At my trailer dealership we install goosenecks and 5th wheel hitches daily. I sell and install whatever the customer wants. In my 3 years there I have never had a B and W come back for warranty or other issues. I can’t say the same for Curt, Reese or any others. I personally have had 6 trucks and put B and W goosenecks and companions in all of them. I’ve put over 1.5 million miles on trucks pulling goosenecks and 5th wheels both commercially and personally. I WILL NOT pull with anything but a B and W.
When I bought my ram it had the OEM 5th wheel hitch. I tried it for a year pulling our 43' fw. I sold it and bought a B&W. Its a bit smother and less noise. I really think B&W is better with chucking, noise reduction, and better at releasing in a bind. Thank you for the video.
Thanks this helps out a lot. In the market for a 5th wheel hitch. Lot of research and reviews. Still leaning towards B&W. Love your video's lots great information. Thanks for your hard work.
I have the B&W Puck Mount Hitch in my RAM 3500 SRW.... Best Hitch I've Ever Owned!!! Only "Wish" I have is that the handle was longer and easier to reach with a tall truck side.
Thanks for your comparison.I'll go for the B&W. Much stronger if proper welded compared to cast components no matter how thick the walls are. Great video!
Been using curt for 10 plus years for short bed trucks no problems just the roller wheel fell off got new one good to go the most travel back for short bed trucks
We went with B&W. Had an incident involving a turning point king pin that we didn’t realize was locked. The system tore up the receiver plate. If we had had the Curt, which is what I originally wanted, it would have destroyed either the bed of the truck or the frame of the trailer. There would not have been anywhere for the torque to go. The torque was so great it bent the receiver plate line a prizzle … very thankful for the 1/4” softer steel. Lippert could not believe the pictures
Can you share the story in an email with pics? Perhaps it would be a good story to share with others. Only if you're comfortable. bigtruckbigrv@gmail.com
Cast iron will always be thicker than milled or formed because its cheaper and more subject to failure (from a pouring issue). I'd rather have the formed/welded steel of the Companion. Plus - I hate that Ram has made the footprint of the puck system basically wall to wall. Way to make my bed completely useless when hitched up. Still, I'll probably buy another Ram because the Cummins/Aisin combo is still best.
This review was amazing because he didn’t bash either hitch he just pointed out how each hitch compares too each other and did his best too keep his opinion out but still be very informative
I have the Curt A25 hitch with the Reece air sidewinder pin box on my Montana High Country and I am very happy with it. Both work great together. Good ride, very stable.
I have a Curt A25 for the RAM Puck system in my 2020 Ram that I converted and moved over from a rail setup in my old Ram truck. My tow buddy runs a B&W ball attached setup. They are both excellent hitches and have been flawless for as long as we've had them. I would have preferred the B&W so I could shift the pin back 2" to allow the front compartment door to clear the tailgate but already had the Curt.
I have a B&W and love it! I love the fact that I close the jaws around the fifth wheel pin and lock it,compared to the jaws locking in when I backed under on my old Reese hitch.
Went from B&W Companion to the Anderson, great improvement in comfort and ease of removal. Switched to a Reese Goose Box this past winter. Holy cow, a tremendous improvement. Smooth, less shock on the truck, and virtually eliminated chucking. The chucking test will be in late March when we get on I95 south through SC, the worst interstate east of the Mississippi. It will tear up equipment.
I understand the height adjustment concern with the Curt, but if it’s your only hitch and your 5th wheel, you can always adjust the pin box on the camper down to gain the additional clearance needed at the bed rails.
@@1hasbeen531 You are correct, but if what you are looking for is 4-6 inches of clearance at the bed rails, how you achieve is a mute point. Whether raising the hitch or lowing the pin box, the 5th wheel nose will be the same height. Nose high vs. level becomes a function of the trucks bed height plus the necessary clearance to tow safely.
@@Itsa_Mea Yes, I understsnd all that. Been towing a long time. I stopped to answer a call, and mistakenly posted before completing my thought. Too late now. LOL. My bad.
I prefer to keep my hitch below the bed rail height and extend the pin box to adjust the trailer level. It allows me to use a tonneau cover to keep what in my bed from prying eyes when I reach my destination.
I slid down in a ditch with my Chevy dually while attached to my cedar creek 37mbh...trailer stayed on the road (long story). Anyway, my truck stayed on all fours ONLY because of my Curt Q25 hitch. The 360° rotation saved me...just about any other hitch would have almost certainly lifted the truck off the ground on one side and potentially damaged trailer/truck. Curt all day every day for me.
You should've done an apples - apples comparison on either Chevy or RAM style mounts. The base of the B&W on the RAM puck mount is substantially beefier (and heavier) than the Curt. Both hitches are great, but it specifically was how B&W did their puck system that sold me.
Another hitch that some may say looks flimsy would be the WeighSafe aluminum hitch. I sure thought so when I first saw it. I use mine on my F250 in the 3 inch receiver pulling a 14k gross trailer. I max out at 13500 lbs when I'm pulling my excavator. I've weighed it at a CAT scale just to verify that number. I've been running that hitch for 3 years now almost non-stop. The scale quit working so that's annoying but its still holding up.
