I really appreciate the time you put into making this video! I am a mechanic but have not had the pleasure of tapping a lot or thread repairs. I also don't don't remember helicoil or timesert alot. This helps me (& I'm sure others) understand what it takes to get into head jobs & even pricing to be prepared & not lose my shirt as I am also mobile! I really love your informational style & not making a 3 min videos about repair. I also send my customers to you channel (if they question my prices or just want to learn what it takes). You are the best, Eric O!
This was a great video. Thank you for sharing this. It’s nice to see all of the steps. Also, thank you for “keeping it real” from admitting at the beginning that you were nervous, the three phone calls from the kiddos, dropping the plastic drill bit guide...oh, and actually reading real directions. Truly an inspiration!
I been using a kit NS 300 being a machinist for 35 years and the kit was made by one been on spot on never a problem and solved the oil problem. Been buying these car up for 100 dollars and making much in profit thank you Toyota
Farmers get attached to their rides and animals I know I'm a cattle farmer I got a farm truck 90 chevy k10 wore out 10 years ago also got some cows same way I spend money on old truck just to keep it going use it every day just like an old pair of boots feels good.
Apparently there was a recall on these rav4's - from a software glitch from the factory where these engines were produced, that caused this damage of over torquing the head bolts during production.
the 2.4 is horrible for 2 things, burning oil (oil return holes plug up in the pistons and end up blowing by the rings into the combustion chamber, and head studs pulling out due to a poor engineering design (the bolt only grabs about 1" of aluminum, so over heat cycles it weakens the threads and rips them out, leading to blowing coolant out)
@@braaapattack2937 I have an 02 Camry 2.4, 180k miles -I just put a whole bunch of money into..replaced water pump, serpentine belt and tensioner, etc etc.. is this problem common enough to where I should get rid of the car? I've seen many more 250k+ mile 2azfe Camrys than ones needing repair lol
Just did this sort of thing on my BMW M54 engine, only I skipped the TimeSert kit with the alignment plate and just used my drill press (the block is on the stand, I'm doing a rebuild). Pretty dang easy that way. One thing I realized is I could have probably drilled those bad boys out hand held because the drill bit will tend to self align. If ya think about it, you're drilling into a nice big ready made pilot hole ya know? I could be wrong there but that was the sense I got. I primarily used the drill press because the timeserts needed to be inset about 7mm below the deck in my case and I just wanted the ability to repeat that depth with a larger size drill bit using the stop on the press. Anyway, great job on demonstrating the $450 kit method!
Absolutely loved it. You're the real deal. Problems arise and you solve them one at a time. One note Eric, cutting oil as used on cast iron pipe is not your best choice for aluminum. Cutting oil has sulfur in it as that's needed when working with ferrous metals. Aluminum actually cuts much better with WD40 or kerosene. Beolube works great too. This car should be a treasure chest of videos for you. Now you can show us how to put the head back together and all that other good stuff.
Ahhh great information. Geezz that panther pee had a main ingredient of kerosene. Had no idea about the sulfur, great now you guys are gonna pick on me lol. So what is the purpose of the sulfur? I assume a lube. Cheezy Dee just told me about the special "aluminum" tap magic. _"Now you can show us how to put the head back together and all that other good stuff."_ Mmmmm maybe...
South Main Auto Repair The aluminum Tap Magic is great. Relton also makes a cutting fluid specifically for Aluminum called A-9 which might be even better and I personally think is the best. WD-40 and kerosene has been used for years with aluminum and works very well and as you know both are available anywhere. Sulfur is used as an Extreme Pressure Additive. When cutting ferrous metals it prevents welding and galling of the chips to the cutting tool.
As a machinist I can tell you that for aluminum we-40 is the best tap fluid because it is light and doesn’t let the chips bind up under the tap like a heavy tap oil will that can really make a mess of the threads when they gall up the hole. The dowl pin. A reamer that size to clean up the hole and then it should be a press fit in maybe with a little lock tight and bump it back in to the hole. Once it’s lined up straight just don’t let it get crooked.
In states where cost of living is low I can see how you can make your living like this. Here in California it's not possible. Most mechanics know this and take advantage. Eric and other RUclips Automotive greats have taught me how to do 90% Of my automotive repair work. I cannot say thank you enough for that.
1AZ-FE engine. Toyota increased the head bolt holes thread depths on blocks made after late 2006. There is a TSB for engine overheat, coolant loss from head gasket, loose bolts as the root cause. Nice video.
Yes 2AZ also. Sorry I thought it was a 2.0! Both blocks are effected the same. TSB calls for a new short motor. (Obviously not an option on older stuff, this was when the vehicles were in the three year warranty)
hello guys i have question.my friend came with 06 camry with p0016 code.he put new crank sensor cz it was open (earlyer).it was late so i did,nt check the timing before call cam sensor its bad.i have plan to check that vvt filter too.solenoid looks fine.have 220 000 km in the car.i dont know wich motor.( 2AZFE?) looks burning oil nicely.(pcv was,nt too bad)he using this car 6 years ago changing oil twice year (high milage syn castrol or others) the question is can i see the gap between t chain tensioner and levers from the top?.(i think yes.) aw job Mr.O
Clearly this video is from before you started doing the dramatic shot of the brake cleaner, you mentioned brake clean and I was waiting for it the whole time, and then it never came! massive anti-climax hahaha
Great job! A little tech tip that was shared with me, when marking depth on drill bits, etc. a piece of electrical tape instead of marker will survive the wd-40 & cleaners. A good quality red tape is even better. And as a personal preference, I use electronics cleaner instead of brake cleaner to avoid eating up any surrounding parts. Just my 2 cents worth, thanks for the video!
Crazy how successful this channel's gotten. I've got a 2AZFE with this exact issue and if I didn't live 17 hours away, I'd definitely be brining my car into you. Keep up the great work!
i've done this on a toyota 2.4 three times, and never did the outside 4 holes. if i remember correctly, you are ONLY supposed to tap out and use the inserts on the inside 6 holes. something about tolerances and the bulletin stated that.
If youre just losing a little coolant when its fully warmed, many times you can just put longer, fatter bolts in the back side. There's an extra half inch down there. Buy the "2AZFE repair bolts" on eBay. 2.5 hours, cam comes out of the way but you need to have or fashion a long probe to release and hold the tensioner.
Why not a better explanation of how they work? Do these bolts cut their own threads or what is involved in rethreading the block? Better explanation than "fatter longer" is needed!
There are virgin threads below where the factory head bolts stop. Instead of paying 600$ for either 1 of the 2 insert kits u can but the longer bolts on ebay that go deeper than the stripped threads and into the virgin threads without having to drill and tap the block. Hope that explains it a little more clearly.
Eric, this one made me laugh. Dropping the insert under the car, then the comment " be coming out in the oil pan right away". plus the kids calling. man that video was a grande slam bottom nine, world series. And now I know i'm not the only one belly crawling under the car to get my parts back. Great vid, has to be my favorite.
