I bought my DR in 20218 with 4,000 miles on it. Did the usual mods and jumped back into riding at 68. Did the TAT from VA and many BDR's. Just returned from WA to VA via many trails. 26,000 miles of smiles. I put a 14 tooth on and prefer it overall. Your analysis confirms my feeling that it was preferable even on hiway. SUBSCRIBED! 73 now and planning more. YT, @jrdepew
Thanks so much. Maybe we can ride together sometime. I'll be pretty much all over starting in March and chasing moderate temps. Good to see us youngsters can keep on riding.
Initially your concept of adding a lower front sprocket obviously sounded counter-intuitive, but you're absolutely right - the engine is then operating in its sweet spot in top gear. It obviously helps off road on those steep shale hills as well. Inspired!
That plug looks the same as my Honda Falcon. They are easy to over tighten and the hex strips out. I use a slightly thicker O-ring and am careful not to over tighten. Haven't had one fall out and haven't replaced one recently
Re: most common front tires, my sense is that the Pirelli Scorpion Rally is more common and, in my opinion, a much better choice than the MT21. I used the D-sports F&R and found the F to wear out quickly and wander. The Scorpion is much better in terms of wear, on and off road performance. I suggest getting some real handguards to prevent the clutch lever from breaking. The extra clutch cable is great. Consider shrinking some shrink tube at both ends to prevent further dust ingress. Nice video. Thank you.
The previous owner of one of my bikes stripped out the engine plug. I ended up drilling two holes similar to what you have done, then heated with a torch and used an adjustable pin spanner wrench which worked!
I had done that to no avail but the final solution was to heat the motor and freeze the plug (I put up another video here) and it came out so easy it was ridiculous
Hate to be picky but that the DR redline is 7500 rpm, I have run 15/41 on my bikes for 18 years and never had a problem, after all 300 plus revs in top gear is no biggy so in my books the DR has enough torque lower down for it not to be an issue, I don’t feel the need to shift down to overtake, once the DR hits around 6000 rpm it runs out of puff anyway. Just an opinion of course, back up with experience of DR ownership of over 900,000 klms on 3 DRs. I have used my DR as a courier motorcycle in Melbourne Australia, ridden them as adventure bikes around my home state in Australia and even shipped one over to Europe and so far rode around the UK and then through Europe to Romania, the bike is currently in Croatia where I will pick it up May 2024 to ride back to the UK. Bit of a tip for the front fender if you want to have the bag on is to one, run a fender brace and two is to grab a piece of sheet aluminium about 1.6 mm think and around 100 mm wide and long enough to fit under the fender, you want to shape it so it fits the fender contour, one rivet in the centre and 2 rivets either side will stop the fender from flexing downwards at the front. I run a Wolfman fender bag with a front and rear tube and it works great. I don’t want to preach and think of what I say as suggestions, Barkbuster hand guards and some Oxford heated grips are a god send, no more broken levers and warm hands, soft pannier bags are my preferred option, if you are concerned about security steel core lockable straps are the solution, aluminium cases are just way too heavy, not to mention the racks needed to mount them, my bags and racks weigh less the 3 Kg. I love my DR and appreciate anyone who has seen the light and owns one and does the miles on it so good onya mate, keep on riding and stay safe, but most important enjoy. 👍👍👍👍
Some good insights. Thanks. I was soft luggage for a long time and I had locking cables but I have my entire life on board and just feel better with the Tusk boxes. They also keep Izzy off the ground better which is a unique concern. Even better with the alarm system as I have found rok straps cut two different times trying to get duffel bags off but obviously interrupted. I might play with the fender but I think I'm as happy without the bag and will build another tool tube. On a 35.00/day budget the changes come slow but that's OK. I do only carry a patch kit along with a spare front tube which works OK on the rear to get me out of a mess. I have wrap on hand warmers which served me well in the Arctic. Friends keep trying to sell me in hippo hands but they are - to me - so goofy looking and take up too much space in the summer. It's been a good solid bike with really nothing substantial to complain about
@@dogman9465 I had a previous owner add that extra cable to my DR, I was trying to get bike lighter and tore it out. Found it annoying. Funny enough I had a clutch cable snap on my KLR a year before with no back up, and just dry shifted it all the way home and fortunately did not have to come to complete stop LOL
My DR was being prepped for a TAT ride by the former owner who changed his mind and bought a CRF300. The front sprocket had been dropped to a 14 tooth and the bike runs great and strong. I could even stand for a little lower gearing, but that would have to be on the rear. I will leave it as it stands where it cruises 65-70 mph comfortably but still has plenty on reserve. Love the bike and have put about 5,000 miles on it including the Smoky Mtn 500 this year. MotOz GPS tires were new when I bought the bike and have performed well. Not great in mud, but pretty good everywhere else and long life. Front still looks new, rear is worn but serviceable for a while longer.