Ive owned both of these hitches in a chevy and ram application. B&W is my preffered hitch mostly for the ease and security of coupling. I had the B&w slider in the Ram, then the Curt (from teh factory when i took delivery of the new 3500) and swapped out the Curt right away with the Companion 25K for the chev. the Curt was fine, but i felt it was a little sloppy in the jaw on a run from Ontario to Florida and i was not comfortable with the way you lock the couple (looking for colours int eh small window). for me, there is no comparison tot he B&W - but it will cost you more.
When I get to my destination I use a tonneau cover on my truck bed therefore I don’t want the hitch at bed rail level. I use the pin box to make up the difference to level the trailer and get my clearance.
One major upgrade for all of the 5th wheel hitches is to add Zerk fittings so that all moving parts can be lubricated. Reduces the wear and quiets things down. I suspect that the "Cast" parts on the Curt are likely a forging, not a raw casting. The pins on the hitch sides provide a tighter fit than bolts unless you were to use a shoulder bolt, where the shank of the bolt provides the strength in shear but not in tension.
I run an older curt 20k in my truck, I can tell you that it’s definitely well built. When I pull it out, it has to come out in 2 pieces. And the head alone is a pia to deal with.
Thanks for Another very informative and complete video. I was curious about how the Curt 30K FW Hitch compared to the B&W Companion and this video answered that for me. I have a Reese Elite 27.5K Hitch installed in my Ford F-450 and while it tows just fine it has not been the easiest to hook up to from the first time up to now. I have never been able to connect my fifth wheel to the hitch the first time and have had to reset the hitch and then it seems to connect the second time around. The jaw handle is also very difficult to pull out unless I’m standing on a small step stool to increase the pulling leverage. After watching various videos, including yours, I really like how the B&W Companion operates and it seems to work simply every time. I never considered the Curt hitches, but after watching this video it seems to be a worthy contender for a potential upgrade on our rig. I’ll wait until you’ve pulled the Beacon with it first and look forward to your honest opinion on how it works.
Thank you (again)...as always another informative video. Keep em coming. I like your videos and wondering if you can do one showing the ability/concerns with a standard size bed (with toolbox) and still being able to tow a 5th wheel. Some can, some can't, but not always known it can be normally done.
One is Chinese cast steel, the other in made in USA plate steel. Its a lot stronger and OEM go for one thing when buying a hitch "price". Also if you have a rotating pin box like the reese revolution you are not supposed to use the curt q series because of its spherical center.
Class 8 semi truck jaws aren't much bigger than 1" thick and don't always go all the way around the jaws. They are usually cast steel or cast and machined aluminum. If they can pull a 60,000 lb trailer, it'll pull your 20,000 lb camper.
Another great video! Thank you. I have a question that I'd like your input on.... how do you feel about the Reese 5th wheel hitches? I'm going to be in the market for a 5th wheel hitch soon and am looking into the various brands.
Put a 20K Reese in our first Ram in 1997 Very pleased with it. Bought a 2018 Ram, which came with a new style Reese 20K (puck mount). Wish I had my old Reese back. Definatley not impressed with the latch mechanism, doesn't stay open when hooking up, sometimes have to reopen 2-3 times before actually getting the pin in place, frustrating! Also would prefer 2 jaws overlapping when closed, Instead of only one. Look them all over and try working the latch mechanism if possible. Better yet watch people hooking/unhooking . Hope this helps.
I have a 15K 5th wheel and a Chevy 3500HD combo, and decided on the Curt A30. Great hitch, and between a Moryde pinbox and the A30's elastic mount it's a very smooth-trailering combo. However - I created 2 customer service web-site cases for Curt, and they never responded. Issue is I can NOT put locks on the base to discourage theft - the holes in both the locking arms and base are too small for a standard padlock. Seems like a boneheaded oversight - I should NOT have to grind off coatings to make a lock fit...
Used a Q25 Curt with my DRV for two and a half years with a older f350 dually, worked great, when I purchased my new 450 bed height different, not enough clearance, purchased a Hensley BD5 problem solved.By the way JD, 40 years in the trucking industry, please lube those fifth wheel jaws and king pin ,those dealers sending you new trucks with new fifth wheel pre installed tell me they know Nothing!Metal to metal is not a good mix!Makes me thing what else did the forget.
My B&W Companion does have Zerk fittings for the part that rotates side to side. I also lube my King pin with Teflon or Silicone spray everytime before hitching. Anyone else lubing the King Pin?
I got the Curt A20 last year when I bought my GMC. Smooth riding hitch, but very, VERY Difficult to un hitch. The handle won't lock in place, and customer support says try adjusting the trailer height. It's unsafe. Switching to the B&W.
I'm looking at purchasing A DWR 350 to pull a fifth wheel (yet to be purchased) and trying to understand how high the PIN should be to have proper clearance of the truck bed rails? Then when hitched up how much tilt of the truck and fifth wheel should I allow before adding aftermarket products to level out both? Sorry, but I'm a noob and want to understand before and purchase what will safely haul us around. Thanks all for any input in advance! And Thank you BTBRV for your videos and educating us.
