Here is a way you can get more sludge out. Rent a pressure washer or borrow one. Remover inspection port. Remove fuel. Place two rags in the corners on one side. Take a halyard and have someone big haul it down so the boat will heel. Use the pressure washer to blast on the upper side of the baffle notch. Make sure that the rag prevents stuff from going in the opposite baffle system on the down side. Clean the gunk out of that section with the inspection port. Then heel the other way . It does a decent job on sludge at the bottom of tanks. The pressure generally can get all the way to the back if you aim it right.
I have a friend who has a fuel polisher he made and the return hose has a copper tube bent at 90 degrees. This allows to return flow to agitate the sludge on the bottom of the tank. Very effective even with baffles.
I just came across your channel a couple days ago and went on a marathon. In one of your videos you talked about chasing bubbles, thank you. I have come across a couple of his videos last year and never knew of chasing bubbles. Great documentary and so thankful you told us about. Happy sailing ⚓♥️
Awesome! The doc was made after I met Ross. I actually contributed to the kick-starter campaign to help pay for the production costs. (you can see my name on the credits :) This was before I bought Satori. By the time the movie came out, I was living on Satori. Watching the doc gave me the kick in the ass to get me shit together and untie the lines. The timing was perfect.
Like others have said you should add access plates to the sections between baffles. No telling what’s still in there. I had similar tank design so added 8” diameter access plates made by Seabuilt. Made for this type retrofit, no welding required. A little pricey but the improvement is worth every penny. For what it’s worth PRI-D diesel fuel treatment has worked well for me. I’ve been told it’s the best diesel fuel treatment, but I’m sure lots of opinions out there.
Very glad to see you have discovered biocides and I would also recommend using what we in CA call a “Baja filter.” I lived aboard a boat that circumnavigated the earth over a period of six years and NEVER had a fuel problem because of these two key defenses. The filter is a pain, and you probably don’t need it in highly developed fueling locations, but ALWAYS use one if there is even the slightest question about the source of your diesel fuel. Oh, also always check your intake water; I noticed you have an overheat sensor, but that only works if there is nearly zero water intake for your engine, but symptoms could seem the same as fuel clogs.
You absolutely must get access to all compartments of the tank ! Anything short of that will cause you major problems down the road. When the work is completed with out question you have to use a anti fungus product. In my business I always used biobor . Use it with each fill up.
When you have to replace your fuel tank/tanks and you will (saw some pitting due to water) have them designed with a well/sump at a designed low side spot in the tank. At that low spot have two things, 1) an inspection spigot to draw fuel from to examine. 2) a pick-up tube for your own fuel polisher. Also the tank should have a few limber holes (especially where the vertical wall meets the baffle and floor) at the bottom of the tank of each baffle to allow "Dead Bugs" to flow to the well area. On the opposite side of the well should be the return line from your polisher to add some "current" in the fuel tank to wash the bugs down. Get the same size Racor you now have for same filter element replacement. High capacity pump for a strong return pressure of fuel to the tank. All appropriate on-off valving to select inputs and outlets. Water in the fuel will always be at your tanks low spot and only get to your filter/separator when your shaking the tank and running the engine, or if you have a spigot at that low spot. That was an Excellent approach to your current problem that you performed.
Ours was so bad, and I got so tired of changing Racors, that I took the tank out (ours was only a 39 gallon tank and easy to get to) and had it pressure washed (they make specialized wands for this to get around the baffles). The stuff that came out, looked just like that (the consistence of cooked down spinach and unidentified gunk!). We used BioBor after that, and I don't think I changed a single fuel filter in the three years after that, that we owned the boat! That's a pretty slick polishing rig.
Yeah, I was lucky to find it here in Luperon. Not a lot of resources readily available there. After our tanks were completely cleaned (coming up in the next couple vids), we haven’t had any issues since.
DUDE!!! 4:34 min into your vid and now I am screaming what everybody else is saying, CUT ACCESS HOLES WITH A four inch (4") HOLE SAW, USE A PLATE w/GASKET to create an INSPECTION PORT!!!!!! Use a freakin 6" hole saw if your Popeye.. lol.. Love ya'll but it isn't a big deal with the tanks.. BTW, Sir Arthur??
May be worth you guys checking the O ring or seal on your diesel filler cap. It is the most likely cause of moisture in the tank given your location will not cause massive condensation and bug that can only grow when there is moisture in the tank. Then just check the tank breather has a good swan neck loop to resist water ingress... Couple of thoughts for you ...... Sail Safe. Ant, Cid & the Pooch crew.