I have my second DR-650 and it’s very reliable bike. I’ve taken my bike on trails, some mud water holes and this bikes passed these with out no issues.
🇦🇺😎👍Hey mate I’ve owned 3 DRs. 2016 mod 108000 km , top end rebuild and new barrel. 2019 mod , 60000 km , top end rebuild and a 2011 mod 50000 km top end rebuild 85000 kms big gearbox problems… The first two bikes were brought new and had a full service history. The 2011 mod was sold as a damaged /repairable bike with high kms but it has been a problem bike with an unknown history … I think it’s only right to buy a DR with low kms in perfect condition like you did to help …..l get between 30000/ 33000 out of EK chains. Keep in mind I only do road riding/ commuting…I experimented with the gearing and I found the factory could not be bettered. The bike with a 14 tooth sprocket would be better suited for off road applications….. Just for the record the DRs all did 165 kms / hr with a little wind up on the flat ( no head wind )but all were capable of doing 180 kms/ hr down a big hill / cliff 😂🤣 all with standard exhausts and with open exhausts . It just took a bit longer with the standard exhaust…. Great honest video. ..Enjoy the ride and keep flying the safe 🏁
I just bought my DR650 in March 2024. This is a 2002. I'm going to try the 14 teeth. Indeed, I find that in first gear it goes too fast. Thank for your video.
I have a fender bag on my DR650. I had to add a metal support bracket from Procycle, works like a charm. I do like having the fender bag, so just passing that info along. Glad you are enjoying the DR650, it is such a great bike. Thanks for the video and sharing your experience
@@gazoolla my comment was targeted towards bracing the front fender, which would provide the support for the fender bag. If you already have a fender bag, then it's an option to keep it. For my use, the fender bag is the dedicated storage for tire irons, extra tube, and other tools to take off the tire. I could easily move this to a tail bag and it would serve the same function. Long way of saying it's personal preference. Use what you have and modify it to your specific needs and wants. Cheers
I agree with your 14 vs 15 tooth sprocket preference. You can't change a persons preference on big boobs or small boobs. I myself enjoy all boobs. Enjoy "Your" ride. Thanks Steve.
Your thoughtful insights are much appreciated. Centre-stand is highly worthwhile persevering with, for ease of maintenance, efficient parking and long-term preservation of suspension. Factory-lowering procedure will bring bike frame-height down 1 1/2 "; so just as you need to shorten sidestand accordingly ( or fit silver-coloured OEM version from Suzuki, which is still too long); so also will you need to shorten legs of centrestand. S.W.Motech and Chinese knockoff brands are only mild steel, and easy to cut and reweld feet back on. Shorten the legs initially by about 1 1/4" ; then patient experimentation by trial and error required here. Bike frame-height is critical for lifting leverage effort required; and even a significant change of tyre-size will affect the ideal leg length to suit. You can just cut legs off short and carry around a light pine board for ground packing underneath.(say 16" X 5 X 1/2" or similar) Awkward to manipulate with your foot! Better still, I myself keep on hand a couple of different modified centrestands to suit different tyres. I have just fitted longer "dog-bones" to lower bike frame-height another 1 1/2"; so will need again to cut my legs further.
Great thought on the Centerstand. I had not considered the lowering but you're right.. I had to get an adjustable side stand so that makes perfect sense.
Mixed thoughts and, without actually doing it, im reluctant to recommend too much. In the case of the DR I BELIEVE the other components are up to it. Things such as the clutch, chain, and bottom end seem to be solid enough with a capability reserve. The brakes are already a bit weak so you have to be aware of that if you get faster but I don't see it as an unreasonable load on the rest of the power train
So many opinions about the sprockets. What you say makes perfect sense. When you change gearing you are trading torque for top speed, or vice versa. A common misconception people seem to have is that the torque increase is only off the line and that speed only increases in top gear. In reality it is in every gear across the entire rev range. I geared my bike up because I like leisurely rides at low revs without having to shift as much. Problem is now that on the highway my 6th gear is almost entirely useless. It makes sense that gearing down would give more pull in every gear.
I'm glad that makes sense. Even fuel burn has more to do with manifold pressure than rpm so that doesn't change per speed but it's easier to go faster with the 14 tooth. The only limitation would be in the 95+ mph range where you'd run into redline sooner but you probably couldn't even pull redline on flat if stepped up to a 16 tooth. I rode a few hundred miles with a friend with a KLR who went up a tooth on the front for our trip. After bogging down on every hill and accelerating slowly he went back to standard and gets why dropping a tooth works even better.
