I aim to find out if using physical ND grads is better than using the bracketing or HDR technique.
It is an issue I have been thinking about for a while. Partly because I often see photographers running workshops and convincing beginners that they need ND grad filters and then selling them a nice set of Lee Filters. In many cases people are people misled and I do not believe they are required thanks to the ability to use the bracketing technique.
This is not really a tutorial of how to use bracketing or ND grads but I do have other videos on the channel that will help you out. See the links in the video. I have been using bracketing for the last few years and have increasingly not bothered with the ND Grads. However I felt it was not time to test out this photography technique and see if it was true.
Many people seem to think that bracketing and/or HDR photography is cheating. They make claims like you should, ‘get it right in camera’. I do not buy into this. Ansel Adams said there are three parts to making a photograph. Firstly, it requires your visualisation of the scene and capturing it in the camera. The second part is the post-processing, the darkroom in his day and, usually in Lightroom today. Thirdly is the print. There is no such thing as an unprocessed image. A raw file is simply a digital negative that requires the addition of some processing to make it into anything other than a lifeless, flat image. If you shoot jpeg then the camera is doing the post-processing for you by adding contrast, saturation and sharpness. We only get into realms of cheating when we start to actually adjust the landscape itself, with techniques like cloning and patching etc. Post-processing therefore, is an equal part of the artistic process and bracketing and HDR are included within this.
There is nothing wrong with using Graduated Filters. If you choose to use them after some experience of creating landscape photography then I fully respect that. Personally though I believe they no longer serve a purpose. Given there significant cost, it is always worth people trying bracketing first. Even a single image, with a modern day camera like the Canon 5D Mark IV, will often contain so much dynamic range that using a software ND grad will be just as effective as the physical filter. Once you add in the bracketing technique of shooting multiple shots (usually 3) with difference exposures it makes the physical filter redundant.
There are pros and cons to using ND Grads. The pro’s are that you can get more right in the camera and be able to see, at the time of shooting, something closer to your final image. The cons are greater. They are a faff to use, they are expensive and take up more room in your bag. Bracketing on the other hand is done with no additional cost, it is easy and gives much greater control of exposure in post-processing.
Whilst the test in the video is made by looking at only one image it has only served to confirm my beliefs that physical ND grads are not required. If you choose to use them then I totally appreciate that but bracketing is definitely worth a try. It is not cheating. Processing of bracketed shots can be done using HDR or layer masking and both can work very well in the right situation.
The topic of filters is a real hornet's nest. The use of ND grads and polarizers have generated strongly divided opinions. My opinion is that you should to do what you want if it works for you. Why would you care what somebody else is doing? It is a pointless argument. People who get upset what someone else is using or doing just need to relax. Photography is an art. There is no right or wrong.
I agree. And that was essentially my message. I'm letting everyone know what I think and, at the same time, trying to help the new shooters from being misled into believing they MUST buy grads.
nevadaxtube - Well said
Fully agree
nevadaxtube agree
neva, 'photography as art' is only one of the many forms of photography. Don't pretend you can speak for the rest of us.
I personally dont see the point of graduated filters, but I have shot many images with screw in ND filters, and video with ND filters to control my dof whilst controlling video shutter speed.
I'm not convinced that your example really gives an ND grad a fair crack of the whip here. Looking at the histogram, you didn't even need to bracket, so there would be no need for a physical ND grad here and adding one with Lightroom would just be a personal preference. If you are shooting a sunset directly into the sun and want a long exposure as well you don't always have enough time if you're shooting 2 - 4 min exposures (because of failing light) to shoot a bracketed shot and to blend later, especially if you have a huge differential between a dark foreground and a very bright sky. A physical grad can narrow the exposure gap between the land and sky sufficiently to get the result you want in one shot. Another advantage is that if you have any movement in the shot i.e. clouds or if you accidentally move the camera between shots then there are none of the alignment difficulties you may have in post-processing. Just my 2 penneth!
Spot on :)
I think that was his point. Using ND filters to just darken the sky, not for rare cases. And even then, I'd get the image without ND filters because I don't want to carry them around and mess with them. And why on earth would you ever need to shoot a four minute exposure of a sunset? Even if you wanted to so something like blur water, it doesn't take anywhere near that long. All you'd have to do take two images, one exposed for the sky and one exposed for the water and combine them in Photoshop. I admit I don't use ND filters and don't really know what I'm talking about, but I'm having a hard time imagining a scenario like you described, where there is light from a sunset yet you still need a four minute exposure and a ND filter would get it done in one shot.
