I have been following you for 16 years+ and have a lot of respect for your photography skills, your processing skills are superb thx for sharing your knowledge it has helped make me a better photographer.
Years ago, I founded a photo group through a local art center. At one of the meetings, I challenged the group to do true black and white, as close as possible. I heard a lot of groans. So, I offered a 16x20 gallery wrap print paid from my own wallet to the winner as judged by me. When I reviewed all of the entrances, one really stunned me. The submission was done by an inexperienced lady who was just learning photography. When I brought the print to present the winner… a collective gasp followed by silence and then standing applause. The moral of this story is to go beyond what you think you can do and stretch your imagination. And that’s how I view your work and your commitment to DO and stretch your abilities.
I watched this video to the end and checked my Ps and LrC settings. Sure enough, they had defaulted to 8 bit just like Joel said they would. Thanks Joel! You saved me a world of headaches.
joel, good stuff, i have shot hdr for more than ten years and like you nearly all that i do is hdr or suedo hdr. yes, hdr has been given a bad wrap until the viewer sees the light, and the light is the bit depth, and the detail in the shadows. great topic, StevePower
Honestly, the best lesson I've learned in the last 10 years. I shoot editorial entertainment, celebs. But, I've had to diversify as competition gets more fierce with less going on due to covid. This lesson is just one more tool to rise above the rest and get amazing results. Thanks so much for this.
Thanks for the presentation Joel! Important information for maximizing the technical quality of digital capture. The sRGB colour space has a "reduced colour gamut" compared to Adobe RGB or ProPhoto RGB, as you mention. Important for all to know: colour information is compressed and lost or thrown away, not only by the bit depth option but also by the colour space selection when generating an image from a Camera RAW file (14bit or true 16bit MF capture ). sRGB is best for digital presentation; monitors, the web etc. Adobe or ProPhoto RGB is best for print purposes. With my 25+ years of pre-press and imaging experience, I've learned a couple things about maximizing images and processing and was fortunate enough to study under Dan Margulis, the ultimate master of colour and imaging quality who I'm sure you're familiar with :)
Thanks for the informative video! Part of this process is to have a computer and monitor that supports 10 bit per channel colour output, and wide colour gamet. Not all monitors are created equal. You need a graphics card that supports 10 bit output over display port. And a monitor that can output nearly 100% or at least 97% Adobe RGB - Eizo, Dell, NEC and Ben Q all have options. No monitor, from the last time I researched can output ProPhoto RGB colour space. A classic example of this as you said is “ pushing” greys or skies too much and producing banding (loosing file information). This can be clearly seen on this type of system. I too agree, forgetting to reset Photoshop working colour space after an update has caught me a few times also.
Started with PS5 a long time ago. Back then I was doing "composite" images layering bracketed exposures and revealing highlight and shadow details with the tablet. I have one of those here somewhere...
Hola Joel. Es Impresionante que después de tanto tiempo como fotógrafo por mera casualidad, encontré tu video y ha sido de las mejores informaciones que he encontrado y muy reveladora. Muchas gracias por compartir tan excelente información y tan útil.
Thank you. I'm not sure quite how to do this practically, but I'll have a go as the results are worth putting the effort in. Thanks again Joel. Much appreciated as always.
Really, really, really well explained. You are an excellent teacher and clearly possess the empathy required to help students understand complex information. As an educator myself, and I don't wish to be patronising, this is so impressive!
The colours are grey level number to the power 3. For example, 256 grey levels to the power 3 which is 256x256x256. A big number! (not 256 x3). Hope that helps....nice 'proof in the pudding' pictures. Excellent examples
Thanks for your video first time at your channel. You mentioned you have video how to process 32 bit from how to take 32 bit photos. would you please share that video \ I don't see where do you have that video.