I am currently using the 16,000 LBS Curt A16 SLIDING 5TH WHEEL PUCK SYSTEM ASSEMBLY #16675 & have been since 2018. Curt states it was tested for safety in accordance with SAE J2638. (This document establishes minimum performance criteria and definition of terms for the towing interface between a towing vehicle and fifth wheel or gooseneck trailer at or below 13 608 kg (30 000 lb) gross trailer weight. SAE J2638 establishes criteria for the hitch, tow vehicle attachment structure, trailer attachment structure, and coupling) I am contemplating switching to the Demco 18K Autoslide Ultra series Under Bed Mount #8550022 just so I don’t have to always get out of the truck (2020 F350 Platinum Tremor 6.7 SRW) to move the slide manually to the back of the truck for tight manoeuvres. Biggest downside is that the Demco 18K Autoslide will always be ALL the way forward (toward cab) when hitching & unhitching. It is so much easier to unhitch when the slide is all the way the back as I can have the tailgate fully open. My open tailgate hits the trailer if my Curt Slide is all the way forward towards cab. By the way, the Curt PUCK SYSTEM 5TH WHEEL ROLLER SLIDE, 24K, for FORD F-250, F-350, 6.75' BED #16020 weighs in at 96 LBS & the A16 5TH WHEEL HITCH HEAD #16520 weighs in at 84 LBS for a total of 180 LBS for the whole A16 SLIDING 5TH WHEEL PUCK SYSTEM ASSEMBLY #16675.
I own a Curt Q20. Just saw the B&W hitch at the RV show. I noticed that the jaws of the B&W seem to operate much more smoothly. I have had issues with the Curt releasing especially when the 5th wheel isn’t completely level. Does the B&W work better in this situation?
I am curious how B & W, Curt, Reese, and Gen Y hitches stack up. Currently I have a Reese Elite™ Series Fifth Wheel 26.5K on my 2017 F350, 6.7 L, Lariat Dually 4x4 with 4:10 running gears, pulling our 2020 DRV 39DBRS3 5th wheel. Like you I am concerned about the clearance on the bed side of the pickup. The Reese is easy to take apart (2 pieces) and set up in the puck system.
What is the problem with adjusting the RV hitch down a notch to obtain clearance verses what you did in raising the hitch up a notch? I am just curious. And if anyone else can comment on this I would love to hear from you. Thanks Joe
I like my Curt, but I would have bought the B&W if they had made a base plate adapter for my puck system in my Titan. J.D. when you get your new 5th wheel you need to get GenY to send you one of their Executive pin boxes. I'd like to see what you think of those after using them vs the Goosebox.
That’s a good comparison video and you talked about the bushings and the dampening system of the BMW but you did not talk about the bushings and dampening system of the Kurt. I have a Kurt a 16/5 wheel hitch I was just curious of what you thought of the dampening systems and how they compare.
BTBRV I just bought a 2022 Ram 3500 DRW with th M30 Curt 5th wheel. I took it out for a 600 mile RT run. I noticed that i getting slop between the jaws and the pin on my 2018 Grand Design 395m it seems excessive with clanking on stop and also acceleration , is there a jaw adjustment on the M30 ? It seems that the jaws are completely shut but there is definitely movement. I blocked the wheels and manually engaged the trailer brakes then went from drive to reverse under light throttle and back and there is movement. Any suggestions / thoughts are much appreciated.
I have the 22 DRW with the factory M30 same exact problem. The chucking loose noise when first take off and at last second when braking. Sucks, but I live with it
I am still not a fan of the puck system. I realize it is supposed to be more convenient but In my opinion i think it would be less, except for using it for just fifth wheel purposes. You have to store pucks, goose ball, and chain loops, etc. I like the B&W setup not only because it is a Kansas made product but it can store the goose ball right in the bed. BUT I don't like that to use the ball I have to stick my arm in the fender of my truck release the ball, get in the bed flip the ball over then get out engage the the lock possibly clean up get in the truck hook the trailer up get back in the bed and hook chains etc. I wish DropNLocks were being made for newer trucks in a bolt on form. Get in bed lift wedge, flip ball, insert wedge, hook trailer get in bed hook chains etc, done.
I feel the same way I thought i would like the puck system. for 5th wheels its nice but your right about the gooseneck system plus you if you need extra clearance you can get the 4" gooseneck extension.
I have a curt E16 slider and I absolutely hate the slider on it. So clunky and not smooth at all. Slams into locking position. I've been looking to upgrading to the B&W slider for a few months now
i have an a16 slider which i have never used the slide. I am thinking of turning the hitch around to slide it forward when not in use do you think that is possible?
@@bobkrause3796 I dont think so because the tow position has to be over the axle. That's where all the weight needs to be. If you flip it, to weight will be in the wrong place while towing
That Ram hitch is made by Curt. The components are nearly identical to Curt. The difference in the design is from RAM specs. I have an A 20 and a Q20 and they have the same handles, release and jaws as the Ram one. The Curt ones I have use the universal rail system since my F350 wasn't factory prepped. A Positive of CURT over BW is weight, about 100 pounds lighter, which is key when dealing with at or near GVWR on the truck when wet and ready. On mine I have it at the lowest setting, give the right amount of space for the Arctic Wolf 3660 Suite.