Exactly! I make regular passes coast to coast and this has become my regular southern route stop before going into the Los Angeles mess. It's also great for Joshua tree NP access
Good chat, all valid points. As far as sprockets go, my outgoing KLX250/300r came with a 47rear as apposed to the 42 stock. And with the extra power from the extra bore, the larger head and header pipe with matched pipe and carbi jetted correctly, air box snorkel replaced, must have given it an extra 25%+ torque through the rev range. I previously owned a stock 2016 KLX250s. So my point here it was geared too low. So instead of going back to a 42 rear I went up 1 tooth up front. This left the final about 4.33% lower then stock. Which for my mixed usage is about where I want to be. If I was on the highway or even secondary tar roads always I would perhaps go back to stock or even a tad higher. In summary, I'm in agreement with your logic. Apart from the fact that this larger motor would pull the 15/42 well and suit freeway speeds here in Australia, (75mph) But as I usually sit on or around 60mph it's not warranted for mixed riding. First gear is good where it is. Sorry for the drawn out ramble 🖖 Edit: Its replacement is a KLX400r (DRz) it has snail chain adjusters 👍 And a bit more torque.
Hey young man, 😂A 14 tooth front sprocket makes a lot of sense! Less slipping the clutch in first gear, is worth adding a few extra top end RPM's. Thanks for the dose of wisdom; hope it quells some of the know it all's!
While not a DR650, my '96 XR650L which in a big picture sense is similar enough..just rolled over 30K miles..if you can manage the weight, these old school big thumpers are just terrific machines..utterly reliable and nearly free to own, insure, register etc...
14 tooth, me too; try to keep it 70 mph or lower, which is hard because it's right in the power band at that speed. Sustained high revs may use more oil also, certainly does on KLR. Real handguards... yes! Very protective of bike (levers, mirrors, bars) and rider. Shinko 244 tires are a great compromise; 705s are great street tires. ;) Mine is lowered, and finally did the factory lowering to the front. Way better on the street!
The custom built palace I made for my ever present dog. I think I have a video up somewhere. It's foam and glass aircraft style construction. It's bulky but extremely light and strong
Hey Steve, I've been enjoying your DR video. There is no substitute for experience, and I appreciate the valuable info. Which other fuel tank/ size did you think may be better? Safe travels!
when say to "safety", are you referring to a better dirt/offroad capability, or on road, or both? I know the weight is comparably light to other bike. thanks, great review, I want a DR! 😊
Izzy is a 6_1/2 lb Pappilon/Pomeranian mix. I think most of the bigger dogs are usimg the "Go Ruffly" systems which are b kind of padded tubular frames. They seem very solid. My friend Tracy Charles has her larger dog Roo with her in South America. Her RUclips is @Tracylyncharles I could build a composite carrier but it would be different than mine obviously.
How’s the vibrations level? My friend said his hands got numb after a six hour stint while I on DL650 had no problems. This was after completing the MABDR north to Wellsboro PA.
What a great set up. I just happen to stumble on your video. Love the dog set up too. And last, the chain adjustment is super nice, I've never seen that system before. I had a KLR for years and took that thing to places you're not supposed to but I alway knew the DR was a way better bike. Cheers to Steve's Journey!
It's a 2021 that I bought and started riding March of 2023. We live on and ride full time so average 2500-3000 miles per month. Starting off slower this year but will pick up pace in a few weeks.
I'd even agree with that but apparently a few people think it's blasphemous to ride a motorcycle at motorcycle rpms. With all the long distance I do, it seems 14 is the best choice but it depends on each person's ride profile.
Great video! In the minority opinion here but I ride a lot of Dual sport conditions and I prefer the 15 tooth. Maybe it's just my riding style but I like to hit Corners fast in second gear Instead of clutching out of them in third. I rarely lug anything. I slip the clutch. I tried the 14 and felt like my rhythm was constrained. I ride mostly dirt roads and fire roads rather than single track so there is that to consider. But a tall first gear never bothered me. In my opinion it means I can maneuver a little before having to shift. Balance and Flow. Just my style. Stock gearing is for me.
I gotta agree. I ride mostly off-road, and on the hilly two track that I prefer second gear with stock gearing and 606 tires is absolutely DIALED right in the power band, perfect engine braking and enough torque to ride from 15-40mph and slide that rear tire all over the place with power. Never have to shift, just ride. Best bike I have ever ridden for that type riding.
Old rider from Southern Africa here. Couldn’t get a 14 tooth when I wanted it but went up to a 43 tooth rear with positive feedback. Plenty riders from Oz talk of a 44 tooth rear to be optimal, especially in gravel travel…
That might be a great combination. I really wanted a 45 tooth rear to keep the 1:3 ratio with a 15 tooth front sprocket with a better front diameter. But can't find a 45 rear and this works well. I imagine a 44 rear is very similar. Ride on!
