How to Wire an ES 335 - Wiring an ES-335 Harness
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- In our latest video we cover how to wire an ES-335 harness (also fits Dot and Casino style guitars)
Using our ES-335 wiring kit we wire the harness using braided guitar wire that forms part of the ground circuit by grounding the 4 pots together.
Components:
- Switchcraft short frame toggle switch
- Switchcraft 1/4'' jack socket (long thread)
- 4 x CTS 500k audio pots
- Braided guitar wire
- 0.022uF capacitors
Equipment:
- Hakko FX-888D soldering station
- Tinned copper wire
- Lead free silver solder
Full wiring guide: sixstringsuppl...
ES-335 Wiring Kit: sixstringsuppl...
More wiring guides: sixstringsuppl...
Prewired ES-335 Harness: sixstringsuppl...
Guitar Wiring Harnesses: sixstringsuppl...
![Mick’s Gibson ES-335 Gets New Pickups & Loom [Hardest Pickup Swap Ever?]](/img/1.gif)
Six String Supplies videos are always so good, cuts through the needless info and straight to the point.
Really appreciate how simple, clean, and easily you have explained and demonstrated this.
Would Like to see you installing it once done... where's that vid?
Congratulations on making the most complete and easy to follow video of wiring pots and of soldering on RUclips..
Great explanations and really good camera work. After watching this I have decided to go ahead and wire up a new harness for my own ES-335 upgrade.
Thank you for a giant step in the right direction.
Hi - I just wanted to say thanks so much for making this clear and informative vid. I recently changed pickups / electronics in an Epiphone 339 and I couldn't have done it without this clear explanation of how to build the harness. It's nowhere near as clean and skilled as your wiring (especially after getting jammed through the f-hole) but it does work! Thanks so much for putting this info out there.
I wanted to see you put that in the 335, for completeness to see if it all fit through the F hole.
Whether it fits through the F-hole depends on the guitar brand. CTS full size pots are no problem for Gibson or Epiphone. But some Asian builders may not make the F-hole a full inch wide at the middle and that's what they say is needed.
(Firefly, I'm looking at you...)
Greetings from the U.S. I just wanted to say THANK YOU for your work of filming and knowledge to make such fine videos for us pickers to enjoy. I used this 335 video for a project I've been working on and it came out perfect. It is so easy to follow your vids then it is to read a schematic. keep up the great work and stay safe.
Cheers sir! We're glad you find the videos useful. You too!
My soldering results have much improved since watchng your videos... thank you
One complaint, this is merely what I was taught about soldering. You need a "mechanical/physical" connection, as well as an "electrical" connection. IE: make a "J hook" then squeeze that together in the terminal, then hit it with the solder. Also, you don't want to move the component until the solder sets. If you shake, wiggle, etc the wire/cap/etc before the solder sets, you'll have a "cold solder". You can tell it's "cold" if it looks gray, &/or grainy. Your solder connections should be shiny.(I've soldered literally thousands of relays/caps/resistors/wires [you get the idea] during my years as an electronics tech in the aerospace industry. Just a help ful hint. Thanks for the video! Great job, except you were driving me nuts, by using your termination technique. Thanks again I've got a 335 copy (not too bad for an inexpensive guitar) & I'm thinking of upgrading the pickups. I'm out!
Nice, thanks. What do u work specifically? I'm considering engineering the aerospace field.
@@mihailmilev9909 I've worked on a large variety of aircraft both military & civilian. If you're considering Engineering as a career field, may suggest LOTs OF MATH. As Electrical Engineering is lots of Formulas. If your looking for Aerospace Engineering again LOTS of math. I was tslking about one of the easier jobs, IE soldering, Good Luck.
‘Need’ such depends upon your application. But I would agree that it’s ‘best’ to do so.
@@Zerpersande True but I worked on high Mach Aircraft during my days in the US Navy & as a DoD Contracor. (Many moons ago my friend.) However I've seen so many people solder guitar components with the method shown above. (I realized these guitars arent't going to break the Sound Barrier, nor be pulling excessive G's.) It was the old aircraft mechanic in me. I had actually forgotten I made this comment. (I still do mine the way I've always done it, though the removal process is quite a bit harder. Cheers
Beautiful work! Yeah I would love to see the rest as far as fishing stuff thru the f-hole and wiring the pickups too.
That's the brutally hard part.
@@Joe-mz6dc It's not hard at all, to be honest. Just remember that every pot, output jack, and selector switch gets *one* piece of cloth string tied to them that goes in to the guitar, up, and through each corresponding hole. That way when you start to drop in one and one element you simply pull up each pot, switch, and jack by the string and secure it down with a washer and a nut screw. Kinda difficult to explain. But there should be a video of this online on YT or pictures online somewhere. It really is not difficult at all if you do the prep-work before dropping stuff into the F-hole because remember once those things go in they are a bIIIIIIaaatch from hell to get out if you don't have a string or wire connected to them, if you did a bad job of soldering and a joint come lose you risk losing the whole thing in there and that is actually brutally hard to get out without cussing. Moral: know what you're doing and be smart when connecting a 335-style guitar. A little brains and patience go a long way both in playing and setting up guitars.