I have a 30k Curt that came on my Ram, its a beefy hitch. Only issue is the quality of the painting, they miss getting inside the hand rails so it will rust.
Nice comparison! You clearly state the Curt is a 30k hitch, but I missed what the rating is on the B&W. It looks like ours, which is a 20k. If so, how is it fair to stress how much thicker the steel is when they're not the same capacity? Not quite an apples to apples comparison. I love our B&W (trailer is about 17k).
Thickness is not as important as forging and heat treating to ensure steel strength. Has anyone seen a casting part crack and how granulated the interior looks like? That’s what one gets if not forged and heat treated. Watch”Forged in Fire”
Those parts you multiple times refer to as “cast” are actually forged. Forged parts are significantly stronger than cast and welded plate metal due to the cold working metallurgic dislocations and absence of thermal stress gradient producing welds. Ask an engineer next time you are trying to describe something that is foreign to you rather and broadcasting misinformation.
You do realize the hitch adjustment is not for bed clearance. It's to make the trailer go down the road level. When the trailer is level, if you don't have bed clearance, your truck is too tall.
For the Curt, weight depends on the truck make. The puck systems are different enough between RAM. GM, and Ford that it's significant. For the Curt, the Ram setup (A25) is 168 lbs. total, the head is 38 as I recall. I think the Ford base for the Curt is 80 lbs. The B&W is heavier, around 150 for the RAM puck style base and 75 for the head.
I don't think so. The fw he is currently testing, is a loaner until he receives his new one. Then he will switch out to the goose box in that one, because he is purchasing it.
Curt isn’t even compatible with their own products! Rota flex pin box and curt q25/30 aren’t compatible!! I had to buy a B&W due to Curt’s and the dealer’s incompetence of not informing me of this when I took delivery of my new unit!!!!
I wouldn't trust the cast Curt parts or how spread out the mounting legs are. I will only use the solid steel B&W to pull my grand design toy hauler at 20,000lbs loaded. It probably doesn't matter which one most people get tbh. Most people don't have a big enough fifth wheel for it to matter. But when you're pulling a $200k 45ft camper with another $100k in cargo and vehicle in the back you don't want to worry about your hitch crumpling when you have to hit the brakes. B&W is made in the U.S.A., Curt is made by communist china.
At my trailer dealership we install goosenecks and 5th wheel hitches daily. I sell and install whatever the customer wants. In my 3 years there I have never had a B and W come back for warranty or other issues. I can’t say the same for Curt, Reese or any others. I personally have had 6 trucks and put B and W goosenecks and companions in all of them. I’ve put over 1.5 million miles on trucks pulling goosenecks and 5th wheels both commercially and personally. I WILL NOT pull with anything but a B and W.
I’ve had both up rites crack on a b&w 3 places on each up rite
When I bought my ram it had the OEM 5th wheel hitch. I tried it for a year pulling our 43' fw. I sold it and bought a B&W. Its a bit smother and less noise. I really think B&W is better with chucking, noise reduction, and better at releasing in a bind. Thank you for the video.
Good review.
Have had Curt hitch for 4 yrs, no issues.
Thanks this helps out a lot. In the market for a 5th wheel hitch. Lot of research and reviews. Still leaning towards B&W. Love your video's lots great information. Thanks for your hard work.
Thanks for the education. Just bought a B&W for my F450 at Etrailer.
I have the B&W Puck Mount Hitch in my RAM 3500 SRW.... Best Hitch I've Ever Owned!!! Only "Wish" I have is that the handle was longer and easier to reach with a tall truck side.
I agree. I had to buy a small step stool at HD to carry with me to be able to reach the handle and the locking pin. Great hitch though.
Thanks for your comparison.I'll go for the B&W. Much stronger if proper welded compared to cast components no matter how thick the walls are. Great video!
Been using curt for 10 plus years for short bed trucks no problems just the roller wheel fell off got new one good to go the most travel back for short bed trucks
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to show us up close in detail.
We went with B&W. Had an incident involving a turning point king pin that we didn’t realize was locked. The system tore up the receiver plate. If we had had the Curt, which is what I originally wanted, it would have destroyed either the bed of the truck or the frame of the trailer. There would not have been anywhere for the torque to go. The torque was so great it bent the receiver plate line a prizzle … very thankful for the 1/4” softer steel. Lippert could not believe the pictures
Can you share the story in an email with pics? Perhaps it would be a good story to share with others. Only if you're comfortable. bigtruckbigrv@gmail.com
Cast iron will always be thicker than milled or formed because its cheaper and more subject to failure (from a pouring issue). I'd rather have the formed/welded steel of the Companion.
Plus - I hate that Ram has made the footprint of the puck system basically wall to wall. Way to make my bed completely useless when hitched up. Still, I'll probably buy another Ram because the Cummins/Aisin combo is still best.