To avoid condensation and water in the fuel add methylated spirit, have always done that in my boats and never had a problem. Also you should clean the supply and return line system with methylated spirit. Diesel bugs are a major problem unless that fuel system is cleaned in its entierty. Good tht you add biocide that will keep the system good once propely cleaned. Also you should check the tank bottom for pitting corrsion, which it looked like I could see just after the first cleaning. One problem solved migth cause another to show up like dirt off and pitting revealed and can cause small leakage. Just to add the diesel bugs live in the bottom water at the tank and feed off the desel above. Good luck on your adventures and fair winds.
Seems to me, this are new videos...old footage? Plus, there were fuel issues before the sabbatical! At the end she says, "It marks the end of hurricane season"! Must've been November? Doesn't matter, glad to have you guys back!
For enviormental reasons sulfur was removed from diesel fuel. It acted as an insecticide keeping the organics from growing in the fuel. The organics create the sludge and water so you have to polish the fuel regularly. When i had my generator tanks cleaned the vendor used a chemical treatment first that killed it and caused it to drop to the bottom of the tank where it was vaccumed and run through a filter and returned to the tank replacing filters until the fuel tested clean. I would suggest a double fuel filter system on your engine so you can quickly switch to a clean filter if the one you have in service starts to clog.
We have the 2 filter system onboard. I’ve shown it in a couple other videos. It’s nice to know you can have a fresh clean filter with the turn of a valve!
PRIST is an ANTIBACTERIAL used in jet fuel tanks to ELIMINATE YOUR SPECIFIC PROBLEM! this PRIST works fine with any kerosene based fuel . Diesel, jet-A , heating oil, etc. I add prist to my heating oil tank at my cabin in Alaska. Also in my diesel truck! Also I fill my diesel truck with jet-A with PRIST already added every once in awhile to keep it clean but kind of expensive to do it too often. Remember PRIST
CUT MORE INSPECTION HOLES. It is just soft aluminum. A jig saw will do a great job. Buy some self tapping screws, gasket material and sheet aluminum. Do both tanks. You will be amazed by the amount of junk still in the tanks. As you have seen, if the gunk plugs the fuel line, the best filter in the world won't help. Everyone complains about filters clogging but the cause is a dirty tank. Especially check the fuel pick up tube.
I had my fuel tank (40 gallons) professionally cleaned last summer. They pumped all the fuel out into a 55 gallon drum, filtering it. Then they Pressured washed the entire insides using, Industrial Purple Cleaner & Degreaser. Using a Shop Vacuum. More Spraying. Shop Vac. A final rinse and Vacuum. Squeaky clean! Then repolishing my fuel back into my tank adding Bio Side. It took them, I was there, 3 hours. And cost me $720 USD. New Racor filter, $$ Disposal fee, $$ I bought my Ericson 41 last March. I wanted to be sure that there were no problems with the fuel tank. One of the owners, I'm the 4th, had a clean out install on the tank, and they cut away some of the baffling (2) to get on the other sides. I had to cut a circular hole in the Cockpit sole. I didn't have hardly any sludge. Water yes. I need a new Fuel Deck Fill. When we run our Diesel's. The return fuel line, returns HOT fuel back into the cold fuel tank. Condensation is formed.
@@SailingSatori I wanted to see how the Pro's do it, first. Yes it was expensive. Today I have most of the equipment to do it myself. 12 volt Fuel Transfer Pump & clear hoses. A large Fuel Filter, Racor. Extra Filters. 3 gallon Shop Vac. And this summer I'll buy a 1000 or 1500 PSI Pressure washer. And a few other smaller items. I'll be able to use this tools for other purposes too.
may I recommend a product called Fuel Doctor,it is a fuel system conditioner and will help prevent diesel bug and condensation contamination, also a water separating filter funnel I recommend Mr Funnel this will stop contanination from the bowser or jerry cans
It’s really not that bad of a cleaning chore, If you have inspection ports in each section. If you don’t, and have any concerns, I would suggest adding them. I’ll be doing the same in the next couple videos. 😉
Algae grows in diesel fuel more in tropical hot weather than in colder climates. I had the same problem in my fuel tanks. I put in a small day tank that only hols 15 gal. and an electric pump to fill it from my main tank. when I fill it the fuel goes through a racor filter. The day tank is above the fuel pump on the engine so that the polished fuel is gravity fed to the secondary filters.If you only fill the day tank for what you use in a day the fuel should stay free of algae. Be careful using algaecides be cause they can cause the algae to clump up in the bottom of the tank just like you had. Look for marinas that have filters between their pumps and the nozzle as their tanks may have lots of algae.