Seascapes often have a big difference in exposure which can be dealt with with a ND grad enabling a single long exposure, rather than blending two or more images afterwards, although even using these isn't enough when your collection of filters is limited and the exposure difference is more than 2 stops. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a user of ND grads for the sake of it and I only have a limited collection of a 2-stop hard edge and a normal ND filter, which happens to be a Lee Superstopper, but there have been situations where the sky is quite static and only an exposure of several minutes will get noticeable movement. Water needs far less time , of course. I am aware of Photoshop stacking using many images, but it is not a technique I have investigated yet(maybe I should) and therefore have to work with my current skill set. I think the point I was trying to make is that you use what you equipment and knowledge you have, but if you're going to demonstrate why you don't need an ND grad, then you should do exactly that.
Ade Pollard Very good points. ND grads and stoppers are for the most demanding and artistic landscape photographers. If you are serious about landscape photography you will end up buying a stopper and a polarizer eventually. That can also run you quite some money for good ones and most likely you wont be able to stack them. I believe that grads are particulary usefull when comebined with a stopper. For a sunset and sometimes a short oppertunity of time you would just like to have your camera and settings ready and take pictures. Lets say you want to take a sunset exposure of 15 sec which is reasonable and bracket that shot. It will take your camera 2 stops of time which is 1 minute just for the over expososed picture which is useless anyway. I could have taken 5 sunset pictures in the total bracketing time when combining a grad with the stopper. Also you tend to lose some contrast and a lot of colours when you bracket for extreme scenes.
Ade Pollard I couldn't agree more with your comments. For me, photography and making an image is all about the craft. It isn't a simple case of "using a grad etc" it's knowing which grad to use and when to use them. I don't like having to rely on a PC to make the image when I have the opportunity to do so in the field.
My final argument is that if the likes of Joe Cornish, Jeremy Walker and many other fine photographers then it's good enough for me!
I have just recently purchased a DSLR and have used both ND Grad's and bracketing for the first time. I much prefer bracketing because it is less hassle, more fun in post processing and I prefer the outcome of the images. I just want to take a second to thank you for your help, it was your videos I watched to gain the knowledge of bracketing.
In this situation no bracketing or ND grad are needed. Try demonstrating in a situation, where the brightness of the sky differs a lot from the ground (eg. sunset). Otherwise, this video is not representative of the techniques you are trying to illustrate...
I agree with your concept. I just bought my first set of filters a year 1/2 into learning photography. I recommend you don't mess with them until you know exactly how to use your camera and compose an image. The only real reason I got them is like whatThomas Heaton says, I just hate sitting around editing photos and would rather spend more time outdoors. Great Video!
As a complete amateur I use both hardware grads and bracketing. Both have their merits but I find with the hardware I can see the result I'm after in camera immediately and not have to wait for software on a computer to create things for me.
Enjoying the videos, keep them coming.
In your very commendable effort to explain why all images need some processing I fear you are guilty of throwing out the baby with the bathwater. The whole concept of your comparison is wrong, firstly you don't need to bracket or use a ND grad for this particular image and secondly you cannot compare a physical ND grad directly with a software ND grad using the same settings in Lightroom. They are completely different things with many subtle variables. Your reluctance to use a software grad on your filtered image is also false as processing does not end just because filters are used and each RAW image should be assessed and processed on it's merits.
Still useful comparison 3 yrs later. Happy to have found it.
Ha thanks. Interestingly it's something I'm still questioning
only been shooting in raw for about 14 months I love the lightroom part it's so satisfying seeing your image come alive the secret is knowing where to stop and getting the image as near, as when you seen it at thectime great video Adam. I'm experimenting at moment with grads
Sometimes adding or taking away from an image isn't "cheating." Once, I got up at 4 a.m. to photograph a hiking trail through the woods at a local park after a fresh snow. I arrived, hiked through the snow to the spot, was in the process of setting my tripod and camera up when a woman (who for whatever reason was trying to jog) ran right around and through the area I was obviously trying to photograph. I was so pissed. I took the photo anyway of course and cloned out her footprints in Photoshop. And, honestly there really isn't any right or wrong or cheating, etc. Photography is an art. If a photographer wants to take a picture of a landscape and then mess around and change things in post, then there's nothing wrong with that, imo. It's their artistic vision. Unless you're a photojournalist, documenting a crime scene, etc., there's nothing wrong with editing how you see fit.Technically, for the people that say someone's "cheating" by doing this or that, I'd say that using a filter on your camera is not better or worse than making the adjustment in post.
