What do you think about the logo I put int the corner of the video thumbnail? MHW stands for two things: "My Homemade World" and "Marius Hornberger Workshop"
From a designer perspective, I like it in concept. It gets the ideas across, suggests the tool use as well as the message conveyed by the check mark of getting things done. That said, it does have a bit of a clip art feel to it. Seems a little slapdash. which I don't think necessarily reflects your work ethic or attention to detail. It's a very good first pass, but I do think it could use a little work.
All done without a metal milling lathe , and having to weld anything like on some channels where they have tons of heavy equipment. I just found my solution for leveling legs. Good job dude.
I'm on your side when it comes to adjustable machine feet. They are WAY easier to adjust when they are locked. If the equipment is heavy, just use a lever whilst adjusting, like a crowbar or something. Nice video as usual, keep up the good work man. Thumbs up.
Greetings from Houston! Subscribed immediately after finding your channel. The first time I watched one of your videos I paused every time there was a wide shot showing your shop. What a nice setup! You have a remarkable shop in a tight space. I'm about to have a new shop built that will be smaller than any I have had in many years so efficiency is going to be very important. Your shop is an inspiration and your videos are very nicely done.
Great job , one suggestion tho , you could take bicycle inner tube ( cut it to shape ) glue it to bottom of the feet for vibration dampening and better traction .
Thanks bro, this segment (4:25 - 5:16) gave me all the info I needed for a project. I knew these existed but I had a really vague idea of how they worked.
Marius you are the perfect guy for this! It’s the time old problem of never having enough clamps . What about something like a truss that spans 5 feet and needs only 3 clamps . I’m picturing something like a bridge with a subtle arch that when clamped in the middle it distributes the pressure more evenly. And yes I know use a 2x4 it works fine , but it still takes a lot of clamps
Marius -For your solid version - if you find "Flexible Cutting Board" on Amazon, cut out a disk the same size as the bottom of your disk feet, then glue it on, that should allow the foot to spin much easier on the floor as you adjust it, without necessarily moving the machine (if you have any amount of weight already on it.). We used these all the time for the bottom of any leg of furniture.
You could put felt, cloth or some kind of easy-to-slide material under the foot to keep it in place when adjusting it. If you remember, the purpose of the adjustment is usually to level the cabinet, not raise it. If you just want to level it, you just lift the cabinet so it rests on the other three feet, then adjust until snug. It shouldn't move the cabinet to snug the foot. If you are raising it, such as for an out-feed table, you should pre adjust them to be close to the height you want, then snug them up. When I am making height adjustments like that, I just put a stick under the cabinet for leverage and gently lift the cabinet long enough to make the adjustment and set it back down again. I do like the added lock nut you put on to keep the foot from vibrating loose. That was good thinking.
thanks for sharing the video. if i may add my 2c, i`d say i have been guilty of "putting windows to a tent" syndrome, your leveling feet are super ok and unless you`re leveling a machine tool or a surface plate i`d put them on anything. regarding the swivel feet that play is negligible and having some weight on the thing will sit it firmly, wood will move and vibrate enough to throw level out in service. a big tap wrench can be made quickly with two pieces of steel and two bolts and pig fat is an excellent lubricant for carbon steel, the dog will lick it after tho. :D regards. peter
Nice way of fabricating the leveling feet. One thing they are missing is angular play. I know of industrial versions which have a ball connecting the threaded rod to the bottom plate hence compensating angular missalingment. But if these feet work for you I would like to say extremly well done.
You could trow between one of those spring steel washers that create tension, so it wont rattle away, or just use O rings. Little angular adjustability that comes from feet moving might be beneficial for uneven floors like ones on poorly leveled, unsanded concrete workshop/garage floors. Though most useful would be have feet like this in convention etc work bench or tool table that needs to be moved quite often, for that its pretty essential that feet does not move and rub against for instance concrete, breaking the lacker seal and letting moisture getting in and so on.
First 2 thumbs up. If a carriage bolt is used and the matting hole drilled with a drill bit for metal it would allow for angular compaction, similar to a ball and socket. A t-nut would be easier in the leg
I tried to make a table out of half a euro pallet and fence beams, where I connect the fence beams and the euro pallet with a threaded rod and screws embedded and glued into the wood. As you might've guessed, that did not work out very well. As soon as I started tightening any of the table legs it'd pull one or both screws out. I will definitely steal this idea and make a better version of it!