🤩 Awesome work of yours. The info at 8:00 depends on brand: Nikon + Fuji GFX have massively more information in shadows as in highlights, Sony & Olympus the opposite (a1 not tested yet). Pls take it as a nerd’s comment only. 😄
@@JeraldMYates You're welcome. Depending on what I do, I shoot Nikon (normally) and Olympus (when weight, macro capabilities, flexibility is key). I also had the chance to test the GFX models of Fuji. The GFX has 16 bit RAF raw files (Bayer layer) and is awesome in keeping details in the shadows. Nikon next best. My OM-D EM1 Mk III is the opposite, I can easily overexpose by 1 to 1.7 stops and the detail recovery pushing the highlight slider to the left side is awesome, but I get noisy results trying to recover more than 1.3..1.7 stops underexposed. My Nikons I shoot generally -0.3 to -0.7 at least.
Thank you for your informative videos Joel. Your techniques have got me excited again as I was looking for something new to try, and you did just that. Been a photographer for 60 years now so this is great knowledge you are sharing. Subscribed and looking forward to viewing your collection of videos. Cheers from Australia.
Thanks for this video. Very educational and practical. I just did my first B&W HDR and I’m really happy with the dynamic range but especially with the smooth gradation of greys in the sky.
Very informative video. I like to think about bit depth in terms of sculpting a statue out of marble...or even carving a figure out of a piece of wood. You need a very large chunk of marble (32 bit depth) in order to be able to chip away (process) at it until you are left with your desired final product. If the starting piece (capture file) is too small (8 bit) then after chipping away at it you might end up with a statue that doesn't have a nose.....clipped in a way.
I turned off compressed RAW on my Sony A7r4 because with compression on it only gives you 12bit instead of 14bit. There goes my file space 😂 I didn’t factor that in when buying a 61 megapixel camera, I thought I would just used compressed RAW. I wanted to see how you explains this, you did a good job 👍
Beautifully explained. And as a wedding and portrait photographer, I have enjoyed your work for a while. Double check your spelling at 1:12 in the video.
Excellent video and beautifully images. The way I see it is that the key is exposure. Each time you overexpose each time you make low values come out of the noise. Each time you under expose each time you allow high values to come under saturation. Though having 18 or more stops-dynamic range and compressing it in 8 bits is a pity given our monitors and prints outputs 😕
This is very good? As you explain the bit depth on this video I have been thinking on some of the prints I made and I only have two of them of a cityscape and they where printed after I requested to use my TIFF files at 16bit and not a JPG. Each time I look at the Tiff file prints I notice a richness in colors and a clear definition on the lines of buildings and smoothness of sky and, light and shadows. Definitely your last comment about printing it at a higher bits. I see the difference and it is also noticeable when I look at a Tiff file on the screen vs a JPG file. Very good information and definitely important to pay close attention to these. Thank you.
I’m very interested in getting the highest quality possible. I am no professional but I enjoy my photography. Thanks for the advice here, I was aware of 32bit depth but now I will use it more.
Thank you for the information Joel. I have the same question as some of the other folks here - I do not see the video you mention about processing 32 bit. Would love to see what that workflow looks like and at what point you convert the file for printing (if one doesn't own a printer as you do). Thank you sir!
Joel - Awesome video! I can honestly say that I learned something new about HDR. So question for you - to acheive the same effect as taking 3 pictures with different exposures - could I go back to an old photo and create virtual copies in Lightroom, assign different exposure to those copies, and then process in Photoshop like you describe?
I've not thought about this, I don't know if you can get that extra dynamic range without it being captured in the first place. I'll have to give it a try
There are so many comments here that I did not check whether somebody already pointed this out: with 32 bit you get 4 294 967 295 color values per channel! 16.7 million values/channel is with 24 bit processing. Furthermore I don't remember if you mentioned that posting anything on social media or on the web in general it is usually converted to an 8bit jpg. Still when processed from 16 (14) bit bracketed raw files in Lightroom the final image will look better. Apart from these minor deficiencies I loved your presentation. And your photos are fantastic.
Thats the same thing I've though. Nice but I've watched 23min and still don't know how to do it lol -_- A link to that other video would be appreciated.
Great video, I only use Capture One Pro for all my editing, not even Photoshop, so I will have to try and figure out how this bit information fits in there.
Great video, great examples and advice for photographers that are going to print. I do think that the numbers are off though. An 8 bit file has 256 possible values per pixel, per channel. Not 4 values. That would be 2 Bit. If it had 4 values it would look something like an original gameboy, black, white and 2 shades of grey. An 8 bit file has 16,777,216 colours to choose from.
