Just finished doing this....replaced all 4 door speakers with these same speakers. FYI...the OP has a 2016 refresh and there is 1 difference between his and the pre-refresh cars.....you're going to have to trim the inside of ALL 4 door panels. I struggled with the 1st door for over 2 hours before I realized my 2014 wasn't like his 2016. On the front 2 doors the inner plastic circle (there's 2 of them on each front door) must be trimmed back to almost flush all the way around to get the door card back on. The 2 back doors must be trimmed as he explains in his other video for the rear installation. He said 1/4 inch all the way around that plastic circle must be trimmed.....that wasn't enough on my 2014. I had to cut about an inch off all the way around. Sound is MUCH cleaner for sure. Well worth the $200 I paid for all 4 speakers. Please note...if your expecting more volume don't. Your not going to get more volume without adding power, ie. An additional amplifier. But if your after cleaner sound this is going to get you there!
For future DIY'ers: In my 2015 I did not have to do any trimming on the door panel side; they popped right back on no problem. Do make sure to trim the speaker mount as there were 3 tabs on the top that needed to come off in order for the speaker to fit snugly into the mount
You can skip the dremel and just use a large pair of snips to trim off all of the necessary bits of the housings. The plastic is disturbingly brittle and is easily trimmed. Thanks for the video!
So I’ve confirmed that the door panel will not go back on flush after the speaker upgrade on older models before the 2016 refresh. I have a 2013 and l needed to remove the plastic ring that goes around the speaker in the door panel. I was able to cut it out with some tin snips. The speakers sound great in the front. I did plug one into the rear and it didn’t sound good so l won’t upgrade the rear speakers. Thanks for the awesome video and speaker recommendation. It was very helpful.
I put some Kenwoods that I got from Bestbuy for the front and back door speakers, only thing I did different was, I used my dremmel to put cuts around the lip of where the old speaker sat in and then used a plier to break each section of the tabs off, made a flat surface for the speaker to be flush, still had to solder the wires on, old speakers were blown out when I got the car, so this was helpful
I told people on tmc that the method was easy and alot cheaper to do than buying the light harmonic set. I had the lh speakers in my two front doors on my last ms. There was a noticeable improvement but I didn’t think it warranted the price for what the Tesla system does. This time I’m gonna go with the kappas and see what I think.
Dear Andrew, thank You so much for the great inspiration to make the right move and change the speakers, i love the sound of the Kappa speakers. Be healthy!
I've got a blown speaker in the front drivers door of my 2014 model S (base stereo) and the rear door speaker on the same side is just dead. Replacing all 4 door speakers today. Found this video a couple of weeks ago and ordered these same speakers. 1st time soldering anything......wish me luck! Lol
@kylerkleindienst3567 ....it wasn't too bad honestly! I had never used a soldering iron before and that was the most difficult part for me. The surgery on the baffles that holds the speakers caused some cursing too. The 1st front door was trial and error and I needed to trim a little more then the video showed. It took 3 attempts of trim, fit speaker, refit door panel to notice it needed to be trimmed further. But it sounds MUCH better and went about 2 hours over the time I had alloted for it. Worth the effort for sure!
@@ferrynpalmer3875 I will be giving it a shot next week! How did you find out the negative and positive side of the wires? Thank you for the response and help!
@kylerkleindienst3567 ....I tested it with an old junky speaker I had before soldering it up. Once you get one of them, you'll know easily moving forward.
Nice I’m doing this. A friend is 3D printing some housings so I shouldn’t need to tear up the Tesla ones, but good to know that’s a pretty simple option.
Thank you Andre for the how to. I followed it and my install was done in an hr. Sounds great, just a lil less bass than stock but the mids and highs are far better. Thanks again.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make this video!! Super helpful. I'm based in the UK and want to attempt a similar upgrade on my Model S. I just had a couple of questions: 1) The Kappa 62IX is now discontinued. What model would be a suitable replacement (or would any 160mm coaxial component speaker do the job?) 2) Some people have suggested that you need crossovers or some kind of sound processor to get maximum / most efficient performance. Is this correct? 3) Would you recommend replacing all 4 speakers and is it the same for front and rear. Thanks in advance for any advice / responses.
Looks like the speakers are still available on amazon, I would suggest replacing all 4 speakers in the doors for better sound and bass, I would also recommend adding acoustic insulation in the doors. The rear door plastic mounts need to be cut to fit the speakers.
No I left them, tweeters are directional so you need them everywhere. Adjust the eq and you're good to go, frequency response is very flat with is what u want.
What are the stock door speakers ? Were they midrange or midbass or coaxial? Am I correct in saying you replaced midrange with coax ? Any compromise on low end ?