Fuel polishing helps, but you have lots of that sludge on the other sides of the baffles. How do I know? I have a 110-gals diesel tank on my trawler. The center section has an access panel like yours. I cleaned that out just like you. Then I developed a leak on the right side of the tank but could not get to it due to the baffle. I cut 2 more access ports, on either side of the baffles. You could not imagine the amount of sludge on the bottom of the tank. Each side had a pile of sludge 2.5 inches high, in a 9-inch pie pan. I am sorry to say, I would bet money that there is the same amount of sludge you found in the center section, in the other 3 sections. My sludge would not be affected by a bumpy cruise - it was pretty firmly affixed to the bottom of the tank. BTW, I use BioBor JF also. I am switching to an additive called Fuel Right. Best of luck.
Alge growth, common with fuel in warmer climates. Need many extra fuel filters and an alge growth killer fuel supplement. Will clean the tanks in no time, but while it's doing it process you will go thru a bunch of fuel filters.
This makes for an interesting read www.pbo.co.uk/gear/12-diesel-bug-treatments-tested-43353 these tests were done a few years ago but the information is still relevant.
@@SailingSatori Indeed. You might want to pull out the pick up tubes and see if there is a screen on the end of them that's clogged. You can also get a hose down the pick up tube and suck out the junk but the best way to do it is to cut a hole in the top of the tank so you can clean it out. You can also add a fine mesh screen "cup" under the pick up tubes that way. If you cut a 4" (or larger) hole you can add a 4" screen cup/cylinder under each pick up tube. Or you can use a screen off an automotive in tank fuel pump but they wouldn't have as much area. Looking forward to your solution.
It algae from having water in your tank. If it's that bad you can use the biocide to break it up. Add a little bit of fuel and suck most of it back out. Shouldn't be an issue for the fuel filter to take care of.
Hi, John here from West St. Paul. I saw in your bio vid your from the south metro of Twin Cities... Rosemount? It's awesome you dropped outta the mainstream and are cruising. I own a place in St.Pete Beach and a home in St. Paul. It would be cool to hook up if possible. I sailed on my friend's dad's Katana Catamaran 471 up the Yucatan a few years ago. I'm thinking of getting back into the lifestyle, could use some motivation though LOL,gonna be 50 in 2 months, money in the bank and from Minnesota, no need to say more right? Reach out to me if I can be of any help. GO WILD!!!!
Nick. Love the videos. I actually have the same boat here on the Chesapeake.... Not that its boat specific, but take a peak at these access plate kits fueltankparts.com/collections/custom-flanges-parts-adapters/products/6od-x-4id-bolt-in-tank-clean-out-access-plate I am looking at installing one per chamber and adding a dedicated pick-up ( all the way at the bottom of the tank to get water) and return to the tank with a DIY fuel polisher on a 12v digital timer to auto-polish the fuel tank once a week for 6-8 hours. Probably overkill, but that and biocide every time fuel is added should keep the fuel super clean.
Hi Robert! That’s awesome, would love to see some pics of your boat! I am currently working on a video where I install access ports to all of the tank sections. Scrambled around Puerto Rico to get all the materials for DIY ports. No problems since then!
@@SailingSatori I'll send you some pics via your website contact. I've been busy last 2 seasons redoing interior cushions/foam, added solar, swim platform, wifi gateway for instruments, IPAD nav, class B AIS, replaced all hatch seals and acrylic, restitched all canvas, resealed hull/deck joint, etc, etc. It never ends!!!!
I had one, took it off because it was rusted to shut and I thought I’d was the source of an earlier fuel problem. Turned out to be a bad seal on the Racore bowl. It’s now on my LONG list of to-do’s.
You"d figure there would be access ports on each baffle for clean-out? Maybe the designers/engineers thought that would cause more potential leaks. What do I know ;-)
Note to self: Pump out and remove diesel tanks prior to departing, cut new access holes for each baffle section and flush out or pressure clean the tanks completely, then re-install. Enlist the help of King Arthur to supervise the project :) Great video btw !! Mr. Funnel video: ruclips.net/video/5exQCUaBc7I/видео.html
I had a conversation with a specialist diesel system cleaner. Fuel bug actually grows in the tiniest amounts of water in the tanks. This is often caused by condensation and the bug is algae which is airborne. Leave a glass of water standing for a few days and see what happens.
