Another approach-You can stagger the cut wires so the terminal wire connectors are not next to each other which creates a bulge. This way they follow one another like railroad train cars, creating a thinner, but longer connection which may require only one shrink tube. -Just an option.
Sort of an unrelated question but it does pertain to dew straps. The size of most of my dew straps never exactly fit the diameter of whatever I am attaching them to. Either they are to short or too long. Is it better to wrap a longer one around so it wraps on top of itself which always seems a little messy or use a slighty short dew strap. A shorter strap of course leaves a gap that isn't getting directly heated by the strap. A really newbie question but I have never seen it discussed anywhere. Thanks for your suggestion. Really like the idea of shorting some of my dew strap power cables that are always way to long.
Longer is better than shorter. If you are short then there will be a section that is not heated which could result in some dew in that area. The dew straps aren’t on constantly anyway, they kick on and off on a cycle based on how high you’ve turned the dial up. If you turn the dial up higher they’ll turn on and off more frequently than if the dial is set lower. But going back to your question, make sure you have full coverage even if it means going longer.
Based on all of the systems I have seen, it shouldn't matter. The strap itself is just a wire of a specific length and gauge that provides some amount of resistance as it provides heat. The direction of the flow of the current in the strap should not matter. In the video I like to keep it consistent to how it is already wired because I have lots of people with zero experience in electronics watching and it is better to teach them to think that way in general, than not. :)
@@TheHelicapt Makes sense. Let me know how it turns out. I'd say just use an adapter but I have a feeling the wire gauge would be pretty thin in the adapter.
I was interested up to the point you edited just before the 2nd crimp, ...that's the EXACT PART where we need to see you pushing the copper into the butt....hummm
I agree. I specifically avoided solder to keep it simple and comfortable for the majority of people unfamiliar with soldering. I don't like to cut corners, but this was functional and more accessible to more people.
@@PatriotAstro If trying to limit soldering but making it simple, try solder splices. Infinitely better than butt crimps, requires no soldering skills, just a heat gun or hair dryer. Solder and heat shrink all in one easy step.
Another approach-You can stagger the cut wires so the terminal wire connectors are not next to each other which creates a bulge. This way they follow one another like railroad train cars, creating a thinner, but longer connection which may require only one shrink tube. -Just an option.
It’s shocking even DewNot made in the U.S.A is using super cheap audio signal cable for their power application…
I know. It’s crazy.
Sort of an unrelated question but it does pertain to dew straps. The size of most of my dew straps never exactly fit the diameter of whatever I am attaching them to. Either they are to short or too long. Is it better to wrap a longer one around so it wraps on top of itself which always seems a little messy or use a slighty short dew strap. A shorter strap of course leaves a gap that isn't getting directly heated by the strap. A really newbie question but I have never seen it discussed anywhere. Thanks for your suggestion. Really like the idea of shorting some of my dew strap power cables that are always way to long.
Longer is better than shorter. If you are short then there will be a section that is not heated which could result in some dew in that area. The dew straps aren’t on constantly anyway, they kick on and off on a cycle based on how high you’ve turned the dial up. If you turn the dial up higher they’ll turn on and off more frequently than if the dial is set lower. But going back to your question, make sure you have full coverage even if it means going longer.
Do you know if red is definitely positive for this heaters ? I want to connect a barrel connector instead of the rca
Based on all of the systems I have seen, it shouldn't matter. The strap itself is just a wire of a specific length and gauge that provides some amount of resistance as it provides heat. The direction of the flow of the current in the strap should not matter. In the video I like to keep it consistent to how it is already wired because I have lots of people with zero experience in electronics watching and it is better to teach them to think that way in general, than not. :)
@@PatriotAstro
Agreed. In my case I want to remove the RCA and use a 2.1 5.5 mm barrel connector that would go straight into the asiair
@@TheHelicapt Makes sense. Let me know how it turns out. I'd say just use an adapter but I have a feeling the wire gauge would be pretty thin in the adapter.
@@PatriotAstro
I really want to eliminate extra bulk wiring and keep it simple and the adapter would add too much length
@@TheHelicapt agreed. Lot's of reasons to not use an off the shelf convertor.
I was interested up to the point you edited just before the 2nd crimp, ...that's the EXACT PART where we need to see you pushing the copper into the butt....hummm
Sorry! Let me know if I can help!
Solder would have been much better in this application. Looks sloppy with crimp connectors, they do an awful job.
I agree. I specifically avoided solder to keep it simple and comfortable for the majority of people unfamiliar with soldering. I don't like to cut corners, but this was functional and more accessible to more people.
@@PatriotAstro If trying to limit soldering but making it simple, try solder splices. Infinitely better than butt crimps, requires no soldering skills, just a heat gun or hair dryer. Solder and heat shrink all in one easy step.
@@digitaltree515 Yep ,great option for sure! So many ways to avoid soldering! :) Thanks!
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