Hi could you let me know what speaker cables did you use? I used interconnected (from an RCA pair I had) but I get no sound no matter how I switch + to - back and forth… the “sound” is extremely muted and absolutely no sound from the tweeters, the bass driver moving but essentially no music I can hear from the speaker… 😢
You will need to solder 18 awg 2 conductor cable to the connector on the backbox. See the video at 12:40. Make sure positive and negative are the correct way.
Hi Andre. I just bought the speakers you installed and was told by an installer that these shouldn't be used because the tweeter won't work and that I should get coax instead. Do you have any issues with the sound on these and is the tweeter not being utilized? Thanks for the awesome video!
I tried these same speakers and instructions on my 2013 model s but the speakers were too big. I don’t know how they worked on your car because for me they protruded too far out to fit.
That is very strange because I have read that they haven't changed the enclosures 2012-2020 in the Model S - mine is a 2016 - speaker model is identical? Did you shave the inside enclosure ring?
Hey this video is great! Couple questions- could you list the things you had to purchase in addition to the speakers? (Wire type, soldering iron, screws to mount, etc.) I just ordered the speakers and they are here next week!
Glad you liked it, the screws come with the speakers, here's the list, • Speakers: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07T2F77FZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 • T25 - Torque Screw Driver for Door Speaker Enclosure • T30 - Torque Screw Driver for Door Panel • 10 mm - Socket for Door Panel • Door Clip Dismantle Kit: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00SB7QAZ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 • 18 AWG 2 Conductor Copper Speaker Wire • Weller Soldering Iron, Solder • Cordless Drill, Drill Bit • Tin Snips • Dremel Tool
@@andrerink6888 just did them yesterday and it turned out great and sounds great. FYI if you didn't know, you can actually twist the tweeters in the speakers to point the way you want. I thought I messed up on the first one when it was pointing downwards but then bam, just rotated it upwards.
My model didn't come with the high performance package - I have compared the high performance with these speakers and they are comparable, I would only replace the speakers with the base system.
Does it fit a tesla model s 2014 with base audio system and stock amplifier? And is the bass better when upgrading to this kappa set? And also one more question is it possible to use sliders of the EQ on the screen after installing this?
@@andrerink6888 Thanks. one more question how can i know which is the positive and the negative for the connections? because i just received the speakers and want to connect them. i dont have a measurement tool.
The speaker enclosure in the rear doors is the same size as the front from what I have read. I didn't install them in the rear doors because people who have done this didn't hear much sound improvement and said that your money and time would be wasted doing this.
Just installed these. Listed, from amazon www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZHJ683?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title I may not need a sub. I'm going to do the rear for additional bass since they are only $126 the highs are still coming from the top of the dash, not too propionate from the speakers.
Those car compatibility guides do not take into account that you are dismantling the factory speaker in the oem mount so they incorrectly indicate that they won’t work.
OK so I think when we test systems , we should play music we probably dont listen to, how can you judge lows with all those electric guitars …maybe use the music you like for the mids and highs , then use some hip hop to truly test the low end..because a rock based kick drum IS NOT a valid low end testing sound
@@andrerink6888 Spectrum analyzer isnt going to take the place of a real world Bass test with Music. Not trying to crap on your video as a whole just saying , I would have played Music with different frequency content. Rock, Hip Hop, Jazz, Metal , etc
Just finished doing this....replaced all 4 door speakers with these same speakers.
FYI...the OP has a 2016 refresh and there is 1 difference between his and the pre-refresh cars.....you're going to have to trim the inside of ALL 4 door panels. I struggled with the 1st door for over 2 hours before I realized my 2014 wasn't like his 2016. On the front 2 doors the inner plastic circle (there's 2 of them on each front door) must be trimmed back to almost flush all the way around to get the door card back on. The 2 back doors must be trimmed as he explains in his other video for the rear installation. He said 1/4 inch all the way around that plastic circle must be trimmed.....that wasn't enough on my 2014. I had to cut about an inch off all the way around. Sound is MUCH cleaner for sure. Well worth the $200 I paid for all 4 speakers. Please note...if your expecting more volume don't. Your not going to get more volume without adding power, ie. An additional amplifier. But if your after cleaner sound this is going to get you there!
For future DIY'ers: In my 2015 I did not have to do any trimming on the door panel side; they popped right back on no problem. Do make sure to trim the speaker mount as there were 3 tabs on the top that needed to come off in order for the speaker to fit snugly into the mount
You can skip the dremel and just use a large pair of snips to trim off all of the necessary bits of the housings. The plastic is disturbingly brittle and is easily trimmed. Thanks for the video!