I have a freewind, which is a dr 650but a bit more street oriented, same engine. I have a warning.. Mine crapped itself at 35000 miles. It was an old bike '99. I really liked this bike, so I bought the same again. I did not want to have happen this again. So i did some investigation. I saw three bikes for sale in parts. I phoned up all three and asked them, why do you sell it in parts? To my suprise all three! said the same thing.. the oilpump stopped working, because the plastic gear that drives the oilpump broke a tooth and so it stopped and ruined the top end. Obviously i changed that sprocket. It was 17 dollars and 2,5 hours of work. I asked an engineer, is this normal, he said; this kind of plastic, nylon, usually dies at 15 or 20 years or with higher milage. Maybe this warning saves a bike or two, cheers.
I've seen that posted a time or two. Mine is a 2021 and I suspect age has more to do with plastic crystallization but I'll look into changing that out. Much appreciated.
@@stevesjourney7000 that is a very young bike, you should be fine, I read somewhere that the drz 400 has the same issue. The bikes that had a tooth broken all had run about 35.000 or 50.000km, but like you I think it is age that does them inn. The XF was only build between 97 and 2002.
I hate the snail-cam chain adjusters, because the large gaps between notches means that the chain is nearly always running either too loose or too tight. The only way I have found to obtain optimal chain tension is by inserting little shims cut out from sheet-aluminium into the space between the notches and the pegs, which is all very fiddly. For the snail-cam system to match the precise distance-adjustment of a threaded bolt system, you would need to have a notch-pattern like a fine sawtooth, running against a sharp pointed peg.
That's interesting. I find them to be exactly right. Seems to keep the chain right in a good range for me. It is a bigger jump than can be done with a threaded adjuster but I love them and have gotten over 15k miles out of chains and that was a premature change only because I only get so many times where I have an address to ship to and a place to work. I guess everyone has different experiences.
I totally agree on your sprocket assessment. I have a versys x300 and went up one tooth to calm it down a bit and the bike pulls it no problem. However when I did a high speed run my top speed dropped by about 8 or 10 mph because the motor just could no longer hit the max rpm even though it makes the most power at max rpm. It’s better for general riding so I keep it that way. Great episode by the way. As an ex Klr rider I plan to add a DR to my garage. I didn’t know it had screw and nut valve adjuster till I saw this video. I’m sold!
Appreciate the opinion from an experienced rider who puts some serious milage on the bike. 14 tooth sprocket explanation made sense to me.
I bought my DR in 20218 with 4,000 miles on it. Did the usual mods and jumped back into riding at 68. Did the TAT from VA and many BDR's. Just returned from WA to VA via many trails. 26,000 miles of smiles. I put a 14 tooth on and prefer it overall. Your analysis confirms my feeling that it was preferable even on hiway. SUBSCRIBED! 73 now and planning more. YT, @jrdepew
Thanks so much. Maybe we can ride together sometime. I'll be pretty much all over starting in March and chasing moderate temps. Good to see us youngsters can keep on riding.
just turned 57 thinking (another)DR will be my retirment bike
What is your life advice
Initially your concept of adding a lower front sprocket obviously sounded counter-intuitive, but you're absolutely right - the engine is then operating in its sweet spot in top gear. It obviously helps off road on those steep shale hills as well. Inspired!
Im running a 14/46 sproket combo and I love it. 6k rpms at 75 mph and it's soooo much better on trails. 😊
Nice!!
That's the sweet spot for sure.
At 73.. with lots of bikes, my yellow 2003 dr, I'm thinking, will be my most fun. As new all summer Co.western slope Reliable adventure.
Awesome video! Could listen to you talk about the dr all day 😂!
Thank you. I tend to just ramble.
That plug looks the same as my Honda Falcon. They are easy to over tighten and the hex strips out. I use a slightly thicker O-ring and am careful not to over tighten. Haven't had one fall out and haven't replaced one recently
Re: most common front tires, my sense is that the Pirelli Scorpion Rally is more common and, in my opinion, a much better choice than the MT21. I used the D-sports F&R and found the F to wear out quickly and wander. The Scorpion is much better in terms of wear, on and off road performance.
I suggest getting some real handguards to prevent the clutch lever from breaking.
The extra clutch cable is great. Consider shrinking some shrink tube at both ends to prevent further dust ingress.
Nice video. Thank you.
Thanks Steve, always good to learn from someone putting real miles on a bike like you do!
Thanks. It's nothing profound but I think I've learned a few things and really think it's a great bike.
Yes wow, learned so much!
23:08 "no use in arguing over opinion with experience an MATH!!" Love it..yep agree an great review!!!