What you need is a bearing surface for the feet to rotate. Incorporate a thrust bearing to allow the threaded rod to rotate independent of the feet. You can either make a thrust bearing, buy them, or you can take castor wheels and remove the wheel portion, remove the mount that allows clearance for the wheels, and leave the flat plate so you can attach feet to it. The castors have a built in thrust bearing and you can tap one of the sides to accept the threaded rod.
@@MariusHornberger you could say the same about your design. You could have just knocked a wedge under the corner to level it too but obviously you wanted a way more technical approach
In the wooden foot, put a small washer at the bottom of the hole (which needs to be deeper). On that washer put a ball bearing. In the bolt head drill a hole that's wide enough to accept one third of the ball bearing. The rest is identical.
I picked up some Footmaster levelling castors recently, the levelling feet in them have /loads/ of play when unloaded (and I was worried they were faulty or something), however when the foot is loaded, it goes totally rigid. There appears to be some kind of flange that gets pressed against the casting of the err, castor, which keeps it perpendicular. Any lateral force of it is counter acted by gravity. I would invite you to explore if the swivelling foot would work out. Maybe look at the Footmaster castors for an idea of how they might function, I'm no engineer
suggestion, since you have a lathe, you could turn a steep taper on the nut that would be resting on the plate and also countersink the plate that way the slop wouldn't matter as it would be self-centering, maybe thats worth a try
You could really do with getting yourself a decent tap wrench. It makes cutting straight threads much easier. And a couple turns forward to one back is a good way of stopping the chips getting too big.
Remember to spray a little cutting oil at your drill bits when you're doing metal on metal bro. The smoke is the metal starting to burn and this just unnecessarily stresses the metals in both the bit and the workpiece. Great work and a nice project!
The proportions are good, just make it a bit larger on the thumb nail. And start each video with a full screen of the logo. Be proud of what you have done. Big green check mark is solid, like that.
Thanks! In the process of building a new, larger shop. These will definitely come in handy, as my slab was poured by the cheapest Ed bidder and is not level.....🤨
There was a RUclipsr I remember seeing who used hockey pucks instead of plywood for the foot. Seemed like a pretty neat idea, might be less prone to slipping on a smooth floor.
They look nice, but they require more materials than many other options, as well as more work. I like the simplicity (and cost) of using only a drillbit, chisel, glue, and a nut and bolt.
Maybe one improvement: change the top nut (locking nut) to a wingnut. But only for something you move around often that needs more frequent adjusting. And in many cases you only need two of them to be adjustable. Put the adjustable ones on the front for easy access.
Have you ever tried using a rod coupling nut fully embedded in the leg in place of a hex nut. A rod coupling would provide much more support for the threaded rod, about 3 or more rod diameters vice 1 diameter for a standard size hex nut. You wouldn't need the washer or the tapped plate so less work, no drilling, no tap required, and fewer parts. Drill hole to the major diameter of the nut leaving the end just proud of the bottom of the leg by one or two mm and epoxy it in place. It will never move. Example nut: Low-Strength Steel Coupling Nut, Zinc-Plated, M12 x 1.75 mm Thread - McMaster item 93355A360
Hi Marius, I just made these feet today - so thank you! I thought you might be interested in my experience. I was following exactly, expect using M10 instead of M12. Everything went smoothly apart from drilling for the pin to make the lock-nut. I'm not sure what I was doing wrong, but it was very tough to get the hole through, and I managed only for 3 of 6 feet with 2 broken bits. I was using a drill-press, a punch, plenty of lubrication, and new bits. I wasn't using a drill-press vice, I held the piece with a block of wood with a M10 thread cut through it - maybe the hold wasn't firm enough? Or could it be that some nuts are made of harder steel? After getting through the nut, penetrating the bolt was no problem, then the second "layer" of nut was hard again. I'm not so experienced in drilling metal - so any advice would be appreciated! Thanks - by the way - for all the great videos.