Hi Joel. My first visit to your channel, what a great find! While I do know the math of bit depth and have worked with HDR as the situation warrants, I had not considered the benefits of shooting bracketed photos to increase overall editable data depth. Very valuable ip, thank you for sharing. Like and a sub for you today.
well spotted. And as you have 3 channels it is not times 3 as stated it is to the power of 3. With 32bit in 3 channels it therefore leads to incredible 4.722.366.482.869.645.213.696 colour values or 4,72e21 possible colours in total.
I think I'd locally adjust the exposure on those trees and sky in the right top corner of the Tahoe pic. The shadow lift you did is a bit apparent. Though no one but photographers would notice.
@John Waine hi friends, I found this video and it's show how to do what Joel explain. I tried with Joel's RAW files and did work! ruclips.net/video/YC1nHjWtMZg/видео.html
Thanks this was good. For whatever reason, photoshop for me defaults to open up in 8 bit and for ages I did not even notice, even in great big pictures . Now I know.
Joel, excellent tutorial. I have one question for you. In working /adjusting in the 32 bit environment within LR, Is the final saved image as 16 bit or 32 bit ? My reason for asking is this, I make large prints on an Epson SC P-8000 44" printer, similar to your own Canon ipf4000. These printers can work with 16 bit files but not 32 bit. As such I believe once you send a file to the printer the very best output you ll get is 16 bit. Are you then diminishing any of the 32 bit quality you worked in on the software? I was hoping you might explain this out for me. Thanks! -Paul.
Hi Joel ! Love the info about the bit depth. I have a question though, at the end you recommend to check if PS is correctly set as 16 bit after updated, also, to choose Adobe RGB or profoto RGB instead of srgb color profile, but what if the monitor I use it isn’t suitable for 100% Adobe or profoto RGB ? should I still select those ?
Thanks Wesley, Keep in mind, it's not some much the viewing experience that we are effecting, but the ability to increase our detail in the highlights and Shadows. Also, the more bit depth you have the more you can dramatically manipulate the image in Bridge, Lightroom or Photoshop especially in Black and White.
Where was your vid that showed how you used a grey backdrop with blend modes to change background. I mean I already know a little about using overlay with grey, but I think you can even use blend ifs to refine. I just wanted to rewatch that segment of yours to refresh memory on your method.
Ah sorry Joel. What I actually meant to ask was which metering mode do you use in your Canon: evaluative, partial, or do you spot meter with a handheld? I'd also be interested to know how you sharpen.
This is the most nerdy video I have ever seen. Not one person will ever see the differences. I watched every single minute and loved it (-:(-; (im a nerd as well)
The difference is easy to see, but difficult to articulate. These subtleties are the reason his artwork hangs on the walls they do, while mine just hangs on my mom's facebook page.
To sum it up. What he is saying is when you use a higher bit depth, you are working and displaying more Shades, colors, tones. So when you see a color chart showing Red to orange, there is now millions of tones of red to orange instead of just dozens or hundreds like you would see at your local paint shop. It is the same with the Black to white. Millions of shades of gray in between instead of hundreds.
Well, being I developed software for 45 years, I damn well better understand what bit-depth means. The higher the bit-depth, the more colors/detail you can represent. Done.
At 76 I am learning digital photography and discovered bit depth today.
Many thanks for your video and for your ten steps e-book!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
I have been following you for 16 years+ and have a lot of respect for your photography skills, your processing skills are superb thx for sharing your knowledge it has helped make me a better photographer.
@S Tra Haha that's side splitting stuff. and a very predictable answer well done.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
I "knew" about bit depth and dynamic range.. but your examples showing with and without high bit depth... THAT was an eye opener to me!! thank you!!
Years ago, I founded a photo group through a local art center. At one of the meetings, I challenged the group to do true black and white, as close as possible. I heard a lot of groans. So, I offered a 16x20 gallery wrap print paid from my own wallet to the winner as judged by me. When I reviewed all of the entrances, one really stunned me. The submission was done by an inexperienced lady who was just learning photography. When I brought the print to present the winner… a collective gasp followed by silence and then standing applause. The moral of this story is to go beyond what you think you can do and stretch your imagination. And that’s how I view your work and your commitment to DO and stretch your abilities.