Thanks for the information and comparison of these 2 hitches. I have been looking to upgrade to 1 of these hitches. Thanks JD.
I’ll keep my B&W
B&W Made In Kansas, USA
This review was amazing because he didn’t bash either hitch he just pointed out how each hitch compares too each other and did his best too keep his opinion out but still be very informative
Have a B&W in my current truck, will be a B&W again in my new truck.
I have the Curt A25 hitch with the Reece air sidewinder pin box on my Montana High Country and I am very happy with it. Both work great together. Good ride, very stable.
I like it, almost graduated into a RAM guy.
I have a Curt A25 for the RAM Puck system in my 2020 Ram that I converted and moved over from a rail setup in my old Ram truck. My tow buddy runs a B&W ball attached setup. They are both excellent hitches and have been flawless for as long as we've had them. I would have preferred the B&W so I could shift the pin back 2" to allow the front compartment door to clear the tailgate but already had the Curt.
Yeah great compassion on both set up’s looking at it I like the curt looks super strong.
I have a B&W and love it! I love the fact that I close the jaws around the fifth wheel pin and lock it,compared to the jaws locking in when I backed under on my old Reese hitch.
Went from B&W Companion to the Anderson, great improvement in comfort and ease of removal. Switched to a Reese Goose Box this past winter. Holy cow, a tremendous improvement. Smooth, less shock on the truck, and virtually eliminated chucking. The chucking test will be in late March when we get on I95 south through SC, the worst interstate east of the Mississippi. It will tear up equipment.
Anderson has a history of failure . It’s aluminum and it doesn’t take much for a complete collapse
I love my B & W Companion hitch. Never an issue.
Great review. I’m going with B&W. 👍🏻
I understand the height adjustment concern with the Curt, but if it’s your only hitch and your 5th wheel, you can always adjust the pin box on the camper down to gain the additional clearance needed at the bed rails.
As long as it doesn't result in the fiver riding nose-high.
@@1hasbeen531 You are correct, but if what you are looking for is 4-6 inches of clearance at the bed rails, how you achieve is a mute point. Whether raising the hitch or lowing the pin box, the 5th wheel nose will be the same height. Nose high vs. level becomes a function of the trucks bed height plus the necessary clearance to tow safely.
@@Itsa_Mea Yes, I understsnd all that. Been towing a long time. I stopped to answer a call, and mistakenly posted before completing my thought. Too late now. LOL. My bad.
I prefer to keep my hitch below the bed rail height and extend the pin box to adjust the trailer level. It allows me to use a tonneau cover to keep what in my bed from prying eyes when I reach my destination.
I slid down in a ditch with my Chevy dually while attached to my cedar creek 37mbh...trailer stayed on the road (long story). Anyway, my truck stayed on all fours ONLY because of my Curt Q25 hitch. The 360° rotation saved me...just about any other hitch would have almost certainly lifted the truck off the ground on one side and potentially damaged trailer/truck. Curt all day every day for me.
You should've done an apples - apples comparison on either Chevy or RAM style mounts. The base of the B&W on the RAM puck mount is substantially beefier (and heavier) than the Curt. Both hitches are great, but it specifically was how B&W did their puck system that sold me.
Another hitch that some may say looks flimsy would be the WeighSafe aluminum hitch. I sure thought so when I first saw it. I use mine on my F250 in the 3 inch receiver pulling a 14k gross trailer. I max out at 13500 lbs when I'm pulling my excavator. I've weighed it at a CAT scale just to verify that number. I've been running that hitch for 3 years now almost non-stop. The scale quit working so that's annoying but its still holding up.
Ive owned both of these hitches in a chevy and ram application. B&W is my preffered hitch mostly for the ease and security of coupling. I had the B&w slider in the Ram, then the Curt (from teh factory when i took delivery of the new 3500) and swapped out the Curt right away with the Companion 25K for the chev. the Curt was fine, but i felt it was a little sloppy in the jaw on a run from Ontario to Florida and i was not comfortable with the way you lock the couple (looking for colours int eh small window). for me, there is no comparison tot he B&W - but it will cost you more.
When I get to my destination I use a tonneau cover on my truck bed therefore I don’t want the hitch at bed rail level. I use the pin box to make up the difference to level the trailer and get my clearance.
Thanks good stuff... I was looking at both and went with the Curt A30 or (M30 RAM branded)
One major upgrade for all of the 5th wheel hitches is to add Zerk fittings so that all moving parts can be lubricated. Reduces the wear and quiets things down.
I suspect that the "Cast" parts on the Curt are likely a forging, not a raw casting. The pins on the hitch sides provide a tighter fit than bolts unless you were to use a shoulder bolt, where the shank of the bolt provides the strength in shear but not in tension.
I love my old style b&w companion but with my larger trailer and plans to get a bigger truck, I cant wait to keep my bed and go to a goosebox hitch
Absolutely love my B&W!
I run an older curt 20k in my truck, I can tell you that it’s definitely well built. When I pull it out, it has to come out in 2 pieces. And the head alone is a pia to deal with.