As long as when you drop your parts and they fall in the middle of the car... am I right!? That is where they always go... or option 2 you never see it again haha.
@@Bighead-he8zb my 2001 ford focus has eaten several things, I just recently found a 10mm socket, its been hiding for more than 2 years behind the engine.....
Here's an idea to avoid removing timing cover for a head gasket job. You will have trouble doing head bolt inserts next to the timing cover with this method. You would need a super long drill bit and extension for the tap. There is only one bolt you MUST remove under the timing cover which bolts the top of the exhaust-side chain guide to the head. Remove valve cover. Set crankshaft to TDC and confirm camshafts are at their colored-link timing points. Remove the camshafts. After you have the camshafts out, you can support chain with a wire so it doesn't skip a cog on the crankshaft and then I was thinking you could get a 10mm deep-offset box end wrench onto the bolt hiding behind the chain guide or possibly make a special tool by welding a 10mm wrench to a short 12-pt 10mm socket to get behind the chain guide. What do you think about that? Is there enough clearance inside the timing cover? Also need clearance inside the cover for the bolt itself to be completely unthreaded. If not enough clearance, unscrew the bolt as much as possible and then cut off the head with a hacksaw - keeping rags in the timing cavity to catch debris. Remove rest of bolt with fingers or bendable grabber tool (??). Cut replacement bolt short enough for reassembly since bolt need to be shorter - use locktight since we're guessing about a shorter bolt being OK. When removing head you might need to “bend” the chain guide out of the way a little - hopefully the part can tolerate a little flex - if you break it you’re back to removing the timing cover. At reassembly, run a borescope down the timing cavity to check the alignment (pink) on the crankshaft cog and check the alignment at the intake/exhaust gears are aligned with the yellow links.
Hey Eric, more RUclips authors should do more of the kinds of Long and in Depth Auto Repair Videos like the one's you Produce, Keep up the Great and Informative Videos man!
Did this on a couple of Northstars (my brother's caddy's). Naturally, being V-8's, the motors had to come out to do it. First motor went well. Second one, I was torquing down the second head, on the final pass of of one of the last bolts and the block cracked open. NEVER again...
I bought that same kit for a Toyota Camry. I got the car for free from mother in-law. A month later it was leaking antifreeze and did some research and it’s a known problem that the three center back head bolts strip out. The kit worked awesome.
Eric I have done them on Norstar Cadillacs don’t worry about the drill when you start it take it down until it fills up and clean it. The reason the head bolts come loose is because the heat and the pressure on the head the aluminum gives up after a while when it gets hot from the heat and the pressure on the cylinders they just turn loose Cadillac is notorious for this thanks for the video I appreciate it I enjoy watching your videos tell Miss O and the family hello thanks CK
Hi guy - I used this and a few other videos to do this same job on a 05 Toyota Camry- I bought it knowing the head gasket was blown - I rebuilt everything - had the engine bored and everything - I found that someone had already put helicoils in the back 5 holes - the problem with helicoils is that the installer is not long enough to get way down in the bolt holes - so the mechanic ahead of me cut off the back 5 bolts and they were ok - so I did all the holes in the front - everything went fine with reassembly- the only odd thing I noticed was the holes with the helicoils would not torque with an even pull - they wanted to pop when they got tight. The thread certs pulled to torque smoothly with no issues - I built this care for a disabled friend and it was my first Toyota- I was totally impressed with how close the specs were on those little power plant - however if you replace any main or rod bearings do not buy aftermarket - I found that the Chinese after market bearing shells were .001 too thin - so when all your deminisions on your components were correct the oil clearence was out of spec by .002. Live and learn I guess - the time cert is spendy but lots of these small cars use this 11mm head bolt...
Hey Eric love the Channel! Just wanted to give you a big thank you for making this video series. I completed this repair with the help of your video a year ago on my sister’s 02 rav4. She’s still running like a top and I used the same time-sert kit. I do all my own repair work and I called a local shop for an estimate for this job. All of then refused to take on the job and just wanted to source a motor from a junkyard! Glad I found this video and took this route. Thanks again brotha and happy new year to you and the sma fam!
Eric I love your videos. You might be able to remove those hollow dowel pins by filling the cavity in the dowel pin hole with grease (it can be melted). Then with a punch or bolt that just fits inside the dowel pin drive the pin into the grease and the hydraulic action should move the pin. Hope this helps I’ve used it on pilot bearings etc. and it works well. Many Blessings to you all, David
Thanks for your vids. I'm an Oldsmobile man myself, and my '96 POS is as hard to work on as most of the cars/trucks you do. I have a '75 Cutlass I'm restoring - there's room under that hood to house a family of 4! Keep your vids coming - they make me feel better about the problems I've been having...
South Main Auto Repair My '75 was a Virginia car - lots of rust. I inherited it, so I decided to go for it. I live in Texas, so my other car has no rust - just no room to work...
A friend of mine bought a Camry that needed a head gasket job.I saw your video but he took the car back so I didnt have to try it.Thank you and thank God I didn't have to get stuck with that job and my buddy didn't get stuck with the stripped head bolt thing that Camry,Im guessing probably had.Also everybody get saved and stuff in case this Corona virus thing kills us all.
i wish I had your patience. With the sirens, traffic noise, and repeated phone calls, I would have bit that tap in half!!! Man that guy must love that RAV4!!!
Having done this with some NorthStars it's intimidating at first. What I've learned. Tape everything up like Eric did so the chips don't end up in the wrong places. Use slower drill. I took one of the ends to my Craftsmen Shop vac and drilled a hole in it for 1/4 brake tubing. I took a cheap air blow gun and drilled and tapped the end for a NPT to 1/4 brake fitting and screwed to the end of the air gun. After drilling the hole, put the end of the shop vac attachment over the hole turn on the shop vac then stick the air gun with 1/2 tubing on the end down into the hole and blow the chips up and out of the hole. After drilling and tapping I would use a non-flammable brake cleaner, (Eric's favor brand of course) to clean out the holes so the loctite wouldn't have any issues with contamination and again use the shop vac and air gun with tubing suck the stuff out.
tool & die maker we used keen certs for years they had four small pins that u drove down thru threads to hold them in. Good job but very labor intensive
Eric, you have the Right attitude when taking on a challenging job as you have, first time around is always a worry, but you have the patience and the right temperament, I would take on anything too, well almost anything, but the interruptions. Would try me out, but I know you adore your family and yes your putting your priorities in the right order, love your videos, Rob from Ozz
Hey Eric. With your attention to detail, you would have made a great engineer. Nice work and amazing how you can stay through all of it with all the distractions going on. Going to check out #2 to see how the dowel pin worked out.
Eric love your videos sir. I did do one of those same engine head job a little bit before you made this video. One of the tech's at our shop did an ac job on the car and supposedly did not adequately fill the coolant afterwards. The customer ran it full hot until it wouldn't go. I was the fortunate one who got to do the repair. The customer was wanting it ready super fast, my boss didn't want me to spend a lot of time on it. I'm sure you know how I felt having never done one of these. I had trouble with the dowels between block and head, long story short I think I was so pressed for time I left one dowel out and there was a small oil leak. Three of the ignition coils were toast and no one wanted to pay for those. It ran fine with three new ones. Owner of shop let his insurance get the guy fixed up with another car, but the guy kept the car of course as all it needed was three coils and a small oil leak which I didn't have the chance to look at the car anymore.
Dropped objects always come to rest in the least accessible location. I once said this out loud and the person with me at the time looked at me like I was nuts.
Nuts or not Stephen, I agree with you 100%. If it can roll under the bench, or become stuck in some unbelievable location within the engine compartment, that's where the critter will go. My best memories involve nuts and screws that I dropped inside tinware on VW engines back in the day. Cheers from Indonesia.
If it is an 04 Rab4 you would think it would be cheaper to throw a junk yard engine or just junk the Car. I'm sure with the price of the strip down, the tapping and rebuild would come to more than the value of the Car. I get your nerves and I thank you for releasing this warts and all. Great video Mr O.
I once installed the head gasket back to front on an old 1999 Toyota corolla when I was a first year apprentice, haha puked coolant and oil out the side of the block. oops. then I quickly took it off flipped the gasket because it was metal and used the same head bolts. swapped it in 2 hours lol. it hasn't leaked up until this day and still running good
I did the same thing once, but on an intake manifold of a 1988 Isuzu Trooper, realized my mistake when I started it up and the coolant gushed out...this occurred at 3:30 pm, the customer was in transit, and needed the car that night, I got it back off( had to remove these super long studs to get manifold to slide off sideways, the head kept hitting the inner side of engine bay,) and put back together correctly, finished it by 5:45 pm, boy was I pooped that night from the hustle !
I remember a recall while working at a chevy dealership in the 80's Wrong type of headbolts broke or streatchedwhich caused head gasket to blow or warped heads....Had to do a few even though I was the shops only alignment tech.....I didn't stay on that job long even if they did sponsor my late model stock. That red loctite is almost as good as sleeve retainer loctite.
Eric, when I did this I used a shop vac while drilling and that sucked up the loose chips as I drilled and evacuated debris in hole, just a tip, I am not in your league, great videos, THX.
I love your work and your videos. I personally would have not taken any chances. I would have drilled and taped before the head work and cleaning up just in case I hade to get a motor from the junk yard. You said it's burning oil maybe the junk yard would have been a better choice
Eric, I'm a retired cop and I do IT Security for a living... Just a heads up Microsoft XP is no longer supported. Time to upgrade that machine to Windows 7 or better yet Windows 10! :-) You should be OK with XP if the box is not connected to the network for the short term. By the way I'm really digging your channel. I've learned a lot as I do alot of DIY repairs on my own. Jim
@@BogusJesus Well I'm cutting Eric a break since the video was made back in 2015! Eric, if you have your ears on keep up the great work. We all appreciate your viseos and the effort to put forth to keep us shade tree mechanics informed!
Not for head bolts ,but have used Time-Serts before and they are good . Also when i worked at a gravel pit , we used a lot of Keenserts there . Which are more like a HeliCoil but only different . I see XP back there
Oh yeah I am still rocking XP out in the shop. I have a brand new windows 7 comp in the box on the bottom of my roll cart but just haven't made the swap yet. Shop computers don't last long and I get brand new ones for a hundred bucks. Can them every couple of years. I tell ya this one has been hanging in there pretty good though.
South Main Auto Repair I still have one xp running . Not sure what all you install on new ones , but i do have a list of Free programs i install on customers computers if ever interested . To bad you could not put in different room and just leave keyboard and monitor in shop.
South Main Auto Repair Would you feel better about windows 8 if it started up at the desk top like xp and win 7 does and not the tiles page , and if you could have most of the start menu back
I would and I do because that's what I Did ;) I am sure the tiles and apps are fine on a touch screen but on a desktop it's awful. I don't mind it so much now but I am glad Microsoft is letting every one upgrade to windows 10 for free :)
Always better to be cautious and Patient then go hog wild while drilling out threads to put a insert in a head good work Eric O as Always @21:23 @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
next time try the shop vac on the chips...they get all over and can chafe hoses and cause mayhem and trouble for the customer down the road... nice video.
I think the reason for the head bolts seeming to crazy tight is because the aluminum on the "block" bonds to the steel that the bolts are made of. sometimes the threads on the aluminum will attach to the bolt and rip apart. I love your videos btw.
Commonly known as galvanic corrosion - a reaction between two dissimilar metals. There really is no other choice for fasteners here, it's steel or stainless steel. The salts that develop really do bind things together! I had a Fiat many years ago that had this problem with the brake bleed screws. They became part of the caliper. No way you were turning them out.
Why do so many of these head bolts strip - good question. The rule of thumb for a steel fastener threaded into aluminium is that the thread engagement should at least 2-3 thread diameters for the joint to develop full strength when properly torqued. For a fastener going into steel, it is about one diameter (i.e. the thickness of most nuts is just about one diameter) because steel is stronger than aluminium From what Eric showed, the bolt appeared to be engaged to around three thread diameters and so I suspect that the bolts were either over-torqued at the factory or the metallurgy of the aluminium blocks was not up to snuff (ie. it was too soft).
I had a guy come to my shop. He had over heated his honda so he wanted me to put new rings bearings and head gasket. I got it all done and went to put the heat on, and it had been so hot it annealed the block so bad it stripped ALL the head bolts. I Heli coiled all the bolt holes. What a fun day that was.
should of just put some tape on the drill bit to the length needed , then trusted your ability to be able to drill straight, we all learn by our mistakes but we also learn by trial an error, trust in yourself an your ability,s an you,ll always come out on top ,,,, cheers keep up the good work .....
Great info, thanks for doing this. May I ask what one should expect to pay for such a repair? I ask because by 03 Camry, 4 cylinder started leaking a lot of water and coming out the back of the engine like this Rav-4
Any concern with unequal torquing if only some of the holes have the coils and others don't? I might be inclined to do all the holes rather than just some to keep everything the same. Actually, I would have taken the block to a machine shop, really, but still same rationale.
That was plaguing me that night Matt so I actually come back in part 2 and do all the holes haha. See we think alike :) Machine shop!? Pff you get one of these in I can make you a sweet deal on a 1 owner low mileage kit...
South Main Auto Repair Toyota T-SB-0015-11 Says never do insert work on the two bolt holes at the front and rear of the cylinder block. But they also say to do all six in the middle regardless of condition.
After completing installing the insert, you might use that little T-measure to verify that the top of the insert is 3" below the surface, like the original threads.
My first tip is to use a longer extension turned around or keep going with the square drive. As far as the dowel. If it was me I would see if There was a way to nurl part of the dowel or even the hole. The hole would be easier. Use a center punch and make 3-4 equal distant punch marks in the aluminum block. This would raise the metal some thus making a tight fit. Its only there for the head gasket/ head alignment..
I did this one time on a 01' jetta with 150k miles and i actually found a cheap engine in great shape with 67k beforehand and the owner said he wanted it fixed because some other mechanic had botched an engine replacement on his other car and it never ran well so now he doesn't trust that solution, i should've said take it to another place and pay my diagnosis
The head bolts fail because of the lack of amount of Threads used and The hot and Cold cycles from the head makes the Head Bolts Brittle Eric O @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
If I could give you one hundred thumbs up I would eric your channel grew on me i started watching here and there but now i watch all the time great job you have a great attitude and you seem like a great dad and husband ...........
We will be coming out the oil pan in a little bit! That made my night I almost fell out of my chair laughing thanks Eric I needed that I was thinking the same thing watching how deep that drill bit went!!
My guess as to why Toyota had problems with those 3 rear bolts stripping, they over torqued them in the factory. You described the force you had to apply to remove the front bolts. It's only aluminum. Perhaps the rear had lower thread count than the front (i.e., less thread area.)
Just watching this years later but I have done a bunch of those inserts and I never turn the drills that fast. Slow and lots of torque. Those bits are very very sharp and they won't stay that way turning it that fast. Perhaps you have learn this by now??
I always like watch your videos I do think alot of time you are too hard on your self you do great work and care I'm a diesel technician and you teach me a lot of cool stuff that made me better at my job thank you for that
On early 911 air cooled engine, the head bolts will pull out of the case and the only way to repair them was to insert a timesert. Worse case was if a head bolt would snap inside the case. You couldn't drill out the old head bolts because they were made with a special metal called dilvar. You would basically have to use a electro arc to burn them out.
Did 2 caddies with the Northstar motor. First caddy went well, second one the block cracked as I was torquing down the 2nd head. Of course, the engine had to be pullled to do the repair kit, and I was out everything. Never again with a Cadillac.
Hey I'd love to work in a shop just to learn hey I wouldn't even take a wage. I'm super anal though , OCD or is it CDO - I'm like crazy picky it just hast to be done right , never hear me say good enough just ship it :)
Hey I use the term "ship it!?!?" Wait.. work for free!! Your hired, grab the Milwaukee best and point that chevy south haha, call me when it breaks down lol
Great video as usual. In a recent video you gave me a grin when you used the British phrase “and Bob’s your uncle”. That is a phrase used in a line of novels set in England and it is interesting to hear it used in the USA. I once used the phrase “that’s like carrying coals to Newcastle” and received a bunch of “say what?”s from my distance learning students. Just in case you haven’t heard the phrase, it is used to denote doing something obviously pointless. The town in Whales called Newcastle is a coal mining religion and thus taking coal TO that religion would be unnecessary. Thanks for the grin.
Question. I work for a fleet, so I never really care about cost, I just fix whats broken. In a situation like this where a customer is paying, do you pass the cost of this repair kit on to the customer? Or did you pay for it?
asavage1576 Well good question. In this case I told the customer if they wanted it fixed they would have to purchase the repair kit and they are welcome to keep the kit in the end if they choose. If it was something I would be likely to use again I would just buy the kit and charge them for the inserts, however at the price of over $400 it would chew up the majority of the profit of this job.
For your kids indoor BB gun target just a piece of paper or a standard size cardboard and an old pillow that's all you need I like watching a show take care
hey Eric are you putting those holes and their threads to the the original size or will be different from others. Good job bro as always and by the way u got three kids, me too but mine all gone my two boys university degree and my daughter first year so enjoy them as much as u can when they are young before they reach 18. thanks for sharing.
Excellent presentation. Installed 10 inserts 5 years ago. Yota still going strong @ 300K!!!
You're a good dad bro, the world needs more of those, good job!
He’s not from the South...
@@ripstick2217 ?
@@ripstick2217 what difference does that make?
I think the use of, bro. More of a Southern supposedly.
Who’s watching this oldie but goodie in March 2023?
I really appreciate the time you put into making this video! I am a mechanic but have not had the pleasure of tapping a lot or thread repairs. I also don't don't remember helicoil or timesert alot. This helps me (& I'm sure others) understand what it takes to get into head jobs & even pricing to be prepared & not lose my shirt as I am also mobile! I really love your informational style & not making a 3 min videos about repair. I also send my customers to you channel (if they question my prices or just want to learn what it takes). You are the best, Eric O!
This was a great video. Thank you for sharing this. It’s nice to see all of the steps. Also, thank you for “keeping it real” from admitting at the beginning that you were nervous, the three phone calls from the kiddos, dropping the plastic drill bit guide...oh, and actually reading real directions. Truly an inspiration!
I been using a kit NS 300 being a machinist for 35 years and the kit was made by one been on spot on never a problem and solved the oil problem. Been buying these car up for 100 dollars and making much in profit thank you Toyota
Having a loving family makes work worthwhile. It’s great to see a dad who truly enjoys his family as well as his work.
Farmers get attached to their rides and animals I know I'm a cattle farmer I got a farm truck 90 chevy k10 wore out 10 years ago also got some cows same way I spend money on old truck just to keep it going use it every day just like an old pair of boots feels good.
Apparently there was a recall on these rav4's - from a software glitch from the factory where these engines were produced, that caused this damage of over torquing the head bolts during production.
That sucks, my 04 camry has 61,000 miles on it and its already burning coolant
the 2.4 is horrible for 2 things, burning oil (oil return holes plug up in the pistons and end up blowing by the rings into the combustion chamber, and head studs pulling out due to a poor engineering design (the bolt only grabs about 1" of aluminum, so over heat cycles it weakens the threads and rips them out, leading to blowing coolant out)
@@braaapattack2937 Which year? 2006 as well?
Every year of the 2.4 had the problem
@@braaapattack2937 I have an 02 Camry 2.4, 180k miles -I just put a whole bunch of money into..replaced water pump, serpentine belt and tensioner, etc etc.. is this problem common enough to where I should get rid of the car? I've seen many more 250k+ mile 2azfe Camrys than ones needing repair lol
Just did this sort of thing on my BMW M54 engine, only I skipped the TimeSert kit with the alignment plate and just used my drill press (the block is on the stand, I'm doing a rebuild). Pretty dang easy that way. One thing I realized is I could have probably drilled those bad boys out hand held because the drill bit will tend to self align. If ya think about it, you're drilling into a nice big ready made pilot hole ya know? I could be wrong there but that was the sense I got. I primarily used the drill press because the timeserts needed to be inset about 7mm below the deck in my case and I just wanted the ability to repeat that depth with a larger size drill bit using the stop on the press. Anyway, great job on demonstrating the $450 kit method!
Another great video as always Eric. Love watching all the "special " repairs and trouble shooting you do.
Absolutely loved it. You're the real deal. Problems arise and you solve them one at a time. One note Eric, cutting oil as used on cast iron pipe is not your best choice for aluminum. Cutting oil has sulfur in it as that's needed when working with ferrous metals. Aluminum actually cuts much better with WD40 or kerosene. Beolube works great too. This car should be a treasure chest of videos for you. Now you can show us how to put the head back together and all that other good stuff.
Ahhh great information. Geezz that panther pee had a main ingredient of kerosene. Had no idea about the sulfur, great now you guys are gonna pick on me lol. So what is the purpose of the sulfur? I assume a lube. Cheezy Dee just told me about the special "aluminum" tap magic. _"Now you can show us how to put the head back together and all that other good stuff."_ Mmmmm maybe...
South Main Auto Repair The aluminum Tap Magic is great. Relton also makes a cutting fluid specifically for Aluminum called A-9 which might be even better and I personally think is the best. WD-40 and kerosene has been used for years with aluminum and works very well and as you know both are available anywhere. Sulfur is used as an Extreme Pressure Additive. When cutting ferrous metals it prevents welding and galling of the chips to the cutting tool.
As a machinist I can tell you that for aluminum we-40 is the best tap fluid because it is light and doesn’t let the chips bind up under the tap like a heavy tap oil will that can really make a mess of the threads when they gall up the hole. The dowl pin. A reamer that size to clean up the hole and then it should be a press fit in maybe with a little lock tight and bump it back in to the hole. Once it’s lined up straight just don’t let it get crooked.
In states where cost of living is low I can see how you can make your living like this. Here in California it's not possible. Most mechanics know this and take advantage. Eric and other RUclips Automotive greats have taught me how to do 90% Of my automotive repair work. I cannot say thank you enough for that.
a piece of masking tape works for a guide too.
that alignment plate is a nice idea.
1AZ-FE engine. Toyota increased the head bolt holes thread depths on blocks made after late 2006. There is a TSB for engine overheat, coolant loss from head gasket, loose bolts as the root cause.
Nice video.
TSB for the 2AZFE?
Yes 2AZ also. Sorry I thought it was a 2.0! Both blocks are effected the same. TSB calls for a new short motor. (Obviously not an option on older stuff, this was when the vehicles were in the three year warranty)
Oh ok got ya. I'll look that up, thanks
hello guys i have question.my friend came with 06 camry with p0016 code.he put new crank sensor cz it was open (earlyer).it was late so i did,nt check the timing before call cam sensor its bad.i have plan to check that vvt filter too.solenoid looks fine.have 220 000 km in the car.i dont know wich motor.( 2AZFE?) looks burning oil nicely.(pcv was,nt too bad)he using this car 6 years ago changing oil twice year (high milage syn castrol or others) the question is can i see the gap between t chain tensioner and levers from the top?.(i think yes.) aw job Mr.O
The repair is good, but it was uplifting to see that the kids come first in your book. Bravo to a good father.
Well they are only young once you know, besides wouldn't you rather go home and make an indoor bb gun range than be at work!?
South Main Auto Repair Yes I would.
Clearly this video is from before you started doing the dramatic shot of the brake cleaner, you mentioned brake clean and I was waiting for it the whole time, and then it never came! massive anti-climax hahaha
Yes @35:38 I noticed that also.
Im glad not the only one who noticed eric o not doing that and reading instructions
Great job! A little tech tip that was shared with me, when marking depth on drill bits, etc. a piece of electrical tape instead of marker will survive the wd-40 & cleaners. A good quality red tape is even better. And as a personal preference, I use electronics cleaner instead of brake cleaner to avoid eating up any surrounding parts. Just my 2 cents worth, thanks for the video!
+mitchellpurelife All good info thank you!
I like your videos, a lot. Thanks. BTW - I also use a General Tools S838 6 Piece 3/16-Inch to 1/2-Inch Drill Stop Set, to keep from drilling too deep.
Crazy how successful this channel's gotten. I've got a 2AZFE with this exact issue and if I didn't live 17 hours away, I'd definitely be brining my car into you. Keep up the great work!
i've done this on a toyota 2.4 three times, and never did the outside 4 holes. if i remember correctly, you are ONLY supposed to tap out and use the inserts on the inside 6 holes. something about tolerances and the bulletin stated that.
If youre just losing a little coolant when its fully warmed, many times you can just put longer, fatter bolts in the back side. There's an extra half inch down there. Buy the "2AZFE repair bolts" on eBay. 2.5 hours, cam comes out of the way but you need to have or fashion a long probe to release and hold the tensioner.
I used the fatter longer 2AZFE repair bolts on eBay and didn't even take the head off. Worked great. 2 hours repair.
Why not a better explanation of how they work? Do these bolts cut their own threads or what is involved in rethreading the block? Better explanation than "fatter longer" is needed!
K Stewart if you watch the video you will see the factory bolts barely thread into the block at all. The “repair” bolts just thread deeper in there.
And they are only 13$ apiece. Used them on my camry and they worked great.
There are virgin threads below where the factory head bolts stop. Instead of paying 600$ for either 1 of the 2 insert kits u can but the longer bolts on ebay that go deeper than the stripped threads and into the virgin threads without having to drill and tap the block. Hope that explains it a little more clearly.
Eric, this one made me laugh. Dropping the insert under the car, then the comment " be coming out in the oil pan right away". plus the kids calling. man that video was a grande slam bottom nine, world series. And now I know i'm not the only one belly crawling under the car to get my parts back. Great vid, has to be my favorite.
As long as when you drop your parts and they fall in the middle of the car... am I right!? That is where they always go... or option 2 you never see it again haha.
@@SouthMainAuto My 2005 Nissan Armada ate the brake reservoir cap after I dropped it. I searched, poked, blew compressed air, but it was gone.
@@Bighead-he8zb my 2001 ford focus has eaten several things, I just recently found a 10mm socket, its been hiding for more than 2 years behind the engine.....
Long Handled Magnet works wonders.
@@j.chrisbeck7492 That's my 10mm. Except I lost it 6 years ago on my 98 Ranger 4wd! 😂
Here's an idea to avoid removing timing cover for a head gasket job. You will have trouble doing head bolt inserts next to the timing cover with this method. You would need a super long drill bit and extension for the tap. There is only one bolt you MUST remove under the timing cover which bolts the top of the exhaust-side chain guide to the head. Remove valve cover. Set crankshaft to TDC and confirm camshafts are at their colored-link timing points. Remove the camshafts. After you have the camshafts out, you can support chain with a wire so it doesn't skip a cog on the crankshaft and then I was thinking you could get a 10mm deep-offset box end wrench onto the bolt hiding behind the chain guide or possibly make a special tool by welding a 10mm wrench to a short 12-pt 10mm socket to get behind the chain guide. What do you think about that? Is there enough clearance inside the timing cover? Also need clearance inside the cover for the bolt itself to be completely unthreaded. If not enough clearance, unscrew the bolt as much as possible and then cut off the head with a hacksaw - keeping rags in the timing cavity to catch debris. Remove rest of bolt with fingers or bendable grabber tool (??). Cut replacement bolt short enough for reassembly since bolt need to be shorter - use locktight since we're guessing about a shorter bolt being OK. When removing head you might need to “bend” the chain guide out of the way a little - hopefully the part can tolerate a little flex - if you break it you’re back to removing the timing cover. At reassembly, run a borescope down the timing cavity to check the alignment (pink) on the crankshaft cog and check the alignment at the intake/exhaust gears are aligned with the yellow links.