@@SailingSatori Don't try to rush it! You've probably already done it, but if you haven't... 1. Be sure that your holesaw blade is Bimetal. 2. To drill or cut SS with a holesaw, use relatively SLOW speed and firm pressure. Use a light viscosity lubricant to help dissipate the heat. In a pinch you can just use soapy water, but diesel will also work. 3. Take your time. If the tank is heavy gauge, stop after a minute, wait a minute, repeat. If you build up too much heat you'll work harden the metal, not to mention destroying the holesaw. I have holesaws that I have used dozen of times on SS, following this procedure.
Why don’t they design tanks that are much easier to clean and remove. Tanks don’t last forever and having to replace fuel tanks is a major pain and obstacle to selling or purchasing an older boat.
Step by step: 1. Find a source for sheet aluminum that matches the thickness of your tank. Thicker is okay. You should be good with a 24” x 24” sheet for three 6” holes. 2. Get a box of sheet metal screws and some gasket making sealant. 3. Cut a 4” hole over each baffled section of the tank and sand the edges. 4. Cut three 6” holes out of the sheet metal you sourced. The discs will be the covers for your inspection holes on the tank. 5. When the tank is clean and ready, de-burr your covering discs with sandpaper. 6. Dry fit your cover discs and tape down with masking tape. 7. Layout your screw holes with even spacing of about 2” all around. 8. Drill holes at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock and screw them tight. 9. Drill the rest of your screw holes. 10. Mark 12 o’clock on each disc and the tank for each cover. 11. De-burr each screw hole with a countersink bit and wipe clean with acetone. 12. Apply a solid bead of gasket sealant around perimeter of inspection hole on tank. 13. Lay cover disc with 12 o’clock matching mark on tank and insert screws, tightening only about halfway. 14. Leave the discs and gasket sealant to set up overnight. 15. The next day, tighten all screws firmly.
King Arthur called me and said tell them to cut 3 more holes in the tank top and clean the tanks get the shit out. That king art is a smart dog he also said think peanutbutter flavored dog biscuits are the shit
the one tank having way more growth got me thinking. And that hurt! LOL : ) But a question came to mind, do each of the tanks have to be filled or is there a interconnecting line between the two? Thought being that the water that causes the growth may not be from condensation but from water in the fuel that settles to the bottom of the primary tank during fueling. Good luck!
Oh that should be the final straw , time to move on to a cat . Just let me know where to send a check for the Morgan and where Satori will be lying so I can assume ownership . Also King Arthur would have lifetime visitation rights .
Here is a way you can get more sludge out. Rent a pressure washer or borrow one. Remover inspection port. Remove fuel. Place two rags in the corners on one side. Take a halyard and have someone big haul it down so the boat will heel. Use the pressure washer to blast on the upper side of the baffle notch. Make sure that the rag prevents stuff from going in the opposite baffle system on the down side. Clean the gunk out of that section with the inspection port. Then heel the other way . It does a decent job on sludge at the bottom of tanks. The pressure generally can get all the way to the back if you aim it right.
Hell of an imagination you have there Allyn. I think it’s worth a try just to make a video about it! 😂
It's a good thing you're handy and fix things yourself! Great video It's hard to believe things can actually "grow" inside diesel fuel.
I have a friend who has a fuel polisher he made and the return hose has a copper tube bent at 90 degrees. This allows to return flow to agitate the sludge on the bottom of the tank. Very effective even with baffles.
That sounds like a good feature!
Good video. Fuel polishing is a must every once in a while.
I just came across your channel a couple days ago and went on a marathon. In one of your videos you talked about chasing bubbles, thank you. I have come across a couple of his videos last year and never knew of chasing bubbles. Great documentary and so thankful you told us about. Happy sailing ⚓♥️
Awesome! The doc was made after I met Ross. I actually contributed to the kick-starter campaign to help pay for the production costs. (you can
see my name on the credits :) This was before I bought Satori. By the time the movie came out, I was living on Satori. Watching the doc gave me the kick in the ass to get me shit together and untie the lines. The timing was perfect.
Like others have said you should add access plates to the sections between baffles. No telling what’s still in there. I had similar tank design so added 8” diameter access plates made by Seabuilt. Made for this type retrofit, no welding required. A little pricey but the improvement is worth every penny.
For what it’s worth PRI-D diesel fuel treatment has worked well for me. I’ve been told it’s the best diesel fuel treatment, but I’m sure lots of opinions out there.
Good call. Stay tuned...
Good call. Stay tuned...
You guys had a great channel. Miss you. Hope you are well.
Very glad to see you have discovered biocides and I would also recommend using what we in CA call a “Baja filter.” I lived aboard a boat that circumnavigated the earth over a period of six years and NEVER had a fuel problem because of these two key defenses. The filter is a pain, and you probably don’t need it in highly developed fueling locations, but ALWAYS use one if there is even the slightest question about the source of your diesel fuel. Oh, also always check your intake water; I noticed you have an overheat sensor, but that only works if there is nearly zero water intake for your engine, but symptoms could seem the same as fuel clogs.