Man that sucks, I would have done the same thing.
@@jochie18 You have also to remember that there is no "real" version of an image.
It does not matter if you take digital pictures with different cameras, take photos on film or just look with your eyes. There will always be a difference because at the time you see it it alread has been altered either by software, by the camera, your eyes or by your brain.
I am very new to photography and can so well remember that in the past I was often disapointed by photos I took since the scene looked so much better with my own eyes than it did on camera. Our eyes have a very good dynamic range and without filters or post pictures in high cotnrast scenes are often unusable while on the same time the scenery is gorgeous with my eyes.
It is the same with a slight overcast. You are at a location, the scenery is breathtaking, you take a photo and it looks shit because of the white'ish sky and the lack of contrast. Without editing or filters your pictures will not look like you would have seen them with your own eyes.
I'm sorry - but that is cheating. If you are doing something digitally that you could not have achieved with a film camera - it's cheating, pure and simple.
I'm not sure that these were the right conditions for such a test. The straight up shot and the ND Grad shot, when unprocessed, have a much more natural sky. If you had processed the water and the mountains and left the sky as is, I think they would have made better photographs than the merged shot. I know it's all subjective, and that everyone should do as they wish, but I do think that an ND Grad (or more then one) are great to control the exposure in high dynamic scenes. It doesn't mean that you can't process them again (or even bracket for more dynamic range and blend later; using grads and blending are not mutually exclusive). The problem I have with HDR is the lack of contrast in scenes. A neat blend of two or more exposures is much better than simply merging all three shots in HDR software. IMHO.
I'm not sure why you think the Lee (or other systems) are a faff. Using a circular polariser and an ND filter together is only possible with such a system??? But I do agree, the price is often prohibitive and a waste for people that are new to photography.
Anyway, enjoying the vids.
Hi Adam, your videos are getting better and better each time. I like that you have strong opinions on subjects, but put them forward constructively so as to explain your own methods and not discount anything by telling viewers not to use certain methods or gear. I personally struggle with landscape photography as I don't have the money to spend on filters, so it's nice knowing I can get the same if not better results using in-camera/editing techniques (although I've also been told I'm useless at seeing good composition). Please keep the great videos coming.
Thanks Adam. Really appreciate the comment and I am glad you are finding the videos useful. In terms of strong opinions though......who on Earth told you you're useless at seeing good composition???? It's nonsense, it's a skill that can be developed with hard work and time!!!
I was tempted into using ND Grads after attending a course but I've reverted to applying them in Lightroom. I find that the results are equally as good, if not better and if you get it wrong you can always step back and try again. It's also a lot easier in LR than faffing about with holders and bits of glass. I still occasionally use them but normally the only physical filters I use now are my original screw on circular polarisers, and 6 and 10 stop NDs for long exposures
I don't quite understand why you bracket then add a software ND Grad
Adam, I use grads because they help me to get a much better feel for what the final image will look like whilst I'm on location. I'm not adversed to a bit of selective dodging and burning to lighten or darken certain parts of an image in Lightroom but when I combine images it feels like I'm giving too much control to the software. I would like more control over the 'strength'; to be able to control how much is taken from the over and under exposed images. I have in the past blended different exposures together using layers in Photoshop, selectively increasing the opacity of the top layer to revel parts of a brighter exposure underneath. This I feel gives me the ultimate control and results in a final image that is more mine than it is Adobe's if you get my meaning. Bit of a bloody faff though mate!
Thanks for the great videos Adam!
Yes, my opinion on ND grad filters has changed. I have them, but have never used them, and I see that I don't really need to. If I don't have to fuss with them, so much the better! Thank you for doing this video!
Good video, I was gonna buy filters but will wait for now. I notice you did not address “in camera HDR “ which works well for me. Your thoughts?
I like your straightforward approach and frank views. Having only recently returned after many years of taking snapshots to the world of true photography, I find bracketing and post processing graduated filters where appropriate to be my preferred tool except when it comes to moving water. Plan to try merging multiple images and comparing to ND shots on my next excursion.
In most of my landscape shots, I use 2ev 3shot brackets, and I like the result I get from it. I generally use my ND when I want to get longer exposure motion blur for water or a moody effect with clouds.
That's great Adam I was wondering why Tom was always so keen to slap on his ND filter rig and now I know you don't have to carry all that kit around with you. I do enjoy the circular polarizer I think it works magic. Thanks again for all your hard work and advice.
+Drew yung Kwei Thanks mate. Like I said it's each to their own but it's just not always a necessity. Using the screw in filters for solid ND filters and circular polarisers is simply my preference.