I’ve had B&W forever. Née truck has the curt. Gonna give it a try.
'
i did homemade the small 5th wheel on the R/C kyosho blizzard with a long trailer and missile...
very good
Thanks for Another very informative and complete video. I was curious about how the Curt 30K FW Hitch compared to the B&W Companion and this video answered that for me. I have a Reese Elite 27.5K Hitch installed in my Ford F-450 and while it tows just fine it has not been the easiest to hook up to from the first time up to now. I have never been able to connect my fifth wheel to the hitch the first time and have had to reset the hitch and then it seems to connect the second time around. The jaw handle is also very difficult to pull out unless I’m standing on a small step stool to increase the pulling leverage. After watching various videos, including yours, I really like how the B&W Companion operates and it seems to work simply every time. I never considered the Curt hitches, but after watching this video it seems to be a worthy contender for a potential upgrade on our rig. I’ll wait until you’ve pulled the Beacon with it first and look forward to your honest opinion on how it works.
I towed with it using the Chevy 3500HD I had a few weeks ago. I'll be towing with it soon using the RAM as well.
I have a B&W and love it.
FYI
If you install the Roller frame, which will give you a Slider Hitch, the hitch will be raised another 2 or 4 inches (approx.).
Thanks for the review. Very good information.
Thank you (again)...as always another informative video. Keep em coming. I like your videos and wondering if you can do one showing the ability/concerns with a standard size bed (with toolbox) and still being able to tow a 5th wheel. Some can, some can't, but not always known it can be normally done.
One is Chinese cast steel, the other in made in USA plate steel. Its a lot stronger and OEM go for one thing when buying a hitch "price".
Also if you have a rotating pin box like the reese revolution you are not supposed to use the curt q series because of its spherical center.
Class 8 semi truck jaws aren't much bigger than 1" thick and don't always go all the way around the jaws. They are usually cast steel or cast and machined aluminum. If they can pull a 60,000 lb trailer, it'll pull your 20,000 lb camper.
Great info , you know your stuff 👍🏽
Another great video! Thank you. I have a question that I'd like your input on.... how do you feel about the Reese 5th wheel hitches? I'm going to be in the market for a 5th wheel hitch soon and am looking into the various brands.
Put a 20K Reese in our first Ram in 1997 Very pleased with it. Bought a 2018 Ram, which came with a new style Reese 20K (puck mount). Wish I had my old Reese back. Definatley not impressed with the latch mechanism, doesn't stay open when hooking up, sometimes have to reopen 2-3 times before actually getting the pin in place, frustrating! Also would prefer 2 jaws overlapping when closed, Instead of only one. Look them all over and try working the latch mechanism if possible. Better yet watch people hooking/unhooking . Hope this helps.
B&W 👍
Thanks for the comparison. Good stuff to know. 🛻
Cast steel has to be 23% thicker than carbon steel to be equally as strong!
The puck system on ram is close enough to the tailgate where can hook my goose neck chains up with out climbing in the bed.
I have the Q 24 and love it. Guaranteed for 10 years and 5 minutes I can have it on the ground
Need to know more about the bed liner / rug!
It's a Bedrug or Access Bed Mat. Both are great and do not hold water long
Awesome tutorial
I have a 15K 5th wheel and a Chevy 3500HD combo, and decided on the Curt A30. Great hitch, and between a Moryde pinbox and the A30's elastic mount it's a very smooth-trailering combo.
However - I created 2 customer service web-site cases for Curt, and they never responded. Issue is I can NOT put locks on the base to discourage theft - the holes in both the locking arms and base are too small for a standard padlock. Seems like a boneheaded oversight - I should NOT have to grind off coatings to make a lock fit...
Thank you. Very Informative.
"Fabricated" steel. Formed is die formed. Fabricated is steel pieces welded together.
Used a Q25 Curt with my DRV for two and a half years with a older f350 dually, worked great, when I purchased my new 450 bed height different, not enough clearance, purchased a Hensley BD5 problem solved.By the way JD, 40 years in the trucking industry, please lube those fifth wheel jaws and king pin ,those dealers sending you new trucks with new fifth wheel pre installed tell me they know Nothing!Metal to metal is not a good mix!Makes me thing what else did the forget.
My B&W Companion does have Zerk fittings for the part that rotates side to side. I also lube my King pin with Teflon or Silicone spray everytime before hitching. Anyone else lubing the King Pin?
Can you pull the curt apart pretty easily like the BW to save my back when removing?
I got the Curt A20 last year when I bought my GMC. Smooth riding hitch, but very, VERY Difficult to un hitch. The handle won't lock in place, and customer support says try adjusting the trailer height. It's unsafe. Switching to the B&W.
Just bought a Ram with no bed..any recommended brand? Pulling a Mini 5 Kaukman trailer car hauler
I'm looking at purchasing A DWR 350 to pull a fifth wheel (yet to be purchased) and trying to understand how high the PIN should be to have proper clearance of the truck bed rails? Then when hitched up how much tilt of the truck and fifth wheel should I allow before adding aftermarket products to level out both? Sorry, but I'm a noob and want to understand before and purchase what will safely haul us around. Thanks all for any input in advance! And Thank you BTBRV for your videos and educating us.