The previous owner of one of my bikes stripped out the engine plug. I ended up drilling two holes similar to what you have done, then heated with a torch and used an adjustable pin spanner wrench which worked!
I had done that to no avail but the final solution was to heat the motor and freeze the plug (I put up another video here) and it came out so easy it was ridiculous
Hate to be picky but that the DR redline is 7500 rpm, I have run 15/41 on my bikes for 18 years and never had a problem, after all 300 plus revs in top gear is no biggy so in my books the DR has enough torque lower down for it not to be an issue, I don’t feel the need to shift down to overtake, once the DR hits around 6000 rpm it runs out of puff anyway.
Just an opinion of course, back up with experience of DR ownership of over 900,000 klms on 3 DRs.
I have used my DR as a courier motorcycle in Melbourne Australia, ridden them as adventure bikes around my home state in Australia and even shipped one over to Europe and so far rode around the UK and then through Europe to Romania, the bike is currently in Croatia where I will pick it up May 2024 to ride back to the UK.
Bit of a tip for the front fender if you want to have the bag on is to one, run a fender brace and two is to grab a piece of sheet aluminium about 1.6 mm think and around 100 mm wide and long enough to fit under the fender, you want to shape it so it fits the fender contour, one rivet in the centre and 2 rivets either side will stop the fender from flexing downwards at the front.
I run a Wolfman fender bag with a front and rear tube and it works great.
I don’t want to preach and think of what I say as suggestions, Barkbuster hand guards and some Oxford heated grips are a god send, no more broken levers and warm hands, soft pannier bags are my preferred option, if you are concerned about security steel core lockable straps are the solution, aluminium cases are just way too heavy, not to mention the racks needed to mount them, my bags and racks weigh less the 3 Kg.
I love my DR and appreciate anyone who has seen the light and owns one and does the miles on it so good onya mate, keep on riding and stay safe, but most important enjoy. 👍👍👍👍
Some good insights. Thanks. I was soft luggage for a long time and I had locking cables but I have my entire life on board and just feel better with the Tusk boxes. They also keep Izzy off the ground better which is a unique concern. Even better with the alarm system as I have found rok straps cut two different times trying to get duffel bags off but obviously interrupted.
I might play with the fender but I think I'm as happy without the bag and will build another tool tube. On a 35.00/day budget the changes come slow but that's OK. I do only carry a patch kit along with a spare front tube which works OK on the rear to get me out of a mess. I have wrap on hand warmers which served me well in the Arctic. Friends keep trying to sell me in hippo hands but they are - to me - so goofy looking and take up too much space in the summer.
It's been a good solid bike with really nothing substantial to complain about
I think he was referring to altitude rather than rpm.
Excellent video. Very informative. Thank you Steve.. 👍🏼
Thank you so much. I just try to be straight about what I find. Ride safe.
hello friend, 2022 klr650 rider here, but damn this is one of the best reviews I have seen, thanks!!!!
Well thank you so much. I just kind of ramble but try to tell it like it is.
Appreciate you sharing the experience, knowledge, and wisdom man...🤘💪
extra routed clutch cable,u the man lol
i wore out a throttle cable at the carb once on my DR
@@dogman9465 I had a previous owner add that extra cable to my DR, I was trying to get bike lighter and tore it out. Found it annoying. Funny enough I had a clutch cable snap on my KLR a year before with no back up, and just dry shifted it all the way home and fortunately did not have to come to complete stop LOL
My DR was being prepped for a TAT ride by the former owner who changed his mind and bought a CRF300. The front sprocket had been dropped to a 14 tooth and the bike runs great and strong. I could even stand for a little lower gearing, but that would have to be on the rear. I will leave it as it stands where it cruises 65-70 mph comfortably but still has plenty on reserve. Love the bike and have put about 5,000 miles on it including the Smoky Mtn 500 this year.
MotOz GPS tires were new when I bought the bike and have performed well. Not great in mud, but pretty good everywhere else and long life. Front still looks new, rear is worn but serviceable for a while longer.
I know there is no bike that does everything perfect but this does everything pretty darn well. Thanks for the observations
I have my second DR-650 and it’s very reliable bike. I’ve taken my bike on trails, some mud water holes and this bikes passed these with out no issues.