Great video! We loved every second. Fair winds, friends
Thanks guys!
You absolutely must get access to all compartments of the tank ! Anything short of that will cause you major problems down the road.
When the work is completed with out question you have to use a anti fungus product. In my business I always used biobor .
Use it with each fill up.
Your are absolutely right.... stay tuned.
When you have to replace your fuel tank/tanks and you will (saw some pitting due to water) have them designed with a well/sump at a designed low side spot in the tank. At that low spot have two things, 1) an inspection spigot to draw fuel from to examine. 2) a pick-up tube for your own fuel polisher. Also the tank should have a few limber holes (especially where the vertical wall meets the baffle and floor) at the bottom of the tank of each baffle to allow "Dead Bugs" to flow to the well area. On the opposite side of the well should be the return line from your polisher to add some "current" in the fuel tank to wash the bugs down. Get the same size Racor you now have for same filter element replacement. High capacity pump for a strong return pressure of fuel to the tank. All appropriate on-off valving to select inputs and outlets. Water in the fuel will always be at your tanks low spot and only get to your filter/separator when your shaking the tank and running the engine, or if you have a spigot at that low spot. That was an Excellent approach to your current problem that you performed.
Interesting solution. I wish I had this super tank you speak of. Thanks for watching and the comment!
The pitting in the tank is called MIC - microbially influenced corrosion. The biofilm in the tank helps with the formation of anodic corrosion sites.
Ours was so bad, and I got so tired of changing Racors, that I took the tank out (ours was only a 39 gallon tank and easy to get to) and had it pressure washed (they make specialized wands for this to get around the baffles). The stuff that came out, looked just like that (the consistence of cooked down spinach and unidentified gunk!). We used BioBor after that, and I don't think I changed a single fuel filter in the three years after that, that we owned the boat! That's a pretty slick polishing rig.
Yeah, I was lucky to find it here in Luperon. Not a lot of resources readily available there. After our tanks were completely cleaned (coming up in the next couple vids), we haven’t had any issues since.
DUDE!!! 4:34 min into your vid and now I am screaming what everybody else is saying, CUT ACCESS HOLES WITH A four inch (4") HOLE SAW, USE A PLATE w/GASKET to create an INSPECTION PORT!!!!!! Use a freakin 6" hole saw if your Popeye.. lol.. Love ya'll but it isn't a big deal with the tanks.. BTW, Sir Arthur??
Stay tuned...
May be worth you guys checking the O ring or seal on your diesel filler cap. It is the most likely cause of moisture in the tank given your location will not cause massive condensation and bug that can only grow when there is moisture in the tank. Then just check the tank breather has a good swan neck loop to resist water ingress... Couple of thoughts for you ...... Sail Safe. Ant, Cid & the Pooch crew.
Thanks for the tip guys!
To avoid condensation and water in the fuel add methylated spirit, have always done that in my boats and never had a problem. Also you should clean the supply and return line system with methylated spirit. Diesel bugs are a major problem unless that fuel system is cleaned in its entierty. Good tht you add biocide that will keep the system good once propely cleaned. Also you should check the tank bottom for pitting corrsion, which it looked like I could see just after the first cleaning. One problem solved migth cause another to show up like dirt off and pitting revealed and can cause small leakage. Just to add the diesel bugs live in the bottom water at the tank and feed off the desel above. Good luck on your adventures and fair winds.
Thanks Lars! Stay tuned...
@@SailingSatori Absolutely - looking forward to the continuation..
I hope you have that fuel sorted after all that effort.Also glad hurricane season is done,now you can get on with life.Best wishes 🙂
Thanks Wayne... fuel is sorted now, but there is a bit more work to do after this clean-out.
Seems to me, this are new videos...old footage? Plus, there were fuel issues before the sabbatical! At the end she says, "It marks the end of hurricane season"! Must've been November? Doesn't matter, glad to have you guys back!
You are right... it doesn’t matter! 🤔😉😃
For enviormental reasons sulfur was removed from diesel fuel. It acted as an insecticide keeping the organics from growing in the fuel. The organics create the sludge and water so you have to polish the fuel regularly. When i had my generator tanks cleaned the vendor used a chemical treatment first that killed it and caused it to drop to the bottom of the tank where it was vaccumed and run through a filter and returned to the tank replacing filters until the fuel tested clean. I would suggest a double fuel filter system on your engine so you can quickly switch to a clean filter if the one you have in service starts to clog.