The problem there is the interupted cut when you drill through the threads. Especially small drill bits don't like that. And maybe you didn't have enough rpm. With a 2-3mm bit I'd use 1500rpm or more and a slow constant feed when you go through the threads
@@MariusHornberger Thanks for the quick reply! I tried your suggestions today, and you're definitely right that it's the threads that are the problem. I was using 3mm @ ~500 rpm yesterday. I increased to 1500 rpm today, and tried to feed as slowly and smoothly as possible - but it didn't change the experience much. I got through one more nut, and on the next one the bit simply wouldn't travel past the thread. I'm very curious to know what I'm doing wrong. On the plus side: all this metal work makes me appreciate how easy it is to cut wood 🙂 All the best, Richard
If you file some more, use your arms not your whole upper body. Be aware of material combinations that may corrode each other when you use different metals contacting each other. If you cut with your angle grinder, some metals will loose their hardening heating them up. Interesting channel. Subbed.
hallo Marius könnte es sein dass die Füße die Werkbank beim drehen bewegen will die Unterseite nicht perfekt plan und 90 grad zur schraube stehen. wenn dass so wehre könntest du sie einfach in die Drechsel einspannen und plan drehen. das habe ich gemacht und ich hatte keine Probleme. aber Davon abgesehen kann ich dir zustimmen es ist ein ein perfektes designe bei mir wackelt auch nichts und sie sind echt Billig
Next improvement to these. Use threaded rod and run it up to the top of the bench so that instead of having to get on the ground to turn a foot .... you can put a socket on and adjust foot height from standing position.
Does anybody know, which drill press @MariusHornberger uses? Seems to be a Bernardo... Weiß jemand, was der @MariusHornberger für eine Säulenbohrmaschine nutzt? Sieht nach einer Bernardo aus...
Just wondering about the taps, from the ones I have used previously, the first one cuts the treads, and the 2 others are for a blind hole, so you get the threads all the way down. This is not the case with yours? 🤔
DIY? Maybe for an experienced person with a shop full of professional level equipment! I'll have to settle for store bought. Interesting video though :)
@@MariusHornberger my parents had it throughout their whole house and when you moved a bed the dents were irreparable. Loved the adjustable feet handy for many things including foosball tables.
The play in the feet should not matter, since there will be infinite play between the feet and the floor anyway. The stabillity comes from the weight of the table.
![making a leveling foot for table legs [woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lzuz2nm4Pac/mqdefault.jpg)
What do you think about the logo I put int the corner of the video thumbnail? MHW stands for two things: "My Homemade World" and "Marius Hornberger Workshop"
Is nice, but maybe could be improved with some more detail and embellishment?
What does it say? MHW? Hard to tell. Looks kind of like a ROHS certification...
From a designer perspective, I like it in concept. It gets the ideas across, suggests the tool use as well as the message conveyed by the check mark of getting things done. That said, it does have a bit of a clip art feel to it. Seems a little slapdash. which I don't think necessarily reflects your work ethic or attention to detail. It's a very good first pass, but I do think it could use a little work.
Smaller check mark and bigger letters.
Oh. When I show it on my mobile screen I can see it’s also a sawblade.
All done without a metal milling lathe , and having to weld anything like on some channels where they have tons of heavy equipment. I just found my solution for leveling legs. Good job dude.
I always get a little bit excited when I see a new video from you Marius! Love your work!
I'm on your side when it comes to adjustable machine feet. They are WAY easier to adjust when they are locked. If the equipment is heavy, just use a lever whilst adjusting, like a crowbar or something. Nice video as usual, keep up the good work man. Thumbs up.
Greetings from Houston! Subscribed immediately after finding your channel. The first time I watched one of your videos I paused every time there was a wide shot showing your shop. What a nice setup! You have a remarkable shop in a tight space. I'm about to have a new shop built that will be smaller than any I have had in many years so efficiency is going to be very important. Your shop is an inspiration and your videos are very nicely done.
You were not kidding with a BIG FILE. Wow!
Great job , one suggestion tho , you could take bicycle inner tube ( cut it to shape ) glue it to bottom of the feet for vibration dampening and better traction .
don't stop doing vids.lol i love watching them and always learn something new. thumbs up Marius
Thanks bro, this segment (4:25 - 5:16) gave me all the info I needed for a project. I knew these existed but I had a really vague idea of how they worked.
Marius you are the perfect guy for this! It’s the time old problem of never having enough clamps . What about something like a truss that spans 5 feet and needs only 3 clamps . I’m picturing something like a bridge with a subtle arch that when clamped in the middle it distributes the pressure more evenly. And yes I know use a 2x4 it works fine , but it still takes a lot of clamps
Marius -For your solid version - if you find "Flexible Cutting Board" on Amazon, cut out a disk the same size as the bottom of your disk feet, then glue it on, that should allow the foot to spin much easier on the floor as you adjust it, without necessarily moving the machine (if you have any amount of weight already on it.). We used these all the time for the bottom of any leg of furniture.