🇦🇺😎👍Hey mate I’ve owned 3 DRs. 2016 mod 108000 km , top end rebuild and new barrel. 2019 mod , 60000 km , top end rebuild and a 2011 mod 50000 km top end rebuild 85000 kms big gearbox problems… The first two bikes were brought new and had a full service history. The 2011 mod was sold as a damaged /repairable bike with high kms but it has been a problem bike with an unknown history … I think it’s only right to buy a DR with low kms in perfect condition like you did to help …..l get between 30000/ 33000 out of EK chains. Keep in mind I only do road riding/ commuting…I experimented with the gearing and I found the factory could not be bettered. The bike with a 14 tooth sprocket would be better suited for off road applications….. Just for the record the DRs all did 165 kms / hr with a little wind up on the flat ( no head wind )but all were capable of doing 180 kms/ hr down a big hill / cliff 😂🤣 all with standard exhausts and with open exhausts . It just took a bit longer with the standard exhaust…. Great honest video. ..Enjoy the ride and keep flying the safe 🏁
I just bought my DR650 in March 2024. This is a 2002. I'm going to try the 14 teeth. Indeed, I find that in first gear it goes too fast. Thank for your video.
Thanks for the excellent review. Just bought my third DR!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks
I have a fender bag on my DR650. I had to add a metal support bracket from Procycle, works like a charm. I do like having the fender bag, so just passing that info along.
Glad you are enjoying the DR650, it is such a great bike. Thanks for the video and sharing your experience
Thanks. I may not give up on it yet. I'll look at that and build something. My budget doesn't let me buy a lot but there's usually a way to fake it. 😊
Why is the fender bag useful over say a tank bag or tail bag? What do you put in it?
@@gazoolla my comment was targeted towards bracing the front fender, which would provide the support for the fender bag. If you already have a fender bag, then it's an option to keep it.
For my use, the fender bag is the dedicated storage for tire irons, extra tube, and other tools to take off the tire. I could easily move this to a tail bag and it would serve the same function. Long way of saying it's personal preference. Use what you have and modify it to your specific needs and wants. Cheers
2:30 القرب نن الشي..يعطيك خبرته..وحكمته..وأنت الأفضل دائما لإنقاذ نفسك والاعتناء بها. شكرا
I agree with your 14 vs 15 tooth sprocket preference. You can't change a persons preference on big boobs or small boobs. I myself enjoy all boobs. Enjoy "Your" ride. Thanks Steve.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 Never met a boob I didn't like
Your thoughtful insights are much appreciated.
Centre-stand is highly worthwhile persevering with, for ease of maintenance, efficient parking and long-term preservation of suspension. Factory-lowering procedure will bring bike frame-height down 1 1/2 "; so just as you need to shorten sidestand accordingly ( or fit silver-coloured OEM version from Suzuki, which is still too long); so also will you need to shorten legs of centrestand.
S.W.Motech and Chinese knockoff brands are only mild steel, and easy to cut and reweld feet back on. Shorten the legs initially by about 1 1/4" ; then patient experimentation by trial and error required here.
Bike frame-height is critical for lifting leverage effort required; and even a significant change of tyre-size will affect the ideal leg length to suit.
You can just cut legs off short and carry around a light pine board for ground packing underneath.(say 16" X 5 X 1/2" or similar) Awkward to manipulate with your foot!
Better still, I myself keep on hand a couple of different modified centrestands to suit different tyres.
I have just fitted longer "dog-bones" to lower bike frame-height another 1 1/2"; so will need again to cut my legs further.
Great thought on the Centerstand. I had not considered the lowering but you're right.. I had to get an adjustable side stand so that makes perfect sense.
I'ma new subscriber. You seem very knowledgeable. What are your thoughts on the 790 mod?
Mixed thoughts and, without actually doing it, im reluctant to recommend too much. In the case of the DR I BELIEVE the other components are up to it. Things such as the clutch, chain, and bottom end seem to be solid enough with a capability reserve. The brakes are already a bit weak so you have to be aware of that if you get faster but I don't see it as an unreasonable load on the rest of the power train
Excellent, Thank you
I'm happy you got something positive from my rambling. 😊
So many opinions about the sprockets. What you say makes perfect sense. When you change gearing you are trading torque for top speed, or vice versa. A common misconception people seem to have is that the torque increase is only off the line and that speed only increases in top gear. In reality it is in every gear across the entire rev range. I geared my bike up because I like leisurely rides at low revs without having to shift as much. Problem is now that on the highway my 6th gear is almost entirely useless. It makes sense that gearing down would give more pull in every gear.
I'm glad that makes sense. Even fuel burn has more to do with manifold pressure than rpm so that doesn't change per speed but it's easier to go faster with the 14 tooth. The only limitation would be in the 95+ mph range where you'd run into redline sooner but you probably couldn't even pull redline on flat if stepped up to a 16 tooth. I rode a few hundred miles with a friend with a KLR who went up a tooth on the front for our trip. After bogging down on every hill and accelerating slowly he went back to standard and gets why dropping a tooth works even better.
Look like camp behind General Patton Museum, great place for an overnighter.