Great video, holds up 3 years later for sure. I have been torn on whether I should be investing in filter kits to stack grads with other ND filters. I have have used screw-on filters but cheap variable nd ones I haven't had much success with. I have always used bracketing as well but want to start taking more long exposure stuff so looking at some 10 stops and after this video I feel good about sticking with the screw ons and using software grads. Love your content, keep it up.
Hi Adam, another great vlog on a subject that's really key to my photography at the moment. I really appreciate your explanation of different techniques and there pros and cons to each. I do agree that filter systems can be sold as the solution to beginner photographs problems when understanding the camera and how to use is the better starting point. Keep up the great work as your channel is one of the best on here (in my opinion that is!!).
Thanks Robert. Really appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment. I also feel that your opinion carries a massive amount of weight!!!
Excellent vlog. I'm trying to decide if I should invest in grads I've only got the 0.6 hard but I think I might just bracket and keep my ND's for long exposures.
Nice! Didn’t realize it was so close between the two techniques. This is a money saver since I don’t have any grads yet. Thanks!
Adam
still watching the back catalog but wanted to say that so far Ive been picking up not only good advice about taking images, but advice about kit. Was looking to purchase some ND filters but will hold off for now as I think I need to learn more about my camera (5d Mark II) and experiment with lightroom more as well.
If you want to do long exposure then you will still need a solid ND filter. But the ND grads - I wouldn't bother with until you've seen exactly what RAW files and Lightroom can do.
Little and Big stopper it is then. Thanks Adam
I was wondering have you ever try bracketing in the middle of the day by using CPL filter? Is is better or waste?
Great video! You explained it perfectly, just like you would one on one! Perfect!
Thanks for the great video Adam, I learned how to use bracketing from you and am still using the technique whenever I can and/or need to. I would like to own a ND grad setup in the future, however there is a limit to what my bag can hold. Until that time I'm using bracketing all the way.
Thanks mate. Always appreciate your comments.
1. Your explanations are refreshingly simple. 2. I have been struggling with 2 sunset shots (different locations) for about a year now. 3. My personal conclusions are: If time and returning to the same location are on your side, TRY BOTH ND GRAD FILTER AND BRACKETING. Do not mix the 2 during same shooting sessions. 4. I am shooting for my book. QUESTION/HELP: I understand that it is the TIFF version that is required for prints. On the other hand I read an article that said TIFF is a lossy format. WHAT IS THE BEST FORMAT FOR PRINTS, please? Thanks and warm regards from Mauritius.
Excellent video. Couldn't disagree with anything you said. Like the way you clearly pointed out that all those people who brag about getting it right in camera don't really understand what they are talking about. Ive never considered an ND grad since I started using Lightroom. Keep up the good work- I look forward to watching your videos.
just by watching this im glad i havent gone and wasted money on a nd grads filter
, shall try brackting next time im out. my mate over at beating the broom wagon mentioned to check your site out and im glad i did
Excellent point about processing. I enjoyed that.
I fully agree with your comments. I see it this way, the very first settings (exposure triangle) are the beginning bits of manipulation of any picture.
It was a good test and I personally appreciate the time you took to do it. As "The Avid Amateur" I am always on the lookout for nonsensical testing which tells it like it is. Your opening comments were especially appropriate and well received by those of us who are amateurs and know our limitations.
Great stuff Adam, you just saved me a fortune on ND Grads. I will still get some ND filters just not Grads. Great video. Thanks..
Hi Adam,
Yes, thought provoking. I purchased a Cokin filter set in December but not had chance to unleash them yetI have a two week trip around N. Scotland in a motor home (Hebrides + NC500) coming up in a few weeks so I will try a test for myself and let you know my thoughts. Great video
Majorfstop
Adam, great video guide. Question though, What ND filter did you use ND2, ND4, ND8.. I love using a CPL filter and it is generally my go to filter for landscapes. I do carry ND filters, but have not trialed them as of yet. I do believe it is all about preference and what you want to convey about the scene.
After watching this video and reading a lot of comments below I am more confuse about the topic of ND filters. Can you replicate this video using a longer exposure with a ND vs without one?
Thank you, I so agree with your conclusions.
Hi Adam really enjoyed this one very helpful and me I just enjoy what I do
But if you use the in camera bracketing does it not turn it to a jpeg?
The individual shots will be RAW files if you are simply bracketing with a DSLR. Auto HDR modes will produce jpeg files on many cameras/phones.