So I’ve confirmed that the door panel will not go back on flush after the speaker upgrade on older models before the 2016 refresh. I have a 2013 and l needed to remove the plastic ring that goes around the speaker in the door panel. I was able to cut it out with some tin snips.
The speakers sound great in the front. I did plug one into the rear and it didn’t sound good so l won’t upgrade the rear speakers.
Thanks for the awesome video and speaker recommendation. It was very helpful.
I put some Kenwoods that I got from Bestbuy for the front and back door speakers, only thing I did different was, I used my dremmel to put cuts around the lip of where the old speaker sat in and then used a plier to break each section of the tabs off, made a flat surface for the speaker to be flush, still had to solder the wires on, old speakers were blown out when I got the car, so this was helpful
Thank you. Just finished my install today based on your video! Was easy to do.
Such a good video. Those new speakers sound better recorded on your phone than my stock speakers sound in person.
I told people on tmc that the method was easy and alot cheaper to do than buying the light harmonic set. I had the lh speakers in my two front doors on my last ms. There was a noticeable improvement but I didn’t think it warranted the price for what the Tesla system does. This time I’m gonna go with the kappas and see what I think.
Dear Andrew, thank You so much for the great inspiration to make the right move and change the speakers, i love the sound of the Kappa speakers. Be healthy!
I've got a blown speaker in the front drivers door of my 2014 model S (base stereo) and the rear door speaker on the same side is just dead. Replacing all 4 door speakers today. Found this video a couple of weeks ago and ordered these same speakers. 1st time soldering anything......wish me luck! Lol
How did you do?
@kylerkleindienst3567 ....it wasn't too bad honestly!
I had never used a soldering iron before and that was the most difficult part for me. The surgery on the baffles that holds the speakers caused some cursing too. The 1st front door was trial and error and I needed to trim a little more then the video showed. It took 3 attempts of trim, fit speaker, refit door panel to notice it needed to be trimmed further. But it sounds MUCH better and went about 2 hours over the time I had alloted for it. Worth the effort for sure!
@@ferrynpalmer3875 I will be giving it a shot next week! How did you find out the negative and positive side of the wires?
Thank you for the response and help!
@kylerkleindienst3567 ....I tested it with an old junky speaker I had before soldering it up. Once you get one of them, you'll know easily moving forward.
@@ferrynpalmer3875 appreciate you!
Nice I’m doing this. A friend is 3D printing some housings so I shouldn’t need to tear up the Tesla ones, but good to know that’s a pretty simple option.
Where did he find the file for the Dimensions?
@@charliemelendez1933 I thought I added this - www.thingiverse.com/thing:2956878 (Perhaps its been removed by RUclips?)
Cutting the Tesla houses is stupid easy - maybe too easy. Just get a pair of large snips and have at it. The plastic is surprisingly brittle.
Thank you Andre for the how to. I followed it and my install was done in an hr. Sounds great, just a lil less bass than stock but the mids and highs are far better. Thanks again.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make this video!! Super helpful. I'm based in the UK and want to attempt a similar upgrade on my Model S.
I just had a couple of questions:
1) The Kappa 62IX is now discontinued. What model would be a suitable replacement (or would any 160mm coaxial component speaker do the job?)
2) Some people have suggested that you need crossovers or some kind of sound processor to get maximum / most efficient performance. Is this correct?
3) Would you recommend replacing all 4 speakers and is it the same for front and rear.
Thanks in advance for any advice / responses.
Looks like the speakers are still available on amazon, I would suggest replacing all 4 speakers in the doors for better sound and bass, I would also recommend adding acoustic insulation in the doors. The rear door plastic mounts need to be cut to fit the speakers.
Did you install it on the Tesla premium/fidelity system or the base sound system?
Thank you
I installed it with the base sound system
Great video! Did you also unplug the factory installed tweeters?
No I left them, tweeters are directional so you need them everywhere. Adjust the eq and you're good to go, frequency response is very flat with is what u want.
What are the stock door speakers ? Were they midrange or midbass or coaxial?
Am I correct in saying you replaced midrange with coax ? Any compromise on low end ?
Yes, I replaced the cheap stock $2 mid-range speakers for the coaxial speakers. The coxial speakers are full-range.
Hi could you let me know what speaker cables did you use? I used interconnected (from an RCA pair I had) but I get no sound no matter how I switch + to - back and forth… the “sound” is extremely muted and absolutely no sound from the tweeters, the bass driver moving but essentially no music I can hear from the speaker… 😢
You will need to solder 18 awg 2 conductor cable to the connector on the backbox. See the video at 12:40. Make sure positive and negative are the correct way.