I been Installing both for 20 years ....give me Curt any day
Why? (I own a Curt)
I bought a 2017 ram dually along with a ram fifth wheel hitch with the highest rating they had in 2017 of 25,000 lbs.
Which 5th wheel hitch do you recommend for a Ford short box. Thanks
I am currently using the 16,000 LBS Curt A16 SLIDING 5TH WHEEL PUCK SYSTEM ASSEMBLY #16675 & have been since 2018. Curt states it was tested for safety in accordance with SAE J2638. (This document establishes minimum performance criteria and definition of terms for the towing interface between a towing vehicle and fifth wheel or gooseneck trailer at or below 13 608 kg (30 000 lb) gross trailer weight. SAE J2638 establishes criteria for the hitch, tow vehicle attachment structure, trailer attachment structure, and coupling) I am contemplating switching to the Demco 18K Autoslide Ultra series Under Bed Mount #8550022 just so I don’t have to always get out of the truck (2020 F350 Platinum Tremor 6.7 SRW) to move the slide manually to the back of the truck for tight manoeuvres. Biggest downside is that the Demco 18K Autoslide will always be ALL the way forward (toward cab) when hitching & unhitching. It is so much easier to unhitch when the slide is all the way the back as I can have the tailgate fully open. My open tailgate hits the trailer if my Curt Slide is all the way forward towards cab. By the way, the Curt PUCK SYSTEM 5TH WHEEL ROLLER SLIDE, 24K, for FORD F-250, F-350, 6.75' BED #16020 weighs in at 96 LBS & the A16 5TH WHEEL HITCH HEAD #16520 weighs in at 84 LBS for a total of 180 LBS for the whole A16 SLIDING 5TH WHEEL PUCK SYSTEM ASSEMBLY #16675.
I own a Curt Q20. Just saw the B&W hitch at the RV show. I noticed that the jaws of the B&W seem to operate much more smoothly. I have had issues with the Curt releasing especially when the 5th wheel isn’t completely level. Does the B&W work better in this situation?
I am curious how B & W, Curt, Reese, and Gen Y hitches stack up. Currently I have a Reese Elite™ Series Fifth Wheel 26.5K on my 2017 F350, 6.7 L, Lariat Dually 4x4 with 4:10 running gears, pulling our 2020 DRV 39DBRS3 5th wheel. Like you I am concerned about the clearance on the bed side of the pickup. The Reese is easy to take apart (2 pieces) and set up in the puck system.
What is the problem with adjusting the RV hitch down a notch to obtain clearance verses what you did in raising the hitch up a notch? I am just curious. And if anyone else can comment on this I would love to hear from you.
Thanks
Joe
How much do they weight? Given you need to remove now and then🤔
B&w is a bit heavier. But IMO easier to move. And pulls better in my experience.
B&w all the way had a curt/ mopar hitch in my dodge went back to b&w
I like my Curt, but I would have bought the B&W if they had made a base plate adapter for my puck system in my Titan.
J.D. when you get your new 5th wheel you need to get GenY to send you one of their Executive pin boxes. I'd like to see what you think of those after using them vs the Goosebox.
That’s a good comparison video and you talked about the bushings and the dampening system of the BMW but you did not talk about the bushings and dampening system of the Kurt. I have a Kurt a 16/5 wheel hitch I was just curious of what you thought of the dampening systems and how they compare.
Do you know if the Reese M5 30918 would work on a 6’4 bed 2020 Ram 2500? Thanks
Am not big into casted metals as they always crack very easy because castings often have air pockets, i think the b&w is much better quality
Can you share a link to the other video of your Curt 5th wheel?
I stick with my Blue Ox even if I didn’t need it for a short bed.
BTBRV I just bought a 2022 Ram 3500 DRW with th M30 Curt 5th wheel. I took it out for a 600 mile RT run. I noticed that i getting slop between the jaws and the pin on my 2018 Grand Design 395m it seems excessive with clanking on stop and also acceleration , is there a jaw adjustment on the M30 ? It seems that the jaws are completely shut but there is definitely movement. I blocked the wheels and manually engaged the trailer brakes then went from drive to reverse under light throttle and back and there is movement. Any suggestions / thoughts are much appreciated.
I have the 22 DRW with the factory M30 same exact problem. The chucking loose noise when first take off and at last second when braking. Sucks, but I live with it
I have a 2018 ram 3500 with the 30k hitch from factory, buying a 5th wheel finally and getting the B&W hitch. Made in the USA not China!
I am still not a fan of the puck system. I realize it is supposed to be more convenient but In my opinion i think it would be less, except for using it for just fifth wheel purposes. You have to store pucks, goose ball, and chain loops, etc. I like the B&W setup not only because it is a Kansas made product but it can store the goose ball right in the bed. BUT I don't like that to use the ball I have to stick my arm in the fender of my truck release the ball, get in the bed flip the ball over then get out engage the the lock possibly clean up get in the truck hook the trailer up get back in the bed and hook chains etc. I wish DropNLocks were being made for newer trucks in a bolt on form. Get in bed lift wedge, flip ball, insert wedge, hook trailer get in bed hook chains etc, done.