I watched this video to the end and checked my Ps and LrC settings. Sure enough, they had defaulted to 8 bit just like Joel said they would. Thanks Joel! You saved me a world of headaches.
you are so welcome Jeff!
I had to chuckle at your 5th wheel analogy. I lived in a 5th wheel for a year and a half and now a motorhome. More power is never a bad thing!!
joel, good stuff, i have shot hdr for more than ten years and like you nearly all that i do is hdr or suedo hdr. yes, hdr has been given a bad wrap until the viewer sees the light, and the light is the bit depth, and the detail in the shadows. great topic, StevePower
I just discovered the most amazing, underrated channel on RUclips!!!
This man here has been the greatest influence on my art and workflow. I owe so much to him.
Even more amazing is that he is color blind.
Same herre!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Honestly, the best lesson I've learned in the last 10 years. I shoot editorial entertainment, celebs. But, I've had to diversify as competition gets more fierce with less going on due to covid. This lesson is just one more tool to rise above the rest and get amazing results. Thanks so much for this.
Thanks so much for that, glad to be helpful!
Thanks for the presentation Joel! Important information for maximizing the technical quality of digital capture.
The sRGB colour space has a "reduced colour gamut" compared to Adobe RGB or ProPhoto RGB, as you mention. Important for all to know: colour information is compressed and lost or thrown away, not only by the bit depth option but also by the colour space selection when generating an image from a Camera RAW file (14bit or true 16bit MF capture ). sRGB is best for digital presentation; monitors, the web etc. Adobe or ProPhoto RGB is best for print purposes. With my 25+ years of pre-press and imaging experience, I've learned a couple things about maximizing images and processing and was fortunate enough to study under Dan Margulis, the ultimate master of colour and imaging quality who I'm sure you're familiar with :)
tks to explanation shared! I had thinking about if sRGB or Adobe RGB is the best colour space to use when I was watching another tutorial about it.
This unlocked something in my brain for me. Thanks Joel! Another master to watch and learn from
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks Joel, being an old editorial news photographer and after 30 years shooting jpegs now I finally get it. Well done!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Many thanks, for this! What a difference, the higher/highest bit depth makes!
Thanks for the informative video! Part of this process is to have a computer and monitor that supports 10 bit per channel colour output, and wide colour gamet. Not all monitors are created equal. You need a graphics card that supports 10 bit output over display port. And a monitor that can output nearly 100% or at least 97% Adobe RGB - Eizo, Dell, NEC and Ben Q all have options. No monitor, from the last time I researched can output ProPhoto RGB colour space. A classic example of this as you said is “ pushing” greys or skies too much and producing banding (loosing file information). This can be clearly seen on this type of system. I too agree, forgetting to reset Photoshop working colour space after an update has caught me a few times also.
To make a long story short, Vital, vital, vital !
You are my man. Thankyou for this, Joel !
🤯👍
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Fantastic, and very important video. Thanks Joel!
Started with PS5 a long time ago. Back then I was doing "composite" images layering bracketed exposures and revealing highlight and shadow details with the tablet. I have one of those here somewhere...
Hola Joel. Es Impresionante que después de tanto tiempo como fotógrafo por mera casualidad, encontré tu video y ha sido de las mejores informaciones que he encontrado y muy reveladora. Muchas gracias por compartir tan excelente información y tan útil.
Thank you, I am excited to try this with my many raw files that I shot in my 5Div HDR will be even better than before. Subscribed
Thank you. I'm not sure quite how to do this practically, but I'll have a go as the results are worth putting the effort in. Thanks again Joel. Much appreciated as always.
Joel, Maybe I missed it but I cannot find you video on processing 32 bit images. Can you post a link? Great video.
Same here. Would love to see it!
I been trying to explain this to folks forever. Thank you for making a video! So fatigued by junk megapixel marketing these days.
Glad it was helpful!