If you combine the RAW files into a HDR in Lightroom it creates a very large DNG file with all the data in it.
First Man Photography yes I did know that but I was not sure that was understood by the video. Keep up the great videos I look forward to the 360 views every week.
Great look at Grad ND filters. I was about to shell out for some new filters, but having played around with bracketing in the past I may hold off for now as I completely agree with you. Is there really a need for filters when bracketing a post shot processing can achieve the same?
I don't think so. Its a personal choice using them but definitely not a requirement.
Hi Adam, very helpful video. Thank you.
I do both and I have to say if you shoot where the wind blows you'll need filters, if you shoot still air, yes if you want to bracket then do it. There are reasons to use both and I believe you should always have a kit that have all the tools needed to do the job in any situation.
Great video, I agree. I dont often put any thing in front of my lens! Less weight and stuff to break, drop, forget as well. I dont see that a bracketed shot is HDR when its a stop either way.
+Mark Bray Thanks Mark. I agree with you too. HDR is not the name of a photography style. It is simply a description of the large range of light being captured. Giving it that ugly 'HDR look' is down to the post processing.
Just a novice photographer here. But, my thought was that an ND filter is for when you are in extremely bright light and you can't achieve the correct exposure at desired f-stop. So bracketing isn't an option. But i enjoyed watching the comparison demo. Interestingly, i preferred the shot with the ND filter, it looked less of a harsh sky transition. Please keep up the good work with your interesting videos.
I use ND grads and polarizers because I like to get it out of camera and do as little editing as possible. New cameras have such good dynamic ranges but the filters give you more.
Again so impressive
Most interesting video, Adam. I know you are not a fan of ND grad filters and prefer bracketing and I quite understand why. I personally prefer using the filters to bracketing, rightly or wrongly, and will continue to do so, maybe to my own detriment and bank balance!! Thank you for your great input. Always appreciated.
Thanks Tony. I don't think ND grads are wrong, just no longer a necessity. My intent was not to convince people to stop using ND grads, just to highlight the differences so people can make their own choice. Really appreciate you sharing your thoughts.
First Man Photography maybe it's my lack of Photoshop expertise!
I have 58mm, 67mm, 77mm, and 82mm ND grad filters--all 0.6 (2-stops). AEB simply doesn't work with film. You can join scanned images of film, but might as well be shooting digital in the first place if you're going to do that. These filters fit all my Pentax 67 lenses and Fuji view camera lenses. Round filters, with a soft boundary work very well for me, but I have a Lee kit as well, which contains some neat effects I apply here and there.
Since color photos work on color perception, where a big palette of colors (billions) brings effective "realism"--I like digital a lot. But film does have a thousand times the resolution, and it's a better tool for black and white photography. I find 2 -stops of neutral density to be about right, but also have a Lee kit and adapters for more refined control and occasional color effects.
My biggest negatives are 5x7 inches (so is my enlarger). A lot of people have never seen a large format print, or they wouldn't say the things they do. To large format photographers working in 4x5 the idea of HDRI falls under the heading "twice nothing is still nothing". Come what may, digital is still an inherently low-resolution medium. It's certainly got enough resolution for commercial destinations. HDRI is useful because the detail falls off more rapidly than with film and both highlights and shadows may be sparse. Algorithms that combine images are pretty impressive, but they're not perfect, and there are occasional unnatural effects, or digital noise--which is just awful.
The whole sensation surrounding HDRI is mildly amusing. The thing artists are looking for, another bucket of fine detail, is the reason millions of people continue to shoot film. It's really a distinctly different art form but thrilling detail is precisely what most artists are looking for. Some would also say silver-based printing is also much more pleasing to the eye, with far better archival properties.
I have a degree in computer science and love the whole digital fandango. Digital can never replace the sumptuous quality of transparency film, or the remarkable universe of black and white film--but it's a fantastic art form by itself with enormous creative potential. Use digital for what it does best, and the same for film. If you want high dynamic range, use and HDR medium (film). HDRI or grad filters do not expand dynamic range, they shrink the range of contrast by selectively re-mapping tones.
Keep it simple! Want high dynamic range? You only need it for high contrast subjects. Use film. B&W is great (10 stops of latitude) and some color films are not bad either (5-7 stops).
For transparencies, break out the ND Grad trick, and get back 2 stops. But watch out! All HDRI techniques are a blunt instrument, which can produce unnatural effects, leading us to failure. One of the things that makes photography a challenge is getting what we see (15 or 16 stops of contrast) on to the shorter range film, or digital sensors. But the sky is not falling! If you screw it up, try again. This how visual artists learn.