Hey Eric, more RUclips authors should do more of the kinds of Long and in Depth Auto Repair Videos like the one's you Produce, Keep up the Great and Informative Videos man!
treluvsjay1 Do you ever check out ScannerDanner ? He does the same type of in depth coverage too and I think you would enjoy his videos as well.
Did this on a couple of Northstars (my brother's caddy's). Naturally, being V-8's, the motors had to come out to do it. First motor went well. Second one, I was torquing down the second head, on the final pass of of one of the last bolts and the block cracked open. NEVER again...
Looking tired in this one Eric. Great work with the time sert install, get Home and enjoy the family. Watch it, you’ll shoot your eye out!
That kit seems pretty well thought out. Indoor shooting range "it don't get no better".
+Eric Corse Haha, BB guns and the basement :)
I bet they had fun pretty cool idea
+South Main Auto Repair I like the pellets better. They bounce less. In an unfinished basement those silly bb's can really bounce around.
I bought that same kit for a Toyota Camry. I got the car for free from mother in-law. A month later it was leaking antifreeze and did some research and it’s a known problem that the three center back head bolts strip out. The kit worked awesome.
Did this two years ago and so far so good.
Eric I have done them on Norstar Cadillacs don’t worry about the drill when you start it take it down until it fills up and clean it. The reason the head bolts come loose is because the heat and the pressure on the head the aluminum gives up after a while when it gets hot from the heat and the pressure on the cylinders they just turn loose Cadillac is notorious for this thanks for the video I appreciate it I enjoy watching your videos tell Miss O and the family hello thanks CK
Great job. Shop vac next to drill bit worked very well for me
23:21 "AAHHH GREAT!"Love it LOL - and man have we all been there
Hi guy - I used this and a few other videos to do this same job on a 05 Toyota Camry- I bought it knowing the head gasket was blown - I rebuilt everything - had the engine bored and everything - I found that someone had already put helicoils in the back 5 holes - the problem with helicoils is that the installer is not long enough to get way down in the bolt holes - so the mechanic ahead of me cut off the back 5 bolts and they were ok - so I did all the holes in the front - everything went fine with reassembly- the only odd thing I noticed was the holes with the helicoils would not torque with an even pull - they wanted to pop when they got tight. The thread certs pulled to torque smoothly with no issues - I built this care for a disabled friend and it was my first Toyota- I was totally impressed with how close the specs were on those little power plant - however if you replace any main or rod bearings do not buy aftermarket - I found that the Chinese after market bearing shells were .001 too thin - so when all your deminisions on your components were correct the oil clearence was out of spec by .002. Live and learn I guess - the time cert is spendy but lots of these small cars use this 11mm head bolt...
Hey Eric love the Channel! Just wanted to give you a big thank you for making this video series. I completed this repair with the help of your video a year ago on my sister’s 02 rav4. She’s still running like a top and I used the same time-sert kit. I do all my own repair work and I called a local shop for an estimate for this job. All of then refused to take on the job and just wanted to source a motor from a junkyard! Glad I found this video and took this route. Thanks again brotha and happy new year to you and the sma fam!
Eric I love your videos. You might be able to remove those hollow dowel pins by filling the cavity in the dowel pin hole with grease (it can be melted). Then with a punch or bolt that just fits inside the dowel pin drive the pin into the grease and the hydraulic action should move the pin. Hope this helps I’ve used it on pilot bearings etc. and it works well.
Many Blessings to you all,
David
Thanks for your vids. I'm an Oldsmobile man myself, and my '96 POS is as hard to work on as most of the cars/trucks you do. I have a '75 Cutlass I'm restoring - there's room under that hood to house a family of 4! Keep your vids coming - they make me feel better about the problems I've been having...
Randy Condran Glad my temporary hardships can bring you joy haha
South Main Auto Repair My '75 was a Virginia car - lots of rust. I inherited it, so I decided to go for it. I live in Texas, so my other car has no rust - just no room to work...
Right down in Kilmer's neck of the woods huh?
I'm in San Antonio - I think Scotty's in Houston. World of difference... LOL.
Haha I'm just messin
A friend of mine bought a Camry that needed a head gasket job.I saw your video but he took the car back so I didnt have to try it.Thank you and thank God I didn't have to get stuck with that job and my buddy didn't get stuck with the stripped head bolt thing that Camry,Im guessing probably had.Also everybody get saved and stuff in case this Corona virus thing kills us all.
i wish I had your patience. With the sirens, traffic noise, and repeated phone calls, I would have bit that tap in half!!! Man that guy must love that RAV4!!!
Thanks. Best info for 1989 Toyota pickup. Fan was resistor blown out. You made it simple to fix.
Having done this with some NorthStars it's intimidating at first. What I've learned. Tape everything up like Eric did so the chips don't end up in the wrong places.
Use slower drill. I took one of the ends to my Craftsmen Shop vac and drilled a hole in it for 1/4 brake tubing. I took a cheap air blow gun and drilled and tapped the end for a NPT to 1/4 brake fitting and screwed to the end of the air gun. After drilling the hole, put the end of the shop vac attachment over the hole turn on the shop vac then stick the air gun with 1/2 tubing on the end down into the hole and blow the chips up and out of the hole. After drilling and tapping I would use a non-flammable brake cleaner, (Eric's favor brand of course) to clean out the holes so the loctite wouldn't have any issues with contamination and again use the shop vac and air gun with tubing suck the stuff out.
tool & die maker we used keen certs for years they had four small pins that u drove down thru threads to hold them in. Good job but very labor intensive
Eric, you have the Right attitude when taking on a challenging job as you have, first time around is always a worry, but you have the patience and the right temperament, I would take on anything too, well almost anything, but the interruptions. Would try me out, but I know you adore your family and yes your putting your priorities in the right order, love your videos, Rob from Ozz
Hey Eric. With your attention to detail, you would have made a great engineer. Nice work and amazing how you can stay through all of it with all the distractions going on. Going to check out #2 to see how the dowel pin worked out.