We have the 2 filter system onboard. I’ve shown it in a couple other videos. It’s nice to know you can have a fresh clean filter with the turn of a valve!
I’ll bet Kelly’s toothbrush could make that tank shine like new money 😝.
😂
The infamous diesel bug
PRIST is an ANTIBACTERIAL used in jet fuel tanks to ELIMINATE YOUR SPECIFIC PROBLEM! this PRIST works fine with any kerosene based fuel . Diesel, jet-A , heating oil, etc. I add prist to my heating oil tank at my cabin in Alaska. Also in my diesel truck! Also I fill my diesel truck with jet-A with PRIST already added every once in awhile to keep it clean but kind of expensive to do it too often. Remember PRIST
CUT MORE INSPECTION HOLES. It is just soft aluminum. A jig saw will do a great job. Buy some self tapping screws, gasket material and sheet aluminum. Do both tanks. You will be amazed by the amount of junk still in the tanks. As you have seen, if the gunk plugs the fuel line, the best filter in the world won't help. Everyone complains about filters clogging but the cause is a dirty tank. Especially check the fuel pick up tube.
Stay tuned...
I had my fuel tank (40 gallons) professionally cleaned last summer. They pumped all the fuel out into a 55 gallon drum, filtering it.
Then they Pressured washed the entire insides using, Industrial Purple Cleaner & Degreaser. Using a Shop Vacuum. More Spraying. Shop Vac. A final rinse and Vacuum.
Squeaky clean! Then repolishing my fuel back into my tank adding Bio Side.
It took them, I was there, 3 hours. And cost me $720 USD.
New Racor filter, $$
Disposal fee, $$
I bought my Ericson 41 last March. I wanted to be sure that there were no problems with the fuel tank.
One of the owners, I'm the 4th, had a clean out install on the tank, and they cut away some of the baffling (2) to get on the other sides.
I had to cut a circular hole in the Cockpit sole.
I didn't have hardly any sludge. Water yes. I need a new Fuel Deck Fill.
When we run our Diesel's. The return fuel line, returns HOT fuel back into the cold fuel tank. Condensation is formed.
Interesting... kind of expensive to get that bad boy cleaned out professionally. But I bet it’s worth the peace of mind!
@@SailingSatori
I wanted to see how the Pro's do it, first. Yes it was expensive. Today I have most of the equipment to do it myself.
12 volt Fuel Transfer Pump & clear hoses.
A large Fuel Filter, Racor. Extra Filters.
3 gallon Shop Vac.
And this summer I'll buy a 1000 or 1500 PSI Pressure washer.
And a few other smaller items. I'll be able to use this tools for other purposes too.
may I recommend a product called Fuel Doctor,it is a fuel system conditioner and will help prevent diesel bug and condensation contamination, also a water separating filter funnel I recommend Mr Funnel this will stop contanination from the bowser or jerry cans
Ive been dreaded this, We will need to clean the tank before we set off.
It’s really not that bad of a cleaning chore, If you have inspection ports in each section. If you don’t, and have any concerns, I would suggest adding them. I’ll be doing the same in the next couple videos. 😉
Where's the king!! always enjoy your vids..
We were gone put him in the tank to sniff out more bugs, but he wants t having it.
Why not cut access holes in each section. That way you can always clean the entire tank. They can be closed off with plates and gaskets.
Stay tuned 😉
Algae grows in diesel fuel more in tropical hot weather than in colder climates. I had the same problem in my fuel tanks. I put in a small day tank that only hols 15 gal. and an electric pump to fill it from my main tank. when I fill it the fuel goes through a racor filter. The day tank is above the fuel pump on the engine so that the polished fuel is gravity fed to the secondary filters.If you only fill the day tank for what you use in a day the fuel should stay free of algae. Be careful using algaecides be cause they can cause the algae to clump up in the bottom of the tank just like you had. Look for marinas that have filters between their pumps and the nozzle as their tanks may have lots of algae.
I have read about gravity fed day tanks. Sounds like a pretty good solution.
Fuel polishing helps, but you have lots of that sludge on the other sides of the baffles. How do I know? I have a 110-gals diesel tank on my trawler. The center section has an access panel like yours. I cleaned that out just like you. Then I developed a leak on the right side of the tank but could not get to it due to the baffle. I cut 2 more access ports, on either side of the baffles. You could not imagine the amount of sludge on the bottom of the tank. Each side had a pile of sludge 2.5 inches high, in a 9-inch pie pan. I am sorry to say, I would bet money that there is the same amount of sludge you found in the center section, in the other 3 sections. My sludge would not be affected by a bumpy cruise - it was pretty firmly affixed to the bottom of the tank. BTW, I use BioBor JF also. I am switching to an additive called Fuel Right. Best of luck.