Anyone using a Sony A7 or 6000 camera should look into Sony's fascinating App for HDRI which can be downloaded into the camera. I find the results quite amazing using a Sony A7ii. There's a small learning curve, but the Sony HDRI app is the best thing since apple pie, allowing artists to manipulate the contrast range of scene with remarkable dexterity. If you want to work fast, a round glass ND grad 0.6 will do the job well 90 percent of the time--and I prefer glass over acrylic filters (Lee).
Your videos have come a bloody long way mate
I dont have any filters at present and have been using bracketing with Canon 80D. Definitely need a Polariser. Up until this video i was looking to buy the lee 100mm deluxe kit but at over £500 its a lot of money. Now im on the fence, do i really need to shell out over £500 when i use lightroom grad filters now anyway? Living by the sea I would like to get into long exposure so will need some stoppers of somekind. Thanks for the enlightenment!
Great vid. I would have liked to see the same text on a sunrise as i use filters so the sun is not blown out. I know you can HDR then but the difference between each shot tends to be more dramatic, probably more stops between to get the foreground and the sun just right. I often wonder about different types of filters, i use cokin, kood and gobe and can not tell which is better quality. Gobe is quite cheap and does colour cast but it's easily sorted in post. I use a screw on 10 stop and find it so annoying when you have to take it off each time to change focus. I always struggle to find somewhere to quickly put it down and it ends up in my mouth :-)
nice vid but it missed the point :) do this again on a sunrise or sunset image.
I think this has changed my view, being a novice. Will try bracketing from this point forward and add filter if needed within software. Good video, well presented.
Keith
Another great video, I do a bit of bracketing was wonder is there a reason why you go 2 stops each side?
+Brendan Roche In this case I did that because I was using the 2 stop ND grad so I wanted a direct comparison. Normally though I judge it on how much dynamic range I require in the shot. Like on the last video I did three stops either side because the dynamic range was huge.
Two works well for me on the majority of occasions.
Awesome explanation..this guy is a genius...pure unscripted knowledge...keep up the good work brother
Beautiful and useful video.
Great video! I don't have grad filters and I was planning to buy one in the future. Interestingly enough, I had started to use bracketing specially for shots with the sun in the frame, to reduce the burning of the highlights and then I was adding some software graduation in Lightroom. I got some good results with that and after seeing your video I realize that this option is more versatile (you can adjust graduation, the position of the filter with your final image and in a big computer screen). The doubt that I have is if creating HDR in Lightroom somehow degrades the sharpness of the image. Do you have any data on that? On the other hand, I can imagine that adding a physical filter also affects the image quality since you are adding a glass in front of your lens. Interested to know your opinion. Thanks for the video!
Just so I'm clear on the concept of bracketing. The focus point does not change, so you don't expose for the sky and then expose for the foreground. The bracket shots are just a couple of stops apart from each other. Do I have that right?
Great stuff Adam, you have a super way of putting stuff across in a simple style which otherwise baffles me when I read it elsewhere.
As for NDs etc, I will give bracketing a go for a while and report back at some point.
Please keep up the good work.
Where’s the info re the Ebook ?
Bill Stewardson
Sheffield.
Thanks Bill. If you head over to my website at Firstmanphotography.com, hit the store button and you can download it from there.
Just come across this video. I have just recently invested in a couple of ND grads and a filter system after years of going with the bracketing approach. Personally I never really got to grips with the bracketing approach. Quite often, I've found that the darker shot of the three gave me enough dynamic range to use just that one exposure for the highlights and just lighten the shadow areas. But on occasion where I couldn't use one single exposure, I've again only ever used two of the three bracketed exposures - one for the sky and one for the land. I always end up discarding the third altogether. It's for this reason that I prefer to use the physical grad filter and keep as much dynamic range in a single exposure as I can. A few other reasons is that I get fed up with scrolling through loads of bracketed shots in ACR, especially when I've taken the same bracketed shot a few times with some minor adjustments. And that the bracketing method takes a lot more time in Photoshop and ACR to build an image. If I can get as much dynamic range in a single exposure, I can do basically everything I need to with ACR's sliders and also adding a software grad if necessary. So yeah I'm all for the flexibility in the field that the physical grads provide, but I'm not against using bracketing (I have needed to a few times even with a 3-stop grad filter) or software grads at all.
I would say that it's not the weather that makes the picture it's the photographer. A good photographer can turn any picture to a good one, and any newbie can make a good picture from a perfect condition.