Really, really, really well explained. You are an excellent teacher and clearly possess the empathy required to help students understand complex information. As an educator myself, and I don't wish to be patronising, this is so impressive!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Great info Joel,
Have all your courses, love your teaching style, inspiration and enthusiasm -especially as we are the same young vintage 😉😉📸
wow, thank you so much!
Gorgeous photographs! Plus great tips - thanks a lot JG! Roger
Thanks Roger. Very much appreciated
Amazing information. Thank you for sharing the bit depth concept. Cheers !! 😊
You're very welcome!
The colours are grey level number to the power 3. For example, 256 grey levels to the power 3 which is 256x256x256. A big number! (not 256 x3). Hope that helps....nice 'proof in the pudding' pictures. Excellent examples
Yes! Awesome explanation on bit depth. Thank you for your time and expertise.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Bit depth is the number of samples that represent the tone and/or colour stored in any pixel!
Thanks for your video first time at your channel. You mentioned you have video how to process 32 bit from how to take 32 bit photos. would you please share that video \ I don't see where do you have that video.
🤩 Awesome work of yours. The info at 8:00 depends on brand: Nikon + Fuji GFX have massively more information in shadows as in highlights, Sony & Olympus the opposite (a1 not tested yet). Pls take it as a nerd’s comment only. 😄
Thank-you kindly, Mister !
@@JeraldMYates You're welcome. Depending on what I do, I shoot Nikon (normally) and Olympus (when weight, macro capabilities, flexibility is key). I also had the chance to test the GFX models of Fuji. The GFX has 16 bit RAF raw files (Bayer layer) and is awesome in keeping details in the shadows. Nikon next best. My OM-D EM1 Mk III is the opposite, I can easily overexpose by 1 to 1.7 stops and the detail recovery pushing the highlight slider to the left side is awesome, but I get noisy results trying to recover more than 1.3..1.7 stops underexposed. My Nikons I shoot generally -0.3 to -0.7 at least.
I've always admired your work since finding you on Creativelive. You come across a very down to Earth type of teacher, thank you.
Thank you Jason. That means a lot!
Thank you for your informative videos Joel. Your techniques have got me excited again as I was looking for something new to try, and you did just that. Been a photographer for 60 years now so this is great knowledge you are sharing. Subscribed and looking forward to viewing your collection of videos. Cheers from Australia.
Thanks Barry!
Congratulations to all. Amazing images.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Incredibly informative. Didn't realise about bit depth, or 16bit processing. Plus ISO bracketing is a great tip. Cheers Joel 👏
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Extremely useful, clear and succinct information. Thanks so much.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Thanks for this video. Very educational and practical. I just did my first B&W HDR and I’m really happy with the dynamic range but especially with the smooth gradation of greys in the sky.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Very informative video. I like to think about bit depth in terms of sculpting a statue out of marble...or even carving a figure out of a piece of wood. You need a very large chunk of marble (32 bit depth) in order to be able to chip away (process) at it until you are left with your desired final product. If the starting piece (capture file) is too small (8 bit) then after chipping away at it you might end up with a statue that doesn't have a nose.....clipped in a way.
Thank you for sharing this... It excellent video... lots of learning... and this is called experience makes perfect...
Joel - your work is very, very good. Also your images have that "spice" mixture right to my taste. I love them!
I turned off compressed RAW on my Sony A7r4 because with compression on it only gives you 12bit instead of 14bit. There goes my file space 😂 I didn’t factor that in when buying a 61 megapixel camera, I thought I would just used compressed RAW. I wanted to see how you explains this, you did a good job 👍
Thank you. I had no idea about bit depth.
@@Auroralover9797 you are welcome 😊
Beautifully explained. And as a wedding and portrait photographer, I have enjoyed your work for a while. Double check your spelling at 1:12 in the video.
Thank you! Will do!
So refreshing! Thank you.
You are so welcome!
Excellent video and beautifully images.