You could put felt, cloth or some kind of easy-to-slide material under the foot to keep it in place when adjusting it.
If you remember, the purpose of the adjustment is usually to level the cabinet, not raise it. If you just want to level it, you just lift the cabinet so it rests on the other three feet, then adjust until snug. It shouldn't move the cabinet to snug the foot.
If you are raising it, such as for an out-feed table, you should pre adjust them to be close to the height you want, then snug them up.
When I am making height adjustments like that, I just put a stick under the cabinet for leverage and gently lift the cabinet long enough to make the adjustment and set it back down again.
I do like the added lock nut you put on to keep the foot from vibrating loose. That was good thinking.
great Concept Marius very well done
Smart leveling feed solution you made 👍🏻
thanks for sharing the video. if i may add my 2c, i`d say i have been guilty of "putting windows to a tent" syndrome, your leveling feet are super ok and unless you`re leveling a machine tool or a surface plate i`d put them on anything. regarding the swivel feet that play is negligible and having some weight on the thing will sit it firmly, wood will move and vibrate enough to throw level out in service. a big tap wrench can be made quickly with two pieces of steel and two bolts and pig fat is an excellent lubricant for carbon steel, the dog will lick it after tho. :D regards. peter
Nice way of fabricating the leveling feet. One thing they are missing is angular play. I know of industrial versions which have a ball connecting the threaded rod to the bottom plate hence compensating angular missalingment. But if these feet work for you I would like to say extremly well done.
You could trow between one of those spring steel washers that create tension, so it wont rattle away, or just use O rings. Little angular adjustability that comes from feet moving might be beneficial for uneven floors like ones on poorly leveled, unsanded concrete workshop/garage floors. Though most useful would be have feet like this in convention etc work bench or tool table that needs to be moved quite often, for that its pretty essential that feet does not move and rub against for instance concrete, breaking the lacker seal and letting moisture getting in and so on.
First 2 thumbs up.
If a carriage bolt is used and the matting hole drilled with a drill bit for metal it would allow for angular compaction, similar to a ball and socket. A t-nut would be easier in the leg
You are absolute genius my friend..Best wishes..
calling that file The Big File is an understatement !!!!
I tried to make a table out of half a euro pallet and fence beams, where I connect the fence beams and the euro pallet with a threaded rod and screws embedded and glued into the wood. As you might've guessed, that did not work out very well. As soon as I started tightening any of the table legs it'd pull one or both screws out.
I will definitely steal this idea and make a better version of it!
Cool, please send me a picture when they're finished
@@MariusHornberger left the table project back home for the semester, but definitely will send a pic when it's finished in a few months time!
Fantastic! Thank you for this video! Simple and straight to the point
Nice, always look forward to your projects.
Always intelligent designs mixed with common sense. Great video.
What you need is a bearing surface for the feet to rotate. Incorporate a thrust bearing to allow the threaded rod to rotate independent of the feet. You can either make a thrust bearing, buy them, or you can take castor wheels and remove the wheel portion, remove the mount that allows clearance for the wheels, and leave the flat plate so you can attach feet to it. The castors have a built in thrust bearing and you can tap one of the sides to accept the threaded rod.
That seems like a lot of effort for a one time usage
@@MariusHornberger you could say the same about your design. You could have just knocked a wedge under the corner to level it too but obviously you wanted a way more technical approach
In the wooden foot, put a small washer at the bottom of the hole (which needs to be deeper). On that washer put a ball bearing. In the bolt head drill a hole that's wide enough to accept one third of the ball bearing. The rest is identical.
Every video that watch, always have me amazing of how brilliant you are! :-D Learn more thanks to you!! Engineering brilliance!!
I picked up some Footmaster levelling castors recently, the levelling feet in them have /loads/ of play when unloaded (and I was worried they were faulty or something), however when the foot is loaded, it goes totally rigid. There appears to be some kind of flange that gets pressed against the casting of the err, castor, which keeps it perpendicular. Any lateral force of it is counter acted by gravity. I would invite you to explore if the swivelling foot would work out. Maybe look at the Footmaster castors for an idea of how they might function, I'm no engineer
Ah, Marius, always excellent stuff :) I always come to your channel when I need a smart solution to something.
suggestion, since you have a lathe, you could turn a steep taper on the nut that would be resting on the plate and also countersink the plate that way the slop wouldn't matter as it would be self-centering, maybe thats worth a try
Nice how-to to this already-shown-in-other-project feet.