I'm with you on this one! long exposure is where its at!! and bracketing will save some money in the long run!. I have a question though unrelated... that f stop bag you carry what model is it?
Hi Adam, I'm with you, I did thing about a grad filter, but how often is the arisen straight and now trees. Bracketing gives a more realistic sky.
Cheers.......Peter.
Hi Adam, I think you articulated very well the fact that photography has always relied on "post processing". I have had countless discussions with people regarding the suggestion that using Photoshop (or whatever) is cheating. In my view, it certainly is not cheating and is merely a modern version of darkroom processing, albeit with many advantages! As for physical v digital filters, I think both are fine. If you like using filters, great. If you prefer using software, that's fine too. It just comes down to personal choice and preference..
Great videos, really enjoy watching them.
Hi Adam,
Another informative video, keep them coming - I’d really like to hear the settings and methods you use on your 5D4 for your time lapse work.
I used truck loads of filters ($$$) in my film days but for me now with huge raw files I only use ND filters for long exposures and all the rest happens in Photoshop (thank goodness).
Photoshop is really nothing more than my old, dark, smelly (and expensive) darkroom on steroids but with the bonus of an “undo” function.
Cheers
How would you bracket with a nd (long exposure) filter?
+Lee Murray I don't often do it because I don't want to wait. My long exposures are usually in the 3-6 minute region.
It can be done though. Just work out the exposure times two stops apart and then shoot them manually.
It all comes down to being properly educated. Then you can make your own decisions as to what suits your style of photography and post processing. There are people who shoot hdr monstrosities and there are people who prefer to use filters. I don't think there is a right or wrong answer in this case. But I do agree with what you said about selling gear to beginners who don't know what to do with it. In additions our decisions relate to the people who have taughts us photography and the way they have influenced us. This plays an important role too.
Good video!
I use a lot of bracketing, but there are situations where a ND grad system is useful.
But I agree with your point. Advanced filter system is nothing newbies should invest in. Detailed knowledge of the histogram and light conditions are key before you should start using filters. I invested in a polariser at first. I very much like the saturation you get with that.
Great advice mate!
Which brand of ND screw in filter do you use?
+David Brown B&W and Hoya
This is an old argument Adam, on the one hand you have very good software to take care of just about everything in post but then you have those who see photography as a craft. By this I mean it something that gets under your skin and you feel the need to use every tool to reach your aim. I understand pro,s wanting to save time but when you enjoy your hobby you want to get as much out of it as you can and exploring everything about it. Still a good video and it is up to the individual to make their own mind up, keep it going my friend.
I LOVE using my Formatt Hitech 100x150 grad. I prefer dialing down sun and sky on location. I get a better and more efficient photography experience. Lately i have been doing more single exposure images (rather than bracketiung my butt off like i did when i first started!!), so for me the hardware grad is essential in getting the right exposure.
As u say u r not used nd grad filters but I saw in ur long exposure photo tutorial u used nd filter.. I am confused.. What is the difference between nd grad u talk about in this video and nd filter u used in long exposure tutorial and also give the link of the filter
What are you using to merge the bracketed images? I know Lightroom can do a pretty good job these days but personally, find that Photoshop still does it better. If one is hand-holding, or it's winding, ghosting occurs and it seems Lightroom can't really handle any serious ghosting. I tried using it recently and even on high, it did nothing. Photoshop got rid of the ghosting instantly. Love to hear more about your process. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for this Video Adam and for saving me some money, for now anyway, had been looking at buying into the Cokin system and getting ND grads, just because that's what landscape photographers do but you raise very valid points, I have 6 and 10 stop nd screw ons for my long exposures and a variable nd which is pretty useless to be honest, getting it right in camera basically means nothing as we all post process in some form or other, keep up the good work.
I love your RAW T-shirt are they still available?
I am new to photography. I had a Canon 1200D as a gift a few years ago from my wife. Since the start of lockdown 1 I have been watching your RUclips channel and loving it. Really enjoying getting to know how to use my camera. Got the bug to be honest. Steve
Very informative - excellent!
Thanks Rick
so when u shoot seascape photos and you shoot at 30s or more in bulb mode how are you gonna bracketing your shot? ND filters are the way to go
Good advice. I’ve always liked the idea of ND grads but never mastered them. They are essentially a hangover from film photography and used to be a kind of art form in itself. I guess technically not necessary in digital. However, it is all preference and whatever works for people. I guess more can be done in camera with filters to cut down post processing time....for some.