The way I see it is that the key is exposure. Each time you overexpose each time you make low values come out of the noise. Each time you under expose each time you allow high values to come under saturation. Though having 18 or more stops-dynamic range and compressing it in 8 bits is a pity given our monitors and prints outputs 😕
This is very good? As you explain the bit depth on this video I have been thinking on some of the prints I made and I only have two of them of a cityscape and they where printed after I requested to use my TIFF files at 16bit and not a JPG. Each time I look at the Tiff file prints I notice a richness in colors and a clear definition on the lines of buildings and smoothness of sky and, light and shadows. Definitely your last comment about printing it at a higher bits. I see the difference and it is also noticeable when I look at a Tiff file on the screen vs a JPG file. Very good information and definitely important to pay close attention to these. Thank you.
thanks for watching Luigi!
GREAT TUTORIAL! I never knew about bit depth, etc. Thanks!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
I’m very interested in getting the highest quality possible. I am no professional but I enjoy my photography. Thanks for the advice here, I was aware of 32bit depth but now I will use it more.
Thank you for the information Joel. I have the same question as some of the other folks here - I do not see the video you mention about processing 32 bit. Would love to see what that workflow looks like and at what point you convert the file for printing (if one doesn't own a printer as you do). Thank you sir!
Hello Gary! This might the one you´re looking for: ruclips.net/video/z4HYksU_7Tg/видео.html
@@BjarteKFrnsdal thanks very much!
Joel - Awesome video! I can honestly say that I learned something new about HDR. So question for you - to acheive the same effect as taking 3 pictures with different exposures - could I go back to an old photo and create virtual copies in Lightroom, assign different exposure to those copies, and then process in Photoshop like you describe?
I've not thought about this, I don't know if you can get that extra dynamic range without it being captured in the first place. I'll have to give it a try
Love your teachings and how you share your expertise. This subject is powerful. 💖🙏🌟
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
I had no idea, thank you so much!
There are so many comments here that I did not check whether somebody already pointed this out: with 32 bit you get 4 294 967 295 color values per channel! 16.7 million values/channel is with 24 bit processing. Furthermore I don't remember if you mentioned that posting anything on social media or on the web in general it is usually converted to an 8bit jpg. Still when processed from 16 (14) bit bracketed raw files in Lightroom the final image will look better.
Apart from these minor deficiencies I loved your presentation. And your photos are fantastic.
Thanks Andreas
Perfect, the best instruction. Grateful!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Helpful. But I don't see the video he mentions showing how he edits in 32bit.
Try watching any of Joel's video "Start To Finish". You will see how he converts the captures to 32bit file.
@@BrunoKongawoin055 - Hi Bruno - can you post a link to a specific video?
Thats the same thing I've though. Nice but I've watched 23min and still don't know how to do it lol -_- A link to that other video would be appreciated.
Informative video - thankyou very much. And thanks for the free source files which are very, very helpful. Subscribed.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
ThankU very much for this incredibly informative video!
Great video! Downloaded the raws to test for myself (alot of sensordust on them in the sky though). Really makes a difference.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Excellent explanation of bit-depth.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Great video, I only use Capture One Pro for all my editing, not even Photoshop, so I will have to try and figure out how this bit information fits in there.
You can do it!
Thank you, thank you! Who knew that during an upgrade in PS it reset to the default workflow setting in the Camera Raw workflow! Yikes!!
Great information in this video, thank you Joel.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nicely done Sir. Love it, Who knew. Thank you
Definitely going to spend a lot of time learning from you, Joel. Thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Thanks for the eye opener.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Great video, great examples and advice for photographers that are going to print.
I do think that the numbers are off though. An 8 bit file has 256 possible values per pixel, per channel. Not 4 values. That would be 2 Bit. If it had 4 values it would look something like an original gameboy, black, white and 2 shades of grey.
An 8 bit file has 16,777,216 colours to choose from.
Very educational. Thank you. Going to try it straight away
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Greetings from Guanajuato!!
Hi Joel. My first visit to your channel, what a great find! While I do know the math of bit depth and have worked with HDR as the situation warrants, I had not considered the benefits of shooting bracketed photos to increase overall editable data depth. Very valuable ip, thank you for sharing. Like and a sub for you today.
First to your channel. Thank you so much for the bit depth information.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video.
Could you explain (maybe in another video) how you expose for shadows?
Great points here. One minor detail, though. 32 bits yield over 4 Billion values per channel, far more than "just" 16 million.
well spotted. And as you have 3 channels it is not times 3 as stated it is to the power of 3. With 32bit in 3 channels it therefore leads to incredible 4.722.366.482.869.645.213.696 colour values or 4,72e21 possible colours in total.