Hey Terry thanks but no thanks... NO WAY I could have been an engineer... I fried way to many brain cells in my high school days to consider that haha
Eric love your videos sir. I did do one of those same engine head job a little bit before you made this video. One of the tech's at our shop did an ac job on the car and supposedly did not adequately fill the coolant afterwards. The customer ran it full hot until it wouldn't go. I was the fortunate one who got to do the repair. The customer was wanting it ready super fast, my boss didn't want me to spend a lot of time on it. I'm sure you know how I felt having never done one of these. I had trouble with the dowels between block and head, long story short I think I was so pressed for time I left one dowel out and there was a small oil leak. Three of the ignition coils were toast and no one wanted to pay for those. It ran fine with three new ones. Owner of shop let his insurance get the guy fixed up with another car, but the guy kept the car of course as all it needed was three coils and a small oil leak which I didn't have the chance to look at the car anymore.
Dropped objects always come to rest in the least accessible location. I once said this out loud and the person with me at the time looked at me like I was nuts.
Nuts or not Stephen, I agree with you 100%. If it can roll under the bench, or become stuck in some unbelievable location within the engine compartment, that's where the critter will go. My best memories involve nuts and screws that I dropped inside tinware on VW engines back in the day. Cheers from Indonesia.
If it is an 04 Rab4 you would think it would be cheaper to throw a junk yard engine or just junk the Car. I'm sure with the price of the strip down, the tapping and rebuild would come to more than the value of the Car. I get your nerves and I thank you for releasing this warts and all. Great video Mr O.
I once installed the head gasket back to front on an old 1999 Toyota corolla when I was a first year apprentice, haha puked coolant and oil out the side of the block. oops. then I quickly took it off flipped the gasket because it was metal and used the same head bolts. swapped it in 2 hours lol. it hasn't leaked up until this day and still running good
Oh man you got lucky haha :)
South Main Auto Repair yeah haha I did a lot of stupid shit when I was an apprentice
Some random person Don't we all?
I did the same thing once, but on an intake manifold of a 1988 Isuzu Trooper, realized my mistake when I started it up and the coolant gushed out...this occurred at 3:30 pm, the customer was in transit, and needed the car that night, I got it back off( had to remove these super long studs to get manifold to slide off sideways, the head kept hitting the inner side of engine bay,) and put back together correctly, finished it by 5:45 pm, boy was I pooped that night from the hustle !
I remember a recall while working at a chevy dealership in the 80's Wrong type of headbolts broke or streatchedwhich caused head gasket to blow or warped heads....Had to do a few even though I was the shops only alignment tech.....I didn't stay on that job long even if they did sponsor my late model stock. That red loctite is almost as good as sleeve retainer loctite.
Eric, when I did this I used a shop vac while drilling and that sucked up the loose chips as I drilled and evacuated debris in hole, just a tip, I am not in your league, great videos, THX.
I love your work and your videos. I personally would have not taken any chances. I would have drilled and taped before the head work and cleaning up just in case I hade to get a motor from the junk yard. You said it's burning oil maybe the junk yard would have been a better choice
It's a common process, I think it's just different that it's done in the vehicle rather than at a machine shop.
IMHO, the risk was quite low.
Eric, I'm a retired cop and I do IT Security for a living... Just a heads up Microsoft XP is no longer supported. Time to upgrade that machine to Windows 7 or better yet Windows 10! :-) You should be OK with XP if the box is not connected to the network for the short term. By the way I'm really digging your channel. I've learned a lot as I do alot of DIY repairs on my own.
Jim
XP home at that too. SMA lives dangerously.
@@BogusJesus Well I'm cutting Eric a break since the video was made back in 2015! Eric, if you have your ears on keep up the great work. We all appreciate your viseos and the effort to put forth to keep us shade tree mechanics informed!
I know the perfect fix for those aluminium head bolt holes.. an iron block! Love your videos Eric :)
@Mike Studmuffin does jb weld count?
Not for head bolts ,but have used Time-Serts before and they are good . Also when i worked at a gravel pit , we used a lot of Keenserts there . Which are more like a HeliCoil but only different . I see XP back there
Oh yeah I am still rocking XP out in the shop. I have a brand new windows 7 comp in the box on the bottom of my roll cart but just haven't made the swap yet. Shop computers don't last long and I get brand new ones for a hundred bucks. Can them every couple of years. I tell ya this one has been hanging in there pretty good though.
South Main Auto Repair I still have one xp running . Not sure what all you install on new ones , but i do have a list of Free programs i install on customers computers if ever interested . To bad you could not put in different room and just leave keyboard and monitor in shop.
Yeah honestly a hundred bucks every 1 or 2 years isn't to bad for what I do with them.. I use Win 8 at home.. Man I hat windows 8 haha
South Main Auto Repair Would you feel better about windows 8 if it started up at the desk top like xp and win 7 does and not the tiles page , and if you could have most of the start menu back
I would and I do because that's what I Did ;)
I am sure the tiles and apps are fine on a touch screen but on a desktop it's awful. I don't mind it so much now but I am glad Microsoft is letting every one upgrade to windows 10 for free :)
Always better to be cautious and Patient then go hog wild while drilling out threads to put a insert in a head good work Eric O as Always @21:23 @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
next time try the shop vac on the chips...they get all over and can chafe hoses and cause mayhem and trouble for the customer down the road... nice video.
"T" handled tap wrenches are handy, smaller swing and better feel.
In the trade they call the straight ones "tap breaker" wrenches.
I think the reason for the head bolts seeming to crazy tight is because the aluminum on the "block" bonds to the steel that the bolts are made of. sometimes the threads on the aluminum will attach to the bolt and rip apart. I love your videos btw.
Commonly known as galvanic corrosion - a reaction between two dissimilar metals. There really is no other choice for fasteners here, it's steel or stainless steel. The salts that develop really do bind things together! I had a Fiat many years ago that had this problem with the brake bleed screws. They became part of the caliper. No way you were turning them out.
Why do so many of these head bolts strip - good question. The rule of thumb for a steel fastener threaded into aluminium is that the thread engagement should at least 2-3 thread diameters for the joint to develop full strength when properly torqued. For a fastener going into steel, it is about one diameter (i.e. the thickness of most nuts is just about one diameter) because steel is stronger than aluminium
From what Eric showed, the bolt appeared to be engaged to around three thread diameters and so I suspect that the bolts were either over-torqued at the factory or the metallurgy of the aluminium blocks was not up to snuff (ie. it was too soft).
Yeah done many ! Your doing great job need a slower drill rpm and thicker lubricant.
MURPHY'S LAW WHAT EVER can go wrong will go wrong,
Murphy was an optimist.
I had a guy come to my shop. He had over heated his honda so he wanted me to put new rings bearings and head gasket. I got it all done and went to put the heat on, and it had been so hot it annealed the block so bad it stripped ALL the head bolts. I Heli coiled all the bolt holes. What a fun day that was.