@@dba4292 I think THAT is EXACTLY WHY people wish you had recorded HOW you did it.
If you did it that is..the soldering of the harness is the EASY part.
Not taking away anything from what you did bro!! Good video for what you covered.👍😁😷
Gary Heaton I agree friend 😊 Cheers
I'm about to work on a semi-hollow, which I bought completely stripped of pickups / controls etc. Previous owner didn't have a clue where to start, and although I've worked on plenty electrics before, it's my first hollowbody! 🤞
Thanks for the vid! 😎👍🙏
"Tinning is winning!" You should out that on your merch. Thanks for the tips.
Extremely well explained! Finally I got it, thanks a lot!
Brilliant, mate! Thank you for this lesson! I have 2 semi-hollowbodies getting new guts, thanks to you!
I did complete rewire on an ES355 a few weeks ago a bit fiddly but basically an easy enough job. I about to start on a complete rewire on a Les Paul which of course has easy access through the back plate.
Thanks mate! ... very nicely done and very informative for me ... I'd like to see the installation of the harness perhaps in your next video?!? ... 🎸🎸
Yes I have a guitar specifically for a video on installing this harness. It will be filmed and uploaded before the end of the year. Thanks again
@@SixStringSupplies I'll be looking for it and thanks again! ... 🎸🎸
I ordered new Alpha pots and PIO caps for my MIC Casino. I reused the original switch/jack. Getting the NV pot in is tricky when it's soldered on top as demonstrated. As mentioned below, the F holes are not always accommodating (among other things AKA holes don't fit CTS pots or switchcraft switches/jacks).
Great video...I usually solder both leads of the cap to tone pot...run jumper wire to volume pot...on semi and hollowbodies
Also leave extra length as well...makes fishing through f holes less of a nightmare
Scott Raycraft thanks...yes I now tend to leave a little more slack in the wire as it’s pretty tight in this video
@@SixStringSupplies you're wiring is the same as in the Epiphone Bible mag. I'm just doing an ES355 did a 3 pickup special order ES345 a few years ago it was a bit fiddly with the varitone but I had no real problems.
Great video! Now please show us the hard part -- how to install it! 🙂
You're great at this! But now show us how to install the harness in the ES-335
it's on the list. Just need to find a swear jar big enough :)
Great work. Better than factory. Always enjoy your tutorials.
Thanks John! I’m trying to pump more tutorials out on a more consistent basis. Thanks for watching and supporting.
Good consistent step-by-step instruction! I'm building an ES-175 style kit and would certainly like to learn wiring the pickups with this kind of rig. Thanks for the good teaching.
Great vids, easy to follow... just wish 5min longer, showing the pickups being wired in as well.
Would also like to see how you attached the neck and bridge humbucker to the loom.🙏
Best tutorial ever!! i just re wire my Ibanez as73fm with good quality suff and a set of alnico II :-)
im planning to wire my as73 also whats the soundlike after
@@carlovelasco6343 much better than the original ceramic humbuckers, with a lot of headroom. I used normal size pots, which makes it a little bit more complicated when going through the F holes, if you get mini pots it is easier (I guess).
Thank you for making this video. You make it look easy. Very nice work you do. You really helped me figure out how to wire my jazz box.
A very helpful video! What is the reason for not running braided wire from the switch to the neck volume wiper? Wondering what length is considered short enough to go unshielded? But if it's not worth the hassle from a noise point of view, I'd just assume run plain cloth.
I've built three electric guitars these past few months and every single time I watched only your videos to figure out how to solder the wires in place. You are part of my building routine now :) my current build is an es 335 so this is our 4th date, how do you feel ?
Usually I watch your video a first time in my couch then a second time while I'm soldering. So like a Pavlov dog, when I hear your voice I can smell the soldering in my brain.
Haha yes man!! That’s good to know and there’ll be plenty more videos for you to work with. Honoured to have contributed to your builds. Cheers
@@SixStringSupplies Me again ! I would like to thank you a billion times again, my build is done now and the electronics went very smoothly thanks only to you. Out of gratitude, I'm considering buying a kit from you for the next build :)
the video is here: ruclips.net/video/jXdKAwHSe6M/видео.html
I've just watched an ES 335 wiring loom installation video.
I think the poor man aged 10 yrs in the process.He eventually foun you could access through the bridge pickup opening Bingo.
Ian L R
"capacitors are paper in oil...snake oil shall we say" Haha. So true.