Exactly! I make regular passes coast to coast and this has become my regular southern route stop before going into the Los Angeles mess. It's also great for Joshua tree NP access
Good chat, all valid points. As far as sprockets go, my outgoing KLX250/300r came with a 47rear as apposed to the 42 stock. And with the extra power from the extra bore, the larger head and header pipe with matched pipe and carbi jetted correctly, air box snorkel replaced, must have given it an extra 25%+ torque through the rev range. I previously owned a stock 2016 KLX250s.
So my point here it was geared too low. So instead of going back to a 42 rear I went up 1 tooth up front. This left the final about 4.33% lower then stock. Which for my mixed usage is about where I want to be. If I was on the highway or even secondary tar roads always I would perhaps go back to stock or even a tad higher.
In summary, I'm in agreement with your logic. Apart from the fact that this larger motor would pull the 15/42 well and suit freeway speeds here in Australia, (75mph) But as I usually sit on or around 60mph it's not warranted for mixed riding. First gear is good where it is.
Sorry for the drawn out ramble 🖖
Edit: Its replacement is a KLX400r (DRz) it has snail chain adjusters 👍 And a bit more torque.
Thanks so much for the insights. We all benefit from everyone's real world results. Ride safe
Any chance you could do a video on the tools and spare parts you carry?
I'll see if I can get to that.
Hey young man, 😂A 14 tooth front sprocket makes a lot of sense! Less slipping the clutch in first gear, is worth adding a few extra top end RPM's. Thanks for the dose of wisdom; hope it quells some of the know it all's!
I appreciate the "young man". Lol.
@@stevesjourney7000 Could you comment on the 1st gear difference? What has the 'idle RPM" speed come down to?
Thank you for the great info.
Glad it was helpful!
While not a DR650, my '96 XR650L which in a big picture sense is similar enough..just rolled over 30K miles..if you can manage the weight, these old school big thumpers are just terrific machines..utterly reliable and nearly free to own, insure, register etc...
That's a great bike! My only issue is being vertically challenged or I'd look to the XR or even the DR-Z
I found the same thing with the gearing on my xr600. 14 tooth on the front good off road and plenty fast enough for the Oz highways
14 tooth, me too; try to keep it 70 mph or lower, which is hard because it's right in the power band at that speed. Sustained high revs may use more oil also, certainly does on KLR.
Real handguards... yes! Very protective of bike (levers, mirrors, bars) and rider.
Shinko 244 tires are a great compromise; 705s are great street tires. ;)
Mine is lowered, and finally did the factory lowering to the front. Way better on the street!
What is that massive thing you have attached to the back? ....Great video by the way,
The custom built palace I made for my ever present dog. I think I have a video up somewhere. It's foam and glass aircraft style construction. It's bulky but extremely light and strong
ruclips.net/video/0DsXUzJNHus/видео.htmlsi=e-0D6pZbKADmpLeO
Good content on a great bike. All I would add is leave the clutch bracket a little loose and it will just move if you drop it Good stuff.
Good tip!. I like that. I did upgrade the hand guards
Such a great review, the 2010 DR650 does not have a rev counter so how does one work out the rpm?
I believe you know what you are talking about the people complaining probably haven't road a bike as much as you have.
Hey Steve, I've been enjoying your DR video. There is no substitute for experience, and I appreciate the valuable info.
Which other fuel tank/ size did you think may be better?
Safe travels!
when say to "safety", are you referring to a better dirt/offroad capability, or on road, or both? I know the weight is comparably light to other bike. thanks, great review, I want a DR! 😊
Great vid. Love the setup, especially the dog box. What kinda dog do you ride with? Been trying to find a way to bring my 65lb husky along with me...
Izzy is a 6_1/2 lb Pappilon/Pomeranian mix. I think most of the bigger dogs are usimg the "Go Ruffly" systems which are b kind of padded tubular frames. They seem very solid. My friend Tracy Charles has her larger dog Roo with her in South America. Her RUclips is
@Tracylyncharles I could build a composite carrier but it would be different than mine obviously.
Very cool stuff. Thanks for the info. @@stevesjourney7000
Thanks for discussion on front sprocket. Can you confirm what rear sprocket size are you running?
Just the stock 42. I'm happy that it works so well on both ends.
🤘🏻 🌟 🤘
How’s the vibrations level? My friend said his hands got numb after a six hour stint while I on DL650 had no problems. This was after completing the MABDR north to Wellsboro PA.
What a great set up. I just happen to stumble on your video. Love the dog set up too. And last, the chain adjustment is super nice, I've never seen that system before. I had a KLR for years and took that thing to places you're not supposed to but I alway knew the DR was a way better bike. Cheers to Steve's Journey!
Thank you
That’s incredible to be me that you did that many miles on a dirt bike in such a short period ! What year is your DR ?