Little tip: in addition to putting oil in the hole, put some on the bit also to keep the whole bit oiled up
should of just put some tape on the drill bit to the length needed , then trusted your ability to be able to drill straight, we all learn by our mistakes but we also learn by trial an error, trust in yourself an your ability,s an you,ll always come out on top ,,,, cheers keep up the good work .....
WD can soften the glue also - not really a huge problem, just an inconvenience.
Lots to learn from Eric O... more than just repair! Learn how to give life the beans! Thanks Eric!
Time Serts are a very good solution to this (chronic) problem.
used to work in a machine shop and used these and they worked ok
Great info, thanks for doing this.
May I ask what one should expect to pay for such a repair? I ask because by 03 Camry, 4 cylinder started leaking a lot of water and coming out the back of the engine like this Rav-4
Any concern with unequal torquing if only some of the holes have the coils and others don't? I might be inclined to do all the holes rather than just some to keep everything the same. Actually, I would have taken the block to a machine shop, really, but still same rationale.
That was plaguing me that night Matt so I actually come back in part 2 and do all the holes haha. See we think alike :) Machine shop!? Pff you get one of these in I can make you a sweet deal on a 1 owner low mileage kit...
Wow we do think alike- not sure if that's good or bad ahahaha.
South Main Auto Repair Toyota T-SB-0015-11 Says never do insert work on the two bolt holes at the front and rear of the cylinder block. But they also say to do all six in the middle regardless of condition.
This looks like good job for a shop vac as well as air for chip clean up
After completing installing the insert, you might use that little T-measure to verify that the top of the insert is 3" below the surface, like the original threads.
My Wife's 2003 Highlander Bit the Dust from the same Thing I saw these Kits out there and wondered how well they worked
My first tip is to use a longer extension turned around or keep going with the square drive. As far as the dowel. If it was me I would see if There was a way to nurl part of the dowel or even the hole. The hole would be easier. Use a center punch and make 3-4 equal distant punch marks in the aluminum block. This would raise the metal some thus making a tight fit. Its only there for the head gasket/ head alignment..
The class enjoyed your repair. Keep the great vids coming as the students are Eric the car guy'ed out!
Lol, Nice thanks, I'll try to as much as time allows.
You the man thank you for showing us how to do this! Keep them coming
I did this one time on a 01' jetta with 150k miles and i actually found a cheap engine in great shape with 67k beforehand and the owner said he wanted it fixed because some other mechanic had botched an engine replacement on his other car and it never ran well so now he doesn't trust that solution, i should've said take it to another place and pay my diagnosis
You are a brilliant mechanic Barry England
The head bolts fail because of the lack of amount of Threads used and The hot and Cold cycles from the head makes the Head Bolts Brittle Eric O @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
If I could give you one hundred thumbs up I would eric your channel grew on me i started watching here and there but now i watch all the time great job you have a great attitude and you seem like a great dad and husband ...........
Hey there Auto Maintenance Supply Alfonso Tello , Glad you enjoy it thanks :)
We will be coming out the oil pan in a little bit! That made my night I almost fell out of my chair laughing thanks Eric I needed that I was thinking the same thing watching how deep that drill bit went!!
My guess as to why Toyota had problems with those 3 rear bolts stripping, they over torqued them in the factory. You described the force you had to apply to remove the front bolts. It's only aluminum. Perhaps the rear had lower thread count than the front (i.e., less thread area.)
Just watching this years later but I have done a bunch of those inserts and I never turn the drills that fast. Slow and lots of torque. Those bits are very very sharp and they won't stay that way turning it that fast. Perhaps you have learn this by now??
A nerve wrecking job indeed. Great job.
I always like watch your videos I do think alot of time you are too hard on your self you do great work and care I'm a diesel technician and you teach me a lot of cool stuff that made me better at my job thank you for that
Love how Eric always says "cut your buddy not your body" but still cuts toward himself 😂😂
On early 911 air cooled engine, the head bolts will pull out of the case and the only way to repair them was to insert a timesert. Worse case was if a head bolt would snap inside the case. You couldn't drill out the old head bolts because they were made with a special metal called dilvar. You would basically have to use a electro arc to burn them out.
Upallnight Oh wow no kidding. I have never worked on one of those.
You know it's a great video when you close your eyes when he is blowing the shavings out of the hole 😂
Nah, I had my safety glasses on all the time!
Did 2 caddies with the Northstar motor. First caddy went well, second one the block cracked as I was torquing down the 2nd head. Of course, the engine had to be pullled to do the repair kit, and I was out everything. Never again with a Cadillac.
Fantastic- I never used time- sert before, looks great. Man that's a lot of work into that job. That would be a winter project for me :) 👍
Come on down, it's still winter and I am willing to let you at it...
Hey I'd love to work in a shop just to learn hey I wouldn't even take a wage. I'm super anal though , OCD or is it CDO - I'm like crazy picky it just hast to be done right , never hear me say good enough just ship it :)
Hey I use the term "ship it!?!?" Wait.. work for free!! Your hired, grab the Milwaukee best and point that chevy south haha, call me when it breaks down lol
Great video. You dont find much of this material and quality over YT ...
Great video as usual. In a recent video you gave me a grin when you used the British phrase “and Bob’s your uncle”. That is a phrase used in a line of novels set in England and it is interesting to hear it used in the USA. I once used the phrase “that’s like carrying coals to Newcastle” and received a bunch of “say what?”s from my distance learning students. Just in case you haven’t heard the phrase, it is used to denote doing something obviously pointless. The town in Whales called Newcastle is a coal mining religion and thus taking coal TO that religion would be unnecessary.
Thanks for the grin.
Time Sert makes some pretty specific thread repair kits, I have a 1/4-32 kit for model airplaine enging glow plugs.
Question. I work for a fleet, so I never really care about cost, I just fix whats broken. In a situation like this where a customer is paying, do you pass the cost of this repair kit on to the customer? Or did you pay for it?
asavage1576 Well good question. In this case I told the customer if they wanted it fixed they would have to purchase the repair kit and they are welcome to keep the kit in the end if they choose. If it was something I would be likely to use again I would just buy the kit and charge them for the inserts, however at the price of over $400 it would chew up the majority of the profit of this job.
Windows XP??...nice! Y2K called...they want their Operating System back. ;)
Hey Eric I now you love brake clean, but electrical cleaner cleans alot better and is safer to use on plastic
For your kids indoor BB gun target just a piece of paper or a standard size cardboard and an old pillow that's all you need I like watching a show take care
hey Eric are you putting those holes and their threads to the the original size or will be different from others. Good job bro as always and by the way u got three kids, me too but mine all gone my two boys university degree and my daughter first year so enjoy them as much as u can when they are young before they reach 18. thanks for sharing.
Hey j georges , yep everything is all stock and factory, just putting in steel inserts. I have three kids, 7, 5 and 4. :)
Instead of making a mark on the drill, you could use a drill collar. Then it's impossible to go deeper than your mark.
Good stuff. Use then on trans. Pan bolts.