Nice work but many say to rough up the pot surface with a file to bare the metal makes a more secure solder point.
thanks mate. It depends on the pot though. The reason some say to scuff is to remove the anti corrosion/protective coating from the pot as solder does not stick to it well. I have to do the same with the push pull pots that we stock. However, these pots in this videos, and most pots, don't have the coating on. They are called "easy-solder pots". Scuffing them is pointless as the solder sticks perfectly as you can see. Thanks again.
Great video. You do an excellent job explaining everything. Thanks.
Thank you for that.
I recently changed the pickups on my Epi 335 pro and noticed afterwards that the Neck tone control was not doing anything. Pulled the tone pot out and the wire from the volume was going to ONE terminal on tone and the capacitor was connected to the middle tas well as back of the tone pot. I tried changing to your recommendations. , Nothing changed. No tone change on the necK! Puzzled!
Very good. Thanks!
Can you use an L-shaped switch? Seems like it would look cleaner.
I had a question. Why is the neck vlume not grounded from the toggle switch but it is on the step by step instructions on the site. Will it make a difference?
Excellent video! Very informative. Thanks for spending the time on this.
No worries glad it helped you out. Cheers
So what if I don't have braided wire? And on a wiring diagram it doesn't show grounding all the pots together but the nt and nv together with the neck pickup and bt and bv with the bridge so should I follow the wiring diagram or yours?
Nvm
Thank you so much for this complete Video. I learned so much !
Nice work. Really like how clean it looks in the end.
thankyou
Clean AF
Great skillfull and simple video no mess no complication bravissimo!
Is the Braid metal? Can I cut the braid out?
To add a master volume....where should I connect it to? Great job!!!
Question:... what kind of tinned copper is this at 6:26 , how do I buy it?
I followed your FANTASTIC video exactly. Neck p/u works but not the bridge. Suggestions on trouble shooting? thanks!
this might help: ruclips.net/video/J3wQe3KCAfY/видео.html
Is it necessary to ground all that?
What is bt, nt stand for on the board
When you grounded the bridge volume, why did you not just solder the braid to the pot as before? You made a small tail instead?
where you can find the black rubber thing wrapped around the braided wire as earth?
sixstringsupplies.co.uk/collections/wire/products/guitar-heat-shrink-tubing
Excellent!!
Why didn't you use shielded wire for the neck volume?
this video is quite old - we do now and have done fo rthe past few years.
To answer your question, the distance from switch to neck volume is so short that shielded cable is not necessary - there is no risk of noise interference by using non-shielded wire for this connection
How many times has solder accidentally flowed into the small pot hole?
You must have a five thousand watt and nine thousand degree iron because my Weller station I have to hold the iron on whatever I'm soldering until it melts everything in the vicinity and then my solder just drips on the table.
LOL.....I suck at soldering, some where I managed to while running the grounds solder threw the braided ground and into the hot wire! everywhere I test is grounded out .....☹️
I note that you have not used shielded wire throughout?
Yeah just the switch to neck volume isn’t
Six String Supplies - I prefer to use shielding throughout!
I have pulled out the wiring harness on my Gibson ES335 many times - it is tricky at the best of times. I decided to re-wire and install a new harness with new pots. I wired the braids to the back of the pots (as per the old harness). Unfortunately, I now cannot get the pots through the F holes. Your video is great as it shows how you have wired the braiding to the side of the pots - hopefully they will fit in a lot easier. I am pissed off as I wired it carefully and it looked great - but would not fit!!!!!
Bernhard Nizynski hi, remove the. Ridge pickup and put the harness in that way
@@SixStringSupplies - not possible - it is solid down the centre!
Super clean. Can I use guitar wire to ground the the switch?
you can use any wire you see fit. Wire is wire :)
@@SixStringSupplies Thank you.
I've never used the braided wire you use here. What's the chance of solder soaking through the cloth and shorting the conductor to the braid?
Great video thanks!
Great guide. What are the size/gauge spec's of the Solder and tinned copper wire that you use?
tinned copper is 18 awg
solder is 22
Is the braided wire your using stranded core or solid, and what gauge wire is it? 22? Thx.
Yeah standard Gavitt 22 - stranded
@@SixStringSupplies thx.
Great video, very tidy and easy to follow method. I am watching this in order to rewire (convert) a Stereo ES 345 into mono. My question is: how should I connect the Varitone to this wiring harness once it's done as you showed?
Thanks for watching. I’ll do a video on varitone wiring in a future video
Six String Supplies looking forward to it! Please do it, I would be really helpful. Have you got any idea of when you're going to be able to do it?
For the lenght of wire that wraps around the braided wire, can I use an inside piece of wire from the cloth pushback wire?
yes absolutely it is the best thing to use
@@SixStringSupplies thanks! Got it all weird up and installed but noticing a darker than expected tone from the neck pup. Bridge is fine. Any ideas?