: good job lots of work.
Thanks Mr. Rider
Alge growth, common with fuel in warmer climates. Need many extra fuel filters and an alge growth killer fuel supplement. Will clean the tanks in no time, but while it's doing it process you will go thru a bunch of fuel filters.
This makes for an interesting read www.pbo.co.uk/gear/12-diesel-bug-treatments-tested-43353 these tests were done a few years ago but the information is still relevant.
Have you also checked your impellers?
Biobor and be ready to change filters a lot. Please cut inspection holes. so you can clean the pick up areas
Stay tuned...
@@SailingSatori Indeed. You might want to pull out the pick up tubes and see if there is a screen on the end of them that's clogged. You can also get a hose down the pick up tube and suck out the junk but the best way to do it is to cut a hole in the top of the tank so you can clean it out. You can also add a fine mesh screen "cup" under the pick up tubes that way. If you cut a 4" (or larger) hole you can add a 4" screen cup/cylinder under each pick up tube. Or you can use a screen off an automotive in tank fuel pump but they wouldn't have as much area. Looking forward to your solution.
There is a bacteria that forms in diesel fuel, and there is a treatment for it. I forget what it is called.
Biobore is one... and is now used regularly.
PRIST is the only ANTIBACTERIAL you need!!! Trust me
It algae from having water in your tank. If it's that bad you can use the biocide to break it up. Add a little bit of fuel and suck most of it back out. Shouldn't be an issue for the fuel filter to take care of.
Hi, John here from West St. Paul. I saw in your bio vid your from the south metro of Twin Cities... Rosemount? It's awesome you dropped outta the mainstream and are cruising. I own a place in St.Pete Beach and a home in St. Paul. It would be cool to hook up if possible. I sailed on my friend's dad's Katana Catamaran 471 up the Yucatan a few years ago. I'm thinking of getting back into the lifestyle, could use some motivation though LOL,gonna be 50 in 2 months, money in the bank and from Minnesota, no need to say more right? Reach out to me if I can be of any help. GO WILD!!!!
Sweetness!! We’re actually heading back to St Pete. Will be back in the Fall :)
Nick. Love the videos. I actually have the same boat here on the Chesapeake.... Not that its boat specific, but take a peak at these access plate kits fueltankparts.com/collections/custom-flanges-parts-adapters/products/6od-x-4id-bolt-in-tank-clean-out-access-plate I am looking at installing one per chamber and adding a dedicated pick-up ( all the way at the bottom of the tank to get water) and return to the tank with a DIY fuel polisher on a 12v digital timer to auto-polish the fuel tank once a week for 6-8 hours. Probably overkill, but that and biocide every time fuel is added should keep the fuel super clean.
Hi Robert! That’s awesome, would love to see some pics of your boat! I am currently working on a video where I install access ports to all of the tank sections. Scrambled around Puerto Rico to get all the materials for DIY ports. No problems since then!
@@SailingSatori I'll send you some pics via your website contact. I've been busy last 2 seasons redoing interior cushions/foam, added solar, swim platform, wifi gateway for instruments, IPAD nav, class B AIS, replaced all hatch seals and acrylic, restitched all canvas, resealed hull/deck joint, etc, etc. It never ends!!!!
Missing the king on this video...
He did most of the filming!
add a vacuum gauge on fuel inlet line to fuel pump.
I had one, took it off because it was rusted to shut and I thought I’d was the source of an earlier fuel problem. Turned out to be a bad seal on the Racore bowl. It’s now on my LONG list of to-do’s.
You"d figure there would be access ports on each baffle for clean-out? Maybe the designers/engineers thought that would cause more potential leaks. What do I know ;-)
I think you know more than you’re letting on. Stay tuned...
Hahaha looks like you only enjoy clearing the fuel tank 😁
Probably need a marine fuel stabilizer or something like Biobor additive.
Biobor is now used with every fill.
there are additives same as in jet fuel that will kill off the slime. commercial transport aircraft have the same issues.
Damn... I’d rather be in the boat when things go wrong. 😳
Sailing Satori atleast you can pull over at 35000 feet that’s not an option
use your camera to look thru the holes in the gas tank?
Note to self: Pump out and remove diesel tanks prior to departing, cut new access holes for each baffle section and flush out or pressure clean the tanks completely, then re-install. Enlist the help of King Arthur to supervise the project :) Great video btw !! Mr. Funnel video: ruclips.net/video/5exQCUaBc7I/видео.html
Sounds like a lovely day!