Sauber. Danke
I need to buy all those tools before I can get start making one.😂
Thanks I finished building your solid version with succes !!
Excellent design.. Will have to try it
You could really do with getting yourself a decent tap wrench. It makes cutting straight threads much easier. And a couple turns forward to one back is a good way of stopping the chips getting too big.
Another top video Marius,you are spoiling us!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Round the bolt heads on the lathe and size the hole in the wood for a close fit and they won't wobble.
Great work, great idea. Bravo.
Remember to spray a little cutting oil at your drill bits when you're doing metal on metal bro. The smoke is the metal starting to burn and this just unnecessarily stresses the metals in both the bit and the workpiece. Great work and a nice project!
That was the cutting oil getting hot.
@@MariusHornberger I realise my apology. Keep up the good work
I like the hockey puck concept. Garage/workshop floors might get wet on occasion.
Marius, these are great, I can't wait to finish my shop so I can make leveling feet like this.
The proportions are good, just make it a bit larger on the thumb nail. And start each video with a full screen of the logo. Be proud of what you have done. Big green check mark is solid, like that.
steel plate - check, washer with holes - check, wooden plate - check, M12 screw - check, two 'nuts' - check :P
Thanks! In the process of building a new, larger shop. These will definitely come in handy, as my slab was poured by the cheapest Ed bidder and is not level.....🤨
There was a RUclipsr I remember seeing who used hockey pucks instead of plywood for the foot. Seemed like a pretty neat idea, might be less prone to slipping on a smooth floor.
Definitely a good idea
Good job. I think that file is called a ‘big bastard’.😉
Thank you for sharing, nice job !
Make the feet hexagonal profile rather than round. A plumber's wrench would give you the mechanical advantage to adjust and maintain stability.
They look nice, but they require more materials than many other options, as well as more work. I like the simplicity (and cost) of using only a drillbit, chisel, glue, and a nut and bolt.
Kid I envy your father, must be so proud of you !!! Cheers
Maybe one improvement: change the top nut (locking nut) to a wingnut. But only for something you move around often that needs more frequent adjusting. And in many cases you only need two of them to be adjustable. Put the adjustable ones on the front for easy access.
Very useful idea!
Working with wood for some time i understood, that a welder is a "must have" tool for a woodworker ;)
Have you ever tried using a rod coupling nut fully embedded in the leg in place of a hex nut. A rod coupling would provide much more support for the threaded rod, about 3 or more rod diameters vice 1 diameter for a standard size hex nut. You wouldn't need the washer or the tapped plate so less work, no drilling, no tap required, and fewer parts. Drill hole to the major diameter of the nut leaving the end just proud of the bottom of the leg by one or two mm and epoxy it in place. It will never move. Example nut: Low-Strength Steel Coupling Nut, Zinc-Plated, M12 x 1.75 mm Thread - McMaster item 93355A360
Haven't tought about that yet. But I like that idea!
I do like those! Thanks.
Nice work
Then you tighten DeezNutz together. Love your videos Marius!
Very nice photography. Thank you. Clear, concise and in focus close-ups. Now if you can just eliminate the sound echo's! :>)
Could you get a large washer with an M11 hole and drill it out to fit the bolt more snugly.
That is a big file!
Hi Marius, I just made these feet today - so thank you! I thought you might be interested in my experience.
I was following exactly, expect using M10 instead of M12. Everything went smoothly apart from drilling for the pin to make the lock-nut. I'm not sure what I was doing wrong, but it was very tough to get the hole through, and I managed only for 3 of 6 feet with 2 broken bits. I was using a drill-press, a punch, plenty of lubrication, and new bits. I wasn't using a drill-press vice, I held the piece with a block of wood with a M10 thread cut through it - maybe the hold wasn't firm enough? Or could it be that some nuts are made of harder steel? After getting through the nut, penetrating the bolt was no problem, then the second "layer" of nut was hard again.
I'm not so experienced in drilling metal - so any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks - by the way - for all the great videos.
