F 500 V3 Oslo Introductory Video
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Two time Vesta award winner, including Best in Show and Best New Technology, the Jøtul F 500 V3 Oslo has quickly become one of the most recognized wood stoves on the market. Utilizing patent pending Jøtul Fusion™ Technology, the F 500 V3 Oslo was able to combine the best aspects of a typical non-catalytic wood stove with ground breaking Jøtul High Flow™ Combustor technology to create a clean burning wood stove that operates without the need for a bypass. The absence of a combustor bypass allows the F 500 V3 Oslo to operate in clean burn mode 100% of the time.
I had a Jotul stove in the house for decades. Never a problem. Installed a new Jotul two years ago that has the combustor. Trust me you want no part of a stove with such emissions equipment. Constant headache. Very difficult to not have smoke coming into the room when you open the door to load wood. Combustor gets clogged easily. As always emission control equipment makes things more expensive more troublesome and more finicky. Really has taken the enjoyment out of heating the house with firewood.
same problem.. had the older 500 and loved it. The new one is a constant smoke fight. The moved the older 500 to the basement thinking I would put the new version in the living room. I burn dry hardwood and it works great for about 2 weeks. The combustor get clogged and smokes the room. Considering that I use this stove 24/7 for the winter months.. it is a pain.
Just remove the combuster.
The F500 is a beautiful and well made stove. I bought one about 2 years ago. I'm using it as my sole heat source in my 2000 sqft house. Not sure if that combuster slows down the air/ exhaust flow that much but I'm sure not getting 12 hour burn times. And I dont even use the ash pan, I let it fill up and just shovel the ash out in order to keep hot coals in the stove. Most I can get is 6 hours with useable coals to keep the stove going, 8+ hours yes there are coals enough to get it going with a bit of kindling and spend an hour getting it burning again. Not like the 12 hour tending times on my coal stove, every 12 hours shake the ash, load the coal and done. Dont get me wrong the olso is a beautiful stove, and probably the best made stove on the market today, but the "burn time" doesn't mean actual heat output in my opinion.
What kind of wood arecyou burning and how dry?
@@wobdee1 red oak, white oak, ash. Most dry 2 years, some longer
Spend an hour to get it burning again?
@@johnthornton7763 don't have to worry about it anymore, I sold the oslo and bought a coal stove. Now I have consistent 12 our tending times in cold weather and 24 hour tending in mild weather
@@grizzlipper09 Hey! if it works for you...
Can’t cut the air back as much as you used to. You basically have two options... hot and hotter. This is why it’s a clean burning stove. It runs nearly 100% all the time. I don’t think the combuster has much to do with it.
Great job Jotul!
Keep up the good work!
Is the secondary air electronically controlled? Will the stove work with a power outage?
The F500 has been my first choice for a replacement for my CDW 2462. The only downside to this CDW is, the top on this stove with a catalyst and refractor won't get hot enough to cook on,. With the insulation between the combustor and the stovetop, will the F500 V3 get hot enough to cook?
I own a 2006 F500, which is a V1 or 2 (I'm not sure). It is a non-catalytic stove. I think I'll probably upgrade it to this one next year and get the huge tax break (26% of the purchase price and installation cost). I've always shied away from catalytic stoves because their operation tends to be more fussy than non-catalytics. Most (pretty much all) require you to open a bypass door on the top to let the smoke go straight up the chimney until the catalyst temp reaches a certain threshold and then you close the bypass door and let the smoke get burned up by the catalyst. You have to pay close attention to the temp during the beginning of the fire so you don't mess up your catalyst or forget to close the bypass door and let all the smoke go straight up the chimney getting a low efficiency burn and causing a lot of air pollution.
Trust me you want no part of a stove with a catalyst system. You will smash your head against a wall if you make the change. Forget the tax break nonsense. You will just end up using my tax dollars that were given to you for therapy. That is how frustrating the catlayst system is.
@@somedayzo6 I felt similarly about catalytic stoves until seeing this one. The high flow combustor looks like a monumental change from typical combustors in that it's not fussy to operate (no bypass), it allows for high air flow and thermal expansion (much less likely to get damaged by a hot fire), and it has a 20 year guarantee on it. A friend who owned an early model of a Jøtul catalytic stove said they destroyed their combustor and they switched to a secondary burn Jøtul stove. Jøtul stopped making catalytic stoves for several years until they came out with this new design. You have to have a stove with a catalytic combustor to get to the highest efficiencies and lowest emissions.
I have the older one...no side load
Its 15yrs old and hasnt needed a dime....burns hot clean no build up straight pipe yall know through the floor to the roof....
