Doh! I really thought we were going to see the really 'fun' part. 'Threading the needle' on a 335 is the bit that concerned citizens are interested in. However, really neat job and great advice - as always. 👍😀
Some Tips and General information to add to the video: 1) You do not have to use the pot rear cover as a soldering connection for signals. If the guitar does not have a pot mounting metal plate like a LP as just one example, then the pot rear covers need to be grounded (technically part of the chassis ground), but this can be part of a chassis ground circuit that then goes to a star single point ground. To ground the pot rear covers (which is connected to the shaft and the other metal parts) you can use a grounding washer like Bourns sells. However, if you want the guitar to look more vintage then you will use the pot rear covers as ground (signal, chassis, and jack). CTS has yet to go on the record as to how to solder to their guitar pots rear cover (no app notes no videos no pictures), which they state as solderable in the data sheet. But what does a good solder joint look like for a braid to pot rear cover solder joint? Bourns in general discourages soldering to pot covers and recommends using their grounding washer, Part Number H-127. If you are going to solder to the pot cover, it is best to remove the oxidation using a small die grinder with a Scothbrite pad and then use liquid flux to aid in soldering. The best solution to solder to the pot rear cover, IMHO to minimize heating up the pot, is two use a one and done approach. That is prep everything position wise so you only heat up the pot once. This method, however, takes a lot of power (high wattage iron heater) 100 Watt min, but the high end is the JBC HDE which is 250W min. With a temperature controlled soldering station power is not temperature, power is the ability of the heating element to keep the soldering temperature at its set point when the joint has a large thermal mass, like a pot rear cover. Many will try and compensation for inadequate power by having a low power iron at a very high temperature. Which is not what you want when soldering to a pot rear cover, that has both grease and plastic in direct contact with the rear cover on the inside. You want to set the temperature as to not damage the pot but still be able to make the solder joint in the least amount of time. The ideal soldering station would be infinite power with a zero heat transfer distance, which obviously is not readily available. 2) So the video author has been around the block a few times when it comes to point to point guitar wiring. As with most experienced high end guitar wiring technicians the hook up wire of choice is ALPHA 2827 (or equivalent) with the PTFE inner jacket and outer jacket with braided 90% shield, I use 20AWG as my standard gauge and use three versions: 2827 (which really means 2827/1), 2827/2 and 2827/3 (Three way switches). 2827 is very expensive, although as you can see in the video not a lot of wire is used in a guitar, military type Teflon hookup wire with a very thin outer Teflon jacket, which is good for routing through channels or holes in the wood body, but is really the only solution that will not melt the jacket when soldering either the shield braid or the conductor (you can see this in the video, if the jacket was PVC it would be just a huge melted mess). To protect the the pickup shielded braid from shorting something out you can use ALPHA PTFE tubing of the correct diameter rather than heat shrink. 3) The high end cap choice IMHO for stability and longevity would be a MICA capacitor, but they are very expensive. A Mica cap will outlive the guitar owner and the guitar. It is best to use an alligator heat sink clip to the cap leads when soldering, this will redirect some of the heat from going into the cap, which is only a real danger when soldering the lead to the pot rear cover. 4) For noise and general common wiring practices you would also see a bridge ground installed and connected to circuit ground. Although a humbucking pickup will greatly reduce the noise sensitivity.
I just bought a Gibson ES-333, which is essentially the 335 design with back access cover. Produced from 2002-2005. I'd felt deterred from test swapping semi-hollow's pickups for too long. Now its an easy 15 minutes.
Really great to hear you identify how important a quality volume pot is to the guitar's overall performance. The exposed lead ends on that toggle switch looks like the push-back cloth insulation got tugged away from the connection during the road-repair.
@@PsionicAudio I bought a pre-wired kit (pots, switch, jack plus caps all pre-soldered) from Emerson. Having never done this before, I joined the braided + hot ends from the pickups to the ends of braided + hot ends of the kit...ES 335. I used a heat shrink on the hotwires. (I used the same pickups). That's why I wanted to see a video... a newbie here.
Your wiring/dressing looks great however I am just not a fan of having the capacitors wired on the tone pots that way. I suppose for this installation in a semi-hollow the robustness advantages of the modern circuit greatly outweigh the traditional '50s wiring. All that being said, your installation is very clean and well thought through (obviously not your first Rodeo).
Thanks. In an LP I'm fine with having the cap between the tone and volume pots. But I see that cap lead break in so many 335s and similar. Having the cap on the pot just makes for a much more reliable install. And there is no audible difference.
what value are the panasonics? .022? Sorry, not very knowledgable about wiring or capacitors? i want to upgrade my casino. trying to decide whether or not to use .015 or .022 on the neck? thanks! I always enjoy all of your videos!
PsionicAudio, just curious have you ever tried the CTS TAOT Custom 525K Potentiometers, Audio Taper - 5% Tolerance - 500K-550K? If yes, how would you rate them compared to the RS Guitarworks you are using here? Thanks
Doh! I really thought we were going to see the really 'fun' part. 'Threading the needle' on a 335 is the bit that concerned citizens are interested in. However, really neat job and great advice - as always. 👍😀
Some Tips and General information to add to the video:
1) You do not have to use the pot rear cover as a soldering connection for signals. If the guitar does not have a pot mounting metal plate like a LP as just one example, then the pot rear covers need to be grounded (technically part of the chassis ground), but this can be part of a chassis ground circuit that then goes to a star single point ground. To ground the pot rear covers (which is connected to the shaft and the other metal parts) you can use a grounding washer like Bourns sells. However, if you want the guitar to look more vintage then you will use the pot rear covers as ground (signal, chassis, and jack). CTS has yet to go on the record as to how to solder to their guitar pots rear cover (no app notes no videos no pictures), which they state as solderable in the data sheet. But what does a good solder joint look like for a braid to pot rear cover solder joint?