I feel the same way I thought i would like the puck system. for 5th wheels its nice but your right about the gooseneck system plus you if you need extra clearance you can get the 4" gooseneck extension.
Look at Blue Ox. They have a rotating ring that locks the ball in. Rotate the ring, flip over the ball and let it relock.
I have a curt E16 slider and I absolutely hate the slider on it. So clunky and not smooth at all. Slams into locking position. I've been looking to upgrading to the B&W slider for a few months now
i have an a16 slider which i have never used the slide. I am thinking of turning the hitch around to slide it forward when not in use
do you think that is possible?
@@bobkrause3796 I dont think so because the tow position has to be over the axle. That's where all the weight needs to be. If you flip it, to weight will be in the wrong place while towing
@@Nuck82 during towing exposed rail will be towards the front while the hitch would be centered over the axle
That Ram hitch is made by Curt. The components are nearly identical to Curt. The difference in the design is from RAM specs. I have an A 20 and a Q20 and they have the same handles, release and jaws as the Ram one. The Curt ones I have use the universal rail system since my F350 wasn't factory prepped. A Positive of CURT over BW is weight, about 100 pounds lighter, which is key when dealing with at or near GVWR on the truck when wet and ready. On mine I have it at the lowest setting, give the right amount of space for the Arctic Wolf 3660 Suite.
I have a 30k Curt that came on my Ram, its a beefy hitch. Only issue is the quality of the painting, they miss getting inside the hand rails so it will rust.
Stickers fade in the sun as well. Not UV resistant at all.
Nice comparison! You clearly state the Curt is a 30k hitch, but I missed what the rating is on the B&W. It looks like ours, which is a 20k. If so, how is it fair to stress how much thicker the steel is when they're not the same capacity? Not quite an apples to apples comparison. I love our B&W (trailer is about 17k).
Thickness is not as important as forging and heat treating to ensure steel strength. Has anyone seen a casting part crack and how granulated the interior looks like? That’s what one gets if not forged and heat treated. Watch”Forged in Fire”
my b&w jaws broke after purchasing only 2 months in
I think my question maybe answered by other comments. Is there not some adjustment at the king pin?
Not at the pin itself, but the pinbox to frame has some adjustment for height as well.
Those parts you multiple times refer to as “cast” are actually forged. Forged parts are significantly stronger than cast and welded plate metal due to the cold working metallurgic dislocations and absence of thermal stress gradient producing welds. Ask an engineer next time you are trying to describe something that is foreign to you rather and broadcasting misinformation.
I’ve got the setup for the puck system and would like to get this type of hitch. Would you buy it from a RAM dealer?
You can buy it from etrailer or a trailer shop/rv dealer usually. Cheaper than what a ram dealer could get it to you for
You can buy them online with free shipping for much cheaper.
In high winds you need to pull over in a wind storm...not keep driving. Not as many people can afford a B&W.
Tenth!
Any word out there on the Reese Goose Box 25k or 30k
I know it has nothing to do with towing, hauling, or RV's, but are you going to try and get a hold of a new 2021 Ram 1500 TRX to review?
I'll try
You do realize the hitch adjustment is not for bed clearance. It's to make the trailer go down the road level. When the trailer is level, if you don't have bed clearance, your truck is too tall.
It's actually for both my friend
Is there a weight difference, could you post the weight of both? Thanks!
I love my B&W, but it is Significantly heavier. Probably 50lbs or more heavier overall.
For the Curt, weight depends on the truck make. The puck systems are different enough between RAM. GM, and Ford that it's significant. For the Curt, the Ram setup (A25) is 168 lbs. total, the head is 38 as I recall. I think the Ford base for the Curt is 80 lbs.
The B&W is heavier, around 150 for the RAM puck style base and 75 for the head.
After dealing with a failed b&w I'll just buy curt products
what happened with your hitch mines failed after only having for 2 months my jaws broke
Apparently max tongue 3000 lb. bW is 6600 lb
Did you get rid of your Goose Box?
I don't think so. The fw he is currently testing, is a loaner until he receives his new one. Then he will switch out to the goose box in that one, because he is purchasing it.
@@markbremmer8642 Gotcha, thanks.
👍🏽👍🏽
Curt isn’t even compatible with their own products! Rota flex pin box and curt q25/30 aren’t compatible!! I had to buy a B&W due to Curt’s and the dealer’s incompetence of not informing me of this when I took delivery of my new unit!!!!
I wouldn't trust the cast Curt parts or how spread out the mounting legs are. I will only use the solid steel B&W to pull my grand design toy hauler at 20,000lbs loaded. It probably doesn't matter which one most people get tbh. Most people don't have a big enough fifth wheel for it to matter. But when you're pulling a $200k 45ft camper with another $100k in cargo and vehicle in the back you don't want to worry about your hitch crumpling when you have to hit the brakes. B&W is made in the U.S.A., Curt is made by communist china.