I perform the same procedure but i dont get any sound. When I solder the pickup to the volume pot this marks nothing with the multimeter if i desolder pot shows 500k again. Any suggestions?
check the ground circuit. Something is shorting somewhere.
THANKYOUTHANKYOUTHANKYOU!!!
Couple of questions , why do use just cloth braided wire for the neck volume instead of the metal shielded? Would it make a difference if you did use the same wire for all components
Also why do you use all the same type of pots , I always thought the standard was2x A and 2x B types?
I think he did it this way because it is easier to have 4 pots going on a line and into the guitar rather than having 2 pots held together with the same ground. You can use 4x A types or 4x B type. Or even 3x A and 1x B. A and B xxxK are the same in terms of operation and use, but they taper off signal differently. I think A pots taper off signal (volume) faster and more dramatic whereas B pots tend to decrease signal (volume) at a steady rate so what each descending number matters whereby A pots tend to need a bigger turn to produce any difference. If that makes sense? My setup: selector switch ground gets looped over jack cable, and the two hot signals going to output lugs. Lug 3 on both volume pots gets grounded to chassis. Lug 1 on both volume puts are for hot signal from pickups and those get grounded to volume chassis as well. BV and BT gets grounded together via a piece of wire, and NV and NT gets grounded together with another, separate, wire. I too ground the output (middle lug) of both tone pots to decrease hum and noise, and I add a .15uf "Woman Tone" cap. from lug 3 neck tone to middle lug neck volume and the same for the bridge volume and tone but I use a .22 or .33 .uF for the bridge. Remember to always trace signal. Start with where the signal come IN from the amp. (Yea I know the guitar is looked at as an output and that it is called output jack, not input jack) It just helps me to think that signal come into the guitar that way I just trace where the signal will go from the live lug on the "output" jack to selector switch and I take it from there.
some good info there from D BA - but actually I just used cloth wire for that connection because it is a very short distance from the switch to the volume control. If it was a longer distance (ie a Les Paul) then I''d use braided.
What temperature did you set the Hakko at?
Hi mate typically 360-375 depends on the solder you’re using. I use lead free silver solder
Cool 😎
If you don’t understand why it’s popular, you might be tone def friend
What about the other lug of the tone pot, I just have to leave it like that?
yeah leave it
thanks very good video. i have a cuestion, can use copper in replacement tinned copper?
Yes you can but it is harder to solder
Would this fit in the ES-339?
yes - just extend the length of wire to jack
why didn't you rough up the back of the pot for the grounds.
land-o-lumox2 pieface2 because these pots have an easy solder casing on. I’ve never roughed up the pots. Some pots don’t have easy solder coating, so need roughing up.
Hi, Would that work if one had two sets B500k and A500k pots? As for tone and Bs for volume, right? Cheers.
Yes
What can you use instead of wrapping the tinned copper around all three? Cant you just run solder over all three wires and just solder together?
The idea of wrapping wire is that all three become grounded as the wire it soldered to the ground lug of the switch.
Six String Supplies can you just use a small piece of copper wire from the ground then wrap around the two braids and solder?
@@bizkitznow hi yes any naked wire will do.
How it works the switch here? Cause you are only soldering on the Neck Volume
Thank you
Marc Daniels bridge volume is soldered too sir...the braided wire that runs around the 4 pots.
@@SixStringSupplies yes sorry 🙏🏽
But what about the bridge ground?
Just run a wire from the post the bridge is mounted on to any of the pots , if you did this correctly all of them should be grounded already , I hate when people make videos and then leave people hanging , Your Welcome 👍
I figured it out I was doing it backwards my fault sorry
Ah good stuff! Enjoy.
Ok I made a template like yours..marked my holes..and drilled them...I marked volume and tone on the front..then moved those marks to back of the template. ...my pots seem to be in different positions then yours...am I missing something? ....please help
Hi sorry for delay not sure what to say I just drill through from one side.
I'm sorry but the way you make this wirering is not good at all I have try it there is no enough flexibility at all. The connexions are good but it's too straight and there is no mobility to put it back it's too strong all. I am obliged now to do it totaly more flexible...
Fair enough. Personally I prefer rigid-ness. I Hope you got it sorted!
I finaly did it, but with evey ground with a simple cable and with 10 or 12 cm of cable betwin each pot otherwise it can't put it back. Because the pots must enter in the largest part of the F hole. So like this i can fix one part after one part and the cables goes all around the hole. It's the only way to get back inside and iwas like this before. If just a cable is too short you can't get back. Voila
The aspect of how to wire the components is great! However, the soldering technique leaves a bit to be desired. Your technique wouldn't "pass muster" in any soldering course I know of. That being said, it does get the job done.
And bv
😂 Did you speed up to shorten the vid? You're pitched up quite a bit