The problem there is the interupted cut when you drill through the threads. Especially small drill bits don't like that. And maybe you didn't have enough rpm. With a 2-3mm bit I'd use 1500rpm or more and a slow constant feed when you go through the threads
@@MariusHornberger Thanks for the quick reply! I tried your suggestions today, and you're definitely right that it's the threads that are the problem. I was using 3mm @ ~500 rpm yesterday. I increased to 1500 rpm today, and tried to feed as slowly and smoothly as possible - but it didn't change the experience much. I got through one more nut, and on the next one the bit simply wouldn't travel past the thread.
I'm very curious to know what I'm doing wrong.
On the plus side: all this metal work makes me appreciate how easy it is to cut wood 🙂
All the best,
Richard
I make a very similar item, but with carriage bolts so the feet are compliant with the floor.
I feel like he included the free spinning version in the video, just so he could say "tighten these nuts against each other".
I watched your video and had GREAT IDEA....I went on line and bought two pairs....lol...
Nice video. Good instructions and images. Cheers! : )
What about loctite in stead of cross pins? Am I missing a specifc reason for this extra step except skookumness?
Edit:
Oh my Bad commented to early
it makes sense after watching some more minutes when he wanted to wrench on that nut@Jazz
Hi. What about rubber on the bottom of the feet for vibration dampening? Love your videos. Thanks for sharing.
to adjust the fixed foot, just use a lever to lift the cabinet, adjust the foot, and let the cabinet down again. easy.
Great video. Thanks
Amazing mate.
MHW Logo looks Very mice, and I know where I am. Good Idea, nice project
Great job!
What was the cost difference between your version and a commercial one? Great vid btw.
Those guys are stronger then my feets :-)
Nice Job!!
If you file some more, use your arms not your whole upper body. Be aware of material combinations that may corrode each other when you use different metals contacting each other. If you cut with your angle grinder, some metals will loose their hardening heating them up. Interesting channel. Subbed.
Great idea.
Awesome
Thanks
love your videos and the outtakes at the end...
video idea failed projects and how to avoid that.
Well done
Maybe some rubber strips if you experience an unsatisfactory amount of vibration
hallo Marius
könnte es sein dass die Füße die Werkbank beim drehen bewegen will die Unterseite nicht perfekt plan und 90 grad zur schraube stehen. wenn dass so wehre könntest du sie einfach in die Drechsel einspannen und plan drehen. das habe ich gemacht und ich hatte keine Probleme. aber Davon abgesehen kann ich dir zustimmen es ist ein ein perfektes designe bei mir wackelt auch nichts und sie sind echt Billig
Excellent!
Not bad!
Thank you!
Next improvement to these. Use threaded rod and run it up to the top of the bench so that instead of having to get on the ground to turn a foot .... you can put a socket on and adjust foot height from standing position.
beautiful
Such a design can be helped by use of flanged nuts.
Wouldn't one adjustable foot suffice for a four legged table? Love your videos.
If you only care about wobble, yes. But I think you need more to make things level.
Does anybody know, which drill press @MariusHornberger uses? Seems to be a Bernardo...
Weiß jemand, was der @MariusHornberger für eine Säulenbohrmaschine nutzt? Sieht nach einer Bernardo aus...
Just wondering about the taps, from the ones I have used previously, the first one cuts the treads, and the 2 others are for a blind hole, so you get the threads all the way down. This is not the case with yours? 🤔
My set is just for through holes in three steps (neccesary for M12). There probably are different sets available
I use a tee nut and carriage bolt
I'm interested in the hold down at the drillpress for the washer. Could you elaborate on its parts. Thank you.
It was a screw, through another smaller washer into a scrap of wood
How's you power quick connect system holding up?
Great
Have you ever considered just using elevator bolts? You could even screw them to a wooden foot if you didn't want them directly on the floor.
That was a serious file. o_o
DIY? Maybe for an experienced person with a shop full of professional level equipment! I'll have to settle for store bought. Interesting video though :)
Would be great, to turn on the lathe decoration covers for nuts and then cut in falf and hollow it from inside with tablesaw. 😅
Do you have a cork floor? Do the machines compress it very much?
Yes, and yes...the lathe cabinet a little bit
@@MariusHornberger my parents had it throughout their whole house and when you moved a bed the dents were irreparable. Loved the adjustable feet handy for many things including foosball tables.
The play in the feet should not matter, since there will be infinite play between the feet and the floor anyway.
The stabillity comes from the weight of the table.
I would love to know what that large file is, I would love to have one in my shop
It's a large file