Did you install the 160mm speakers or 200mm speakers on the front? The link you gave is for 160mm
Hi Andre. I just bought the speakers you installed and was told by an installer that these shouldn't be used because the tweeter won't work and that I should get coax instead. Do you have any issues with the sound on these and is the tweeter not being utilized? Thanks for the awesome video!
The infinity speakers are coaxial and the tweeter works fine.
I tried these same speakers and instructions on my 2013 model s but the speakers were too big. I don’t know how they worked on your car because for me they protruded too far out to fit.
That is very strange because I have read that they haven't changed the enclosures 2012-2020 in the Model S - mine is a 2016 - speaker model is identical? Did you shave the inside enclosure ring?
@@andrerink6888 no i did not. are you supposed to do that?
I ended up using a oscillating cutter to cut out the plastic ring that was in the way. Worked great!
Hey this video is great! Couple questions- could you list the things you had to purchase in addition to the speakers? (Wire type, soldering iron, screws to mount, etc.) I just ordered the speakers and they are here next week!
Glad you liked it, the screws come with the speakers, here's the list,
• Speakers: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07T2F77FZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• T25 - Torque Screw Driver for Door Speaker Enclosure
• T30 - Torque Screw Driver for Door Panel
• 10 mm - Socket for Door Panel
• Door Clip Dismantle Kit: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00SB7QAZ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• 18 AWG 2 Conductor Copper Speaker Wire
• Weller Soldering Iron, Solder
• Cordless Drill, Drill Bit
• Tin Snips
• Dremel Tool
@@andrerink6888 thanks a ton!!!! On the dremel, what tip did you use? Just one of the sanding ones?
Yes, just to sand down the sharp edges
@@andrerink6888 just did them yesterday and it turned out great and sounds great. FYI if you didn't know, you can actually twist the tweeters in the speakers to point the way you want. I thought I messed up on the first one when it was pointing downwards but then bam, just rotated it upwards.
@@jamchampnate thx for the tip, yes I saw that they can be moved, mine was perfectly positioned out of the box
Great video! Did you have the high fidelity sound option ?
My model didn't come with the high performance package - I have compared the high performance with these speakers and they are comparable, I would only replace the speakers with the base system.
Great video-which app did you use for the RTA?
I used an app called Sound Spectrum Analyzer
Did you also replace the amplifier?
I didn't replace the amp
Any suggestions as of what Amp to replace with? 🤝
Does it fit a tesla model s 2014 with base audio system and stock amplifier? And is the bass better when upgrading to this kappa set? And also one more question is it possible to use sliders of the EQ on the screen after installing this?
Fits 2012-2020, bass is much better, yes use the eq settings to increase the base and treble
@@andrerink6888 Thanks. one more question how can i know which is the positive and the negative for the connections? because i just received the speakers and want to connect them. i dont have a measurement tool.
@@liutaurasvaitkus2772 teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/2017-model-s-front-speaker-wire-colors.91808/page-2
@@andrerink6888 Thanks alot. doings this install today!
I have installed the speakers and the bass seems even lower than it was with the stock ones...
Do those same speakers fit in the back door panels like the front or do you need different ones?
The speaker enclosure in the rear doors is the same size as the front from what I have read. I didn't install them in the rear doors because people who have done this didn't hear much sound improvement and said that your money and time would be wasted doing this.
@@andrerink6888 thanks for the update! Great video
How much ohm carry the original speakers?
The original speakers are 2 Ohms
what about the tweeters on the top dash?
Leave them in, high frequencies are directional. The tweeters in the door add warmth.
the website says it wont fit 2015 tesla model s
Can you send the link? I have read that they fit 2012 - 2020 models
@@andrerink6888 it’s the same link you have above
Just installed these. Listed, from amazon www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZHJ683?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title I may not need a sub. I'm going to do the rear for additional bass since they are only $126 the highs are still coming from the top of the dash, not too propionate from the speakers.
Those car compatibility guides do not take into account that you are dismantling the factory speaker in the oem mount so they incorrectly indicate that they won’t work.
Why didn't you just insulate the doors?
The backboxes are self contained and all the sound comes through the grill, filling the door with insulation probably wouldn't make a difference.
OK so I think when we test systems , we should play music we probably dont listen to, how can you judge lows with all those electric guitars …maybe use the music you like for the mids and highs , then use some hip hop to truly test the low end..because a rock based kick drum IS NOT a valid low end testing sound
I used a spectrum analyzer, watch the end
@@andrerink6888 Spectrum analyzer isnt going to take the place of a real world Bass test with Music. Not trying to crap on your video as a whole just saying , I would have played Music with different frequency content. Rock, Hip Hop, Jazz, Metal , etc