@@SailingSatori I can imagine it would be a great time disassembling woodwork to get to those tanks :(
You cut holes in the top of each section of the tank and make new covers and screw them down. Has to be done🧐
I think you should blame King Arthur well that's limonite gas tank I be asking the dog
Cut inspection holes in each section
Stay tuned...
You may want to buy a cheap endoscope ligth bud...cheers.
You know, I actually have one. Didn’t even think of digging it out. Doh!
I had a conversation with a specialist diesel system cleaner. Fuel bug actually grows in the tiniest amounts of water in the tanks. This is often caused by condensation and the bug is algae which is airborne. Leave a glass of water standing for a few days and see what happens.
That good sir is algae
Time to buy a 4" hole saw and make yourself 3 other access ports. You'll be done in 5-10 minutes.
Edit: Well, I guess everyone is saying that.
5-10 minutes?😂
@@SailingSatori Don't try to rush it! You've probably already done it, but if you haven't...
1. Be sure that your holesaw blade is Bimetal.
2. To drill or cut SS with a holesaw, use relatively SLOW speed and firm pressure. Use a light viscosity lubricant to help dissipate the heat. In a pinch you can just use soapy water, but diesel will also work.
3. Take your time. If the tank is heavy gauge, stop after a minute, wait a minute, repeat. If you build up too much heat you'll work harden the metal, not to mention destroying the holesaw. I have holesaws that I have used dozen of times on SS, following this procedure.
Fuel Doctor
Why don’t they design tanks that are much easier to clean and remove. Tanks don’t last forever and having to replace fuel tanks is a major pain and obstacle to selling or purchasing an older boat.
If your diesel tank doesn't have an inspection hatch you can easy retrofit one from a company in Australia www.cleandiesel.com.au/shop/
Step by step: 1. Find a source for sheet aluminum that matches the thickness of your tank. Thicker is okay. You should be good with a 24” x 24” sheet for three 6” holes.
2. Get a box of sheet metal screws and some gasket making sealant. 3. Cut a 4” hole over each baffled section of the tank and sand the edges. 4. Cut three 6” holes out of the sheet metal you sourced. The discs will be the covers for your inspection holes on the tank. 5. When the tank is clean and ready, de-burr your covering discs with sandpaper. 6. Dry fit your cover discs and tape down with masking tape. 7. Layout your screw holes with even spacing of about 2” all around. 8. Drill holes at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock and screw them tight. 9. Drill the rest of your screw holes. 10. Mark 12 o’clock on each disc and the tank for each cover. 11. De-burr each screw hole with a countersink bit and wipe clean with acetone. 12. Apply a solid bead of gasket sealant around perimeter of inspection hole on tank. 13. Lay cover disc with 12 o’clock matching mark on tank and insert screws, tightening only about halfway. 14. Leave the discs and gasket sealant to set up overnight. 15. The next day, tighten all screws firmly.
Thanks David, very specific. I will end up doing this exact process in one of the next few vids... no surprise!
That's some ugly stuff in the tanks, good thing you have Kelly's stunning good looks to offset the ugliness in this video : )
True.
Install a new aluminum tank? Can't cost that much to have one made at a local welding shop?
How much do you think a 50 gal tank would cost?
Lunch Lol
😂
That's what biocide is for.
King Arthur called me and said tell them to cut 3 more holes in the tank top and clean the tanks get the shit out.
That king art is a smart dog he also said think peanutbutter flavored dog biscuits are the shit
He is right on so many levels. Except... with both tanks, it will require 6 more holes. 😬😳. Stay tuned...
the one tank having way more growth got me thinking. And that hurt! LOL : )
But a question came to mind, do each of the tanks have to be filled or is there a interconnecting line between the two? Thought being that the water that causes the growth may not be from condensation but from water in the fuel that settles to the bottom of the primary tank during fueling. Good luck!
Both tanks are filled separately. Interesting thought though, as painful as it was. 😉
Last two videos were good but too much Nick and not enough Kelly. Sorry Nick.
I’ll ask Kelly to start doing some tech vids... hmmmm.🤔
Howes diesel treat
Oh that should be the final straw , time to move on to a cat . Just let me know where to send a check for the Morgan and where Satori will be lying so I can assume ownership . Also King Arthur would have lifetime visitation rights .
I think cats have more engines... and thus more fuel tanks? Maybe not. And the king will remain with his vessel, you will become his property.
Sailing Satori true what was I thinking !