Yeah,that whole 16 million thing is for 24 bit.
And here are a bunch of examples of how RUclips compresses the life out of any quality image to the point of horrendous color banding...
Great stuff Joel, Thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Living Legend to the Photography World.
living legend as a teacher, if he was a commercial shooter he'd be too busy to teach.
Thank you!
I manage to do both! 🤓
Great information! Thank you!
You're so welcome!
I think I'd locally adjust the exposure on those trees and sky in the right top corner of the Tahoe pic. The shadow lift you did is a bit apparent. Though no one but photographers would notice.
thanks for the feedback!
You always get me hyped up to shoot
Many thanks for this video and the files. Great explanation.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
I searched your videos for the full details on processing photos in photoshop but could not find anything. Have any links for us please?
Same here!
@John Waine hi friends, I found this video and it's show how to do what Joel explain. I tried with Joel's RAW files and did work! ruclips.net/video/YC1nHjWtMZg/видео.html
Thank you. Very informative.
Thank you very much for all the important info. Where can I find your HDR 32 bit process video?
So instructive! Thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Thanks this was good. For whatever reason, photoshop for me defaults to open up in 8 bit and for ages I did not even notice, even in great big pictures . Now I know.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Joel, excellent tutorial. I have one question for you. In working /adjusting in the 32 bit environment within LR, Is the final saved image as 16 bit or 32 bit ? My reason for asking is this, I make large prints on an Epson SC P-8000 44" printer, similar to your own Canon ipf4000. These printers can work with 16 bit files but not 32 bit. As such I believe once you send a file to the printer the very best output you ll get is 16 bit. Are you then diminishing any of the 32 bit quality you worked in on the software? I was hoping you might explain this out for me. Thanks! -Paul.
Hi Joel ! Love the info about the bit depth. I have a question though, at the end you recommend to check if PS is correctly set as 16 bit after updated, also, to choose Adobe RGB or profoto RGB instead of srgb color profile, but what if the monitor I use it isn’t suitable for 100% Adobe or profoto RGB ? should I still select those ?
Thanks Wesley, Keep in mind, it's not some much the viewing experience that we are effecting, but the ability to increase our detail in the highlights and Shadows. Also, the more bit depth you have the more you can dramatically manipulate the image in Bridge, Lightroom or Photoshop especially in Black and White.
Where was your vid that showed how you used a grey backdrop with blend modes to change background.
I mean I already know a little about using overlay with grey, but I think you can even use blend ifs to refine.
I just wanted to rewatch that segment of yours to refresh memory on your method.
Ah sorry Joel. What I actually meant to ask was which metering mode do you use in your Canon: evaluative, partial, or do you spot meter with a handheld? I'd also be interested to know how you sharpen.
Super helpfull! Thank you! Now to your other videos! I’ve got all weekend! :-)
32 bit is amazing - great work
Thanks for listening
This is the most nerdy video I have ever seen. Not one person will ever see the differences. I watched every single minute and loved it (-:(-; (im a nerd as well)
The difference is easy to see, but difficult to articulate. These subtleties are the reason his artwork hangs on the walls they do, while mine just hangs on my mom's facebook page.
Thank you Joel for this very useful information, great foto's.
Glad you enjoyed it
To sum it up. What he is saying is when you use a higher bit depth, you are working and displaying more Shades, colors, tones. So when you see a color chart showing Red to orange, there is now millions of tones of red to orange instead of just dozens or hundreds like you would see at your local paint shop. It is the same with the Black to white. Millions of shades of gray in between instead of hundreds.
York work is amazing, Great video!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Great stuff dude, you are totally correct
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Excellent video, thanks!
Well, being I developed software for 45 years, I damn well better understand what bit-depth means. The higher the bit-depth, the more colors/detail you can represent. Done.
Thanks so much for this video! It explains a lot and is very helpful.
You're very welcome!
More and more cameras are able to shoot 10bit HEIF files nowadays. I've never worked with them though, so can't say how they keep up
Thank you! Great video!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching