I made it 10mins and had to stop. I swear if I hear you call it a ENGINE one more time I’m going to throw my phone. It makes you sound like you have no clue what you are talking about
Maybe you should look up the definition of an engine instead of thinking your smarter than everyone, hence: "a machine that uses energy to produce movement"
you all prolly dont give a shit but does someone know of a method to get back into an instagram account?? I somehow forgot my account password. I love any tricks you can offer me!
@Hugh Ace I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process now. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@@ChrisPatrickRC it really doesn’t matter. These guys are so full of themselves and their semantics, when technically they are entirely incorrect. They’re just used to hearing the word, “engine,” associated with internal combustion, and, “motor,” associated with electricity - yet, they haven’t looked into the actual meanings of the words. It’s just not that big of a deal. Especially when one considers that you’re taking the time to share what you’ve learned by doing, while they create only criticism. But you, sir, handle it with dignity and grace! Unlike myself 😂
@@soundmindtv2911 i get what your saying and I agree, there are not many videos out there that properly explain these things for normal people to understand, meanwhile if I did or didn't use the correct terminology, the information in my opinion was still extremely useful which is why the video remains up. And thanks for the words of encouragement because I still continue to look for new topics to cover and I still continue to race rc cars.
You can get a cheap dial indicator and measure end play and then do a bit of math to adjust actual end play. A cheap digital caliper would tell you which combo to use. Aluminum is metal by the way just not magnetic but over all I like your video. Not being critical just you'll get less complains on your future video's
Yes, I agree just didn't have one and didn't think that when I made this video series originally. I know own one but its for my 3d printer. As for the magnetic part. The screws are usually steel not aluminum , so they are magnetic and affect the magnetic field. If my memory is correct, I upgraded those to the aluminum screw kit... I think anyway. Either way thanks for the input!
It was a pretty good video. You said it was a dirty motor so why wouldn't you show how to clean it? Especially with the bearings. On the topic of the bearings you didn't say anything about upgrading bearings to a better grade and or being ceramic. keep up the videos.
honestly didnt even think about that as a video, and i just might do this topic for a idea. i personally havnt tried ceramic bearings , so it gives me an excuse to try them and do a video on it.....
Wish there was a way to actually tune the powerband like a real car...would love to have the r Torque and powerband meet at a certain throttle position...they have a punch setting so idk why this isn't a thing or is it?
Dude I changed the powerband of my car. Or atleas the way the car accelerated with the top speed. At first I had the motor in at stock timing (around 30degrees) and an additional 15ish degrees of electronic timing. The car was fun and responsive and got to top speed very quickly and topped out. I took out the motor, lowered timing to 14degrees mechanical, changed the esc to a boost, and turbo timing esc. Added 24 degrees of boost w/8 degrees of turbo. Completely transformed the car. Same 3s battery throughout. Haven’t changed the rotor but plan on seeing what that’s all about when I get bored of how great the car is now🤣. Just experiment bro. Btw I don’t use any esc’s lower than 120a in any of my cars. Even my 12th scale
@@ConditionZero76 sometimes things have reasons, im trying to learn to edit better, and with these being my older videos too. but ether way, hope you enjoyed the content! and thanks for the support.
It’s not an engine it’s a motor!
I made it 10mins and had to stop. I swear if I hear you call it a ENGINE one more time I’m going to throw my phone. It makes you sound like you have no clue what you are talking about
Maybe you should look up the definition of an engine instead of thinking your smarter than everyone, hence: "a machine that uses energy to produce movement"
Shimming, me just remember shimming my gel blaster gear 🤣 and motor.. (0.1 to 1 mm shim washer) thanks for info..
Great video, looking forward to the series.
you all prolly dont give a shit but does someone know of a method to get back into an instagram account??
I somehow forgot my account password. I love any tricks you can offer me!
@Ty Reign instablaster :)
@Hugh Ace I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Hugh Ace it worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account!
@Ty Reign you are welcome =)
Good Stuff. Thanks for the good info.
Love the information!! Thanks man!
glad you enjoy it! and thanks for watching my videos too.
FYI an engine is internal combustion motor is electric
Have you ever changed a starter Engine?
Yes I know your correct, its an electrical motor. Sorry for saying engine about 100 times.
@@ChrisPatrickRC it really doesn’t matter. These guys are so full of themselves and their semantics, when technically they are entirely incorrect. They’re just used to hearing the word, “engine,” associated with internal combustion, and, “motor,” associated with electricity - yet, they haven’t looked into the actual meanings of the words. It’s just not that big of a deal. Especially when one considers that you’re taking the time to share what you’ve learned by doing, while they create only criticism. But you, sir, handle it with dignity and grace! Unlike myself 😂
@@soundmindtv2911 i get what your saying and I agree, there are not many videos out there that properly explain these things for normal people to understand, meanwhile if I did or didn't use the correct terminology, the information in my opinion was still extremely useful which is why the video remains up. And thanks for the words of encouragement because I still continue to look for new topics to cover and I still continue to race rc cars.
Hope all is well thank you for your time.
You can get a cheap dial indicator and measure end play and then do a bit of math to adjust actual end play. A cheap digital caliper would tell you which combo to use. Aluminum is metal by the way just not magnetic but over all I like your video. Not being critical just you'll get less complains on your future video's
Yes, I agree just didn't have one and didn't think that when I made this video series originally. I know own one but its for my 3d printer.
As for the magnetic part. The screws are usually steel not aluminum , so they are magnetic and affect the magnetic field. If my memory is correct, I upgraded those to the aluminum screw kit...
I think anyway. Either way thanks for the input!
It was a pretty good video. You said it was a dirty motor so why wouldn't you show how to clean it? Especially with the bearings. On the topic of the bearings you didn't say anything about upgrading bearings to a better grade and or being ceramic. keep up the videos.
honestly didnt even think about that as a video, and i just might do this topic for a idea. i personally havnt tried ceramic bearings , so it gives me an excuse to try them and do a video on it.....
The case has no magnet …. ;)
Wish there was a way to actually tune the powerband like a real car...would love to have the r
Torque and powerband meet at a certain throttle position...they have a punch setting so idk why this isn't a thing or is it?
You can buy different rotors and tune your motor to give you a desired affect of rpm or torque at a certain point. So it "can" be done
Dude I changed the powerband of my car. Or atleas the way the car accelerated with the top speed. At first I had the motor in at stock timing (around 30degrees) and an additional 15ish degrees of electronic timing. The car was fun and responsive and got to top speed very quickly and topped out. I took out the motor, lowered timing to 14degrees mechanical, changed the esc to a boost, and turbo timing esc. Added 24 degrees of boost w/8 degrees of turbo. Completely transformed the car. Same 3s battery throughout. Haven’t changed the rotor but plan on seeing what that’s all about when I get bored of how great the car is now🤣. Just experiment bro. Btw I don’t use any esc’s lower than 120a in any of my cars. Even my 12th scale
Hope your wife gets well soon.
And thanks Bob, she's starting to get a bit better hopefully she's about over. We've been in quarantine since Sunday. So 7 full days now. It sucks.
In Ohio too where do you race at
The ohio rc factory in Jeffersonville Ohio. Probably the largest indoor offraod track on the east coast.
oh my friend did you just take a motor apart an put 2 drops of oil
indeed i did. and still do
**Motor
Yes, motor
@@ChrisPatrickRC lol, this is like interactive TV! I'm still watching this video as you replied.
@@D20MCK its all good. Yes I know I use the wrong verbage but its gets the point across
@@ChrisPatrickRC good info in there, didn't cross my mind about using alloy screws.
3 parts kerosene 1 part 30 weight no resin build up
what is this?
Its the oil I used for any hi-speed parts. Sounds funny but it really works.
Tune a motor*.. HEHE
lol engine
Yup... electric engine
doing 3, 4 different videos for more clicks isn't worth the time...
Its not , its just what I had time to record and easier to edit shorter videos. When I get larger files my editing software gets really slow, sorry.
@@ChrisPatrickRC Oh ok gotcha that makes sense.. 👍🏼
@@ConditionZero76 sometimes things have reasons, im trying to learn to edit better, and with these being my older videos too. but ether way, hope you enjoyed the content! and thanks for the support.