Another great video Adam. Subscribed
Thanks Graeme. Glad you appreciated the video and i am chuffed you have subscribed.
Great video mate, thank you. I personally like the idea of grads, but with them being so very expensive the choice is really an easy one . Given an uneven landscape, the advantage has to go to bracketing, which is no such limitations and the saving could go towards a lens. Also I don't understand the squeamishness that many people have about post processing, I've always considered it as part of the process. It's nice to see that one of the greatest thought so too. Maybe it's the idea of having to learn the tools for post processing that scares people, but there are so many good learning resources around, I don't think there's any excuse really.
Hi Adam, I have a LEE Big Stopper and a LEE .6 soft grad nd filter. I use the Big Stopper quite a lot but I can count on one hand the amount of times i've used the grad filter. I bracket shots and find I get better results.
You will get the same outcome as the physics doesn't change.
I am new to all this. However, isn't it weird to compare a 2 stop grad. filter with a bracketing of 4 stops (+/- 2)?
Thanks for another good video. Just my 2 cents however, I like the ND version.
I understand what you are saying but I feel that ND, graduated ND or even polorizing filters, give you so much more control of your camera (shutter speed, aperture and ISO) and ultimately create the photo you want. I think where bracketing falls down is when there are subtleties in a subject (like waterfall) and you'd have to take 5 or 10 photos for it to work. Filters are a tool, pure and simple, and in every profession they are there to help you and save you time.
Have never seen this method explained for landscape, always seen folks using the mounted filters. Have to give it a try, I do think a polarizer is warranted though when shooting those water shots.
Does bracketing use 3x the SD card space?
I think a good reason for using a ND grad filter on the camera is; when there is wind that causes movement between the bracketed images. like flowers in the fore-ground or something. but then there is exposure blending (luminosity masks), but I'm horrible at it so..
I think bracketing and post production works really well in landscapes. Can hold more dynmic range and with grater control.
If you are shooting people next to a landscape or something in VIDEO mode, which is more and more the case, ND is pretty much needed if you want to get certain type shots like for example, person in focus and background out of focus. Because for video you need the 180 shouter angle and you usually want wide open aperture for separating the person from the background and only way to get less light in, is with ND filter.
For static subject in photography like landscape, yeah I think no problem. Post production works well.
I think it really depends on your subject whether bracketing, or ND grads are better. If you're shooting on a windy day and have some foreground detail being blown around, trees at the side of the frame for example, then bracketing isn't going to work. The combined images won't line up correctly. Grads are better in that situation, but otherwise I think I prefer to bracket, it's just less hassle.
A great example for using bracketing over ND grads, is when having the likes of buildings on the horizon. You don't want to darken buildings and that's why I prefer bracketing. I'm also a graphic designer of over 6 years and for me, Photoshop doesn't intimidate me. I've had a few photographers say to me that they're not proficient enough in Photoshop, so they rather the grads. But it's only layer masks, it's not like you're trying to create a skeuomorphism metallic logo.
For me, I want firstly, what my eye can see, not what the camera can see. Secondly I want to make the image work, so if that means adding an orton effect to give the sun a stronger glow or enhance the power. I'm also a drummer of 17 years and if photographers were only shown a glimpse into the post production involved with music production, this wouldn't be as big of a topic.
Nice, challenging assumptions. If it looks good it works, go with that. nice one Adam!
each to their own and ultimately all gear are just tools to do a job and there are many ways to achieve similar results. i agree with you that there are plenty of people holding workshops that are fleecing beginners. Personally i only have circular 95mm poloriser and a 95mm 10 stop ND with step down rings , as i cba with the faff of square filters, if i have to i bracket and im quite happy with the results. To me all my gear are just tools to enable me to work. Light, composition and mood are way more important to me than the tools i use to achieve this.
Nice video but I agree in those shooting conditions you wouldent need to do either, grad filters come into there own when you have a high contrast scene, I used to bracket but now I use filters I much prefer it that way, I can get everything done in camera without spending too much time at the computer.
I’ll be honest it’s made me want to buy nd filters the sky in that software one has a hellish dark heavy steep fall off the nd grad one looks like a nice flat even shot to start with and then work in post. Each to their own though, thanks for the vid
I think you should have been testing this around sunrise or sunset straight into the sun. If you do so than you'll find that these filters are really useful. They are quite expensive indeed but you'll see no colorcast with them. And from the example photos you showed, there was no need for a nd filter in the first place. The dynamic range is not really affected.
i've been doing bracketing with nd filters.. both screw-on and softgrad cokin filters. nice clouds and soft waters ;)