Can you use wooden pallets for wood burners to warm my house.If I can I will take the nails out ?
Pallet wood is often treated, I wouldn’t burn it.
The Jotul F500 Oslo (not version 3) is our second Jotul (after our old Jotul #6) since 3 years ago and we're happy with it. However, I watch the Jotul F500 Oslo on RUclips and they all have very clean window. That's not the case for us. After a few hours of operation, the window turns dark gray and we can't see the fire anymore. What should we do to correct the situation? Our wood lighting is like most of those on RUclips, but unlike them, with a flame that burns upwards, our flame comes back towards the glass and that's where the grey deposit (soot) builds up on the glass and prevents us from seeing the fire. Thank you for your suggestions.
Looking good! Is the F400 Castine next? I've been looking at that stove for my cabin.
I have a small problem in heating. I have noticed that the heat tranfer is not as efficient and the reburn seams to be not as effective. I have completely cleaned the combustor. I am thinking secondary air is not making it back to the reburn.
Can these be inserted into an already existing brick fireplace (firebox)? Do you just eliminate the stand? I'm not clear on how these "insert" into a fireplace. Thanks for any helpful response.
Have you figured out how to not dump ash on the floor/tray every time either door is opened? Miserable door design collects ash about ~1" tall and them falls out every time.
I own an older F500 Oslo and it never dumps ash out the side door, because I load wood through it such that it isn't up against the door. Like he said, the stove takes logs up to 24" long so as long as they are under 24" you shouldn't have a problem with the side door dumping ash. The front door is another story. I only open it to clean or do maintenance on the stove as ash dumps out overwhelming the ash lip.
This is better than the Woodstock Progress hybrid technology
Hello, I have this stove which I love It. I actually also use It to Cook It.
On the top, there are some oil stains that remeined After I cooket It, how can I clean the external part safely?
Thanks a lot
It appears this Fusion Technology could be adapted to several of Jøtul's prior non-catalytic stoves like the Firelight, Castine, etc, that all have the same basic design as the Oslo. I suspect that would cause each of them to easily meet the EPA 2020 standards. Does Jøtul plan to do this?
Can our older F500 be converted to use the new features ?
can a 2004 model F500 be upgraded to this technology, and estimate that cost??
What is the price of this b3 wood stove
How warm is too warm for this stove?
Anything? I’ve had temps hit 1100 on outside upper right corners with no signs of red glowing in the dark.
I want to upgrade my Jotul F 500 Oslo.
Is that possible?
I don't know if I have a V1 V2 or V3.
But the serial number is 012802
can anyone help me further?
Do you sell a upgrade or conversion kit if you have a V2 Oslo?
Catalytic jotul?????? 😱 😱
Do you plan on updating the F 55 for 2020?
I agree that a stove with a combustor is more complicated than non combustor stoves. I've had both. Granted the V3 has a simpler combustor but its still a combustor stove. I couildn;t be more satisfied with my old model Oslo 500. Very good at keeping smoke to non existant when I check what is coming out of the chimney. I can roast a turkey on it and it heats my whole house up and downstairs. The combustor is another added "improvement" that is not needed in my opinion although it is "politically correct" in this modern society.
Numerous reports of cat failures and warping
Totally disappointed with this stove. I have a 1500 sq ft home and cannot get thermostat past 68. Brand new renovations on home and perfectly seasoned wood. Had a few guys here that burn wood every year for the last 40 years and they can't figure it out. Had the stove professionally installed and went back to the place and they said its my wood..3 year old wood that's covered, so not he wood
Having a strong draft is critical. How is your stove vented? Do you get a smokey smell in your house when a fire is burning. I have an older version of the Oslo and I have a 6" pipe coming off the stove that plugs via a thimble into an insulated 6" pipe that is embedded in a 7"x11" ceramic chimney tile that is inside a brick chimney that is mostly inside my house except the upper few feet. I get a really strong draft and that helps the stove to burn hot and cleanly with very little back-puffing.
I wouldn't buy it again. 1.5 yrs in and needed a new cat and refractory. The flimsy refractory that sits above the cat cracks. If you ever want to pull the cat out to clean which is needed every year then you basically need to call a tech to put the thing back together because nothing fits right. The rest of the stove is nice...but this setup is garbage and I wish I never bought this stove. Also after 1.5 years there are 3 bolts that hold this stove on the one in the back was not there and the two up front the nuts rusted on and could not get the nuts off even with wire brush and penetrating oil....so just go out and buy some stainless M6 x 40 and save a headache down the road. They should have used stainless from the start.