It's a 2021 that I bought and started riding March of 2023. We live on and ride full time so average 2500-3000 miles per month. Starting off slower this year but will pick up pace in a few weeks.
I’ve never rode with 15 tooth,
But about a couple thousand with 14.
It still seems geared high to me .
I'd even agree with that but apparently a few people think it's blasphemous to ride a motorcycle at motorcycle rpms. With all the long distance I do, it seems 14 is the best choice but it depends on each person's ride profile.
What modelismo YOUR bike?,From Coral Springs FL .❤️❤️
Great video! In the minority opinion here but I ride a lot of Dual sport conditions and I prefer the 15 tooth. Maybe it's just my riding style but I like to hit Corners fast in second gear Instead of clutching out of them in third. I rarely lug anything. I slip the clutch. I tried the 14 and felt like my rhythm was constrained. I ride mostly dirt roads and fire roads rather than single track so there is that to consider. But a tall first gear never bothered me. In my opinion it means I can maneuver a little before having to shift. Balance and Flow. Just my style. Stock gearing is for me.
You certainly have to go with what works for you. 😊
@@stevesjourney7000 Great tip on the Warp 9 starter cap. My Dr's starter also sounds like geese fighting.
I gotta agree. I ride mostly off-road, and on the hilly two track that I prefer second gear with stock gearing and 606 tires is absolutely DIALED right in the power band, perfect engine braking and enough torque to ride from 15-40mph and slide that rear tire all over the place with power. Never have to shift, just ride. Best bike I have ever ridden for that type riding.
14 tooth is what I run also , never an issue.
Old rider from Southern Africa here. Couldn’t get a 14 tooth when I wanted it but went up to a 43 tooth rear with positive feedback. Plenty riders from Oz talk of a 44 tooth rear to be optimal, especially in gravel travel…
That might be a great combination. I really wanted a 45 tooth rear to keep the 1:3 ratio with a 15 tooth front sprocket with a better front diameter. But can't find a 45 rear and this works well. I imagine a 44 rear is very similar. Ride on!
5:06 👍
I have a freewind, which is a dr 650but a bit more street oriented, same engine. I have a warning.. Mine crapped itself at 35000 miles. It was an old bike '99. I really liked this bike, so I bought the same again. I did not want to have happen this again. So i did some investigation. I saw three bikes for sale in parts. I phoned up all three and asked them, why do you sell it in parts? To my suprise all three! said the same thing.. the oilpump stopped working, because the plastic gear that drives the oilpump broke a tooth and so it stopped and ruined the top end. Obviously i changed that sprocket. It was 17 dollars and 2,5 hours of work. I asked an engineer, is this normal, he said; this kind of plastic, nylon, usually dies at 15 or 20 years or with higher milage. Maybe this warning saves a bike or two, cheers.
I've seen that posted a time or two. Mine is a 2021 and I suspect age has more to do with plastic crystallization but I'll look into changing that out. Much appreciated.
@@stevesjourney7000 that is a very young bike, you should be fine, I read somewhere that the drz 400 has the same issue. The bikes that had a tooth broken all had run about 35.000 or 50.000km, but like you I think it is age that does them inn. The XF was only build between 97 and 2002.
Run it on the lose side of the cam then. This wont hurt the bike.
yep i went to a 14 on mine ez er to putt slow
17:41👍
17:58 أين هو؟ إيزي❤
19:30 الحمدلله❤
16:16👍
Just bougt one from 91😅
I hate the snail-cam chain adjusters, because the large gaps between notches means that the chain is nearly always running either too loose or too tight. The only way I have found to obtain optimal chain tension is by inserting little shims cut out from sheet-aluminium into the space between the notches and the pegs, which is all very fiddly. For the snail-cam system to match the precise distance-adjustment of a threaded bolt system, you would need to have a notch-pattern like a fine sawtooth, running against a sharp pointed peg.
That's interesting. I find them to be exactly right. Seems to keep the chain right in a good range for me. It is a bigger jump than can be done with a threaded adjuster but I love them and have gotten over 15k miles out of chains and that was a premature change only because I only get so many times where I have an address to ship to and a place to work. I guess everyone has different experiences.
Always better to run chain too loose rather than too tight, to reduce chances of bearing damage at either end.@@stevesjourney7000
I totally agree on your sprocket assessment. I have a versys x300 and went up one tooth to calm it down a bit and the bike pulls it no problem. However when I did a high speed run my top speed dropped by about 8 or 10 mph because the motor just could no longer hit the max rpm even though it makes the most power at max rpm. It’s better for general riding so I keep it that way. Great episode by the way. As an ex Klr rider I plan to add a DR to my garage. I didn’t know it had screw and nut valve adjuster till I saw this video. I’m sold!
15:06😜
6:20 👍