Bourns in general discourages soldering to pot covers and recommends using their grounding washer, Part Number H-127. If you are going to solder to the pot cover, it is best to remove the oxidation using a small die grinder with a Scothbrite pad and then use liquid flux to aid in soldering. The best solution to solder to the pot rear cover, IMHO to minimize heating up the pot, is two use a one and done approach. That is prep everything position wise so you only heat up the pot once. This method, however, takes a lot of power (high wattage iron heater) 100 Watt min, but the high end is the JBC HDE which is 250W min. With a temperature controlled soldering station power is not temperature, power is the ability of the heating element to keep the soldering temperature at its set point when the joint has a large thermal mass, like a pot rear cover. Many will try and compensation for inadequate power by having a low power iron at a very high temperature. Which is not what you want when soldering to a pot rear cover, that has both grease and plastic in direct contact with the rear cover on the inside. You want to set the temperature as to not damage the pot but still be able to make the solder joint in the least amount of time. The ideal soldering station would be infinite power with a zero heat transfer distance, which obviously is not readily available.
2) So the video author has been around the block a few times when it comes to point to point guitar wiring. As with most experienced high end guitar wiring technicians the hook up wire of choice is ALPHA 2827 (or equivalent) with the PTFE inner jacket and outer jacket with braided 90% shield, I use 20AWG as my standard gauge and use three versions: 2827 (which really means 2827/1), 2827/2 and 2827/3 (Three way switches). 2827 is very expensive, although as you can see in the video not a lot of wire is used in a guitar, military type Teflon hookup wire with a very thin outer Teflon jacket, which is good for routing through channels or holes in the wood body, but is really the only solution that will not melt the jacket when soldering either the shield braid or the conductor (you can see this in the video, if the jacket was PVC it would be just a huge melted mess). To protect the the pickup shielded braid from shorting something out you can use ALPHA PTFE tubing of the correct diameter rather than heat shrink.
3) The high end cap choice IMHO for stability and longevity would be a MICA capacitor, but they are very expensive. A Mica cap will outlive the guitar owner and the guitar. It is best to use an alligator heat sink clip to the cap leads when soldering, this will redirect some of the heat from going into the cap, which is only a real danger when soldering the lead to the pot rear cover.
4) For noise and general common wiring practices you would also see a bridge ground installed and connected to circuit ground. Although a humbucking pickup will greatly reduce the noise sensitivity.
I just bought a Gibson ES-333, which is essentially the 335 design with back access cover. Produced from 2002-2005. I'd felt deterred from test swapping semi-hollow's pickups for too long. Now its an easy 15 minutes.
I was really hoping for a revelation on getting the components into place lol. It’s always fun getting everything fished through.
That is sheer artistry at work!
Really great to hear you identify how important a quality volume pot is to the guitar's overall performance.
The exposed lead ends on that toggle switch looks like the push-back cloth insulation got tugged away from the connection during the road-repair.
Great video. I rewired my Gibson Barney Kessel a few years ago. It did not go smoothly….. hopefully this video saves some headaches….
I would have been interested to see how you made (soldered) the connection to the pickup leads from the harness setup. Thanks. Bob
Hot to pot input, braided ground to pot case. Just like anyone.
@@PsionicAudio I bought a pre-wired kit (pots, switch, jack plus caps all pre-soldered) from Emerson. Having never done this before, I joined the braided + hot ends from the pickups to the ends of braided + hot ends of the kit...ES 335. I used a heat shrink on the hotwires. (I used the same pickups). That's why I wanted to see a video... a newbie here.
Oops, you skipped over the only hard part
Your wiring/dressing looks great however I am just not a fan of having the capacitors wired on the tone pots that way.
I suppose for this installation in a semi-hollow the robustness advantages of the modern circuit greatly outweigh the traditional '50s wiring.
All that being said, your installation is very clean and well thought through (obviously not your first Rodeo).
Thanks. In an LP I'm fine with having the cap between the tone and volume pots. But I see that cap lead break in so many 335s and similar. Having the cap on the pot just makes for a much more reliable install. And there is no audible difference.
Super job!!
Real. Great to see some honesty in the sea of snake oil. This was also super helpful for me. I'm gonna use this to rewire my hofner 339 soon!
Liutopia bumblebee, ils sont good 👌
That's really clean....is there a schematic that you can provide? I'd like to try that arrangement on my 60's Univox.
what value are the panasonics? .022? Sorry, not very knowledgable about wiring or capacitors? i want to upgrade my casino. trying to decide whether or not to use .015 or .022 on the neck? thanks! I always enjoy all of your videos!
Thanks. .022ufs.
PsionicAudio, just curious have you ever tried the CTS TAOT Custom 525K Potentiometers, Audio Taper - 5% Tolerance - 500K-550K? If yes, how would you rate them compared to the RS Guitarworks you are using here? Thanks
What type of white insulated wire is that?
Teflon coated coax 22AWG. Apex Jr.
Is this modern or 50s wiring scheme?
50s